• Lauren Braithwaite
feb. – apr. 2015

Overland

Et 74-dags eventyr af Lauren Læs mere
  • Start på rejsen
    16. februar 2015
  • Singapore

    16. februar 2015, Singapore ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Having made a new friend on the plane, siyaam, who, coincidentally lives in a flat behind my hotel, i went out into the city with my 'lonely traveller' elephant selfie top on. Treated myself to a curry (i think today went pretty smoothly) and found a banana smoothie. Bingo. Time for trashy tv then bed i think.Læs mere

  • Little india, singapore

    17. februar 2015, Singapore ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    Committed the ultimate sin this morning... I went to starbucks for a coffee. I had to, there was no red coffee van at the end of the road, and this was the only option for a vanilla latte.

    Went to mustafa's bazaar. Tacky shit, more tacky shit and some useful tacky shit, the latter of which i bought. I did manage to replace my ailing eyeliner.

    After a couple of hours of retail therapy, I walked around the streets of little india and went to a hawker food centre. These places are a crazy myriad of smell, sound and sight. Follow the crowds for the most popular food or in my case, look for the best banana smoothie lookalike picture. I pointed to a banana lassi only to be told by the proprietor that they were 'out of banana'. I said 'ok thank you anyway' and started to move on only to be stopped by the other owner who said 'no, i go buy you a banana!'. 2 minutes later, i had an 'oh my gosh, that couldn't taste better' banana lassi.

    This evening, i am going to dinner with my friend from the plane and her husband. I have no smart shoes. Bugger. Best go shopping. Bye

    P.s. See the picture of the 'martin shuffle'. This is the singaporean sense of humour (yumour if you're kath) encouraging passengers to move along on train carriages. I'd love it if anyone could physicalise this move and send a video...
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  • Joo chiat road

    17. februar 2015, Singapore ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Ice cream to rival monumental. Thank you siyaam and zak for a great evening of laughs, food and shopping.
    Browhaus. Where brows go to ressurect...

  • Singapore - kuala lumpur

    19. februar 2015, Malaysia ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Big day today. Navigated my way across singapore with 25kg of luggage (half my body weight) to bus stop. First overland border crossing. Got through singapore immigration with no hiccups... Then when we got to the malaysian side, we were all rushed off the bus and told to grab our luggage. Got to the passport counter and no passport. Oh bugger. I found the information desk and they escorted me to a stairwell where two policemen were sitting at a table playing on their phones. After some lengthy conversation on a walkie talkie we established that my passport had fallen onto my seat and was being delivered imminently. In the mean time, policeman number 1 had asked how old i was, if i was married and where i lived. When i told him my age, he exclaimed that policeman number 2 was also the same age and that policeman number 2 was also single. The passport arrived just in time and i went on my way.
    6 hours later i arrived in KL.
    I rather fancied the rather garish multi-coloured panda print on the bus seats. They reclined to nearly flat which was rather nice.
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  • Kuala lumpur

    19. februar 2015, Malaysia ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    It's rather late... I have been dancing in the rain at the rooftop bar of the hotel. I had sheesha (rather lovely strawberry flavour) and chatted and danced. Earlier in the evening i added another 'ex-world's-tallest-building' to my collection; the exquisite petronas towers. They are stunning.Læs mere

  • KL

    20. februar 2015, Malaysia ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    After very little sleep I headed to breakfast and jumped on the coffee. A friendly fellow named victor started to chat to me whilst we ate and we ended up going to the Batu Caves together. The caves are a little crazy, full if Indians and chickens. The climb up to 'Dark Cave' was very steep and a bit of a bugger in the heat and humidity. After the caves I headed off on my own to Merdeka Square. This is the home of the Royal Selangor Club and the open grass area that takes up most of the square is where the British played cricket in colonial times. The name 'merdeka' comes the Malay for freedom which was chanted when the British flag was loweres for the last time in the square in 1957. I visited the Kuala Lumpur gallery which gave some history of the city and boasts a rather impressive scale model. Afterwards, feeling a little weary from all the walking, I headed over to the national textile museum for some lunch. The exhibits were very well presented and explained the various techniques and methods well. On to the central market (its amazing how well one can restrain oneself when one has to carry ones paraphernalia) followed by some batik painting. I just stumbled across a tiny gallery where you choose a pre-waxed picture and sit down with brushes and ink to create your picture. It was a very relaxing half hour.
    In the evening I found Victor again... By the way, in his own words, he is the 'first black dude to swim the english channel'... And we went to a hawker street and sat on the street with the rest of KL to celebrate chinese new year with satay - yum!
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  • George town

