- Show trip
- Add to bucket listRemove from bucket list
- Share
- Day 1
- Wednesday, May 30, 2018 at 12:00 PM
- 🌧 22 °C
- Altitude: 2,159 ft
United StatesAsheville Regional Airport35°26’5” N 82°32’18” W
Home to London, May 30
May 30, 2018 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 22 °C
Well, we are finally at the Asheville airport praying that the plane is not delayed as we fly to Atlanta to connect with the international flight to Heathrow. Been quite a day so far given the continual rain showers we've experienced over the past several days. Alberto, the first named storm of the season, has dumped many an inch of rain causing the closure of I 40 due to a mud slide, as well as many side roads. We left early for the airport thinking that a reasonable delay could be dealt with...and we had one on I 40 with two of three lanes closed.
The plane for Atlanta left almost on time and here we sit, at gate F-8 with over an hour to chill and think about our walk over the next couple of weeks.
Took a pic of Arlene in Asheville during lunch and she gave me the evil eye for taking it, but memories are memories. Also note the O'Corn airlines picture that I saw during our concourse to concourse walk. Pretty neat. Note the two of us on the plane and a wonderful picture of the big jet we flew on.
I was forced to delete the initial pic of Arlene, but I still have my memories.
Will be on the plane shortly, landing tomorrow morning at 0720 if all goes well. Hope we have a decent meal tonight.
Sleep tight...we hope to get some shut eye too.Read more
- Show trip
- Add to bucket listRemove from bucket list
- Share
- Day 2
- Thursday, May 31, 2018
- ⛅ 21 °C
- Altitude: 52 ft
EnglandRiver Stour52°20’12” N 2°16’53” W
London to Chipping Campden, May 31
May 31, 2018 in England ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
So the flight crew just woke us up for breakfast. Early, way too early, but a new day and we saw bright sunshine outside the plane's window. I believe the absolute worst part of international travel is international travel. Hate not being able to stretch out, relax, and get a good night's sleep. Arlene is groggy and so am I. We now sit on a train for a couple of hours so perhaps a snooze or two will help overcome the jet lag.
We touched down at 0804, about 40 minutes late due to a late departure...no water to flush the toilets, so it was a very good delay. More later, and yes, the toilets worked great!
Had some difficulty getting the train tickets, but after asking several helpful folks, we got the tickets and were on our way. Had to change twice, but made it.
At Morton-in-Marsh, we fumbled around trying to get a taxi. Last taxi we called told us that she was at the train station and we should walk around the station to find her. We did and she told us the sights to see and some places to eat while we traveled to Chipping Campden.
At the B&B, we checked in early and got some good advice on where to eat. Eight Bells on Church Street gets my vote. We'll eat there tomorrow evening as we like what's on their menu. Also there is a mini "Olympics " tomorrow night, a local festival with fireworks and all of that so we plan to enjoy it. There is a candle light parade at 10 PM that goes by our B&B so we will have a ring side seat from our bedroom window!
Saw the old market place where they auctioned sheep years ago, and Saint James Church which is the official start of The Cotswold Way. Town is geogous to view with so many yellow sandstone colored buildings. This is a jewel!
We enjoyed dinner at Huxley's. Had an antipasti plate followed by tomato and herb soup, and topped it off with sharing a wonderful sticky toffee pudding. Better than what I remember from two years ago. It is absolutely the best dessert ever! All should try it. When we walked the Westmoreland Way two years ago, we could hardly wait for dinner to enjoy it. At one of our stops, Arlene was given two recipes that we have tried and it is yummy.
Time to close this day and catch up on some missed sleep. Tomorrow, more of Chipping Campden and more pics.Read more
- Show trip
- Add to bucket listRemove from bucket list
- Share
- Day 3
- Friday, June 1, 2018 at 9:14 AM
- ⛅ 16 °C
- Altitude: 482 ft
EnglandChipping Campden52°2’54” N 1°47’14” W
Chipping Campden, June 1
June 1, 2018 in England ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
Great to get a full night's sleep. Breakfast was a full English and very filling. Enjoyed conversation with a gentleman from the Bath area who was also walking The Cotswold Way so he shared a few tips and places to see in Bath. He was walking it in seven days which includes a couple of 20 mile days...more power to him.
After breakfast we strolled to the tourist information center, purchasing a Campden walking tour guide, and headed out to see the sights which included the Church of Saint James, the "official " beginning of The Cotswold Way and other local sights. We initially walked to the Cotswold Olimpick Games location, on Dover's Hill. We decided to check out the sights this am and not get caught up in the crowds that are beginning to build in Campden.
Ran into a gentleman who was finishing The Cotswold Way and he said the trail was tough from Broadway. Our task tomorrow, I guess, and we are just beginning. He walked in the reverse direction thus the trail markers point both ways so the trick is not to get confused about the direction of travel. Arlene has the guide book so if we get lost, well then...
After walking around, we decided to relax and get ready for the first of our walks tomorrow. Arlene packed, and repacked, until she got it right while I just made sure I was not going to leave something behind. Brought back memories of the Camino days when all went into the pack, post haste.
Dinner was at Eight Bells and they had Scrumpy Cider.
Sure packs a wallop, it does. I recall seeing an episode of Rick Steves' travels where he met the man who made Scrumpy Cider and they had a laugh while enjoying a mug. "Came from me grandfather's recipe" he said, and not bad at all. Anyway, we had fish and chips, and finished the entree with, guess what, another sticky toffee pudding. It really is not a puddimg, but a light cake with toffee sauce and a scoop of vanilla ice cream. What a meal!
The pictures: the altar in St. James, the arched pass-through in a coffee shop on High Street, an old car and a kids slide at the Olimpicks site, and two pics of High Street.
Thought we could stay awake until after the fireworks and parade, but no. Still very light at 9:35, but we are going dark. Tomorrow, our first ten miler.Read more
- Show trip
- Add to bucket listRemove from bucket list
- Share
- Day 4
- Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 12:00 PM
- ⛅ 19 °C
- Altitude: 492 ft
EnglandChipping Campden52°2’55” N 1°47’14” W
Chipping Campden to Stanton, June 2
June 2, 2018 in England ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C
Let's start with last night. Wow! After turning out the lights, the fireworks began and lasted for 15 minutes. We had a ringside seat from our room and captured a few pictures of the display. Then the bands started to play and walked, or did they march, the 3/4 mile with about two to three thousand party animals behind them. They came in two waves and marched right by our room to the town square where the stage was set, the barbecue was hot and the beer was cold. Quite a sight!
