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The Cotswold WayThe Cotswold Way
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The Cotswold Way

May - June 2018
This is a 105 mile walk starting in Chipping - Campden and finishing in Bath, England. It includes many of the quaint English countryside villages that had their hayday during the wool and sheep years when quality wool came from this area. Read more
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  • TravelerThe Cotswold Way
    Day 1

    Home to London, May 30

    May 30, 2018 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 22 °C

    Well, we are finally at the Asheville airport praying that the plane is not delayed as we fly to Atlanta to connect with the international flight to Heathrow. Been quite a day so far given the continual rain showers we've experienced over the past several days. Alberto, the first named storm of the season, has dumped many an inch of rain causing the closure of I 40 due to a mud slide, as well as many side roads. We left early for the airport thinking that a reasonable delay could be dealt with...and we had one on I 40 with two of three lanes closed.

    The plane for Atlanta left almost on time and here we sit, at gate F-8 with over an hour to chill and think about our walk over the next couple of weeks.

    Took a pic of Arlene in Asheville during lunch and she gave me the evil eye for taking it, but memories are memories. Also note the O'Corn airlines picture that I saw during our concourse to concourse walk. Pretty neat. Note the two of us on the plane and a wonderful picture of the big jet we flew on.

    I was forced to delete the initial pic of Arlene, but I still have my memories.

    Will be on the plane shortly, landing tomorrow morning at 0720 if all goes well. Hope we have a decent meal tonight.

    Sleep tight...we hope to get some shut eye too.    Read more

  • TravelerThe Cotswold Way
    Day 2

    London to Chipping Campden, May 31

    May 31, 2018 in England ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    So the flight crew just woke us up for breakfast. Early, way too early, but a new day and we saw bright sunshine outside the plane's window. I believe the absolute worst part of international travel is international travel. Hate not being able to stretch out, relax, and get a good night's sleep. Arlene is groggy and so am I. We now sit on a train for a couple of hours so perhaps a snooze or two will help overcome the jet lag.

    We touched down at 0804, about 40 minutes late due to a late departure...no water to flush the toilets, so it was a very good delay. More later, and yes, the toilets worked great!

    Had some difficulty getting the train tickets, but after asking several helpful folks, we got the tickets and were on our way. Had to change twice, but made it.

    At Morton-in-Marsh, we fumbled around trying to get a taxi. Last taxi we called told us that she was at the train station and we should walk around the station to find her. We did and she told us the sights to see and some places to eat while we traveled to Chipping Campden.

    At the B&B, we checked in early and got some good advice on where to eat. Eight Bells on Church Street gets my vote. We'll eat there tomorrow evening as we like what's on their menu. Also there is a mini "Olympics " tomorrow night, a local festival with fireworks and all of that so we plan to enjoy it. There is a candle light parade at 10 PM that goes by our B&B so we will have a ring side seat from our bedroom window!

    Saw the old market place where they auctioned sheep years ago, and Saint James Church which is the official start of The Cotswold Way. Town is geogous to view with so many yellow sandstone colored buildings. This is a jewel!

    We enjoyed dinner at Huxley's. Had an antipasti plate followed by tomato and herb soup, and topped it off with sharing a wonderful sticky toffee pudding. Better than what I remember from two years ago. It is absolutely the best dessert ever! All should try it. When we walked the Westmoreland Way two years ago, we could hardly wait for dinner to enjoy it. At one of our stops, Arlene was given two recipes that we have tried and it is yummy.

    Time to close this day and catch up on some missed sleep. Tomorrow, more of Chipping Campden and more pics.    Read more

  • TravelerThe Cotswold Way
    Day 3

    Chipping Campden, June 1

    June 1, 2018 in England ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Great to get a full night's sleep. Breakfast was a full English and very filling. Enjoyed conversation with a gentleman from the Bath area who was also walking The Cotswold Way so he shared a few tips and places to see in Bath. He was walking it in seven days which includes a couple of 20 mile days...more power to him.

    After breakfast we strolled to the tourist information center, purchasing a Campden walking tour guide, and headed out to see the sights which included the Church of Saint James, the "official " beginning of The Cotswold Way and other local sights. We initially walked to the Cotswold Olimpick Games location, on Dover's Hill. We decided to check out the sights this am and not get caught up in the crowds that are beginning to build in Campden.

    Ran into a gentleman who was finishing The Cotswold Way and he said the trail was tough from Broadway. Our task tomorrow, I guess, and we are just beginning. He walked in the reverse direction thus the trail markers point both ways so the trick is not to get confused about the direction of travel. Arlene has the guide book so if we get lost, well then...

