• Nancy and Doug Trips

SE Asia 2024

Our DIY tour of this fascinating region introduced us to many cultures, diverse traditions and interesting, mostly delicious, foods. We visited Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore and Philippines. Meer informatie
  • Wat Maha That

    12 maart 2024, Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    Our next stop was at an even older Wat. Wat Mahathat, also known as the Temple of the Great Relic, was built during the Ayutthaya period in the 14th century. The temple was established by King Borommaracha I and was named after the Mahathat relic, which is said to have been enshrined in the temple.

    The Mahathat relic is believed to be a bone of the Buddha's neck, which was brought to Thailand from Sri Lanka.

    The head of the Buddha encased in the roots of a tree is one of the most famous images of Ayutthaya.
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  • Wat Lokaya Sutha

    12 maart 2024, Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    Our last stop was at the reclining Buddha. This ancient statue inspired Rama III centuries later to build the gold one in Wat Pho in Bangkok. Our guide gave a summary of Buddhist teaching indicating that most Thais are Theravada Buddhists (vs Mahayana).

    We had a basic lunch at a road side restaurant and then drove back to busy Bangkok where we were let off at the MBK mall. Cash is King in Thailand and we had to get another withdrawal to pay for a dinner of KFC to supplement our largely carbohydrate meal at the restaurant, then a Grab back to the hotel.

    FINAL MUSINGS ON BANGKOK
    Leaving the upper end comforts of our JAL flight into the heat, congestion and traffic of Bangkok was indeed culture shock for Nancy; Doug being more acclimatized from his trip to the Middle East. We enjoyed the neighborhood and found the Saran Poshtel modern and of good value with an excellent breakfast. The only downside was its lack of connection to rapid transit but this is soon to change as an underground station is being built very close by and we found it easy to access the Chao Phraya River Tourist Boat which we'd highly recommend for sights close to the river. It is not an easy life for many families; the vendors who line the hot streets now congested with the smell of exhaust and smog decreasing the QoL for many. For those who can afford them, cars were surprisingly large and also rarely of vintage model. Grabs were surprisingly cheap given the cost of the cars and fuel and we wondered how much the drivers actually make. The contrast between street life and the mega shopping centers and advertisements for Korean facial masks on the transit line was vexing to Nancy; such will be the state of affairs Doug advises for SE Asia aside from Singapore.
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  • Off to Cambodia

    13 maart 2024, Cambodja ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    We did some blog edits and a couple of phone calls before checking out at 11 and calling our Grab to DMK airport which took over an hour. Lunch was at a large primarily Asian food court outside security. The flight to Siem Reap smooth and full and took an hour (it would take full day by land transportation). Doug had done e-Visas and it paid off as we bypassed a long line. We had also paid extra to exceed our carry on luggage total limited to 7 kg so did not need to go to collect it or risk losing it. We were met by our pickup service and an almost hour long drive in, as the new Siem Reap International just opened in October and is located far from town. Initial impressions: Cambodia is much drier looking and a bit hilly compared with Bangkok. The highway itself is only two lanes and both autos and motorcycles sharing the roads. Nancy made note of a wooden oxen cart being towed by a motorcycle containing a ?calf of some sort. Sidewalks appeared around the area where our hotel is. Dinner nearby at Tevy's which Nancy had read about. We had the hotel call ahead and the place was full; we were surprisingly welcomed by an Irishman Cecil who works there as a volunteer. You wait outside until there is a table inside where it is air conditioned. Cecil says he was working as an educator and met Tevy and helped her open the restaurant and it only trains/employs young women. Tevy's father and 3 sisters were killed by the Khmer Rouge and she personally thanked us for coming. We were to confirm our initial impressions that the people here are friendly, welcoming and a bit formal, they also wai (sampeah in Khmer) as in Thailand (bowed head with hands together to say thanks).Meer informatie