Some time later (we were getting no, and I do mean no, sleep), the party, or celebration, was over and the happy folks started to go home with loud talk and laughter, the cars racing along the narrow street, and horns telling all that no sleep is possible until later.
Then at four, daybreak. Quite a night and with a 10 miler today.
Well, we finally got some rest, but I woke up at 0400 due to the morning light and the chirping birds. Had to close the windows.
Breakfast was delicious and very filling...similar to yesterday, a full English. We left about 0900 and enjoyed the coolness of the morning, albeit a bit muggy (but no rain). Climbed a hill leaving Campden, then it leveled out with outstanding views and we motored along seeing Broadway Tower ahead, then the long downhill to the village of Broadway where we had coffee and scones. It was similar to Campden and the yellowish sandstone buildings made for a very pretty main street. After leaving Broadway, we had to enter a field through a kissing gate (yes, you read it correctly and you are supposed to kiss the person you are walking with so we have fun with that). At the gate, there was a sheep blocking the gate and I was determined not to kiss that thing, but to move him along. Stubborn sheep, would not move so I climbed the fence, then Arlene did the same, versus dealing with a smelly sheep. Anyway, we finally entered the trail and ran into a gentleman who told us the story of the Lancaster bomber crash near the Broadway Tower during WWII. He said that the last remaining bomber that was flight ready was to make a fly-by as this was a day of celebration of the valor of those killed in the crash. We were hoping to see the fly-by, but perhaps it did not take off. Anyway, we continued uphill (long uphill too) until it started down again and we found the B & B for tonight, The Shenberrow Hill. In years past, it was the site of an Iron Age hill fort. Digs uncovered relics of the past...pieces of pottery, bronze bracelets, and bone needles (bet they came from walkers picking their teeth after feasting on wooly mammoth meat at a local pub).
We arrived around 1530, assigned to a second floor room, and I lugged 200 pounds of luggage up the turning staircase. Nice to sit for a spell (tough day), and get cleaned up before dinner at the Mount Inn Pub. They have toothpicks made of bone :).
The meal was outstanding. We started with a salmon cake that was out of this world, then fish and chips. We both had huge pieces of fish leaving no room for sticky toffee. Oh well, we will eat less tomorrow and save room for dessert.
Lights out now...more tomorrow from the trail.Read more
- Show trip
- Add to bucket listRemove from bucket list
- Share
- Day 5
- Sunday, June 3, 2018 at 12:00 PM
- ⛅ 21 °C
- Altitude: 417 ft
EnglandStanton52°0’19” N 1°53’52” W
Stanton to Winchcombe, June 3
June 3, 2018 in England ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
Cloudy and foggy this morning. Once again, I awoke just about 0400 and heard the church bell chime four times so I assumed it was 0400. I recall that in Spain, the church bell sounded on the hour, but did not sound after 10 PM or so. Perhaps it did, but I was too tired and asleep to notice.
We met a couple from San Fran and another from Philadelphia at breakfast. One was walking towards Chipping Campden and the other was walking towards Bath. Once again, breakfast lasted us all day as it was filling and delicious.
After getting the luggage downstairs (I should be ready for some serious arm wrestling after we get home given the weight of the duffles), we left and walked through Stanton noticing the lovely stone work and the old red phone booth near the post office. We also checked out the church before walking out of town. Fields of green, trees full of leaves, and warm temperatures greeted us as we walked from field to field. We passed Stanway House, the church, and the gate house. For 1300 years, the Stanway House has changed hands but once (except through inheritance). Quite a record!
We passed through fields of sheep and cows, noting at one gate a sign that read "bull in the field". Well now, that gave us concern, but also got us to thinking that since we saw no cows, what kind of bull could it be? Seeing parked cars resulted in the conclusion that the bull in the field was nothing more than a meeting of local politicians. And we think we have problems in the States!
Met an English gentleman walking up a steep slope and he told us that he does a 10 miler with his wife every Sunday, but she had other things to do this week so he was by himself. We but wonder if that was true. Quite a rugged 10 miler.
Then we ran across a herd of sheep in the road before we stopped and chatted with a small group of walkers, two from Australia and one from Sweden. They were also going to Winchcombe but in the opposite direction...go figure. We did see them again at Hailes Abbey so small world after all.
We enjoyed coffee and scones at Hayes Fruit Farm, then continued on the trail soon arriving at Hailes Abbey.
Hailes Abbey consists of ruins today, being built in 1251 and destroyed at a time that the guide book has decided to keep secret. Across the road was the Church of Saint Nickolas. What's really interesting about this is that it was built in the 12th century and there are original wall paintings covering a large part of the interior. Amazing that they're not protected with hard plastic, or something, as one could touch them like the walls at home.
Pretty flowers and fields of sprouted corn marked our way and we arrived at the White Hart Inn in time for me to haul the bags up a set of stairs, through the door, up and down two sets of steps until I could get them into the room.
Dinner was at the White Hart. Fish and chips, and sausage for Arlene. We topped it off with a peckish sized brownie with ice cream, then walked down the street to locate the church, noting the gargoyles, and to figure out how to walk to the castle which we shall do in the morning.
All's well that ends well. Tomorrow is another day.Read more
- Show trip
- Add to bucket listRemove from bucket list
- Share
- Day 6
- Monday, June 4, 2018 at 12:00 PM
- ⛅ 17 °C
- Altitude: 338 ft
EnglandWinchcombe51°57’11” N 1°57’52” W
Winchcombe, June 4
June 4, 2018 in England ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
Good morning!
Our room is on the street side of the hotel (since 1554 per the brochure ) so there was a bit of noise, street noise, which we do not have at home. Well, I guess we have a little when the bears walk through the yard and the woodpeckers are making noise, but not too much.
Things are slow this AM given the short, but tough hike of yesterday. Cloudy at present and I hope it stays that way as it is cool. We've been told that there is a heat wave, unusual for this time of year, and we both are looking forward to normal, late spring temperatures. Perhaps today it will start.
