Mexico

January 2024
A 21-day adventure by Lucy Read more
  • 4footprints
  • 1countries
  • 21days
  • 29photos
  • 2videos
  • 39kilometers
  • Day 3

    Xochimilco

    January 11 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    In the morning I took a tour of the Xochimilco canals, which are like a live museum of how Mexico would once have looked. The city is built on a lake and transport around the city would once have been via a canal system but these have gradually been drained or filled in. The land in between the canals is known as chinampas and in largely agricultural, these are surrounded by willow trees which help to keep the land compact. The canals were really peaceful and we saw herons and migratory pelicans amongst other birds. We also stopped at an axolotl sanctuary to learn more about the different species that once lived in the canals. These are now largely extinct from the canals due to predation from non-native fish that were introduced.

    Visits to Xochimilco are often for drinking and boozy boat rides but being an old lady I booked a more chilled tour. Our tour guide, Miroslava is a cultural ambassador for Xochimilco and was full of passion for the history of her city. We began the tour at her cafe Dalia and had the most delicious coffee I have ever tasted. We then visited the market to buy the ingredients to make tamales.

    We then took a boat from the central port, where the canals are quieter. On the boat we started to make our tamales. Inside corn husk we put onion, mushrooms, greens and an aloe type leaf, topped with chilli infused cheese. We wrapped this all in corn husks and placed on heated charcoal for 40 minutes. The tamales were delicious and we finished our lunch with a shot of mezcal with tamarind juice.

    I'm so glad I took this tour and avoided a boozy boat ride. It was such a fun and relaxing start to my travels.
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  • Day 3

    Coyoacán

    January 11 in Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    I took an Uber from Xochimilco to Coyoacán to meet up with old Madagascar friends - POW and Andrés. I arrived a little early so wandered through the market and to Frida Khalo's blue house (tickets to go inside have to be booked in advance and I wasn't organised enough). I then wandered across the museum of popular culture and took a look inside.

    The first exhibition was the most wonderful display of pottery I think I've ever seen. Most were by a Oaxacan potter called Dolores Porras. In other rooms there were beautiful tapestries and figurines and a dinosaur skeleton intricately decorated with beads. There was a room dedicated to different depictions of the Nativity and another showing death in many forms.

    I met up with POW and Andrés in a little cafe and we spent lots of time reminiscing and catching up. We then walked around the town and took a look in the Parroquia San Juan Bautista, catholic church. POW and I drove up to Condesa and had pasta for dinner at Nonna.
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  • Day 4

    Castillo de Chapultepec

    January 12 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Easy day today. Healthy brunch at Camino A Comala in Condesa and then a walk through Chapultepec park to the castle.

    The castle wasn't much to look at from the outside but the inside was a museum full of fancy decor, stained glass and art work. The first part that I visited is known as the Alcazar and shows rooms, jewelry, paintings and other objects from the times of Emperor Maximilian I and Carlota during the second Mexican Empire (1864-67) and of President Díaz (1876-1911). From the terrace looking east you can look down Reforma avenue towards El Ángel de la independencia. The highlight of this part of the castle was a series of stained glass windows from around 1900 that depict five Roman goddesses - Pomona, Flora, Hebe, Diana and Ceres.

    The second part is filled with art exhibits with some incredible mural paintings from the 20th century. These include El Retablo de la Independencia by Juan O'Gorman. Outside there is a beautiful garden surrounded by trees. There was also a stage where dances were practicing for a performance.

    Afterwards I met Joanne (staying at the same hostel) and we went for a late lunch at Monstruo de Agua. We shared plates, the best of which was mole with plantain. We then went to Joe's Gelato for Ice-cream, I had guava and ginger and chocolate hazelnut. Now back at the hostel for an early night.
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