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Middle East 2022
  • Nancy and Doug Trips
  • Nancy and Doug Trips

Middle East 2022

Tour of the Holy Sites and ancient monuments of Turkey, Jordan, Israel, Palestine and Egypt Les mer
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  • Nancy and Doug TripsMiddle East 2022Reisende
    World's Oldest Statue
    No photos allowed insideScrolls from outsideOldest known paintings of human figureMesha SteleNabatean Mosaic from Petra

    The Jordan Museum

    12. oktober 2022, Jordan ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    The Jordan Museum, built in 2014, is the biggest museum in Jordan The building itself combines the old and the new rough stones representing the past, smooth stones the present, and glass showing a view to the future.

    The museum, laid out in chronological order, ranges from prehistoric times through to the modern day. Start with pre-history, and history, then move on to the Islamic Period, the Classical Period, and end at the modern day with a vision to the future.

    There is a 9,500-year-old plaster statue from Ain Ghazal. Another important item is the Mesha stele, from 840 BC with Canaanite writing describing the victory of the king of Moab (now Al-Karak) over the Israelites. Other interesting exhibits include archaeological items from Petra, and Jordan’s Dead Sea Scrolls made of copper. These were on display, but photos not allowed inside the room.

    I enjoyed this museum, although it had a lot of overlap with the Archaeological Museum, it had the same advantage of the clear and educational layout. I would say the artefacts are fewer in number, but perhaps more high quality and, of course, more impressively present and I would suggest this is the better choice of the two. It was very educational -- this is the place to come to learn about all the ages in prehistory ass well as get the more recent history and culture of Jordan and the Bedu.    Les mer

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  • Nancy and Doug TripsMiddle East 2022Reisende
    Sidewalk nut roasterRas Asfoor - Chopped lamb with vegetables

    Amman

    12. oktober 2022, Jordan ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Stayed at the Khan Khediwe Hotel. Perfectly located in downtown and walking distance to the old downtown, Roman Theatre and Jordan Museum. Hotel is new and very comfortable.

    Amman is interesting. First impressions are that it is dirty and run down and it is, but at the same time it is pretty exciting. If you want adventure, just be a pedestrian here. Sidewalks are non-existent or broken and the only thing rarer than pedestrian crossings are unicorns. Crossing the street is a game of stepping in front of a car and daring it to hit you.

    The city is built on seven hills (Question: Why do these ancient cities always have SEVEN hills - Rome, Istanbul, Amman, Jerusalem?) and they are pretty serious. Streets go back and forth in switchbacks and houses are terraced up cliffs.

    Everywhere downtown including the alleys either side of the hotel is one giant street market. Unlike some of the bazaars in Istanbul, these are not for tourists. Seems that sometimes for a block or two all the shops are in the same sector. All shoes, then small appliances, or fans, or tools and hardware. Locals just know where to head to do the shopping.

    Had dinner at a takeaway joint up a back lane a block from the hotel (convenience was more important to me than Michelin stars). I noticed a staircase at the back and went up to find a dining room of plastic furniture. Ordered from the menu a lamb with vegetable stew. Came with a big pita and it was a fantastic flavour. With a bottle of water bill was 3.50 JD. Beat the iced tea on Rainbow Street for value.

    Very short visit of course, with Day 1 being the main walking tour as shown on the map. I just did what is called 'downtown' and did not get out to the mosques and museums that are recommended. Weather was mostly clear and warm and a moderate 13,176 steps walked.

    Day 2 was morning only as I was headed to pick up the rental car at noon, so a short walk to the Jordan Museum and back.    Les mer

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  • Nancy and Doug TripsMiddle East 2022Reisende
    Mosaic Exhibition at Entrance
    Ma'in, church of the AcropolisChurch of the Virgin MaryHippolytus Hall in front of the Church of the Virgin Mary.Apse of the Crypt of Saint ElianusThe Roman Road

    Madaba Archaeological Park

    12. oktober 2022, Jordan ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Took a car booked by the hotel to the airport and rented a Chinese Trumpchi small SUV from Avis. Quick drive to Madaba and found the Visitors Centre free parking in the middle of the city.