  • City Introduction Walk

    14 maart 2024, Cambodja ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    Brother Bong Cafe close to our hotel had good reviews on Trip Adisvor so we gave it a try for breakfast. Nancy had a large bowl of fruit which came with a tiny bowl of yoghurt, Doug had a typical Khmer breakfast of vegetable noodle soup and we both had an excellent coffee (lots of expresso machines here; often the coffee is as expensive as the meal). We then did a walking tour of Siem Reap which Doug had found; highlights were two Buddhist temples, the later one dating from the 13th century (reclining Buddha) and having beautiful grounds with Plumeria. We had lunch near Old Market and took our time as Angkor National Museum was open until 1830 hrs. After lunch we took a Tuk Tuk there, he did a detour to a stop so we could buy tickets...we insisted we go directly there; such a dilemma as he/the ticket seller would get a slice of the action but we did not want to take the $ away from the museum and also did not want to risk a scammed ticket although we doubt that would have been the case. He was gracious in the decline and thanked us for hiring him (met the Grab price after initially asking for double). Everyone is trying so hard to making a living.Meer informatie

  • Wat Preah Prom Rath

    14 maart 2024, Cambodja ⋅ ⛅ 34 °C

    Also known as the Royal Fortune Buddha Temple, Wat Preah Prom Rath is one of the most beautiful pagodas in Siem Reap and Cambodia. It is located on the riverside near the Old Market. There are many statues in the temple grounds, colourful wall paintings, beautifully decorated rooms. and a large sleeping Buddha.

    There is no clear date on when the pagoda was built, but what made it famous was the large sleeping Buddha in the main temple, which was installed in 1500. They made quite a few extensions to the main building and you will now see an academic building, as well as a library here.
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  • Angkor National Museum

    14 maart 2024, Cambodja ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C

    We spent almost four hours in the National Museum of Angkor and it is very well done and air conditioned as well which made for a pleasant afternoon. It documents the Khmer Empire (802-1431 AD): a Hindu-Buddhist empire centered around hydraulic cities. The time lines are defined after the empire's most well known capital and UNESCO heritage site, Angkor. Pre Angkor (about 100-800 AD), Angkor (800-1400 AD) and post Angkor (1400 AD-present). Galleries were devoted to various timelines and themes.

    The relationship and interplay between Hinduism and Buddhism is complex. Both have their origins in India and the Buddha, one of mankind's great spiritual luminaries, was born Prince Siddhartha Gautama in 563 BC in Nepal. From a simplistic point of view, the Hindu beliefs are contained in four scriptures making up the Vedas. Three main "God" players are Brahma (The Creator), Vishnu (The Protector), and Shiva (The Destroyer). In addition there is "animism" which roughly defined is belief systems about the natural world. Mount Meru is conceptualized as the center of the Hindu universe and the temples of the Angkor period were designed so Meru, was the central structure and the moat around the temple represented the oceans. Of interest is the lotus which we see for sale near any Buddhist temple and a symbol in a variety of ways for Egyptians, Hindus and Buddhists.

    The styling of the sandstone statues and carvings changed over time and scholars can identify all the various periods depending on the features. King Jayaraman VII who reigned 1181-1219 AD (European Middle Ages and Doug noted the equal quality of carving to that seen in churches of the Medieval period) is generally considered to be Cambodia's greatest king and is still revered today. He was both a great military leader who expanded the empire to its zenith and also regarded as a man of compassion for his subjects.

    The evolution of Buddhism into the Khmer civilization while respecting Hinduism was a major achievement. The museum did not have a section on what happened to this great civilization, but we had seen an IMAX film previously which postulated climate change: a drought that lasted so long, all the people left. Of interest, there was no jewelry or other objects as part of the museum, although certainly their costumes suggest jewelry was worn.
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  • Angkor Wat

    15 maart 2024, Cambodja ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Our plan was to do an efficient tour of Angkor Wat and three smaller temples, so we booked a car through Klook for the day but as Doug had a bit of a GI upset in the night again, we limited our visit to the two main temples leaving the hotel at 0830 hrs and returning about 1500 hrs which was long enough given the high temperature; Doug's tummy trouble settled and was not an issue.

