Nancy and Doug Trips
“The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page.”
Our lifelong travel bug has given us our most prized ‘possessions’ - the many memories from business and especially family trips.
 “Take only memories, leave only footprints.”
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🇨🇦British Columbia
  • Day 7 Overview

    2023年4月28日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Breakfast of pastries from our local. Lunch a good value kebap from the Istanbul and dinner in our place overlooking our view.

    Bus up to just below the castle then exploration of the city on foot for 14,262 steps.

    Good weather.
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  • Pantheon

    2023年4月28日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    This was our last stop of the day. Amazing domes, space and views! Interesting street scene on the way out with multiple tuk tuks carrying tourists back down the hill.

    It was the Church of Saint Engratia when it was built in 1682, but became the National Pantheon in 1916. Its large dome was only completed in 1966, making it the monument that took the longest to complete in all of Portugal. There’s even an expression in the country for something that takes forever -- “a job like St. Engratia.”It’s said that its construction took forever because it stands on the site of a previous church that was desecrated by a robbery in 1630. A Jew was blamed and executed, only to be exonerated later. Before dying, he said that a new church would never be completed, due to the conviction of an innocent man. He seemed to have prophesied, when the new church collapsed during the first months of construction in 1681 (the cause was the effect of a storm on a poorly-built foundation). It’s considered Portugal’s first baroque monument, but it lacks all the golden ornamentation and blue-and-white tile panels, so typical of Portuguese baroque. Instead, its interior is inspired by St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome, and made up of colored marble. Built on an octagonal floor plan centered on a Greek cross, it holds the tombs and cenotaphs of the country’s most important or famous cultural figures, like explorers, presidents, poets, and even Fado diva Amália Rodrigues.

    Admission included the climb to the large terrace by the dome, which offers a view over Alfama and the river.
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  • Praça do Comércio

    2023年4月28日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Praça do Comércio was built on the site where the old Royal Palace used to exist before it was destroyed by the earthquake of 1755. It was for decades Lisbon's main commercial site and crucial for its maritime trade.

    The southern end of the plaza is open and looks out onto the Tagus River. The other three sides have yellow-colored buildings in the Pombeline style with arches all along the façade. When the square was first built, the commercial ships would unload their goods directly onto this square, as it was considered the “door” to Lisbon.

    Located on the north side is the Rua Augusta Arch which goes to the boulevard Rua Augusta, the most prominent boulevard in Baixa. This triumphal arch was designed by the Portuguese architect Santos de Carvalho to celebrate the reconstruction of Lisbon after the 1755 earthquake. It was completed in 1873. On top of its several pillars are numerous statues that represent important Portuguese figures like Vasco da Gama and the Marquis of Pombal.

    The bronze equestrian statue is of Joseph I of Portugal (1750 – 1777) who was King of Portugal during the Great Earthquake.
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  • Lisboa Story Centre

    2023年4月28日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    A very easy museum that is a great overview and summary, very immersive. No need to read, more entertaining and the sit down surround sound and visuals of the earthquake of November 1 1755 is personally impactful enough that you leave definitely remembering the date that this horrific event had on the lives and subsequent re development of Lisbon. Later we would come across redevelopment site with photos that documented what lay behind late 18th century rebuild – wood reinforced concrete plaster and done wonders whether the Marques de Pombals’ testing of soldier stomping on such structures to make them more earthquake proof would stand up to another big one. I noted that the building next to ours had stabilization metal rods in it and given the Alfalma area is the only one that stood post earthquake one wonders how these medieval buildings would fare. The fact that they are there and have been renovated to the walls to include modern electricity and plumbing is a feat in itself! The only thing we are missing here is a reliable internet connection – very patchy and impacting on saving and getting on personal notes into Penguins!もっと詳しく

  • Castel Sao Jorge

    2023年4月28日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Travelling to St. Jorge was an experience in itself. Almost felt like a Disney ride where you walked through one street scene with all the sounds and smells and then another. There was a doggy day care or SPCA (only one dog), street musicians, a busy area of restaurants, vendors selling fruit, all modes of transport including multiple tuk tuks trying to get by the cobbled streets. Once in the castle (long wait if you don't pre purchase a skip the lines ticket) and then a very pleasant park at the top with beautiful views, shade trees and the odd peacock strutting along.

