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Around the World with Jan
Around the World with Jan

Around the World with Jan

I've spent a lifetime travelling the world and I have no intention of ever stopping. There are so many amazing places to see. Read more🇦🇺Sydney
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  • Around the World with JanThe Land of the VikingsAround the World with Jan

    Heading back

    August 2 in Norway ⛅ 21 °C

    Did you know that a group of walrus is called an ‘ugly’? I certainly didn’t. Even though they are very big and clumsy and just a bit smelly, they are majestic creatures especially in the water where they no longer look clumsy or awkward.

    We were able to go on land to view a big colony of walrus and we were allowed to get within 150 metres so quite close. They kept us amused – it’s like watching big dogs playing as they rolled, scratched and pushed each other around. They pretty much ignored us.

    It’s hard to cover all the things we saw on the Greg Mortimer. The time didn’t pass too quickly and still we were doing quite a lot each day from lectures to landings, watching wildlife or doing after dinner trips on the zodiacs. We were informed about the history of the arctic and the amazing plant and animal life there and how important it is to protect it.

    The landscape never disappointed – with stunning glaciers and multi-coloured rock formations, every morning gave us a different vista.

    When we eventually got to Longyearbyen to leave the crew behind we were all a little sad that it was over. And, grateful we weren’t on one of the massive big ships like the one in port when we landed.

    A few days with a good friend from England in Oslo and it was all over and I was on my way home ready to plan the next adventure.    Read more

  • Around the World with JanThe Land of the VikingsAround the World with Jan

    Spitsbergen

    July 24 in Svalbard and Jan Mayen ☁️ 7 °C

    Luckily for us, as we did head north we had great weather for the first two days. Even on a foggy day we saw a mother polar bear and her cub (from a distance) as they devoured a beluga whale carcass. We couldn’t go too close 300 metres is the limit to try to protect these beautiful animals.

    To our surprise, the polar bear isn’t white, not at this time of year – they are a yellow colour so that they blend in the with rocks, visible during the summer months. In winter of course their fur is white to match their snowy environment.

    There are very strict limits here to try to protect the bears. We had several lands and zodiac trips cancelled because there was bear in there. They can smell up to 30km away so if a bear is on beach where we want to land or we can see him jump in the water, that’s in, it’s no-go zone.

    There are fewer places where you can land in this part of the Arctic. Sometimes it’s because of the pack ice or the glaciers and access, others it’s because the Norwegian are trying to protect a place where warming is making a bigger impact than anywhere else in the world. It’s a sobering fact.    Read more

  • Around the World with JanThe Land of the VikingsAround the World with Jan

    Longyearbyen

    July 24 in Svalbard and Jan Mayen ☁️ 7 °C

    A few more days in Oslo to enjoy the warm weather and a bit of sightseeing before I headed into the unknown and was once again at the mercy of the weather.

    Flying in from Oslo, landing at the northern most airport in the world, 118 intrepid travellers alighted at the town of Longyearbyen on the island of Spitsbergen – the staging point for our adventure.

    Named after John Munro Longyear, who co-founded the Arctic Coal Company, this is the settlement where you can’t walk past the town limits without someone with a flare gun and rifle to protect you. No polar bear sightings - all we encountered were beautiful migratory barnacle geese and their chicks.

    It was once a bustling mining town as well as a staging point for expeditions by people such as Willem Barentsz trying to find the North West Passage. Apparently it has some of the best coal in the world so mining here was very successful.

    Of course there is also the seed vault – the protector of all the seeds for food crops from around the world in case any country needs to restock supplies. The only withdrawal in recent times has been from Syria after the war to replace their crops. The seed bank still gets deposits – sadly entry is restricted – no tourists allowed just pictures outside.

    In the early evening we boarded our ship under sunny skies and sailed into the sunset - well, there is no real sunset at this time of year but we headed north eager for adventure.    Read more

  • Around the World with JanThe Land of the VikingsAround the World with Jan

    On edge of a fjord

    July 22 in Norway ⛅ 21 °C

    Oslo - from Viking settlement to elegant city - a very walkable city with minimal high rise. It's easy to get around - there are trams or buses but I prefer on foot, you see much more.

    The Vikings built with wood and after one too many fires, the whole city burnt to the ground and was rebuilt in the 17th century.

