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Escape to USA, France and UK
  • Rosie Marzouk
jul. – dec. 2021

Escape to USA, France and UK

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  • Rosie MarzoukEscape to USA, France and UKReiziger
    Amuse bouche
    EntréesMainsCute hotel

    At Châteauroux - a city

    10 september 2021, Frankrijk ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    A rather arduous day today, in total we have walked about 27 kms, including walking back to the chemin from Neuvy Pailloux (3 kms from the hotel) and extra walking now and then to see which route had signs! Anyway, we survived with no aches or pains, just rather tired!

    But again, I have the dinner from last night to report…again, it was amazing. Our hotel, which was rather equivalent to a roadside motel, produced the most beautiful food - in taste and presentation. Even a fancy and delicious amuse bouche to start. We drink local wine usually, not on the international market, but we love it. This dinner Amr started with a lentil and fish dish, and I had a gazpacho (with many side garnishes), Amr had fish and I had duck for mains. Both fantastic, and the accompanying vegetables were all little specialties in themselves…hard to describe. Imagine perfectly smooth mashed potato, wrapped in a cylinder of a very fine potato crisp, planted with chives and a nasturtium!

    Today I felt a little seedy, and I think it may be due to an overdose of this wonderful food - having to acclimatise to the butter and cream used to make it all so delicious. It doesn’t feel heavy at the time, but tonight we may seek out a Vietnamese meal (no hotel dinner tonight - we are on our own), and something very light.

    Setting off this morning it was cool - 18° - and some moisture in the air. It had rained quite heavily yesterday late afternoon, and a little during the night. After a while we took out ponchos, but refrained from actually putting them on, and it all cleared up, and during the long walk it was even sunny and a little too hot by the end. But a breeze, and mostly lovely walking conditions. One funny incident was when Amr was exploring a potential path (wrong as it turned out) - he saw 14 rusted Citroens from the 30s all sitting in a row in a field!!

    The first part was very pretty and comfortable but the last half of the walk got a little tedious as we approached Châteauroux. There was some highway walking, and then when we took the path around the city, a sort of ring road path, the signage through the fields got very poor and we just ploughed on and hoped, and then suddenly the signs would turn up again. It is always tedious entering cities, but we made it, and when we approached the centre Amr turned on his Google maps to lead us to the hotel. We got here just before 4 pm, so quite a long day. Cute hotel, small room, all good. We will sleep well tonight.    Meer informatie

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  • Rosie MarzoukEscape to USA, France and UKReiziger

    A delightful day - Argenton-sur-Creuse

    11 september 2021, Frankrijk ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Last night we had our Vietnamese dinner, lovely light meal, and lovely flavours that we haven’t had since before the lockdown in Sydney! Had breakfast in our cute little hotel - Hotel Élysée - which is on a corner by a roundabout. We of course had the window wide open, and there was quite a lot of noise going on when we went to bed - Friday night in the city, and people hooning round the roundabout…we are fairly used to noise and went to sleep, but in the early hours both woke to a lot of racket and closed the window - it was by then cool and airy - and there was absolute silence.! It was uncanny, realised there was double glazing on inspection, but it kept out every sound….Pity we didn’t realise it earlier, I would have overcome my need for fresh air!

    So this morning after breakfast at 9 sharp a taxi arrived to collect us and our bags. We were getting a 20 km lift to a tiny town so that we only had 15 kms to walk here - to Argenton-sur-Creuse….and the bags were carried on to the hotel! What a perfect system. And the walk today was also perfect…good signage, very pretty countryside through forests and rolling hills, and comfortable walking weather. We have finally, for the moment anyway, left the open expanses of grain fields, and walked through wooded paths, little country roads, past many castles and, being Saturday, we again even saw signs of a wedding at one of the castle entrances with flowers and names! Only 15 kms seemed a breeze after yesterday’s long effort, so we were very relaxed - had picnic lunch after about 10 kms, stopped for coffee/chocolate and wandered in at about 2.30. Hotel expected us, bags in room (excellent as upstairs, no ascenseur)!

    After the usual showering/washing and a bit of downtime we ventured out to see the town - it has been called the “Venice of Berry” so we were expecting something good. Well it didn’t disappoint - this is such a beautiful place. Venice made us think of canals, but there are none - just the Creuse river snaking through the town, and picturesque houses built on the banks, old bridges, just a lovely feel. And plenty of life, people out and about, enjoying a lovely Saturday. There is a high side of the town - a bit like Buda and Pest, and we climbed up to the high side where there is a chapel looking over the town. Then had a drink in the square and now back and relaxing before dinner, which is in the hotel tonight.

    Tomorrow should not be arduous either - 14 kms to Gargilesse, where we stay 2 nights. It is a small place, been named one of the “plus beaux villages de France “ so should be a pleasant sojourn.

    I will add photos here of the walk, and then make a separate entry for the Argenton photos, too many for one entry (you can only have 6) and they are so beautiful.    Meer informatie

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  • Rosie MarzoukEscape to USA, France and UKReiziger
    1
    131

    Argenton-sur-Creuse photos

    11 september 2021, Frankrijk ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    An extra instalment to show the beauty of this town, and to mention dinner - again! Just back from dining at this little 2 star hotel - le Cheval Noir - and of course it was perfect. We always have Paul approved glasses these days (except at the Vietnamese!) and the presentation and taste is amazing. Amr started with a lentil salad and foie gras, and I had a scallop and prawn dish, and he had a pork and veg (with mash to rival Paul’s) and I had fish…all perfect.

    The photos of the town are rather good as the light was so good, sun shining behind clouds..such a lovely place.    Meer informatie

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  • Rosie MarzoukEscape to USA, France and UKReiziger
    Ex railway track
    The Creuse2Emerging from the climb!First sight of GargilesseOur hotel on left, our room shutters open1The village

    At Gargilesse, very pretty village

    12 september 2021, Frankrijk ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Truly beautiful walk today, and only 14 kms, but there was one arduous section. We set off in the delicious cool, about 12° I think, and followed the path through just gorgeous woods, along a straight path that was once a train track, and through small villages and farms. Some ups and downs as we were near the Creuse, and it goes through a valley with fairly steep banks on each side.

    The difficult part came when we were well past half way, had walked by the river admiring the gorgeousness and came to a dam. Then the instructions were to go left up some steps and climb up between the rocks…and this did indeed involve clambering up the very steep hillside, grabbing branches, easier on hands and knees, but tricky with sticks and backpack… that didn’t last too long, but was a relief to reach the top!! Then it was quite easy, along roads and we knew we were only a couple of kms to Gargilesse.

    Just after our climb a man saw us and suggested a prettier way to walk here, through the woods instead of taking the road…at that point we didn’t feel at all like plunging back into the bush..he said there was a track, but they always have intersections and we felt we could get hopelessly lost! When we did arrive here, to this village on the side of a hill, we were glad we didn’t risk it, looking down at the wilderness! I think we disappointed the man…People here are so friendly and helpful everywhere we go…

    Arrived and had a beer at a little establishment as we walked in. From there we realised we could see our hotel - hotel des Artistes - just down the road…so easy this time. There are only 2 hotels anyway, and we did see a gîte, but a tiny village, totally picturesque, and a bit of an artists’ colony. George Sand is very big here (the other hotel is hotel George Sand!) as she lived here and loved the countryside here during her colourful life. Tonight we dine at our hotel, and tomorrow at George S, as our restaurant part is closed Monday. When we arrived at about 1.30 the restaurant was complet with Sunday lunch diners, and the fraught waitress didn’t want to deal with us (I can sympathise- she looked run off her feet!) but she took pity, our bags were there and she gave us the key…

    Amr found a much friendlier man - the boss I think - who was very friendly. He asked us how we had got out of Australia! He couldn’t believe we were here walking and having a holiday. The rules in Oz are getting notoriety everywhere it seems. Amr also found out from the man that we could have a bag of washing done for €7…excellent!