    This is an open air museum that has within it two churches a Roman road and a private Byzantine villa..

    As you first enter is an exhibition of some of the oldest mosaics found relocated from other sites in the Madaba area. The mosaics from the Ma'in, church of the Acropolis date back to 719 AD.

    Moving on to the Church of the Virgin Mary, built in the 6th century and discovered beneath the floor of a private house in 1887. The central mosaic, which is from 767, has a great geometric design.

    Crossing the Roman road which cut straight (of course -- it's Roman) through the area is the Church of the Prophet Elias (built AD 607), with a crypt (built AD 595). One beautiful small mosaic of the Tree of Life is in an alcove to the side.

    Finally under a protective roof are a number of Byzantine ruins, including the Hippolyte Hall with another large floor mosaic of the four seasons and depicting the myth of Hippolytus. Enjoyed the details (such as the fine green bird).    Les mer

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  • Nancy and Doug TripsMiddle East 2022Reisende

    St. George Greek Orthodox Church

    12. oktober 2022, Jordan ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    A short walk through an uber touristy pedestrian mall is the still active St. George Church with Madaba's most famous attraction.

    This is the huge mosaic map of the Middle East from Lebanon to the Nile Delta and is the oldest map of the Holy Land, being crsfted between 542 and 570. When Madaba was destroyed, it was covered, and was found when a new church was being constructed in 1884.The original map would have been 21 by 7m and had over 2 million pieces.

    The interior of the church is a beautiful and elaborate Orthodox church and all the "paintings" normal to churches are actually mosaics.    Les mer

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  • Nancy and Doug TripsMiddle East 2022Reisende
    The Brazen Serpent MonumentThe "Land of Milk and Honey"Dead Sea and mouth of the JordanRoad down to Dead SeaTree planted by the Pope

    Mount Nebo

    13. oktober 2022, Jordan ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Today will be a driving tour from Madaba. First stop out of Madaba was the pilgrimage site of Mt. Nebo.

    According to the Bible, Moses ascended Mount Nebo, and from there he saw the Promised Land. Moses died there, and his burial place is nearby, but the exact location is unknown. A monument atop Mount Nebo commemorates Moses' death after seeing Canaan, across the Jordan valley. Mount Nebo is then mentioned again in the Bible when the prophet Jeremiah hid the tabernacle and the Ark of the Covenant in a cave there.

    A Christian church from Byzantine times stands on the top of Mount Nebo. There is a very interesting mosaic there.

    In 2000, Pope John Paul II visited the summit of Mount Nebo during his pilgrimage to the Holy Land. During his visit, he planted an olive tree next to the Byzantine chapel, as a symbol of peace.

    A serpentine cross sculpture atop Mount Nebo was created by Italian artist Giovanni Fantoni. It is symbolic of the miracle of the bronze serpent invoked by Moses in the wilderness and the cross upon which Jesus was crucified.

    The views are very dramatic, but the skies were very hazy, so much of the effect is lost, but it is something to contemplate the historical significance of the site.    Les mer

  • Nancy and Doug TripsMiddle East 2022Reisende
    Former river baptism site
    Church of John the BaptistView of the West BankChurch of John the BaptistBones of a 6th-century monk in the Church of John the BaptistJordanian Wildlife blocking traffic

    Bethany Beyond the Jordan

    13. oktober 2022, Jordan ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Bethany Beyond the Jordan (al-Maghtas) is of immense religious significance to the majority of denominations of Christian faith, who have accepted this site as the location where Jesus of Nazareth was baptised by John the Baptist. This has led generations of monks, hermits, pilgrims and priests to reside in and visit the site, and to leave behind testimonies of their devotion and religious activities, dating to between the 4th and the 15th century CE. The site has popular status as pilgrimage destination for Christians, who engage in baptism rituals on site. It is also where Elijah is believed to have ascended to heaven and where Mary the Egyptian is believed to have lived as well as the place through which the Israelites are thought to have crossed into the Holy Land for the first time.

    Before going down to the river, we stopped in at a little museum with lots of Orthodox artifacts, but no explanations.