    After walking around, we decided to relax and get ready for the first of our walks tomorrow. Arlene packed, and repacked, until she got it right while I just made sure I was not going to leave something behind. Brought back memories of the Camino days when all went into the pack, post haste.

    Dinner was at Eight Bells and they had Scrumpy Cider.

    Sure packs a wallop, it does. I recall seeing an episode of Rick Steves' travels where he met the man who made Scrumpy Cider and they had a laugh while enjoying a mug. "Came from me grandfather's recipe" he said, and not bad at all. Anyway, we had fish and chips, and finished the entree with, guess what, another sticky toffee pudding. It really is not a puddimg, but a light cake with toffee sauce and a scoop of vanilla ice cream. What a meal!

    The pictures: the altar in St. James, the arched pass-through in a coffee shop on High Street, an old car and a kids slide at the Olimpicks site, and two pics of High Street.

    Thought we could stay awake until after the fireworks and parade, but no. Still very light at 9:35, but we are going dark. Tomorrow, our first ten miler.    Read more

  • TravelerThe Cotswold Way
    Day 4

    Chipping Campden to Stanton, June 2

    June 2, 2018 in England ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Let's start with last night. Wow! After turning out the lights, the fireworks began and lasted for 15 minutes. We had a ringside seat from our room and captured a few pictures of the display. Then the bands started to play and walked, or did they march, the 3/4 mile with about two to three thousand party animals behind them. They came in two waves and marched right by our room to the town square where the stage was set, the barbecue was hot and the beer was cold. Quite a sight!

    Some time later (we were getting no, and I do mean no, sleep), the party, or celebration, was over and the happy folks started to go home with loud talk and laughter, the cars racing along the narrow street, and horns telling all that no sleep is possible until later.

    Then at four, daybreak. Quite a night and with a 10 miler today.

    Well, we finally got some rest, but I woke up at 0400 due to the morning light and the chirping birds. Had to close the windows.

    Breakfast was delicious and very filling...similar to yesterday, a full English. We left about 0900 and enjoyed the coolness of the morning, albeit a bit muggy (but no rain). Climbed a hill leaving Campden, then it leveled out with outstanding views and we motored along seeing Broadway Tower ahead, then the long downhill to the village of Broadway where we had coffee and scones. It was similar to Campden and the yellowish sandstone buildings made for a very pretty main street. After leaving Broadway, we had to enter a field through a kissing gate (yes, you read it correctly and you are supposed to kiss the person you are walking with so we have fun with that). At the gate, there was a sheep blocking the gate and I was determined not to kiss that thing, but to move him along. Stubborn sheep, would not move so I climbed the fence, then Arlene did the same, versus dealing with a smelly sheep. Anyway, we finally entered the trail and ran into a gentleman who told us the story of the Lancaster bomber crash near the Broadway Tower during WWII. He said that the last remaining bomber that was flight ready was to make a fly-by as this was a day of celebration of the valor of those killed in the crash. We were hoping to see the fly-by, but perhaps it did not take off. Anyway, we continued uphill (long uphill too) until it started down again and we found the B & B for tonight, The Shenberrow Hill. In years past, it was the site of an Iron Age hill fort. Digs uncovered relics of the past...pieces of pottery, bronze bracelets, and bone needles (bet they came from walkers picking their teeth after feasting on wooly mammoth meat at a local pub).

    We arrived around 1530, assigned to a second floor room, and I lugged 200 pounds of luggage up the turning staircase. Nice to sit for a spell (tough day), and get cleaned up before dinner at the Mount Inn Pub. They have toothpicks made of bone :).

    The meal was outstanding. We started with a salmon cake that was out of this world, then fish and chips. We both had huge pieces of fish leaving no room for sticky toffee. Oh well, we will eat less tomorrow and save room for dessert.

    Lights out now...more tomorrow from the trail.    Read more

  • TravelerThe Cotswold Way
    Day 5

    Stanton to Winchcombe, June 3

    June 3, 2018 in England ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Cloudy and foggy this morning. Once again, I awoke just about 0400 and heard the church bell chime four times so I assumed it was 0400. I recall that in Spain, the church bell sounded on the hour, but did not sound after 10 PM or so. Perhaps it did, but I was too tired and asleep to notice.

    We met a couple from San Fran and another from Philadelphia at breakfast. One was walking towards Chipping Campden and the other was walking towards Bath. Once again, breakfast lasted us all day as it was filling and delicious.

