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Mexico
  • Lucy Prescott

Mexico

A 21-day adventure by Lucy Read more
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  • Trip start
    January 9, 2024
  • Lucy PrescottMexicoTraveler

    Xochimilco

    January 11, 2024 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    In the morning I took a tour of the Xochimilco canals, which are like a live museum of how Mexico would once have looked. The city is built on a lake and transport around the city would once have been via a canal system but these have gradually been drained or filled in. The land in between the canals is known as chinampas and are largely agricultural, these are surrounded by willow trees which help to keep the land compact. The canals were really peaceful and we saw herons and migratory pelicans amongst other birds. Along the way, we stopped at an axolotl sanctuary to learn more about the different species that once lived in the canals. These are now largely extinct from the canals due to predation from non-native fish that were introduced.

    Visits to Xochimilco are often for drinking and boozy boat rides but being an old lady I booked a more chilled tour. Our tour guide, Miroslava is a cultural ambassador for Xochimilco and was full of passion for the history of her city. We began the tour at her café, 'Dalia', and had the most delicious coffee I have ever tasted, in was infused with cinnamon. We then visited the market to buy ingredients to make tamales.

    We took a boat from the central port, where the canals are quieter. On the boat we started to make our tamales. Inside corn husk we put onion, mushrooms, greens and an aloe type leaf, topped with chilli infused cheese. We wrapped this all inside the corn husks and placed them on heated charcoal for 40 minutes. The tamales were delicious and we finished our lunch with a shot of mezcal with tamarind juice.

    I'm so glad I took this tour and avoided a boozy boat ride. It was such a fun and relaxing start to my travels.    Read more

  • Lucy PrescottMexicoTraveler

    Coyoacán

    January 11, 2024 in Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    I took an Uber from Xochimilco to Coyoacán to meet up with old Madagascar friends - POW and Andrés. I arrived a little early so wandered through the market and to Frida Khalo's blue house (tickets to go inside have to be booked in advance and I wasn't organised enough). I then wandered across the museum of popular culture and took a look inside.

    The first exhibition was the most wonderful display of pottery I think I've ever seen. Most were by a Oaxacan potter called Dolores Porras. In other rooms there were beautiful tapestries and figurines and a dinosaur skeleton intricately decorated with beads. There was a room dedicated to different depictions of the Nativity and another showing death in it many forms - my favourite being the drunk grim reapers.

    I met up with POW and Andrés in a little café and we spent lots of time reminiscing and catching up. We then walked around the town and took a look in the Parroquia San Juan Bautista, catholic church. POW and I drove up to Condesa neighbourhood and had pasta for dinner at Nonna.    Read more

  • Lucy PrescottMexicoTraveler
    View down Reforma avenue
    Pomona - goddess of fruit trees, gardens and orchards.Flora - goddess of flowers.Hebe - goddess and personification of eternal youth.DianaCeres - goddess of agriculture, grain crops, fertility and motherly relationshipsEl Retablo de la Independencia

    Castillo de Chapultepec

    January 12, 2024 in Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Easy day today. I started with a healthy brunch at Camino A Comala in Condesa and then took a walk through Chapultepec park to the castle.

    The castle wasn't much to look at from the outside but the inside was a museum full of fancy decor, stained glass and art work. The first part that I visited is known as the Alcazar and shows rooms, jewellery, paintings and other objects from the times of Emperor Maximilian I and his wife Carlota, during the second Mexican Empire (1864-67) and of President Díaz (1876-1911). From the terrace looking east you can look down Reforma avenue towards El Ángel de la independencia. The highlight of this part of the castle was a series of stained glass windows from around 1900 that depict five Roman goddesses - Pomona, Flora, Hebe, Diana and Ceres.

    The second part is filled with art exhibits with some incredible mural paintings from the 20th century. These include El Retablo de la Independencia by Juan O'Gorman. Outside there is a beautiful garden surrounded by trees. There was also a stage where dances were practicing for a performance.

    Afterwards I met Joanne (staying at the same hostel) and we went for a late lunch at Monstruo de Agua. We shared plates, the best of which was mole with plantain. We then went to Joe's Gelato for Ice-cream, I had guava and ginger and chocolate hazelnut. Then back to the hostel for an early night.    Read more

  • Lucy PrescottMexicoTraveler

    Polanco

    January 13, 2024 in Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Polanco is one of the fanciest neighbourhoods in Mexico City with some Michelin star restaurants. After the Anthropology museum I walked half an hour down Reforma Avenue to Polanco. By this point I was starving and found a nice little café that made a great omelette and my first refried beans of the trip.

    I spent an hour or so wandering around the streets, feeling very underdressed and poor! The neighbourhood had a couple of nice parks, as usual for Mexico City there were lots of dog walkers.