    Angkor Wat is a Hindu-Buddhist temple and The Guinness World Records considers it as the largest religious structure in the world. It was originally constructed as a Hindu temple dedicated to the god Vishnu for the Khmer Empire by King Suryavarman II during the 12th century, it was gradually transformed into a Buddhist temple towards the end of the century; as such, it is also described as a "Hindu-Buddhist" temple and has been in use by local followers even after Angkor was overtaken by jungle and then "discovered" by a Portuguese friar in 1586 and then a French explorer in the 1840s.It is designed to represent Mount Meru, home of the devas in Hindu mythology: within a moat more than 5 kilometers long and an outer wall 3.6 kilometers long are three rectangular galleries, each raised above the next. At the centre of the temple stands five towers. Unlike most Angkorian temples, Angkor Wat is oriented to the west; scholars are divided as to the significance of this. The temple is admired for the grandeur and harmony of the architecture, its extensive bas-reliefs, and for the numerous devatas adorning its walls.
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  • Bayon

    15 maart 2024, Cambodja ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    After some rehydration, we headed over to nearby Angkor Thom and the Bayon temple that lies at its center. This is notable for being built by Angkor's favorite and one of its last leaders, King Jayavarman VII in the late 12th or early 13th century.

    The Bayon's most distinctive feature is the multitude of smiling stone faces - probably modeled on the face of "King Jay the 7th" smiling serenely on the people he loved so much on every side of the many towers that jut out from the upper terrace and cluster around its central peak. The main conservatory body, the Japanese Government Team for the Safeguarding of Angkor has described the temple as "the most striking expression of the baroque style" of Khmer architecture, as contrasted with the classical style of Angkor Wat. This area is relatively small and you can not walk into the temple due to the overall state.
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  • Phare Cambodian Circus

    15 maart 2024, Cambodja ⋅ 🌙 31 °C

    We showered, rested and had dinner at the hotel. Doug had arranged for tickets to the "Phare Circus".

    Phare artists are students and graduates from Phare Ponleu Selpak’s (www.phareps.org) vocational training center in Battambang. The association was formed in 1994 by 9 young men coming home from a refugee camp after the Khmer Rouge regime. They were greatly helped during that time by an art teacher using drawing classes as therapy and wanted to share this new skill among the poor, socially deprived and troubled youngsters in Battambang. They founded an art school and public school followed to offer free education. A music school and theatre school were next and finally, for the kids who wanted more, the circus school. Today more than 1,200 pupils attend the public school daily and 500 attend the alternative schools.

    Phare The Cambodian Circus is the social business extension of Phare Ponleu Selpak. - roughly translated, The Brightness of the Arts school. The circus provides job opportunities to the school’s graduates, allowing them to hone their skills, earn a decent wage and give them self-respect and freedom, breaking the cycle of poverty. Revenue generated also funds the school’s academic and artistic education programs as well as community support and engagement.

    We had underestimated the effect that the "River Festival" that was running March 15-16 would have on our transportation to the Phare Circus across town. It was an incredible crowd scene of traffic and people but we managed to get there with a tuk tuk driver working partly at the hotel who was very pleasant. It was more of a cultural show than "circus"; very enjoyable with some impressive music, theatrics and acrobatics (no net - YIKES!). We were on bench seating at the top and luckily for Doug, no one in front of him so he could stretch his legs out; otherwise it would have been a cramped hour. The talent these gymnasts showed was absolutely world-class / Cirque de Soleil level stuff.
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  • Bike Tour of the Cambodian Countryside

