Big Adventure

April - May 2024
Juhu, we are embarking on our 6 months of travel via North America and South East Asia. Bobo will manage our residence in Berlin, while we are away. Read more
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  • Rathaus Schöneberg

    April 1 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Hellooooo everyone!

    Thanks for popping by ❤️ we will do our best to regularly update this blog!

    In less than 5 hours we are heading to the fabulous BER airport to board our plane to Paris for a super exciting layover of 6.5 hours 😅. Our first actual stop is Cancun (tacky, I know ☺️).

    Bobo senses that something is up but for now she enjoys our company.

    Thanks for all the messages of love and the good wishes! Happy Jesus Zombie day to you all 🧟!

    Alex and Reks
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  • Day 1

    Charles de Gaulle International Airport

    April 2 in France ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

    Hi there ! We woke up at the ungodly hour of 2 AM to head to the airport. Bobo stood at the bathroom window and we felt a bit guilty leaving her 🥹💔 but we know that she will be in good hands with Sarah and Joanna. The journey went smooth, the bus actually arrived! I was a bit nervous, as there have been many strikes lately - but we were lucky this time ☺️!The flight to Paris went super well, despite the chaos at the check-in with idiots not knowing which lanes to use. But, we managed it in the end.
    Now we are desperately trying to stay awake during our layover in Paris (CDG). Terminal 2E is very disappointing. There are limited food vendors (no restaurants, just an Exki and Pret) and some hideous plastic meal deals at Relay. The shops here cater only for millionaires - you can buy Chanel, Gucci, Burberry, Hermes, Cartier, Hennesy branded products. The glamour and glitz attracted even us but the price tags left us horrified - we saw a male sweater from Hermes for 5.500 EUR 😯😯😯😯and a bandana for 350 EUR. Obviously, the shopkeepers found our existence in this fathomable luxury an oddity and thought we would steal or break something at any minute. So we opted to leave the fancy establishment before knocking anything over with our backpacks😂😂😂. So, if you are a fancy-pants, this is the right place for you. Otherwise the airport looks like a space ship lined with a 90ies burgundy office carpet. Definitely missable 😄.

    We are using the timeshifter app to help us adjust to the new timezone - and it is so hard to keep the recommended schedule. After filling out a short survery, and your flight details - timesifter creates a plan for you, incl. when to avoid light, drink coffee or go for a nap. We used it back then for Colombia as we found it very helpful.

    we are sooooo tired. Thanks for reading 🌈♥️.
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  • Day 1–4

    Cancun, Mexico

    April 2 in Mexico ⋅ 🌬 30 °C

    After a long journey leaving us tired, confused and irritable, we arrived in Cancun on Tuesday. We've taken a few days to chill out, smooth off the roughest edges of jet lag, and get ready for Mexico City and meeting our friends.

    On day 1, after a beautiful afternoon spent at the beach, we jumped on a bus back to downtown, which quickly became ram-packed. We exchanged nervous glances and wondered how we would squeeze past when our stop arrived.

    25 minutes later: "okay Reka, let's get off here".
    "I can't".

    After the second stop we failed to get off at, I helpfully suggested that she "push a bit more". "I don't think you understand the laws of physics" came the hissed reply. The distance between stops was increasing, and (absurdly) we were still on the bus.

    Finally, somewhere in the outskirts of the city we managed to exit the bus, feeling pretty chastened, and took a taxi back to our airbnb. We took on the public transport system and lost.

    Anyway other than that it's been really lovely, we've eaten & drunk very well, and we're all fueled up for our next stop!
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  • Day 1–4

    Nightwalks in Cancun

    April 2 in Mexico ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

    Heyaaaa! I agree with most what Alex said in the previous post. I really liked Cancun, because it was so random/ contradictory. On the one hand, you have the glitzy part, called Hotel Zone which is lined with enormous luxury resorts, carefully manicured lawns and 🌴 trees along the driveway. The hotels are built on a super narrow sand strip (from above, it resembles a long pier). The city of Cancun and the hotel zone are separated by a lagune/ swamp area with turqouse blue water and crocodiles. Many colorful fishing boats are parked inside the lagoon. The hotel zone has fancy fashion shops strip clubs, casinos and lobster restaurants! We obviously didn't stay in there, we just came for a day to gawk at the oppulence and see Playa Delfines🐬. The beaches are amazing and FREE 🎊🎊 ( they don't even charge you for umbrellas or benches) and it has a super relaxed vibe. I saw the most beautiful green and clear water ever! Jumping into the waves was lots of fun ❤️! There mostly locals enjoying the beach, it felt nice to experience something mundane. I spent many minutes just watching the birds in the sky while Alex was reading his new book 😌.

