Middle East 2022

October - November 2022
Tour of the Holy Sites and ancient monuments of Turkey, Jordan, Israel, Palestine and Egypt
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  • 32days
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  • 57.1kkilometers
  • 53.1kkilometers
  • Day 1

    Arrival in Istanbul

    October 3, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Nancy dropped me at Kelowna airport, flight to Vancouver then from Vancouver to Frankfurt were on time. Dozed off on the red-eye, probably got 3 hours in. Connection to the Turkish flight to Istanbul was a bit late, but arrived close to on time about 14:30 local time. On the approach to IST, I noticed just how many huge apartment complexes there were so far from town. City is 18 million. The airport is huge. The longest taxi from runway to the gate I have ever had. Then after getting off the plane, I measured the distance from my gate to passport control at 1.5 km.

    Took a while to get out of the airport. Did not like the service fee proposed at the ATM, so located and lined up for a Change office and paid 86CAD for 1000TL. Wanted to buy a SIM card, but the service was slow and the crowd large. So went to the bus and there was an overflow, so this was going to be too much for me to wait for the next bus that still required a 20 minute walk at the other end. So I bailed and took a cab on the meter. Cost 300TL instead of the 70 for the bus and got dropped off at the hotel door.

    Hotel Gritti Pera located in a very lively side street off the Istiklal main drag. Basically got in at 6 and went to look for a Turkcell phone store where I heard you could get a SIM card for 13CAD but without a cell phone to navigate with, couldn't find the one I wanted . So went back to the hotel where I had noted they sold them at the front desk for $20USD. Twice the data of the other one though. Then a short wait for the pick up for the cruise.

    How exciting, my trip has officially begun!
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  • Day 1

    Bosphorus Dinner Cruise

    October 3, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    So this activity came with the Istanbul e-Pass I bought for all the museum admissions and guided tours, so decided it would be a good thing to do the first night in town. A van was booked to pick me up at the hotel at 7:30 -- they were within 5 minutes, and we made a couple of other stops before driving through the very heavy traffic down to the waterfront. Large 3 decker boat, but the dining was just on the first. Took a while to get everyone loaded so we left about 9. There was also a show of a variety of Turkish dancing. I was on a window seat with a great view of the coast, but not so good of the show. The dancers seemed very energetic though! Dinner was as to be expected. The 'meze' appetizers are quite tasty. Had grilled meat balls for the main.

    After dinner, I went to the upper deck and did the second half of the cruise outside. Not many others on deck due to the cool evening -- good time to have Canadian genetics. Very pretty views of the city from the water. Many grand buildings such as palaces and mosques as well as areas of fancy waterfront villas.

    It was a couple minutes to midnight when I got to the hotel, so this will get me on Turkish time zone all at once!
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  • Day 2

    Galata Tower

    October 4, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Leaving the hotel is a nice neighbourhood before arriving at the Galata Tower just a few blocks from my hotel on my way to the bridge below. This tower was built to replace the Great Tower (Megalos Pyrgos) a Byzantine tower which was destroyed in 1204 and no longer stands. The Galata Tower or Tower of Christ was constructed in 1348 by the Genoese during the Middle Ages. The tower was built to guard the entrance to the Golden Horn. Over the years the tower underwent renovations several times and during the Ottoman Era the tower was used to look out for fires. At the time of its construction the tower was the tallest structure in the city; together with its height it is located on an elevated piece of land which gives the illusion that it is even taller than it actually is. It is built out of 3.8m thick stone walls and is 67m tall and 16m in diameter.

    It was too early, so I did not go up although a ticket came with my pass, just never was near it at the right times. From the observation deck circling the turret you can get brilliant views across the city. On the same level there is a restaurant and on the upper floor there is a night club where you can see a show featuring traditional Turkish music and dance.

    The Bereketzade fountain just beside the tower was rebuilt in 1732 on the site of an older fountain that was beside the oldest mosque in Galata., Then leaving the tower it is an incredibly steep old lane down to the waterfront.
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  • Day 2

    Galata Bridge

    October 4, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Arriving down the hill across some very busy streets is the Galata Bridge across the Golden Horn, a natural inlet in the Bosphorus River where it meets the Sea of Marmara. The Golden Horn divides “Old Istanbul” (former Byzantium) and the new city to the north. In 1502 Sultan Bayezid II commissioned Leonardo da Vinci to design a bridge to be built at the location of today’s Galata Bridge. However, the Sultan did not approve of da Vinci’s single span design and the bridge was never built. Michelangelo was also invited to design a bridge for the Golden Horn but he declined the project. In 1845 Valide Sultan had the first Galata Bridge built at the mouth of the Golden Horn and called it New Bridge (Cisr-i Atik). This wooden bridge was replaced in 1863 by another wooden bridge. A third bridge on this spot was completed in 1875 and used until 1912 when it was moved upstream to replace the New Bridge. A floating bridge was constructed in 1912 by a German firm but it was damaged by fire in 1992 and taken upstream to make way for the current bridge which was completed in 1994.

    There is a level below the traffic level with some touristy restaurants and stores. From the bridge you can look west to Europe and east across the Bosphorus to Asia and there is a good view of the mosque.