    I then headed back to the hotel to meet my tour group for the next couple of weeks. I booked a 2 week trip with Intrepid to ease myself into travelling and so that I didn't have to do some of the long trips through Mexico alone. We met up at the hotel and our leader, Sabina took us to a nearby restaurant for dinner. First impressions were great, there were to be 16 of us in total with a real mix of ages from early twenties to mid seventies. I'd clearly just missed a pro-Palestine demonstration in the city centre as I saw lots of people with placards and flags.    Read more

  • Lucy PrescottMexicoTraveler

    Museo National de Anthropologie

    January 13, 2024 in Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    I treated myself to french toast for brunch at a cafe next to a park in Roma Norte, where I could watch all the morning dog walkers. This ended up being less enjoyable when I realised I'd forgotten my purse and Google Pay didn't work. So I had to leave my phone with the nice waiter and run back to my hostel for money.

    I'm not sure I fully experienced Roma and Condesa during my stay as I didn't really see the hype - lots of restaurants and cafes but otherwise I'm not sure.

    I did a quick bag move to a central hotel and then took an uber out to the Museum of Anthropology. This museum is IMMENSE!! I spent 2 hours there and barely scratched the surface. There are so many artifacts, murals and reconstructions. It goes right through the evolution of man, to the first arrivals to the Americas through to Teotihuacan (~100-700AD), the founding of Tenochtitlan (Mexico City, ~1325) by the Aztecs, and the great Mayan empires.    Read more

  • Lucy PrescottMexicoTraveler

    Centro Historico

    January 14, 2024 in Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Action packed day exploring the historic centre of Mexico City. I headed out early for coffee and pastries with our tour leader Sabina. I then went off to explore the local artisan market where I found the cutest dungarees ever.

    On Sundays they pedestrianise some of the central streets and it was great to see people out running, walking, skating, cycling through the car free areas.

    I met up with Monica, an Aussie girl on the tour, and we went to look inside the Palacio de Belles Artes. Inside it was filled with murals and art exhibitions.

    My favourite part was a photography exhibition on the top floor showcasing the cities geography and socio-political history. There were reconstructed photographs showcasing the old city Tenochtitlan in comparison to the current city and showing lost ruins amidst the current buildings and neighbourhoods. There was also a section covering the protest movement against femicide.

    I took Monica to a café that I had visited on my first day, to enjoy lunch overlooking the palace. We then walked past the house of tiles and the Plaza de la Constitución towards the ruins of the Tenochtitlan Temple Mayor. The Plaza was fenced off and guarded by police as inside a group had gathered to fly kites in solidarity with Palestine.

    When we entered the Museum I thought we had made a huge mistake as it was packed with people. Once we'd paid however and made our way to the main part of the museum the crowds thinned and we enjoyed reading about the history of the site and seeing all the artefacts found there. The city of Tenochtitlan was founded due to the realisation of a prophecy, that a great city would be founded at a location signalled by an eagle with a snake in its beak, perched on a cactus. The Mexica (or Aztecs) saw this vision on an island in what was Lake Texcoco and the city was built out from there. Despite the poor terrain, the Mexica built the city using a chinampa system to dry and expand the island.

    We popped in for a quick look around the cathedral before heading to meet the rest of the group for a taco tour.    Read more

  • Lucy PrescottMexicoTraveler

    Tlahuac

    January 15, 2024 in Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    This morning we headed out of Mexico City towards Puebla. On the way we stopped at Tlahuac, an old town in the south east of the Valley of Mexico. Here the canals and chinampas are still intact and we took a boat ride to see a family run farm on one of the chinampas.

    On the boat we were treated to the local coffee and tea, which is infused with cinnamon and is silky smooth. When we arrived on the chinampa we took a walk to see all the produce being grown - lettuce, cabbages, broccoli, cactus etc. We were then shown how to make tortillas before being treated to a delicious lunch of tlacoyos, which are tortillas stuffed with beans, cheese or pork.

    After lunch we headed back to the boat for a game of bingo and then jumped back into our van to continue on to Puebla.    Read more

  • Lucy PrescottMexicoTraveler
    Juan

    Puebla City

    Jan 15–17, 2024 in Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Day 1: We arrived mid afternoon and went for an orientation walk around the city. There is a lovely central square with a cathedral and I spotted lots of pro-Palestine graffiti. In the evening we went to watch Lucha Libre (Mexican wrestling), it was utterly ridiculous but the crowd went mad for it.

    Day 2: I spent the morning exploring the city with Monica. I bought 'Juan' the octopus who would become my travel buddy for the next 3 months. We shopped and checked out some cafes.

