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The Camino Revisited 2018
  • Rosie Marzouk
  • Rosie Marzouk

The Camino Revisited 2018

We are off to walk the Camino in Spain again, this time starting in Pamplona and finishing in Finisterre, 42 days of walking, with some rest days interspersed. Week first in San Diego visiting Michael’s family, and 6 days in San Francisco on return. Läs mer
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  • Resans start
    23 augusti 2018
    Rosie MarzoukThe Camino Revisited 2018Resenär

    Setting off today

    23 augusti 2018, Australien 🌙 7 °C

    We are in the early ferry, heading for the airport... well, Circular Quay, then the train...very excited! I think I have started this new trip on the blog, and will send link to all who want when I finish today.

    We are so excited about this redoing the Camino - I think it will be a different experience in many ways, though much of it the same path...but we now know it and will not need to rush to find our destination, but can explore a little more en route, smell more roses, and feel calm that we can achieve this. And there are some real differences - not all the hotels we stay at are the same ones (the bedbug place is not on the list!!), and a couple of times we stay in different towns, and of course the 5 days walking to the Coast after Santiago will be completely new.

    So today we fly to Los Angeles and take the train down to San Diego and visit Michael, Lisi, Camille and James. They are just back from a big trip themselves, and immediately the kids are back to school this week, so we may all be a bit fuzzy together at first! This will be good as it is a year since we saw them in Fiji. Then on August we fly to Madrid, and start the Spanish adventure.    Läs mer

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  • Rosie MarzoukThe Camino Revisited 2018Resenär
    Now james as well

    Settling into La Jolla

    23 augusti 2018, Förenta staterna ☀️ 26 °C

    Thank you people for answering my email link and sending messages! I wasn’t sure that I would write again just yet, but am inspired to communicate, even though feeling quite jet lagged for once. The problem was that the flight left early morning Sydney time, so we flew all day and landed at LAX at 11.30 pm Sydney time, but 6.30 am California time...so we really didn’t get a proper sleep on the plane, but are a bit wiped out now...we’ll cope. Also, I have to put in one funny (now) thing...I think it’s funny, but it was frustrating then, and Amr probably doesn’t think it’s funny at all...but when we checked into the flight yesterday Amr had a problem (he’d had the problem trying to checkin online too)...but it turned out that his ESTA visa waiver had expired...he hadn’t checked, and was SURE it was still valid....so it can be done at the airport thank goodness, and all was well...just a hassle! Just so glad it wasn’t me that was the flake!

    Anyway, here we are. We got the bus from airport to Union Station, and got an Amtrak train down to Solana Beach where Lisi picks us up, but poor thing she was delayed by an accident on the I-5 ....caused total stoppage of the freeway....at first we thought it was a Panamanian time situation, but no....a real situation! Happy that Nico their sweet but fiercely noisy and protective dog has again remembered us, sniffed and was totally docile on our arrival, and is now sitting beside me on a chair just like the old days.

    So we have unpacked a bit, Lisi had to rush to the school for some event, and will reappear with James at about 3.30, Cami will be at tennis till later, Michael is in Carlsbad till tomorrow for a sales meeting week, and Amr has gone for a walk down to the town to have a haircut at his favourite Vietnamese barber here, and to have a swim!! I think that is very heroic...I am happy just keeping awake and sitting writing this with Nico.

    This is a very mundane entry, and may not write every day while here, but you never know....but just recording our arrival. While at the station we bought the return tickets back to LA for next Thursday when we fly out to Madrid!! Will take a photo of Nico as he looks very cute and clean and groomed (Wednesday is his day!), but no one else here to take photos of. This will come.    Läs mer

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  • Rosie MarzoukThe Camino Revisited 2018Resenär

    First Full Day

    24 augusti 2018, Förenta staterna ⛅ 24 °C

    After having rolling eyes and fighting sleep all day yesterday, went to bed around 10 pm. Lisi had prepared dinner the day before which was lovely, Michael was still at the meeting, Cami and James had appeared but were deep into homework etc...I actually had a good sleep, didn’t even wake when apparently a smoke alarm upstairs in Cami’s old bedroom went off with great noise....Amr went up and saved the day by pressing the off button with James’ toothbrush (only way he could reach up to it!) but thank god I was oblivious...

