Big Adventure

April - September 2024
  • Réka Fehér
  • Alex McKenzie
Juhu, we are embarking on our 6 months of travel via North America and South East Asia. Bobo will manage our residence in Berlin, while we are away. Baca lagi
  • Réka Fehér
  • Alex McKenzie

Senarai negara

Kategori
Sekeliling dunia, Mengembara, Pantai, Bas, Budaya, Keretapi, Percutian, Fauna
  • 35.6rbkilometer perjalanan
Cara pengangkutan
  • Penerbangan-kilometer
  • Berjalan-kilometer
  • Pendakian-kilometer
  • Basikal-kilometer
  • Motosikal-kilometer
  • Tuk Tuk-kilometer
  • Kereta-kilometer
  • Keretapi-kilometer
  • Bas-kilometer
  • Camper-kilometer
  • Karavan-kilometer
  • 4x4-kilometer
  • Berenang-kilometer
  • Mendayung-kilometer
  • Motobot-kilometer
  • Berlayar-kilometer
  • Rumah bot-kilometer
  • Feri-kilometer
  • Kapal pesiar-kilometer
  • Kuda-kilometer
  • Bermain ski-kilometer
  • Tumpang-kilometer
  • Cable car-kilometer
  • Helikopter-kilometer
  • Kaki Ayam-kilometer
  • 32footprint
  • 153hari
  • 262gambar
  • 29suka
  • Boston was fun! Would take a 10-hour layover there again
    Me in BostonMust. Trust. The app.Sunrise? Sunset? Who knows at this pointReka has well and truly lost itThe view from the taxi: maybe all this was worth it

    100 grim hours travelling to Indonesia

    5–6 Jun 2024, Qatar ⋅ ☀️ 40 °C

    Well, it was a fun and illuminating 2 months in North America, but now the real adventure (arguably) began! And however things would turn out when we arrived, the journey was most definitely an adventure.

    The plan: fly from Raleigh-Durham to New York, then 4 hours later fly to Abu Dhabi, then 8 hours later take a flight to Jakarta, then (after a night in a hotel) take our last flight to Silangit, a tiny airport in North Sumatra, where we would take a 90-minute taxi to the port of Parapat, and then finally a small ferry would take us directly to our guesthouse on Samosir Island. Daunted, but ready, we set off to the airport.

    Snag #1: after checking in nice and early for our flight, we get a notification that it's delayed by 3 hours, meaning we'll probably miss our transfer. A few hours, 2 chaotic calls to customer service and multiple chats with the bored airport staff later, we managed to get our flights rebooked for the next day. New plan: fly to Boston, 10 hours (!) later fly to Doha, 8 hours later onward to Jakarta.

    Ok. Fine. The airport provided hotel room is acceptable, and one more uneasy sleep later we're back at the airport, and we make it to Boston. Which, by the way, is lovely! I'm so glad we decided to explore the city rather than wait in the airport. We had some delicious food in Chinatown, wandered around some historic sites and even had time for a quick beer before heading back to the airport for our flight to Doha.

    Since our trip would be travelling across 11 time zones, to mitigate jet lag we were following the instructions of the Timeshifter app which told us when to sleep, wake up and drink coffee. We knew it's schedule would be punishing, but better than the alternative. So on our red-eye flight to Doha, we tried our best not to sleep.

    Arriving in Doha, we were by now irritable and tired, but we knew we had many, many hours of our trip left. For the first time in our lives, we decided to book ourselves into a business lounge - we reasoned that after subtracting the cost of the meals, it's not _that_ expensive, and we would need some rest for what is coming. Of course, rest only meant sleep if the app said we could sleep. Must. Trust. The app.

    Well, rest turned out to be only somewhat restful, although the food was excellent (and it was so good to have access to showers). And here we came to snag #2: sitting at the gate waiting for our flight to begin boarding, it turned out there was a problem with the plane, which (after some chaos and miscommunication) shook out to an extra 4-hour delay. Fine. We are fine.

    EVENTUALLY, we made it onto our plane, and an eternity later arrived in Jakarta. Delirious from tiredness and thoroughly ready not to be doing this anymore, we wandered around looking for the airport hotel Anara. Where is Anara? We only see signs for Hotel Bandara. Asking passersby only returned baffled looks. It took us far too long to realise that Hotel Bandara is just the Indonesian for "airport hotel", and the signs were actually for us. Fine. No problem. We can do this.

    So the last day of our journey arrived, us feeling somewhat more fresh. Our flight to Silangit was only an hour delayed (not bad!), but when we arrived we felt a little dodgy - maybe something we ate, or maybe the jetlag was beginning to sink its teeth in. A swarm of taxi drivers came to ask us where we are from and where we're going, but to the most insistent one at the front of the pack I firmly said "no thank you, we're not interested" and we went to sit down and gather our thoughts.