    We had an initial walk around, not far to go, and every house is charming. There is a château and a church that we will visit tomorrow, and explore down near the little river - the Gargilesse, which runs into the Creuse. But otherwise we will relax and enjoy our rest day and start walking again on Tuesday.    Meer informatie

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  • Rosie MarzoukEscape to USA, France and UKReiziger
    ChurchCrypt1Château

    Quiet, lazy day at Gargilesse

    13 september 2021, Frankrijk ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    We have had a lovely lazy day. Very therapeutic I think, though it goes against all instincts to be so idle!! This is a tiny place, so it didn’t take long to explore further than we did yesterday, but the houses and surrounding countryside is really exquisite. We had a bit of a walk after breakfast, discovered where we must walk out tomorrow, as even in small places like this the markings are hard to find among buildings.

    Having established that we walked along the little roads along the Gargilesse river (stream really) and got to where it joins the Creuse. We met a man on the bridge at the confluence who said that the river is very low at the moment because the dam (where we clambered) is under repair and is letting the water flow, so none building up as it usually would. It was very pretty though. And we went into the 12C Romanesque church. Very beautiful and amazing frescoes in the crypt.

    Came back to our room for a bit, and realised that there is nowhere to buy food for lunch today…so we went up to the bar where we had beers on arrival yesterday and had coffee/chocolate and they could offer a croissant! I remembered the muesli bars I have, and so we are quite ready for dinner at the George Sand restaurant tonight!

    This town is so small, but there is a constant flow of people coming through. Tourists I mean. Many retired-aged groups, or individuals, or cyclists and hikers. They appear, wander round, admire and take photos! We sat for a couple of hours on a bench in the place du château and watched the passing parade as we read our kindles. Very peaceful day. Our hotel is also very quiet. On Monday the restaurant is closed, so no passing people wanting lunch, and the whole place closed except for our secret hotel side entrance.

    Tomorrow we walk about 20kms to Crozant, and the walk sounds as if it continues on this gorgeous path of forests and rivers - and lakes - we will stay at the hôtel du Lac…sounds lovely! Hope there’s not too much clambering!    Meer informatie

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  • Rosie MarzoukEscape to USA, France and UKReiziger
    4
    11Disabled fishing!2Our hotel1Room with a view

    Crozant - a beautiful walk

    14 september 2021, Frankrijk ⋅ 🌧 22 °C

    An absolutely beautiful walk today, though it was quite full on - mainly because it is so humid. It rained in the night, which was perfect for us, and there will supposedly be thunderstorms tonight, but we didn’t walk in rain. But though the temperature maxed at about 24° it was humid from when we started at 9 am, and we walked about 21 kms - supposedly 18, but we had a bit extra to get down to our gorgeous hotel by the lake.

    Will first mention dinner last night at the George Sand hotel in Gargilesse…outside in the garden and just perfect. Pretty busy as the only place to eat on a Monday evening, and there were people in our hotel also that we didn’t know existed! And we even helped an oldish couple, with her very elderly mother, get into the hotel by the secret side entrance that is the only access when the restaurant is closed! They had the key but didn’t know where to go. People are so friendly, and very forgiving of our not perfect French, but we rarely get to speak in English.

    Our lovely hotel man was back this morning at breakfast, and we asked to buy things for lunch as our supplies had run out, and we doubted we’d find a shop along the way. He supplied bread, cheese, jamon (Spanish!) and refused payment, and also refused payment for the washing - said it was a cadeau! How kind…he spoke English and we did a bit of both.

    So we set off, and spent the day walking uphill, usually gently, and downhill, also usually gently except for one time when it was potentially hazardous - our Book said “slippery when wet” - and it was steep and uneven and rocky and wet (it rained last night, but not too heavily)..but we took care - don’t want to spoil the whole adventure with a sprained ankle or worse! And we found ourselves down by the Creuse again, all the time walking through spectacular scenery. Sometimes we were high along the plateau at the top of the banks, and sometimes in the valley. There were signs of camping, boating and fishing round here (we even saw a special place for people in wheelchairs to fish from!!

    We stopped at Éguzon for lunch - a small town but actually alive with a bar and a shop! We had our jamon sandwiches on a picnic table and went to the bar for coffee/chocolate- perfect, and knew we had about 8 kms to go. It was 9 by the time we got here, but it did seem to drag…the last few kms always seem endless when you are nearly there. But it was worth it…we passed the actual town of Crosant which is high above the lake and saw a sign to the Hotel du Lac down to the bridge, a little further on down the hill to the water. On sighting the hotel we hoped we weren’t mistaken as it looked so special - flags, kayaks, boats and people enjoying all this, and hiking…anyway, it was correct and we were expected and our bags were here! So good. We have a lovely room, looking out on the lake.

    Now have washed - ourselves and sweaty clothes - and had a beer. It is starting to rain, and the prediction is for rain on and off for the next week or so. Can’t really complain after 14 days of no rain walking. By the time we reach Limoges on Sunday we will be half way through our walk!!    Meer informatie

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  • Rosie MarzoukEscape to USA, France and UKReiziger
    Lentil salad with poached egg
    1Hotel du lac dinnerThe solitary German!Our hotel today

    Now at La Souterraine

    15 september 2021, Frankrijk ⋅ 🌧 21 °C

    A fairly easy walk today as we did another taxi deal! We were very happy to see that we had been organised to have a taxi ride from our beautiful hotel by the lake, as it was only uphill from there for quite a while. It poured with rain during the night, and we woke and decided to extend the taxi ride a little further…so we were left with 10 kms, which is manageable even if terrible weather! As it turned out, the dire predictions were as usual wrong, and it didn’t rain at all while we walked, or yet! It was cooler, and sometimes breezy, but still muggy when the sun tried to peep through.

    There were 6 walkers staying at the hotel, 3 couples all about 70, and they set off to do the whole walk before we left this morning. Tougher than us, but we have decided it’s not an endurance test, but fun and a holiday so we don’t feel at all bad about cutting our distances. I must say I will get more of a spring in my step if it cools down and autumn/winter sets in!
    Today we also met another pilgrim- a young German man who has been walking since June from northern Germany…we saw him on and off during the day, but he is staying further on so he will probably stay ahead of us. He was delighted to speak English as his French isn’t very good…The scenery today was just beautiful - lush open fields with cows, crops and woods which we also went through. Little villages, farms - the usual, but one of the best.

    Got to our hotel - the Porte St Jean (right by the old porte) at about 1.30 when they were flat out serving lunch…we finally got a key and our room and are happy to be left alone! We went looking for a dinner place, as dinner isn’t included today, and after walking the streets - this is a small town, but with shops, banks, etc.etc. - we had trouble finding anywhere open for dinner! One hope was a crêperie which sounded perfect, but closed Wednesday…so as a last resort asked out hotel people if the restaurant here is open tonight - and yes, so we are ending up here! Maybe they just don’t do a demi-pension deal.

    Anyway, will report on dinner tonight, it is bound to be good, even if the hotel staff are rather gruff! And I will include photos of dinner at Gargilesse in the lovely open courtyard, as yesterday there were too many beautiful walk photos, and also of last night’s dinner. Of course it was wonderful. The hotel (now the Crozant hotel) is run by a couple, who do everything it seems (probably more staff when things are booming)…so he had a menu, no choice, just what they had cooked today. And we sat by an open window by the lake, and watched a spectacular sunset….(even though it did rain!). A starter of grilled eggplant on a salad, with goat cheese and tomato, followed by a hotpot of fish (salmon and cod) in a lemon creamy sauce, with a little mould of rice with veg, a little frittata mould and a grilled half tomato…great presentation, and delicious!

    Tomorrow we walk about 20 kms again, to Bénévent L’Abbaye.    Meer informatie

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  • Rosie MarzoukEscape to USA, France and UKReiziger
    1
    2

    Bénévent L’Abbaye - a gorgeous walk

    16 september 2021, Frankrijk ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    We walked 21 kms today and it was just beautiful….it is getting rather repetitive saying this every day, but the countryside is just so lovely. Rolling hills, dairy farms with brown cows, some corn, saw a field today with celery and onions, cabbages (or cabbage family). Very pretty farms and villages…usually not a sign of life, but obviously things do happen! There are tractors rolling around a bit.

