• Réka Fehér
  • Alex McKenzie
Apr – Sep 2024

Big Adventure

Juhu, we are embarking on our 6 months of travel via North America and South East Asia. Bobo will manage our residence in Berlin, while we are away. Read more
  • Trip start
    April 2, 2024

    Rathaus Schöneberg

    April 1, 2024 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Hellooooo everyone!

    Thanks for popping by ❤️ we will do our best to regularly update this blog!

    In less than 5 hours we are heading to the fabulous BER airport to board our plane to Paris for a super exciting layover of 6.5 hours 😅. Our first actual stop is Cancun (tacky, I know ☺️).

    Bobo senses that something is up but for now she enjoys our company.

    Thanks for all the messages of love and the good wishes! Happy Jesus Zombie day to you all 🧟!

    Reka
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  • Charles de Gaulle International Airport

    April 2, 2024 in France ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

    Hi there ! We woke up at the ungodly hour of 2 AM to head to the airport. Bobo stood at the bathroom window and we felt a bit guilty leaving her 🥹💔 but we know that she will be in good hands with Sarah and Joanna. The journey went smooth, the bus actually arrived! I was a bit nervous, as there have been many strikes lately - but we were lucky this time ☺️!The flight to Paris went super well, despite the chaos at the check-in with idiots not knowing which lanes to use. But, we managed it in the end.
    Now we are desperately trying to stay awake during our layover in Paris (CDG). Terminal 2E is very disappointing. There are limited food vendors (no restaurants, just an Exki and Pret) and some hideous plastic meal deals at Relay. The shops here cater only for millionaires - you can buy Chanel, Gucci, Burberry, Hermes, Cartier, Hennesy branded products. The glamour and glitz attracted even us but the price tags left us horrified - we saw a male sweater from Hermes for 5.500 EUR 😯😯😯😯and a bandana for 350 EUR. Obviously, the shopkeepers found our existence in this fathomable luxury an oddity and thought we would steal or break something at any minute. So we opted to leave the fancy establishment before knocking anything over with our backpacks😂😂😂. So, if you are a fancy-pants, this is the right place for you. Otherwise the airport looks like a space ship lined with a 90ies burgundy office carpet. Definitely missable 😄.

    We are using the timeshifter app to help us adjust to the new timezone - and it is so hard to keep the recommended schedule. After filling out a short survery, and your flight details - timesifter creates a plan for you, incl. when to avoid light, drink coffee or go for a nap. We used it back then for Colombia as we found it very helpful.

    we are sooooo tired. Thanks for reading 🌈♥️.

    -Reka
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  • Cancun, Mexico

    Apr 2–5, 2024 in Mexico ⋅ 🌬 30 °C

    After a long journey leaving us tired, confused and irritable, we arrived in Cancun on Tuesday. We've taken a few days to chill out, smooth off the roughest edges of jet lag, and get ready for Mexico City and meeting our friends.

    On day 1, after a beautiful afternoon spent at the beach, we jumped on a bus back to downtown, which quickly became ram-packed. We exchanged nervous glances and wondered how we would squeeze past when our stop arrived.

    25 minutes later: "okay Reka, let's get off here".
    "I can't".

    After the second stop we failed to get off at, I helpfully suggested that she "push a bit more". "I don't think you understand the laws of physics" came the hissed reply. The distance between stops was increasing, and (absurdly) we were still on the bus.

    Finally, somewhere in the outskirts of the city we managed to exit the bus, feeling pretty chastened, and took a taxi back to our airbnb. We took on the public transport system and lost.

    Anyway other than that it's been really lovely, we've eaten & drunk very well, and we're all fueled up for our next stop!

    -Alex
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  • Nightwalks in Cancun

    Apr 2–5, 2024 in Mexico ⋅ 🌙 29 °C

    Heyaaaa! I agree with most what Alex said in the previous post. I really liked Cancun, because it was so random/ contradictory. On the one hand, you have the glitzy part, called Hotel Zone which is lined with enormous luxury resorts, carefully manicured lawns and 🌴 trees along the driveway. The hotels are built on a super narrow sand strip (from above, it resembles a long pier). The city of Cancun and the hotel zone are separated by a lagune/ swamp area with turqouse blue water and crocodiles. Many colorful fishing boats are parked inside the lagoon. The hotel zone has fancy fashion shops strip clubs, casinos and lobster restaurants! We obviously didn't stay in there, we just came for a day to gawk at the oppulence and see Playa Delfines🐬. The beaches are amazing and FREE 🎊🎊 ( they don't even charge you for umbrellas or benches) and it has a super relaxed vibe. I saw the most beautiful green and clear water ever! Jumping into the waves was lots of fun ❤️! There mostly locals enjoying the beach, it felt nice to experience something mundane. I spent many minutes just watching the birds in the sky while Alex was reading his new book 😌.