    16 maart 2024, Cambodja ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    We booked this through Klook. Arrived early at 0715 hrs to find we were the only guests, so off we went with our guide Sat Po. It was our first time using e bikes and we were glad we had them; not being avid bikers, there were aspects that were challenging when we were on road with bus/cars (thankfully that part did not last long), thick sand, bumps and stones and a hot 30 minutes back on the wide shoulder of a highway to get back. Despite all this, we enjoyed it and got a chance to walk through the market in Angkor that we had driven by the day before, stop to visit two local Cambodian country side families: rice noodle making and sampling sticky rice with mung beans packed into the hollow of bamboo and cooked over open fire. Local country people live extremely modestly and like they have for centuries likely: a house made of various materials on stilts (upper area of sleeping away from poisonous insects and animals, lower area during the dry season for activities, cooking is outside on charcoal, the bathroom is a privy, water purity through a clay filter and can not necessarily be trusted. Garbage is burned at the road side (sadly and expectedly we see the effects of plastic everywhere). The people we visited are actually on UNESCO sanctioned property; seems they are "squatters" even though they've lived there for years, what will happen to them in future seems uncertain. Sat Po who is likely in his late 40s has two children and a wife who works in retail sales for an electronics company. They live with her 60 something year old parents who retired from teaching. As his wife is the youngest daughter, they have the responsibility to support them now.. Sat Po was raised by his grandmother when his parents separated as father wanted the country and mother the city and both formed new families. His family was directly impacted by the Khmer Rouge with two uncles dying of starvation. He put himself through university with the help of several people from the sounds of things including doing chores including massaging of a monk. We stopped at a Buddhist temple and discussed further the role of spiritual thought for people who have endured much suffering. He hopes for better education and health care in Cambodia.Meer informatie

  • Lunch and home to relax

    16 maart 2024, Cambodja ⋅ ⛅ 34 °C

    The best strategy for visiting a hot place is tour in the morning. The tour operator dropped us at Mahob, a restaurant he recommended. It was nice, more upper end than we have been eating at and we saw a bus load of flushed tourists come and go. We took a long slow walk along the river and the street market to our hotel, where we cooled off at the pool.Meer informatie

  • Sacred Dancers of Angkor. Tasting Dinner

    16 maart 2024, Cambodja ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    Doug had arranged tickets to The Sacred Dancers of Angkor held on the grounds of a 5 star hotel nearby. Again, due to the River Festival, the bridge we wanted to cross was closed so it ended up being a hot, crowded, memorable and sometimes sad walk through the food and sales vendors lining both sides of the River. We had noted earlier armed police presence due to the visit of the Prime Minister. Of note, were a few individuals asking for money for obviously very sad personal circumstances: at least two very disabled individuals with family members. Nancy suspected hydrocephalus or brain tumors, craniotomy scars were noted and one lady had a limb missing, no doubt from a landmine explosion as well as a few parents with children begging and who looked very thin (begging outright seemed rare and it is likely the most desperate given the culture is one of self sufficiency). This left her with a very unsettled feeling given that we were not organized with any appropriately sized bills to give to undoubtedly deserving individuals.

    The Sacred Dancers perform the unique and traditional Khmer Ballet known as Apsara. Ravynn founded the Nginn Karet Foundation as a charitable institution in 1994, with the main goal of meeting the basic needs of Banteay Srei’s poverty-stricken villagers and teach them the discipline in the ancestral Khmer way: meditation, praying and mastering more than 4500 gestures. These artists, born in the land of Angkor, are now professionals .

