Rob’s Rambles ‘23

Adventuring through Portugal and northern Spain. Starting in Madeira, onto Lisbon, Porto and the Portuguese Coastal Camino, then across northern Spain Read more

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Trip start
May 12, 2023
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Day 1
Friday, May 12, 2023
☀️ 21 °C
Altitude: 138 m
Portugal Ribeira das Cales 32.655991, -16.89775532°39’22” N 16°53’52” W
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Love Madeira m’dear
May 12, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
It’s a tough life here on Madeira, m’ dear!!! Love the Botanic Gardens, and inner city life, but the streets blow your mind!

#penguinfacts A group of penguins in the water is called a raft but on land they’re called a waddle!Read more
Traveler And in the blink of an eye, you’re in another world.
5/12/23Reply
TravelerWe have a great apartments, a bit of a slog up to theBot Gardens, but an easy return.
5/12/23Reply
Traveler Mosaics spring to life.
5/12/23Reply
Traveler❤️❤️👍👍
5/12/23Reply
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Day 2
Saturday, May 13, 2023 at 10:46 PM
🌙 15 °C
Altitude: 138 m
Portugal Ribeira das Cales 32.656227, -16.89755732°39’22” N 16°53’51” W
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Dancing in the streets of Funchal
May 13, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 15 °C
What a different day in downtown Funchal. I love the cobbled streets, the laneways, the orchids in the flower show, the photography gallery explaining the history of photography and Madeira, the churches, and the dancing for the flower festival.Read more
TravelerDid you chance upon the Flower Festival or was it part of your plan? Just looks so flamboyant and happy.
5/14/23Reply
Traveler This would have to be a true highlight of any dancer
5/14/23Reply
Traveler Dancer’s year.
5/14/23Reply
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Day 3
Sunday, May 14, 2023
⛅ 21 °C
Altitude: 138 m
Portugal Ribeira das Cales 32.656227, -16.8975632°39’22” N 16°53’51” W
4WD fun in Madiera’s wild west
May 14, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
4WD trip to the NW of Madeira with a bunch of Dutch and German travellers cramped into a tiny Jeep. The roads are ridiculously narrow, winding and steep. Paulo our drive was brilliant and loved it, I will make a little movie of our journey-Eyes Wide Shut. We hugged the coast visiting a small ‘Doc Martin’ like fishing village .Then it was to get a look down from one of the steepest cliff faces in the worldup and over the Madeira mountain range, visited a black sand beach, and the lava pools at Port Muniz and went off road through the mountains. Bananas and wine grape dominate, with a bit of sugar cane thrown in. #safariadvenrures23 #robsrambles23Read more
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Day 3
Sunday, May 14, 2023
⛅ 21 °C
Altitude: 138 m
Portugal Ribeira das Cales 32.656193, -16.89756232°39’22” N 16°53’51” W
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More 4WD fun on Madeira
May 14, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
Climbing from the coast you see some spectacular views. The mountains are rugged, wine grapes grow on narrow terraces and villages are perched in precarious positions. The narrow winding roads challenge any driverRead more
Traveler This looks like an entirely different world. Not Hawaii, not the Dolomites, not the Alps: lush then rugged.
5/15/23Reply
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Day 3
Sunday, May 14, 2023
⛅ 19 °C
Altitude: 13 m
Portugal Baixa da Girarda 32.866959, -17.16704832°52’1” N 17°10’1” W
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4 WD safari to Porto Moniz
May 14, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C
Over the Madeira mountains and back to the coast. Seawalls protect tiny harbours, it reminds me of Cinque Terra. The black volcanic sand doesn’t do it for me! The lava pools at Porto Monez in the NW are unique. Then it’s back to the mountains!Read more
Traveler What unbelievable body art these girls are wearing. But what will they do if they tire of it?
5/15/23Reply
Traveler Actually had to look twice to see properly. Certainly keeping someone in business.
5/15/23Reply
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Day 4
Monday, May 15, 2023
⛅ 19 °C
Altitude: 582 m
Portugal Fajã do Milho 32.742786, -16.82647332°44’34” N 16°49’35” W
Fruity fiesta
May 15, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C
There is so much fruit and a huge variety of flowers grown in Madeira.It is paradise!!!
TravelerSheer abundance. Is there a brisk trade?
