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SE Asia 2024
  • Nancy and Doug Trips

SE Asia 2024

Our DIY tour of this fascinating region introduced us to many cultures, diverse traditions and interesting, mostly delicious, foods. We visited Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore and Philippines. Read more
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  • Trip start
    March 5, 2024
    Nancy and Doug TripsSE Asia 2024Traveler
    Our customized guidebook

    Planning

    March 4, 2024 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 0 °C

    Knew we wanted our next big trip to be Asia and booked the points tickets outbound and return a year in advance. We did reading and research to narrow down the countries/cities to visit and then kicked into gear in the fall after coming back from our fall visit to Toronto . More research, then booking 20 flights or trains,, 19 hotels, etc. and we are now pretty well organized with a 200-page custom guidebook. Made a few bookings, especially for some cooking classes and food tours.
    Several visas applied for and received and advanced customs forms or phone apps to configure, so are all set for smooth encounters with officialdom, we hope!
    Have had to review our packing list as we insist on traveling carry-on only, but the regional airlines have standard carry-on limits of 7kg. We have purchased upgrades to 14kg combined carry-on and personal item where possible. I really hope we can avoid ever checking a bag.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSE Asia 2024Traveler
    Ready to board in YVR
    BA Terraces in SEAGate S15 in SEA for flight to NaritaNancy likes the high lifeAppetizers from the Japanese set menuSet entree of Black Cod and Ginger Beef

    On our way

    March 5, 2024, Coastal Waters Of Southeast Alaska And British Columbia ⋅ 🌙 2 °C

    We planned to spend two nights in Vancouver visiting with family but our initial WestJet flight was cancelled due to lack of crew and we were rebooked the next morning at 0700 hrs. Kelowna-Victoria-Vancouver. Fortunately for us mechanical concerns forced a stop in Vancouver and we were able to disembark. We helped Jan with some set up tasks in her new apartment, had a nice dinner at the Keg and Uber'ed to the Sandman Hotel at YVR (good value, quiet and comfortable). Their shuttle took us to the airport at 0430 hrs. for our 0600 hr. flight to SEA with Alaska Airlines. Any anxiety about only leaving 75 minutes before our flight was relieved by a virtually deserted airport. We had a smooth flight, and a 5 hour layover partly spent in the lounge before our Japan Airlines flight. JAL Business Class provided a exceptional and memorable experience with lay flat seats, highly attentive service and a gourmet menu. We arrived at 15:00 hrs. into Narita Airport, Tokyo. Clearing Immigration and customs took a few minutes requiring digital photos and fingerprinting. The train ticket office was pretty busy (cash only and withdrawal from a Seven Bank ATM was seamless). We caught a 16:47 Sky Access direct train and got to our hotel at 18:15 hrs.Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSE Asia 2024Traveler
    Arrival Narita Airport Tokyo
    View up road to Tokyo Tower1Food court under Tokyo Tower for 1st dinner in Japan 1280 yenSelect the meal and pay with cash

    Tokyo Layover

    March 6, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    We stayed overnight at the Richmond Hotel a few blocks from Daimon train exit. Although we were rather tired and it was chilly out, it was not raining, so we took a walk up to see Zojo-Ji Temple and Tokyo Tower. We hoped to return to the temple the next morning as it was too dark to really see anything. Tokyo Tower had a basic food court, and we ordered a Ramen dish and paid through a vending machine, and then sat at a counter. Spice level 2/5 was certainly hot enough! Tasty, basic and did the trick. Tucked in 2100 hrs Tokyo time (0400 hrs PST).Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSE Asia 2024Traveler
    Zojo-ji Sange Datsumon Gate
    1Main Hall with Amida BuddhaAnkokudenCare Guardian Deities of Children

    Zojo-ji Temple

    March 7, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    We walked around the outside of Shiba Park last night on the way to Tokyo Tower, so we went back to see the temples this morning. Impressive, at one time home to 48 temples, grammar schools and 3,000 Buddhist monks. We took the nearby Monorail 20 minutes to Tokyo's main airport, Haneda, and went to the airport lounge for breakfast in preparation for our 6 hour flight to Bangkok.Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSE Asia 2024Traveler

    Haneda airport to Bangkok

    March 7, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    Haneda Airport is very nice and more updated than Narita. Washrooms at the airport were quite deluxe …., in fact Nancy overheard English speaking women in booths adjacent trying to figure out the multitude of signs in the booth. Waterfall and bird sounds played as you approached the toilet! This was the first of many interesting observations about public toilets in SE Asia. There was also a urinal booth and squat toilet booth.