    We opted to stay in the downtown area cause it was cheaper and that's where Mexicans live. Our house was nice and safe, but poirly maintained and quite dirty. But it qas ok for 4 days, Alex prefwrs these rustic type places anyway. 2 lovely cats were our hosts and 3 Mexican ladies lived full time in the air bnb, which was nice! This side of Cancun is pretty industrial looking - lots of construction sites, factories and endless roundabouts connect the city and its residents. The traffic is sometimes improvised, it's a bit challenging to cross the road but you can quickly get the hang of it. The downtown area is somewhat small, has a couple of colonial buildings and lots of cool graffiti, placed in the middle of residential areas or on abandoned restaurants. You see gated communities with beautiful gardens and well kept houses with cute dogs and kitties. Music is beaming from everywhere - from taco stands to supermarkets and petrol stations. We heard everything from Beegees to K-Pop and Mexican alternative rock.

    We also noticed the ruins of former buildings, abandoned shops and lots of closed shutters. The reality is that the downtown area can't compete with the services in the hotel zone. Rich tourists stay in their resort and hardly ever venture downtown. Although the center is full of hostels and backpackers, these guys don't bring in enough money to support the local shops/ restaurants. Many have been hit bei COVID so hard that they couldn't reopen and the building is left locked up, cacti and other weeds taking over. It's quite dramatic and sad but then you see that the main square ia being renovated and people still gather to spend time with friends and families. That is hopeful ☺️.

    we enjoyed the food - it was colorful and the market was also super ♥️. There is so much fruit for us to try! Today, we bought pineapple and melon- they tasted super nice and were not as sweet as at home.
    Our Spanish is just as shit as it was 4 years ago but we are trying.

    oh yeah, we did get scammed - on the beach a guy was selling coconut water - I made the mistake to take it into my hand without asking for the price first - and than he quoted 150 mexican pesos for it - which is like 7 EUR! We paid the rip-off and the coconut had like 3 sips of water in it. It was lukewarm on top of that😂. I paid double than for a litre back in Berlin 😂😂😂😂 lol. Not having a machete or a hammer at our air bnb, we could also not eat the rest of the coconut 😂. So we threw it out.

    Today we were overcharged for guacamole but it was vwey good so we didn't mind. I will learn the numbers in the upcoming days.

    -Reka
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  • Strolling in #Bosque de Chapultepec, Mexico City
    Mexico City Zocalo, the museum of BanksEnjoying WAY too MANY #tacos #cmxVisiting the museum of antrophologyUs admiring a painting for 20 minutes, folloed by a philosopical debate 🌈A very pretty cathedralThe old post office in Mexico CityAmazing dinner @El Bajio Polanco #elbajiopolancoLucha Libreeeeee showwwww!Alex, if he would work at Lucha Libre 😁you gotta buy some masks after the show!!!!! #luchalibre

    Teaming up in Mexico City

    Apr 5–9, 2024 in Mexico ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    On to Mexico City! Here we met up with our friends Albert and Orsi, who will be travelling with us for the next 10 days or so.

    Given we only had 2 1/2 days in Mexico City, we decided to make the most of it - though of course we only scratched the surface of this bewilderingly huge city. Leaving our Airbnb in the mornings, we found ourselves in the middle of the leafy, bougie Roma district. I was struck by how green the city is: every street is lined with trees; every cafe, bar or restaurant has vines or plants in the corners. I think this contributed to the light, airy feeling, despite the constant roar of cars.

    At the museum of anthropology we learned about the many complex pre-hispanic civilizations in Mexico, and at the museum of modern art we enjoyed the works of Frida Kahlo and Abraham Angel. We challenged ourselves to sit and stare at one painting (?) for 20 minutes, a fun experience I'd like to repeat. These 2 museums are beautiful works of architecture, full of light, greenery and impressive flourishes.

    We ate and drank our fill - Agua Fresca (flavoured water) from street stalls, tacos, chilaquiles, quesadillas, mezcal margaritas, gorditas...we probably ate a little too much, but it's hard to resist!

    Oh, and we saw a (partial) solar eclipse, and a bonkers fun Lucha Libre show!

    Now we're on our way to Puebla, which at 1.7 million people is a lot smaller than the 20 million metropolis of Mexico City.

    -Alex
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  • Mexican-style nachos
    Just got here. Hair and makeup are still intact, but not for long!I think I can do this in 30C Celsius!climbing the pyramidpyramid in the beackgroundThe first night old town PueblaOld town, zocalo in PueblaA cool exhibit at the Baroque Museumweird, squished faced cherubsPulque! It's thick and foamythe Pulque jam team in Cholula, thanks Paul for setting it up!windering what a tortilla pizza might taste likepretending to shopMezcaaaaaal is powerHaving a fancy drink in an old convent

    Pyramids, Pulque & Mole Poblano

    Apr 8–13, 2024 in Mexico ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    On to Puebla! Though it's not quite as famous a tourist destination as Oaxaca or Mexico City, I'm really glad we spent 5 days here. Puebla is a really beautiful city - it was built by the Spanish colonialists in the 16th century, and was the site of lots of important historical events.