    The site where the Baptism took place is now far from the current river, as the river has changed course several times. There was a shrine built over the site and they have excavated down to the level of the old channel. The current river is now a site of Christian pilgrimage with people coming down to both sides to participate in baptism ceremonies. The river is actually the international boundary between Jordan and the occupied West Bank.

    You know you are in a different place when as you are leaving the parking lot, there is a travel disruption caused by camels crossing the road.    Les mer

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  • Nancy and Doug TripsMiddle East 2022Reisende
    Chairs for rentMany resorts line the coastlineOh dear!

    Dead Sea Panoramic Complex

    13. oktober 2022, Jordan ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Drove along the Dead Sea, seeing the beaches where you can pay to access the 'public' beaches and a large number of large international resorts.

    Then a climb up to the complex where there is a restaurant, viewpoints and an interpretive centre.

    Started with an overpriced lunch of a mixed grill, but a priceless view.

    The small museum showed the origins and history of the Dead Sea and also the unique ecosystem in the valley.

    I learned that the valley was not created by glaciation or floods, but is actually part of the Great Rift Valley that runs from Ethiopia to Turkey. Humans evolved in the Great Rift Valley in Africa, and they migrated along the land bridge, entering Asia and Europe via what is now Jordan, hence the rich archaeological history which I saw in the Amman museums.

    A large part of the exhibit was about how the Dead Sea is shrinking fast due to the diversion of water from the Jordan River to the north for domestic and agricultural uses.

    After leaving the Complex, and its much-appreciated covered parking, the road climbed up to the Madaba plateau along a spectacular canyon.    Les mer

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  • Nancy and Doug TripsMiddle East 2022Reisende
    Tell Madaba HotelTell Madaba HotelAdonis RestaurantAdonis RestaurantMadabaMadabaFarmland at outskirts of Madaba

    My Madaba stay

    13. oktober 2022, Jordan ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Madaba is a small town with everything you need and nicely located to the sites I was visiting. The centre of town is, of course, difficult to drive in but is only a few blocks.

    Stayed at the most marvelous little hotel. Tell Madaba is run by Edward and his mother and father who welcome you like family and are a wealth of advice and conversation. It was renovated in 2019 and is fabulous.

    Had dinner at the Adonis Restaurant and it was very nice. A dish called Sajyeh or Sagiat. Upscale sort of place

    Second night dinner was a takeaway shawarma for 1JD.    Les mer

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  • Nancy and Doug TripsMiddle East 2022Reisende
    Mouth of Wadi Mujib - Dry today
    Adventurers heading in to the Canyon

    Wadi Mujib

    14. oktober 2022, Jordan ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Halfway along the drive along the Dead Sea is the outlet of Wadi Mujib "Jordan's Grand Canyon ". They have set up an Adventure Centre and it was busy with young people getting kitted up in bathing suits and life jackets to go canyoning.

    The Dead Sea Highway is one of the three major national highways that run from the north to Aqaba. Stone cliffs running down to the vista of the Sea with its salt encrusted shoreline.    Les mer

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  • Nancy and Doug TripsMiddle East 2022Reisende
    Potash CityRoad up from Dead SeaVillages and farms in valley below KerakKerak moat1Oh .. helpfulSimple lunch of salad, hummus and breadTown of Kerak below Castle

    Kerak Castle

    14. oktober 2022, Jordan ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    From the rather sad and sadly named Potash City, I turned inland for another spectaclular and steep climb (I reckon an average 10% grade) up to the plateau..

    The hill at Kerak, having such a command over the countryside has been fortified and used by successive peoples going back to prehistory, but it was the Crusaders who built the massive Kerak Castle as one in a string of castles running from south to north to provide an outer line of defense and control the access and trade routes.. It was started in 1144 and took 20 years to build which is quick given the size, isolated location and the fact the Crusaders were outsiders with no access to a large labour force. In the end, the Crusaders only held the site for a little over 40 years, falling to a months-long siege by the Muslims in 1188. After, it continued as an important fort for the Ayyubids, Mamluks and Ottomans.

