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Middle East 2022
  • Nancy and Doug Trips

Middle East 2022

Tour of the Holy Sites and ancient monuments of Turkey, Jordan, Israel, Palestine and Egypt Read more
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  • Trip start
    October 3, 2022
    Nancy and Doug TripsMiddle East 2022Traveler

    Arrival in Istanbul

    October 3, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Nancy dropped me at Kelowna airport, flight to Vancouver then from Vancouver to Frankfurt were on time. Dozed off on the red-eye, probably got 3 hours in. Connection to the Turkish flight to Istanbul was a bit late, but arrived close to on time about 14:30 local time. On the approach to IST, I noticed just how many huge apartment complexes there were so far from town. City is 18 million. The airport is huge. The longest taxi from runway to the gate I have ever had. Then after getting off the plane, I measured the distance from my gate to passport control at 1.5 km.

    Took a while to get out of the airport. Did not like the service fee proposed at the ATM, so located and lined up for a Change office and paid 86CAD for 1000TL. Wanted to buy a SIM card, but the service was slow and the crowd large. So went to the bus and there was an overflow, so this was going to be too much for me to wait for the next bus that still required a 20 minute walk at the other end. So I bailed and took a cab on the meter. Cost 300TL instead of the 70 for the bus and got dropped off at the hotel door.

    Hotel Gritti Pera located in a very lively side street off the Istiklal main drag. Basically got in at 6 and went to look for a Turkcell phone store where I heard you could get a SIM card for 13CAD but without a cell phone to navigate with, couldn't find the one I wanted . So went back to the hotel where I had noted they sold them at the front desk for $20USD. Twice the data of the other one though. Then a short wait for the pick up for the cruise.

    How exciting, my trip has officially begun!    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsMiddle East 2022Traveler
    1Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge
    Dolmabahçe PalaceOrtaköy MosqueRumeli Fortress15th of July Martyrs BridgeKuleli Military High School MuseumGalata Tower

    Bosphorus Dinner Cruise

    October 3, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    So this activity came with the Istanbul e-Pass I bought for all the museum admissions and guided tours, so decided it would be a good thing to do the first night in town. A van was booked to pick me up at the hotel at 7:30 -- they were within 5 minutes, and we made a couple of other stops before driving through the very heavy traffic down to the waterfront. Large 3 decker boat, but the dining was just on the first. Took a while to get everyone loaded so we left about 9. There was also a show of a variety of Turkish dancing. I was on a window seat with a great view of the coast, but not so good of the show. The dancers seemed very energetic though! Dinner was as to be expected. The 'meze' appetizers are quite tasty. Had grilled meat balls for the main.

    After dinner, I went to the upper deck and did the second half of the cruise outside. Not many others on deck due to the cool evening -- good time to have Canadian genetics. Very pretty views of the city from the water. Many grand buildings such as palaces and mosques as well as areas of fancy waterfront villas.

    It was a couple minutes to midnight when I got to the hotel, so this will get me on Turkish time zone all at once!    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsMiddle East 2022Traveler
    The Galata Tower
    BeyogluGalata TowerBereketzade CesmesiDown to the bridge

    Galata Tower

    October 4, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Leaving the hotel is a nice neighbourhood before arriving at the Galata Tower just a few blocks from my hotel on my way to the bridge below. This tower was built to replace the Great Tower (Megalos Pyrgos) a Byzantine tower which was destroyed in 1204 and no longer stands. The Galata Tower or Tower of Christ was constructed in 1348 by the Genoese during the Middle Ages. The tower was built to guard the entrance to the Golden Horn. Over the years the tower underwent renovations several times and during the Ottoman Era the tower was used to look out for fires. At the time of its construction the tower was the tallest structure in the city; together with its height it is located on an elevated piece of land which gives the illusion that it is even taller than it actually is. It is built out of 3.8m thick stone walls and is 67m tall and 16m in diameter.

    It was too early, so I did not go up although a ticket came with my pass, just never was near it at the right times. From the observation deck circling the turret you can get brilliant views across the city. On the same level there is a restaurant and on the upper floor there is a night club where you can see a show featuring traditional Turkish music and dance.

