• Florian Malidin

Japan 2019

A 23-day adventure by Florian Read more
  • Trip start
    March 4, 2019

    Arrival and first day in Nikko

    March 5, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    First day in Japan after a long journey from Paris starting the previous day. Going straight to Nikko with a (super fast) train from Tokyo.
    First encounter with amazing Japanese food for lunch at Milky House (yuba tofu)! Afternoon spent walking around the Tosho-gu complex, Shin-Kyo bridge and Ganman-ga-fuchi abyss. Municipal onsen (yashio) in the evening to wind down after this long stretch of travelling and day of walking.
    Miso ramen for dinner at Bonten Ramen.
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  • Nikko Day 2

    March 6, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Run in the morning close to Tosho-gu and then proper visit of the temple complex and long walk in the beautiful park.
    Soba lunch at a random place on the main street as Gyoshintei was closed.
    Early dinner and evening back at the guesthouse as everything closes by 6pm and I'm leaving early the day after to go to Nagano.

    Also, after multiple attempts, we eventually managed to register for the DDF with Guilhem on that day! Reunion here we go!
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  • Nagano Day 1

    March 7, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ❄️ 0 °C

    Very early train from Nikko to Nagano and then bus directly to Togakushi, a beautiful ski resort and supposed to have a few nice temples. Unfortunately with the snow, I couldn't reach the main temple and ninja museum but still had a good walk around the white forest.
    Excellent traditional soba for lunch at Uruzaya.
    I then met another French guy (also from Villefranche!!) touring Japan. We walked for a bit together and tried going back to Nagano but it was an adventure with a bus every 1h and a driver pretending not to see us near by a stop! It all ended up well with hitch hiking right away with a crazy lady who couldn't speak a word of English!
    Back in Nagano to visit the Zenko-ji and then hotpot dinner at Yamajaya.
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  • Day in Obuse

    March 8, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 4 °C

    Short run in a Nagano covered by 10cm of snow over night, and train the morning to spend the day in Obuse. It is a charming small city known for its chestnut products, Hokusay museum and some sake brewers.
    Amazing weather making it a great day to walk around. Hokusay museum was a bit disappointing: love this artist but the collection they have is really tiny.
    Delicious lunch at Sensikitei with chestnut rice and then went on to try out some local chestnut products and sake! Walked to Ganshoin after that, which was also a bit disappointing.
    Back in Nagano in the evening and early dinner at a soba place within the station.
    Second night at the lovely Matsuya Ryokan.
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  • Matsumoto

    March 9, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Early morning train from Nagano to have time to spend in Matsumoto.
    Visit of the magnificent castle in the morning. Really impressive building especially given that it is about 500 y/o! And wonderful views of the surrounding mountains.
    Delicious unagi (eel on rice) lunch at Sakuraya.
    Walked around the very pleasant Nakamachi area and then train for Hakone to join Benedict.
    Good to see him and first of a long series of good meals at Yakudo for charcoal BBQ.
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  • Fuji Day 1

    March 10, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Pick up my bike in the morning and then first cycling loop with a tour of the 5 Fuji lakes (we actually only saw 4...). Weather was not the best but the route was scenic and the ride good with about 100k!
    Recovering first with great hoto noodles at Hoto Fudo, and later with matsu-nobe (hotpot) at a random place found in emergency given the heavy rain.
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  • Fuji Day 2

    March 11, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    Waking up to see lots of unexpected fresh snow on the roads! We wait a bit later to leave for our second cycling day. We tried to climb the beast under a beautiful blue sky but the road is in fact closed quite early on due to the snow so we made a new itinerary on the spot and ended up climbing a pass in the area that gave us a fantastic view on Fuji.
    Super good yakitori spot for dinner where we had all the weird chicken parts that there is: liver, cartilage, gizzard, skin, neck etc.
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  • Fuji Day 3

    March 12, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Rather early start compared to the previous day for our most ambitious ride. Went all the way South to a pass with views on the Hakone lake and ocean coast after a very decent climb. On the way back, had to climb a real beast: about 10k all the way up with turns @ 16-18% gradient!!
    Well deserved delicious umagi for dinner, followed by a less memorable but necessary soba/udon spot.
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  • Fuji Day 4 - Ride for ramen!

