• Geoff Potter
  • Lara Potter
  • Michelle Potter
  • Stanley Potter
déc. 2023 – janv. 2024

Sri Lanka & India 23/24

Une aventure de 36 jours par Geoff, Lara, Michelle & Stanley En savoir plus
  • On the road to KumbukRiver

    30 décembre 2023, Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    We made a few stops on the way to our hotel. A Lara pose in a rice field - just had to be done! A fruit stand. And one for the only in India (I mean Sri Lanka!) files.

  • The treacherous road to Kumbuk River

    30 décembre 2023, Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Getting to our Hotel turned out to be an adventure in its own right! Kumbuk River Eco Lodge is very much off the beaten track and a novelty in its own right with the Elephant House being world famous in Sri Lanka. Google Maps took us off the main road but the Hotel had advised not to follow Google Maps as it sent you in the wrong way. Following the Hotel's instructions we made it to a very rural back road and then was an inverted bridge that was too deep for the car to get through. We were worried about the amount of water in it but as we approached the bottom of the car scraped pretty early on and so Aruna aborted and rung the Hotel for help.

    It was persisting down with rain (obviously!) but the Hotel folk were good humoured and insisted the car could do it. We all got out and our luggage too so the car was as light as could be. No problem, he got through with only a small scrape of the underbelly!

    Further down the road was the turn off to the Hotel plus another inverted bridge and a very narrowing muddying path. Aruna put his foot down and said he wasn’t driving there with his car. The Hotel guys thought he was pretty soft but they went back and got their little Subaru and loaded all 4 of us and all our luggage and set off. It did seem pretty crazy but as they promised we got there safe and sound!
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  • Tree house - Kumbuk River

    30 décembre 2023, Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    We chose Kumbuk River Eco Lodge because it was totally unique! There are 4 units on the property and each has unique qualities with the Elephant House being the most iconic. We decided to stay in the Tree House but the Truck looked pretty cool too. The Hotel Manager informed us it had the biggest bed in Sri Lanka and we think he might be right! Room for all 4 of us to fit across! We decided given the messy sleepers that our kids can be that we would get the sofa bed made up to give us a little more room.

    As we were so isolated Dinner and Breakfast were included in the price. Boy was dinner spectacular! The meal prepared was a total feast and everything tasted so incredibly good. There was so much food we couldn’t finish it all but we were totally satisfied.

    What a beautiful place! We look forward to exploring it tomorrow, fingers crossed the rain cuts us a break!

    We all slept pretty well! The river was very swollen from all the rain, the Manager said it was under the Treehouse yesterday, but the noise was soothing rather than keeping us awake. When we were shown our room there were a few leaks here and there and the water filtration system for the running water was broken so it was brown water. We totally understood given what we had seen from the amount of rain that had fallen.

    Breakfast was as spectacular as dinner was! No toast and eggs here. We asked for western and local foods as we know how fussy Lara can be! The waffles with chocolate sauce were a winner as were the coconut patties. The freshly squeezed juices were to die for and it was the best coffee we had had in Sri Lanka. A great way to start the day, just sad we will miss breakfast on the last day as we leave super early to get to the safari in time.
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  • Kumbuk River Nature Walk

    31 décembre 2023, Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    There were plenty of things advertised to do but a few were not possible with the swing bridge wiped out and the river uncrossable so we decided to do the nature walk. Now this wasn’t a nature walk like we had ever done before! We wondered why there were two guides needed but it became apparent fairly soon. There were wild elephants around and there was one who had been through that morning that was a lone elephant and was attacking humans. An angry elephant is not something you want to encounter!

    One of the guides went further out in front and asked us to not talk so that he could listen out for signs of elephants. The other guide stayed close to us. He explained the escape routes should we encounter an elephant. Basically run and duck under the electric fence. If that was too far away then run up a bank or climb a tree. The lead guide would stay and ward off the elephant while we made our dash. All of this wasn’t hugely reassuring but it was an adventure we reasoned!

    On our way we saw some pretty significantly sized elephant footprints and we were shown where an elephant had broken through a fence to reach a farmer's crops. On every farm there was a tree house where the farmer would sleep at night to protect his crops by warding off the elephant. First protection is the electric fence, second is fire crackers and thirdly a gun (they would shoot over the top of the elephant to scare it).