Breakfast was a delight. After being shown the buffet, selecting food items and beginning to eat, the waiter came over with the menu and said we could choose from the selections...so two breakfasts! Arlene chose eggs benedict, and I had salmon with eggs and we are ready to go for a couple of days.
We walked to the castle (Sudeley Castle), and got there just as it was opening. A large place as one would expect and the owners still live there in the winter, with the exception that one lives there year round. They maintain apartments and close the castle during the winter to tourists We toured several rooms, one being a guest room that is used when guests stay over. Guess some of those weekend parties where they dress up in knights' armor can be fatiguing. Lovely grounds, and especially the gardens.
We are now following our daily ritual of coffee and scones so more shortly.
Next was St. Peter's Church, then the Ace Hardware Store (go figure how a castle compares to a visit to a modern hardware store?)
St. Peter's beginnings...798 AD. Destroyed and rebuilt several times, but survived. Lovely church.
We checked out the hardware store as Arlene wanted to purchase a few English spoons for coffee / tea. Not sure what is so special about an English spoon, but we are now the "proud" owners of four English spoons.
Next stop was a food store as I was shopping for dried apricots, but had to settle for dried pineapple and papaya. Good energy food for the hike.
Decided on Thai food for this evening (prawns sounded good) so we are chilling out, packing things for tomorrow and staying off the feet.
Dinner was excellent! Arlene enjoyed the stir fried beef and I had the stir fried prawns with cashews. No room for dessert, but we checked at the White Hart and we're told "no", so bummer to that.
Long walk tomorrow. Night, night.Read more
- Show trip
- Add to bucket listRemove from bucket list
- Share
- Day 7
- Tuesday, June 5, 2018 at 12:00 PM
- ⛅ 13 °C
- Altitude: 318 ft
EnglandWinchcombe51°57’12” N 1°57’52” W
Winchcombe to Dowdeswell, June 5
June 5, 2018 in England ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C
I've included two pictures from yesterday of the castle gardens. Very pretty and well maintained.
This morning we were up early as we had an eleven mile walk, plenty of uphills, and wanted to get out quickly after breakfast.
I went down early to check out the weather and noticed a meat delivery man taking a half hog into the sausage shop across the street. He carried it on his shoulder without any wrapping on it. Food safety? Then perhaps 30 minutes later, one of the sausage guys was carrying an arm full of packaged sausages up the street to (I presume) the co-op food store. Those sausages were good as Arlene had them for dinner and I had one for breakfast...and no one is sick yet.
Our walk out was quite cool and the uphill began in earnest shortly after passing The Bourne Construction Company. Recall the Bourne trilogy? Must have begun here in Winchcombe.
After passing a cricket field we entered a pasture of sheep (we see lots of sheep, and I do mean lots) and a couple of horses. A beautiful black stallion started to approach me, stuck his nose on my arm making me quite uncomfortable then proceeded to "nose" me up the hill. Arlene got a laugh, but I was worried about being bitten; or worse, losing my hat. I finally stopped to confront him and he stuck his nose where I could rub his forehead. Seemed friendly enough and he must have smelled salt on my pack as I had it in Spain and for sure I sweated while carrying it. This was quite an experience.
We soon approached an ancient burial mound...Belas Knap from the Neolithic period. Per the signage, it dates to 5000 years ago, or 3000 BC. Excavations found several skeletons and radio carbon dated them to that time period. Makes me feel young. The site was very well preserved, perhaps because it was far out in the country and uphill for most.
Our walk continued and we had coffee at a golf course clubhouse on Cleeve Hill...the highest point on the Cotswold Way. Guys playing there must have mountain goat DNA in their blood as it was a very long course, plenty of uphills, and most who I saw were wearing skull caps and jackets, and carrying their clubs. It was quite breezy that high, with a 360 degree view.
Beautiful scenery surrounded us and though the day was cloudy, we could see for miles and miles given the elevation of the hills. Saw a couple of joggers on the golf course and they passed us flying, going downhill towards the butterfly sanctuary.
We finally reached our pickup point. The B & B we are staying in was a taxi ride away from the trail so we had a short wait for the taxi. Lovely B & B and just a short walk outside town.
Dinner was a 28 minute walk away and we enjoyed salmon that was excellent. Of course, one must remember that I am extremely hungry and will eat anything...well, just about. Should be another cool walk in the AM. Hope to be on the trail shortly after 0800 as we need a taxi to the trailhead.
Enjoy the pictures.Read more
- Show trip
- Add to bucket listRemove from bucket list
- Share
- Day 8
- Wednesday, June 6, 2018 at 12:00 PM
- ⛅ 15 °C
- Altitude: 407 ft
EnglandCharlton Kings51°53’29” N 2°1’58” W
Dowdeswell to Birdlip, June 6
June 6, 2018 in England ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
Yep, another cool start and the food for breakfast was yummy. Out hostess told us about her son...he was in the army and stationed at the British Embassy in Washington, DC. Left his kids in England at an international school with grandma as guardian. Tough on the kids, but Europeans tend to do more of that than Americans...at least it seems so to me.
The taxi was a few minutes late, but he whisked us away and we arrived at the trailhead in short order. The trail started heavily uphill through trees that bordered Lineover Wood (think old growth forest). A very pretty area, the climb was steep, and the field to the left of us was full of sheep. We had magnificent views of the surrounding area from the escarpment (think ridgeline of the Blue Ridge Mountains). We thoroughly enjoyed the hike, stopping three times for refreshment, the first at a converted bus. It had six tables and a full kitchen. So here's the story. We were on the trail walking along a field separated from the road by thick bushes when a break occurred and I glimpsed two men eating. Not sure where they were eating as the bus was not totally visible, but a sign soon appeared advertizing the Cotswold Diner. Well, we bounced off the trail and slid into a seat to enjoy a cup of coffee and a muffin (no scones). Nice break!
The second break was after Leckhampton Hill where we just missed the Devil's Chimney which was at an old quarry. This was a bistro located at a school for the handicapped and Arlene had carrot and cumin soup while I thought I was ordering a parfait, but what I got were three small balls of ice cream and a cookie. Something about English that makes it a difficult language to learn...but perhaps one day.