    The Bereketzade fountain just beside the tower was rebuilt in 1732 on the site of an older fountain that was beside the oldest mosque in Galata., Then leaving the tower it is an incredibly steep old lane down to the waterfront.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsMiddle East 2022Traveler
    Galata Bridge

    Galata Bridge

    October 4, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Arriving down the hill across some very busy streets is the Galata Bridge across the Golden Horn, a natural inlet in the Bosphorus River where it meets the Sea of Marmara. The Golden Horn divides “Old Istanbul” (former Byzantium) and the new city to the north. In 1502 Sultan Bayezid II commissioned Leonardo da Vinci to design a bridge to be built at the location of today’s Galata Bridge. However, the Sultan did not approve of da Vinci’s single span design and the bridge was never built. Michelangelo was also invited to design a bridge for the Golden Horn but he declined the project. In 1845 Valide Sultan had the first Galata Bridge built at the mouth of the Golden Horn and called it New Bridge (Cisr-i Atik). This wooden bridge was replaced in 1863 by another wooden bridge. A third bridge on this spot was completed in 1875 and used until 1912 when it was moved upstream to replace the New Bridge. A floating bridge was constructed in 1912 by a German firm but it was damaged by fire in 1992 and taken upstream to make way for the current bridge which was completed in 1994.

    There is a level below the traffic level with some touristy restaurants and stores. From the bridge you can look west to Europe and east across the Bosphorus to Asia and there is a good view of the mosque.

    After you cross the bridge and a large plaza you immediately enter a series of street markets, which are actually the back of the exterior of the Spice Market, on your way up a long hill to the mosque.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsMiddle East 2022Traveler
    Tomb of Sultan SuleymanRoyal Tomb

    Suleymaniye Mosque

    October 4, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Suleiman Mosque is the city’s largest mosque; it took 7 years to build and was completed in 1557. The mosque was part of a complex which includes a hospital, soup kitchen, hospice, Turkish bath, stores, madrasa religious schools, caravanserai and the tombs of Suleyman and his wife Roxelana as well as other royals. Suleiman’s tomb was designed to resemble the Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem. The mosque is crowned by four minarets, two of them reaching 74 meters and the other two 56 meters. The four minarets symbolize that Suleyman was the fourth Sultan after the conquest of Constantinople (the 10th Sultan of the Ottoman Empire). The mosque has an inner and outer courtyard; the inner courtyard can be used by worshipers and has domes to protect them from the sun or rain and an ablution fountain.

    Inside the mosque floors are covered by thick carpets and huge chandeliers provide the light together with natural light from the 183 windows. The central dome has a diameter of 27 meters and is 53 meters above the floor. The mosque suffered fire damage in 1660 and was restored giving it a more Baroque appearance. The mosque is known for its brilliant acoustics.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsMiddle East 2022Traveler
    Prayer Square Azan Pavilion

    Spice Bazaar

    October 4, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    So, leaving the mosque, it was thankfully downhill through more narrow streets. One thing you see a lot is deliveries are made by men pulling carts. Istanbul is also afflicted with the scooter problem, and it is even more perplexing here with the crowds and the cobblestones and the hordes of motor scooters.

    The next stop is the Spice or Egyptian Market. It was really a neat place.

    Misir Carsisi or the Egyptian Market is one of Istanbul’s largest bazaars. It is believed that the market got its name because it was built using funds from the Ottoman division in Egypt in 1660 and completed in 1664. The profits from the market would be used for the upkeep of the mosque but today the market is a separate entity. Although the name suggests that all the stores in the market sell spices more and more bazaar businesses are selling a variety of goods like cheese, nuts, fruit, sweets, souvenirs and other items. Today there are approximately 85 stores selling spices and other goods. The covered market building is surrounded by small lanes which also have many stores selling interesting goods. On the western side of the market are outdoor stalls selling fresh produce including coffee.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsMiddle East 2022Traveler

    Rustem Pasa Mosque

    October 4, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    I had some trouble locating this mosque at first as it is just built right into the surrounding markets, but it was worth the extra few minutes as it is just filled with stunning tile work.

    The mosque was originally constructed in 1560 and was the first project of Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan. The interior is decorated with intricate Iznik faience tiles. These tiles are some of the best produced and feature bright red which was one of the rarest and most complex colors to produce in Iznik tiles. The tiles cover the walls, mihrab and mimbar. The mosque has a single minaret and central dome. The mosque doors are carved and feature inlaid wood and gilding.