5/17/23Reply
TravelerYes, and I had a great chat with Tanya at the end of our teak and with the chilli man in the market. But I liked the fruitarias the locals go to, the owners aren’t so pushy
5/17/23Reply
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Day 5
Tuesday, May 16, 2023
☁️ 15 °C
Altitude: 900 m
Portugal Ribeiro Frio 32.734906, -16.88613532°44’6” N 16°53’10” W
Walking the Lavadas
May 16, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
Walking the Levadas -irrigation channels- is what you do in Madeira. Construction started in the mid 15th century to bring water from the north to the farms and cities in the south. Today a network of 3100km crisscross the island and are also used for hydro. The walking paths are many and varied we did about 14km. It is easy walking but as you are high up the views are gorgeous,. Great to be walking with my sister Ro and brother-in-law Rod.Read more
TravelerAbsolutely majestic. Such once-in-a-lifetime views.
5/16/23Reply
TravelerHi, there are so many to choose from and vary in length and whether they are a circuit or A to B. We caught a local bus to the start and shared a taxi home. So really cheap. My arm is great. Thanks for your interest.
5/16/23Reply
TravelerHow is your arm?
5/16/23Reply
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Day 5
Tuesday, May 16, 2023
⛅ 20 °C
Altitude: 138 m
Portugal Ribeira das Cales 32.656082, -16.89759132°39’22” N 16°53’51” W
Monte Palace & Sacred Art
May 16, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
A day in Funchal. Loved the Museum of Sacred Art, as the background of the painting tells a story. Checked out Monte- a Disney Land of art, botany and fun.. flamingos, toboggan rides, peacocks and African sculptures!!Read more
TravelerDizzy with delights. You will see similar ‘tile stories’ in Porto’s main station, Porto Sao Bento, when you arrive.
5/16/23Reply
TravelerLooks like a very interesting place! Enjoy!
5/16/23Reply
TravelerIt is great, each new place is a feast for the senses, and I m definitely getting fitter. The boots are great too
5/19/23Reply
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Day 6
Wednesday, May 17, 2023
⛅ 19 °C
Altitude: 413 m
Portugal Ribeira do Cantinho 32.802353, -16.87389232°48’8” N 16°52’26” W
Santana
May 17, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C
Funchal to Santana-leaving the chaos of tourism and crossing the great divide to the quieter pace of the northern coastal town of Santana. A 90 minute bus ride ( 5 Euros) winding through misty mountiain passes and tiny villages brought us to the wetter side of Madeira. Santana is a rural town famous for its A frame thatched houses. I am not sure the locals love tourists. The soil here is deep and rich and crops include wheat, potatoes, flax, fruit, vegetables and corn. The farms are tiny and I saw little or no machinery. The coast is spectacular and I don’t think I could cope with the vertical descent. Got drenched on the way back to our gorgeous accom, wait for the pics.Read more
TravelerIt’s so picturesque, such ‘ooh’ and ‘aah’ countryside. The rain helps make it so.
5/18/23Reply
TravelerWe are definitely getting fitter. Amazing how the hilly walks are becoming easier! Just love the gardens
5/19/23Reply
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Day 6
Wednesday, May 17, 2023
⛅ 18 °C
Altitude: 413 m
Portugal Ribeira do Cantinho 32.80224, -16.87391632°48’8” N 16°52’26” W
Away from tourists in Santana
May 17, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
I took a wander around the back
streets and tiny farms. The volcanic soil and plenty of water are a formula for fantastic crops of beans, corn, spuds and cabbage! The coast is fantastic and I loved thatched houses which are more than a tourist attraction. The bumble bees were having a field day, no wonder when you see the flowers.Read more
TravelerOriginal A-frame houses. The slope of the roof a nod to the sheer cliffs perhaps.
5/18/23Reply
TravelerOr maybe rain! They are everywhere not just the tourist park! I love it here but there aren’t many young people left
5/19/23Reply
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Day 7
Thursday, May 18, 2023
☀️ 20 °C
Altitude: 312 m
Portugal Ponta de São Jorge 32.827438, -16.91002332°49’39” N 16°54’36” W
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Sao Jorge and Levada dei Rei
May 18, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C
Filipe, an extraordinary young man who trained as a civil engineer in Slovenia, but loves running the family guest house and taxi service drove us to Levada dei Rei, not far from Sao Jorge. I love the Levada walks, it’s like walking through a botanic gardens surrounded by mountains. There are so many eucalyptus and accacia, planted to grow quickly and stabilise the slopes. We ended at a little cafe and were entertained by a courting peacock!
