Paris, Basque Country & Camino

The lively conversation with the high mileage pilgrims the evening before included speculation on how to outrun the anticipated crowds in the final stage of 13 miles. I had not found the crowds an issue as I had a mental framework going in that true pilgrimages around the worlds are often crowded at the end; it isn’t necessarily a more solitary walk which those folks had definitely had a chance to embrace more than I. Thus I would let things flow and try to savour my last day as it almost seemed short yet physically I felt ready to say “done!” As it turned out a rattle of a door in the hallway woke me at 5:15 am. Even though my body said it could use more rest my mind said might as well get going. At least I’d be ahead of the huge youth group staying at the Albergue. Therefore at 0630 am I was very surprised to see them all packed and ready to go. Don’t assume anything! Quick bite at the cafeteria CHE of fresh orange juice and toast with olive oil and the fresh tomato spread that is usually served here at breakfast that I had not yet tried. Then off walking savouring all the usual sensory inputs which gradually faded as civilization crept closer. All my spontaneous stops have worked out along The Way and I decided without checking Google reviews to sit down at a spot on the main road where they offered pulpo galego ie cut up boiled octopus sprinkled with paprika… as a tapa. This is likely the last time I will eat octopus due to a moving show I saw called My Octopus Teacher…..but like trying the escargot in Paris there is a time to just do it. As I settled in, a very pleasant woman asked if I was Camino-ing solo and Sandy from Washington state and I had a very pleasant lunch together. I had about 4 miles left and it ended up seeming quite long as gone were the trees and shade when I entered the outskirts of Santiago de Compostela. Gradually the spires of the church came into view and I walked through the historical core to the sound of a piper but it was hot and I was rather desperate to find my hotel. Once there and tidied up I had to push myself out to take in the 7:30 pm mass which was conducted mostly in Spanish. The bishop said a prayer in English at the end that all the pilgrims make it home safely. I again ducked into a doorway as I walked back to the hotel finding inside a delightful restaurant where I had battered hake with hand cut fries and salad and decided I d drop in again tomorrow.Read more