    The ongoing background of Khmer singing, fireworks impacted on the show. The opening was done by younger girls. None of the dancers were in the typical apsara headdress as depicted in the sandstone carvings at Angkor Wat or the advertised picture. Having a gourmet dinner on the lawn or the high end FCC Hotel ($350/night vs our hotel at $45) left Nancy with some ambivalence given walking through the masses just before. The service was very attentive and we felt like royalty. The food was top notch and memorable; the maître de we think was French and made a memorable comment: when Nancy remarked after the 3rd course she already felt full he said that it was a fortunate way to feel...how true...sad but true.
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  • Angkor Botanical Garden

    17 maart 2024, Cambodja ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Tuk Tuk driver Mr. Po Lo was assigned to us by the pleasant Mr. Ko Koa at the hotel to get us to our first stop of the morning: the Angkor Botanical Garden. He was keen to be our "driver" for the day so we decided to do so although we didn't have far to go until the next stop. This Botanical Garden was opened in 2018 and admission is by donation. We had a coffee and pastry in the cafe and strolled about, fed some Koi and enjoyed the surroundings although there was a lack of details to what we were seeing. 90 minutes was plenty of time as the park is not that large. We think it is the cicadas that make the intense "Jungle Song" although we never could see any.Meer informatie

  • APOPO Demining Visitor Centre

    17 maart 2024, Cambodja ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    After the Botanical Garden, it was a 2-minute ride to the home of the Hero Rats. They had some very educational and moving exhibits in an airconditioned environment and a 45 minute tour. Our guide was very entertaining and referred to the Hero Rats as "being in Commando Training". Nancy asked about the local people we see with missing limbs. He told the group that as a 3rd world country Cambodia has no social safety net for the disabled at all. There is support for missing limb prosthetics and rehab as part of the program but there is no help beyond that. People have to survive on their own. He said it is best if we can support local people by buying a book or whatever they are selling rather than if they are begging...one wonders how realistic this is when one is missing two hands. This is testament to the proud and self sufficient nature of the Cambodian people. Very moving and sad to think that as we visit, Russia has laid down innumerable land mines in the Ukraine conflict currently dragging on.
    APOPO is a Belgian NGO that started operations in Africa 25 years ago and trains rats and dogs to scent out land mines and unexploded bombs. They operate in over a dozen countries, including Cambodia which is one of the most heavily mined countries in the world with over 6 million mines having been placed and that have killed and maimed thousands of innocent civilians, mainly children, long after the wars they were used in ended.
    There are 6 teams with a total of 43 rats, each of which costs $10,000 dollars just to train, who currently work in Cambodia. Further expansion of the program is limited by funds. The admission ($10 US) supports the mission and we bought a couple of coasters to use as a "rat" instead of a mouse for our computers.
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  • Killing Fields Siem Reap Genocide Museum

    17 maart 2024, Cambodja ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C

    What is clear is that the present population and many of the people we met/got to talk to have been very affected on a personal basis by the wars of the 20th century.
    Next we visited Wat Thmei and The Siem Reap Genocide Museum.
    The monks were forced from this Buddhist temple, and it was used as a detention center during the Khmer Rouge regime. The local people did not know until afterward that many people were murdered there, not simply detained. Bones were uncovered in the grounds outside the temple, and those that were not able to be identified by family members have been preserved in this very visible memorial.

    The horrors of what Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge did to the Cambodian people must be remembered. It is unimaginable, but it is true. What is even more chilling is that the murders of 1.5 to 3 million people were carried out by Cambodians, not an occupying army. People including many children were tortured, often brutally slaughtered or starved to death. Anyone who resisted the ideology or belonging to certain groups including monks and the educated were killed! Think of trying to resurrect a country with virtually no one with any education to help.

    For lunch, we asked our driver to take us to Tevy's Restaurant where we went our first night. We asked him how much we owed and he replied "whatever you want to pay me". He seemed happy enough with the $20 USD we offered for the half day (average household income in Cambodia is $1592 per year in December 2021). Such a hard life. We again have a brief chat with Cecil and wished him Happy St Patrick's Day. He said current tourism is about 70% of pre Covid levels. He said much has yet to be done to improve the life of country people but overall things are improving; that is reassuring and we can only hope this is so. We decided to buy a snack for the evening, return to the airconditioned comfort and pool of our hotel before our travel out tomorrow.