    Kids had left for school by the time I got up, and Amr was having coffee and breakfast. He hurt his wrist yesterday slipping on some deceptively slimy road...has bought a wrist brace at the pharmacy to immobilise it...luckily not his stick -holding hand, nor his walking legs! So soon Amr left to have his haircut, which was successful this time, and had his annual chat with him. Lisi had to do some meeting at the school, so all peaceful. Then they all returned, and Michael too!! Finally we see him! His work was finished and he had the afternoon to be with us...excellent, so we all 4 went down to a favourite watering hole and had a drink, mini meal (we’d already had a sandwich for lunch) and a lovely relaxing proper catch up. Now back and kids about to arrive. M and L out tonight - already had tickets from long ago for Phantom, and our friends, their neighbours, Anita and Brian are coming over for dinner and games. All good.    Läs mer

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  • Rosie MarzoukThe Camino Revisited 2018Resenär

    Saturday in La Jolla

    26 augusti 2018, Förenta staterna ⛅ 22 °C

    It’s now Sunday morning, but will write up Saturday - we had a very good day. This household wakes at about noon on weekends, but of course Amr and I woke earlier, and set off at about 9 for our walks...he down to the pool at the high school where he has a swim, and I headed up for my usual walk to Mt Soledad. Very glad we went early as already it was hot and humid - had forgotten how humid La Jolla can be....then on arrival back, everyone had emerged, and I took Nico for his morning walk - our tradition!

    So we all relaxed quietly for a while. The day plans were a party at the Beach Club for the son of friends who was leaving to go to boarding school. We were invited, as we knew them and in fact we visited with them in Sydney and took them to Tapa Vino! It turned out that Moo and Lisi couldn’t go as they had double booked accidentally and were committed to a special fundraising event, but we went with Cami and James and had a great rime.

    Lisi had to go to the mall to get a present for the party that afternoon, so Cami and Amr took up the mall opportunity and Michael and I stayed home and had a good bonding session....M and L dropped us at the Beach Club on the way to their event, and collected us after...worked well. The party was actually lots of fun...we knew quite a few people, and it wasn’t huge - probably about 20 or less adults, and the kids (mostly teenagers now)....and the beach is always a beautiful spot for a party. Amr only got one photo of James before it got too dark, and when we got home at about 11, he and Michael had a bonding cigar and i caught that moment. Soon I will get some more family photos....    Läs mer

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  • Rosie MarzoukThe Camino Revisited 2018Resenär

    Cruising in San Diego

    27 augusti 2018, Förenta staterna ☀️ 25 °C

    Another catchup of what is happening here. I think I last wrote yesterday morning - now Monday afternoon. I haven’t mentioned that on Saturday Michael and Lisi found that 2 of their cars were out of action!! M went to drive his Ferrari for the first time since being away...about 4 weeks, and it was dead. Actually the man is here now and is charging the battery, think that is all it needs, but of course being so dead the key would not unlock anything so it was hard to get to it! A first world problem. Then the car washer found that there was a nail in a tire of the Range Rover! So the Audi was IT for the weekend...but today M drove the Audi to work, and Lisi has used the Range Rover, which seems so far to be coping with its nail and not losing air, for essential driving - school pickup etc...it is booked in for Thursday I think!

    So yesterday was a relaxed time after walking....very pleasant...and then last night Michael took us to a lovely restaurant- in San Diego! In Little Italy. We realised that in all the years we have come here, we haven’t actually eaten out in the city itself...often in La Jolla and nearby. So that was fun and different, and an absolutely gorgeous meal, and of course amazing wines. Kids now old enough to stay home alone...

    Today we walked - have to keep in practice - Amr went via the pool as usual, and I did a circuit aimed to meet together, and with Lisi, at the cinema in LJ, and we watched Papillon. Excellent...and at 11 am on a Monday we were the only people in the cinema, sitting in super comfy chairs!! Then after we went to a taco joint and had delicious lunch...that will be my meal for the day. Both M and L are out tonight, so we will have toast or leftovers....perfect. Will put a few photos, and hope I haven’t missed anything vital!    Läs mer

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  • Rosie MarzoukThe Camino Revisited 2018Resenär
    Beach view at Del MarWith Anita and BrianDinner at Bistro du Marché

    Last Entry from San Diego

    29 augusti 2018, Förenta staterna ☀️ 27 °C

    This will be the last posting from La Jolla. It is Wednesday afternoon, and tomorrow morning we are picked up at 7.30 am (by the famous Andrew) to be driven to Solana Beach station, to get the train to Los Angeles, then the bus to LAX and our flight to Madrid!!! We have already got emails from Lufthansa to check in on line, so it is becoming a reality!