    Another enjoyable flight on JAL Business Class with an amazing set Japanese appetizer tray. Arrival in BKK was actually a few minutes early. On approach into BKK one could see agricultural land almost all the way to the airport.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSE Asia 2024Traveler
    Breakfast spread at Saran Poshtel

    Bangkok & Saran Poshtel

    March 7, 2024 in Thailand ⋅ 🌙 32 °C

    Immigration was busy but moved along quickly, and we met our pre-booked car service outside arrivals. The car service price was the same as two coach bus tickets, and were dropped off right at our door after a one hour trip in rush hour traffic. It had been 6° C in Tokyo so 36° C in Bangkok was a huge change. Six lane elevated highways with many motorcycles weaving in and out; not for the faint of heart to drive a motorbike here and some are without helmets! We turned onto a street with a major dig going on but were relieved to see the Saran Poshtel was down a quiet street. Quite new, the room's air conditioner working well thankfully. Had a brief nap then walked out our street and found a Hong Kong noodle place. We noted sidewalks/streets are similar to Mexico with many possibility of falls and trips. Note to self - must stop and gawk, not walk and gawk! After showers we slept reasonably well, up at 0500 hrs. and went for a freshly prepared omelet for breakfast in the lobby.Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSE Asia 2024Traveler
    1Aboard the canal boatCow Niew Bin sticky rice, taro, pandan leaf wrapped in banana leaf and grilledTwo of these and a coffee are the staple breakfast for workers here1First Tuk Tuk ride, after two it was enough!

    Old Siam Food Tour by A Chef's Tour

    March 8, 2024 in Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    We were joining a tour at the Big C Mall, so caught a Grab and the first thing inside the door is a Timmies!

    We had decided to do "A Chef's Tour of Old Siam" as our first Bangkok outing as it included the experience of moving through the city, as well as giving us an edge or ordering something other than Pad Thai! Our guide Annie did the talking while her assistant Om arranged for our table, did the ordering and organized transportation making it a very seamless experience. First stop: a canal boat ride from Hua Chang Bridge Pier to Stop number 3, slowing down in respect as we passed by the shoreline of a Princess's House. Thailand became a constitutional monarchy in 1932 and the Royal Family is much revered with pictures of the King and Queen commonly seen.

    As we got off the boat at Bobae Market, we bought some sticky rice wrapped in banana leaf then grilled, which we took to the first stop. The sticky rice is a common on the go morning snack equivalent but decidedly less sweet than a TimBit!

    We walked through the market to the other side, then caught a tuk tuk ride to the first restaurant.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSE Asia 2024Traveler
    Signage indicating this restaurant has been awarded special status
    Hoi Tod Crispy MusselsTypically a small number of dishes are prepared well

    Siriwan

    March 8, 2024 in Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 33 °C

    First stop was at a modest appearing, yet famous place with the equivalent of a Thai Michelin star. Shell Shuan Shim (the bowl symbol) was established in 1961 as a symbol of "deliciousness that consumers trust" as a joint partnership between Shell (who supplied propane to modernize the cooking fuel) and the restaurant industry. The script at the bottom is an endorsement from a royal food authority. Ten new restaurants are added with selection criteria being: delicious taste, uniqueness of recipe, worthy of travelling for. Website: www.shellshuanshim.com.

    The restaurant had five items total on its menu and the cook was 2nd generation at the stir fry table.

    Next was the No. 53 bus to the 120 year old Nang Leong Market where a lot of Chinese had immigrated to in the past.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSE Asia 2024Traveler
    Pork belly and Duck

    Jib Kee Chinese restaurant

    March 8, 2024 in Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 34 °C

    The non air conditioned number 53 bus (8 THB) to the Nang Leong market area was held up by a peaceful protest regarding minimum wage (the average worker earns 350 THB/day ($18) and the cost of living in a room without cooking facilities would take all these earning).
    Jib Kee are 3rd generation Chinese and introduced crispy pork belly and roasted duck to the local Thais.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSE Asia 2024Traveler
    Crisp mung bean salad