    FINAL MUSINGS ON SIEM REAP
    Although our visit here was only 5 nights we feel we got a sense of what this country and its people have been through and how things are in this clearly developing nation. Surprisingly despite a policy of "dedollarization", this city runs on USD so it is easier to get those out of the bank than the local KHR. Our room at the Riversoul Boutique Hotel was in an excellent location and quiet even with the River Festival on, we enjoyed "Rusty", our nicknamed rooster neighbour. The room itself could appear a bit "tired" to certain "picky" discerning Westerners. In Siem Reap area, there is not much wood, thus there is heavy use of concrete in the furniture of most places. It would benefit from painting and some new sheers and upholstery on the chairs but everything was perfectly maintained. The pleasant staff kept our room and the pool clean and tidy and all for a very modest price. What a luxury to have air conditioning and a pool when the average country family here does not have a refrigerator or running water! The Tuk Tuk drivers who were affiliated with the hotel were friendly, sport more English than others and provided competitive rates and are anxious to sign on as your Tuk Tuk driver of the day for a reasonable charge to see the local sights. Despite the intense, dry and somewhat dusty conditions, chaotic and risky traffic practices (small children without helmets on motorcycles is very common) we found the people uniformly genuinely welcoming, respectful, gracious with an ethic of hard work. They have suffered greatly in the past and continue to do so amongst the great challenges which include climate change, environmental and political issues.
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  • Off to Vietnam

    18 maart 2024, Cambodja ⋅ ⛅ 36 °C

    We had an easy start to the travel day with breakfast, packing and a pre-booked car to Siem Reap Angkor International. The airport is brand new, lovely and almost deserted; hopefully traffic will grow here. Doug had a very tight seat pitch and the old knee was unhappy on Cambodia Angkor Air. Two completely empty exit rows but he was not allowed to move to because they "are a different price"; no freebees here! Thankfully we left 10 minutes early on the two hour flight to Hanoi getting in at 1600 hrs.Meer informatie

  • Tam Coc

    18 maart 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    We had a swift experience with Hanoi immigration as Doug had arranged an eVisa advance purchase; noted the Visa line to be quite long. Doug had pre purchased a ride with Xe Bus to Tam Coc; the issue was finding where the pickup was. No one seemed to know but a young man who asked if we needed a taxi helped us out (thankfully it was sincere as we do not understand a word of Vietnamese!) Turned out it was a car to Hanoi, then a van (with massage seats!) to Ninh Binh, and finally a transfer to another van to Tam Coc. All very 'relaxing" (NOT!) and five hours including crazy driving along Hanoi's rainy night time highway. We arrived at the Tam Coc Family Hotel in the pouring rain just a short walk up from our drop off point at the Emeralda Resort which looked quite nice. We had a very warm welcome from "Mama". Our room more basic than the last two places ($24CDN/night) and it was very humid and the aircon was not working very well.Meer informatie

  • Ninh Binh area

    19 maart 2024, Vietnam ⋅ 🌧 21 °C

    Nancy had wanted to visit the Bai Dinh Buddhist Temple Complex and take a sampan ride at Trang An. However, there was rain in the forecast, so she had Mama book a driver for the day, making the Temple the first stop and seeing whether the weather would clear for the second. She would not be talked into each of us getting a motorbike driver for the 30 km there and back! The day was marked by intermittant heavy rain and there were times electricity flickered on and off both at the Hotel and the temple complex. The drive to the three stops we made was through a landscape of karst limestone peaks and rice farms.Meer informatie

  • Bai Dinh Pagoda

    19 maart 2024, Vietnam ⋅ 🌧 20 °C

    Bái Đính Temple Spiritual and Cultural Complex is a complex of Buddhist temples. The compound consists of the original old temple and a modern era temple complex. It is considered the largest complex of Buddhist temples in Vietnam and has become a popular site for Buddhist pilgrimages from across Vietnam. As this is the festival season, we did see largely Vietnamese groups visiting and Doug was asked to pose with a group of tiny Vietnamese women who stood below his outstretched arm.