    Castelo de Sao Jorge is a military fortress with ancient origins. The site dates back to the Bronze age. Iron age. Phoenician, Greek and Carthaginian ruins were found in the area. Romans also built a fort here as Lisbon was a Roman capital. A small fortress was built by the Visigoths during the fifth century. It was modified and enlarged by the Moors in the mid-eleventh century and during the reign of Afonso I of Portugal (1109 – 1185), Its current structure dates to a large campaign of work from the time of D. Alfonso III (1248-1279)and transformed into a Royal Palace. The latest "reno" to the historical foundation being completed in October 2022. when they strengthened the structural stability of the tower, replaced lost materials, placed precision gauges for monitoring displacement, removed vegetation growth to control biodeterioration, surface cleaned, repointed joints, pinned and grouted cracks and gaps. Conclusion: A lot of care goes into preserving these old structures!
    As Renan the day before had told us, for any construction project in Portugal, an archaeologist is required to oversee the process. Doug noted that major employers here are anything tourist oriented, construction and....archaeologists!
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  • Arrival in Alfama Lisbon

    2023年4月27日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    We picked up our left luggage at the Coimbra bus station and walked about 20 minutes along a flat thankfully shaded wide sidewalk to the rail station. All sidewalks are cobbled, primarily in the white granite (which is slippery underfoot than basalt when wet). Often not smooth and chunks can be missing so suitcase wheels taking a beating. In fact, just as much a beating for auto supensions on the cobbled roads here as you see on SUV ads off terrain in N America! The rail trip was smooth from Coimbra into Lisboa Oriente and then a switch to Santa Apolonia which is the closest rail station to the Alfama District in Lisbon was delayed. Doug was preoccupied about getting there by 1830h to pick up our Lisboa Cards 3 day transit and sight pass (as I edit this on our way out of Lisbon, it was a good deal; all our transport in the last 3 days was covered and the only sight we had to pay for were the two at Sintra which is out of town). We got there in time only to be told it had been closed all day! This despite the sign on the booth that it was open until 1900h and closed Monday/Tuesday and it was Thursday! Things appear quite random so even though there is convenience with organizing things at home on computer the reality may be different. The next challenge was finding our accommodation which did not prove easy even with Google Maps. We were prepared for the climb through the cobbled streets and steps. This is the area of town that was not destroyed by the earthquake that pretty much flattened and burned Lisbon on Nov 1, 1755. Alfama was the Jewish quarter and the Jews got blamed and persecuted as their area of town was "saved". The roads are so narrow that even Tuk Tuk taxis can't get through parts of it. Our door was almost hidden and we walked right past, but a kind local helped us find it. Down steps and up steps to a very cute flat with windows over looking the city. A bit warm as it faces West but did cool off when the sun left and we opened up the windows. Nice cooking facilities so we plan to save some $ as Mr. bean counter says we are over budget, Today's activities (exclusive of prepaid) including 35 EU at a local little grocery coming to $120 CDN.もっと詳しく

  • Coimbra

    2023年4月27日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    We just had a couple of hours for a brief walk in the heat of the day of the old town of Coimbra in addition to having a sandwich at a nice sidewalk cafe near Santa Cruz. The quick impression is of a very pretty town with lots to do.

    Coimbra is the 4th largest city in Portugal with a population of 143,397,
    Coimbra was the Roman settlement of Aeminium, and was the first capital of Portugal (from 1131 to 1255) and many buildings still remain. During the late Middle Ages, with its decline as the political centre of Portugal, Coimbra began to evolve into a major cultural centre with the establishment of the first Portuguese university in 1290 in Lisbon and its relocation to Coimbra in 1308.

    Renan pointed out key sites as we walked within the walled part of the old town. You had to be of a certain status to live within the walls. Jews etc lived outside the walls. The main cathedral is Romanesque ie square in shape with small windows, glass and the Renaissance entry added later. You can see the castle elements where the knights could stand behind the points at the top and step out to shoot their arrows. Like all these towns, being built on a hill within the walls means building upward, generally six stories and the kitchens usually at the top in case fire destroyed things it was more limited to the one floor. That's a lot of steps to bring your groceries up! Fado is the local lamenting ballads of the region. The Church of St Cruz is where King Alfonso the first is entombed.
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  • Coimbra University

    2023年4月27日, ポルトガル ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Doug planned a detailed itinerary today starting with an Uber ride direct to the bus station with our luggage. Bus trip to Coimbra was 1.5 hrs, then put luggage into storage at the station, Uber to the university to meet our guide Renan Souza (RM Tours booked through Trip Advisor) at 10am for a two hour walking tour of the Coimbra University and the old town. Renan has his Bachelors and Masters in Portuguese History and is working on a PhD in Museology. To say he is passionate about his work is an understatement ; he knew so many dates and intertwined events off the top of his head. He came here to study from Brazil, he is the first in his family to go to university and his favourite place in Europe and where he'd like to work is the Borghese Gallery in Rome.