    With it's elegant buildings and stunning modern edifices like the Opera House, there is so much to see an do. And of course, there are some amazing museums with everything from a Viking hoard to the Art of Edvard Munch and the history of the Nobel Peace Prize.

    You can't possible see it in a few days or even a week.

    It is expensive - I will never complain about how expensive Sydney is again. Norwegians are well paid and the living standard is high.

    The weather here has been warm and the tourists plentiful but all you have to do is walk a block from the centre and it's quiet and peaceful.

    The light is amazing almost any time of day to take pictures and I have, lots of them. Oslo is very photogenic and a great place to wander and just watch.    Read more

  • Around the World with JanThe Land of the VikingsAround the World with Jan

    An Island Paradise

    July 14 in Norway 🌧 12 °C

    The Lofotens - a place of jagged peaks, sandy white beaches, turquoise blue sea and 'weather'

    We get to understand very quickly what Jakob, our lovely guide means by 'weather'. We also learn about the term two gortex hike.

    It's much cooler this far north ad one side of the islands can be sunny while the other is wet.

    This place doesn't disappoint - the views from the trails are stunning. Suddenly you go from sunny weather to be engulfed by clouds with the wind trying to blow you off the mountain.

    The small towns here are so picturesque. Some of them are no longer working fishing villages but the enterprising locals have helped preserve many of them as great places for visitors such as Nyksund and Nusfjord.

    There are lovely cafes and restaurants and the rorbuer (fisherman's huts) that you see on all the tourist brochures. They hug the coastline and accentuate the craggy mountains that form a backdrop. Inside, they are warm and comfortable with all the modern conveniences.

    Now I'm back in Oslo about to set off on the next leg of my journey. And, the sun is shining!    Read more

  • Around the World with JanThe island of sea womenAround the World with Jan

    A city of contrasts

    November 28, 2025 in South Korea ☀️ 6 °C

    Seoul has been a shock to the system. Not because of its size or population but it’s very cold, being a few days from winter. This morning - -3, yep, that’s right, -3. Thank goodness I brought the beanie and gloves. I’ve needed them.

    The metro is frequent and fast and very inexpensive to use. Though I’ve walked as much as I can, there’s so much more to explore on foot.

    People are very helpful, if you look lost they’ll ask if they can help, even if they don’t speak very much English. Most of the guides I’ve had on palace tours here have great English – most of them have lived or studied overseas.

    The contrast between the ancient and the modern in Seoul is striking but add to that the brilliant colours of autumn, even on a cloudy day, it is stunningly beautiful.

    Insadong, the area where I’m staying, is very central, not only to art galleries, ancient palaces and more shops than you can poke a stick at, it also has the oldest hanok village in Seoul, I discovered completely by accident.

    Vising the DMZ was an experience. Sadly, we couldn’t see much of North Korea, it was too foggy and pictures are strictly forbidden once you cross into the DMZ zone. I was surprised to find that most of the dos and don’ts for this area are not dictated by either North or South Korea, the UN holds sway and if they say you can’t, you can’t.

    As I head for home (and warm weather) I realise how much more there is to see here even in Seoul itself. But next time, I’ll be coming in spring.    Read more

  • Around the World with JanThe island of sea womenAround the World with Jan
    1
    1

    One more mountain to climb

    November 23, 2025 in South Korea ⛅ 15 °C

    Trip number two is now finished and I’ve climbed Hallasan. I’m pretty tired right now.

    It’s not that the walking along the Jeju Olle was particularly hard – climbing the mountain was. Ice and snow made the trail quite a challenge as if a 1900+ peak and 9.6km trail weren’t hard enough. Marcus swears that it’s 11km each way – it certainly felt like it.

    The terrain on my second trip was very varied as you’ll see from the photos. We had oreum (volcanic cones) to climb, quite a lot of urban walking then these beautiful wetlands and stunning black sand beaches. We walked through more farmland and lots of mandarin trees.

    The hikes were split over two places – Seongsan and Seogwipo. Again, getting around has been so easy with buses running to all the starting or end points of the trails. I walked over 100km combined so I got my 100km certificate and a joint certificate because I’ve done the Portuguese coastal camino.