    This huge site has many structures built over several phases starting in 2003 and completed in 2010. The temple's architecture follows traditional lines, consisting of large halls, courtyards, and enclosures. the pagoda holds nine records, including: The largest gilded bronze Buddha in Asia, the largest bronze bell in Vietnam, the tallest stupa in Asia, the largest pagoda complex in Vietnam, and the largest number of Arhat statues in Vietnam. An Arhat is a "perfected person who has achieved spiritual enlightenment" and each of the 500 arhats lining the halls weighs 2.5 tons. We noted that they were contemporary carvings of variable build and interesting facial expressions, demonstrating various buddha hand symbols and all of them had black shiny areas from being touched by followers despite signage saying "Don't touch the buddha".

    The guided tour of the site is at http://qr.chuabaidinh.com.vn
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  • Trang An

    19 maart 2024, Vietnam ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    We stopped for 40 minutes at the Trang An, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Had it not been rainy and windy we would have gone on the 2.5-3 hour sampan paddle through the river with its surrounding rice fields, caves and pagodas. It is sometimes referred to as an internal Ha Long Bay (another UNESCO World Heritage site) which has the same karst rock formations jutting out of the ocean instead of the land and river. We learned that archaeological digs in the area have determined paleolithic, neolithic and agrarian societies going back over 30,000 years starting with cave dwellers and changing as the land elevation dropped and then rose again.Meer informatie

  • Bich Dong Pagoda

    19 maart 2024, Vietnam ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    We skipped the site of Vietnam's "ancient capital" Hoa Lư established about 1000 AD as reviews indicate there isn't much there in favor of visiting this pagoda. It is the oldest pagoda in the area, constructed in 1428.

    In 1705, two Buddhist monks named Tri Kien and Tri The discovered this pagoda and re-constructed it into three levels: Lower Pagoda (Ha Pagoda), Middle Pagoda (Trung Pagoda), and Upper Pagoda (Thuong Pagoda).

    In 1774, Lord Trinh Sam of Dang Ngoai (Outer Land) visited the pagoda and was impressed by the breathtaking panoramic view of nature there. The pagoda caught his attention, and he named it Bich Dong (Green Pearl Cave) Pagoda.

    We just looked at the first level as the skies just really opened up, and the steep, uneven 120 steps up to the second of three levels were definitely 'slippery when wet'. and more of a cascading stream by now. Two Vietnamese ladies spied Doug on the way down and "helped" him (although he was doing OK) step down the rock stairs then pulled out fridge magnets of Vietnam scenes for $1 USD which they wanted in exchange for the "help". Our first Vietnam "scam"; everyone is trying to make a living without breaking the law!
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  • Our Hanoi hotel and lunch

    20 maart 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Mama arranged transfer directly to our hotel in Hanoi. In the late morning, after a nice breakfast and coffee we said goodbye to Mama and were whisked off by van with the usual 'trust us' connections to our hotel in Hanoi's Old Quarter. Hanoi is the capital of Vietnam. Our companions were all young adult backpackers and the trunk space was full so backpacks and suitcases were loaded between seats. All seatbelts worked and Nancy was nestled in the back and Doug closer to the front. He advised her later the drive was just as crazy as our airport transfer, a lot of weaving in and out without the two car lengths stopping distance between vehicles they teach in driver's ed. She was happily oblivious to all that and her view was of wet rice paddies interspersed with housing off in the distance, and the odd cluster of mini pagodas (a cemetery). This gave way to increasing traffic and mixed old and new housing contrasting, then down a small roadway reminiscent of Europe and finally small enough that only motorbikes could pass. This was dotted with motorcycles, vendors and small alleyway stores. We were given a pleasant welcome to Splendid Holiday Hotel which is attached to Splendid Star Grand and Splendid Central and across from Splendid Pearlight. The young man at check in spoke English well and said he grew up in Tam Coc. Our room was not yet ready and a front desk staff suggested we go for the lunch at a chain called MET. We finally found it and Doug enjoyed his curry and Nancy a tofu hot pot with some stir fried garlic green beans as we were feeling veggie deprived.Meer informatie