    In the afternoon Cathy and I walked up to see the Murales De Xanenetla. The murals were beautiful but I stood in dog poo which slightly ruined the experience. I cleaned my shoe up and then we then carried on up to a view point to look out across the town.    Read more

  • Lucy PrescottMexicoTraveler

    Oaxaca City

    Jan 17–19, 2024 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Oaxaca City: 17-19th Jan
    Day 1: We had a group orientation walk in the city centre. We went for lunch at the Mercado 20 de Noviembre food market and I tried a Tlayuda which is a traditional Oaxacan tortilla dish. Then we visited a chocolate factory and went mezcal tasting (I'm not a fan).

    Day 2: Beth and I went on a walking tour where we learnt about the history of the city and went to a photography exhibition of the Zapatista revolutionary movement. On the tour we tried horchata, visited an organic food market and ate tamales.

    In the evening we met up with Cathy. We watched a graduation celebration dancing down the street in classic Oaxacan style. Then we joined the crowds outside the cathedral to see what was going on. It turned out to be a concert based around a children's cartoon character, it was all rather bizarre so we headed off for a drink and dinner.

    Day 3: I visited the botanical gardens in the morning. The English tour was full so I hopped onto a Spanish one - it turned out several others had done the same. I followed the parts about the history of the city, having done the English walking tour the day before but mostly I just enjoyed looking at the garden and plants.

    In the afternoon I visited Barrio de Jalatlaco, a lovely neighbourhood with lots of street art and cafes. Back in the centre of town I walked upon some wedding celebrations before heading back to the hotel to prepare for the night bus.    Read more

  • Lucy PrescottMexicoTraveler

    Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca

    January 19, 2024 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    The English tour was full so I hopped onto a Spanish one - it turned out several others had done the same. I followed the parts about the history of the city, having done the English walking tour the day before but mostly I just enjoyed looking at the garden and plants.Read more

  • Lucy PrescottMexicoTraveler

    San Juan Chamula

    January 20, 2024 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    San Juan Chamula is an indigenous village 10km or so outside of San Cristobal in Chiapas. The village maintains pre-hispanic cultures and customs and is one of the most interesting and unusual places I have been.

    Our guide instructed us that no photos of people are allowed and photos inside of the church are forbidden, so apart from one photo of the outside of the church I will do my best to describe it all in words.

    We arrived at the top of a hill that drops down into the village. The day we arrived there were festivities happening with a fairground and stalls set up all around. The women of the village wear long black sheep's wool skirts (the temperatures are cool there) and then men wear the same as coats. Members of the village government wear white coats instead of black - the village is an autonomous state with no police or military.

    We first stopped by a graveyard where the crosses are in different colours depending on the age of the deceased (black for old age, white for the young and blue/green for others). We then walked down the hill to the jewel of the village, the church of San Juan Chamula.

    The outside of the church is a pretty white building decorated in banners, flowers and colourful carvings, nothing too out of the ordinary. It's once you step inside that you see the real magic of the place. The inside of the church is full of smoke from thousands of candles. There are no benches or seats, instead numerous rituals are being performed throughout the church. People, in what appears to be family groups, are sat on pine needles, with rows of candles on the floor infront of them. They are chanting or meditating or in one case about to perform the sacrifice of a chicken.

    Around the walls of the church are various statues and beautiful flowers. The whole thing is a real experience for the senses, the smells of pine leaves and smoke, the darkness lit by thousands of candles and the peace and spirituality of it all.

    As we left the church, musicians from outside began to play and move towards the entrance. Seemingly a part of the day's festivities.

    The whole visit felt like stepping into another world. Although they allow visitors and tourism, the locals did not look or interact with us. It felt like being in Dumbledore's pensieve, where we could experience their world but they couldn't see us. There was something comforting about that, that we weren't imposing or disrupting them in any way.    Read more

  • Lucy PrescottMexicoTraveler

    Parque National Cañon de Sumidero

    January 21, 2024 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    San Cristobal: 20th - 22nd January.

    Unfortunately I was feeling pretty ill with a cold whilst we were in San Cristobal so I didn't get to explore the city too much. From what I did see, I really liked the vibe. Lots of the streets are pedestrianised and there are lots of cafes, bakeries and good restaurants.

    On the Sunday I did manage to join the group for a morning boat ride down the Sumidero Canyon. This is part of a protected landscape with an abundance of birdlife - we saw herons, egrets, vultures, pelicans and my fave the kingfisher. We also saw spider monkeys and a number of crocodiles.

    The canyon walls reach up to 1000metres in parts. One section was an incredible formation resembling a Christmas tree, made up from calcium carbonate deposits that have been covered over by moss. During the rainy season this becomes a waterfall.

    There are problems with pollution and plastic was hugely visible despite regular clean up efforts.    Read more

  • Lucy PrescottMexicoTraveler

    Agua Azul y Palenque

    January 22, 2024 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Long drive from San Cristobal to Palenque. We stopped for breakfast at a lovely little spot with a great view across the valley.