    Coimbra is between Porto and Lisbon and the site of a Roman town and the home of a public research university. First established in Lisbon in 1290, it went through a number of relocations until moving permanently to Coimbra in 1537. The university is among the oldest universities in continuous operation in the world, the oldest in Portugal. In 2013, UNESCO declared the university a World Heritage Site, noting its architecture, unique culture and traditions, and historical role.

    As mentioned many times by our guide, the reviled dictator Antonio de Salazar, was a prof here. He was the the PM of Portugal from 1932-1968 - authoritarian govt rule until the revolution of 1974. Mentioned numerous times was the Marques de Pombau who remains a controversial figure. On the one hand, this reformer who believed in rationality and science, ousted the power of the religious orders (Renan says the Dominican monks in particular were "bad") and brought reform, he was so paternalistic that he himself was exiled by "Maria the Mad" i.e. mad at him for his criticism of her father. Note "dungeon" where members of the university could be imprisoned up to six months (being allowed under university guard - to attend classes only) for any "misbehavior" ranging from not meeting the curfew time to political opinion. The organ is in the Royal Chapel as the impressive building on the square was once the Royal Palace of the King of Portugal.
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  • Day 5 Overview

    2023年4月26日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Explored the north side of the river again in the morning and walked over the bridge in the afternoon. A lot of walking up and down the steep hills, but Porto is quite compact. We covered a total of 14,974 steps or 10.1km.

    Dinner at Taberna d'Avo. Nancy had noted this cute restaurant very near our accommodation and it had good reviews. Run by a couple, no reservations, come 10 minutes early if you want a table when they open at 1900 hrs as there are only 10 tables. We were first in line and were quickly seated with the other three groups waiting and it quickly filled up. One waiter managed all the tables efficiently and we enjoyed our appetizers of Portuguese sausage, bread and sardine pate followed by cod fish cakes served with rice and beans. It looked like a soup but you strained the rice and beans out and it was very tasty, the food in Portugal is not overly salty despite the extensive use of "salt cod" which requires soaking for a day or two to desalt and reconstitute it. We plan to learn more about the history of cod at a specialty museum in Lisbon.
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  • Miradouro Vittoria

    2023年4月26日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    This viewpoint is just at the end of our street and Porto is reduced to postcard format at this viewpoint, The view over the Ribeira from here takes in some of the main sights of the city; the Dom Luis bridge, the Se and Bishop's Palace all standing out above the patchwork of terracotta roofs below. It's a highly atmospheric spot at dusk, when landmarks are illuminated and the lights on flick on one by one.もっと詳しく

  • Porto Calém

    2023年4月26日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Then we walked down a hill to the Port House called Calém where Doug had pre arranged a tour for us to go on. The house was busy but we noted there were open spots for the next English tour. The displays were excellent, the tour worthwhile and the cellars were impressive with the oak barrels holding about 15,000 bottles of port wine each.

    We enjoyed the tour and tried to sort out the differences between types of port (its complicated!). Basically White (white grapes only, Rose, used as an aperitif and for cocktails), Ruby (blended, oak or stainless vats; does not age after bottling), and Tawny (keeps aging in the bottle indefinitely getting lighter as it goes) and then one that is produced from one grape only if there is an exceptional year for that. The oldest bottles they have date to 1870 (not for sale!).

    After the tour we did the “chocolate and port tasting” and again decided of the three offered we liked the 10 year old tawny the best and paired with milk chocolate in particular. We bought a ½ bottle to enjoy during our four night stay upcoming in Lisbon.
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  • Dom Luis Bridge

    2023年4月26日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    After our 3 samplings of Port (which we shared!) we walked up over 100 steps to the upper level of this Bridge offering nice views of the Douro River. Pedestrians and street cars are on the upper level, autos and pedestrians on the lower. Lots of tour boats going up and down the river

    If the Clerigos Tower isn't the iconic image of Porto, this bridge is. The Dom Luís I Bridge is a double-deck metal arch bridge that spans the River Douro between the cities of Porto and Vila Nova de Gaia. At its construction, its 172m span was the longest of its type in the world.

    In 1879, Gustave Eiffel presented a project to construct a new bridge over the Douro, with a high single deck in order to facilitate ship navigation. This project was rejected due to dramatic growth of the urban population, which required a re-thinking of the limits of a single-deck platform.