    When we left La Souterraine this morning, it certainly was bustling for such a small place. And yet our hotel was the only place we could find to eat last night… It was deliciously cool when we left at 8.15 this morning, but soon we feared it was starting to get sticky…and it did for a short while, but miraculously it passed and remained comfortable for most of the day. All the predictions of rain for the week have not eventuated happily for us, though there are always clouds looming- and protecting us from the direct sun! Had breaks at 5 or 6 km intervals, found a bench with flower boxes at each end in a village overlooking the panorama for lunch, and arrived here at about 2.30. The town is perched quite high, and we were hot and thought we’d find a bar before checking into the hotel. But a walk into the centre showed no sign of bars - there were people, a bank and post office…and a beautiful church, but there were people waiting outside looking serious, and flowers at the door…we thought there was about to be a funeral, so didn’t barge on in, but must look later this afternoon, or tomorrow morning on the way out.

    So we came to the hotel - very nice and quite posh. Hotel des Remparts, but not an old building (ie ancient - and in fact no sign of ramparts that we can see!) but 2 guys seem to run it and we had a very welcome beer while they got organised. Then we discovered that our bags had not arrived. So the very helpful man rang last night’s hotel, yes they were still there, and he rang our Cécile from Chemins de France and all got organised and they arrived in about 45 minutes. Phew, we were very sweaty! Amr was smug, as he always carries a change of clothes in his pack and I never do…I have faith! I don’t know if the problem was the taxi or the hotel, as there was rarely a helpful person at reception…Meanwhile we were shown to our room, and it is amazing!! Light airy, leading on to a terrace, will put photo. So a good place to be stuck without clothes. We showered anyway, and before long our bags were here. All very quiet, not sure if other people are staying, but dinner at the hotel so we don’t have to go hunting!    Meer informatie

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  • Rosie MarzoukEscape to USA, France and UKReiziger
    12Arriving at Châtelus-le-Marcheix1The petite maison

    Châtelus-le-Marcheix - yet another gem

    17 september 2021, Frankrijk ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    It’s good that I write this every day, as I already find it hard to remember this morning!! The days would just merge together….

    We had a very good morning, quite cool - in fact I even got rather cold at some times…so good! And again it didn’t rain, but the cloud cover kept the coolness for most of the day. The countryside has now definitely changed…we are in a sort of mountainous area - not alps, but hilly and extremely pretty. We walked mostly through forests - largely oak and chestnut trees - in endless tree tunnels, just gorgeous. And the ups and downs were gentle - we climbed quite high (Amr said we had an altitude gain of 582 metres!) but not in drastically steep inclines, except one at the end which was gentlish but endless, and one other one which was a surprise! Another surprise today was seeing some donkeys in a field of cows…Also we met another lone pilgrim today - a man from Nantes who was pulling his large pack in a little cart behind him. So we are not entirely alone, just very few walkers visible.

    We were to walk 19.5 kms from Bénévent and all worked perfectly…we followed the directions and markings with few worries, and got to the sweet little town of Châtelus-Le-Marcheix at about 2.45, even feeling quite cool and refreshed, and ready to find our BandB. Well it turned out to be another of those occasions when our accommodation is not actually in the town, the only address was “lieu-dit la clupte “ which was vague and when we asked in the town they said..oh far away…so our hearts sank and Amr turned on his Google maps and it was about 5 kms away…more than on hour’s walk! Luckily this place, La Pissarelle, featured on Google maps and we followed the directions - and of course there is a happy ending, as there always has been, as this place is just lovely. Right up out of the valley (that was our surprise climb) but a charming place - we are the only guests and have our own petite maison and are actually in heaven. Annie and Wolfgang, the hosts, are delightful. He is German of course and they both speak perfect English so we can even communicate relaxedly. We are having dinner with them at 8pm and I think we will enjoy it. And another plus is that the extra kms didn’t exhaust us at all, but we plan in future to check the address of these guest houses (we have quite a few coming up) the night before so that we don’t have any more surprises. Tomorrow we officially get picked up by taxi (with bags) and get dropped off so that we only have 20 kms to walk to St Léonard de Noblat, which sounds an interesting larger town (surely we won’t be staying out in the countryside!) and from the map it looks as if we cross the Dordogne river, (no have relooked at the map and it isn’t the Dordogne, but a big one) and it should be a beautiful walk.    Meer informatie

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  • Rosie MarzoukEscape to USA, France and UKReiziger
    7Dinner with Annie and Wolfgang
    St Léonard in the distance

    St Léonard de Noblat - beautiful town

    18 september 2021, Frankrijk ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    We walked exactly 20 kms to get to this lovely place - very historic, and its 11C collegiate church is a unesco world heritage site. Our guest house is in the Place de la Collégiale, and we look at it from our window! This time we are in the centre of things…

    But first I have to talk about dinner last night, at our beautiful guest house in the country, with Annie and Wolfgang, as it was quite an event. Firstly, it was like having a normal dinner with friends - we were the only guests and we had dinner with them. Wolfgang had some German pork and he was cooking something special he hadn’t done before….we ate in their sunroom - a glass encased room opposite our petite maison, looking out over the valley beyond. Started with a platter of tomato salad, with feta and basil, right up our alley, then the pork which was falling apart and delicious, with a torte de pommes de terre- yum potato dish. But it wasn’t just the food, though that was great. We had a very animated conversation - after the usual preliminaries, Wolfgang asked Amr what his family origin was, and when he said his parents were Egyptian they both got quite excited as their daughter-in-law is half Egyptian half Syrian (born in France). Anyway, that started things off…he asked if Amr spoke Arabic, and when Amr said yes, they had a small conversation in Arabic, because he had learnt some when posted in Abu Dhabi. So we learned that he had been a pilot in the German navy, and at 41 they stop flying and he went to Brussels, Canada, USA, and ended up as military attaché in Abu Dhabi for 4 years….interesting, and he and Amr got on like a house on fire…views similar - when living there they lived in the normal neighbourhood, not with all the expats, mingled with the people and loved it. They exchanged books to read…Annie, whose English not as good as W, was quieter, but joined in and told her version too. Anyway, it was a fantastic evening and so unexpected!

    So we left them this morning, and started our next day’s adventure…and each day does being something new and usually unexpected! We were driven in the taxi to Les Bellanges and had 20 kms to walk to St Léonard. Another gorgeous walk through picturesque countryside…I learned things from Annie and Wolfgang also…the mountains are the edge of the Massif Central. Also I learned that the crops that are planted amongst the stubble of the grain crops are not a crop for harvesting as I had imagined, but just to ploughed up and make the ground rich in nutrients ready for the post winter crops. And the cabbages I see are for animal fodder - though in Spain they do use the cabbages for wonderful soups!

    So we walked, a good well marked route. Crossed the big river, which turned out to be the Taurion, and the bridge was the Pont du Dognon….(which is why I must have glanced at the map and thought Dordogne)…Anyway, it was another good walk through stunning countryside, gently up and down…we stopped at lunch and had a small chat with Liv which was lovely. It had started to have a few drops of rain then, but stopped, but after another hour or 2 it did start to rain very gently…we ignored it as it was barely getting us wet (and our walking clothes dry very quickly) and by the time we viewed St Léonard in the distance it was a little more persistant, but we decided it wasn’t poncho-worthy, and walked into the town a little wet.

    Such a lovely town, small but narrow streets and old buildings. Easily found our lodgings this time, right opposite the famous collegiate church, and a very perfect chambres d’hôtes. We have a stunning room, our window a few metres from the church, and lots of space. Dinner was part of our deal here, but there is an art show in town with many French artists exhibiting (and Italian Amr says)..which our place is full…and we were sent to a restaurant for our dinner, as the art crowd are dominating his house…perfect for us, and at the moment they are all out on the town - Saturday night again (no visible weddings this week!).

    But tonight’s restaurant experience was again a first…and a French experience we had never seen! We were sent to a place called Le ResTaureau…we didn’t get it at first, though our hostess did mention boeuf. Anyway, we arrived and were expected, and sat down and he explained that the entrées and desserts were self serve, and we had 3 choices of main - beef tartare, beef on a skewer or steak! (Which is where the taureau - bull - comes in)…so we helped ourselves to the entrées (lots of varieties all in little plastic containers - tomato salads, prawns, snails, cucumber, terrines) then the mains, all with frites and lettuce garnish, then plastic desserts from the fridge!! Totally new French experience, and it was packed…so you never can tell or think you have learned what happens in places. I had a perfect steak, with green peppercorn sauce - done saignant, and Amr had the tartare. Everyone had beer or carafe wine…new experience, very good!