    I last wrote on Monday after our amazing dinner on Sunday evening. Tuesday - yesterday - after the morning walking etc, we had a very nice lunch with Anita and Brian, who took us to a restaurant at Del Mar, lovely coastal town between here and Solana Beach. Had light and delicious crab cakes, as last night we went again out for a great dinner with Michael and Lisi - at Bistro du Marché in La Jolla - yum French food. So nice. Kids did not come as homework time was needed - this term Cami does tennis 4 afternoons - so that is late for starting homework, of which there seems to be a lot. So we had another really good time with M and L...this has been a very good week for us all getting together in a relaxed state - or relaxed for us - Michael has work things, and Lisi does her usual chauffeuring of Cami and James, but this is their normal life.

    So this morning after kid drop off at school, Lisi took Nico to his groomers and the car to the car place to see about the nail in the tire, and Amr went for his usual walk and swim. I had earlier walked Nico (our last walk - Nico is very fond of his granny!), then walked down to the village in time to meet Amr, Lisi and Peter Farrell who had flown in from Houston for a dinner tonight! He goes back tomorrow.....anyway, the 4 of us had a great Mexican lunch and a nice chat.

    Then Amr and I went to see another movie!! This time Operation Finale - about the capture of Eichmann in Argentina- very well done, with Ben Kingsley...excellent...then we walked up back home in the hot sun..good walking practice....and now cooling off, doing our last proper wash of all our clothes. The weather app is frightening me with predicted temperatures in Madrid and Pamplona of over 30° for the next week or so...but when I think of it, the main heat is in the later afternoon when we have finished walking, and the mornings when we start are much more moderate. It is probably not unlike last time we did it, as it is almost exactly the same dates, but then we just didn’t look the weather up on the iPad! So here’s hoping. Next post will be from Madrid!    Läs mer

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  • Rosie MarzoukThe Camino Revisited 2018Resenär
    Our room
    Our roomYummy food!Plaza MayorPuerta del Sol

    Now in Madrid

    31 augusti 2018, Spanien 🌙 30 °C

    We had a good journey, even though it took just over 24 hours to get from La Jolla to our hotel in Madrid. It’s 9 pm Friday here, and we are about to go to bed soon, but we’ve done very well I think. The flights were excellent, as economy flights go - I really like Lufthansa- and we slept for about 5 hours which was quite good. Managed to navigate to our new gate in Frankfurt airport, and arrived in Madrid about 3.45, then negotiated the Metro from the airport to our hotel. We stayed here last time, very nice, very central, air conditioning works - all good.

    We met Omnia who is here for the weekend at about 6.30 and we set off for a walk and to find first an orange juice place (somehow they taste extra amazing here!) and then we wandered to the Plaza Mayor and had a drink and 3 tapas, or raciones....delicious, and all we needed. With our weird time change we had a late breakfast, and a late lunch. On the 2 hour flight from Frankfurt to Madrid Lufthansa served a meal, alcohol...and that’s just an intra Europe journey! So we walked Omnia back to her hotel, just beyond Santa Ana, along the beautiful narrow streets, with their beautiful buildings. Had our first little taste of the city, and will try and jump into this time zone tonight. Buenas noches.    Läs mer

  • Rosie MarzoukThe Camino Revisited 2018Resenär
    1Plaza Santa Ana
    1Plaza Santa AnaAmr with churrosVino, jamon y quesoRoyal Palace background

    A Lovely (hot) Madrid Day

    1 september 2018, Spanien ⛅ 27 °C

    We both had quite a reasonable sleep last night...I took a pill as by actual bedtime I felt quite perky (as you do with a 9 hour time change) and Amr had a phenergan as he is still coughing and it seems to help, and also induces sleepiness. So we set off, had our favourite breakfast - me a fresh OJ, pastry and coffee, he the OJ, coffee and churros. We go to a nearby special churros cafe, where you see them being made freshly, and they are so fresh they are too hot to eat at first....yum for Amr, I just have a nibble!