The walk down to Sao Jorge thru rich farm land and fantastic gardens was a delight. We are all getting fitter! I headed to the coast but it was too far down. There is a real absence of young people in the community, so sad!Read more
Traveler Such a flirt!
5/19/23Reply
Traveler🙂🙂🙂🙂 chasing 4 peahens!!! Even did the shimmy
5/19/23Reply
Traveler Could you walk one of these in say five hours?
5/19/23Reply
TravelerYes, it is very easy walking free maps on AllTrails and GPS works well off line
5/19/23Reply
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Day 8
Friday, May 19, 2023 at 10:06 PM
☁️ 15 °C
Altitude: 420 m
Portugal Ribeira do Cantinho 32.802368, -16.87389632°48’9” N 16°52’26” W
Small pleasures on the track
May 19, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
Fishing the levadas! When you get a bit mindful there is so much to hear, see and experience!! I just tossed the cat in for fun and I think she wanted a fishy snack!!
TravelerTreasure your steps and days, Robin, as they are like no other.
5/19/23Reply
Traveler🙏🇵🇹🙏🇵🇹🙂
5/19/23Reply
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Day 8
Friday, May 19, 2023
☁️ 18 °C
Altitude: 420 m
Portugal Ribeira do Cantinho 32.802414, -16.87385232°48’9” N 16°52’26” W
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Walking in paradise
May 19, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
Madeira is a walker’s paradise. Today we did a 13 km walk to Levada do Caldeirao Verde, and oggled at the 100 m waterfall. Walking the levadas (aqueduct) you are on the contour so it is gentle on the knees, and the views are magnificent. But thank goodness for the handrails ‘cos sometimes the track is only 30cm wide and the falloff is hundreds of metres. There are fish in the levadas and quite a few walkers at times!!Read more
Traveler Heart-stopping. Is the path slippery?
5/19/23Reply
TravelerNot slippery, but you did have to watch your feet for roots and rocks
5/19/23Reply
Traveler That’s a welcome tunnel.
5/19/23Reply
TravelerYou needed a torch and some had little head room. The Richie Rd who Bukit these levadas, tunnels and pathways over 500 years were a special breed!!!
5/19/23Reply
TravelerRochiers… Levada builders!
5/19/23ReplyTranslate
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Day 9
Saturday, May 20, 2023
⛅ 20 °C
Altitude: 57 m
Portugal Madeira Airport Bus Station 32.693497, -16.77627932°41’37” N 16°46’35” W
Onto Lisboa
May 20, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
A weird sort of day, filling in time before flight to Lisbon. The wonderful Filipe drove Ro and Rod to the airport and dropped me off at Machico to fill in time before an evening flight. Local car enthusiast were competing in a hill climb in their hotted up cars. Surfing with no surf was a bit sad. Loved a children’s book reading, the kids were so engaged and I cafe sat and finished Scrublands. At the airport.. people take thur pups in board🐾🐾🐾❤️❤️🇵🇹🇵🇹🇵🇹
And the plane take-offs over the highway are must watch. Until a few years ago only military trained pilots were allowed to fly into/ out of Funchal airportRead more
TravelerWell it certainly looks like Madeira would be worth visiting. Thank you for sharing with us. Looking forward to the next chapters. Xx
5/20/23Reply
TravelerThanks Mags, Madeira gets a big👍 from me !Ro chose great places to stay and I loved walking the levadas. I certainly didn’t do the most challenging!!!
5/21/23Reply
TravelerGreat photos of the spectacular scenery. Looking forward to tales of your next adventure. Regards Dave
5/20/23Reply
Traveler👍👍👍
5/21/23Reply
TravelerThanks for sharing Madeira with me. It’s in my list. Shall be using your sister’s accommodation finds if I can.
5/21/23Reply
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Day 10
Sunday, May 21, 2023 at 7:44 AM
☁️ 15 °C
Altitude: 85 m
Portugal Graça 38.721615, -9.1249938°43’18” N 9°7’30” W
Lisboa and our secret hideaway
May 21, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
The flight to Lisboa was on time and we even got a peak of the eastern end of Madeira and a gorgeous sunset. ☺️Finding the luggage carousel was a challenge and finding our apartment was even more of a challenge. My first experience with a stressed Portuguese taxi driver. But the accommodation is wonderful, newly renovated and so comfy. Lisboa here we come. Well done Sister Ro👍👍👍Read more
TravelerWow Rob, your travels look amazing so far 😍😍😍😍
5/21/23Reply
TravelerEasy to get lost for a taxi driver, imagine how easily one wrong turn can mess with a tourist’s head.