    Now off to bed, Limoges tomorrow, for 2 nights.    Meer informatie

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  • Rosie MarzoukEscape to USA, France and UKReiziger
    Collégiale at night
    The Vienne leaving St LéonardTimbered houses along the riverBridge entering Limoges

    Limoges for 2 nights

    19 september 2021, Frankrijk ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    We have made it to Limoges, half way to the Pyrenees our book says! It was a 22.5 km walk, and a bit difficult entering the city, but not too bad, and here we are at a very beautiful and very well situated chambres d’hôtes, 5 minutes walk from the cathedral.

    But I haven’t done justice to St Léonard yesterday, as it is such a lovely and historic town. It rained yesterday afternoon and we didn’t see lots, except of course the enormous collégiale church….and didn’t take many photos. The collégiale bells chimed every quarter of an hour during the night Amr tells me, but for once I heard nothing and slept like a baby and he was the one disturbed!! A first I think. I did have the help of phenergan that I had taken for very itchy legs (not bedbugs! Think I brushed against some foliage or some insect nipped me…and I’d wake with itch in the night)…

    And I keep remembering small funny things that I meant to mention…during the animated conversation with Wolfgang he asked how we had enjoyed dinner at Les Remparts the night before. That was the hotel run by 2 gay guys with the 4 poster bed. We said it was fine, but not the usual French meal…and he laughed and told us that François and Daniel used to run a small eatery, quite popular for a cheap meal (and the spareribs was one of the specialties) and then bought the building in Bénévent, which used to be an old people’s home, for €1 as the government wanted to offload it, and turned it into a hotel! Fun to hear this background, and explains why they were a little disorganised!

    I also didn’t hear all the artists come back to the “hotel” last night after their night on the town! I say hotel because it essentially was - a beautiful old stone building - and we came and went, with a code for the front door - and it was extremely luxurious. Our breakfast this morning was a special table just for us, separate from the artistes who had not risen by 7.30, with beautiful setting and freshly squeezed orange juice!! One way to our hearts.

    We left at 8.30 and it wasn’t raining, though did look as if it could some time soon, and our ponchos were easy to reach in our packs. And it was cold!!! About 12° I think, and I wore a jacket walking all day! A week ago I was complaining of heat. But I’m not complaining now, it was perfect walking weather. And the rain held off for most of the walking time. We headed out along the Vienne river, very pretty with old timbered houses, then headed gently but steadily uphill until we were way up from the valley, and walked on well signed paths. Not many photos as the distance was mostly misty. Had lunch at a small village, and the mayor walked by, introduced himself and wished us bon appétit, and an elderly couple also talked to us and we had quite a conversation. They lived in a nearby village that we had to walk through and asked us to have coffee there with them, so nice, but we said we needed to walk on to Limoges. We were joined there by a Dutch woman who we had met last night. In fact we met a few people last night for a drink before dinner. We had run into Leon, the lone German, and arranged to meet him, and then other odd walkers arrived - it was probably the only bar open - and we had quite a social time. Anyway, we saw the Dutch woman on and off today as we found our way into the city.

    It was a lovely entry, after negotiating the outer suburbs and industrial area, over an old bridge over the Vienne which runs through the city, and leads straight up to the cathedral. Our accommodation is just near the bridge and cathedral, and we have a fabulous room - light, airy and colourful. The husband is an artist and there are artworks around done by him. A great place to be for 2 nights. Our hostess has taken a big bag of washing for us and things are good. Except since arriving it has been really raining. Not the odd drops we had while walking. So we went out for a small explore, went into the magnificent St Étienne cathedral where we lit a candle for Ira, and had a drink, but it wasn’t weather for enjoying a walk of discovery, so we came back to relax and will do our exploring tomorrow. Our hostess booked us into the Crêperie near the cathedral for dinner (we fend for ourselves here, but she recommended it).    Meer informatie

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  • Rosie MarzoukEscape to USA, France and UKReiziger
    Art at our house
    1Camino chairs1Old bridge1Art deco train station1Inside train station3Lunch

    Quiet day in Limoges

    20 september 2021, Frankrijk ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Started with a good breakfast at our interesting guest house. Two other couples - from Belgium and England. There are 3 guest rooms in this house, which now that we have studied it from various angles, is quite weird architecturally…the original old house has been added on, with an upstairs wooden structure where the rooms are, but nothing looking quite straight - rather like an illustration in a children’s book! (Not sure that it would pass council regulations in Oz!). But we think it’s probably a work of our hostess’s artist husband. When we first arrived yesterday she said something about he had “quitté” and we weren’t sure if he had left her, or died…or what details we may have missed. But his work is everywhere and I googled him and found that he was quite a well known artist and ceramicist and indeed did die fairly recently aged 74 (she is quite a lot younger I think), and she was his “last” wife, and he has 5 daughters and 2 sons, so maybe a couple of marriages before? So now we know the background - the article I read was in French and only got the basic facts.

    So after breakfast we set off exploring, with umbrellas, but it never rained, just cloudy, so hope it holds off tomorrow…it was meant to rain today, and clear up Tuesday. We walked along the river, under the new big bridge with roads, to another old stone bridge. Very pretty. Then walked into the old centre, wanted to go to the markets but of course closed Monday, so we went to a Carrefour to get supplies for lunch tomorrow…important as not all small towns have a supérette. Next we went to the Resistance Museum which was interesting and well presented. And after that we walked to the Art Deco railway station and rather hoped that there’d be a cafe there to snack for lunch, but nothing - only food out of machines.

    So we searched for a patisserie, or cafe and had trouble finding any…when you don’t need anything you seem to pass them all the time. Finally had success and found a restaurant, not too formal, that did lunch, and let us have just one course of their menu, very friendly waiter, and a perfect solution. We knew we were getting veal in some form, and it turned out to be slices of meat on a circle of mash with a yum gravy!

    This afternoon we went to the porcelain museum which was interesting with all the old equipment they used to use, and photos, and it is attached to a huge shop with plates, tea sets, everything you could imagine that you could buy. Sadly a Limoges tea set is not compatible with our walking programme, so we weren’t tempted!

    Now about to go for dinner, but just light having had our veal and mash at a late lunchtime…    Meer informatie

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  • Rosie MarzoukEscape to USA, France and UKReiziger
    1
    1La Fromagerie2

    St Martin le Vieux

    21 september 2021, Frankrijk ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We left Limoges at about 8.30, and it took 2 hours (and 8 kms) to finally leave the outer suburbs and find ourselves in the countryside. Amr navigated us with map and instructions through the city, quite complicated crossing squares and up and down small streets. We discovered places that we hadn’t found yesterday en route, and a huge square full of bars and cafes that we’d love to have found at lunchtime yesterday! Also passed the market which was open and bustling today…Today we didn’t go through industrial areas to get out of the city, but in rather well to do suburbs, and in fact all day the area was more affluent it seemed - we didn’t see any crumbling buildings or farms.

    So we walked about 24 kms…meant to be 20, but add on the small distance from our accommodation at the beginning, and a bit to our (again) amazing accommodation tonight. It was a very peaceful and idyllic walk through the beautiful scenery. One larger town, Aixe-sur-Vienne, where we crossed the Vienne - quite a big river now - and where we stopped on a bench for lunch. One thing about crossing rivers is that you descend to them, then have to ascend up the other side, as most of the time we were in the higher country. We also crossed the Aixette, tributary of the Vienne, and followed alongside it for a while - truly beautiful, before coming up again - not steep climbs, just up!