    I’m off to Seoul tomorrow, not sure how much energy I’ve got left but I’ll probably take it easy before I have to head home. There’s a lot to see and do in Seoul, it's a very big city. And, I believe the autumn leaves are out – there’s only a hint of that up on Hallasan because it’s milder here. I’m looking forward to the colour.

    The weather has been spectacular as you can see from the photos.    Read more

  • Around the World with JanThe island of sea womenAround the World with Jan
    1

    Walking the Jeju Olle Trail

    November 9, 2025 in South Korea ☁️ 17 °C

    This is the island of sea women – the haeyneo - who free dive to great depths without tanks to collect their bounty from the ocean. We’ve watched them at work and hopefully we’ll get to meet some of them on the second half of my journey.

    I’ve been on Jeju Island for just over a week and we’ve covered quite a lot of ground on the north coast - there’s quite a bit more to go. I wouldn’t say the hiking is hard - the scenery goes from urban to forest with the ocean as a constant backdrop.

    The terrain varies from coastal to farmland, forest and small peaks offering great views up and down the coast. Hallasan dominates the landscape wherever you go and when the weather is as good as we’ve had it, you can always see it as a centrepiece to the island.

    The coastline is sprinkled with signal towers and the remains of fortresses built to keep out pirates and other invaders, all built from pieces of lava.

    Jeju has had it's share of grief during the Japanese invasion, the coastline dotted with memorials to those who died trying to resist. It's also been an island where prisoners were once sent and islanders weren't allowed onto the mainland, all of which has helped make this place unique.

    The black of the lava rock dominates – what surprised me was how beautiful the ocean has been – the most stunning shade of aquamarine in the shallows near the shore which makes the black rocks stand out even more.

    There are hundreds of mandarin trees and vegetables growing everywhere taking advantage of the volcanic soil.

    Because of its historical isolation, Jeju has developed a character all its own. People are friendly and the food is fabulous. The public transport is extensive and inexpensive, so is the food.

    This is hiking in style – after a day of walking, you can have a hot shower, relax and wander down the street for dinner.

    I’m looking forward to the next section of the Jeju Olle Trail – we’ve only just touched the surface - there are 27 trails covering over 400km in total and we're only doing a small number of them.    Read more

  • Around the World with JanMexico and CubaAround the World with Jan
    1

    Viñales

    March 12, 2025 in Cuba ☀️ 28 °C

    The West of Cuba is quite different to the East. This area is more lush and fertile with the rich red soil, fields of tobacco and coffee and beautiful birdlife against a background of limestone mogotes.

    The pace of life is slower here by necessity rather than design. The roads are in the poorest condition, making a trip to the sea a two hour marathon one way.

    So far we've spotted over 50 species of birds which is pretty amazing.

    What makes me sad as our trip comes to an end is that the situation here isn't because of external forces but from within. People have to operate within a system that is broken and they have found ways to do that.

    It isn't fair or easy to know that as we go back to our comfortable lives, people here will continue to struggle. Some people hope for change while others doubt that it ever will. I hope they are wrong. Given a chance Cuba could be so much more than it's allowed to be.    Read more

  • Around the World with JanMexico and CubaAround the World with Jan

    Santiago de Cuba

    March 1, 2025 in Cuba ☀️ 29 °C

    As we head East deeper into the countryside we experience first hand power cuts that can last all day and roads that haven't been repaired for years.

    Despite that, each place we visit has a special magic. And, music, always, and often loud enough to rattle the windows. Cubans like their music and they prefer it loud. Everywhere we eat in the evenings we are serenaded by fabulous musicians and of course we dance.

    Cuba doesn't have the archaelogical sites but the Spanish and French settled here building stunning homes full of treasures from their home countries - furniture, glassware and porcelain, much of it still there.

    Of course, Fidel and Che are everwhere. This is a country of revolutions and invasions, fighting and patriotism. There are monuments everywhere to those who have shaped this country.    Read more

  • Around the World with JanMexico and CubaAround the World with Jan
    11

    Adios Mexico, hola Cuba

    February 22, 2025 in Mexico ☁️ 23 °C

    I can't leave Mexico without summing up just how amazing it is.

    We saw so much and yet I feel that we only scratched the surface. UNESCO world heritage sites and one of the 7 wonders of the world at Chichen Itza.