Our walk continued towards Crickley Hill which is the site if a Neolithic period camp. This was one of the most interesting sites along the walk. Building sites were located and I wish we had more time to explore, but Birdlip was calling us and the Royal George Hotel had all of our luggage. The day had turned out pretty warm; the end of the walk seemed inviting. So the third break occurred after Crickley Hill and at the Air Balloon. Wine and a Guinness made for an excellent break and that provided the horsepower for the rest of the walk.
The Royal George was a pleasant sighting upon leaving the woods (and me asking for directions).
Enjoy the pictures.
Dinner was sole wrapped in prosciutto and veggies with sticky toffee pudding for dessert.Read more
- Show trip
- Add to bucket listRemove from bucket list
- Share
- Day 9
- Thursday, June 7, 2018 at 12:00 PM
- ⛅ 15 °C
- Altitude: 115 ft
EnglandLong Eaton52°54’0” N 1°16’0” W
Birdlip to Painswick, June 7
June 7, 2018 in England ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
The Royal George just about did us in.
Food was OK, but we both felt a bit under the weather this AM. Arlene was worse than I was, but she ate more of the hollandaise sauce than I did. At least it is not food poisoning, just an upset stomach.
We had a so-so breakfast at 0700, out the door by 0800 and walking downhill. The way out of town was a bit pecarious as we had to walk along a narrow and curvy road until we reached the trailhead. Cars were hauling and we had a very uneven shoulder to navigate....we both made it.
The trail immediately started downhill (oh, what a delight, but we would pay dearly later) and was a very woodsy trail. I recall what happens to the first walker in the morning that walks a woodsy trail...yep, a face full of spider webs and my hat was covered.
After a few minutes, we stopped as Arlene wanted to check out a side trail so I sat on a rock (being the patient person that I am), and up the trail trots a red fox. We saw each other about the same time and the fox did a 360 as casually as a thief in a jewelry store. Nice surprise so early in the morning.
We continued along the woodsy walk seeing a deer jump in front of us and I flushed a pheasant out of the bushes. Scared me out of my second skin and Arlene got to view his upward flight while I was ducking for cover.
We passed some great views through the trees of the valley below and really enjoyed the cool morning air.
A local running club must have had a 1/2 marathon utilizing the trail, and started such that the runners were running south to north (we are walking north to south). We noticed many, many temporary trail markers providing directions and from the looks of the muddy footprints in the trail, the runners were covered in mud from head to foot. The one part of the trail they did not run up (but we walked up) was the portion to the top of Coopers Hill. This would have been a killer as it did us in.
Amazing what a short break and a sip of water will do for the recovery after a hard effort.
So we continued after the brief recovery stop, walking through a golf course that had posted signs "traverse at your own risk". That gave us pause, but then we saw no golfers, so across the fairway we motored, getting to the far side, to the service road which took us away from the course and down into Painswick.
We are at the Troy House B & B for two nights and our hosts are very nice and accommodating. Dinner reservations are made, they are doing our laundry and there is an honor system for beer and snacks in the quite large room that we have. Arlene is enjoying a well deserved nap and I am not too far from that as well. After the rest day tomorrow, we finish with six straight days of walking. I can imagine that they will be walks to remember.
We have been very weather fortunate so far, but the forecast is not looking quite so accommodating for a dry walk into Bath next Thursday. We shall see.
Dinner tonight.was at the Cardynham Bistro in Painswick. It came highly recommended and it deserves its appraisal. Garlic toast as an appetizer was hot, soft and delicious. The main course of beef stroganoff, the house specialty, was the best I've had in years (we both enjoyed the same thing), and to wrap up the meal, the sticky toffee pudding was truly outstanding. Now to let things settle down as tomorrow arrives too quickly with a full stomach.Read more
- Show trip
- Add to bucket listRemove from bucket list
- Share
- Day 10
- Friday, June 8, 2018 at 12:00 PM
- ⛅ 15 °C
- Altitude: 482 ft
EnglandGloucestershire51°47’14” N 2°11’38” W
Painswick - June 8
June 8, 2018 in England ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
Our hostess is a "hoot". She's been to America many times with her husband and has stories to tell. Basically, she loves it and would like to move there, but then her grandchildren are here so it would be a challenge to visit with them.
The B & B is loaded with signage she brought back from the States as the first picture indicates. John Wayne is on her wall (not in my pictures) with a typical John Wayne quote, but then it's all in fun.
A cloudy day and ideal for walking around town.
After breakfast, we walked down the street (Painswick is built on hills) towards Saint Mary's Church looking for the tourist info center (open Monday to Friday, but closed this Friday and no explanation) as it was located in the grave diggers cottage (perhaps closed due to grave digging). Anyway, the church was quite beautiful and its history goes back to the 1300's. During the English Civil War, cannons damaged the bell tower and one can see the damage today (just below and to the left of the clock). The cemetery also contained a war memorial, for both world wars.
We visited the few shops that were open and ran into a gentleman in his 80's whose wife was born here and remembered when, in 1941, the Germans dropped eight bombs which destroyed most of the homes along Friday Street. Quite a memory as she was about six when the bombing occurred.
We had coffee and scones at a cafe, checked out the menus of several restaurants, but decided to again make reservations at the bistro as the food was so good and our hostess recommended also. We did not care for the other menus that we saw.
Walked by the Painswick Hotel (told that it is a five star hotel) and enjoyed the view before we walked to the Painswick Rococo Gardens (the only rococo gardens in England). If you do not know what a rococo garden is, we challenge you to Google it. We enjoyed the walk, the flowers and the structures. It dates to the 1740's.
Once again, dinner was a delight. Chicken stuffed with brie and ham for Arlene while I enjoyed pork tenderloin and potatoes. We can get used to this!Read more
- Show trip
- Add to bucket listRemove from bucket list
- Share
- Day 11
- Saturday, June 9, 2018 at 12:00 PM
- ⛅ 15 °C
- Altitude: 482 ft
EnglandGloucestershire51°47’14” N 2°11’38” W
Painswick to King's Stanley, June 9
June 9, 2018 in England ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
Excellent breakfast. We are coming around to the thought that we are being served too much food. Arlene ate about half of her omlette and I struggled with a very large pancake...and I was asked if I would like another. Very good, but enough is enough. She even gave us two bananas to carry to eat later. We both agree that the Troy House is outstanding and one of a kind. There are 43 places to stay in Painswick and she must have the best.