    Passed a château, goose farm, lots of sheep, no vineyards and walked under oak trees, constantly crunching acorns. Arrived at this very small hamlet at about 3, and found that our place is out of the town a little, but along the camino, so we have even done a small bit of tomorrow’s distance! We knew we were staying at La Fromagerie which sounded lovely, but we were bowled over when we arrived. It is a very old stone building (will find out the actual date at dinner) but centuries old, and charmingly renovated inside to make a guesthouse. The hosts are delightful and greeted us and expected us and bags here…all perfect. Our hostess said she used to have goats and make cheese here, but she’s now given it up. They are probably in their 70s and we will have dinner tonight with them. Our room is of course delightful and we have showered and have plenty of time to relax and recover before dinner.

    I have sadly lost my hat…it disappeared somehow at last night’s place…I know I arrived with it and it was a bit wet, but leaving today it had disappeared…anyway, kind Amr has said I can use his. Not a crisis, but I was fond of that hat and it has done lots of our walks! And I like it as a hair controller! Maybe I can find one in Perigeux next weekend.    Meer informatie

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  • Rosie MarzoukEscape to USA, France and UKReiziger
    1Dinner last night
    Art shot1Wearing Amr's hatHatless Amr in tall treesYou can see forever2The room!

    Now at Châlus

    22 september 2021, Frankrijk ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    A beautiful day’s walk, about 18 kms. But to finish yesterday, we had a lovely dinner with Martine and Alain. We agreed to speak French and they were very kind and spoke clearly and we had a good conversation! And good food - not gourmet, but very satisfying…(their daughter is a chef in Toulouse)…we had sausages made with the local beef, rice, salad, cheese and dessert…perfect, and by 8pm we were starving! They asked where we were staying tonight and when we named the hotel in Chalus they sort of smiled and raised their eyebrows…they wouldn’t exactly say anything, but we knew to expect something a little down market…or weird…

    So we set off about 9, and it was cool, about 12°, and a little foggy but clear sky. It was beautiful and rather mystical for the first half hour. It soon cleared into a cloudless day, but not too hot, just perfect. So we just walked on, through picture postcard countryside in every direction. We’d have gradual long ascents and gradual long descents in the rolling hills, mostly walking on minor country roads with barely a car or even a tractor. Passed through pretty small hamlets and towns, and we just saying it would be nice to walk off the road through trees and that is exactly what happened…we were taken up into the most beautiful forests, with enormous trees. I’ve never seen oaks so tall. It is obviously a timber land, and we heard a chainsaw in the distance…when we were in the high land we could see forever.

    Then after several kms of tree tunnels we came out into civilisation again and were almost at Chalus. Easily found the hotel, on a fairly main road, and sort of a highway diner. We thought maybe our hosts last night just thought it wasn’t very classy and kept an open mind, and the host here welcomed us and expected us and had the bags. We had a beer first, then came up to our room.

    So this is quite a contrast …! Rather a weird network of rooms, but we found no 3. It has a shower cubicle standing like a telephone booth in one corner, a basin beside it and no visible toilet. We had seen a door with a big WC at the end of the corridor and thought oh well…but upon investigation and opening the door in the feature photograph wall of a waterfall we found our own toilet! (I thought it was a cupboard with coat hangers as there isn’t one). Travel broadens the mind, but I may take the precaution of sleeping in my silk sheet just in case of bedbugs…probably perfectly fine, but I’d hate to itch for the rest of the walk! Dinner here tonight will be fine - probably pizza the best option! Tomorrow an easy less than 20 km walk to La Coquille where we stay in a hotel again, but part of a chain which we have found very good…

    I have to thank people for their kind comments about my hat. I am still grieving and mystified as it was somewhere in that house - I walked in wearing it! But Amr gallantly lent me his hat, and will get out his Borselino to wear, and I will look for a replacement in Périgueux, but am not all that confident, based on other towns, that they will have a shop that sells hiking hats…..    Meer informatie

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  • Rosie MarzoukEscape to USA, France and UKReiziger
    12Amr in his Borsalino

    Idyllic walk to La Coquille

    23 september 2021, Frankrijk ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Today was maybe the most beautiful walk yet! We were glad to leave our weird and rather seedy hotel this morning….neither of us slept very well - I did sleep in my silk sheet which is never relaxing really, and we left the light on as bedbugs come out in the dark…there may have been none at all, but I wasn’t prepared to risk it!! Dinner last night was ok….not a normal (to us) French experience…but the food was fine. It was like we had another time, buffet entrées, buffet dessert, and you ordered your main. I had kidneys in a Madeira sauce, and Amr had sausages…the guy who runs the place is nice enough - a bit of a slob, but friendly - Amr asked him what his background was and it turns out his family was Jewish living in Spain originally. They left centuries ago when Spain banished the Jews and his family changed their name and went to Tunisia where he was born but he has now left as the Middle East not a Jew friendly place. The setup a little weird - he has a much younger wife and a small child - he is about Amr’s age Amr reckons. The hotel is really a truckie eatery, and was quite busy for dinner, but the hotel part is not his forte!

    So we set off quite early this morning in the very cool air - about 10°, and it remained comfortably cool most of the day. Another cloudless day. But we walked all day through the most gorgeous scenery. We are now in the green Périgord, and where we walked is a Parc Naturel - a huge area of park, with farms and little hamlets tucked in sometimes. We walked through countless tree tunnels, mostly chestnuts, between fields of sheep and cattle, and it was fairly level….no steep inclines, though we did come up to La Coquille. It was just pure beauty…

    And am happy to say that we are at a very nice hotel tonight!! Our bags arrived and we feel back to normal after last night, and should sleep well…dinner is here, so it is all easy. We have a nice room with a bathroom - not a room with the bathroom in the bedroom, and no silk sleeping sheet tonight.

    To continue the hat saga - I forgot to mention that the hat Amr is lending me is the Tilley hat that they (the Tilley people) replaced when he lost his hat in a train in Lyon 6 years ago! I remember that he got sympathy (especially from Simon and Peter) for that loss…and he has now unpacked his old Borsalino and wore it today - it looks rather battered and makes him look a bit like a hobo, but it protects his scalp - and I think it is straightening out!    Meer informatie

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  • Rosie MarzoukEscape to USA, France and UKReiziger
    11Goat cheese samosas and foie gras

    Addition to today at La Coquille

    23 september 2021, Frankrijk ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Had to add a small extra, as we are back in the land of fine dining and loveliness! We went for a little walk before dinner, not a lot to see, and the towns always seem deserted, except on weekends. Went up to the church and worked out where we walk out tomorrow - always makes Amr happy and relaxed…then we went back to the hotel and we’re the first diners (opened at 7 which is good for us…waiting till 8 is a bit late when you’ve been walking, though it was the norm in Spain.

    So we knew all was well when we sat at our table with cloth cloths and napkins, Paul approved glasses and the forks pointing down in the classy French manner. So Amr chose a Paul and Hartley approved wine from the Périgord region and we had a delicious dinner. As pèlerins we didn’t have the full choice (or an amuse bouche which we saw some other normal paying people have) but we had such a good meal, beautifully presented, and now back in the room trying not to go to sleep too early…Amr already has dropped his phone …..

    And after yesterday’s experience I checked the next few hotels leading up to Pèrigueux and they all sound fab…esp Saturday night where we are at the Auberge de la Truffe in Sorges, the centre of truffles in the region, and has a restaurant which sounds amazing - and we dine there…so good things ahead!    Meer informatie

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  • Rosie MarzoukEscape to USA, France and UKReiziger
    Grassy path
    1Talking to Cathy during lunch break!Beautiful hotel2

    Thiviers, foie gras capital

    24 september 2021, Frankrijk ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    I’m sure many towns in France that say they are the best place for foie gras and truffles, but Thiviers claims this honour in the green Périgord. And Sorges, tomorrow’s destination claims it for truffles. But there is the Périgord noir which is supposedly the truffle area, so who knows…as complicated as wine!

    So we left exactly at 9 as all the bells in La Coquille started chiming the hour…it was a lovely 18 km walk, not quite as breathtaking as yesterday as there wasn’t much forest walking through tree tunnels, but just along the shoulder of the hills through pastures and farms, sometimes on country roads, or on grassy paths. Cold as we left, and heated up as another perfect day. But not the humid enervating heat of the first week thank goodness. Tomorrow they predict rain, but we’ve given up believing it very much, and also the rain is not supposed to start till later in the afternoon and these 18 kms walks take us about 5 hours and we seem to arrive at about 2pm or round about, so hopefully it won’t even effect us. Today we went for about 5 kms in a straight line Amr says, but tomorrow we walk on an old Via Romana through hazels and orchards according to our Book, so that should be quite a straight line too.