    Our guide, Lucila, was amazing, her love of this country was obvious in the way she talked about it. The trip wasn't nearly long enough.

    Now it's on to Cuba and another adventure.    Read more

  • Around the World with JanMexico and CubaAround the World with Jan
    11

    Into the jungle

    February 18, 2025 in Mexico ☀️ 32 °C

    We are literally in the jungle now. Hot and humid, parrots and monkeys and that's just around the hotel.

    We've seen and done lots and yet the time hasn't gone too quickly even though I'll be in Cuba on the weekend. Who knows what connectivity I will have there.

    It's been an amazing trip. The UNESCO archaeology sites are incredible. The history and architecture as well as the food and the people. 15 days just isn't long enough.

    I've had frozen margaritas and mescal and posh, the local moonshine. We had to travel through Zapatista territory, and we did it without any issues. I've felt completely safe here, even walking on my own.

    I can't speak highly enough of our driver Evan and our guide, Lucila. The pride they have in their country is obvious. And, a nice bunch of people on the trip.

    An amazing place, definitely worth a visit.    Read more

  • Around the World with JanMexico and CubaAround the World with Jan
    Belle Artes Mexico City
    Belle Artes Mexico City1A colourful neighbourhoodHe looks scary to meThe tree of life Anthropology MuseumTemple of the moon TeotihuacanSprouting wings, Puebla1

    Hola, habla Inglis?

    February 5, 2025 in Mexico ☀️ 23 °C

    Mexico city, 25 million people, an amazing history and friendly locals but not much English spoken here so my rudimentary Spanish has been put to the test on a daily basis.

    The weather has been perfect, cool at night and warm during the day. It's easy to forget that we are sitting at 2000 metres above sea level.

    There is so much to see. The highlights for me have been the home of Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera, Casa Azul and the Anthropolgy Museum, built in the 60's and on of the best I've yet to see.

    Over the next few days we will visit some of the ancient cities that these treasures came from.    Read more

  • Around the World with JanJan in JapanAround the World with Jan

    City of towers

    November 4, 2024 in Hong Kong ☁️ 27 °C

    Well, I’m now on the final leg of my journey. Arriving in Hong Kong at night was quite an experience. I’ve never seen such tall towers of light. As we sped to Hong Kong Island on the MTR Airport Express I felt like I was travelling through a futuristic movie set. It was something else. Now it’s morning and it looks much more like a normal city.

    I was happy to leave Osaka and it’s teeming crowds of people. From mid-morning to late into the evening a massive tide of humanity streamed along the footpaths – it makes Sydney look like a quiet place.

    Having said that, the back streets away from the shops sometimes produced hidden gems – two beautiful little temples around the corner and across the road from my hotel, tucked away in a quiet corner.

    Namba, the area I was staying in while I was in Osaka, was a mecca of luxury shops from Dunhill to Burberry, Prada and Fendi. The Diamaru store looked like something out of the 1940’s – David Jones only more posh.

    Where I am in Honkers seems to be the home of luxury cars – McLaren, BMW, Porche on the Queens Road. I look forward to exploring this city a little bit in the next couple of days – love the transport system.

    I am going to be glad to get home. I miss salads and sandwiches and being able to have fruit for breakfast and make it myself. It has been an amazing trip and definitely worth doing the walk. Rural Japan is beautiful.

    Now it’s time to finalise organising the next trip (I’m sure that doesn’t surprise anyone).    Read more

  • Around the World with JanJan in JapanAround the World with Jan

    Japanese Pilgrim

    October 30, 2024 in Japan ☁️ 18 °C

    I’m now half way through the hiking part of this trip and it’s been fun. Lots of laughter and silliness with a nice bunch of people. Marcus our guide has done his best to make this as enjoyable as possible. We’ve made paper when the rain just got too heavy to walk, sat in an outdoor onsen at the edge of a crystal clear river first thing in the morning and walked and walked and walked, and eaten amazing food.

    Day 1 was a steep climb which challenged all of us. The trails have varied from stones to dirt and mud walking through some of the tallest cedar and cypress trees I’ve ever seen, it’s rarely flat. On Day 2 we were rained on a lot and in that weather we watched while high school students carried bags of dirt to rebuild sections of the Kumano Kodo as part of a school excursion, not something you’d see in Australia.