    We learned a lot about the history of Puebla through several museums, but the most impressive place was probably the pyramid in nearby Cholula. While we were there, we met up with Albert's cousin and some friends to try Pulque, a very tasty drink made from fermented agave. For good Pulque, the agave plant has to grow for 30 years! After enjoying some food, Pulque and Mezcal, we had a really beautiful jam session.

    Although I am vegetarian, I decided to give myself a single "cheat" meal and I treated myself to the local speciality Mole Poblano, or chicken breast covered in a chilli-choclate sauce. So delicious!

    A highlight of our Puebla trip for me was meeting Albert and Orsi's Mexican friends - not only did they give us some great tips, but they were great fun and all around lovely people.

    -Alex
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  • Oaxaca: Street art, Mezcal and Mountains

    Apr 13–17, 2024 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    After a 5 hour bus ride, we finally got to our next destination. On the way we saw cactus forests!!!! 🌵😁🌵🌵Oaxaca de Juarez deserves every praise it gets: it's colorful, flavourful, spicy and beams with art and indigenous spirit. Since it lately got a lot of attention from media and travelbloggers, we encountered here the highest number of western tourists - who shape the atmosphere and the local economy: you see colorful colonial buildings, many fancy restaurants, art galleries and decor shops praising handmade artifacts - it looks original but I can't help finding it a bit staged - it seems like walking in Berlin, Friedrichshain. Made pretty for good willing, concious hipster travellers willing to pay thrice the price for anything ,,authentic".

    But what I find good on the other hand, is, that the markets, the zocalo (main square) and the dance square still belongs to the locals: there is a huge abundance of street food around the markets, open air dance and sport rehearsals in the main square, kitchie pop music, artifacts and ice cream sold all around the zocalo for Oaxacans.

    Regarding street food - we had one bad experience ( the food was just old and tasted of nothing - but we didn't get sick - as Albert warned us). I think you can find very good stands if you do your research and ask locals - I personally gave it another chance and had the famous beef pozole soup at @LaChefinita , a street food stall at a busy road intersection. It was busy, full of kids, parents and people eating away with enjoyment.

    Our apartment had the most beautiful view towards the mountains, the rooftop terrace was magnificent, especially at night! It was nice to share the ride to Oaxaca with our friends, Orsi and Albert. We went for a very hot sightseeing of the Monte Alban Archeological Area - an ancient zapotec city located on a high mountain - from where you could see not only Oaxaca, but the entire valley - standing on top of the Pyramid was an allemcompassing, magical feeling. Too bad we didn't hire a guide, to understand the place a tiny bit better. (Alex edit: at the top of the pyramids we were treated to a beautiful symphony from the cicadas!)

    Btw, Tequila doesn't exist here - only Mezcal, which is much more flavourful - however, still an aquired taste. We had soooo many mezcalitas but still never got drunk from them - except when it was in the middle of the day. That happened after visiting Monte Alban which left us slightly drunk and sunburned.

    Oaxacan food is very spicy, and full of flavour - I especially loved the worm salt - a mix of dried and toasted agave worms, salt and chilli. They used it for spicing drinks, salads and fruit.

    All the street art was amazing, all in all, we had a great time. Thank you all ♥️💐🌵!

    -Reka
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  • Our beloved beach at sunset
    Me and my micheladaThe whole handsome groupSuffering through yoga

    Beach chilling in Puerto Escondido

    Apr 17–20, 2024 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Our last stop as a group, Puerto Escondido, is a little (pop 30,000) seaside town, popular with surfers and hippies. The heat and humidity here was really intense: in the middle of the day it was hard to do much other than lie in bed with the fans and AC on!

    But what a beach! Our local, barely a 5 minute walk, was barely ever full, with soft white sand, blue-green water and great big waves that everyone and their granddad seemed to enjoy getting buffeted about by. The beach was especially magical at sunset, when the heat had subsided somewhat (still a balmy 28 degrees or so).

    We found a cafe, El Cafecito, which became our regular: cheap but tasty, especially the crushed-ice margaritas, whose strength varies from "that's got a kick" to "are you trying to kill me?" depending on the whims of the bartender. I also had a michelada, which is a beer poured over something like a Bloody Mary. Was it tasty? I'm still not sure.

    Having done and seen lots of things in every destination so far, we decided to slow down, and our days became: breakfast at Cafecito, beach, light lunch, siesta, beach, dinner and margaritas at Cafecito.

    Though we didn't pack our days, Albert did try surfing (a good place for it), and the rest of us did a couple of sessions of guided yoga, with varying degrees of success. "I did ask if you wanted active yoga" chided our instructor, after a session left me gasping and streaming sweat, while Orsi looked serene and swanlike.

    Sadly, at the end of 3 days it was time to bid farewell to our now-erstwhile travelling companions Albert and Orsi. We'll miss you on the rest of the trip!