    It is a massive structure with 6m thick walls and multiple levels under the castle with tunnels and passages connecting dozens of rooms you can wander around..    Les mer

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  • Nancy and Doug TripsMiddle East 2022Reisende
    Dana Nature Preserve

    Dana Nature Preserve

    14. oktober 2022, Jordan ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Leaving Kerak, took a scenic drive through the countryside and desert on the way to Wadi Musa (Petra). There were a number of prosperous looking villages with nicer villas, many of which seem to be built with a plan to expand upwards. Most building around here is of reinforced concrete with standard concrete block walls.

    Stopped at a viewpoint over the Dana Nature Reserve, a hiking and camping destination. Jordan is pitching a lot of opportunities for adventure tourism.

    After that, I ran across a huge windfarm that took fifteen minutes to drive through and judging by the lean to the trees, may be located in a very good spot!    Les mer

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  • Nancy and Doug TripsMiddle East 2022Reisende

    The Siq

    15. oktober 2022, Jordan ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    What a way to enter the site. The walk from the entrance to Petra is first along a gravel road, then through the awe inspiring Siq, a narrow cleft through the red rock that almost closes together at the top. It still has original cobblestone flooring in some places, but modern aggregate has been laid to handle the tourist hordes. I got there by 6:30 both days, so got to experience this almost alone at times.

    Then, at the end, you get this tiny glimpse ahead of some sculpture -- yes, it is the Treasury, then all of a sudden you're out and there it is in front of you.

    It's easy footing as mentioned, and a downhill 3,000 steps in, and an uphill 3,000 out.

    Along the route there are several man-made features with niches and monuments and the engineering marvels such as the dams and the channels along the side to bring water in.    Les mer

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  • Nancy and Doug TripsMiddle East 2022Reisende

    The Treasury

    15. oktober 2022, Jordan ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    What can one say about this structure, THE iconic image of Petra that has not already been written except to say that standing in front of it in real life is beyond words.

    The structure is believed to have been the mausoleum of the Nabatean King Aretas IV in the 1st century AD. It became known as "Al-Khazneh", or The Treasury, in the early 19th century by the area's Bedouins as they had believed it contained treasures.Les mer

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  • Nancy and Doug TripsMiddle East 2022Reisende

    The Monastery - Ad Deir

    15. oktober 2022, Jordan ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    The Monastery is reached after a climb of some 850 to 900 "steps" , or in some cases, boulders or slippery slopes from the main street of Petra. Full confession here - I cheated and took a donkey for all except the last 150. Saved my body and beat the crowds. I was apparently the sixth person to get there that day.

    Again, you round a corner and suddenly there it is. Stunning. The huge thing (47m wide and 48m high) was carved out of solid rock around 50 AD. It was given the name by the Bedouin because there were crosses carved in it when it was used by the Byzantines. However, it is believed that it was built as a temple by a cult devoted to an old Nabataean King Obodas who died 9BC.    Les mer

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  • Nancy and Doug TripsMiddle East 2022Reisende

    Temple of the Winged Lions

    15. oktober 2022, Jordan ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    On a trail above and parallel to the main trail are another temple and Church (and a coffee shop where this old guy makes an awesome Turkish coffee). You also have some excellent views from above of the sites along the main trail below.

    The Nabatean temple was built in the first century to honour the goddess al-Uzza, and was destroyed in the 363 earthquake. It is mostly ruins now but you can find lots of columns that show the extent of this important temple.    Les mer

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  • Nancy and Doug TripsMiddle East 2022Reisende

    The Byzantine Church at Petra

    15. oktober 2022, Jordan ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Also on the upper trail is a Byzantine church built in the 5th century. It has some elaborate intact mosaics. Construction techniques used masonry techniques similar to the more ancient monuments as the native Nabateans had converted from paganism to Christianity under the ruling Roman / Byzantine regime.Les mer

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  • Nancy and Doug TripsMiddle East 2022Reisende

    Qasr al-Bint

    15. oktober 2022, Jordan ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    At the end of the main road not long before the start of the climb to the Monastery is this monumental temple built by the Nabatean, but as a standalone building rather than carved out of the rock. They turned out to be good builders, because it is still stranding after all the earthquakes.