    Unfortunately there are very few autumn leaves just yet. The season has been getting later and now the leaves don’t change until the end of the November. That hasn’t taken away from the sheer beauty of the forests we’ve walked through, especially today.

    Every night we’ve dined liked emperors – the food has been sensational and I’ve developed a fondness for plum wine! Each time the table has been set with beautiful dishes of tasty morsels to tempt us to keep eating.

    The local people are friendly and helpful even if they don’t always understand what we’re on about. What we haven’t been able to communicate in words, we’ve managed with smiles and hand gestures.

    A truly amazing trip - tiring, lots to see and more to come.    Read more

  • Around the World with JanJan in JapanAround the World with Jan
    First impressions
    First impressionsLife's a BeachLost for wordsCalm and beautifulAnd so it begins - the start of the trail

    And so it begins

    October 26, 2024 in Japan ☁️ 21 °C

    After thinking that this year I’d done my dash on an overseas trip, I was lucky enough to get a cancellation to hike the Nakahechi Route of the Kumano Kodo. The question was did I want to take the slot? Of course I did, would anyone have any doubt about it?

    It was a long journey to get here – 2 flights, two trains with a 4 hour layover in Hong Kong which turned into 5 as we arrived an hour early. Normally that would be good, but not when you have to hang around the transit lounge of a busy airport really late and everything is starting to close.

    Well, I made it to Kii Tanabe and, after a good night’s sleep, today has been the day of the temples. I’ve been amazed so far and I’ve only visited two. The elegance and simplicity of design coupled with stunning gardens took my breath away even on a grey overcast day. I’m sure there’s many more to come in the walk.

    Some of the group are arriving today so we’re meeting for dinner tonight. I look forward to meeting them all tomorrow at our briefing and then on Monday off we go. More on that later….    Read more

  • Around the World with JanOn the road againAround the World with Jan
    Where am I again?
    Where am I again?Italian Garden Hyde ParkSo many lovely old pubsSome things never change - St Paul'sShakespeare's Globe TheatreGrand architecture everywhereWho wouldn't recognise this? Big Ben.A quiet corner - Little Venice

    My home away from home

    August 15, 2023 in England ☁️ 24 °C

    London didn’t disappoint – despite lots of construction work, it hasn’t really changed. It was busier than I’ve ever seen it as if everyone decided that 2023 is the year to go to Europe and the UK and many of them were in London.

    At one point I thought I’d been transported to Bangkok, trishaws lined up outside Selfridges with loud music and flashing lights – who would have thought?

    Despite the crowds, there were quiet pockets of the city with fewer people. My little hotel was in Paddington just off the main road so quiet and peaceful but close enough to walk to Hyde Park or Oxford Street, it was a great find.

    London is still London – there’s a buzz that I haven’t felt in any other city. It’s history and art still manage to charm even after all these years. I was lucky to have warm weather which made walking a pleasure.

    Now I’m back in Sydney it’s time to start thinking about what comes next…..    Read more

  • Around the World with JanOn the road againAround the World with Jan
    1The Magnificant ceiling in Carlisle Cathedral
    1The Magnificant ceiling in Carlisle CathedralYork Minster in the evening sunThe pretty town of KnaresboroughThe Shambles in YorkAnother Tudor survivorDerby countrysideThe Dark PeaksAnother beautiful forest pathThe White Peaks District1Bletchley Park

    Heading Home

    August 7, 2023 in England ☁️ 19 °C

    Well, I’ve had a couple of weeks of being a tourist but I didn’t quite hang up my boots. Two beautiful walks in the Peak district meant that I wasn’t finished with them, or them with me.

    The weather has been cold even for an English summer and on some days very wet but I’ve still been able to see lots and enjoy what England has to offer.

    I’ve visited Norman churches with a history dating back to the Battle of Hastings, walked in the footsteps of the code-breakers at Bletchley Park and walked streets lined with Tudor buildings leaning at impossible angles in the Shambles in York and the back streets of Stratford-on-Avon.

    I’ve seen Shakespeare’s 'As You Like It' in Stratford and eaten in atmospheric pubs that have never heard of gentrification. Lots of the famous department stores I remember when I lived here have now gone from the high streets which is very sad – Debenhams, C&A and British Home Stores have all disappeared. Marks & Spencer is one of the few to survive.