    Ya Chaem's Kanom Bueang Yuan

    March 8, 2024 in Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 34 °C

    Kanom Bueang (crepe) Yuan (Vietnamese) is a Vietnamese savory crepe that inspired a Thai version. This is a traditional Thai snack that you can treat as a light meal. A pan size thin deep fried crepe is stuffed with shredded coconut, roasted peanuts, shrimp, salted radish and fried tofu. It’s served with fresh bean sprouts and sweet cucumber sauce. Ya Chaem uses a charcoal stove to cook her crepe – a slow cooking technique that adds aroma to the food. She is ready to retire, so her recipe may not survive. She turned a samosa-like creation in oil in the wok on charcoal with ease...one sees the danger in this no doubt old style cooking method before the days of propane!Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSE Asia 2024Traveler
    He's been waking up the neighbourhood in this spot for 60 years.
    Although he could rely on his family to support him, he has chosen to continue working

    Coffee

    March 8, 2024 in Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 34 °C

    We next visited a stand along the outside perimeter of the market where an elderly man who has been making coffee here for 60 years hand poured coffee served over ice with condensed milk and sugar. Om ran to get us safe ice. It was very delicious.Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSE Asia 2024Traveler

    Curry from the food court

    March 8, 2024 in Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 34 °C

    In this bustling food court most vendors specialized in one theme. From the curry restaurant we sampled four: Green Beef Curry, Panang chicken curry, Massaman Chicken Curry and Pad Phed Pa Duk catfish curry (our least favourite).Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSE Asia 2024Traveler
    "Flavour bombs"
    Tapioca Rice NoodlesNoodle boothKanom Krok - Coconut PancakesThai TacosKhanom Chun (Pandan jelly) and cakeSeasonal Mango

    Food Court at Nang Loeng Market

    Mar 8–11, 2024 in Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 34 °C

    After the curries we walked into heart of the market, stopping first for some Miang Kham which are single bite "flavour bombs" and very good.
    We tried rice-tapioca noodles with minced pork sausage (not a fan) and desserts: Kanom Krok: coconut milk, rice flour, sugar, and coconut water poured into small cups and heated until they crisped up on the outside,
    Crisp Kanom Tua Pad Mung bean rice crepe, small tacos with a sweet and savory filling, and Pandan "jello". We finished with a type of mango only available locally for three months of the year that will likely disappear from the local market being succeeded by the golden mango as the season goes all year.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSE Asia 2024Traveler
    Thai Pavilion and Buddaisawan Chapel

    National Museum

    March 8, 2024 in Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 35 °C

    From the Market, Annie called for a tuk tuk and we paid 200THB to go to the museum. Tuk tuks are for the experience, not economy -- a Grab was quoted at 80THB. The National Museum (200THB/person) is too large to do in the two hours we had before closing, but it was as much time as we had energy for, so we focused on Building 4 and 5 which covered the history.

    It is a very well done museum with excellent information panels and very nice artefact displays. It is interesting that 'prehistory' (i.e. before written records) lasted to the 6th century CE, long after Egypt, for example, entered into the historical era. Looking at the artefacts, it seemed to Doug that Stone Age development was very similar in southeast Asian and middle eastern areas in terms of technological and artistic development at about the same time, so he was not certain why the historical record is lacking. Were records lost due to decay in the tropical climate, or was language and writing delayed?

    Overall, an excellent overview and context for the different eras and regimes in the history of Thailand up until present. The main artefacts were statues of the Buddha and the influence of time and cultures on it. North to south cultures: Lappan, Sukhothai and Ayutthaya. There was also east to west convergence with Cambodian Khmer art impacting on the Buddha images, One notes specifically the change in the Ushnisha, the top of head of the Buddha (the symbol of his Enlightenment and Enthronement), as squarer, then flame, and finally the influence of European art with more of a bun and soft draping of the clothes.

    After closing, we walked home, and since we had so much to eat on the food tour, we just had some beers and instant noodles picked up in the hotel lobby and rested in our cool room!    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSE Asia 2024Traveler
    11

    Wat Saket (The Golden Mount)

    March 9, 2024 in Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    The first stop today was to be Wat Saket but sometimes, the journey is as enjoyable as the destination. On our way, we walked a very interesting route from our hotel to Wat Saket along the canal. Bought some fruit called chompoo (Thai rose apple which isn't really an apple, but tastes like a juicy apple) from a cart, and a lady beckoned us to take a seat at her coffee stand. So we paused, and sat on this back street and saw a small slice of real life for the people of this small area.