    The mosque is named after Rustem Pasha (1500-1561) who was the son-in-law of Sultan Suleyman the Magnificent and has gone down in history as the man who plotted with Suleyman’s wife Roxelana to denounce Prince Mustafa and put Roxelana’s son, Prince Selim on the throne. Prince Selim the Sot’s reign signified the beginning of the end of the Ottoman Empire. When Rustem had his mosque built he had to be careful not to rival the beauty and size of the Sultan’s mosques. So, he chose to build it in the marketplace and focus on the mosque’s interior decoration with the tiles rather than exterior grandeur. I'll say it worked!    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsMiddle East 2022Traveler
    Gold EmbroideryHuge rug

    Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art

    October 4, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    This museum is housed in the former 16th century palace of Suleiman the Magnificent’s Grand Vizier, Ibrahim Pasha. The museum holds approximately 40,000 pieces spanning from the 7th to 19th century. The items are displayed in sections including texts and manuscripts; carpets and rugs; mining; glass and ceramics; wood work; ethnography; coins and stamps and stone work.

    Among the highlights of the museum is a magnificent collection of 1,700 carpets which were amazing. Other outstanding pieces include illustrated Qurans from all the ruling Islamic states from the 7th century to the 20th century. Some of these are really gorgeous. There is also an illustration of how Turkish architecture changed from tents to 19th century palaces.

    Calligraphy is a serious form of Islamic art and there was an interesting display on how it developed.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsMiddle East 2022Traveler

    Blue Mosque

    October 4, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Right across the park from the Arts Museum is the "Blue Mosque" The Sultan Ahmed Mosque or Sultanahmet Camii is nicknamed the Blue Mosque because of the beautiful blue tiles which adorn the interior walls. Unfortunately, a renovation project has most of the ceiling obscured by scaffolding, but it is easy to see why this is one of the most popular tourist sites. There was a short line to get in, and the construction meant there was not a lot of room to wander about. The mosque is in active use, so there are closed off areas for prayer as well.

    The mosque was constructed between 1609 and 1616 during the reign of Ahmed I who is also buried here. The mosque complex includes the Sultan’s mausoleum, a hospice and a madrasa. The mosque was the first of two in Turkey to have six minarets; the number of minarets on the Ka’aba in Mecca. For this reason he added a seventh minaret so as not to rival Mecca.

    The interior of the mosque is lined with over 20,000 handmade ceramic tiles. On the upper levels of the mosque there are 200 intricate stained glass windows; chandeliers hang above the prayer hall; lamps are adorned with gems and gold and Arabic calligraphy decorate key positions. The floors are covered with carpets which are regularly replaced. The mihrab features carved and sculptured marble with intricate decoration. The beautiful mosque is topped by a large central dome and smaller semi-domes.

    In the plaza are food carts you see all over town with roasted chestnuts and roasted corn and they really sell this stuff. One guy is husking the corn non-stop while another roasts.

    Started walking home but after 20 minutes I realized it was going to kill me to do the full hour walk especially the last bit up the hill. So I flagged down a cab, which took a few tries and got a driver who must have seen the desperation in my eyes as he proposed a fixed price of 200TL (the next morning the return trip was 70TL). The way I felt it was well worth it. Traffic was typically horrible, so it took a half hour.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsMiddle East 2022Traveler
    Mix of brand name stores and snack shopsCoffee break in alley off Istiklal

    Istiklal Street

    October 4, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Walked the main drag. Super crowded and super tired so did not make it up to Taksim Square, but I had seen it from the shuttle van last night on the way to the cruise. Decided to turn back, grabbing a Turkish coffee for 23TL on the way.Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsMiddle East 2022Traveler
    Hagia Sophia
    A very long line to enter even with ticketsJustinian, Virgin Mary and Constantine

    Hagia Sophia

    October 5, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    The Hagia Sophia is one of those 'bucket list' sights. I joined up with a booked tour guide and after a long line, we had a short tour of what was the largest church in the world for many years.

    The Church of the Holy Wisdom (Hagia Sophia) began as a Byzantine church, then it became a mosque during the Ottoman Era and today is a museum and is an architectural wonder. The structure today dates back to 532-537 when its construction was over seen by Justinian I. Although the church suffered from earthquakes and an attack by the Crusaders in 1204 it has retained its historic structure and decoration. From 1453 for 500 years the church became the main mosque of Istanbul during the Ottoman Era.

    The church features rich mosaics and a grand central dome with a diameter of 31 meters. The circular dome rests on a rectangular base all richly decorated with murals, Arabic calligraphy and mosaics. All the interior surfaces are polychrome marble in green, purple and white with gold mosaics. The marble mihrab has survived from the Ottoman Era.