    London is my final stop in a couple of days, to see what’s new and what has stayed the same. It’s been a fabulous trip. By next weekend, I know I’ll be ready to come home.    Read more

  • Around the World with JanOn the road againAround the World with Jan
    Need I say more?
    Need I say more?The wall and meLanercoster Priory - lots of Wall stones in hereThere's a lot more history than just the Romans on Hadrians Wall PathOh for a sunny day!The River Eden near CarlisleThe final leg - yipee!2That's it, done - a modest end to a long walk

    I did it (my way)

    July 24, 2023 in England ☁️ 17 °C

    Well, I’ve finished the walk. My favourite part, the middle bit across the crags where you can actually see what a feat of engineering the wall was. I could easily image Roman legions marching along the military road. To me it felt like I was walking in the footsteps of history. Buried for 2000 years the landscape is still offering up evidence of what life was like for these men. Beautiful pieces of jewellery, glass, pottery, coins and much more.

    My least favourite part – the rain. After great weather for the first six days, it rained steadily for most of the next day. Damp drizzle making the fields a muddy quagmire (and there are a lot of fields to cross). At least it wasn’t cold. The second day of rain was something else again – a steady stream of water that didn’t let up. Thank goodness for wet weather gear.

    The final leg provided challenges of its own – tree felling just outside of Carlisle meant a 30 minute diversion to cover what should have taken 10 and then having to cross a busy motorway because the underpass was under water and I didn’t plan on swimming.

    Sadly there are no pieces of the wall on the last section of the walk except in the walls of houses and churches in the villages on the route. It didn’t matter, I had a sunny day and I walked into Bowness with a smile on my face because I had made it.

    Now it’s time to hang up the muddy and smelly boots and be a tourist for a while.    Read more

  • Around the World with JanOn the road againAround the World with Jan
    It would be hard to get lost with all the signs
    It would be hard to get lost with all the signsJust one of the gorgeous B&B'sTypical countrysideBeautiful flowers everywhere - achoo!A far as the eye can see....Yep, that's a mighty wallWhat's left of a milecastleOne of the most important Roman sites - Vindolanda

    Definitely walking the Wall

    July 19, 2023 in England ⛅ 19 °C

    Today I’m half way through the walk and it was the toughest of the days so far – not because of the distance but because it suddenly wasn’t flat any more, it was a constant up and down. As well as that you there was the weather to contend with. The day started with fog and ended with sunshine with a pelting rainstorm or three in between. The crags were steep and particularly treacherous when raining with slippery stones and mud.

    This is where you see the real wall – long stretches behind and in front of you giving you a very good indication of just what an amazing feat of engineering Hadrians Wall was. Sadly great chunks are now part of local farms, houses and churches as generations pilfered the easiest material they could find, the stones from the wall.

    The views from the top of those crags were stunning, it’s obvious why the Romans built their wall here – you can see for miles and the steep crags meant that they could easily defend their territory from the wall and the forts along it. No-one could approach undetected.

    This part of the wall lies in the Northumberland national park with stunning oak and sycamore trees, amazing wildflowers and bodies of water called loughs. Lots of birdlife too. This is where I’ve seen the most walkers – many of them only tackle a couple of sections and this is one of them.

    The Roman forts were a whole other story. There were several of them visible today, the most amazing being Vindolanda. That site has been built on since before Hadrian so there is 2000 years of history there, and it's still being excavated and slowly revealing its secrets.

    The artefacts found there and still being found were stunning – from painted glass fragments to items of clothing and jewellery to pottery much of it in amazing condition. It’s a fantastic place to see just how the Romans lived and played. Extraordinary.

    Well, 5 more days to go. Weather forecast isn’t great but that isn’t going to deter me. I’m about to go into Cumbria where the landscape will change again. A bit less of the wall but more Roman ruins to explore.    Read more

  • Around the World with JanOn the road againAround the World with Jan
    The cathedral in Newcastle - impressive
    The cathedral in Newcastle - impressiveThey say this was the model for Sydney Harbour Bridge1The heart of Newcastle on a sunny dayThis water does not look invitingArbeia Roman Fort, South ShieldsSome in the railways has a sense of humour - WallsendYes, I'm going the right way

    Walking the Wall, but not yet

    July 16, 2023 in England 🌬 19 °C

    I know I’ve been a bit quiet since I got to the UK but I haven’t done any serious walking, until today. Supposedly 25km, it felt a lot longer. Hard surfaces, fighting a headwind along the River Tyne, it was hard work even if it was flat.