    Then we were shown a footprint of a leopard. There weren’t many outside of the National Park but there was at least one living near us! We managed to navigate the trails without any encounters with life threatening animals and made it to the lake where the guide found a crocodile egg. Had to have been dead given it had been abandoned and not eaten, interesting all the same.
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  • Kumbuk River village tour

    31 décembre 2023, Sri Lanka ⋅ 🌧 29 °C

    Next we were taken to the home of a woman who was widowed when her husband was murdered a few years ago. Without a husband, life was pretty tough in the village and, as she was not a local, she had no other family around and so was ostracised a bit. The staff of Kumbuk River had decided to help her a little by including her on the stop where they would use her oven to cook corn and harvest some coconuts so we could try both as part of the tour.

    It really made for quite a unique experience and so we felt good about leaving her some money. 5,000 rupees is pretty significant to villagers and you could tell from the look on her face that we really had made a huge difference to her which made us feel good.

    On the walk home we went through the village. People stood in doorways and kids played and everyone noticed us and smiled and waved. Was very sweet. We tried to nail that photo with the whole family standing in the doorway but everyone moved really quick once we got the camera out!
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  • New Year's Eve dinner

    31 décembre 2023, Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    The kids spent the day chilling on their devices as they didn’t want to go for a walk so they didn’t deserve a massage! Mum and Dad sure did! Was very relaxing but not a lot of pressure applied so we both very nearly fell asleep!

    We had thought we might do a mud bath. Just looked like it might be fun! However the rain came again after the massage and so that idea went out of the window a bit. The staff had promised Stanley that they would play cricket with him. They got a few overs in but with the weather the way it was he was a bit short changed.

    New Years Eve dinner was promised as a special feast. With a USD30 surcharge per person we expected it to be good. It was good but not spectacular like our other meals to date. The homemade wine was really good and the fish was enormous, certainly enough to feed 10 people with plenty left over. We made friends with the other guests. We overheard two women talking about heading to Ella. We asked them if they knew about the leeches. They didn’t (I think it is something you just don’t talk about – like Malaysia’s toilets!) so we made sure they knew what they were in for!

    There was another Danish family. Their kids were younger than Lara and Stanley so they didn’t quite hit it off. The Dad was a former professional footballer playing over 400 games with 1 season in the Superliga. He then coached for 12 years and was now a Director of football. Was neat hearing his stories of losing 2 Danish Cup finals: one on penalties and the other in extra time. His wife was not feeling well and had to go to hospital earlier in the day but seemed to be doing ok now.

    Knowing we had to be up at 4am we celebrated New Years in NZ time (so about 6pm) which was great as there was no way we were going to make it to midnight!
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  • Yala National Park

    1 janvier 2024, Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    The alarm went off at 4.10am but Dad had already been up for 25 minutes – not quite over the jetlag!

    First job was to rattle the dags of the kids, fair to say they weren’t all that impressed by the early morning wake up call! True to form the hotel staff were there ready and waiting just before 4.30 to take our bags. They really were amazing. And much to our surprise our driver was there ready and waiting at the end of the driveway. Everything going to plan so far..

    The driver had said 45 minutes to get to the park so we were wondering why we were starting so early when we knew the park didn’t open until 6am. After driving for nearly an hour an a half we met the jeep man and it was another 45 minutes from there. Well and truly missing the sunrise!

    Compared to Udawalawe, Yala was a real let down. The toilets were so bad that most just peed behind a tree. Everything was run down and the staff rude. Nevertheless we got our tickets and ventured on.
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  • Yala leopard encounter

    1 janvier 2024, Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Yala is all about the leopards. There is the biggest population of free leopards in Sri Lanka there but we had heard they were possibly going to be hard to find due to how many jeeps were using this entrance as the other 2 entrances were both closed.

    While we were happy to see more crocodiles and elephants, various birds and wild pig there was only one leopard to be found and he was up a tree.

    Our driver asked if we wanted to see him and of course we did, that was why we came! We had about 45 minutes of queuing which included our engine breaking down - and having to crash start in reverse due to whenever there was a space opening up someone would jump in the queue!