  • Hoan Kiem Lake and area

    20 maart 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    We took a walk around around nearby Hoan Kiem Lake on a venture to pick up tickets to the Water Puppet theatre. The Lake provides a welcome calm amongst the constant background of traffic in this busy city. The walk proved challenging to the uninitiated pedestrian anxious about walking across lanes of motorcycles and cars. We had been warned by the hotel desk clerk that the worst thing one can do is to hesitate or backtrack. If you start across and are worried, stop but ideally proceed as that is what the oncoming traffic assumes you are going to do. School runs six days a week 0730-1715h so we realized we were in the midst of a parent pick up zone in addition to rush hour with many motorcycles waiting for their kids to get out. We finally reached the tour office that Doug had prebooked our tickets through. We actually could have bought them at the theatre but for the next day; one could have likely bought them through a tour operator closer to the hotel but it is popular and we suspect that the huge tour buses that pulled up may sop up a lot of the 300 tickets for each show.Meer informatie

  • Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre

    20 maart 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    This is the most renowned water Puppet theater in Vietnam, established in 1969.

    Every year during the annual rice harvest, farmers in Vietnam’s Red River Delta region would gather for folk singing and dancing at village festivals. About one thousand years ago, water puppets were added to the list of performances at these festivals. The first shows were hosted in the harvested rice fields, which could be filled with water to create a watery stage.

    Múa rối nước is a physically demanding craft. Puppeteers stand in water throughout the show, and use the movement of the water to create drama, perfect the illusion, and tell a story. The puppeteers’ secret lies in the material of the puppets themselves, which are made of buoyant fig wood and painted with lacquer. The puppeteers skillfully maneuver the puppet’s arms using bamboo sticks and strings. It takes decades to become a master water puppeteer.
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  • Getting Lost in Old Town Walking Tour

    21 maart 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We managed to find the meeting point at "Alley 13" for our GuruWalk of the Hanoi Old Quarter. GuruWalks are "volunteers" that you pay a tip to depending on how it goes. A delightful young woman named Huyen introduced herself to us and three other women; one of them was a solo traveler from Regina. Huyen was raised in Hanoi but now lives about an hour out of Hanoi by "beep beep honk honk" motorcycle. She had another tour in the afternoon as it was her "day off" from her usual job working for a motorbike company. Her parents were born in the 60s and remember the bombs dropping in the American War; they continue to be worried about food insecurity to this day. She hopes to travel one day but indicates that you need to prove that you have enough wealth to return to Vietnam before you can get a passport. First stop: coffee in a historical family home. Of interest was a temple is where ancestors are worshipped and typically there is a small shrine in the home such as this one. Going to the pagoda to worship Buddha is not a daily activity for most. We then walked through the Old Quarter seeing various vendors. She had arranged special permission to walk though one of the alleys in the old neighbourhood. These small breaks between buildings connect people to their very modest homes granted to them by the government at the time of Vietnam's Independence in the 1954 Geneva Agreement establishing North Vietnam. About 40 families access very small apartments that are almost more like caves with hardly any space between buildings, almost no light or ventilation. Both the water piping running along the floors and electrical cables are antiquated and there is a significant fire hazard. The new generation is less and less wanting to live in such spaces. The actual land value now is very high ($40,000 USD/sq m) but the families are asset rich and cash poor so stuck. We walked on to view the train that the French built north to south and the bridge that it runs on that was bombed and sort of rebuilt after WWII. Motorbikes and pedestrians only and it definitely shakes when you stand on it. The train system has not been upgraded since it was built; it is very slow and old. Long distance transport is by car with deluxe overnight sleeper coaches or plane.Meer informatie