    -Alex
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  • Mountain Escape - San José del Pacífico

    Apr 19–21, 2024 in Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    After 3 weeks of heat and concrete, we wanted to see some actual nature. From the coast, we needed to travel back to Oaxaca city to catch a flight to Merida. We could have taken the newly built highway ( like on the way to the coast) or take a detour via San Jose del Paxifico, this magical and sleepy mountain village. During our Pulque Jam Session in Cholula we were advised to atop here and they were right: the views are amazing, you are at 2500 meters and if it's clear sky you can even see the Pacific from the Mirador (lookout). We slept in a small wooden cabin, belongig to a family hostel. They were super kind, welcoming and baked a madly delicious vegetarian pizza at their cafe
    Our cabin had a huge window that faced the mountains- it was amazing waking up to that view! We only stayed two nights but we liked how non- touristy (still) it is. You can buy vheap food, there are chickens, roosters, dogs and cats everywhere and people are kind. We didn't go during the ,,mushroom season" so maybe that's why it was quieter. We definitely be back for the full experience next time 🍄☺️.
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  • The beautiful cenote Zaci
    Iguana!The most impressive thing about Chichen ItzaReka managed to pet this cat, Alex was v jealous

    Valladolid: Cenotes and Chichen Itza

    Apr 23–27, 2024 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    From San Jose, we took another long windy bus ride (with some confusion since the bus ride we'd pre-booked was apparently fictional), an overnight stay in Oaxaca city, a domestic flight (the last of the trip), and another coach ride, we finally arrived in Valladolid, Yucatan. This region of Mexico is in general pretty touristy, since it's easily accessible from Cancun and has famous ruins and Cenotes, beautiful natural cave-pools.

    Speaking of famous ruins: Chichen Itza!! The main pyramid is really cool, but thanks to our Mayan historian tour guide we also got a good sense of the significance of the place, as well as insight into Mayan culture in modern Mexico.

    Also look, an iguana!! They were everywhere in Valladolid. What a treat!
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  • Chill out in Tulum

    Apr 27–30, 2024 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Just a quick footprint for Tulum, since we didn't really do much other than relax here, in preparation for travelling to the US.

    -Alex

  • Atlanta: cats, catfish, and commencement

    May 1–7, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    On to country #2: USA! Our first stop Atlanta is also the first one we planned, being the city that I (Alex) have been studying at online since 2020. Now that I've finished my degree, I thought I'd quite like to attend my graduation commencement ceremony in person, and see the campus & city that I've been a virtual part of for 3 1/2 years.

    Our good friend Erin, who grew up close by, invited us to stay with her sister Alice and her partner Jason. They live in a lovely house (which is apparently not big by American standards but felt huge to us) surrounded by trees - this is going to be a theme of our stay in the US!

    They also have 2 v cute cats, Kashel (who is a "tripod" with only 3 legs) and Stubby (who doesn't have a tail). Both were shy at the start, but Kashel warmed up to us, even letting Reka pick him up (see pic!). A genuine highlight.

    Atlanta is home to the largest aquarium in the US, which we enjoyed a lot, not just for the sea life but also for the hordes of excited schoolchildren ("it's Dory!" "But where's Nemo?" And later: "ITS NEMO!!").

    On day 4, I finally graduated in person! The ceremony, held in a huge sports arena, was quite different to my undergrad ceremony in the UK. After standing for the national anthem, we sat through a pretty gross speech by the CEO of Delta Airlines, during which I was mostly trying to figure out how to wear my regalia (verdict: partial success).

    In case you ever find yourself in Atlanta, my top tip is the Center for Puppetry Arts in northern midtown. We attended the "Experimental Puppetry Theatre", comprised of several live or filmed Puppetry shorts fully funded by the center - really cool!

    -Alex
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  • The whole gang! Minus Bailey
    There she is! What a good dogTallahassee is a very green city: as Nykie puts it, "we take care of our trees"Our wide-eyed visit to CostcoMe enjoying the hell out of Justin's home studio

    Tallahassee, and nature's plans for us

    May 6–11, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    (Quick note: we're a little behind with these blog posts, but we'll catch up in the next few days!)

    Our second stop in the US was Tallahassee, to visit my old friend Justin, his wife Nykie, their dog Bailey and their lil baby Harlow. We weren't prepared for quite how cute Harlow is! She fell instantly in love with Reka.

    Justin and I had big plans to make music while I was visiting (Justin is a music producer), and we were hoping to see the Florida beach, explore the city, see some live music, etc. However, early in the morning on the third day of our visit, three (!) tornadoes struck Tallahassee, the worst weather event in decades to hit the city. We were all fine, but I was shocked later that day when driving around to get petrol: trees uprooted, roofs peeled from houses like can lids, debris everywhere. Power was out across most of the city, scuppering our music plans (which had suddenly been bumped way down the priority list).

    Although of course the lack of power and damaged infrastructure changed our plans, we made the most of it: Justin broke out his acoustic guitar, Nykie her saxophone, we played lots of board games, had a barbeque, tried some local fast food (the generator wasn't powerful enough to drive the cooker), and we spent lots of quality time with our wonderful hosts who we can't thank enough.

    Two days after we left, we finally got word from Justin that power had been restored.