    When we finally got to the front of the queue we could see the tail of a leopard in the tree. You could tell it was a leopard tail because it moved! Our driver took Mum’s phone to take a photo from his angle and sure enough you could see an actual leopard from his position.

    Over 4 hours of safari and one partial sighting of a leopard, we left a tad disappointed!
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  • Mirissa

    1 janvier 2024, Sri Lanka ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

    The journey to Mirissa was pretty uneventful, we got in in the early arvo so enough time for the kids to have some chill time and for Mum and Dad to scope it out. The beach looked amazing and the restaurants that lined the way reminded us a lot of Goa and a bit of Thailand. Looking forward to some ‘chill’ tomorrow!

    Of course then the rain came again but we are kind of used to that now!
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  • Mirissa

    2 janvier 2024, Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    All Stanley wanted to do was play some cricket! So that’s what Stanley and Dad did 😊 Dad had carted the cricket bats a long way and Stanley the tennis balls, we needed to get some use of them! A young boy and his Mum were watching us so we asked them if they wanted to play with us. They were from Holland and knew nothing about cricket but joined in all the same.

    Mum and Lara did a spot of shopping. No shopping, but met a kitten and enjoyed a hot dog and a donut.

    Cricket was hot work so Stanley wanted to go for a swim. The water was warm and the waves fun so when Mum and Lara came by looking for us they raced home to grab their togs and join in. Stanley lost Dad’s cap with a killer wave and Lara claimed to have been nearly drowned 146 times! Amazing we are still here to tell the story!

    The kids worn out as they were, stayed at the hotel chilling while Mum and Dad got a massage. Everyone is happy!

    A big day of travel ahead tomorrow!
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  • Galle Fort

    3 janvier 2024, Sri Lanka ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    We left early as we wanted to pack in as much as we could on our last full day in Sri Lanka. After passing the fishing boats the first stop was the fort in Galle. Originally built in the 17th century by the Portuguese it was taken over and added to by the Dutch and the English. Was quite an impressive structure and afforded a great view of the Galle international cricket stadium.

    We wandered around the perimeter until it got just too hot. Finally we have sun and it is 31 degrees. Complain if it's raining, complain if there is no rain! Sri Lanka can’t win!
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  • Galle fort township

    3 janvier 2024, Sri Lanka ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    We cut inside looking for somewhere to have breakfast and were seduced by a sign saying ‘best iced coffee’ (even though it looked expensive by Sri Lankan pricing standards). My gosh what a great call, definitely the best iced coffee we had ever had, Vietnamese style coffee over condensed milk and ice. Delicious! We all had juices that were to die for and the coconut cake delicious. Grand sum of $20 was an absolute steal.

    We wandered the forts inner streets with its quaint shops in beautiful buildings. Mum couldn’t quite find the dress she was looking for but was fun trying stuff on.

    We visited the lighthouse and had ice creams but the kids were finding the going tough, it was very hot! So we pin dropped our location for the driver to come save us!
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  • Colombo

    3 janvier 2024, Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    Colombo was 2 hours away. We stopped off at a roadside stop where the kids had pizza hut and Dad got the wet shoes and togs out and draped them over the baking car in an attempt to dry them out. Still pretty stinky but getting closer to dry!

    We had time for a couple of stops in Colombo. We visited Independence Square which was a lovely monument to the gaining of independence in 1948.

    We then had our first ‘India’ moment where our driver dropped us off at a jewellery store that was clearly going to be fully priced with a commission for the driver. Mum bought some expensive white tea and (eventually!) 3 stones. Will need to still find a jeweller to turn them into something but we had a little piece of Sri Lanka to come home with us.

    We next visited the very famous Buddhist temple. Very impressive building and many artefacts and historical pieces in there including the smallest buddha carving made of gold that was less than 1cm high. It was about to strike 6pm so our driver took us to a prayer room and the drummer and piper came in and played as part of the calling to prayer, was quite a lovely moment (though loud!).