    I was too spaced last night to comment on the ambience of Madrid. We haven’t been here before quite as into summer (though it is September 1 today, and I hope it settles into autumn soon!)...and it is HOT. The app said it would reach 35° today, and it probably did. It was 33° when we were having dinner around 8.30pm! But it is dry heat, and almost bearable in the shade, if you are not exerting yourself! But apart from the heat, there is still a summer vibe - people relaxed everywhere, not looking dressed to kill, just having fun. Today is Saturday, so probably even more relaxed. Anyway, it is a Madrid we haven’t seen before. And it also is lovely to feel familiar with the central maze of streets...the buildings are so beautiful...only rarely is there a 50s monstrosity!

    Anyway we met Omnia at 10 having breakfasted, and solved the heat by going to the Prado. (Actually in the morning the temperature is quite moderate, only hot by mid to late afternoon)....So we had a lovely time there, finding the works of Goya, Velasquez, El Greco and all the wonderful things....they said Caravaggio but we found only one small one...likewise Rembrandt!!! But who can complain about the Prado!!

    After that we had a little break, and regrouped at 4.30 and Amr introduced Omnia to his churroseria as she hadn’t experienced them - another pleasant air-conditioned break. Then we had a wander, in the heat but keeping in the shade as much as possible, down the Gran Via, to the Jardines de Sabatini and past the Royal Palace where we may (Amr and I) go tomorrow afternoon for a visit inside. Omnia leaves about midday to get a plane back home, and she has already “done” the Palace.

    By this time it was almost ok for dinner time! Restaurants don’t serve dinner before 8 pm, but tapas is all day....it was about 7.30 and we knew a place in Plaza Angel (diagonally adjacent to Plaza Santa Ana) where we wanted to go. Omnia said she didn’t want to come to Spain and not have paella, and we knew it was on their list. It was a perfect place, and a perfect time. We could people watch the constant parade, but not excessively crowded, the sun was finally thinking of setting (Spain is on main European time, but should really geographically be with the UK...consequently the sun rises later and sets later here). So we sat and drank lots trying to rehydrate, and had our favourite tapas of pimientos padron, baby squid a la plancha, and calamari, while waiting for the seafood paella....yum...

    Now back in our room, and hoping our bodies know it is nighttime! (I may take half a pill to make sure!).    Läs mer

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  • Rosie MarzoukThe Camino Revisited 2018Resenär
    Tall column, light cathedralLovely stained glass

    Hot Sunday, and last day in Madrid

    2 september 2018, Spanien ⛅ 28 °C

    Again we had a reasonable sleep, woke and breakfasted....in the morning at 8.30am it is almost a pleasant temperature....but we still feel a bit fuzzy in the head during the day, so annoying...I think tomorrow it will be over. The intense heat doesn’t help of course, but we dealt with that quite well today. We met Omnia at 9.45 and went to the Thyssen museum, which is also nearby. We had visited it last time in Madrid, really good..large building, but easy to find your way - the numbers of the rooms actually follow on, and a huge range of art - from madonnas and bambini to modern, and good examples. The also was a special exhibition of Monet and Boudin. Excellent, and as always with special exhibits you see works from all over the world that you have never seen, and would never have seen. Have to confess that I don’t remember hearing of or seeing the works of Eugene Boudin, but he was 15 years older than Monet and a sort of mentor...they influenced each other, but he largely got Monet going...the comparison was very interesting. So all that kept us cool for the morning. Around 12 we went to the cafe and had a light lunch and then Omnia had to hop on the airport bus which stopped nearby to catch a plane back to the UK. So after saying our goodbyes we continued on in the cool and explored the floors we had not yet seen.

    Finally, around 3 pm we ventured out and had a beer at a basque cafe we had noticed in the same plaza where we had dinner last night. It was a trial run for tonight and we liked what we saw and indeed did come back there for dinner today. But first we walked back and had a short break in the a/c and wifi of our room. While there we booked online tickets to visit the Royal Palace...so much better than standing in the heat in a queue - Omnia had recommended this and it worked. We sailed past the queue - not a long line, but even 10 minutes in the heat would be unpleasant- and had the tickets zapped on my phone! The palace is quite near our hotel, just behind the opera where we are.

    So it was a good visit, with all the splendour of Royal palaces, and the armour, glassware and porcelain, sumptuous rooms, gala banquet table set for 50....lots of fun. Couldn’t take photos in the special rooms. We called into the cathedral that is beside the palace and which was open...I’ll have to read up about it, but it is quite modern and light in comparison with the cathedrals we know are coming on the Camino. Lovely but modern looking stained glass, though enormously tall column and arches.