    20. februar 2015, Malaysia ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    Sitting in the cafe of Campbell House, dating from 1903, having a coffee and resting tired shoulders. Left KL at 7am on the bus and arrived at Butterworth at 11am. Saw the aftermath of what looked like a fatal car accident, and a couple of near misses with out bus. This bus was super luxury and i could recline straight back.
    At butterworth i had to get the ferry (feri in malay!) across to the island. This was an experience. I was one of two westerners in a sea of frantic malaysians.... It was packed. Qe queued, then got pushed and shoved through turnstiles to another holding area, then i was let through the disabled entrance (a 17kg backpack is a disability) to the ticket booth and then through to an even bigger waiting area. We were packed in like sardines. Then, a green lighy flashed and it was each man for himself - everyone shouted and started scuttling to the ferry. I just got taken with the flow of the crowd. There's no separate car and passenger section so you just stand around with the cars. I finally met up with the other felang (foreigner); an american from oregon, ex-navy and built like a ship. He was very interesting and we discovered a shared passion for kayaking. Once off i walked to my hotel, not too far, although by this time my
    shoulders were very sore and i was drenched....
    Hotel is great. It's in a heritage building and you enter it through a cafe... Perfect.
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  • Suffolk house

    20. februar 2015, Malaysia ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Suffolk house was built on a pepper estate owned by Captain Francis Light, founder of the British port settlement of Penang. It was built in 1804 by William Phillips, one of the early governers. Stamford Raffles visited in 1818 and this planted the seeds for the subsequent escapade in Singapore. Very low key mansion with a distinct British Empire, East India feel about it; verandas, columns, cream walls, timber window shutters, chandeliers... And one of the best high teas i have ever had.Læs mere

  • Penang hill and Kek Lok Si Temple

    21. februar 2015, Malaysia ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    Found THE BEST mocha this morning... Very happy.
    Found the bus stop and headed off on the 204 to Penang Hill. I was told great things about this hill at over 800m with a funicular taking yo to the top. However, the view from the top was not as spectacular as i had imagined as it was hazy, and it was rather disneyland-ish. And i hate disney. The sort of place where you can get your photo taken in front of a blue screen and buy it later.
    I then walked 20 minutes to the temple area. Most people seemed to be getting taxis but i like walking... If I hadn't I would have missed the sugar cane juice lady.
    The temple has to be one of the most exciting places I have ever been to. Built in 1890, it is the largest Buddhist Temple in Malaysia and it is huge! You start by navigating through a veritable warren of stalls, like a souk, past a turtle pond and into the temple complex qhixh in itself is a maze of shrines, temples, pagodas and more shops. The view from the main pagoda was great and then I took the little funicular up to a 36m tall bronze statue of Kuan Yin, goddess of mercy. 2 hours well spent even if I was extremely hot by the end of it. Back to town for a banana capri.
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  • Hat Yai - Bangkok

    22. februar 2015, Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    After a shaky start at Georgetown's disorganised bus station I had my Second border crossing of the trip - Malaysia to Thailand. It really was like stepping from country to another, from relative calm to chaos.
    Bus dropped me at Hat Yai where I booked my overnight train ticket - i managed to get the last sleeper sleep, phew. This gave me 5 hours to kill in Hat Yai city. I found it a pleasant place to wander; however, I have never seen so many army officials and soldiers patrolling the streets. There is a lot of fighting in Southern Thailand between the Malay muslims and the Thai buddhists. The Travellers here (emphasis on thr capital t) are hardcore.
    Onto the overnight train and it was super comfy. When we got on it looked like a normal daytime train but once we set off the carriage officer came round and transformed it into a moving hostel; seats folded out to lie flat, a mattress went on top, followed by bed sheets, pillow and a blanket. Finally, a curtain for privacy. Now to lay back and watch the Thai countryside fly past.
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  • Bangkok - Burma Embassy