    There are many magnificent mosaics., and like lots of church art, the rulers of the time incorporated themselves into the religious scenes.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsMiddle East 2022Traveler

    Coffee break

    October 5, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    On the way from the Hagia Sophia to the Archaeological Museum was a shop called Han Baclava. Didn't have a lunch break built in to the day plan, so stopped. This was the fanciest Turkish coffee service yet, and a tiny piece of Turkish baclava. Not the cheapest coffee at 28 TL for coffee and 45TL for the treat.
    The other bite I had today was a bagel-thing they sell from carts all over town for 5 TL, or 10TL with either cream cheese or Nutella.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsMiddle East 2022Traveler
    Imperial Hall with the Throne of the Sultan
    The Middle GatePalace Model -- Main entrance on leftSecond courtyardGate of Felicity to the Third CourtyardEntrance to the kitchensThe kitchensFountain Hall of the HaremCourtyard of the ConcubinesImperial HallThe fountain of the Privy Chamber of Murat IIICourtyard of the FavouritesTwin Kiosk

    Topkapi Palace

    October 5, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Close to the Hagia Sophia is the Topkapi Palace. I was actually planning to go to the Archaeology Museum first and passed by the Topkapi Palace and noted a huge line to enter. When I got to the Museum, there was a line there too for the tickets but since I already had a pass I just needed to go through security and in, A group of people went to to the right through a security screening which I decided to use and suddenly I was in the Topkapi Palace via an unpublished side entrance!

    In 1453 Mehmed the Conqueror took Istanbul and in 1460 began the construction of his grand palace complex which was completed in 1478.The complex covers 70 hectares, over three times the size of the Forbidden City in Beijing, which it reminded me of with its series of courtyards one after the other, each leading to a more 'senior' level of authority. The palace was the administrative, cultural and educational center of the Empire as well as being the royal residence for almost 400 years.

    The Harem, which simply means the residence of the royal family, not the more salacious meaning, had more than 400 rooms, many quite pretty, and many different sections. This was the most interesting part of the palace and required a separate ticket.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsMiddle East 2022Traveler
    Market StreetShopping in EminouPeaceful Behind the Hagia Sophia

    Istanbul Wrap-Up

    October 6, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Left my hotel after 9 and got to the airport stupidly early for a 1325 flight but there was nothing else to do and I AM an airport geek! IST airport is impressive. Only opened 2019 and is Europe's largest and busiest airport. Top notch spaces, services and facilities. They even have a dedicated lounge for 'Special People ' (Down Syndrome, dementia etc listed) to provide a calm space and dedicated staff to assist.

    Istanbul is a fascinating place. All too short a visit, although I saw the main historic sights. It is quite a clean city. I don't know if Turks just don't litter, or if there is very efficient cleaning. You get the flavour of the 'orient' with the markets and the shops along the streets, but it is still a European city (not technically part of the Middle East) and the infrastructure is all up to date and maintenance levels are high. And so much history from the Roman Empire through the Byzantine era, then the Ottoman Empire, it was a leading city for some 1500 years.

    Day 1 Tuesday, Oct 3rd: Arrival day, so really travel time. But did get the one event in. Put in 8,028 steps , mostly in airports. It was partly cloudy on arrival and about 20.

    Day 2, Oct 4th: Long day today and saw a huge amount. Really experienced the hustle and bustle of this place and all its chaos. Was mainly a walking tour of the south bank and overdid the walking with 20,772 steps. The weird thing about Istanbul is that it is very hilly and they built all their main buildings at the tops of hills! Mostly cloudy and it wasn't too hot.

    Day 3: Oct 5th. Got up and was worried I couldn't do anything. After I got home last night I fell asleep for an hour then couldn't get back to sleep and was also really sore this morning. However, got a shower and breakfast and took a cab to the first stop to save my muscles for important stuff! Weather was a bit iffy too. Had really heavy rains overnight and it was cool cloudy and we had intermittent light rain. For me, though, better than 30 degrees! Ended up doing one museum less than planned but also managed to walk all the way back today. Today was basically the #1 and #2 sites on the tourist trail. Easy day of 12,350 steps in cool weather..    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsMiddle East 2022Traveler

    Cappadocia Arrival Neveshir Airport

    October 6, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Quick easy flight. Coming in to Neveshir you would be forgiven if you thought you were landing in Calgary. Farms, then grass rangeland and barren foothills with mountains in the distance.