    A competition was initiated in November 1880, in order to construct a double-deck metal bridge, the public work was awarded to the Belgian Société de Willebroek, from Brussels, administrated by Théophile Seyrig, a disciple of Gustave Eiffel.
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  • Port Institute

    2023年4月26日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    The Port Institute is a building very near the Palacio Bolsa that ensures that the quality of Port leaving Porto is “up to snuff”. If has a laboratory for testing and a seal of quality. It has a small wing for tourists wishing to visit and learn about the Douro Valley where the grapes for making Port have grown for X years and a testing area. We arrived during the lunch break so took a break ourselves and had a beer on the patio overlooking the nearby square. Then we came back and a lady helped us figure out how to use the self serve port dispenser machine. You get a card and decide which of the ports you would like to try (ranging from 3.50 to 19.50 Euros per serving). You insert the card in the machine and out comes your port. We tried 3 types and decided we liked thd 10 year old tawny the best; the ruby was fruitier but not as complex in the taste (we didn’t try the 19.50 Euro port, stuck to our price range!).もっと詳しく

  • Sao Bento Station

    2023年4月26日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Porto São Bento Station is one of the most beautiful train stations in the world. It is just off the Avenida dos Aliados, in the center of Porto. The hall is decorated twenty thousand hand-illustrated tiles both pastural scenes (so called Romance Style) and some of the historical battles and other scenes of important moments in Portuguese history, such as the battle of Valdevez, the conquest of Ceuta in 1415 or the visit of King John I with his wife Felipa of Lancaster to Porto.

    The building is made of granite and was created by the architect José Marques da Silva. The tiles are the work of the artist Jorge Colaço. The first train to arrive at São Bento was 1896, when the building wasn’t even finished. It was officially inaugurated in 1916, but its tiles were manufactured as early as 1905.

    We thought we would scout out our departure for the morning, but the ticket office won't be open when we have to leave, the ticket machines were not available in English and the departure boards were confusing so think Uber would be an easier plan.
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  • Mercado Bolhao

    2023年4月26日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    This area of the metro station “Balhao” was very pleasant and active and Nancy would consider staying in this area if she was to return for a longer visit. The recently renovated market had lovely looking produce and snacks, seating for enjoying on site could be added and many of the restaurants still had “opening soon” signs on the upper level.

    We favoured a site down “cafeteria” right across from the market and were not disappointed by the cod dumpling snack called “ that you see everywhere in Portugal and the egg custard tart Pastei Da Nata.
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  • Chapel of Souls Curch

    2023年4月26日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    This church is noteworthy for its external Portuguese tile work called “azulejo” (from the Arabic word azzelij meaning “little polished stone”. The tilework dates back to the late 13th century when King Manuel I bought this from Seville in Spain to decorate the walls of his castle at Sintra. there is an entire museum dedicated to this beautiful decorating form and it is used extensively on both the inside and outside of buildings (we did not have time to visit). The most classical are the scenes of blue on white that we would soon see in the central rail station. Nancy found the inside of the chapel very pleasant. As this church is smaller and in active use it has been maintained well and does not have the “heavy feeling” of he churches that are large and feel very old inside.もっと詳しく

  • Carmo Church

    2023年4月26日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    There are two churches here side-by-side with a 3 foot wide house connecting them. The left side is Igreja dos Carmelitas for the nuns. We toured the monks' Igreja do Carmo on the right side of the church as it was open. It was similar to the Sao Franciscan church and the brothers could choose to be buried below the church. Of particular interest was a room of a lot of relics including ones said to contain the bones of particular saints and one that had a certificate of authenticity from the 1700s said that it contained a tiny wooden cross made from the original Cross of Jesus. Also a room of vestments which outlined which colour of robe would be worn on which occasions (eg green was the everyday robe colour).もっと詳しく

  • Torre dos Clérigos

    2023年4月26日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    After we had breakfast at cute "Mom and Pop café" close to our accommodation, we walked to this plaza close by to see this tower built in 1753. At one time this was the highest building in Porto and is probably the most iconic landmark of the city.もっと詳しく

  • Day 4

    2023年4月25日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Just as we were getting tired and abit grumpy we came across this cute place and they seated us as someone had not shown up for their reservation. We love Italian on tired late travel nights so it was perfect! Doug had Pasta Carbonarra and Nancy had fresh made ravioli ragu. Yummm!
    14.752 steps sounds normal, but they really, actually, surely, were uphill both ways and we were too tired to finish our diary that night.
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  • Cais da Ribeira