    Then we went straight back to our chosen place to eat and drink - Golfo de Bizkaia. Drank copious fizzy water and wind and the best food....my favourite baby squid grilled being my highlight. Too tired to add more detail. I think it is cooling a little tomorrow and anyway I think Pamplona is a little cooler than here. The max today was about 35° supposedly which is high, but not super high, but sure feels hot when you are out in it.

    Tomorrow we pack up and get the train at 11.30, arrive Pamplona about 2.30...a new adventure and the beginning of the Camino! A day to see Pamplona and we walk on Wednesday!    Läs mer

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  • Rosie MarzoukThe Camino Revisited 2018Resenär
    Our room
    Our roomPlaza del Castillo at sunsetWe found the camino!The wonderful saladView towards Pyrenees

    En route to Pamplona

    3 september 2018, Spanien ☀️ 23 °C

    We are in the train on the way to Pamplona. A 3 hour journey in a TGV equivalent, very smooth. So our adventure is sort of starting now. I think the entries so far have been pretty mundane..partly from jet lag and heat. We really enjoy Madrid, and have done our dose of culture there - and also the best way to escape the heat of the day. Despite all, our apps tell us that we walked quite a lot each day - 13 kms yesterday !! And there can’t be all that many kms in the galleries! We will return to our hostal in Madrid at the end of October for the last 4 days before we fly back to the US. Our plans for those days are day trips to Toledo and Segovia, but using Madrid as a base.

    I feel obsessed with the weather and unfortunately checked Pamplona for the next few days - it is a little cooler, but on Wednesday, the day we set off walking, there is 100% chance of heavy rain, and thunderstorms !!! No point agonising, but looks like we start off wet!

    Meanwhile we are heading north on the train, passing through the countryside, seeing fields of corn, sunflowers, small towns and craggy rocky hills. Very peaceful. We are staying at the same hotel in Pamplona as we did 5 years ago. Very nice, and just off the Plaza de Castillo. Will continue when we get there.

    ....we arrived just before 3 pm and are in heaven! Everything feels just right. Arrived at the station which we had never seen before as we had walked in and out of this town...got a bus and helpful people (and the bus driver) showed us where to get off for the Plaza del Castillo- and it all fell into place...we easily found the hotel, and remembered all the quirks - in fact I think we have the same room, except maybe on a different floor. This place has a one ⭐️ Michelin restaurant....(don’t think it had the star 5 years ago, but we did eat there one night), but the prices are ridiculously high, and we think we will enjoy the many other eateries which all seem to have a consistently high standard.

    After unpacking when we got to the room, we had a great walk, discovering areas we hadn’t noticed before and just wandering. We walked in last time and didn’t look back - this afternoon we walked around the walls of the old city and had a wonderful view back to the Pyrenees, across the river and the outer areas of the city. Glad we are not walking across them this time! Anyway we had a fun afternoon, came back and did washing and showering, and set out fashionably late enough to eat...Amr amazingly found the place we remembered and loved last time and we had a great meal there - the highlight being one of the magnificent salads they do here, plus some tapas. Tomorrow we will do more exploring, but no culture and lots of downtime. Also have to add that it is very pleasant temperature here!! A change from complaining. It was hottish but with a breeze in the afternoon, and coming back from dinner I almost felt COOL, something we haven’t experienced for days! From now on - for the next 48 days or so - our bags will be moved for us, our hotels organised...all is good.    Läs mer

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  • Rosie MarzoukThe Camino Revisited 2018Resenär
    Citadel gate
    Citadel gate1Amr playing bull fights!

    Peaceful day in Pamplona

    4 september 2018, Spanien ⛅ 28 °C

    We got up late today - I couldn’t get to sleep for ages last night, was so excited....seems silly, but we are suddenly in the world of Camino and you see walkers, and people say “buen Camino” ...and it IS exciting!. Anyway, in this lovely hotel we had a lovely breakfast which has kept us going all day. Again a perfect temperature- such a relief, and no sign of the predicted thunderstorms for tomorrow....but we are prepared for anything - it will just be a blessing if we don’t get saturated!

