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  • Day 37

    St Paul Outside the Walls

    May 28, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Doug had a major double surprise delight. He noticed he had to change trains on the way back at "St. Paul" and checked the map to find that is the location of the last of the papal basilicas he was trying to get to. Then, a sublime moment when a twenty person choir started setting up for a concert of classical chorale works.

    Erected during the fourth century AD, the Basilica of St. Paul Outside the Walls (Basilica di San Paolo Fuori le Mura) is one of the four major basilicas of Rome, and the second largest after St. Peter's Basilica. It was founded on the burial ground of St. Paul after his execution in the first century. The entrance is via a lovely courtyard with a statue of the Saint and a golden mosaic over the façade. Inside are enormous marble columns and above that, a row of portraits of every Pope to the present. There are only four empty places left though, so legend is the Judgement Day will be when the fourth Pope from now dies. I wish them all long lives.

    Then, to my delight, a 45 minute concert of voices in this perfect setting. Goosebumps as a single soprano sings Pie Jesu and fills this massive space without microphones.
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