    After you cross the bridge and a large plaza you immediately enter a series of street markets, which are actually the back of the exterior of the Spice Market, on your way up a long hill to the mosque.
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  • Day 2

    Suleymaniye Mosque

    October 4, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Suleiman Mosque is the city’s largest mosque; it took 7 years to build and was completed in 1557. The mosque was part of a complex which includes a hospital, soup kitchen, hospice, Turkish bath, stores, madrasa religious schools, caravanserai and the tombs of Suleyman and his wife Roxelana as well as other royals. Suleiman’s tomb was designed to resemble the Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem. The mosque is crowned by four minarets, two of them reaching 74 meters and the other two 56 meters. The four minarets symbolize that Suleyman was the fourth Sultan after the conquest of Constantinople (the 10th Sultan of the Ottoman Empire). The mosque has an inner and outer courtyard; the inner courtyard can be used by worshipers and has domes to protect them from the sun or rain and an ablution fountain.

    Inside the mosque floors are covered by thick carpets and huge chandeliers provide the light together with natural light from the 183 windows. The central dome has a diameter of 27 meters and is 53 meters above the floor. The mosque suffered fire damage in 1660 and was restored giving it a more Baroque appearance. The mosque is known for its brilliant acoustics.
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  • Day 2

    Spice Bazaar

    October 4, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    So, leaving the mosque, it was thankfully downhill through more narrow streets. One thing you see a lot is deliveries are made by men pulling carts. Istanbul is also afflicted with the scooter problem, and it is even more perplexing here with the crowds and the cobblestones and the hordes of motor scooters.

    The next stop is the Spice or Egyptian Market. It was really a neat place.

    Misir Carsisi or the Egyptian Market is one of Istanbul’s largest bazaars. It is believed that the market got its name because it was built using funds from the Ottoman division in Egypt in 1660 and completed in 1664. The profits from the market would be used for the upkeep of the mosque but today the market is a separate entity. Although the name suggests that all the stores in the market sell spices more and more bazaar businesses are selling a variety of goods like cheese, nuts, fruit, sweets, souvenirs and other items. Today there are approximately 85 stores selling spices and other goods. The covered market building is surrounded by small lanes which also have many stores selling interesting goods. On the western side of the market are outdoor stalls selling fresh produce including coffee.
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  • Day 2

    Rustem Pasa Mosque

    October 4, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    I had some trouble locating this mosque at first as it is just built right into the surrounding markets, but it was worth the extra few minutes as it is just filled with stunning tile work.

    The mosque was originally constructed in 1560 and was the first project of Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan. The interior is decorated with intricate Iznik faience tiles. These tiles are some of the best produced and feature bright red which was one of the rarest and most complex colors to produce in Iznik tiles. The tiles cover the walls, mihrab and mimbar. The mosque has a single minaret and central dome. The mosque doors are carved and feature inlaid wood and gilding.

    The mosque is named after Rustem Pasha (1500-1561) who was the son-in-law of Sultan Suleyman the Magnificent and has gone down in history as the man who plotted with Suleyman’s wife Roxelana to denounce Prince Mustafa and put Roxelana’s son, Prince Selim on the throne. Prince Selim the Sot’s reign signified the beginning of the end of the Ottoman Empire. When Rustem had his mosque built he had to be careful not to rival the beauty and size of the Sultan’s mosques. So, he chose to build it in the marketplace and focus on the mosque’s interior decoration with the tiles rather than exterior grandeur. I'll say it worked!
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  • Day 2

    Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art

    October 4, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    This museum is housed in the former 16th century palace of Suleiman the Magnificent’s Grand Vizier, Ibrahim Pasha. The museum holds approximately 40,000 pieces spanning from the 7th to 19th century. The items are displayed in sections including texts and manuscripts; carpets and rugs; mining; glass and ceramics; wood work; ethnography; coins and stamps and stone work.

    Among the highlights of the museum is a magnificent collection of 1,700 carpets which were amazing. Other outstanding pieces include illustrated Qurans from all the ruling Islamic states from the 7th century to the 20th century. Some of these are really gorgeous. There is also an illustration of how Turkish architecture changed from tents to 19th century palaces.

    Calligraphy is a serious form of Islamic art and there was an interesting display on how it developed.
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  • Day 2

    Blue Mosque

    October 4, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Right across the park from the Arts Museum is the "Blue Mosque" The Sultan Ahmed Mosque or Sultanahmet Camii is nicknamed the Blue Mosque because of the beautiful blue tiles which adorn the interior walls. Unfortunately, a renovation project has most of the ceiling obscured by scaffolding, but it is easy to see why this is one of the most popular tourist sites. There was a short line to get in, and the construction meant there was not a lot of room to wander about. The mosque is in active use, so there are closed off areas for prayer as well.

    The mosque was constructed between 1609 and 1616 during the reign of Ahmed I who is also buried here. The mosque complex includes the Sultan’s mausoleum, a hospice and a madrasa. The mosque was the first of two in Turkey to have six minarets; the number of minarets on the Ka’aba in Mecca. For this reason he added a seventh minaret so as not to rival Mecca.

    The interior of the mosque is lined with over 20,000 handmade ceramic tiles. On the upper levels of the mosque there are 200 intricate stained glass windows; chandeliers hang above the prayer hall; lamps are adorned with gems and gold and Arabic calligraphy decorate key positions. The floors are covered with carpets which are regularly replaced. The mihrab features carved and sculptured marble with intricate decoration. The beautiful mosque is topped by a large central dome and smaller semi-domes.

    In the plaza are food carts you see all over town with roasted chestnuts and roasted corn and they really sell this stuff. One guy is husking the corn non-stop while another roasts.

    Started walking home but after 20 minutes I realized it was going to kill me to do the full hour walk especially the last bit up the hill. So I flagged down a cab, which took a few tries and got a driver who must have seen the desperation in my eyes as he proposed a fixed price of 200TL (the next morning the return trip was 70TL). The way I felt it was well worth it. Traffic was typically horrible, so it took a half hour.
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