    -Alex
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  • Jacksonville FL - not impressed

    May 12–13, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Due to available bus and train schedules, we had to stop in Jacksonville for the night. The place is kind of dead and in parts pretty dodgy. We went for the riverwalk in the centre which was somewhat nice because we saw some dolphins for a split second 🐬! The hotel we stayed at close to Amtrak was pretty good ( you can never go wrong with Holiday Inn) but there was literally nothing around there. Dinner was at the amazing local Waffle House, so dirty that I had to face the wall to not see the gunk in the kitchen 😂. I was surprised we didn't get food poisoning. The waitress asked us why we came to the most dangerous city in Florida and advised us on not getting kids, cause she wouldn't recommend it 😂😂. She was nice though! I am sure the beach area is much better but we were tired to make the journey to the coast. Maybe next time?

    -Reka
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  • Beautifully dark Savannah

    May 13–16, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    I don't even know where to start - Savannah is just magnificent. Firstly, it is located on the Atlantic Coast, which for me, is a HUGE plus. Secondly, it is a beautiful mix of Georgian, Edwardian, Gothic, Renessaince, Regency and Victorian architecture - everything is so skillfully decorated - the parks, the front gardens of the houses, the restaurants and cafes, I just couldn't get enough of the magical beauty. I also saw, for the very frist time, the spanish moss! It makes everything look like in a fairytale or horror-film, depending in the time of day you are seeing them. We stayed at a cute air bnb with two super cute and cuddly dogs, which we really enjoyed.

    We learned about the dark past of the city, as Savannah was one of the main slave trade hubs and keepers in the US. The city was built exclusively by enslaved people, and I do believe that they are the ones deserving all the praise and credit for the beauty and prosperity around us.

    Owen's Thomas House and Slave Quarters did a great job in presenting the duality of life in Savannah - from the perspective of the ,,owners" and the enslaved people who lived opposite from each other in complete different universes. It was heartbraking, but I really liked the way they brought such a difficult topic closer to the visitors.

    We had super good food here - and a wonderful day at the beach - on the peninsula called Tybee Island. The streets were full of vacation homes, seafood shacks and souvenir shops. After a WAY too LARGE lunch of fried green tomatoes and chicken tacos we went to the beach to delight in our CBD drinks (which are btw, completely legal in the US). After we got bored, we decided to walk to the end of the island (about 5 km). We ended up seeing the sunset over the dunes and ocean, which was pretty magical 😻. There were crabs, seagulls, fish and cute shells everywhere. The North Beach was way more quiet and serene than the one we where dropped off in the south.

    We found our way out of the dunes somewhere in the middle of nowhere, next to a well-lit car park. We thought it's a good place to call an uber to. Only later did we realize that we were ar the police station and possibly, next to a local jail. The uber driver was immensely delighted of picking up two idiot tourists instead of criminals 😂😂😂😂😂😂.

    These were some great 3 days spent in such a historic and monumental place.
    Thank you Savannah, I hope to be back one day ❤️.

    -Reka
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  • Amtraaaaak train, YEAH!
    Our super uncool suitcase 😅Wilson Skyline (Ghost town)Trophy Brewery and Pizza - GraffitiAlrx enjoying his beerMe watching Bridgerton with a magic drink

    North Carolina step 1: Raleigh

    May 16–17, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Savannah was amazing, we enjoyed chilling out with the host dogs. We also learned about the colonialist past and the slave trade. On the fourth morning we took a long-ass train to Wilson (which, quite frankly, is a creepy semi-abandoned town in North Carolina). We stopped there for 4 hours and could only find 1 open cafe/ bakery which shut at 4 pm? We walked with our ridiculously big suitcase through the suburbs and it quickly turned dodgy, so we decided to return to the ,,center".

    After a delay of 1 hour we took the connecting train to Raleigh, which is the comercial and administrative center of the state of North Carolina. We stayed one night in a cute air bnb (it was a basement apartment). Alex and I went for dinner to a cool microbrewery #trophybreweryandpizza. The food was great and the IPA and sours were sensational 🥳🤯. We bought two 4-packs as a gift for our future hosts.

    After that, Alex went to bed and I binge-watched the first half of the newest Bridgerton season 😅. Oh yeah, since our arrival in the US, took the liberty to try lots of thc and cbd infused gummies and drinks (which are, btw, absolutely legal in many US states). They give you an easy - moderate high without all the side effects 🙀. So I was high as a kite 🥳while rewatching the carriage scene over and over again ♥️♥️♥️♥️. At 3 am all episodes were watched and I finally went to bed - not before managing to break the power by burning an old plug in the basement - in the end there wasn't much to do so I just went to bed 🤣. I was very excited about the next morning, as we were to be picked up by our friend's mom.

    -Reka
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  • Dorothea Dix old hospital building
    Dorothea Dix hospital building today 🤐Dorothea Dix Public Park todayRaleigh Farmers MarketBest North Carolinian home ♥️View from the balconyHouse surrounded by trees 🌿🌲🌿

    N Carolina step 2: Raleigh 2 Chapel Hill

    May 17–27, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    After apologeticly letting our host, Tim, know, that I busted the lights in his basement bedroom 🫠, we said goodbye to the downtown area 😌. Kathy is one of our best friend's mom 😍. She was so kind to pick us up at 11 am and take us on a tour through Raleigh. It was by car (not on foot, don't be ridiculous 😅) - we saw the government buildings, the courthouse (where Kathy spent most of her working life as a lawyer), many baptist churches (including the first black baptist church) and some of the university campus as well.