    Wat Saket is Thailand's most revered temple due to its close association with the Royal family. This stands out with its 58 meter high golden chedi (def: also called a stupa or pagoda, the most important and sacred structure of a wat or temple complex) on the artificial hill top of the Golden Mount overlooking the temple complex at the base of the mound. The Wat dates back to the Ayutthaya period and was later restored by King Rama I. At the time, cremations were forbidden within the city walls and so they would be held here. In the early 1800s, during the reign of Rama II a plague killed 30,000 people who were then brought here for cremation. Every year the communicable disease (cholera) kept returning for forty years, the worst being in 1849 when over 5,000 died in Bangkok. The massive pile of bodies attracted vultures creating a gruesome scene with Buddhist monks praying over the dead, terrible to imagine.

    Under King Rama III (1824-1851) they found that it was impossible to build a chedi here due to the soft soil and so the king had a mound of mud and bricks constructed to add stability to the base of the chedi. The Mount was reinforced with 1,000 teak logs to prevent the chedi and Mount from sinking. The present chedi which stands on the Golden Mount was constructed during the reign of Rama V (1853-1910) to hold a relic of Buddha which was given to him as a gift by the British. To further preserve and protect the Mount from eroding reinforced walls were added during World War II.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSE Asia 2024Traveler
    Karemeen & Sobereen
    Chicken Pad Krapow & papaya saladSataysJim Thompson HouseWood Silk Screen Printing BlockFoyerLiving Room

    Jim Thompson House

    March 9, 2024 in Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 33 °C

    We called a Grab (equivalent of Uber in Asia) from the Golden Mount to Jim Thompson House. On the way, googled Karemeen & Sobereen almost directly behind Jim Thompson and had a canal view lunch of Chicken Pad Krapow, papaya salad, chicken satay, beer and watermelon smoothie. Heard a Muslim call to prayer and we would shortly find out why that was.

    We got to the house where we were just on time for the 13:10 tour.

    The Jim Thompson House stands on the Saen Saeb canal across from Bangkrua, a traditionally Muslim area. The building was constructed by Jim Thompson, an American businessman, founder of the Thai Silk Company and art collector who wanted a home close to the Muslim quarter where highly skilled weavers were and also a place to showcase his private collection of Asian artifacts. Thompson revitalized the Thai hand-woven silk industry in the region in the 1950s and 60s following WWII.

    Apart from being a businessman with a father who had been in the textile industry, Jim Thompson had trained to be an architect and masterfully joined six historic teak wood houses, which were dismantled and brought from Ayutthaya to form his showcase home where he lived for nine years.

    The authenticity of the traditional houses was faithfully preserved, some of the houses were elevated off of the ground, other houses he added his own twist to, like the inclusion of an indoor staircase instead of the traditional outdoor stairs.

    Valuable items in the house include a dining table which once belonged to King Rama V, Belgian glass, a 17th century Buddha statue, Italian marble floors, Chandeliers, Benjarong earthenware, Thai and Burmese stone statues carvings from Cambodia and Chinese Ming porcelain.

    In 1967 at the age of 61, Thompson was visiting friends in Malaysia; he went out into the forest for a walk and disappeared. Extensive searches for him found no trace of him, and his disappearance remains a mystery.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSE Asia 2024Traveler
    Easy to get lostA Timmies on each floorElevated Monorail line and highways everywhere it seemsMalls, traffic and noise!

    MBK Center

    March 9, 2024 in Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 34 °C

    This 30 year old megamall was a 15 minute walk from Jim Thompson House and Nancy was looking for a couple of things so we went there. It has 2,000 stores selling everything you could possibly want. MBK is not a "high class" mall like Siam Center and stores here are on average less pricey than other Bangkok malls and each floor is dedicated to a particular item or range of goods, like the floor where all the stores sell shoes and the fourth floor which focuses on electrical gadgets plus an area called shopping street which has a maze of booths like a street market. On the top floor there is an entertainment section with cinemas, karaoke, a games arcade, bowling alley and restaurants.

    MBK is connected by elevated walkways to the high end Siam Discovery and Siam Paragon shopping centers.

    We felt the place had too much choice so decided to move on after having an iced americano and a latte.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSE Asia 2024Traveler

    Big C

    March 9, 2024 in Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    Looking for the simpler mall we met our food tour guide in, we walked
    about a half hour to the Big C mall. Big C is a large superstore chain based in Thailand that is a department store and supermarket somewhat along the lines of Walmart. This 4 story mall had Big C, plus a few independent stores.

    Nancy managed to find a couple of light clothes.