    So we have had vey pleasant wandering...we walked to the citadel which is now a beautiful park surrounded by the old walls, moats and bridges - had a peaceful kindle time on a seat there. Then we went to the bull ring which is very close to our hotel...we found we could have a tour inside (which we hadn’t done) with an audio guide so we did and it was fun and interesting. I can’t really get into it, but the running of the bulls is such a huge festival here, and I can enjoy the excitement by watching the videos and seeing all the paraphernalia! The Plaza de Toros is immense - can hold about 19,000 people (I think it was in fact 19,720!). I forgot to say, that before the citadel we also went to the cathedral and stamped our Camino passport. It is a lovely building, with fabulous cloisters which fortunately we saw in all their glory last time, as now they are surrounded by scaffolding.

    Now it is 5 o’clock and we are having a break before setting out to eat. I am writing up the day now, which i will do each day from now on - in the afternoon when we finish walking rather than just before bed...we plan to eat tonight at an art nouveau cafe on the square...Amr’s favourite decor, and everywhere prices are similar and food good. Tomorrow it all starts....    Läs mer

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  • Rosie MarzoukThe Camino Revisited 2018Resenär

    Hurray!! First day done and wonderful!

    5 september 2018, Spanien 🌧 22 °C

    This has been a wonderful day! We have walked 24.3 kms to Puente la Reina and feel great....that is lying a little, feet and bones a little weary, but nothing that won’t be fixed by a good night’s rest. And, after all that gloom and doom weather forecasting, we had good weather. It did rain lightly as we left, and we wore our ponchos for about an hour. Then we felt it was safe to take them off, and it even got sunny, and high cloud - perfect walking conditions.

    It is a wonderful feeling, walking out of Pamplona, through the rolling countryside and little towns. There was one high uphill - the Alto de Perdon - where there are the metal figures of pilgrims, and a vast panorama. We remembered that, and last time in fact it was cold and windy, but it was sunny and lovely today, quite a party atmosphere as many people stopped for a break...that was about 10 kms before Puente la Reina, but we knew we had done the highest climb. In fact coming down on loose stones was harder!!

    We passed some sunflower fields, but they are not golden and beautiful as we remember- already they are drooping and getting black - I guess the hot weather has made them “ripen” earlier, as we are only 2 days later than we were last time in September 2013.

    So we had a beer even before showering, but now clean and done our washing and enjoying this hotel which we also stayed in last time. Now about to set off and explore this little town. We didn’t last time, as it poured with rain just after we arrived, and we stayed in and didn’t see anything, except in the morning walking out. Will check out the old bridge which was built by the queen (Isabella I think) so that pilgrims didn’t drown crossing the river! Hence the town’s name.

    I have some lovely photos and I think I will make an extra footprint later so that I can add more than the 6 allowed. The first one is an art shot that Amr took as we were setting off down the stairs at our hotel this morning - in the mirror! When we got down and at the door we had to put on ponchos as we discovered it was raining! ....The wifi seems to be weak, so will take off a few photos as that’s usually why it has trouble... this is so frustrating- the wifi here is extremely weak..will send emails (slowly), and will do Words with Friends, but will NOT upload this blog, so may have to wait until tomorrow when maybe will have more success. This hotel is very busy, it is a hostel and a hotel, so there are many people using the wifi..maybe when they go to bed it will get better, but I may also be asleep by then...still not downloading, will take off photos and see if that helps...    Läs mer

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  • Rosie MarzoukThe Camino Revisited 2018Resenär

    Today's walk to Estella

    6 september 2018, Spanien ⛅ 21 °C

    We are now in the bar at our hotel having washed etc and just don’t want to leave, even to explore this rather lovely town. We did walk more than a kilometre through it to get to the hotel (off the Camino) as it is right out the other end. So we saw the huge old churches and squares and narrow streets. The town is surrounded by hills and has quite a colourful history of fending off invaders, and I think was the seat of the kings of Navarra. We are still in Navarra which is basque (until we get to Logroño which is in the Rioja) and signs are bilingual with the rather weird Basque versions before the Spanish.

    Anyway, we set off today at about 8.30 and for some reason thought it would be an easier walk than yesterday...about 20 kms or so...well, as usual it was more - Amr’s Apple Watch said 26!! And the equivalent of climbing 25 flights of stairs!! So you can believe we are a little weary now. Walking out of Puente la Reina we crossed the famous XII century bridge, and then had a lovely even walk until we saw a huge rock face and were glad we didn’t have to climb that...but we did, or the equivalent...the path went relentlessly uphill for a LONG time. We did then have a beautiful walk along the plateau, with a few more little ups now and then, and finally arrived here. Beautiful weather - cool in the morning, but hot in the afternoon, with a breeze. In the last stretch we saw an enormous bird in a field. In the distance I thought it was farming equipment, till we saw that it was moving and flapping wings a little. Amr thinks it may have been a condor, but whatever it was it was huge. Won’t put a photo as it doesn’t show properly how huge it was!