    23. februar 2015, Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Arrived in Bangkok mid-morning and after a quick shower and change of clothes I got a taxi to the Myanmar (Burma) embassy. I got there at 11.50am and didn't leave until 2.40pm... There were loads of us sitting in a hot room dilligently waiting with our application forms and passports. When i finally made it up to the counter (I was the last for the day - they shut the door at 12pm) I opted for next day pick up as I couldn't stand to go back that afternoon. All part of the experience! Staying at the Shanghai Mansion hotel, a little bit of luxury.
    Last photo - building a coffin on the side of the road...
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  • Bangkok

    24. februar 2015, Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Another hot day in the capital. It's amazing how you meet people... Wandering down a market alleyway in chinatown I see another fellow traveller taking a photo of two hanging fish heads. I thought that would also make a good photo and stood beside Ally. We got chatting and discovered a shared interest in photography. We were also travelling in the same way - alone, no shared dorms and doing cultural things instead of clubbing. We decided to keep each other company for the morning; 5 tonne gold buddha, flower market, amulet market and even time for a cold drink in between. And having a ball working out the sometimes confounding water taxi system. It was so enjoyable. Short but sweet in every way.
    In the afternoon I returned to the bloody Myanmar embassy and after more queueing I was finally reunited with my passport. The room was full of insufferable backpackers; 'yah, so we're like 'doing' south east asia, just have no plans, like going with the flow'.
    Overnight train to Phitsanulok - lower berth again, score.
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  • Phitsanulok

    25. februar 2015, Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Overnight train went well although not much sleep. It arrived at Phitsanulok at 4.30am... I sat at the train station to wait for the left luggage to open. After an hour, the guard said I could leave my luggage and I was free to explore the town... In the pitch dark. I walked to the main temple, Wat Phra Si Ratana Mahathat and enjoyed watching early morning worshippers lit up by all the gold. Then went for a quick coffee and bun once everything was open and made my way to the Buddha casting workshop. This was very interesting; craftsmen were working on creating the casts ready for he bronze ceremony. It was here that I saw the only other foreigners... Over the road to the folk museum which was very informative and had lots of artefacts including musical instruments.
    Bus to sukhothai (a VERY old mercedes painted in bright colours) was a hour and a half and by the time I arrived I was very hot and tired. Hotel is beautiful though
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  • Sukhothai

    26. februar 2015, Thailand ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

    Lazy day. Went to new sukhothai in the morning on a cool bus to book a ticket for something special tomorrow night and to go to the post office. Not a very exciting town. Back to old sukhothai and hired my bike (2 days for $2) ready for sunrise in the morning. Took it for a quick spin to see what it was like...Læs mere

  • Wat Saphan Hin sunrise

    27. februar 2015, Thailand ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Left hotel on my bike at 5.30am and cycled alone, in utter darkness, with no lights, out of town. Missed the turning, asked a lady for directions and finally found the badly located signpost for the temple on the hill. Fortunately, two other eager tourists also arrived on their bikes so I was no longer alone. Steep walk up the hill for this...Læs mere

  • Sukhothai cycling

    28. februar 2015, Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Went on a cycling tour of the old city, first capital of Siem. Some stunning temples and buddha images. Spent a wonderful day talking about many a life matter with my new friend Serge who has got a great outlook on life. We cycled about 40kms and were all caked in a layer of sweat and dust when we finished.
    Massive market in town this evening; one road was completely shut off and turned into a long line of vibrant and colourful food stalls. Everything from big squids to noodles, panckaes to fruit smoothies. I picked up different things and tried a range of tastes.
    During the day we saw buddha in many different forms; reclining, meditating, walking... I like to think the middle picture is 'attitude buddha'.
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  • Mae Sot