We walked down the street leading out of town, following the trail signs when we saw, running towards us, the first of 1300 runners who were doing a double marathon...all the way to Broadway Tower. We passed it last Saturday and those folks have 52 miles to run along the Cotswold Way. We're glad that we're not running. We cheered them on, holding the gates open for them and they were so appreciative that people with our funny accents would do that. What a blast to watch them.
We told them all that they were looking good (not really, but nice to hear as we've run many races and it's always nice to hear the cheers from the crowd) so one runner yells that he had never been told that he was looking good and I yelled that we occasionally tell little white lies. His day was ruined!
After all 1300 runners passed, we had the trail mainly to ourselves for a couple of hours, enjoying the views until two runners came blasting past us running uphill. At the top, they paused to wait for others and we inquired if they were training for next years Broadway Tower run. They said that there was a relay race next Saturday along the Cotswold Way that covered the entire length (102 miles) and they were part of one of the 113 relay teams. Each team member runs 20k (12.4 miles). That will be a tough race!
After enjoying the 360 views at the Haresfield Beacon (an old Roman fort), we crossed a field...there to see was an ice cream stand. ICE CREAM ON A HOT DAY! The owner of the stand (said he owns three) works six months of the year and relaxes the rest. Said he was once a paramedic, but did not like the hours so he initially tried a stand, it worked out, and he purchased two more. Nice that he can enjoy life and the outside during the summer months.
We had a couple of horses pass us in a forest, followed the trail through a vineyard, across the train tracks, across an ancient canal, pass an old (1891) textile mill and stopped at the Kings Head Pub for some refreshment before arriving at our B & B. Time to clean up and get ready for dinner...the very best time of any day (perhaps breakfast is equally important).
We had to take a taxi to the Old Fleece Inn as the distance was too great to walk. Pretty good food so the tank is again filled and we await breakfast in the AM.
Sleep tight and don't let the bed bugs bite!Read more
- Show trip
- Add to bucket listRemove from bucket list
- Share
- Day 12
- Sunday, June 10, 2018 at 12:00 PM
- ⛅ 17 °C
- Altitude: 164 ft
EnglandNympsfield51°43’40” N 2°16’36” W
King's Stanley to Dursley, June 10
June 10, 2018 in England ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
There is always a tough hiking day for many reasons...weather, pack weight, shoes, mud, terrain and / or hills. Today was tough due to hills...steep up and steeper down. The hike was only around 7 miles, and I say that because we always wander around a bit so the mileage is longer than what the guidebook suggests. Anyway, I am ahead so let's go to the beginning of the day.
Breakfast was not up to the quality of the Troy House, nor were the accomodations, but acceptable to us as this was a one night stay. Arlene asked for a more direct route to the trailhead as we had to leave the trail for the B & B and our hostess suggested making a right out of the drive, go straight and we would find it. OK, we did that and came to an intersection of three trails. One went left up some stairs, one went straight and was marked as a restricted way, and the third branched to the right marked as a public walking trail. I had an idea that the Cotswold Way was up and to our left, but we first took the right side trail as it appeared to climb and circle the hill, but soon it curved down and to the right so a bad choice. Next we tried the restricted way which was muddy and narrow. We saw a runner running down the trail so I thought he was coming from the Cotswold Way...we turned to walk up the trail and shortly I noticed footprints on the lefthand embankment so I climbed it, hand over hand and saw trail supports. Wonderful, "come on up Arlene", but she said "no". Soon she saw another runner running down the restricted access way and he said to walk back the mile we had already come, so I told Arlene I would meet her at the foot of the stairs that we had seen earlier. As I was walking along the trail towards the stairs, I came across a stile and on it was the Cotswold Way emblem. Success at last! She climbed the stairs and we were on our way seeing some outstanding views from the hillsides.
We walked by the picnic area near Frocester Hill to enjoy the remarkable views and met an English couple who were out walking and enjoying the views as well. We discussed the Cotswold Way and their enjoyment of it (these folks must have been in their late 70's or even the early 80's). When the question came up as to our origin, they responded with how they enjoyed seeing Bryson City and driving the length of the Blue Ridge Parkway several years ago when they were visiting the States. Made for more interesting conversation.
Our way took us by two more ancient burial sites dating to the Neolithic period, up the side of Cam Long Down (the picture does not do justice to the steepness of the trail) to see the distant cities and terrain, then down again to enter the really neat village of Dursley where we saw the old market house built in 1738, had a quick coffee and boiled fruitcake at a streetside cafe, and walked through the car free pedestrian area with shops galore. We went into a grocery store looking for a pumice stone and noticed some ostrich breasts for sale in the meat counter. Never tried ostrich before, but it will have to wait as the grill is not here and we are eating Italian tonight. Ahhh, another meal to contemplate.
Our B & B is quite nice, our hostess was pleasant even though we were early, and is making dinner reservations for us. Breakfast is also planned and she gave us a tip on the walk for tomorrow. All that before 2 PM.
The Italian meal was outstanding and we are both stuffed. Arlene enjoyed the penna pasta with chicken and I had a seafood risotto. Dessert was a custard, panacotta, and delicious. We need to really retire and do this all the time.
Tomorrow is another opportunity to sample more wonderful scenery and food.Read more
- Show trip
- Add to bucket listRemove from bucket list
- Share
- Day 13
- Monday, June 11, 2018 at 12:00 PM
- ☀️ 21 °C
- Altitude: 279 ft
EnglandDursley51°40’52” N 2°21’29” W
Dursley to Wotton-under-Edge, June 11
June 11, 2018 in England ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
A very nice breakfast, a very nice host, and two other guests enjoying a 40th high school reunion.
A most enjoyable way to travel in England as we've met the nicest people and received much appreciated assistance. Today was no exception.