    We finished the evening with a food court before walking to the Hyatt to call for a Grab home. Everything in the food court runs on cash, no credit cards. The inconsistencies are a bit frustrating; at the food court with meal in hand, Doug had to buy a debit card specifically to pay at one food stand, then the drink place across the aisle did not accept the debit card and wanted cash...go figure!    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSE Asia 2024Traveler
    Entrance to Grand Palace
    Early morning food vendors already busyAlways narrow walks along market streets1Khao San Road early morningOne of the 178 murals from the Ramakien epicApproach to the Grand Palace1Prasat Phra Thep Bidon - Royal PantheonGolden ChediPhra Viharn YodRoyal Chapel of the Emerald Buddha - RearEntrance to Royal Chapel of the Emerald BuddhaMosaics on facade of Royal ChapelChakri Prasat Masat HallReal orchids growing within the treesDusit Maha Prasat Hall

    Grand Palace & Wat Phra Kaeo

    March 10, 2024 in Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    In the morning, we walked through the backpacker district of Chakrabonse and Khao San Roads without much evidence of the infamous non-stop nightlife at 8am!. We approached the Palace along grand streets and arrived around 9 (along with many others!). It was already very hot and humid.

    The Grand Palace complex was the official home of the King since 1782, however today the present King Rama IX lives at Chitralada Palace and the Grand Palace is used for important events and ceremonies. The palace was also the base for the royal court up until 1925. The Grand Palace was built in 1782 under Rama I when he transferred the country's capital from Thonburi to Bangkok (along with the Emerald Buddha). Each successive king had structures added to the palace complex up until the Royals moved out in 1925 followed by the government officials who left the palace in 1932 when a constitutional monarchy was established.

    Wat Phra Kaeo is the temple complex within the enclosure of the Palace and is more commonly known as Temple of the Emerald Buddha. The temple's claim to fame and main attraction is the Phra Kaew Morakot, the Emerald Buddha which was carved out of a single piece of jasper and has a long history of movement; it is believed to bring legitimacy and prosperity to those who possess it. The only person who is allowed to get within touching distance of the Buddha is the king. The Buddha is "dressed" in a different cloak for each season of the year and this is done by the king in a special ceremony.

    Within the temple complex there is a beautiful mural depicting the epic tale of Ramayana and many beautiful highly-decorated buildings and chedi (where the cremated remains of important people come to rest).

    We did not have a chance to enter the actual royal palace buildings, but could admire them from outside. Very ornate, we can imagine requiring much effort to maintain in this humid and hot climate. Construction materials: wood, brick with stucco, paint, gold leaf and glass,    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSE Asia 2024Traveler
    The highly revered Royal Highesses Maha Vagiralongkorn and Suthida TidjaiLotus buds and incense sticks ever present for purchase at Buddha worship sitesThe Reclining Buddha, it is amazingly largeThere is beautiful mother of pearl detailing on the feet and also doors of the templeBeautiful but very sun exposed and hot

    Wat Pho

    March 10, 2024 in Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 34 °C

    A hot walk around the outside of the Palace brought us to Wat Pho, also known as the Temple of the Reclining Buddha, The temple complex is Bangkok's largest temple as well as being one of the oldest, it also has the most extensive collection of Buddha images out of all Thailand temples (over 1,000). The temple was constructed about 200 years before Bangkok became the capital but was rebuilt under Rama I.

    The huge complex has all kinds of chapels, gardens, intricately painted murals, the library, bell towers and large stone statues guarding the sixteen temple gates.

    The site's top attraction is the reclining Buddha, a 46 meter long gold plated figure 15 meters high. His feet alone are 5 meters long. The statue is meant to signify Buddha's passing into Nirvana. There is intricate mother-of-pearl detail on the eyes and feet. As you approach the statue there is a long walkway lined with 108 bowls (the number 108 has religious significance). It is traditional to drop a coin in each of the bowls as you go along the path and as you drop each coin make a wish.