    A tea and a short rest later, we were ready to proceed. Returning to the taxi stand, we found only a single taxi driver left - the one I'd not-so-kindly told to go away. Sheepishly, we loaded our luggage into his car.

    The next leg was relatively smooth: the car drive was beautiful and arrived into the port of Parapat, and an hour or so later our boat left the harbour for TukTuk. Travelling across Lake Toba at sunset was rather magical.

    We arrived at TukTuk, and after a fairly gruelling 45-minute walk carrying our suitcase over a bumpy stony track, we finally, finally arrived at our guesthouse. We made it!! I am never doing that again.

    -Alex
    Baca lagi

  • The view of lake toba from Tuk Tuk
    Surprise restaurant cat!This is an important historical site for the Batak peopleEfrata waterfallLush jungleAt the start of our bike ride (that's why we're not covered in sweat)Possibly the best view I've ever had for a coffeeA lake...on an island...on a lake...on an islandNot sure what was wrong with itIn the throes of food poisoningAlex and the bandA beautiful Batak houseGetting a Becak rideOur lovely tour guide Adele and her dog

    Lush jungle & deadly food in Tuktuk

    7–28 Jun 2024, Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Our adventure in Tuk Tuk started particularly inauspiciously, with dreadful food poisoning, exhaustion, and other delightful reasons to stay in bed.

    Once feeling better, however, we began really enjoying Tuk Tuk, a little village on the volcanic island of Samosir. Samosir is surrounded by the Lake Toba, which provides breathtaking views wherever you are in the village. We were glad to be able to relax and take our time.

    Everything grows everywhere here! On the side of the road, you can find wild mango, pineapple, guava, coconut, papaya, and lots more. We developed a ritual of going once daily to our favourite fruit stand, where I would get a juice (usually something with passion fruit) and Reka would get a coconut water, which the owner would prepare using a machete.

    One day, we rented bicycles, and after getting a lift up a few hills (and down some for good measure), we rode back through some absolutely stunning scenery. Check out the picture with the coffee cup!

    Staying for 3 weeks meant we were able to get to know a few of the locals, which was really special and made us feel like a part of this little community. I even played keys with the house band at Roy's Pub! I know it's a cliche, but people are very friendly here - always saying hello to us, giving us big smiles. We were stopped a couple of times by visiting groups of schoolchildren eager to practice their English, who insisted we follow them on Instagram after our charming chats.

    Tuktuk was a booming destination for backpackers in the 90s, and it has visibly faded somewhat - there are a lot of empty restaurants and guesthouses, which we found sad. It also has the same problem as the rest of Indonesia - rubbish everywhere. Nowhere is perfect!

    As well as lazing around in Tuktuk itself, we went on several days trips to explore other parts of the island, and areas immediately outside it on the larger island of Sumatra. The Efrata waterfall was a particular highlight.

    All in all, despite some dodgy stomachs (a problem that is by no means over when we leave Tuktuk), we really loved it here. A fitting start to our 2 months in this beautiful country!

    -Alex
    Baca lagi

  • Ecovillage Silimalombu

    28 Jun–8 Jul 2024, Indonesia ⋅ 🌩️ 26 °C

    This was such a beautiful place! The "ecovillage" is a farm, which grows all the food that guests eat, as well as producing mango wine (very tasty) and various other products from cosmetics to sponges. Reka and I, wanting the full experience, volunteered to grind the bark of a cinnamon tree into powder form, a process which involves 2 spice grinders and many hours of sieving and managing heat, wearing face masks to avoid inhaling cinnamon dust. At the end, our clothes were covered in a thick layer of cinnamon. At the end, Selvie (the manager) gave us some cinnamon liqueur as thanks - it didn't last very long...

    As well as all the regular farm animals (mostly puppies and chickens), the farm had a special guest: George the macaque. He was rescued as a roughly 3-day-old baby from certain death by the owners of the eco farm, who have since been raising him themselves. I'm not sure I've ever met something so cute before! George really bonded with me, and we spent a lot of time together, playing and cuddling. I miss him!

    -Alex
    Baca lagi

  • Croc spotting in Singkil

    8–10 Jul 2024, Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    We briefly stopped off in Singkil, on the west coast of Sumatra, before heading off to an island. While we were staying there, we took a tour of the swamps, led by an expert in crocodiles. There were many times when he saw the croc but it was too camouflaged for us to see :( but hopefully you can spot one in these pics! Also a monitor lizard!