    We opted to stay in the downtown area cause it was cheaper and that's where Mexicans live. Our house was nice and safe, but poirly maintained and quite dirty. But it qas ok for 4 days, Alex prefwrs these rustic type places anyway. 2 lovely cats were our hosts and 3 Mexican ladies lived full time in the air bnb, which was nice! This side of Cancun is pretty industrial looking - lots of construction sites, factories and endless roundabouts connect the city and its residents. The traffic is sometimes improvised, it's a bit challenging to cross the road but you can quickly get the hang of it. The downtown area is somewhat small, has a couple of colonial buildings and lots of cool graffiti, placed in the middle of residential areas or on abandoned restaurants. You see gated communities with beautiful gardens and well kept houses with cute dogs and kitties. Music is beaming from everywhere - from taco stands to supermarkets and petrol stations. We heard everything from Beegees to K-Pop and Mexican alternative rock.

    We also noticed the ruins of former buildings, abandoned shops and lots of closed shutters. The reality is that the downtown area can't compete with the services in the hotel zone. Rich tourists stay in their resort and hardly ever venture downtown. Although the center is full of hostels and backpackers, these guys don't bring in enough money to support the local shops/ restaurants. Many have been hit bei COVID so hard that they couldn't reopen and the building is left locked up, cacti and other weeds taking over. It's quite dramatic and sad but then you see that the main square ia being renovated and people still gather to spend time with friends and families. That is hopeful ☺️.

    we enjoyed the food - it was colorful and the market was also super ♥️. There is so much fruit for us to try! Today, we bought pineapple and melon- they tasted super nice and were not as sweet as at home.
    Our Spanish is just as shit as it was 4 years ago but we are trying.

    oh yeah, we did get scammed - on the beach a guy was selling coconut water - I made the mistake to take it into my hand without asking for the price first - and than he quoted 150 mexican pesos for it - which is like 7 EUR! We paid the rip-off and the coconut had like 3 sips of water in it. It was lukewarm on top of that😂. I paid double than for a litre back in Berlin 😂😂😂😂 lol. Not having a machete or a hammer at our air bnb, we could also not eat the rest of the coconut 😂. So we threw it out.

    Today we were overcharged for guacamole but it was vwey good so we didn't mind. I will learn the numbers in the upcoming days.
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  • Day 4–7

    Teaming up in Mexico City

    April 5 in Mexico ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    On to Mexico City! Here we met up with our friends Albert and Orsi, who will be travelling with us for the next 10 days or so.

    Given we only had 2 1/2 days in Mexico City, we decided to make the most of it - though of course we only scratched the surface of this bewilderingly huge city. Leaving our Airbnb in the mornings, we found ourselves in the middle of the leafy, bougie Roma district. I was struck by how green the city is: every street is lined with trees; every cafe, bar or restaurant has vines or plants in the corners. I think this contributed to the light, airy feeling, despite the constant roar of cars.

    At the museum of anthropology we learned about the many complex pre-hispanic civilizations in Mexico, and at the museum of modern art we enjoyed the works of Frida Kahlo and Abraham Angel. We challenged ourselves to sit and stare at one painting (?) for 20 minutes, a fun experience I'd like to repeat. These 2 museums are beautiful works of architecture, full of light, greenery and impressive flourishes.

    We ate and drank our fill - Agua Fresca (flavoured water) from street stalls, tacos, chilaquiles, quesadillas, mezcal margaritas, gorditas...we probably ate a little too much, but it's hard to resist!

    Oh, and we saw a (partial) solar eclipse, and a bonkers fun Lucha Libre show!

    Now we're on our way to Puebla, which at 1.7 million people is a lot smaller than the 20 million metropolis of Mexico City.
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  • Day 7–12

    Pyramids, Pulque & Mole Poblano

    April 8 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    On to Puebla! Though it's not quite as famous a tourist destination as Oaxaca or Mexico City, I'm really glad we spent 5 days here. Puebla is a really beautiful city - it was built by the Spanish colonialists in the 16th century, and was the site of lots of important historical events.

    We learned a lot about the history of Puebla through several museums, but the most impressive place was probably the pyramid in nearby Cholula. While we were there, we met up with Albert's cousin and some friends to try Pulque, a very tasty drink made from fermented agave. For good Pulque, the agave plant has to grow for 30 years! After enjoying some food, Pulque and Mezcal, we had a really beautiful jam session.

    Although I am vegetarian, I decided to give myself a single "cheat" meal and I treated myself to the local speciality Mole Poblano, or chicken breast covered in a chilli-choclate sauce. So delicious!