    After getting the luggage downstairs (I should be ready for some serious arm wrestling after we get home given the weight of the duffles), we left and walked through Stanton noticing the lovely stone work and the old red phone booth near the post office. We also checked out the church before walking out of town. Fields of green, trees full of leaves, and warm temperatures greeted us as we walked from field to field. We passed Stanway House, the church, and the gate house. For 1300 years, the Stanway House has changed hands but once (except through inheritance). Quite a record!

    We passed through fields of sheep and cows, noting at one gate a sign that read "bull in the field". Well now, that gave us concern, but also got us to thinking that since we saw no cows, what kind of bull could it be? Seeing parked cars resulted in the conclusion that the bull in the field was nothing more than a meeting of local politicians. And we think we have problems in the States!

    Met an English gentleman walking up a steep slope and he told us that he does a 10 miler with his wife every Sunday, but she had other things to do this week so he was by himself. We but wonder if that was true. Quite a rugged 10 miler.

    Then we ran across a herd of sheep in the road before we stopped and chatted with a small group of walkers, two from Australia and one from Sweden. They were also going to Winchcombe but in the opposite direction...go figure. We did see them again at Hailes Abbey so small world after all.

    We enjoyed coffee and scones at Hayes Fruit Farm, then continued on the trail soon arriving at Hailes Abbey.

    Hailes Abbey consists of ruins today, being built in 1251 and destroyed at a time that the guide book has decided to keep secret. Across the road was the Church of Saint Nickolas. What's really interesting about this is that it was built in the 12th century and there are original wall paintings covering a large part of the interior. Amazing that they're not protected with hard plastic, or something, as one could touch them like the walls at home.

    Pretty flowers and fields of sprouted corn marked our way and we arrived at the White Hart Inn in time for me to haul the bags up a set of stairs, through the door, up and down two sets of steps until I could get them into the room.

    Dinner was at the White Hart. Fish and chips, and sausage for Arlene. We topped it off with a peckish sized brownie with ice cream, then walked down the street to locate the church, noting the gargoyles, and to figure out how to walk to the castle which we shall do in the morning.

    All's well that ends well. Tomorrow is another day.    Read more

  • TravelerThe Cotswold Way
    Day 6

    Winchcombe, June 4

    June 4, 2018 in England ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Good morning!

    Our room is on the street side of the hotel (since 1554 per the brochure ) so there was a bit of noise, street noise, which we do not have at home. Well, I guess we have a little when the bears walk through the yard and the woodpeckers are making noise, but not too much.

    Things are slow this AM given the short, but tough hike of yesterday. Cloudy at present and I hope it stays that way as it is cool. We've been told that there is a heat wave, unusual for this time of year, and we both are looking forward to normal, late spring temperatures. Perhaps today it will start.

    Breakfast was a delight. After being shown the buffet, selecting food items and beginning to eat, the waiter came over with the menu and said we could choose from the selections...so two breakfasts! Arlene chose eggs benedict, and I had salmon with eggs and we are ready to go for a couple of days.

    We walked to the castle (Sudeley Castle), and got there just as it was opening. A large place as one would expect and the owners still live there in the winter, with the exception that one lives there year round. They maintain apartments and close the castle during the winter to tourists We toured several rooms, one being a guest room that is used when guests stay over. Guess some of those weekend parties where they dress up in knights' armor can be fatiguing. Lovely grounds, and especially the gardens.

    We are now following our daily ritual of coffee and scones so more shortly.

    Next was St. Peter's Church, then the Ace Hardware Store (go figure how a castle compares to a visit to a modern hardware store?)

    St. Peter's beginnings...798 AD. Destroyed and rebuilt several times, but survived. Lovely church.

    We checked out the hardware store as Arlene wanted to purchase a few English spoons for coffee / tea. Not sure what is so special about an English spoon, but we are now the "proud" owners of four English spoons.

    Next stop was a food store as I was shopping for dried apricots, but had to settle for dried pineapple and papaya. Good energy food for the hike.

    Decided on Thai food for this evening (prawns sounded good) so we are chilling out, packing things for tomorrow and staying off the feet.

    Dinner was excellent! Arlene enjoyed the stir fried beef and I had the stir fried prawns with cashews. No room for dessert, but we checked at the White Hart and we're told "no", so bummer to that.

    Long walk tomorrow. Night, night.    Read more

  • TravelerThe Cotswold Way
    Day 7

    Winchcombe to Dowdeswell, June 5

    June 5, 2018 in England ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    I've included two pictures from yesterday of the castle gardens. Very pretty and well maintained.

    This morning we were up early as we had an eleven mile walk, plenty of uphills, and wanted to get out quickly after breakfast.