After breakfast, and after lugging the kitchen sink down stairs, we left with a full stomach and headed uphill (we are always walking uphill, or so it seems) towards Stinchcombe Hill and the golf course. A tough uphill walk on a full stomach. *#@$##. At the top, we ran into a ladies foursome ready to tee off, but they detected a non-British accent and chatted with us for a bit, then we walked off to see the sights. A long downhill opened into a series of fields where we could see Tyndale Monument, erected to honor William Tyndale who translated the bible into English. A long pull to climb up the hill, but before we did that, another story.
We were walking into North Nibley reading the guidebook which said to walk along The Street. That caught us by surprise...the street? What was the name of the street that we were walking along? Cannot believe the street sign that we soon passed as it was indeed, "The Street". With all the locations in England and all the famous people over the years...to call it The Street! Such modesty.
Anyway, we were looking for a coffee and scone cafe, the Black Horse B & B was mentioned in the book, but it was closed. Bummer twice over!
While discussing our predicament, a young man was making deliveries and Arlene asked if he knew of a coffee shop that would be open. He replied yes, that he worked at the Nibley House and he said to walk back the way we had come and at a corner, to make a left, then go by the nursery and knock on the kitchen door. He mentioned a name, but I cannot remember. Anyway, we briefly discussed not walking back, but decided to give it a try. I knocked on the kitchen door (I would call it a back door), an elderly lady came to the door and I relayed the story. She looked pleased and invited us to have a seat at the outside table, enjoy the view and she would brew us a pot. She ran a B & B so it was not quite like knocking on a private home door.
We had an entertaining conversation and learned that she had lived there for 55 years and her husband had been there longer. We were invited in to have a look and received the royal treatment. This was special! The house was rebuilt in 1763 so you get an idea as to its age.
Afterwards, we walked down the road to St. Martin Church which dated to the 15th century (and it needed some TLC).
We carried on and climbed the hill to see Tyndale Monument. Quite a view from the top, then along a reasonably flat stretch meeting four folks out walking the dogs. They asked us about Trump, how concerned they were and we shared our concerns as well. No guns were drawn so we felt safe to be Americans :)
Our way continued through the wood passing the Brackenbury Ditches (an old fort dating to the Iron Age), fields and distant views, then down the trail passing Wolton Hill, a commemorative circle of trees now called the Jubilee Plantation which provided more outstanding views of Wotton-under-Edge.
Once we got into the village, we were discussing the directions to the B & B when our host drives up and asks us if we wanted a lift. "Sure do" was our response.
We got there, were shown around, offered fruitcake and beverage and told to make ourselves at home.
We did!
We later walked into town to the tourist info center, got the story on the large painted hares (rabbits to us), checked out an ice cream shop, the alms house, and visited the church of Saint Mary the Virgin.
We are tired and looking forward to a nice meal provided by our hostess.
And a very good and special meal it was as we had dinner with our hosts. Conversation was interesting and we had a most enjoyable time.
Tomorrow is the longest walk...13 miles so we are winding down.Read more
- Show trip
- Add to bucket listRemove from bucket list
- Share
- Day 14
- Tuesday, June 12, 2018 at 12:00 PM
- ⛅ 16 °C
- Altitude: 344 ft
EnglandWotton-under-Edge51°38’17” N 2°21’41” W
Wotton-under-Edge, Old Sodbury, June 12
June 12, 2018 in England ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
Another excellent breakfast with a little action to boot. While sitting at the breakfast table, our host ran outside with a scoped rifle and bi-pod feet which he proceeded to balance on the stone ledge, and aimed at something. He shortly came in without firing a shot and his wife said he was squirrel hunting. Pretty pesky squirrels and he wanted to get rid of them, but he said he did not have a good clean shot. The squirrel lives another day and out of the stew pot that was planned for him!
We got away a little before eight and had a cool and chilly walk downhill through town (we love those downhill starts), beside the church, the creek, and started the proverbial uphill track. Glad it was cool!
We followed the trail which was partially on the road, being careful to walk slowly due to the toads and frogs (see the pictures :).
There was also some fog which we both were delighted with as it made the uphill effort much easier as it was cooler.
The trail continued with excellent views on all sides. We soon came to a deep, woodsy and dark track described as an "unquiet mystery ". Go figure. Did not see anything mysterious about it except for the girl walking uphill and the high schooler who was running downhill. They both looked quite normal and not mysterious at all. Those English travel book writers are always exaggerating!
We noticed farmers working to move fencing and Arlene suggested that they move the cows and leave the fence alone. The farmer, with perhaps a bit of sarcasm, said that he had not thought of that. Sounds like the Irish versus the English. About an hour later, we again saw them working in another field with the cows partially blocking our path. Arlene said that she liked the cows better when they were further away, and he said that he liked them best when they were between two slices of bread. Meal versus safety, but I prefer the meal idea.
We continued walking along, just the two of us with an occasional hiker walking the other way. The fields were green and some were overgrown making walking a bit difficult. At one point, I almost stepped on a bird that must have been injured as it did not move so we captured a picture and carefully moved away. Nature does what nature does and who are we to interfere?
We walked beside Somersault tower which was built in 1846, had lunch in Hawksbury Upton (much better than we could have imagined), walked along Bath Lane, entered Horton, met an English walker who we walked with for a couple of miles and saw him again enjoying wine at dinner, saw lots of sheep and cows, visited the church in Old Sodbury, walked through the Sodbury Fort (dated to 577 AD), and reached our destination for the day...The Dog Inn. A long day and our dogs were really tired.
After relaxing, we had a wonderful dinner of fish and chips, and steak and ale pie. We were both stuffed and no room for dessert...that is a triple bummer.Read more
- Show trip
- Add to bucket listRemove from bucket list
- Share
- Day 15
- Wednesday, June 13, 2018 at 12:00 PM
- ⛅ 19 °C
- Altitude: 384 ft
EnglandChipping Sodbury51°31’56” N 2°21’26” W
Old Sodbury to Pennsylvania, June 13
June 13, 2018 in England ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C
We are moving slowly this AM. The 13 miles yesterday were tough.
Coffee in the room was eye opening and the breakfast at The Dog Inn was at least filling given that we are not wide awake yet. Yesterday, upon our arrival, I asked the bartender if people "woof, woof" when they arrive. "No", she said..."you were the first today". Made me feel real proud to be a turkey in a house of dogs!
So we're having fun and today's walk is short...just nine miles. We shall see if the rain holds off.