    There’s not much of the wall to see on the first day from Wallsend to Wylam (I’m in a small village a bit off the path) in the most beautiful old guest house with high ceilings and in an enormous room. These places are destinations on their own. I love it.

    Anyway, let’s hope tomorrow is a little easier, 15km and there will actually be some of the wall along the trail.

    I really enjoyed my time in Newcastle. I had no idea how beautiful the old Georgian buildings were. Unlike so many other countries, they’ve been preserved and I was staying just off Grey Street, voted the best street in the UK.

    It was busy, last week was graduation week so parents and their offspring were out on the town celebrating. I spent the last couple of days at Whitley Bay right near the ocean. Crazy people swimming in water that was only 13C. It was not warm.

    I spent yesterday at the Roman Forts – got drenched 3 times, thunder, lightning, hail, you name it, the weather gods threw it all at me. Thank goodness today was dry. The museums so far have been exceptional. I hope there will be more to see on the way.

    I think tonight will be an early one. All of me aches, it was a tiring day. Pizza for dinner and an early night.    Read more

  • Around the World with JanOn the road againAround the World with Jan
    Ready to go
    Ready to goJust the beginningThe view was never boringAnother beautiful dayUp to the glacierThe volcanic desert, not much grows here1Made it1Are we really going to climb up there?Down the other sideThorsmork, the last day

    The wanderer returns

    July 7, 2023 in Iceland ☀️ 16 °C

    Well, the hiking is done and I’m back in Reykjavik. Some of the trails were quite hard, the terrain nothing less than stunning, always. We slipped and slid on volcanic sand, navigated narrow trails across landslides and trekked over snow. We slogged up steep hills and slid down again. At times it felt like we were never going to get to the top, but we did, all of us and lived to tell the tale.

    We started our trek at Landmannalaugar and were surprised just how many people were out there hiking. There were 16 in our group plus our guide, Zach. I was the only Australian. Our accommodation was multi-share in every sense of the word – 8 to a long double bunk each with a single mattress. We were glad of the huts, outside was pretty cold. The hot shower we could pay for at each campsite was a bonus to wash off the fine dust that covers everything after a day's walking.

    We were blessed with gorgeous sunny weather, the only rain we had was after the day’s hiking was over and it didn’t last long. Clear skies meant we had amazing vistas of the glaciers and those volcanoes, the names of which no-one can pronounce.

    I wasn’t prepared for how beautiful the rhyolite hills would be – the vivid reds and oranges contrasting with the stark black lava and brilliant green vegetation where there was any. The first two days were spent walking through that terrain, I never got tired of admiring the view. The landscape was split by deep canyons with glacial water surging through narrow rock faces. You can’t see the canyon until you’re right at the edge. Some of the edges were a bit too scary for me to look down.

    We walked through a pitch black obsidian desert called Hrafntinnusker which seemed to go on for ever, starkly contrasting with the rhyolite hills around us. The chunks of obsidian looked like pieces of glass, dragon glass if you’re a Game of Thrones fan. The whole landscape looked like it was from another world. It was never boring.

    We crossed rivers that flowed directly from the glaciers – some of it quite deep but fortunately we were able to cross on foot – no bridges for many of them. One of the highlights for me was the day we trekked up to volcanic craters Magni and Modi, named after the sons of Thor, which were formed after the 2010 eruption. We had to cross the Devil's Spine hanging onto a chain - pretty scary for me but I did it, legs shaking when I got to the end.

    When we emerged from the volcanic terrain and descended into the Thorsmork valley we walked through beautiful birch forests with stunning flowers, quite a contrast to the treeless landscape we walked through for almost 4 days.

    We were all tired by the time the bus took us back to Reykjavik but everyone was amazed by what we saw and what we achieved. A great group of people, who supported and helped each other walk on some pretty tough terrain.