    I went down early to check out the weather and noticed a meat delivery man taking a half hog into the sausage shop across the street. He carried it on his shoulder without any wrapping on it. Food safety? Then perhaps 30 minutes later, one of the sausage guys was carrying an arm full of packaged sausages up the street to (I presume) the co-op food store. Those sausages were good as Arlene had them for dinner and I had one for breakfast...and no one is sick yet.

    Our walk out was quite cool and the uphill began in earnest shortly after passing The Bourne Construction Company. Recall the Bourne trilogy? Must have begun here in Winchcombe.

    After passing a cricket field we entered a pasture of sheep (we see lots of sheep, and I do mean lots) and a couple of horses. A beautiful black stallion started to approach me, stuck his nose on my arm making me quite uncomfortable then proceeded to "nose" me up the hill. Arlene got a laugh, but I was worried about being bitten; or worse, losing my hat. I finally stopped to confront him and he stuck his nose where I could rub his forehead. Seemed friendly enough and he must have smelled salt on my pack as I had it in Spain and for sure I sweated while carrying it. This was quite an experience.

    We soon approached an ancient burial mound...Belas Knap from the Neolithic period. Per the signage, it dates to 5000 years ago, or 3000 BC. Excavations found several skeletons and radio carbon dated them to that time period. Makes me feel young. The site was very well preserved, perhaps because it was far out in the country and uphill for most.

    Our walk continued and we had coffee at a golf course clubhouse on Cleeve Hill...the highest point on the Cotswold Way. Guys playing there must have mountain goat DNA in their blood as it was a very long course, plenty of uphills, and most who I saw were wearing skull caps and jackets, and carrying their clubs. It was quite breezy that high, with a 360 degree view.

    Beautiful scenery surrounded us and though the day was cloudy, we could see for miles and miles given the elevation of the hills. Saw a couple of joggers on the golf course and they passed us flying, going downhill towards the butterfly sanctuary.

    We finally reached our pickup point. The B & B we are staying in was a taxi ride away from the trail so we had a short wait for the taxi. Lovely B & B and just a short walk outside town.

    Dinner was a 28 minute walk away and we enjoyed salmon that was excellent. Of course, one must remember that I am extremely hungry and will eat anything...well, just about. Should be another cool walk in the AM. Hope to be on the trail shortly after 0800 as we need a taxi to the trailhead.

    Enjoy the pictures.    Read more

  • TravelerThe Cotswold Way
    Day 8

    Dowdeswell to Birdlip, June 6

    June 6, 2018 in England ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Yep, another cool start and the food for breakfast was yummy. Out hostess told us about her son...he was in the army and stationed at the British Embassy in Washington, DC. Left his kids in England at an international school with grandma as guardian. Tough on the kids, but Europeans tend to do more of that than Americans...at least it seems so to me.

    The taxi was a few minutes late, but he whisked us away and we arrived at the trailhead in short order. The trail started heavily uphill through trees that bordered Lineover Wood (think old growth forest). A very pretty area, the climb was steep, and the field to the left of us was full of sheep. We had magnificent views of the surrounding area from the escarpment (think ridgeline of the Blue Ridge Mountains). We thoroughly enjoyed the hike, stopping three times for refreshment, the first at a converted bus. It had six tables and a full kitchen. So here's the story. We were on the trail walking along a field separated from the road by thick bushes when a break occurred and I glimpsed two men eating. Not sure where they were eating as the bus was not totally visible, but a sign soon appeared advertizing the Cotswold Diner. Well, we bounced off the trail and slid into a seat to enjoy a cup of coffee and a muffin (no scones). Nice break!

    The second break was after Leckhampton Hill where we just missed the Devil's Chimney which was at an old quarry. This was a bistro located at a school for the handicapped and Arlene had carrot and cumin soup while I thought I was ordering a parfait, but what I got were three small balls of ice cream and a cookie. Something about English that makes it a difficult language to learn...but perhaps one day.

    Our walk continued towards Crickley Hill which is the site if a Neolithic period camp. This was one of the most interesting sites along the walk. Building sites were located and I wish we had more time to explore, but Birdlip was calling us and the Royal George Hotel had all of our luggage. The day had turned out pretty warm; the end of the walk seemed inviting. So the third break occurred after Crickley Hill and at the Air Balloon. Wine and a Guinness made for an excellent break and that provided the horsepower for the rest of the walk.

    The Royal George was a pleasant sighting upon leaving the woods (and me asking for directions).

    Enjoy the pictures.

    Dinner was sole wrapped in prosciutto and veggies with sticky toffee pudding for dessert.    Read more

  • TravelerThe Cotswold Way
    Day 9

    Birdlip to Painswick, June 7

    June 7, 2018 in England ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    The Royal George just about did us in.