    -Alex
    Baca lagi

  • Palambak: literal paradise

    10–19 Jul 2024, Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Palambak is a tiny island off the west coast of Sumatra where we spent a week and a half. I think the pictures mostly speak for themselves.

    Not all was perfect though: being such a tiny island, there was only one place to eat, and the food mostly didn't agree with me, so I spent an unfortunate amount of time sick :( But other than that, this was a really special stay.

    -Alex
    Baca lagi

  • Bukit Lawang: apes everywhere!

    20–28 Jul 2024, Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Bukit Lawang is a small, touristy village right in the middle of the jungle. I know I said that Tuktuk is also in the middle of the jungle, but this one is _really_ in the middle of the jungle. Check out those macaques (like grown up Georges) just chilling on the power lines! I spent several mornings just watching the monkeys while drinking my coffee.

    Of course the main point of coming to Bukit Lawang is to enter the wilds, which we did a couple of times, guided of course by expert locals. The national park right next to Bukit Lawang village is unfortunately quite overcrowded, so while we saw orangutans there (wow!!) they were semi-wild, and the fact they were willing to come so close to the massed humans was not a good sign. :(

    On our next trek, which included an overnight camp, we again saw orangutans but from a much greater distance, as wild orangutans are (sensibly) rather wary of humans. Check out that amazing cave we saw!

    We also met some really lovely people here, including Andrea, who runs the guesthouse we stayed at (Green Hill) and also runs a library for local children. We also met a really cool American family who are currently living & working at an NGO in Kurdish Iraq.

    -Alex
    Baca lagi

  • Batu Katak: a more remote jungle

    28 Jul–1 Ogo 2024, Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    Batu Katak, our next stay, was similar to Bukit Lawang, only more remote and less overrun with tourists. We had some trouble finding our guesthouse, after being dropped off on the wrong side of the river, but our hosts were very kind and came to find us.

    First and foremost: look at that cute family of cats! They were living at the guesthouse with us. The owner is a real cat person, so there were plenty of cats wandering around, including a heavily pregnant one who really liked hanging out in our room. One night she was meowing a lot and I was convinced she was going to give birth (she didn't).

    We saw the world-famous corpse flower here, which only blooms for a few days so we were really lucky that our guides had found it. Look how huge it is!

    We also went for a night-time trek, which was worth it because we saw a slow loris in one of the trees. It was too dark to get a good picture, but I remember! Also we saw this creepy thing (see the pic).

    -Alex
    Baca lagi

  • Reka and her tattoo

    Kuala Lumpur: best food of the trip

    2–12 Ogo 2024, Malaysia ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    On to Malaysia, where we met up with our friends we'd met at the Ecovillage in Lake Toba who convinced us to add a Malaysian stop to our itinerary. And we were glad we did! Honestly, Kuala Lumpur is up there (for me) as one of the most consistently excellent food experiences in the world. We ate so much good food! Malaysia has a great mix of Malay, Chinese and South Indian people, all contributing to its unique food culture.

    We visited the Batu Caves, the site of an important Hindu shrine, where (again) the monkeys ran the show.

    -Alex
    Baca lagi

  • Stopover in Hat Yai

    12–15 Ogo 2024, Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    "You're spending 3 nights in...Hat Yai?" our Malaysian friends asked, incredulously, when we told them of our plans. Hat Yai, of all places? There's nothing to do there!

    Our impression was: a) we are quite happy to do nothing, and b) in any case, there's plenty to do. For example, visiting one of the several temples in the area. I've included a couple of pictures of one of the more interesting temples, made mostly of steel, which I visited while it was pouring with rain.

    We also found this cool outdoor exhibition consisting of pictures of locals. Overall we had a nice time here as a not-so-brief stopover.

    -Alex
    Baca lagi

  • Trang

    15–19 Ogo 2024, Thailand ⋅ 🌙 28 °C

    After a long coach which took 2 hours longer than expected for no apparent reason, we arrived in Trang. Now I'd be lying if I said this was a beautiful city, but I really enjoyed my time here, possibly the most out of anywhere in Thailand. Firstly (and let's face it, most importantly), the food was really good, especially for vegetarians like me! I'd struggled a bit in Hat Yai, so seeing that there were lots of places to eat was a real blessing.

    We particularly enjoyed one vegan restaurant where the owner, upon hearing that we were in the city for a few days (during off season, I gather it's not too common), took out a piece of paper and wrote us out an entire day's itinerary, which we followed the next day - it was a great day out!

    Another place we really enjoyed was the bookshop, Phan Ma Ba, which (maybe you're sensing a theme by now) was packed full of cats. We spent a whole afternoon cuddling the cats, drinking coffee, and reading books. Bliss!

    -Alex
    Baca lagi