    We also drove through the Dorothea Dix Park - which is a sinister relic of the past. Dorothea Rix was a social reformer and mental health activist who convinced the state to commision the first psychiatric hospital in North Carolina. The vast area covered an oak forest, rolling fields, pasture for livestock and a recreational area around the facility. The hospital provided living and recreational space for the patients - even agriculture activities were a part of the hospitals' antrophosofical treatment. It opened it's doors in 1880 and functioned as a facility until 2012 when it was deemed unfit for modern hospital standards. After closing down, no other facility would welcome the patients housed at the Dix building, which meant that most of the people had to return to their old lives, if they had any outside of the facility. Many patients without a reliable social net became unhoused and/turned to substance abuse out of desperation and hopelessness. While still in function, our host also worked there as a legal adviser for many years, when court cases decided about the faith/ treatment of the patients or the custody of their dependants. The closed station looked like a prison from outside - I can't imagine it being a ,, good place" for everyone 🥺.

    After the facility closed down, they converted the hospital grounds into a public park and today they are organising events on the former farmer fields. It is a strange sight but popular among locals nonetheless.

    To brighten our day, we went to the local farmers market, where we bought fresh 🍓, hummus and flat bread, barbecue sauce and fresh veggies. We even saw a man that created acoustic and electric guitars out of cigar boxes. 😁 🎸!!!!????!!?.

    After that we ate some sweet 🍩s from Krispy Creme and a delicious lunch at one of the delis in Raleigh.

    Sometime in the afternoon we drove to Chapel Hill, to the warm and light house in which Daniel grew up in, nestled within the tall pine forest of North Carolina 🌲. It was a truly magical place ♥️.

    -Reka
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  • Not a bad view for breakfast!
    These dense forests are everywhere in Chapel HillLook how cute the geese are!Fireflies! Or as the locals have it, "lightning bugs"

    North Carolina 3: Chapel Hill & Carrboro

    May 20–Jun 6, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    We stayed for the first 2 weeks in our friend Cathy's beautiful house right in the forest. From there, we went for walks among the trees, enjoying the variety of birds, flowers and cicadas - enjoying somewhat less the chiggers, mosquitos, spiders and other bitey creatures lurking on the forest floor.

    We explored the cute university towns of Chapel Hill and Carrboro. Restaurant food is high quality but leans pretty heavily on the deep fryer - luckily Cathy is an excellent cook of healthy, varied fare, and she and Reka bonded over a love of a good salad.

    Something this part of the world does unquestionably better than Germany is farmers markets - we really enjoyed being shown around several local ones. We loved the fact that our hosts knew the vendors by name: Reka tells me that, while I was in New York, Jim (an old friend of our hosts) took her to a farmers market and, having just met Reka, repeatedly said "now you simply *must* meet Barbara, you'll love her!" at each new vendor.

    Speaking of Jim, we were touched that after only one meeting he invited us to a big dinner at his house with his wife Jane, Cathy and Homer, and another childhood friend Eric. What a beautiful evening! We all told stories over wine, beer and excellent lasagne (made vegetarian especially for me). I think there's a lot to be learned from how youthful this group of 60- and 70-somethings are.

    After 2 weeks, Daniel (Cathy's son) arrived fresh from a wedding in California, so we vacated his childhood bedroom and went to stay in the spare room of Jane, a warm and fascinating woman who has loved a very full life, and her charming old dog who's name I've forgotten.

    Jane's house is right next to a pond where we spent lots of time watching turtles and geese (apparently there's been an effort by some of the more fun-hating neighbours to keep the geese away from the pond, thankfully fruitless). Jane showed us the local library , and on the way back we had biscuits, a local delicacy which (in my humble opinion) is better as a snack than a whole meal.

    -Alex
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  • My lovely hosts' cat
    The view from the pierApparently a very famous picture spot in BrooklynThe jazz club had a great vibePizza was great!

    Flying visit to New York

    May 21–24, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    While we were staying at Kathy's idyllic place in the woods in North Carolina, I decided I should take this opportunity to visit my friends in New York - who knows when I'd be so close again?

    Loathe to add yet another flight to our already carbon-intensive trip, I opted for the 11-hour train, which for 2 full days in New York was worth it, but only just.

    I'd been to New York once before, on a disastrous work trip, and I was determined to rewrite those memories. Wandering around Washington Square Park, I sat down to listen to some jazz, and while enjoying the music I was offered some free pizza "in honour of world Bitcoin day". Eating my crypto pizza, I felt like I'd just gotten a complete authentic New York experience in the span of about 5 minutes.