    The name means “the palace of Pharaoh’s daughter.” referring to a legend that this daughter having to choose between two suitors asked them to build a water supply for her palace. They both got the job done at the same time, so she chose the modest one who took no credit for it, but said his success was due to God.    Les mer

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  • Nancy and Doug TripsMiddle East 2022Reisende

    The donkey ride

    15. oktober 2022, Jordan ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    One thing I can say I have never tried is a donkey ride up a cliff, so what better time to try it but now, and save some wear and tear on the legs right?

    So just after passing the Treasury were some donkey owners peddling their services. Hamid approached me and we agreed on a fee and off we went.
    William was a patient donkey accepting my considerable bulk and he bravely took me up to plateau just below the summit. He didn't always seem in control of the situation and I considered walking down but Hamid was concerned about my knees and so down I went on William's back. Well that was exciting. More terrifying than the space drop at Marineland that's for sure.

    In the end it saved my knees but frayed my nerves!    Les mer

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  • Nancy and Doug TripsMiddle East 2022Reisende

    The Roman road

    15. oktober 2022, Jordan ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Whenever you want an easy walk along a smooth path, just look for a Roman road! Yes, here in Petra, the old Roman road still has smooth and level paving stones. The Roman road forms a good length of the main trail with several of the monument sites along it.

    It was built in the 1st century after the Romans defeated the Nabatean empire. It was the main street of the city and would have had shops set back all along the route. Great gates defined the entrance to the road.    Les mer

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  • Nancy and Doug TripsMiddle East 2022Reisende

    Great Temple

    15. oktober 2022, Jordan ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    This large ruin is on the colonnaded street. It was built in the first century, and despite the name we call it, it is not certain what it's role was. Some archaeologists think it was most likely an administration/ political centre.

    It is best appreciated by viewing it from above near the Church.    Les mer

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  • Nancy and Doug TripsMiddle East 2022Reisende
    The Royal Tombs
    The Urn TombThe Urn Tomb's facadeThe Corinthian Tomb

    Royal Tombs

    15. oktober 2022, Jordan ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    I didn't get up to actually look inside these. They are up above the main trail to the right after you pass the Street of Facades.
    These are a series of carved mausoleums. It is not known who was buried there but the design indicates they probably are indeed for kings. Each is a different designLes mer

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  • Nancy and Doug TripsMiddle East 2022Reisende

    Theatre

    15. oktober 2022, Jordan ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    The theatre is more or less in the middle of main street. It was built in the first century when the Nabataean kingdom was at its peak. It was influenced by the Roman fashion of building theatres but in Nabataean style including being carved out of solid rock.

    The Romans added to it and the capacity is about 8500 spectators, which is actually bigger than the Amman (Philadelphia) theatre.

    You can see that, being cut out if sandstone, it has eroded more than similar theatres that were built with blocks and marble, but it remains an impressive accomplishment.    Les mer

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  • Nancy and Doug TripsMiddle East 2022Reisende

    Petra

    16. oktober 2022, Jordan ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    So Petra was everything one could hope for and more. Lived up to the hype and its designation as one of the Seven Wonders of the World. A lot of walking and to think there is even more one can do here. There are a number of hikes on the upper plateau. I did not get to the sacrifice in high places or the views from the ridge above the Monastery or the Tombs among many others.

    One option that I heard about was to come at the Monastery from Little Petra and a hiking trail that gets to it directly. I opted for the classic Siq entry and would not have missed the experience of that.
    Had a great lunch that was just a little pricey, but truly superb food at My Mother's Kitchen just a few steps from Petra entrance. My stay at the Petra Guest House was very nice with free parking and a decent buffet breakfast and dinner.

    The problem with Petra is the hawkers. The tables and booths set up everywhere are out of control and seriously detract from the appreciation of the sites. If you stop for moment to take a drink or look around, some vendor will try to sell you a ride or a kid will come along with postcards or bracelets. It's really too bad they can't regulate this but it has to do with tribal Bedouin claiming indigenous rights.    Les mer

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