    March 13, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    Early start again to go to Kofu (about 50k away) to have lunch at Chuukasobauezu, a tsukemen ramen with pork slices and fish broth. Incredibly good! Even worth the 1h30 wait in line (starting to realize how crazy about food Japanese are...).
    Nice ride back to Fuji and good BBQ in the evening.
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  • Overnight stay in Hakone

    March 14, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Left Fuji in the morning and took the bus to Hakone for an overnight stay.
    Great tofu-based lunch at Naokichi and then went for a walk around in Hakone's main town (place is actually quite spread out in a sort of valley).
    In the afternoon, we visited the Hakone Open Air museum which was a bit disappointing (becoming a habit with Japanese museums!) but failed to get into a good onsen. We compensated with an amazing tonkatsu dinner at Tamura Ginkatsutei.
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  • Arriving in Tokyo

    March 15, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Super fast morning train from Hakone to Tokyo where we meet with the rest of the gang: Steffi, Han Wei and his fiancée Soon-jin.
    We are staying in Ginza, near Tokyo station: it is surprisingly peaceful and quiet for such a busy area! Nice to walk around.
    We went in the suburbs for a very good umagi lunch, then just walked around Ginza in the afternoon before stopping at a traditional tea place where we had delicious sweet and savoury treats along with tea and sake. Then cocktail bar and Japanese curry at Sisheido. Already so much good food for the first day!
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  • Tokyo Day 1

    March 16, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    CF session with Ben in the morning to make sure we would be hungry later (!).
    We all (+ Ed who arrived only that day) meet for traditional soba in the Harajuku / Omotesando area.
    Afternoon walk in Omotesando, Cat St etc. up to close to Shibuya, and coffee break at traditional Hato house.
    Memorable dinner (at least for me!) at sushi master Tanaka. Always a unique experience.
    Later evening was gyoza supper, then Golden Gai drinks, and unbelievable Nangi ramen to finish the night... We pushed it!
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  • Tokyo Day 2

    March 17, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Started the day with a super nice run around the Imperial Palace to try sweat out the previous night.. unfortunately that wouldn't be enough.
    Unexpected lunch for Japan but very good pizza at Pizza Studio PST.
    Walk around the Toranomon area in the afternoon to check out the pot gallery. Then very good snack at Bricolage but really not feeling great, not hungry at all.
    Pre-dinner cocktails at a great bar but I am feeling really unwell from everything from the day before... so sparkling water for me!
    Dinner was exceptional at Tatsuaki Kasamoto, a traditional tempura place.
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  • Tokyo Day 3

    March 18, 2019 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    Morning gym session to still try to recover from the previous days. Feeling much better after it!
    Luckily light fish and rice lunch in the Marunouchi area. Then walk around Gynza again.
    Dinner was the highly expected and anticipated Satoshi at Chiune! Delicious, creative, unique and unforgettable. All well accompanied with 30 y/o moutai (surprisingly good!) and great wine.
    We then had to go for super as dinner was light and early and finally made it to the mapo tofu place - amazingly good and very fun time!
    Great way to finish this crazy food tour of Tokyo with everyone and to say goodbye before next time!
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  • Kyoto Day 1

    March 19, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Another super fast train from Tokyo to Kyoto in the morning.
    Spent the all day walking around the Eastern side of Kyoto until dusk - it felt so good and I am really found of the city! So quiet, peaceful, with a great sense of history and majesty.
    First visit was the Sanjusangen-do: impressive with its 1000 Buddha statues, even I struggle a bit to relate. Then, Kiyomizu-dera: beautiful views on the city and nice garden but so crowded with hords of tourists! Nice walk in the Sannen and Ninen-zaka streets and around. Lots of little stalls and shop give it a traditional touch. Then, Heian-jingu with a walk through the other temples area on the way. Finally, took the philosopher's path up to Ginkaku-ji which was closed by the time I got there.
    Walked all the way back to the hotel by passing through Shinbashi and Gion: so cool at night with all the lights on!
    Dinner at food court of the Takoyamashi store: so many good little things!
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  • Kyoto Day 2