    Thiviers turns out to be quite a bustling little town…more awake than most of this size so far. On our way in we popped in to the Mairie as we had noticed an electricity pole that was split and bent and looked dangerous as it was bound to collapse in a storm or high wind. Amr had taken a photo and the La Poste driver told us to report it to the Gendarmerie or the Mairie. We spotted a Gendarmerie when about 2 kms out of Thiviers and tried there, but they were closed till 2pm and it was 1.30… (no criminal activity during lunch break)…so we didn’t wait around - in fact this diversion made us miss a turn we were meant to make just before the gendarmerie..but with another couple of pèlerins (we actually saw another couple, none yesterday) we retraced and found the true path! And as we entered the town there was the Mairie with flags etc, so we masked up and did our civic duty - who knows if they will find the splitting pole!

    And then, almost opposite there was our wonderful hotel…Hotel de France et de Russie! And it has a restaurant l’Escapade des Sens, where we eat tonight so should be good. We have a room 2 floors up with a skylight window, and lovely old beams…it is an old house and came about in the time of the French and Russian alliance, and now run by an English couple for the last 5 years. They have a son who was in Melbourne last year (poor thing) and got stuck, but finally returned to England and hopes to return to Oz when all is normal again…he is in hospitality. After showering we went out on the town for a beer at Bar Foch in the market square, which apparently will be in full swing when we leave tomorrow morning. So will buy cheese, sausage, fruit perhaps.

    Now relaxing back in our room - but first the final chapter of the hat saga…it has reappeared, found folded in Amr’s jacket in his bag!! It is a mystery and we are not suggesting how it could possibly have got there…but at least our hostess in Limoges is off the hook, and we can go back to wearing our customary hats!!    Meer informatie

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  • Rosie MarzoukEscape to USA, France and UKReiziger
    2Thiviers market
    Mains last nightEndless via romanaUnder the spreading chestnut tree...1Walnut orchard1

    Sorges, town of truffles

    25 september 2021, Frankrijk ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Last night we had dinner at the hotel restaurant. Had a good bottle of wine, as Amr declared it the beginning of birth week! And the food was delicious too, though for a special restaurant I found it a little fussy - too many unidentifiable ingredients - and think I prefer the simplicity of some of the lesser but surprisingly good hotel restaurants that aren’t acclaimed. This is just an aside - it was a great meal - I had chanterelle stuffed ravioli with assorted veg in a sauce (and a foam…but hadn’t translated that!) and Amr had a tomato “steak” with chèvre burrata. Those were entrées and for main Amr had a lamb confit with mushroom and garlic and I had veal sweetbreads with mushrooms and many other unidentifiable bits and pieces in a good sauce. We shared a very light strawberry dessert.

    This morning we left about 9 but first went to the market which was in full swing. Bought some cheese - from a Dutchman who has been here for decades - and we got his best recommendation, an aged Gouda! It was delicious - crumbly and gritty like a very tasty aged cheddar…and Amr got also a boar saucisse, and of course we got some bread.
    Setting off we had a few hesitations getting out of town - we were expecting the Roman road, and people said just go right as you leave town, but our signs led us along little roads, through fields, up hill and down dale…started to wonder if the pilgrim way avoided the Roman road altogether. Then we finally came to it after about 9 kms (and there was a sign pointing along the other way saying Thiviers 6 km - so our path had taken the long way round, but we knew it was the true path!!) and we were glad that we only finally walked on it for 1.5 kms as it is straight like all Roman roads, and boring…now just a minor asphalt road but with cars now and then, going fast as it is so straight, so it wasn’t interesting to walk along and we were glad to branch off into the fields again, and along the paths by farms and little hamlets.

    We had also been promised orchards and hadn’t seen any till towards the end we came across very many organised and thriving ones, but couldn’t work out what fruit they were…green like small apples, but not perfectly round, and not quite pear shaped, then we saw one split open and realised they were walnuts. And I do remember walnuts from when we were in another part of the Dordogne area many years ago….so this is also walnut land. Our instructions had said hazels, but I think that something was lost in the translation as am sure they meant walnuts.

    Anyway, it was a lovely picturesque walk again, and no rain - in fact slightly too much sun as we arrived - at about 3 o’clock. Walked in, and the path led us past the Mairie, which is a stone building adjoined to the church, and there opposite was the Hôtel de la Truffe, our night’s resting spot. But it was all closed with a sign to go somewhere else for reception…all a bit muddling till some staff member inside called a man for us, who turned out to be the owner or manager who led us round the corner a few minutes walk away to the Auberge de la Truffe where their reception and restaurant, and probably some rooms too, are, and our building is a sort of annexe (beautiful old stone building) with extra rooms. A little complicated but makes sense, and they said our bags had arrived and were in the room waiting for us. We had to go to reception to get the key, so while there we stopped and had a beer and cooled down before coming back to the room to shower. All perfect really! I think we are going to have a truffly dinner there tonight…    Meer informatie

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  • Rosie MarzoukEscape to USA, France and UKReiziger
    Sundlower stubble

    Périgueux, a small city

    26 september 2021, Frankrijk ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    It is after 9 pm and we are back from dinner, and I’m really ready to read and sleep…but must try and write up today while it is fresh…first, we didn’t have a truffle dinner last night…we got to the restaurant, and when they realised we were half board (dinner included in our nightly rate) we had the menus confiscated and were told what our dinner was, no option! We didn’t really mind - had seen that the truffle menu was €118 per person, and it all was complicated, so were happy to have our simple but very tasty and satisfying meal, and delay our truffle experience. We did however partake of walnuts in a yum ice-cream of walnuts with chocolate sauce…

    So today we walked about 23 kms and it was a very surprising day. We had a slight feeling of doom as rain was predicted, and it poured last night - just before dinner when we were going to have a wander through the very small town - there was a wild storm…which didn’t last long and we walked to dinner without even getting wet…but it had another burst during the evening, and rained at night. So we set off knowing it was a longer than our recent 18 km walks, and we anticipated very muddy and soggy tracks and possibly rain while we walked. Also we knew we were walking again into a city,though smaller than Limoges, but walking into a city always has its problems…Well it turned out to be a fine day again, cloudy with sun breaking through, and the paths were not soggy miraculously - and we walked through continuously gorgeous forests, mostly level and different from the other forest days…we passed a little farmland, and saw fields of decapitated sunflower stalks, and our first vineyard for a while - but just a small backyard one, not serious ones yet. But it was just a constant treat of beautiful walking. And the signage was good, so no panic about directions. And I think we are getting into the Périgord blanc as there are white stones, often covered with moss, and we will come to the white limestone cliffs world.

    It was only a few kms out of Périgueux that it got a bit boring, but not hard as we just followed the road straight downhill into the city, which seems nestled in the valley. We knew our hotel was near the train station so turned off the path and headed for there, about a km out of the centre. Our bags hadn’t arrived - a Sunday problem perhaps as the hotels close during the quiet times and they are so sadly quiet at this time anyway…but our hotel man here was very helpful and soon they were sent by taxi from Sorges. We are here for 2 nights, rest day tomorrow.