    Have not seen any sunflowers at all today, but some vineyards and olive trees, plus many fields of stubble. And we saw a large crop of asparagus!! This time we recognise it - last time the feathery leaves confused me...thought it may be fennel, but didn’t smell right.

    Anyway, it is wonderful fun, and we are recovering from the tiredness and aching bones...we even had a beer in the Plaza de Fueros on our way to the hotel, as we suspected we wouldn’t want to venture out again. Not as many walkers here as last night - a smaller hotel - so the wifi is much stronger. Here’s hoping this will upload fine, and will put some photos.    Läs mer

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  • Rosie MarzoukThe Camino Revisited 2018Resenär
    1
    1

    More from Estella

    6 september 2018, Spanien ⛅ 21 °C

    Am so happy with the wifi after yesterday’s fiasco, that will add a few more from today. We are waiting till 7.30 for dinner...it doesn’t get dark till quite late, 9 or later, so it feels early. And the sun doesn’t rise till late - can’t remember exactly, but about 8 am or so, so we get up almost in the dark, to be ready in the morning. And Amr wants me to put a photo of the big bird!Läs mer

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  • Rosie MarzoukThe Camino Revisited 2018Resenär
    1Wine fountain
    1Wine fountainAsparagus plantation

    Beautiful Walk to Los Arcos

    7 september 2018, Spanien ⛅ 24 °C

    Today was great...it was still 24 kms, but it was undulating with gradual inclines, and through spectacular countryside. I have to say that I am relieved, as yesterday when we arrived at the hotel I was so hot and tired, I wondered if this was going to be fun after all. But today we set off with a different mindset - determined not to push too hard - we didn’t think we had been pushing hard - but today we almost sauntered! And also we stopped for a proper lunch - bacon and cheese bocadillo, apple - I don’t think we ate enough yesterday, just picked on a sesame bar....anyway, we are very happy and feel excellent.

    This is quite a mountainous area, there are mountains in the distance in every direction, and so many beautiful little hill towns. I am sorry there no sunflowers now, but there is still a spectacular panorama in every direction. More and more vineyards, with grapes ripening and looking heavy, olive groves, and we saw several fields of asparagus.

    This morning, soon after leaving Estella we passed the Fuente de Vino - the wine fountain for pilgrims...a monastery has a tap in the wall where anyone can get wine - there is also a spigot of water beside it! So even though it was only about 9 am we lined up and had a taste (handy that you can then fill up the bottle with water again). We didn’t do this last time...too intent on reaching the destination, and the morning not exactly a wine drinking time! But we got into the spirit of it today, and it was very drinkable wine! There is a webcam there that shows it all....

    Anyway, here we are in Los Arcos at a very nice hotel (different from last time) and we have a great room on a corner, looking over a square and trees, and close to everything - this is a very small town. And it is so good that dinners are included...we don’t have to think about where to go, and it is like going to a restaurant each night - the food is so good, many choices, and beautifully presented. And we are always so hungry!!    Läs mer

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  • Rosie MarzoukThe Camino Revisited 2018Resenär

    Another great day - Saturday in Viana

    8 september 2018, Spanien ☀️ 27 °C

    Today was meant to be less than 20 kms but of course it ended up being almost 22, but it was good as we weren’t doing the extra 10 kms into Logroño! We split the distance here last time, and tomorrow we saunter into Logroño - even if it ends up being 12km who cares! We did work hard though today. As usual it sounded fairly easy, with one serious climb, and it did start with beautifully even terrain through the still beautiful countryside. But then we did climb up and down to rivers, or river beds, past the usual hill towns, past olive groves and vineyards, and arrived here at about 2 o’clock.

    We left Los Arcos at 8 am, having first stopped for fresh OJ in the square. The sun rises at 7.45 so the square was so different at sunrise than in the afternoon when we arrived - then full of tables and umbrellas and a buzz of walkers mostly relaxing after the trek and sheltering from the very bright sun. (This is the famous square where 5 years ago Amr bandaged the leg of the Rheinmaiden!!). It is blissfully cool in the early morning, about 13°, but as the sun gets higher it does get quite hot...my southern arm and leg (the left as we are heading west) are getting quite sunburnt...