This part of the Cotswold Way is a little flatter (rolling hills, not steep mountains), and we started our day walking along rolling hills with some geogous views.
We walked pass the Dodington House...unseen from the path, but we saw the surrounding land and the "moat" that was in front of the main drive. History tells us that it was built in 1795 for a man that made great wealth "on the backs of slaves in the West Indies".
Our day continued to Tormarton, a small village with the Church of St. Mary Magdalene. We visited the interior and the stain glass was spectacular.
We then walked through a series of fields with borders made of new stone. They used the yellowish sandstone that we saw earlier in the walk. Very striking in appearance. Later on we ran into some volunteers who were repairing a stone wall and we were told that it is a very expensive wall to build today given the cost of labor and material.
Our walk went along the scarp edge once again, and perhaps for the last time. We walked around a large deer park that surrounded Dyrham House (the restored home of William lll, built around 1695 or so and maintained by the National Trust). I went up to the gate to take a picture and commented to a couple that were inside that I hoped I could avoid the bars. He said that he would be happy to take a picture for me...and then we realized we has seen each other a few days ago. He and his wife drove the Blue Ridge Parkway not so long ago and we had a discussion about that when we first met. What a coincidence!
As we crossed several fields, some contained sheep and cows, Arlene saw a grouse (or was it a pheasant?). Cameras on cell phones would not do it justice, but I was able to capture a pretty good picture on the better camera with the zoom lens.
We are staying in Pennsylvania (yes we are), at the Cornflake Cottage, and it is a delightful B & B. The hostess made us coffee, provided muffins, and the room has a sitting area downstairs, called The Snug. She will drive us to dinner this evening.
Good dinner of chicken cooked in a pastry shell, veggies, dessert and wine. Hard to beat.
Tomorrow is the last walk. Rain is expected. We've had no rain while here so getting a little in the AM will not dampen our spirits.Read more
- Show trip
- Add to bucket listRemove from bucket list
- Share
- Day 16
- Thursday, June 14, 2018 at 12:00 PM
- 🌬 16 °C
- Altitude: 627 ft
EnglandCold Ashton51°27’32” N 2°22’13” W
Pennsylvania to Bath, June 14
June 14, 2018 in England ⋅ 🌬 16 °C
We really have been fortunate with the weather. It rained some during the night; I could hear what I thought was a squirrel in the attic, but it must have been rain. Guess I was thinking about the Wooton-under-Edge attempted squirrel assult that our host was contemplating.
We had a wonderful breakfast and since it was not raining (and did not rain the entire day), we only needed our rain pants due to the wet weeds, and we each wore a rain jacket...just in case. Poncho stayed in the backpacks.
Shortly after leaving the B & B, we had to cross a very busy highway that required 10 minutes of waiting, but we left no bodies with tire tracks. We crossed it again later, but did not experience as much difficulty.
Views were as good as those that we've seen throughout the trip. One unusual sight occurred when we walked through what we thought was a wheat field. There was a very distinct path and the wind was whipping the tall plants in a wave fashion...like going to a ball game and the fans do the "wave". This was natural and we just enjoyed the motion for a few minutes.
We passed a couple of men working on an old stone wall that they estimated to be over 250 years old. They were Cotswold Wardens and volunteered their time and talents to keep the trail looking good as well as to preserve the English history.
Further on, we came across an ancient battlefield. In 1643, there was quite a battle that changed much of England...we'll let you read about it in the picture. There is a monument there, built in 1720.
Crossing the field, we noticed the sheep all in a line. Lunch requires a certain amount of discipline so the sheep were with the program. Typical British, I guess.
We saw another of the Iron Age Forts, this one was Little Down Hill Fort and the last that we will see. Amazing that such a large amount of history goes almost unnoticed as there were no markers, we determined where it was from the guidebook.
We had our first good look at Bath from Prospect Stile, and it was 5k away as the crow flies. A wonderful pause from our methodical walk, we sat and enjoyed the many views. Our walk would soon be over and we wanted to savor the moment.
From here, we walked into and across Weston (down and back up), what we imagine as a bedroom community and had a bit to go to reach Bath. We motored on finally seeing Queen Victoria's monument, then walking in front of the Royal Crescent. I'll include pictures of Bath over the next two days, but we wanted to remember our journey as a series of beautiful samples of nature...and we saw many such samples.
Finally, we saw the Bath Abbey and the "official" end of the Cotswold Way.
Dinner was Italian and dessert was Panna Cotta, a custard like Mexican flan, but the flavorings were much different. Hope we can try this when we get home.
Tomorrow will be a late wakeup as the dogs need a rest.Read more
- Show trip
- Add to bucket listRemove from bucket list
- Share
- Day 17
- Friday, June 15, 2018 at 12:00 PM
- ⛅ 17 °C
- Altitude: 66 ft
EnglandBath51°23’2” N 2°22’13” W
Bath, June 15
June 15, 2018 in England ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
Arriving in Bath yesterday gave us a bit of a cultural shock having been in the woods and the smaller communities for the past two weeks. We were better this morning. Nothing like a solid breakfast to chipper the spirits.
After breakfast, we decided to do laundry in the PM, to take advantage of the early morning schedules and visit the places we wanted to see as the weatherman was calling for rain tomorrow morning.
Bath was known as Aquae Sulis to the Romans, meaning Waters of the Sun. The Baths consist of four main features...the Sacred Spring, the Roman Temples, the Roman Bathhouse, and the Thermal Spring. Our tour included each one. The audio guide steered us through an amazing maze of twists and turns providing the history of the Baths. We walked just above the ruins on a metal walkway and parallel to where the ancient Romans must have walked 2000 plus years ago.
The Roman engineering was a marvel as they could drain the baths, clean them, and refill via a series of gates. The dirty water was "flushed" into the Avon River (environmental engineering was not one of their things). The water must have a fair amount of iron in it as the drain that we could see was very rust colored. Believe it or not, the drains are still working as designed and built centuries ago.
During the archeological work, thousands of coins were found and are now displayed. Their coin manufacturing was darn good given the evident detail of the coins.
We spent three hours roaming around the Baths and then grabbed a bite at an outside cafe (coffee, pain au chocolate, and pain au raisin. This is Arlene's spelling as I would use the Spanish word for bread which is pan). Good to sit and enjoy the sights of tourists walking around looking very lost and confused, but we knew exactly where we were and where we were going :).