    We saw directional signs to massages, which seems strange, but a claim to fame is this is the birth place of modern massage. Before the temple was erected this site was an educational institute for Thai medicine and the massage school is still located here.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSE Asia 2024Traveler
    Wat Arun (Temple of the Dawn)Houses along the Chao Phraya RiverGlad for some shade and looking forward to a shower!1On the bridge over the canal to "our neighbourhood"

    Ferry home via Wat Arun

    March 10, 2024 in Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 35 °C

    We exited Wat Pho realizing we were hot and fatigued and decided to head home rather than take in the famous Wat Arun. First, we caught a boat which crossed the Chao Phraya River to Wat Arun, had a quick drink and glance at Wat Arun as we headed to the Blue Flag Chao Phraya Tourist Boat which took us from the Wat Arun Pier to the end of the line at Phra Arthit pier. We would highly recommend this boat as a good way to get to many of the main sites walkable from the river. A 15-minute walk along the river, through a park and down a bridge took us back to our neighbourhood. As usual, we were relieved to get to our room, turn on the aircon, hop into the shower, and cool down before heading out for dinner nearby.Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSE Asia 2024Traveler
    Entrance to Buhhhavas of the Substanceless UniverseGreat Hall of the Buddhavas of the Substanceless UniverseGreat Hall of Vajra DhammaDvaravati House courtyard1Pavilion of The EnlightenedRoyal Water Course ProcessionMondop of Bodhisattva AvalokitesavaraMondop of Bodhisattva AvalokitesavaraBodhisattva Avalokiteshvara (Kuan-Yin) - Performing a MiracleNorthern Thai VillageSakon Nakhon Four monumentsWater Buffalo CartsAncient Theatrical Pavilion1Sanphet Prasat PalaceBang Pa-In GardenBang Pa-In GardenBang Pa-In Garden

    Mueang Boran Ancient City

    March 11, 2024 in Thailand ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    We took a long Grab ride out about 30 km to this tourist attraction south of Bangkok, getting there around 9:30. Often called the world’s largest outdoor and cultural park, it was created by the Thai architect Lek Viriyapant and opened to the public in 1972. It will be interesting to read more about this man, he despaired that Thailand's first economic plan for modernizing the country put Thailand's rich cultural heritage at risk. He was so motivated in this regard to establish this very large park as well as the Erawan Museum nearby.
    His stated objectives: "to make modern people know about their history as the past and history is like a compass and a rudder directing smooth course for a ship.... to make use of the art which is the unceasingly precious heritage collected, to make our traditions and culture known to the world while cultivating the minds of those addicted to the flourish of science and those materialized by worldly pleasure...to declare the founders intention to make the Ancient Siam eternally last as the treasure of all mankind".

    The Ancient City is designed to showcase Thailand’s rich cultural heritage and historical landmarks. It replicates over 100 significant architectural and cultural wonders from all over Thailand, Some building are originals that were moved here, others are reproductions, both full-size and scale models, The replicas were constructed with the assistance of experts from the National Museum to ensure historical accuracy. These replicas are set within a large, beautifully landscaped park laid out in the shape of Thailand..

    Website with details at https://www.muangboranmuseum.com/en/#

    It again was very hot and the park is very large. We rented a golf cart to explore and it would have been impossible to do it any other way. The most elaborate and well maintained area of the park is central and we did the perimeter first; by the time we got back to the central area it had become too hot for us to really get out and explore individual buildings.

    Many are temples and required us to take off our lace on shoes. We had a small lunch at one of the establishments. Both of us had experienced a minor degree of tummy upset the day prior which quickly settled with a couple of doses of Pepto Bismol but between that and the heat we did not have much of an appetite.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSE Asia 2024Traveler
    Level Two - EarthTop Level - HeavenAt the BRT StationChinatown AlleyEntering ChinatownWat ArunApproaching The Grand PalaceThe Grand PalaceKiN At Samsen Restaurant

    Erawan Museum

    March 11, 2024 in Thailand ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

    After Ancient City, we took a taxi 25 minutes to the Erawan Museum, operated by the same group. You can not walk to it as it is surrounded by roads. The Museum's construction began in 1994 and photographs indicate there were none of the elevated highways that now surround it were present. Despite this, the museum and grounds are quite quiet. It is topped by a huge massive three headed elephant made of bronze.

    The museum is sectioned into 3 levels, the idea came from a book of Bhumitha, that heaven and earth are separated into 3 which are the underworld, the human earth, and heaven.. Chinese porcelain pieces are pieced together to decorate the interior of the 2nd level and a concise description is given of four pillars of guiding philosophy/religion: Christianity, Thervada Buddism (do not believe in Buddha reincarnation: most common in Thailand, Mahayana Buddhism (believe in reincarnation ie Dali Lama) and Avatars of Vishnu.