    On the second day, I was given a tour by my friend Dominic of Brooklyn. We walked through the famous hipster areas (stopping for a coffee), through the orthodox Jewish district (stopping for a bagel), then continued as the city became less fashionable and clean, and more grimy and industrial, until we reached the pier at the far south west. We then went to meet the artist/engineer Chico MacMurtie in his studio, a converted church full of bizarre, beautiful wireframe robots, semi-mechanical musical instruments, and other fascinating objects he has built (he requested no photos, sadly, but look him up). While there, we met a troupe of french puppeteers, one of whom talked at length about the Vatican and stage magic, somewhat opaquely but with great fervour.

    That evening, I went to a jazz club, because I was in New York. Never enough jazz!

    -Alex
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  • Our teacher
    us three looking beautifulAlex sucking at disk golfMe not knowing what a disc golf is forJust Daniel being his usual self ♥️disc golf viewwalking homecloud chasersview close to Homer's house,, I don't want any of your memories''Daniel reflectingDisc golf lakebad tv, anyone?

    North Carolina 4: trip to the mountains

    May 29–Jun 1, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Before leaving North Carolina, we took a trip with Daniel to Homer's holiday house in the mountains to the east.

    What a beautiful place! Just like Kathy's house, the surroundings were green and dense with trees, but here the trees parted to reveal stunning mountain views, and here we barely encountered another soul.

    Daniel insisted that we must try disc-golf, which is (as the name suggests) basically golf with frisbees. Sounds dumb! It's not! In fact it's a really nice way to combine gentle sport with a nice walk around nature. The course we went to was particularly beautiful, with the individual holes taking us between trees, into valleys and up hills. Reka and I had a lot of fun, though we both suck at it (Reka: excuse me?)

    Other than disc golf, and wandering around the pristine surroundings, we enjoyed lazing around the holiday house, eating altogether too many snacks and watching bad TV. Good memories were made!

    -Alex
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  • Boston was fun! Would take a 10-hour layover there again
    Me in BostonMust. Trust. The app.Sunrise? Sunset? Who knows at this pointReka has well and truly lost itThe view from the taxi: maybe all this was worth it

    100 grim hours travelling to Indonesia

    Jun 5–6, 2024 in Qatar ⋅ ☀️ 40 °C

    Well, it was a fun and illuminating 2 months in North America, but now the real adventure (arguably) began! And however things would turn out when we arrived, the journey was most definitely an adventure.

    The plan: fly from Raleigh-Durham to New York, then 4 hours later fly to Abu Dhabi, then 8 hours later take a flight to Jakarta, then (after a night in a hotel) take our last flight to Silangit, a tiny airport in North Sumatra, where we would take a 90-minute taxi to the port of Parapat, and then finally a small ferry would take us directly to our guesthouse on Samosir Island. Daunted, but ready, we set off to the airport.

    Snag #1: after checking in nice and early for our flight, we get a notification that it's delayed by 3 hours, meaning we'll probably miss our transfer. A few hours, 2 chaotic calls to customer service and multiple chats with the bored airport staff later, we managed to get our flights rebooked for the next day. New plan: fly to Boston, 10 hours (!) later fly to Doha, 8 hours later onward to Jakarta.

    Ok. Fine. The airport provided hotel room is acceptable, and one more uneasy sleep later we're back at the airport, and we make it to Boston. Which, by the way, is lovely! I'm so glad we decided to explore the city rather than wait in the airport. We had some delicious food in Chinatown, wandered around some historic sites and even had time for a quick beer before heading back to the airport for our flight to Doha.

    Since our trip would be travelling across 11 time zones, to mitigate jet lag we were following the instructions of the Timeshifter app which told us when to sleep, wake up and drink coffee. We knew it's schedule would be punishing, but better than the alternative. So on our red-eye flight to Doha, we tried our best not to sleep.

    Arriving in Doha, we were by now irritable and tired, but we knew we had many, many hours of our trip left. For the first time in our lives, we decided to book ourselves into a business lounge - we reasoned that after subtracting the cost of the meals, it's not _that_ expensive, and we would need some rest for what is coming. Of course, rest only meant sleep if the app said we could sleep. Must. Trust. The app.

    Well, rest turned out to be only somewhat restful, although the food was excellent (and it was so good to have access to showers). And here we came to snag #2: sitting at the gate waiting for our flight to begin boarding, it turned out there was a problem with the plane, which (after some chaos and miscommunication) shook out to an extra 4-hour delay. Fine. We are fine.

    EVENTUALLY, we made it onto our plane, and an eternity later arrived in Jakarta. Delirious from tiredness and thoroughly ready not to be doing this anymore, we wandered around looking for the airport hotel Anara. Where is Anara? We only see signs for Hotel Bandara. Asking passersby only returned baffled looks. It took us far too long to realise that Hotel Bandara is just the Indonesian for "airport hotel", and the signs were actually for us. Fine. No problem. We can do this.