    1. marts 2015, Thailand ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

    Left Sukhothai early this morning to get thr bus to Mae Sot, the town on the border of Thailand and Myanmar which I will be crossing in the morning. The journey was easy but the driver was a little throttle-heavy which was unnerving on the windy, mountainous roads we travelled along. When i arrived there was no onslaught of 'tuk-tuk ma'am' and instead I had to find some help to work out how to get to the hotel as it was a little far to walk. A kind man helped me but in the end decided to get me a motorbike taxi and negotiate 30 baht to the hotel (a dollar). Have you ever riden pillion on a motorbike with a 17kg backpack and a 7kg bag? I have, it takes balance, i can tell you...
    Mae Sot is a very interesting town; very few westerners here. The odd adventurous traveller but mostly NGO workers here for the Burmese refugee camps. It is so far removed from the tourist centred parts of Thailand and I have really seen the 'local' way of life here. The market was especially interesting, bustling and colourful. There were many aquatic beings, some dead, some alive; frogs, turtles, eels, fish... All the writing is in Thai and Burmese, very little English words.
    Later in the afternoon I went to a herbal sauna at the back of a temple near the monks living quarters. It was basically a brick and timber hut but it was a very good sauna. I was there with lots of locals who have probably never seen a felang in the steam.
    Tomorrow I will make the journey across the border and the tales will continue.
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  • Hpa-an

    2. marts 2015, Myanmar ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    'This is Burma, it is quite unlike any place you know about'. Rudyard Kipling couldn't have put it any better. A country who for years has been isoated from the Western world, the evidence of which lies in its complete lack of any western logos; no McDonald's, no samsung, no Shell, no Starbucks, no Sony... Nothing. Everything is local and you really feel like you're in a new world or at least a parallel world. The globalism weed has not taken over in this part of the world yet a few seeds have been sewn as told by the sprinkling of coca-cola company products in shops and restaurants.
    I crossed the Thailand-Myanmar border in the morning and was immediately approached by an English-speaking guy who asked where I was heading. He directed me through immigration, across to a money seller (at nearly 1000 kyat to the dollar, I was given wads of notes held together with elastic bands) and finally to a share taxi kiosk. Once I paid the fare to Hpa-an (4 hours for $13), I was directed to get into one of the vans and waited there for an hour until we had more passengers. Once more passengers arrived we moved to another van and were then on our way... 7 of us and the driver.
    After only 10 minutes we were in rural countyside, looming hills and green forests. The dirt road was in a bad way and soon we were driving on 4x4 terrain and even driving across rivers (see pics). Then the most interesting part; every 2 kms or so we were stopped by a soldier with a HUGE gun with the letters KNL on his breast. This stands for the 'Karen National Liberation' Army who are fighting for the Karen state to be an autonomous region. The turmoil in the area explains why the border crossing was only opened two years ago. The soldier would talk with the driver who immediately handed over money before the two engaged in heated discussion, finally ending in further money being passed over. This bribery is the foundation of Burmese culture. This happened about 10 times, one of which the foreigner (me) in the car was of particular interest and nearly cost the driver more.
    In the back seats of the van were three young lads from Yangon one of which spoke some English and could hold a conversation. At the lunch stop we talked about our lives and they were very friendly. The played their music in the car which included 'my heart will go on', justin beiber and Boyzone's back catalogue. We all sang along and they asked me to tell them what the songs were about as, in his own words, 'we can sing the words but we don't know what they mean'.
    In Hpa-an I hired a tuk-tuk to take me to the caves in the surrounding countryside. They were filled with buddhas and shrines and one had fantastic views. The ride in the tuk-tuk was rather uncomfortable due to the awful state of the pot-hole ridden roads. It was interesting, however, to watch all the farmers in their fields as the afternoon sun faded. That evening I ate at a traditional Burmese restaurant. The food was incredible and comes with 10 condiments and dipping sauces. For dessert they have 'jaggery' which is coconut and cane sugar.
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  • Kyaikto

    3. marts 2015, Myanmar ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    After a few days of solo travelling I found some friends who were on the bus to the 'Golden Rock' with me. A mexican, a yank, 2 germans, 2 brits and a belgian. We all stayed in the same characterful hotel (the staff were rather entertaining) which was right in the centre of town. To get up to Mt Kyaiktiyo 40 people pile into the back of what is essentially a giant flat bed ute with bench seats and head up the windy road to the sacred rock. The half hour journey up the hill was more entertaining than the destination; holding on for dear life as the truck sped around corners and accelerated on downhill straights so it could get enough momentum for the uphills. The atmosphere at the top is a spectacle in itself. Hundreds of pilgrims and tourists descending on the summit, many of whom set up camp near the rock for worship. The rock was a little smaller than I was expecting but the way it is precariously balancing on the side of the mountain is rather impressive. Only men are able to touch it, women simply 'can't touch this'. Legend states that the boulder maintains its balance due to a precisely placed Buddha hair in the stupa. The journey down was even more thrilling as we were at the front (so could only see the back of the cab and not where we were going) and it was getting dark. Dinner was at a very authentic local restaurant where the bill for 6 people including drinks came to $17. I had green tea leaf salad which is a Burmese speciality.Læs mere