    2023年4月25日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    From Sao Francisco church we walked down to the riverfront and along it until we reached one the bridges that crosses to the other side. Feeling a bit tired by this point we took the funicular up the hillside and then started the task of finding somewhere to have dinner. The riverfront was a very lively scene and there were a lot of people, in part due to the fact that today, April 24, was "Freedom Day" in Portugal which equaled more people and less restaurants being open.もっと詳しく

  • Sao Francisco

    2023年4月25日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    The land that the Palacio Bolsa was constructed on was donated by Queen Marie and the pillars of the convent that stood on the site were reused in the construction of the main trading space. Next to the Bolsa and under the shroud of renovation, is this renaissance church of the Franciscan brothers. Most of what you see in the church dates from the 1500s and they were working on restoration of the main alter. Other carved and gold coloured woodwork is needing restoration as well but it is a huge task and one is glad they charge €9 per person to go in with the hope that they will be able to preserve and restore this. The attached hall which has a white painted ceiling and large mural was built in the 19th century has been fully restored and is striking in that it all looks so new, including the costuming of the porcelain religious figures that accompany all these churches. Upstairs were interesting exhibits with engravings verifying the status of Franciscan brothers that wished to join the Third Order in Porto. In the lowest level (basement) is the cemetery Catacombs and Ossuary) for the monks who wished to be buried there (the burying of people below the church was banned by the city in 1866). It is a very tidy space with wood covers with numbers on the burial spots between constructed stones. There was music playing throughout the space church and space which softened the unsettled feeling that Nancy had going through these old churches.もっと詳しく

  • Palacio de Bolsa

    2023年4月25日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    First stop after check in was this building built on the site of a former convent and willed to the city by Queen Maria. It opened in 1884 and served as the financial hub of Portugal until it was moved to Lisbon in . At the time of construction, both electricity and the telephone had been invented and the chandeliers in the main trading hallway weigh 250 kg. each, taking 3 men to drop it down by cable and 5 men to hoist it up again when it is cleaned and lightbulbs changed annually. It was a place where trades were brought in from the ships, wholesaled to buyers, there were additional meeting spaces including a commercial court. The building is very ornate and impressive especially the Arabian Hall which is currently the most used room, rents out at at the cost of 200 persons admission per hours but $5,000 if after 7 pm. It is now a tourist site primarily.もっと詳しく

  • Arrival in Porto

    2023年4月25日, ポルトガル ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Taxi was on time and picked us up at 7 to take us to the airport. Check in smooth. Half hour delay after boarding due to fog too dense to take off, but smooth flight of about 2 hrs to Porto.

    The Metro from the airport took us to the centre of town (get off at Trinidad station) and we walked up and down, down and up cobbled lanes to get to our apartment as we had arranged a 1-2pm arrival, but nobody was there. Found a gelateria and had sit down while we continued to try to reach the owner. He advised he forgot to the send the codes to get in....was never planning to be on site as we had understood. Finally got codes and got in about 3:30. Accommodation adequate, good bed, clean. Other tourists going in and out the buildings, definitely an area of redevelopment with buildings empty and derelict looking next to others that are being lived in and renovated. Everywhere it is like this, an old, old city, very narrow streets, tuk tuks taking tourists about, some renovated buildings, most not although outside appearances can be deceiving.

    Porto is very photogenic.
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  • Day 3 Overview

    2023年4月24日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Today was our driving tour of the central/east part. Picked up a Ford Fiesta at 8:30 from Ilha Verde car rental. Weather was very wet from the start.

    Got some clear views of the north coast on the way home.

    Did 100 km of driving and almost nothing on foot (7,802 steps) except looking for dinner in Ponta Delgado. Generally restaurants here open 1830-1900 hrs so we decided to cheap out and buy some eggs and just made omelets for dinner rather than go out again for dinner. Tomorrow is our early flight to Porto.
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  • Santo Antonio Pineapple Plantation

    2023年4月24日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    In the early 1900s pineapples were imported from Venezuela and a labour and time intensive way was developed for growing them in a greenhouse. There are 3 plantations on the Island, apparently now heavily subsidized by the government as a historical/agritourism attraction. It takes a series of 3 transplants and pruning and about 2.5 years to grow a pineapple. Of interest all of them in the greenhouse are forced to bloom at once (which leads to the fruit) on exposure of to ethylene gas. They are smaller and rounder than the pineapples grow in fields in tropical climates. The one we bought cost €7 which would never made for an agriculturally profitable product, tasted pretty similar but was nicely ripe with more pineapple fragrance before cutting than the typical North American store bought pineapple.もっと詳しく

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