The Camino Revisited 2018

This morning we left Burgos at 8 am, and have now started walking on the maseta- such a different world, and so beautiful. It was a 21.5 km walk along very easy gradient, though totally exposed ...the thunderstorm that was predicted for Burgos at 1 pm certainly hasn’t come here - it is cloudless and brilliant sunshine. We are in a small town Hornillos del Camino, in a very lovely casa rural, in an attic room - up to which the busy and delightful host, Samuel, carried both our bags! We have a sloping ceiling and a skylight...very cute, but I must be careful not to hit my head getting out of bed! We are both ecstatic because the wifi is GOOD!

Now, to report from yesterday afternoon...we went to have our kindle time in the park, and out of the blue raindrops fell...we ignored at first, but it did become serious for about 15 minutes, so we took shelter in a delightful bar, where we had a glass of Rioja in Paul approved glasses!! Then, knowing the next day we started walking again, we went for dinner at 7 pm, the earliest available time! Not a spectacular meal, but we were sitting next to an English couple, who had interesting accents - he was Geordie and she was from Yorkshire....they have been living in Spain for the last 7 years, but we were amazed that they didn’t seem to have the basic elements of Spanish...asked for “vin rouge” (maybe thought it was “European”) or just spoke to the waiter in English...and difficulty explaining what size beer he wanted!! I think walking the Camino was a foreign concept to them! Pleasant enough otherwise!

So we left beautiful Burgos, and not an unpleasant walk out of the city in the westerly direction, the industrial area seems to be mainly in the east, past the university and out into the countryside again, which gradually turned into the open undulating spaces of the Maseta. It was pretty relentlessly sunny, with occasional breeze, but we did find an oasis to have lunch - a group of shady trees where there is a well from which you can pump up very cold water....just what you need at that point. With tables and seats. Perfect. We had bought more cheese at Burgos and had apples and dates still.

So we had strength for the last 5 kms or so to Hornillos del Camino. We had a very gentle rise, and saw it down the hill several kms away. Will try to add photos as this wifi may cope! Tomorrow another 20 kms to Castrojeriz.もっと詳しく

Today was short - 16.5 kms! But it was quite hard work for the last 10 kms or so as it was totally exposed, and no villages between here and Carrión. It was completely flat, and amazingly not boring scenery (though I think some people may not have agreed!) with the usual dead sunflowers, stubble and surprisingly a few fields of corn! Haven’t seen that lately. And rows of trees breaking the monotony.

So we left our luxury hotel at 8.50, late for us, but breakfast wasn’t till 8. It is such a beautiful place- Monasterio de San Zoilo - was once a Benedictine monastery, hence the cloister outlook from our room, and yes Liv, we actually had a double bed rather than 2 put together. The risk with a double bed is sometimes that there is only one long pillow for the 2 or you, but this perfect place not only had a pillow each, but 3 pillows each!!

So we set off, with plenty of water for this day in the sun, and got here by 12.40....at the beginning we did have a fair bit of shade, with trees alongside the track, but it was just the end part that was extremely bright and hot. On arrival we sat immediately and had a beer before checking in, and then as we hadn’t eaten our lunch yet, we shared a plate of freshly made seafood paella!! Yum! This was all with the many people we now who are in step with us - ie stopping at the same towns...

Calzadilla de la Cueza is a tiny place, 5 years ago it didn’t appear at all on Google maps, but my photos actually say that is where we are...We had a drink here with Michael and Claire but they had to walk another 9 kms to another town...poor things...by then we were so relaxed knowing we were “home”...and it may be the last time we encounter them as we are a bit out of sync from now on...they will already be in León when we walk in, but it is a big place (compared to these villages). But we have a very comfortable and convivial group of peregrino friends here at the moment, and will be in sync with them for a while at least.

Tomorrow we walk into Sahagún, past the place where we are photographed on Google maps!もっと詳しく