  • Yangon (Rangoon)

    4. marts 2015, Myanmar ⋅ ☀️ 36 °C

    Crazy place. Overwhelming on the senses. Yet full of travelling gems.
    Mesmerising markets, food stalls everywhere and traffic you just cannot imagine. The east end of downtown is spoilt for colonial buildings including The Strand hotel (where I tried croissant flavoured ice cream) and City Hall. Some buildings are very run down but there is a trust set up to try and have them listed. Shwedagon Paya is the main event when visiting Yangon; it is quite spectacular. It is a 325ft tall zedi (stupa) with 27 metric tons of gold leaf. The main terrace is a forest of pavillions, temples and more stupas with monks and tourists mingling. I arrived around 5pm and walked round watching the colours and the hues of the temples morph as the sun went down.
    Size is obviously important in the ex-capital. At Chaukhtatgyi Paya, the reclining buddha stretches out for 65m, his crown encrusted with diamonds.
    I found Yangon tiring and at times irritating. It is hellishly hot and the sea of car and truck exhausts justs adds to the heat. Crossing the road is a major event and the footpaths are either covered in stalls or nonexistent. However, if you can cool off with a foot reflexology session (as I did) all of this can be forgotten... Almost.
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  • Bagan

    7. marts 2015, Myanmar ⋅ 🌫 25 °C

    More temples! And lots of them, over 4000, scattered randomly over vast plains of land. I explored some of the temples by bicycle on the first day (many have huge gold buddhas and painted reliefs that are nearly 1000 years old) which was very hot, but the best way to see them is by.... Hot air balloon. What a beautiful experience. Floating weightlessly over the world (no bumps at all) was rather surreal but I think the part I enjoyed the most was watching the entire process of getting the balloons going. And getting them back on the ground too which involves a whole crew jumping onto the basket to pull it down. The champagne breakfast after was pretty good too....
    I found Bagan quite touristic, which detracts from the local life there. The restaurant strip will one day resemble Pub Street in Siem Reap I fear... But for now it still has retained its old world charm, especially early in the morning when the locals are busy starting their day.
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  • Pyin Oo Lwin

    9. marts 2015, Myanmar ⋅ 🌬 10 °C

    As Myanmar heads towards its rainy season, the mercury slowly rises... And so I went up too, heading to the colonial hill station of Pyin Oo Lwin. I stayed at an old house which was the base for British intelligence just after the second world war. Lots of interesting buildings, garden nurseries and a lake to look at.
    I booked a tour guide, Mr Osama, who took me on one of the most genuine and relaxed tours I think I have ever been on. Riding pillion on his motorbike, he took me out of the town and into the hills of the Shan state. We first stopped at his friend's house (picture below) where we had tea, coffee and bananas with the grandmother. I was showed round the house which was very cosy and humble. We then continued down the road, stopping to look and talk about the farming and veg/fruit grown in the area. We went to a quiet hilltop temple where novices were returning with the morning alms and then on to the local primary school. He was very knowledgeable and I learnt so much about daily life. We arrived at the main Shan village and I had a walk whilst Osama shopped for lunch. We returned to his friend's house and while he cooked, the daughter, Ma Let Let Phyo, took me for a walk round the farm. We then went back to the house and she showed me her school books and young kittens, which we played with. Lunch was a feast of ginger salad, tea leaf salad, spicy tofu and noodle soup. I left very relaxed.
    The afternoon was spent with Morgan and Simon, two travellers I met at the post office. We went to the Shan market then relaxed at a Burmese beer station (where M and I got lots of unwelcome attention) before enjoying dinner at a local Chinese. Lovely day.
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