    Having showered etc we set off to have an initial explore and maybe find dinner as not included here. Soon after we left it started raining and poured, and we sheltered in a bar with a beer (I had forgotten to bring my umbrella)…we are so lucky, rain after we have finished walking. It stopped soon, even almost sunny, and we walked round a bit in the centre, having decided to go back to that brasserie for dinner. And we just love this place. It is absolutely charming - has a lovely historic centre which we got lost in, and we even found a cafe de la truffe which is open tomorrow (so many places just open Tuesday to Saturday) so maybe the truffle treat will be tomorrow. Looking forward to a day of discovery in this lovely town. We are both reading a Martin Walker detective book at the moment, set here…they are fun books, and very appropriate for us here! All about food and life here while he solves the mystery. Our dinner was good…Amr had duck and I had linguini with coquille st Jacques …and a Campari…off to sleep now..    Meer informatie

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  • Rosie MarzoukEscape to USA, France and UKReiziger
    1
    21Candles for Ira and Neil13Pre haircut!The dutchman

    Rest day in Périgueux

    27 september 2021, Frankrijk ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Somehow you always seem to feel more tired on a rest day, than when you are walking 20 kms! Not that we are really tired, but having a mid afternoon relax after exploring this very lovely city. First we set off to see the enormous cathedral that we’d just seen from the outside yesterday…it is huge, in the shape of a Greek cross, with 5 domes and essentially 4 naves all facing into the central main altar, with many chapels on the sides of course and a cloister. Nothing is symmetrical and it is just beautiful and a huge space. We lit candles for Ira and for Neil Francis (mutual friend of ours and Ira) in a chapel for St Francis - very appropriate.

    Then we meandered the narrow cobbles streets of the old town, had a coffee/chocolate at the cafe de la Truffe and have rejected it for tonight’s dinner! None of the menus mention truffles…not sure what it is with truffles in this part of the world but it doesn’t seem to be available as an addition to a dish, but super special…(not like having truffle on a pizza or in a pasta etc!)…we will investigate and see if we can solve this mystery. I mean, I do realise that round here they are super special! We have seen a classier restaurant in another square and will maybe have dinner there, truffles or not!

    We ran into a pilgrim outside the cathedral, obviously checking directions on his phone and we all spoke together in not very good French till he said he was Dutch and we spoke English. Very nice man, he had run into our French couple and had heard about us…there is a pilgrim network! So we had a nice chat, and took photos together. He was heading for the alternate route via Bergerac so we probably won’t run into him again.

    We visited the archeological museum which was open on a Monday…so many things are closed, including shops and restaurants on a Monday, and just by chance this has been our rest day for the last 3 weeks. But plenty open, and lots to see. We went for a walk along the river, the Isle, which seems like a strange name for a river! It is a tributary of the Dordogne. Quite a large wide river and pretty looking over at the city.

    Walked back to our hotel via the Roman amphitheatre park…no rubble there and the Roman museum was closed, but it was where there had been a large amphitheater and was a nice park to sit in. Had lunch in a little bakery place - shared a croque monsieur and a quiche!

    Now back in the room and I gave Amr a birthday haircut with the hair cutting set we had bought at La Jolla - the same as Michael’s that I used to cut Michael and Amr’s hair, now about 2 months ago!! At first I got a fright and thought it was a different no. 2, as it looked so shaven - but I think it was the contrast with the fluffy hair he had grown! He looks good!    Meer informatie

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  • Rosie MarzoukEscape to USA, France and UKReiziger
    Abbaye de Chancelade
    1Post haircutChurch at Razac

    At Razac-sur-l’Isle

    28 september 2021, Frankrijk ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    We finished our stay in Périgueux last night with a dinner at a small restaurant serving local food in the old city. We shared a foie gras plate with onion and fig jam, and then each had a salad - Amr with a Périgord mix and I had gésiers (giblets) which I remember loving from before (and I love offal!)…I think I have solved the truffle problem, which should have been obvious…it isn’t truffle season - have looked it up, and it is a winter thing here, starting in November and best in January, so no wonder they don’t feature at the moment. Also, as Amr pointed out, the truffle taste we get on pizzas etc is just truffle oil - delicious, but not the real thing!

    It was cold - 8° - when we left this morning. I wore a jacket and kept it on for quite a while…and even when I took it off, I wasn’t hot, as by then we walked through trees and in shade for a lot of the time. It was a peaceful well-marked path today - perhaps the best. The people here have done a good job, and we rarely bother consulting the notes as they can be muddling or misleading. It took quite a while to leave Périgueux, through suburbs, or small satellite towns, and get into the countryside. It still is a well kept and affluent area.

    Our first point of interest was a huge Abbey at Chancelade, where we paused and admired and wandered and looked in. Then we went up hills and down hills for a while, over little streams and then up again, but reasonably gentle and of course, beautiful.

    We knew that tonight we are staying a little off the Way. And we easily reached the small town where we turned off and walked about a km to our hotel here in Razac sur l’Isle. And tomorrow we get a taxi transfer (with our bags) and get dropped so that we only have 19 kms to get to Mussidan, the bags get taken on to the hotel. Perfect. We stopped for lunch today and finished the cheese, and had muesli bars and chocolate, then stopped for coffee/chocolate at a bar just before reaching here. But find I am hungrily waiting for dinner which isn’t for 2 and a half hours!! Tomorrow we will see if we can buy a baguette and some cheese from the hotel, as it is hard to find grocery shops in these small towns.

    This is a dear little town though. We did have a wander after washing to see if anything open…and had a beer as there was a bar, but no groceries! They keep threatening rain, but today it was lovely, and sunny, though clouding over a bit. Perhaps tomorrow will be the first rainy walk…we realise we are well over half way, and even approaching the end of this pilgrimage. Today is the first of 11 straight walking days, then we have a rest day in Mont de Marsan, and only 6 days after that…2 and a half weeks!    Meer informatie

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  • Rosie MarzoukEscape to USA, France and UKReiziger
    2The perfect egg
    4The "garden" dessertOver the valleyOutside our room

    Mussidan - first rainy day

    29 september 2021, Frankrijk ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Actually, we are at a little village near Mussidan, at a very lovely chambres d’hôtes, and though it did rain a bit, we didn’t get soaked. But first last night’s dinner. Again, our little hotel did us proud. The demi-pension menu gave us a choice of all 3 courses (not the set menu of the day) and we had an added started of a delicious vichyssoise type soup…(?an amuse bouche!). Anyway, as usual taste and presentation were amazing..I started with an œuf parfait, and it indeed was the perfect egg! Very lightly cooked but intact over a butternut purée, some delicious sauce, the inevitable walnuts, fruity toast sticks and a cheese net…too much description and I won’t describe every dish of each course, but it was just so yum. And I have to mention my dessert which was a trompe d’œil and turned out to be a “garden” served on a plate like a garden spade…and all this at a modest hotel!

    We got our taxi ride at 9 am to the appointed place, in the middle of nowhere, but found the signs and set off. Had ponchos ready as rain was predicted, and it had been raining as we had breakfast. But it held off for quite a while, and we walked till it started to more than sprinkle before putting on ponchos and it rained for a bit - our first taste of real rain while walking. There was another couple today who kept passing us, then we’d pass them while they stopped etc..middle-aged French…the rain passed and it cleared up and actually got partially sunny. There was quite a lot of gradual climbing, but a bit relentless and we found ourselves quite high above the river valley. And though not actually mountainous there was heather, and the start of pine forests. Very beautiful and lovely views over the valley (still the l’Isle).

    Ponchos on again when it had another light sprinkle, but didn’t turn into much and they came off when we stopped at a small bar a few kms before Mussidan and had coffee with the French couple. Fun. A tiny bar run by an old woman - I wanted chocolate- non - but made do with tea, and others had coffee (she did have little biscuits with chocolate as consolation).

    The walk after that sojourn was gorgeous…along the river - a walking and cycle path, next to the train track, and beyond that the road…all sort of hidden from each other..but going in parallel. Arrived in Mussidan about 3..30. We had been warned that our hosts could not pick us up before 5 (they collected us to take us to the guest house a few kms away), so we wandered the town, as usual fairly closed and quiet, though a sizeable town for round here, and found a salon de thé and relaxed there - me with a chocolate finally, and Amr with an oolong. It seemed to be the meeting place of the women of the town in the afternoon and we stayed there, reading a bit, and during that time it actually poured with rain - much harder than when we were walking! So lucky, when we left to call the people and wait near the church it was totally fine again. Now settled in a huge comfy room, with the best shower so far we think, and waiting for dinner which has been postponed till 8. Will be a good home cooked meal.

    Tomorrow we get another lift and walk to Ste Foy La Grande, on the Dordogne!