    We bought the "shuttle" ticket from the museum to the nearby BRT station and were surprised when a tuk-tuk arrived, thankfully, it did not enter the busy highway. We then caught a train to Asok, station and bought another ticket on the MRT to Wat Mangkon station in Chinatown. Chinatown was busy and we got a quick glimpse of life down the tight alleyways that were shops closing for the day. We walked to the Ratchawong Pier on the river river and caught the 1900h Blue Flag boat to our Phra Arthit pier then the walk home as before. So, it took 2.5 hours using transit to return home versus the 45 minutes by Grab in the morning and cost was about the same.

    Although we were sweaty and tired, we decided to sit down at a sidewalk café (KiN At Samsen) on Samsen 4 Alley near our hotel where Doug enjoyed 1 litre of Chang beer along with his noodle dish and Nancy surprisingly enjoyed the sweet spiciness of green curry with tofu and mushrooms.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSE Asia 2024Traveler
    The World Heritage Foundation and the USA are funding restoration of some of the buildings
    Decapitated Buddhas

    Wat Chai Wattanaram

    March 12, 2024 in Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    This was the first stop of our full day tour we booked in advance through GetYourGuide to the ancient city of Ayutthaya which was the capital for over 400 years until 1767. We were on a bus of 18 people and it took almost 1.5 hours to get to Ayutthaya. We saw rice paddies along the way. Our guide "Boye" was quite good and explained that "for no reason" Myanmar (Burma) bombarded Ayutthaya and set it on fire. The reason was actually that they pillaged the treasures there. The structures you see were covered with 3 inches of gold which was melted down and they destroyed all the Buddhas typically cutting their head off thinking they were filled with treasure. After this horrible event, the local people and treasure hunters completed the job, even tunneling under the chedis to get to the buried treasures of the cremated Royalty. As a result of this and aging many of the structures which are now down to only bricks are at a tilt and at risk of tumbling down.

    One of Ayutthaya’s most impressive temples, the Khmer style Chai Watthanaram is a Royal temple that was used by the King and other members of the Royal family. It was constructed in 1630 by King Prasat Thong to celebrate victory over the Khmer Empire which had dominated the Thais, as a means to gain Buddhist merit and as a memorial to his mother. Her ashes are enshrined in two square chedis flanking the ubosot on the East side of the temple.. It was one of the grandest monuments of the Ayutthaya Kingdom and built following the concepts of the Khmer mountain temples of Angkor to symbolize the universe in Buddhist and Hindu cosmology At the center of the Wat is a 35 meter tall Khmer style prang (a corncob shaped tower) standing on a raised brick platform. The prang represents Mount Meru, a mountain in Hindu and Buddhist cosmology which is the center of the universe surrounded by oceans. At each of the four cardinal directions a steep stairway leads up to the prang, the East one leading to an inner chamber, the cella or crypt where relics and precious artifacts were enshrined. The main platform supporting the central prang is surrounded by eight smaller chedis connected by covered galleries that enclose a courtyard. The 25 meter tall slender towers diminish in size towards the top. In their interior are niches, that each enshrined an image of the Buddha seated on a pedestal.

    As canon balls and canons were dug up during excavations, historians believe the temple may have been used as a fortress during the last war with Burma. The monastery was looted and largely destroyed by the Burmese armies in 1767 after which it was deserted.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSE Asia 2024Traveler
    Viharn of the Phra Mongkhon BophitViharn of the Phra Mongkhon BophitPhra Mongkhon Bohhit

    Wat Phra Si Sanphet

    Mar 12–14, 2024 in Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    Wat Phra Si Sanphet, “the temple of the Buddha Si Sanphet” was the most important temple in the Ayutthaya Kingdom. Being part of the Royal Palace complex, the very large monastery with dozens of structures was used by Ayutthaya Kings only; it was a Royal temple without resident monks.

    The history of the Wat Phra Si Sanphet spans several centuries. The first structures were built during the 14th century. During the reign of later Ayutthaya Kings structures were added until the temple reached the peak of its glory in the second half of the 17th century.

    In 1491 King Ramathibodi II built two large chedis to enshrine the ashes of his father and older brother. Several years later the King had a 50 meter long viharn built East of the chedis to enshrine a large gilded image of the Buddha named Phra Mongkhon Bophit. Another three decades later a third chedi was constructed to enshrine the ashes of King Ramathibodi II.

    The temple was largely destroyed by the Burmese armies in 1767, leaving only its three massive stupas standing.    Read more

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