5/21/23Reply
TravelerIt was his head I was worried about! He was a frustrated rally car driver 🙂🙂🙂
5/21/23Reply
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Day 10
Sunday, May 21, 2023
☁️ 22 °C
Altitude: 84 m
Portugal Graça 38.721559, -9.1248138°43’18” N 9°7’29” W
Lisboa- Fado
May 21, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C
An easy walk from our hideaway in Sao Vincente to The Fado Museum. Along the way I loved the graffiti. Fado, means Fate, and the melancholic singing is loosely captured by the Portuguese word saudade, or longing, symbolizing a feeling of loss (a permanent, irreparable loss and its consequent lifelong damage) is a part of Lisbon tradition. A wonderful form of music sung accompanied by guitars is performed in the bars and clubs all round the city. Celeste Rodrigues is one of the best and they tell her story in the Fado museum. Can’t wait to hear a show.Read more
TravelerEnjoy the show. An afternoon nap before perhaps.
5/21/23Reply
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Day 10
Sunday, May 21, 2023
☁️ 21 °C
Altitude: 68 m
Portugal Museu Calouste Gulbenkian 38.737808, -9.15352738°44’16” N 9°9’13” W
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Lisboa- Gulbenkian Collection
May 21, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C
Calouste Gulbenkian an oil magnate (1869-1955) was a passionate art collector, but with an eye only for the best. The displays cover a vast period and have a broad geographical spread. It’s best display I have ever seen. From Egyptian to impressionist, from ceramics to carpets, from furniture to jewellery. The gardens are beautiful and there is relaxed atmosphere.Read more
Traveler Such attention to detail. Love your favourites and I’d add the Ghirlandaio’s, ‘Portrait of a Young Woman’. And how about the museum itself! I was bewitched by the gift shop as well.
5/22/23Reply
TravelerCouldn’t agree more, I’ll add portrait of a young woman!
5/22/23Reply
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Day 10
Sunday, May 21, 2023
☁️ 22 °C
Altitude: 89 m
Portugal Graça 38.721523, -9.12496338°43’17” N 9°7’30” W
Lisboa- Azulejo, tile Museum
May 21, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C
Azulejo, or tiles, along with Fado are what makes Lisbon special. Housed in the Convent Madre de Deus built in 1509, the museum tells the story of tile production and its role in religious and secular life. I love tiles, the patterns, the colours and the craftsmanship. The first photo is of a 25 m panorama of Lisbon in the early 18th century before the 1755 earthquake wiped out most of the town.Read more
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Day 11
Monday, May 22, 2023 at 9:22 PM
☁️ 18 °C
Altitude: 85 m
Portugal Graça 38.721569, -9.12496238°43’18” N 9°7’30” W
Lisboa- hills, castles and tarts
May 22, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
Lisboa- it’s a hilly city but we have managed with the metro, buses and ‘shanks pony to navigate our way pretty well. There is always something to attract your attention, graffiti, murals, cafes, trams, castles, red tiled houses stacked upon each other, narrow alley ways, churches and cats! The history of invasion and the 1775 earthquake seem to dominate the life of this city where ruins date back to the Iron Age. Today we the Castello Sao Jorge, walked the Alfama, visted sardine stores Yes the humble sardine created wealth for the country and was exported all over Europe. A highlight wa a visit to the home of 1998 Nobel Laureate Author Jose Saramago. A prodigious novelist and card carrying communist.Read more
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Day 11
Monday, May 22, 2023
☁️ 23 °C
Altitude: 85 m
Portugal Graça 38.721542, -9.1249638°43’18” N 9°7’30” W
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Lisboa - from the street
May 22, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C
The history of Lisboa in cartoons. You can’t help being part of the tourist throng. The French, followed by Brazil are the biggest tourists, with Aussies a long way behind. I was fascinated by the Sardine in oil/ tuna/shrimp/ mackerel industry which has been a mainstay of the town for hundreds of years. Learned all about it at Casas des Bicos. Got into the tiles again, many carry Fado-like messages. And I justRead more
Traveler And Jack Sparrow thinks this a good place for a photo too.