    March 20, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Early morning walk first around the Imperial Palace, with a stop for an absolutely delicious matcha at the Ippodo shop. Then visit of the shogun residence Nijo-jo which has beautiful rooms and gilded screen paintings inside and a gorgeous garden. Finally, walk around Nishiki market and then back to the museum area on the East side for a great bento lunch at Rokusei.
    After that, went back to visit the Ginkaku-ji temple and its quiet and so well arranged Japanese garden. Peaceful sanctuary on the way there.
    I walked all the way back to the hotel to then run to CrossFit Kyoto: great session and super nice owner Russel who was very welcoming!
    Dinner at Mame-Cha was really really good and authentic. Super of curry udon at Okura was less exciting.
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  • Day in Nara

    March 21, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Morning train to Nara to visit the different temples in the Nara-koen on the East side of the city. This is overall a beautiful and enchanting area, with the deers wandering around and the forest. The Kofuku-fi was definitely missable (no need to get in really), but then really cool to walk up to Todai-ji (one worth visiting), and then to Nigatsu-do, a really enchanting sanctuary in the middle of the forest.
    Lunch at Hiyory for good local vegetables and beef.
    Train back to Kyoto and good gym session before dinner. Tried hisago which was unfortunately already closed so ended up at the food court again!
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  • Osaka

    March 22, 2019 in Japan ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

    Morning: early train from Kyoto and go to the hotel to leave my luggage. Visit of the area around the station with the impressive Sky Garden building and its stunning views at the top. Train to the castle area where I give up on the visit given the amount of tourists
    Lunch: walk around Kuromon market for some Takoyaki and delicious fatty tuna and sea orchin sushi at Kuromon Sanpei
    Afternoon: the TV tower and Tsurakunen tower and walk around the neighborhood around the zoo. Long coffee break at Brooklyn Roasting. Session at CrossFit Osaka
    Dinner: udon at Imai Honten (rec by Ed) and Okonomiyaki at Hozenji Sanpei.
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  • Hiroshima

    March 23, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    Morning: train from Osaka early to be in Hiroshima before 9am. Visit of the Prefectural museum of art and municipal museum of contemporary art which were both disappointing...
    Lunch: delicious okonomiyaki at Hassei, authentic and away from tourists
    Afternoon: memorial museum of the A-bomb and area around. Run around the castle
    Dinner: tsukemen at Bakudan and seafood at Suishin
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  • Nagoya

    March 24, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Morning: early train from Hiroshima to arrive before noon. The station is crazy busy and hard to walk around! Visit of the area around the station with stunning buildings, the science museum and TV tower. A really beautiful, modern and busy city.
    Lunch: ended up at Ippudo, a ramen spot that has become a chain. Not bad
    Afternoon: went to the castle and walked around. Coffee break at a nice traditional house
    Dinner: chicken sashimi at Kururu. Okaydon at Torishimuzu (Ben recommended). Nishimen noodles at the small station shop, absolutely delicious.
    Late train back to Tokyo, in my beloved Ginza!
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  • Last day in Tokyo

    March 25, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    Morning: early start to go to the former fish market that now only has a few stalls selling fish around. Very touristy and disappointing place, nothing much to see compared to Kyoto or Osaka markets. Tube to Hasakabusa to visit the temple area, walk around the neighborhood still waking up, then see Asahi hall and Tokyo Skytree tower. Tube to Omotesando to walk around Omaya (only luxury fashion boutiques), and Arakusa. Also lots of boutiques but in a more geeky/crazy style! Very typical. Without transition you can visit the traditional XX temple before diving into Shitakaya street where all the Anime kids go for colourful sweets and clothes.
    Lunch: gyoza spot in Arakusa. Quite underwhelming but a least cheap
    Afternoon: walk to and around Shibuya. The famous crossing is not that impressive and the rest is just malls and stores that I am getting tired of! Tube back to Ginza to buy a teapot and go to a great tea house called XX where I got an excellent tea set and bought some bags to bring back. Last turret latte before running to a CrossFit session at Shinkara.
    Evening: literally starving, I went on my ramen tour. First at Tori Paintan for delicious chicken based soup. Then to Menya Kajin for seafood based soup. Was hard to find but also delicious. The other two were unfortunately closed. So instead I tried yakitori in Omeido alley: probably the worst meal I have had of the whole trip! Too bad to finish on that note... So to recover I went back to ramen Nagi: so rich but so good!
    I struggled to go back with the closing tube so after going in circles I had to take a cab back.
    What a last day! 4h sleep now before catching my plane
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    Trip end
    March 26, 2019