    Food was OK, but we both felt a bit under the weather this AM. Arlene was worse than I was, but she ate more of the hollandaise sauce than I did. At least it is not food poisoning, just an upset stomach.

    We had a so-so breakfast at 0700, out the door by 0800 and walking downhill. The way out of town was a bit pecarious as we had to walk along a narrow and curvy road until we reached the trailhead. Cars were hauling and we had a very uneven shoulder to navigate....we both made it.

    The trail immediately started downhill (oh, what a delight, but we would pay dearly later) and was a very woodsy trail. I recall what happens to the first walker in the morning that walks a woodsy trail...yep, a face full of spider webs and my hat was covered.

    After a few minutes, we stopped as Arlene wanted to check out a side trail so I sat on a rock (being the patient person that I am), and up the trail trots a red fox. We saw each other about the same time and the fox did a 360 as casually as a thief in a jewelry store. Nice surprise so early in the morning.

    We continued along the woodsy walk seeing a deer jump in front of us and I flushed a pheasant out of the bushes. Scared me out of my second skin and Arlene got to view his upward flight while I was ducking for cover.

    We passed some great views through the trees of the valley below and really enjoyed the cool morning air.

    A local running club must have had a 1/2 marathon utilizing the trail, and started such that the runners were running south to north (we are walking north to south). We noticed many, many temporary trail markers providing directions and from the looks of the muddy footprints in the trail, the runners were covered in mud from head to foot. The one part of the trail they did not run up (but we walked up) was the portion to the top of Coopers Hill. This would have been a killer as it did us in.

    Amazing what a short break and a sip of water will do for the recovery after a hard effort.

    So we continued after the brief recovery stop, walking through a golf course that had posted signs "traverse at your own risk". That gave us pause, but then we saw no golfers, so across the fairway we motored, getting to the far side, to the service road which took us away from the course and down into Painswick.

    We are at the Troy House B & B for two nights and our hosts are very nice and accommodating. Dinner reservations are made, they are doing our laundry and there is an honor system for beer and snacks in the quite large room that we have. Arlene is enjoying a well deserved nap and I am not too far from that as well. After the rest day tomorrow, we finish with six straight days of walking. I can imagine that they will be walks to remember.

    We have been very weather fortunate so far, but the forecast is not looking quite so accommodating for a dry walk into Bath next Thursday. We shall see.

    Dinner tonight.was at the Cardynham Bistro in Painswick. It came highly recommended and it deserves its appraisal. Garlic toast as an appetizer was hot, soft and delicious. The main course of beef stroganoff, the house specialty, was the best I've had in years (we both enjoyed the same thing), and to wrap up the meal, the sticky toffee pudding was truly outstanding. Now to let things settle down as tomorrow arrives too quickly with a full stomach.    Read more

  • TravelerThe Cotswold Way
    Day 10

    Painswick - June 8

    June 8, 2018 in England ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Our hostess is a "hoot". She's been to America many times with her husband and has stories to tell. Basically, she loves it and would like to move there, but then her grandchildren are here so it would be a challenge to visit with them.

    The B & B is loaded with signage she brought back from the States as the first picture indicates. John Wayne is on her wall (not in my pictures) with a typical John Wayne quote, but then it's all in fun.

    A cloudy day and ideal for walking around town.

    After breakfast, we walked down the street (Painswick is built on hills) towards Saint Mary's Church looking for the tourist info center (open Monday to Friday, but closed this Friday and no explanation) as it was located in the grave diggers cottage (perhaps closed due to grave digging). Anyway, the church was quite beautiful and its history goes back to the 1300's. During the English Civil War, cannons damaged the bell tower and one can see the damage today (just below and to the left of the clock). The cemetery also contained a war memorial, for both world wars.

    We visited the few shops that were open and ran into a gentleman in his 80's whose wife was born here and remembered when, in 1941, the Germans dropped eight bombs which destroyed most of the homes along Friday Street. Quite a memory as she was about six when the bombing occurred.

    We had coffee and scones at a cafe, checked out the menus of several restaurants, but decided to again make reservations at the bistro as the food was so good and our hostess recommended also. We did not care for the other menus that we saw.

    Walked by the Painswick Hotel (told that it is a five star hotel) and enjoyed the view before we walked to the Painswick Rococo Gardens (the only rococo gardens in England). If you do not know what a rococo garden is, we challenge you to Google it. We enjoyed the walk, the flowers and the structures. It dates to the 1740's.

    Once again, dinner was a delight. Chicken stuffed with brie and ham for Arlene while I enjoyed pork tenderloin and potatoes. We can get used to this!    Read more

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