    Final stop was to see the lotus building. Quite spectacular with its changing colour. We got a selfie at the base but not sure Mum contemplated what this picture was going to remind folk of!
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  • Goodbye Sri Lanka

    3 janvier 2024, Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    The hotel was very close to the Airport. Dad chose it to be sure there would be no traffic issues in making our flight the next day. It was super cheap $55 for 2 rooms. We had to walk through the family living room with the kids watching cartoons on tv to get to our room and the owner said ‘best to lock your doors’ while looking towards the other room on our floor. Reassured we were! At the end of the day it was a place to put the head down which was all we needed. Sad to be leaving Sri Lanka tomorrow, we will definitely need to come back!En savoir plus

  • Hello India

    4 janvier 2024, Inde ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Our driver arrived on time at 10am. Our flight is not till 1.45pm but with check in at 10.45am we were best off being early. No major hitches, we thanked our driver and gave him a tip. Wasn’t perfect but he was a good guy and did try his best to help us.

    All was well until we realised there was no plane at gate 14 where we were waiting and the people had kind of disappeared without us noticing. We had been waiting there for nearly 2 hours and without warning we got the idea there must have been a late gate change. Gate 14 was as far away as you could go in the airport so getting to gate R5 with the ‘Final Call’ warning flashing did induce a bit of panic but we made it!

    We’re on our way back to India 😊

    The Hotel package had a pick up service so we found our driver at the airport. Coming outside we had our first ‘can we have a photo with you moment’. Had to get a photo back with them of course! Nice moment to get us back into India mode and we reflected absolutely nobody asked us for a photo in Sri Lanka – I think we missed that!

    The Pilot told us when we landed that it was clear and 31 degrees. So happy to be free from rain except the moment we left the airport the first drops of rain fell and by the time the driver brought the car around it was fair pissing down! We just could not believe it, it hadn’t rained for days – cursed Travelling Potters!

    We had seen no phone stand at the airport so we asked the driver to stop somewhere where we could get some Indian SIM cards. We didn’t get a picture but it was an hour and 20 minutes huddled under a tin roof at a side of the road shop while we provided every form of identification and personal information from both us and the Driver as our sponsor. Lots of rules, couldn’t get SIMs for the kids as they were under 18, as adults we were only allowed to get 2, we needed passport photos and visa documents as well as where we were staying in India and our Driver had to provide all these things too. Thank goodness he had the patience of a saint and even helped us out by paying! The Hotel had called him twice to ask where he was, gosh what an ordeal!

    We are staying at the Taj Connemara in Chennai. We chose this one as it was really nice and we didn’t have high hopes for Chennai as a destination. If that was the case at least we would be staying somewhere nice. And nice it is!

    Staying in an executive suite comes with breakfast and high tea, very much looking forward to indulging in those tomorrow. The rooms are top class and the Hotel itself is very heritage and has the feel of very opulent past times.

    There was a shopping mall next door so Mum and Lara were very keen to check it out. We figured there had to be a food court so we would eat there. Navigating three floors of shops with every shop keeper racing out to greet us and insist we come in and buy something we were exhausted by the time we got back to the bottom floor food court. There only seemed to be Domino’s, McDonalds and a particularly dodgy looking ice cream vendor with his snacks. McDonalds it was.

    We all had different Chicken Burgers and it is fair to say everyone was surprised with the spice but none more so than Lara! She was so gutted to be let down by McDonalds that it became apparent this would be our one and only time for McDonalds in South India! Mum and Dad not hugely upset by that!

    Deciding we didn’t want to go back through the mall we thought we would try those ice creams. He showed us some funny looking bottles and insisted we try them, they were 35 rupees (about 70 cents) so we thought what the heck! They were the most delicious drinks we have ever tasted in the world ever! They were called Goli drinks, and had those balls you had to release like the Japanese drinks. The flavour we had was Mango. Just too good! Oh and the ice creams were pretty good too!

    Back to the Hotel to enjoy some more of that luxury. For a 1 hour 20 minute flight it was 8 hours of travel but we are happy to be 'home' in India!
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  • Taj Connemara Chennai

    5 janvier 2024, Inde ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    The Taj group of Hotels is probably the most famous 5 star chain of Hotels in India. There were 4 to choose from in Chennai but the Connemara sounded the most authentic in being an older hotel that had been maintained to a high level. It was also the most expensive Hotel in town!

    The bathroom facilities were of sufficient standing to enable Lara to attend to the birdnest that was Stanley's hair!

    Have to have a gin & tonic when in India we thinks! While there was no prices on the menu it is fair to say we were a little suprised to find it was NZD$40 on the final bill!