5/22/23Reply
TravelerThat was why I took it!!! Well spotted!
5/23/23Reply
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Day 12
Tuesday, May 23, 2023
☁️ 26 °C
Altitude: 85 m
Portugal Graça 38.72153, -9.12506938°43’18” N 9°7’30” W
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Belem.
May 23, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C
When in Lisboa, celebrate with the best Portuguese tart, enjoy the Berado art collection at the Cultural Centre both in Belem and take a little trip to the other side of the river for a grilled fish dinner. The Monument of Discovery is a must.Read more
Traveler You found the sardines. Such small pleasures. I love mine.
5/24/23Reply
Traveler No cats napping there.
5/24/23Reply
Traveler Did you eat in the restaurant?
5/24/23Reply
TravelerNo just stood in the queue… love ‘em. Into sardine tapas too!!
5/24/23Reply
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Day 12
Tuesday, May 23, 2023
☁️ 26 °C
Altitude: 39 m
Portugal Igreja de Santo Estêvão 38.712566, -9.12768638°42’45” N 9°7’40” W
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Lisboa streets
May 23, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C
I just love the streets of Lisboa. It’s such a mix of elegance and reality. Old women sell nips of cherry brandy from their door front. Minimarts are everywhere. Life begins at 10pm in many districts. Graffiti with meaning is everywhere. The art, fashion and craft are leading edge but comfortable.Read more
Traveler My pick of the day.
5/24/23Reply
TravelerDefinitely 🇺🇦
5/25/23Reply
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Day 13
Wednesday, May 24, 2023 at 11:11 PM
🌙 20 °C
Altitude: 89 m
Portugal Graça 38.721523, -9.12491738°43’17” N 9°7’30” W
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Sintra nightmare
May 24, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 20 °C
Have you ever been on a tour where a guest has been left behind. That happened to us today. We waited for 90 mins in the bus, cos all her gear was there and left!!! ‘Not happy Jan’

The nightmare that is Sintra, Lisbon. Too many visitors, poor guiding. Disneyland on Steroids, and Sintra was once the royal palace of Portugal until 1908 when the monarchy was overthrown!
I am not into tours or crowds and this was a shocker!! Advice - give Sintra a miss… or get a better get a local guide for just a few people. The story is interesting. First pics - the chaos, more to come!Read more
TravelerOh well if that is the worst part of yr trip, it will still be pretty good I reckon!😂
5/24/23Reply
TravelerAgreed!
5/25/23Reply
TravelerIt is fantastic, but from tomorrow I am on my own. It’s been great to be with Ro and Rod.
5/25/23Reply
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Day 13
Wednesday, May 24, 2023 at 11:30 PM
🌙 20 °C
Altitude: 85 m
Portugal Graça 38.721619, -9.12500138°43’18” N 9°7’30” W
1 1
Sintra oppulence
May 24, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 20 °C
Sintra palace, Lisbon. The opulence of the palace is not reflective of Portuguese architecture. I wish we had time to walk in the beautiful gardens. and do a bit of hiking. I have been checking the news for our missing passenger but can’t find anything. 🤞🤞🤞. Talking of fellow travellers, the most interesting was Elgar, born in Latvia 80 years ago. Her family escaped as the Russians advanced in the mid ‘40s and lived in a displaced persons camp for 6 years before coming to Australia 🇦🇺. She says the Latvians are worried about Russian expansion. First Ukraine 🇺🇦 and then further.Read more
Traveler Too much sun on fair skin for some of these beauties.
5/25/23Reply
Traveler Neptune’s Gate: wouldn’t you have such a poise if you’d been forced to stand over the gate for all these years.
5/25/23Reply
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Day 14
Thursday, May 25, 2023 at 8:53 PM
🌙 21 °C
Altitude: 85 m
Portugal Graça 38.721607, -9.12487738°43’18” N 9°7’30” W
The Baixa- Chiado, Lisboa
May 25, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 21 °C
I love this city, especially the massive squares, the narrow lanes, the trams, the street life and the friendliness. I love the elegance of the art and the traditional crafts. The RC church seems all pervasive. Once a colonial power there are positive links with the former colonies. I had great chats with Solange from Burel wool processors and fashion house and Carolina whose family run a renowned guitar shop. But the bra house and break-dancer win today’s Portuguese tart.Read more
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