    So the last day of our journey arrived, us feeling somewhat more fresh. Our flight to Silangit was only an hour delayed (not bad!), but when we arrived we felt a little dodgy - maybe something we ate, or maybe the jetlag was beginning to sink its teeth in. A swarm of taxi drivers came to ask us where we are from and where we're going, but to the most insistent one at the front of the pack I firmly said "no thank you, we're not interested" and we went to sit down and gather our thoughts.

    A tea and a short rest later, we were ready to proceed. Returning to the taxi stand, we found only a single taxi driver left - the one I'd not-so-kindly told to go away. Sheepishly, we loaded our luggage into his car.

    The next leg was relatively smooth: the car drive was beautiful and arrived into the port of Parapat, and an hour or so later our boat left the harbour for TukTuk. Travelling across Lake Toba at sunset was rather magical.

    We arrived at TukTuk, and after a fairly gruelling 45-minute walk carrying our suitcase over a bumpy stony track, we finally, finally arrived at our guesthouse. We made it!! I am never doing that again.

    -Alex
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  • The view of lake toba from Tuk Tuk
    Surprise restaurant cat!This is an important historical site for the Batak peopleEfrata waterfallLush jungleAt the start of our bike ride (that's why we're not covered in sweat)Possibly the best view I've ever had for a coffeeA lake...on an island...on a lake...on an islandNot sure what was wrong with itIn the throes of food poisoningAlex and the bandA beautiful Batak houseGetting a Becak rideOur lovely tour guide Adele and her dog

    Lush jungle & deadly food in Tuktuk

    Jun 7–28, 2024 in Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Our adventure in Tuk Tuk started particularly inauspiciously, with dreadful food poisoning, exhaustion, and other delightful reasons to stay in bed.

    Once feeling better, however, we began really enjoying Tuk Tuk, a little village on the volcanic island of Samosir. Samosir is surrounded by the Lake Toba, which provides breathtaking views wherever you are in the village. We were glad to be able to relax and take our time.

    Everything grows everywhere here! On the side of the road, you can find wild mango, pineapple, guava, coconut, papaya, and lots more. We developed a ritual of going once daily to our favourite fruit stand, where I would get a juice (usually something with passion fruit) and Reka would get a coconut water, which the owner would prepare using a machete.

    One day, we rented bicycles, and after getting a lift up a few hills (and down some for good measure), we rode back through some absolutely stunning scenery. Check out the picture with the coffee cup!

    Staying for 3 weeks meant we were able to get to know a few of the locals, which was really special and made us feel like a part of this little community. I even played keys with the house band at Roy's Pub! I know it's a cliche, but people are very friendly here - always saying hello to us, giving us big smiles. We were stopped a couple of times by visiting groups of schoolchildren eager to practice their English, who insisted we follow them on Instagram after our charming chats.

    Tuktuk was a booming destination for backpackers in the 90s, and it has visibly faded somewhat - there are a lot of empty restaurants and guesthouses, which we found sad. It also has the same problem as the rest of Indonesia - rubbish everywhere. Nowhere is perfect!

    As well as lazing around in Tuktuk itself, we went on several days trips to explore other parts of the island, and areas immediately outside it on the larger island of Sumatra. The Efrata waterfall was a particular highlight.

    All in all, despite some dodgy stomachs (a problem that is by no means over when we leave Tuktuk), we really loved it here. A fitting start to our 2 months in this beautiful country!

    -Alex
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  • Ecovillage Silimalombu

    Jun 28–Jul 8, 2024 in Indonesia ⋅ 🌩️ 26 °C

    This was such a beautiful place! The "ecovillage" is a farm, which grows all the food that guests eat, as well as producing mango wine (very tasty) and various other products from cosmetics to sponges. Reka and I, wanting the full experience, volunteered to grind the bark of a cinnamon tree into powder form, a process which involves 2 spice grinders and many hours of sieving and managing heat, wearing face masks to avoid inhaling cinnamon dust. At the end, our clothes were covered in a thick layer of cinnamon. At the end, Selvie (the manager) gave us some cinnamon liqueur as thanks - it didn't last very long...

    As well as all the regular farm animals (mostly puppies and chickens), the farm had a special guest: George the macaque. He was rescued as a roughly 3-day-old baby from certain death by the owners of the eco farm, who have since been raising him themselves. I'm not sure I've ever met something so cute before! George really bonded with me, and we spent a lot of time together, playing and cuddling. I miss him!

    -Alex
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  • Croc spotting in Singkil

    Jul 8–10, 2024 in Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    We briefly stopped off in Singkil, on the west coast of Sumatra, before heading off to an island. While we were staying there, we took a tour of the swamps, led by an expert in crocodiles. There were many times when he saw the croc but it was too camouflaged for us to see :( but hopefully you can spot one in these pics! Also a monitor lizard!

    -Alex
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  • Palambak: literal paradise

    Jul 10–19, 2024 in Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Palambak is a tiny island off the west coast of Sumatra where we spent a week and a half. I think the pictures mostly speak for themselves.

    Not all was perfect though: being such a tiny island, there was only one place to eat, and the food mostly didn't agree with me, so I spent an unfortunate amount of time sick :( But other than that, this was a really special stay.

    -Alex
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