    Our breakfast waiter made a show out of the masala chai. And that pool, oh my gosh so nice!!

    Mum and Dad managed to get their High Tea as part of the Taj Club package by booking the superior room though it did take some negotiation as the Booking.com booking had Mum in that room on her own and Dad and the kids in the double room! Very relieved we navigated that ok!

    Can highly recommend the Taj Connemara!
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  • Chennai City Tour - Marina Beach

    5 janvier 2024, Inde ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    The kids were tired and didn’t want to leave the Hotel. To be honest neither did Mum and Dad but felt like we had to see something of Chennai even though the Hotel would surely have been enough!

    We negotiated a tuktuk driver for 600 rupees for a 3-4 hour city tour (that’s about $12 NZ).

    Marina Beach is a pretty famous place and a good spot to start. It is the second longest beach in the world running for 12km (the longest is in Brazil and goes for 157km!). Unlike the Brazil one you can’t swim at Marina Beach due to the strong currents and you wouldn’t want to sit on the beach as it is fairly dirty and then there is the wind. Best for photos only!

    We ventured up the lighthouse for a better view and were grateful for the lift taking us to the top. Nice view from our cage!
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  • Chennai City Tour - church and temples

    5 janvier 2024, Inde ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Next up we navigated some of the temples and monuments. First up the Santhome Basillica. Nice looking Church but we were walking in on someone’s wedding which didn’t seem right! Next up is the Kapaleeshwarer temple a Hindu temple which was closed at the time we arrived. It is built in the Dravidian style in the 7th century. The lake and surrounds weren’t the nicest and we will see a lot more of these temples later in the trip so happy to move on.

    The other two planned stops in our tour were so nondescript we didn’t bother taking photos, final stop Fort St George. Not a lot to see and the museum was shut but a European couple said the St Mary Church was worth a look so we ventured in. A pretty Church but fascinating to see the grave stones around the Church, mostly dating from the 1600s and 1700s including a few cross and bones symbols making us think that many pirates were buried here!
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  • Mamallapuram - Krishna's butter ball

    6 janvier 2024, Inde ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    We organised a driver through the Hotel who dropped us off. Price was the same as the quote we got through an online taxi firm but we decided to run with it. Not the nicest car and the driver barely spoke English though was a nice enough guy, not sure if we made the right decision there.

    First stop was Mamallapuram. A UNESCO heritage site for the very famous rock monuments dating from the 7th and 8th century. We arranged a guide so we make the most of the experience and it was worth it. Of course it rained again! The January average is 1 rainy day for the month - we have banked the next 4 years worth already and we are just starting!

    The first of the monument sites was Krishna’s Butterball. The balanced stone ball is completely natural and was given it’s name according to legend due to the lord Krishna often stealing butter from his mothers store. Over the years there has been many attempts to move the boulder due to worries that it may roll down. The first attempt was in 668AD the biggest attempt was in 1908 when the governor of the day used 7 elephants to try and move it but with no success. Kinda glad they failed!
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  • Mamallapuram - Tirumurthi Temple

    6 janvier 2024, Inde ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Through the kissing boulders was the next monument site the Tirumurthi Temple. It was a temple dedicated to the three gods, Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma however it is no longer able to be used as a practising temple as the fingers and noses were cut off by invaders thereby destroying the spirit of the site. Outside was the butter well, an enormous hand carved well that we would unlikely have been able to escape from if we fell in!En savoir plus

  • Mamallapuram - Arjuna's Penance

    6 janvier 2024, Inde ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Next up was The Descent of the Ganges (also known as ‘Arjuna’s Penance’) probably the most spectacular of all the monuments and one of the largest rock relief carvings in the world at 27m long and 10m high. The carvings tell many stories of Hindu myths including the triumph of good over evil and all the effort needed to bring the Ganges from the heavens to earth.En savoir plus

  • Mamallapuram - snacks

    6 janvier 2024, Inde ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    We found a Goli seller so we had to have one of those. We love Blueberry and Mango but now we have tried Pineapple, they simply are all delicious! On the way to the Shore Temple we saw a seller of Spring Potatoes, that’ll tide the kids over until dinner!En savoir plus