    Since July 4 one of the volcanoes about 30 minutes away from the city has started to rumble and there have been tremors. I got a shock last night at the Sky bar where I was having a drink on the 8th floor - the building shook while we were sitting there. It may be common for the locals but we tourists got a bit of a surprise.

    Next stop England where I think the hiking will be a little easier with no scary steep bits.    Read more

  • Around the World with JanOn the road againAround the World with Jan
    The rainbow street leading to Hallgrimskirkja
    The rainbow street leading to HallgrimskirkjaA passing localA little hidding image - the author lived here for a whileA protest poster

    Same same but different

    June 29, 2023 in Iceland ☁️ 9 °C

    Finally made it to Reykjavik feeling like the living dead after 27 hours. The city is familiar but not the same, busy and rowdier, not the quiet town I first visited 5 years ago.

    The airport at Reykjavik was humming, very busy with lots of flights coming and lots going out – heaps from the U.S. and UK. The landscape between Keflavik airport and Reykjavik is bleak at the best of time because of the dark volcanic rock. The only dash of colour in the grey sky and ocean were the darting arctic terns diving down into their nests in the grass.

    It was much colder than expected, probably only around 4 or 5 degrees – brr. I needed my big coat. Despite the cold, the town is buzzing with tourists. Quite a lot of older people here, probably the only ones who can afford it. I was shocked – prices are at least 50% higher than when I was here last in 2018.

    My next post will be after the hike – no phone, no internet, it will be really nice to have no technology for 6 days.    Read more

  • Around the World with JanMy Caucasus AdventureAround the World with Jan
    A small example of the street art
    A small example of the street artThe peace bridgeYes, someone lives hereFruit and juice for saleA city of contrastsThe old city wall near my hotel

    Back in the city

    August 26, 2022 in Georgia ☀️ 32 °C

    Well the hiking is over and I’m back in Tbilisi making the most of a nice hotel and enjoying the sights of the city. It’s a busy crazy place full of tourists but it isn’t quite as hot as it was before we headed into the mountains.

    Georgia really has a rich and interesting history but also one of invasion and occupation. There are some amazing artefacts in the museum dating from the 4th and 3rd centuries B.C. onwards – beautiful pieces of jewellery in silver and gold set with semi-precious stones.

    There are churches on almost every corner, cobbled streets in the old town and strange modern buildings that look a little out of place. And the traffic, crazy, noisy and constant. There are multiple tunnels under the road to allow pedestrians to cross –there are very few lights and you can’t always guarantee that the cars will stop at a pedestrian crossing without them.

    The old town is much quieter – some streets are very narrow so not so much traffic just lots of people. There are restaurants and bars everywhere and also galleries and tourist shops. Georgian food and wine is inexpensive and if you can’t find something to eat here you aren’t trying.

    I’ve enjoyed my time in Armenia and Georgia – I’m glad I got to come here because Georgia in particular faces an uncertain future and the young people are worried about what comes next. It’s definitely worth coming to this part of Europe, it’s quite unique, interesting and beautiful.    Read more

  • Around the World with JanMy Caucasus AdventureAround the World with Jan
    You can't beat the mountains
    You can't beat the mountainsThe waterfalls of UshbaWater gushing down into the valleyThe stunning wildflower displayNature at it's bestThere are no wordsAnother stunning vistaAnd another one

    Iprari, Caucasus Mountains

    August 21, 2022 in Georgia ⛅ 33 °C

    We’re well and truly in the mountains now. Everywhere you look there’s this amazing vista of jagged peaks, snow capped mountains and glaciers. We’re really only a short distance from the Russian border up here.

    The walking is steep at times and the track stony and dusty. It’s very dry and can still be hot during the day.

    The wildflowers are all in bloom and they make an amazing foreground for pictures. There are butterflies everywhere and bees of course, they make a lot of honey in the Caucausus mountains.

    The local wine takes a bit of getting used to, not least because it comes in a plastic bottle. A lot of it is home brewed and it’s designed to be drunk immediately. A glass is about all I can manage.

    The accommodation is more basic but warm and comfortable and there’s a hot shower which is a bonus after a day of what’s reasonably hard walking.

    We’ve just done our hardest day – 22km and it was hot and dusty but the views were to die for. It doesn’t get much better than this.

    A few more days then we’re back to the city and a few final days of culture and history after the trip finishes before I come home.    Read more

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