    Hotel had a paid pickup service (200TL to the driver). Driver waiting outside and we filled the 12 pax van and hit the road 30 minutes after landing. Be faster if everyone just used carry on ! 😀

    Trip supposed to be 40 minutes but depends on what order the hotel drop offs are.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsMiddle East 2022Traveler

    Caravanserai Hotel

    October 6, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    This is one the hotels carved into the rock face of the valley. Nice little place, just a few maintenance issues coming out of two years of the pandemic shutdown.

    After the sunset view, just found a Take out place and brought home a decent hamburger and a bottle of red and enjoyed the hotel's rooftop terrace.Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsMiddle East 2022Traveler

    Goreme View

    October 6, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Just a short walk up to the Sunset View Point.
    There is a direct path from town that must use private property so the enterprising owner set up a ticket booth to collect 5TL to use the trail!
    Also a cafe and wine booths etc at the top if you want to have some refreshments while enjoying the view.

     Atmospheric conditions did not produce spectacular sunset but a pleasant view over town and valley.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsMiddle East 2022Traveler

    Sunrise

    October 7, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    Well -- sunrise "time" -- it is very grey.

    Got out of bed about 6 and opened the curtains to see the day and there is a balloon hovering outside! They really come right down into the town.

    Went up to the terrace and got a great view of a sky filled with balloons. The weather was not the best with low cloud and you could see the balloons go into the clouds if the went up so that may be a reason why they were so close in.

    I have been told around 150 balloons operate from here and just looking in one direction I could count 40+ so that is believable.

    Looks like quite an experience to float over this incredible landscape.

    The lighting is poor, so these photos don't do it justice at all!    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsMiddle East 2022Traveler

    Goreme Panorama

    October 7, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Booked a tour for today. Chose a 'Green' tour that goes to the south. Will have about seven stops on this day. Pickup by one of the ubiquitous white 15 pax Mercedes vans and fought our way out of the traffic jams.

    First stop on the ridge on the west side of the valley opposite the Sunset Point.
    Again a very good perspective and close view of the fairy chimneys. These are made of the rock tufa that is formed underwater. A lot of ancient Rome was built of tufa. If they still have the black 'caps' these are volcanic basalt that was laid on top. In the valleys, water then eroded them and formed the towers.

    I have seen the 'evil eye' talisman a lot around here. It is a common superstition all around the Mediterranean but this blue jewelry is super common in Turkey.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsMiddle East 2022Traveler

    Pigeon Valley

    October 7, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Another stop at a viewpoint. The pigeons refer to the people keeping pigeons in the little bird houses carved in the rock. This was done nor only in this valley but all over the region. They collected the bird droppings for fertilizer and also used the birds as courier pigeons.

    Also visible from here is Uchisar Castle which is actually a natural rock formation used as cave dwellings as is the case all around this region, and particularly as a defense position going back to Byzantine times.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsMiddle East 2022Traveler

    KEM Art Center

    October 7, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    The obligatory stop at a shop. This one was a jewelry place. Everything from gold to silver and diamonds, rubies, onyx and amethyst. But the unique offerings here are a semi precious stone called Zultanite found only in Turkey and the local Turquoise which is bluer. Zultanite is only mined in the mountains of Turkey and it changes colour depending on the colour of the light it's in - green outdoor, pink under incandescent light etc.

    The items sold here are pretty and the styles is delicate and artistic.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsMiddle East 2022Traveler

    Selime

    October 7, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Selime Cathedral is the largest monastery in the region. Also known as the Selime Monastery or Selime Castle, the cathedral is a mix of natural and human-made structures. There is evidence of various civilaztions going back to the Hittites and Persians. The monastery was constructed in the 8th century by Christians as a monastery with church, but then changed in purpose as a caravanserai in the 12th century.

    The monastery has a large church, which is divided into three sections by two rows of rock columns. There were an estimated 2,000 people who would have lived within the complex. The monastery contains quarters for monks, two halls, a stable for mules, and a large kitchen. The kitchen was built within the cathedral and lamps were used as a lighting source    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsMiddle East 2022Traveler

    Lunch at Belisirma Restaurant

    October 7, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    This is a lovely setting on the river. Lunch served to the group at the tables then tea served in little pavilions by the water. Beef casserole (adequate - what can you expect on a packaged tour meal?) with fresh pomegranate juice.Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsMiddle East 2022Traveler

    Ihlara river and St. George Cathedral

    October 7, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    From the restaurant we took a short walk up the river. Sometimes the green tour includes the full 4km walk but we were actually running late. Pleasant path led to a 150 step staircase to a necropolis.

    The Kirkdalmati Kilises or St. George Cathedral carved out of the rocks. Used as a burial grotto by early Christians.    Read more

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