    P.S. have just re-read what I wrote and looked at the photos and realise I have not mentioned Amr’s entrée which features in the photo more than my perfect egg! He had sturgeon on mini pancakes with frothy creamy cheese…    Meer informatie

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  • Rosie MarzoukEscape to USA, France and UKReiziger
    Amr taking birthday calls

    At Ste-Foy-la-Grande for Amr’s birthday

    30 september 2021, Frankrijk ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    For Amr’s birthday it has been perfect weather, and probably the most breathtaking walk so far! We left by taxi at 9, and were driven to a small village with a church so that we could easily find our route signs. It was a couple of kms further than we were meant to be dropped, but much easier, and on the taxi route…it was very cool 7° but soon was manageable and never got too too hot..all the clouds from yesterday had gone, and there was a fog in the valley, but the taxi must have taken us uphill, though you don’t often realise it when driving, as we were well above the fog and in quite high country when we set off, well above the river level.

    At first we walked along small country roads, very pretty but not special…this lasted for quite a while and we were quite happily thinking that this was the sort of day - we started passing vineyards which was new, and saw lots more some way up on a hill in the distance, but as we walked on we came to the bottom of a long steep hill and realised we were going up there with the vineyards. After the slow plod uphill, quite steep and long, we found ourselves on top of the world with a breathtaking 360°view….and we stayed up there for most of the rest off the walk till we gradually descended down to Ste Foy - and steeply for the final leg - and found ourselves beside the Dordogne river, wide and fast flowing.

    We were coming from the north and the town on that side is Port Ste Foy, and crossing the bridge we come to Ste Foy La Grande. I think we may have changed departments too as the map has a line down the middle of the river with Dordogne on one side and Garonne on the other…these regions are a mystery, and don’t know where they start and end, and which are historic regions and which are legal administrative areas…there is Périgord, Aquitaine, Dordogne, and there was Burgundy and Berry. And we will be coming to Landes, Béarn and of course the Basque area. Who knows - I know there was a prefecture in Périgueux - but it is all beautiful, whatever the label.

    We are at the Hôtel de la Gare, so on arrival in the town we looked for signs to the gare and walked through the rather pleasant old and central part and out the other side and found the station, quite smart, and a really cosy and well kept hotel with a brasserie! We have over the years seen some hotels de la Gare that have been rather seedy, and this isn’t one, which is perfect for Amr’s birthday, as we have dinner here. So here’s hoping they make a special dinner for him!

    Will just add that dinner last night was very pleasant - good home cooked food - salad topped with a soft poached egg, chicken and mushroom with creamy sauce with rice, cheese and patisserie. There was another couple staying and having dinner with us who talked in rapid French and didn’t seem to realise that we couldn’t always keep up! But Amr was fantastic and caught the gist amazingly quickly and we found that he rode motorcycles and had had an epileptic episode and couldn’t drive and now was picking up a cycle with 3 wheels (which he was allowed to drive) and they live in Nice!! And he and Amr had a medical discussion about his epilepsy or non epilepsy….anyway, it was a fun meal…and breakfast.    Meer informatie

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  • Rosie MarzoukEscape to USA, France and UKReiziger
    Cold setting off
    Grape harvester in action1Old Benedictine abbey at St FermeArriving at CouturesOur barn and hostess

    At Coutures, surrounded by vineyards

    1 oktober 2021, Frankrijk ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Finishing yesterday, and Amr’s birthday dinner - it was lovely, but simple. They only do dinner for hotel guests, and we were the only guests…so we went down and there was a table set for us. Lovely man and woman run the hotel, and we had a lentil soup (like the other day when there was an additional soup course)…which was delicious, then a “panna cotta” of tomato with a basil cream sauce, then beef with potatoes and carrots, and finishing with a fancy patisserie plate…not gourmet, but very satisfying. And for breakfast we had the usual fare but with a bowl of coffee for the first time, and I think it was also the best coffee so far. In the morning there were quite a few people coming in for coffee or breakfast.

    So we set off in a taxi with our bags at 9 and were dropped at Caplong, which gave us 21 kms to walk to Coutures. We are now in a new area and the signage changed slightly but was very good and reliable. This part is called Entre-Deux-Mers, because it is between the Dordogne and Garonne rivers, neither of which we saw, but it is just all vineyards…we are in the Bordeaux wine growing area, and it was quite an amazing day. It took a little while of normal countryside walking before we found we were surrounded by vineyards which just continued in every direction most of the day. We noticed that some of the vines were grape free, and thought the harvest was over, then there were many laden with grapes, it ended about 50-50 that we saw, but to our delight we saw the huge grape picking machine in action in one vineyard. And we could hear others now that we knew what was happening. And there were many tractors with large carts along the roads coming to collect the grapes. Lots of activity. And we passed some huge wineries that looked like factories, and wine tankers on the road. Anyway, it was quite an exciting day, and fun to be watching some of the action. Interspersed now and then were fields of beheaded sunflower stalks - we even saw a man on a tractor shredding his sunflower stalks - the only time we saw non vineyard activity!

    And it was so beautiful…vineyards always look picturesque, and the ones that had been harvested stood in such neat rows as if they had had a hair cut…well they sort of had - no poking out branches! And we had some forest walks too, always gorgeous. The walk ended up being a bit longer than the 21 kms on our plan, as our pilgrim route followed the GR path where our map said it separated - but the good signage told us to do it, and I think it was probably a more picturesque way, but ended up being a few kms longer…so we walked 23 kms.

    We discovered this when we were at St Ferme about 5 kms from here, but had thought we only had 3 kms left…it was just fine, and not very different, but you get into a mentality that you have almost finished and you haven’t! But we popped into st Ferme to see the huge old Benedictine abbey, which seems to be used as the Mairie now - or the adjoining building.

    We easily found our BandB and again we have a character as hostess, who is now cooking dinner, and washing our clothes!! She was mowing the lawn when we arrived and was expecting us. We are the only guests tonight which is a good thing as her accommodation, which is lovely, is an upstairs barn with about 4 beds with screens dividing them, and a screened off bathroom. Perfect for us, but rather intimate with strangers! And there is a precipitous ladder leading up to it so we have just taken up what we need, and our bags remain downstairs, as they will be in no one’s way. Our hostess, who Amr says is called Rose, will be having dinner with us, and then she is leaving (she lives 15 kms away) and we will get our own breakfast, let a taxi pick up our bags at 8am and set off ourselves, as she will be in Bordeaux visiting her grandchildren! Perfect for us!    Meer informatie

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  • Rosie MarzoukEscape to USA, France and UKReiziger
    Dinner last night
    View from the heights looking back1

    La Réole, on the Garonne

    2 oktober 2021, Frankrijk ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    All went well this morning - we got our own breakfast, the taxi man collected the bags and we locked up and set off at about 9. Not as cold this morning, and the day has been quite moderate, up to 25° this afternoon.

    A very pleasant walk, and shorter than most - only 14 kms - though I must say I felt a bit tired, but maybe because it was a bit uphill and down dale over and over till we finally descended to the river. But it was beautiful - the thousands of vineyards have finished - leaving Coutures this morning we didn’t see a single one for quite a while, then we saw the odd one, plus corn, sorghum, sunflower stalks - back to the mixed farming. When we did finally reach the top before descending down to here, we had a breathtaking views looking back to where we’d been.

    Good to arrive at La Réole and find our chambres d’hôtes. The city is on the steep river bank and we went right down looking out for our place which we knew was in the old centre, but got to river level without sighting it, so stopped at a bar for a drink before heading back up with Amr’s Google maps guiding us. We have a lovely room, with our own terrasse (where our washing is offending no one) and a very helpful and friendly couple. It is Saturday night and we don’t have dinner provided here and asked for recommendations. They said a little place we had passed and also recommended booking, so Amr went out to do that, and popped into the tourist office for a map and the person there said yes, you must be the Australians walking that I heard about!! Not many escapees on the loose here!

    So we are all set, must gird our loins and have an explore as this is a small city, and has a bridge over the Garonne built by Eiffel…before the tower. He is good at bridges - we’ve seen his in Porto and Bilbao also. I have never heard of most of these small places where we stop, and sometimes they are barely a village (like Coutures, though I think it did have a Mairie) and sometimes quite a large town like today.    Meer informatie

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