    The roads were super windy and my head was completely blocked and full of pressure which was not a good combination. I arrived at Agua Azul waterfalls feeling pretty rough and skipped out on swimming.

    The temperature was a complete change to what we'd enjoyed so far with really high humidity. Luckily I was given a single room in Palenque so that I could rest up for the evening.    Read more

  • Lucy PrescottMexicoTraveler

    Mérida

    Jan 23–26, 2024 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Mérida: 23-26 Jan
    After a long travel day from Palenque, we hit the coast just in time for sunset. Unfortunately I'd missed visiting the ruins as I was feeling really unwell.

    The first morning in Mérida I went to see a doctor with Sabina as my head was full of pressure and I had vertigo. She did a slightly weird flush out of my ears, despite having looked in them and didn't see too much wax or anything else. I then picked up some antibiotics, decongestants and antihistamines.

    I'd perked up a little so we stopped for Gorditas and sorbet. I wasn't feeling very adventures so just had a gordita with beans, it was similar to an arepa. I rested for the rest of the day but went for dinner with some of the group to Museo de la Gastronomía Yucateca and had stuffed squash and Agua de Chaya con Piña to drink which is my new favourite juice.

    On the second day in Merida I was feeling more back to myself, albeit slightly spinny still. I joined Fede to do a free walking tour which was nice enough and then we had lunch at a vegan cafe with Monica and Cathy. I had a bagel with some unappetising looking vegan ham which turned out to be pretty tasty. I spent the afternoon by the hotel pool planning the next part of my trip.

    In the evening I went for Gorditas with Sabina, Fede and Monica. I felt more adventures so had a Gordita with Rajas (chillis, corn and sour cream) and Cochinita Pibil (slow roasted pork) which were super yummy. We then watched a concert in the park which had people dancing the Jarana - a traditional dance for the Yucatán which is also done whilst balancing a tray of drinks on their heads.    Read more

  • Lucy PrescottMexicoTraveler

    Chichén Itzá

    January 26, 2024 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    We left Merida bright and early (6.30am) to hit Chichen Itza before the heat and crowds. I took my turn at the back of the minivan which was cramped. We had bad covers of 80's rock ballards being played quietly through some speakers behind us, so every now and then burst into spontaneously signing along. It felt like the naughty school kids at the back of the bus (myself, Flutra, Cathy and Josie).

    At Chichen Itza we met our guide and he showed us around the ruins. We saw the pitch for a Mayan ball game that is apparently a mixture of all sports and the aim is to get the ball through a hoop high up on the long sides of the pitch. Rules to the game seem to vary depending on which Mayan site you are visiting. Here depictions of the two teams are carved into the stones around the pitch. They show two teams of 7. They are shown wearing protections, covering various body parts used to hit the ball - foot, hip, forearm etc. One of the team captains is holding the head of the other captain, whose remaining neck is spurting blood with snake heads. Reportedly the captain of the winning team would be sacrificed and the rest of his team and their families would move up a level in society, whilst the losing team would move down a level.

    We then saw the Temple of Kukulcán which is the most famous building at the site and a UNESCO world heritage site.

    After spending a couple of hours at the archeological site we left and went for a home cooked buffet not far away. This was the most delicious meal of the trip so far. We had Cochinita Pibil, chicken, refried beans, chaya, guacamole and much more.

    We stuffed ourselves within what felt like minutes and were soon on our way to the final stop of our tour through Mexico, Playa Del Carmen.    Read more

  • Lucy PrescottMexicoTraveler

    Playa del Carmen

    Jan 26–28, 2024 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Playa Del Carmen: 28-30 Jan

    Final stop of the tour. We went for a group dinner at Zenzi beach for our last night together. On the Sunday I met Monica, Sabina and Fede for breakfast and then had a quick dip in the sea.

    I had an insanely good lemon tart in the afternoon before meeting some of the group at a taco restaurant. We knew the tacos would be good as there was a long queue to get a table.

    Otherwise not much to report from Playa. It's mega touristy and not my sort of place at all. Still nice to reach the coast and enjoy a couple of days with the group.    Read more

  • Lucy PrescottMexicoTraveler

    Bacalar

    Jan 28–30, 2024 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Bacalar: 28-30 Jan

    Headed to Bacalar with Monica for a couple of nights.

    On Tuesday morning we headed to Los Rapidos where you can bob down the river with a life jacket. In the afternoon we went paddle boarding on the lagoon. It was supposed to be a sunset tour but there was too much cloud. We paddled out to the pirate canal but it was windy out on the water, it was cold and difficult to paddle so we ended up catching a boat ride back.Read more

    Trip end
    January 29, 2024
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