Next stop was the Pulteney Bridge. One could walk over the bridge and never know that it was a bridge, but seen from the side, it became evident. Tour boats were moving lost tourists up and down the river.
The Bath Abbey was a work of art. The stain glass and the ceiling were quite exquisite. The Abbey was founded as a convent in 676 AD, then in 1090, the Norman Cathedral was built, and in 1499 the current Abbey was built replacing the ruins of the Norman Cathedral.
Last, but not least, is the Royal Crescent built to house royalty (perhaps we should go there and introduce ourselves). It is a huge building built in the 18th century and reminds me of the I G Farben building in Frankfurt, Germany that I recall measuring for painting when I was stationed there in 1969.
Queen Victoria's monument was also on the list of things to see and we saw that too.
After laundry, Arlene treated me to a half pint and she enjoyed a wine. Hit the spot!
Dinner was at another Italian restaurant just a short walk away (I am so looking forward to driving again). Martini's was excellent and we will have another dinner with them tomorrow...our last night in Bath, as well as Great Britain.Read more
- Show trip
- Add to bucket listRemove from bucket list
- Share
- Day 18
- Saturday, June 16, 2018 at 12:00 PM
- ⛅ 14 °C
- Altitude: 66 ft
EnglandBath51°23’2” N 2°22’13” W
Bath, June 16
June 16, 2018 in England ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C
Our last day! What should we do?
Number one (perhaps two) on the list was to fuel up for a day of walking and making sure we didn't miss anything.
After breakfast, we walked to the train station to get our tickets for tomorrow and to orient ourselves in case time was short. Next was the walking tour, but after listening for a few minutes we decided to check out a few other places as this was an overview and we felt that we had accomplished that.
We walked down Great Pulteney Street towards the Holburne Museum and the gardens, stopping at shops along the way. The gardens were very nice and the flowers (few that there were) were very colorful on a cloudy day. Then for a coffee, and to really finish this off, a hot chocolate and scone at the Bath Bun Tea Shoppe.
Along the walk back to the B & B to drop off a few items, we passed a weekend bowling contest (Bath Boules) at one of the green parks that exist throughout the city.
The Royal Crescent (Number 1 is a museum) was a step back in time. Built in the mid-1700's and sold to individuals, some units today are privately owned and occupied while others are rented as apartments. Number 1 is a museum that contains period furniture and excellent narrations of what we were seeing. They lived well, but we like the times that we are living in.
Love the dog in the exercise cage used to turn the meat on the spit!
Dinner turned out to be a real treat. We enjoyed another Italian meal at the Martini Restaurant and the waiter made it very special. Seldom have we run into someone who has such a love for his work that it shows like this individual. Very prompt with our requests, the water glasses were always full, used dishes were promptly removed, and the bill came quickly. He was singing (this man was a real Italian) and having a good time serving others. Of course, he did mention that if I wanted to leave a tip, this is what I needed to do when we paid the bill. He deserved it.
Taxi is reserved to pick us up at 0700 for a 10 minute ride to the train station. It will be good to get home even though we have both thoroughly enjoyed our trip to England.Read more
- Show trip
- Add to bucket listRemove from bucket list
- Share
- Day 19
- Sunday, June 17, 2018 at 1:00 PM
- ⛅ 16 °C
- Altitude: 69 ft
EnglandBath51°23’1” N 2°22’13” W
Bath to Home, June 17
June 17, 2018 in England ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
The day to go home has arrived!
We're looking forward to sleeping in our own bed tonight even though Arlene is insisting that it will be tomorrow. Something about the Irish that I will never understand.
Yesterday, we stopped by a food store for a couple of bananas since the B & B did not serve until 0815 and we needed to be out the door by 0700. Taxi was right on time and in less than 10 minutes we were at a very closed train station. Sign said 0745, but they opened early (perhaps just for us?).
While on the platform waiting for the 0758, it was announced that it was 14 minutes late...a freight train had the lead so we watched it come crawling by carrying new rail for train track repair.
We arrived at London Paddington a couple of minutes late, but with plenty of time to find the right platform for the train to Heathrow. Got there, found the right elevator to get the kitchen sink up to the security area, went through initial security, checked the bags, got through personal security, the wc's, food, gate entry check, and finally, permission to board!
Here we sit, waiting, for almost nine hours of confined torture to travel to Atlanta. Quite a change from the carefree walking from village to village and breathing fresh air with an occasional whiff of a farm animal or two (perhaps three or four?).
As Arlene was creating her "lessons learned", I was creating the trip memories and capturing them in print. Glad many of you were able to share our day by day events and it really is easier than waiting to do it all at once from notes.
My lessons learned include the following...
1 Be better prepared; next time I will lift more weights in preparation for hauling the sink up and down many flights of narrow, steep, and curvy stairs.
2 Let Arlene have both duffles as she has most of the space anyway. I'll just wear my one set of clothes and wash them daily.
3 Take more dance classes so it will be easier to navigate around the animals and field litter.
4 Let Arlene do all the talking as my accent just gets in the way.
5 Practice my voice lessons so I can better imitate the sheep, cows, horses, and dogs that I enjoy talking to.
On a more serious note, this was one of those precious few times when we were able to slow down and really smell the flowers. We are so busy with our individual projects that we just do not take the time, or have the time to take, for ourselves. We walked hand in hand at times chatting, and other times I led, or Arlene led, and we were both quiet and enjoying the sights, the sounds, and the smells of nature. Great to spend time together enjoying all that nature provides.
We are in Atlanta. A quiet and easy flight. Just a four hour wait and we will be on the final leg. Should be home in time to get some sleep today.
We walked over 386,000 steps (me, and Arlene had 389,000...she has shorter legs) since we left home on May 30. Quite a lot and we relished each and every one.
Life is short, enjoy the journey!Read more















































































