    A highlight of our Puebla trip for me was meeting Albert and Orsi's Mexican friends - not only did they give us some great tips, but they were great fun and all around lovely people.
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  • Day 12–16

    Oaxaca: Street art, Mezcal and Mountains

    April 13 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    After a 5 hour bus ride, we finally got to our next destination. On the way we saw cactus forests!!!! 🌵😁🌵🌵Oaxaca de Juarez deserves every praise it gets: it's colorful, flavourful, spicy and beams with art and indigenous spirit. Since it lately got a lot of attention from media and travelbloggers, we encountered here the highest number of western tourists - who shape the atmosphere and the local economy: you see colorful colonial buildings, many fancy restaurants, art galleries and decor shops praising handmade artifacts - it looks original but I can't help finding it a bit staged - it seems like walking in Berlin, Friedrichshain. Made pretty for good willing, concious hipster travellers willing to pay thrice the price for anything ,,authentic".

    But what I find good on the other hand, is, that the markets, the zocalo (main square) and the dance square still belongs to the locals: there is a huge abundance of street food around the markets, open air dance and sport rehearsals in the main square, kitchie pop music, artifacts and ice cream sold all around the zocalo for Oaxacans.

    Regarding street food - we had one bad experience ( the food was just old and tasted of nothing - but we didn't get sick - as Albert warned us). I think you can find very good stands if you do your research and ask locals - I personally gave it another chance and had the famous beef pozole soup at @LaChefinita , a street food stall at a busy road intersection. It was busy, full of kids, parents and people eating away with enjoyment.

    Our apartment had the most beautiful view towards the mountains, the rooftop terrace was magnificent, especially at night! It was nice to share the ride to Oaxaca with our friends, Orsi and Albert. We went for a very hot sightseeing of the Monte Alban Archeological Area - an ancient zapotec city located on a high mountain - from where you could see not only Oaxaca, but the entire valley - standing on top of the Pyramid was an allemcompassing, magical feeling. Too bad we didn't hire a guide, to understand the place a tiny bit better. (Alex edit: at the top of the pyramids we were treated to a beautiful symphony from the cicadas!)

    Btw, Tequila doesn't exist here - only Mezcal, which is much more flavourful - however, still an aquired taste. We had soooo many mezcalitas but still never got drunk from them - except when it was in the middle of the day. That happened after visiting Monte Alban which left us slightly drunk and sunburned.

    Oaxacan food is very spicy, and full of flavour - I especially loved the worm salt - a mix of dried and toasted agave worms, salt and chilli. They used it for spicing drinks, salads and fruit.

    All the street art was amazing, all in all, we had a great time. Thank you all ♥️💐🌵!
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  • Day 16–19

    Beach chilling in Puerto Escondido

    April 17 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Our last stop as a group, Puerto Escondido, is a little (pop 30,000) seaside town, popular with surfers and hippies. The heat and humidity here was really intense: in the middle of the day it was hard to do much other than lie in bed with the fans and AC on!

    But what a beach! Our local, barely a 5 minute walk, was barely ever full, with soft white sand, blue-green water and great big waves that everyone and their granddad seemed to enjoy getting buffeted about by. The beach was especially magical at sunset, when the heat had subsided somewhat (still a balmy 28 degrees or so).

    We found a cafe, El Cafecito, which became our regular: cheap but tasty, especially the crushed-ice margaritas, whose strength varies from "that's got a kick" to "are you trying to kill me?" depending on the whims of the bartender. I also had a michelada, which is a beer poured over something like a Bloody Mary. Was it tasty? I'm still not sure.

    Having done and seen lots of things in every destination so far, we decided to slow down, and our days became: breakfast at Cafecito, beach, light lunch, siesta, beach, dinner and margaritas at Cafecito.

    Though we didn't pack our days, Albert did try surfing (a good place for it), and the rest of us did a couple of sessions of guided yoga, with varying degrees of success. "I did ask if you wanted active yoga" chided our instructor, after a session left me gasping and streaming sweat, while Orsi looked serene and swanlike.

    Sadly, at the end of 3 days it was time to bid farewell to our now-erstwhile travelling companions Albert and Orsi. We'll miss you on the rest of the trip!
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  • Day 18–20

    Mountain Escape - San José del Pacífico

    April 19 in Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    After 3 weeks of heat and concrete, we wanted to see some actual nature. From the coast, we needed to travel back to Oaxaca city to catch a flight to Merida. We could have taken the newly built highway ( like on the way to the coast) or take a detour via San Jose del Paxifico, this magical and sleepy mountain village. During our Pulque Jam Session in Cholula we were advised to atop here and they were right: the views are amazing, you are at 2500 meters and if it's clear sky you can even see the Pacific from the Mirador (lookout). We slept in a small wooden cabin, belongig to a family hostel. They were super kind, welcoming and baked a madly delicious vegetarian pizza at their cafe
    Our cabin had a huge window that faced the mountains- it was amazing waking up to that view! We only stayed two nights but we liked how non- touristy (still) it is. You can buy vheap food, there are chickens, roosters, dogs and cats everywhere and people are kind. We didn't go during the ,,mushroom season" so maybe that's why it was quieter. We definitely be back for the full experience next time 🍄☺️.
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