    So we had a good day’s walk - passing and repassing familiar people who are in the same rhythm as us. This keeps changing as people stay at different places, but sometimes the same people are around for a few days. And a babble of many languages - all good, great camaraderie, but as we walk people thin out as everyone goes at a different pace.

    Viana is a lovely small town, and we have wonderful memories of the superb hotel we stayed in before (and the dinner!) which we are again at. My brain had totally forgotten the outskirts with modern apartment buildings, and the outer streets we had to walk through to get to the old centre, which is much as it was in the Middle Ages. Our hotel is in the one main street through the centre, and as we approached what a surprise! Something was afoot...there were explosions, which we later realized were fireworks, but we could hardly walk along the street - crazy crowds - we did realize it was Saturday, but this was something more than a normal weekend...Many people and their children wearing white shirts with red handkerchiefs round their necks like what you see in Pamplona for the running of the bulls...and this is what it is, Viana’s own festival - today is the day before celebrations- the actual running is thankfully tomorrow afternoon after we will have left (I think Amr is a little disappointed, but I am happy)! Actually, we would have a perfect view from our hotel window...As we arrived there was a parade, with huge effigies and a band, which was why we found we were going against the tide. Already along the street there are barriers up to protect windows etc from the bulls, except the many cafes and restaurants which will be open till tomorrow but the metal barriers are there ready to be put into place. The hotel tells us that tonight there are festivities and music that starts at 10.30 pm!! So it promises to be a noisy night, but what a fun weekend to be passing through! Dinner isn’t till 8.30 tonight either, so we will head out now and have some tapas to tide us over.

    Just tried to publish but it wouldn’t upload...I thought it was strong WiFi but will take off all the photos and do them separately...I think they are really good, but will see if the words will go...    Läs mer

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  • Rosie MarzoukThe Camino Revisited 2018Resenär
    Street ready for the bulls!
    Street ready for the bulls!Leaving VianaOur Logroño room1

    Sunday in Logroño

    9 september 2018, Spanien ⛅ 25 °C

    Totally relaxed! It was a very easy - no major gradients at all - walk of just under 10 km from Viana to Logroño. We still left early in the cool morning air - there had been thunderstorms in the evening and night, even though we walked yesterday under a cloudless sky. And they predict more for later today. The festivities in Viana did continue on into the night as warned! Woke at 3.30 and heard music and revelry, but at 7 am the street cleaning truck was doing its thing and when we left the street was spotless, and ready for the bulls!

    So we have left Navarra and the Basque lands now. Arrived in Logroño at about 11 am but the room was ready, and the bags arrived soon after, so we were all set. We are here for 2 nights in this very good hotel, right on the edge of the old centre, and right on the Camino. After changing from our barely sweaty clothes, we went on a reconnoiter, all fairly familiar from 5 years ago, and a really lovely town. We of course first checked out where the laundromat was, and it’s hours!! Amr was happy, and is there now doing the washing with his kindle. But first after checking, we went into the main centre and found a crazy crowd - again...! Weekends! We discovered there was a Rioja agricultural and wine expo, and the main square was packed. Plus there was a mass just starting in the adjacent cathedral adding to the chaos. Anyway, it was fun, and we had a beer and some tapas for lunch, and after that I found I could better cope with the madding crowds...which were finally starting to thin out.

    So all good..I am having downtime in the room (wifi seems excellent!) and Amr is having downtime at the laundromat! Tomorrow will be a relax day, and the next 2 walking days (Tuesday and Wednesday) are also both under 20 km, as a longer walk has been split into 2 shorter sections...perfect. Tonight there is Masterchef España on TV!!!    Läs mer

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  • Rosie MarzoukThe Camino Revisited 2018Resenär
    Catedral S. Maria de la RedondaBeautiful facade of San BartoloméThe perfect dishes!

    Lazy Monday in Logroño

    10 september 2018, Spanien ☀️ 26 °C

    A beautiful lazy day. Woke early as were were asleep by 10.30, but leisurely went to breakfast- very large selection in this good hotel....we know that many of the smaller places will just be bread and coffee, so we enjoy it while we can.

    We had a walk along the river, just to keep from being totally immobile, and it was cool when we left - I almost wished I had a jacket except it was meant to get warmer. It was cloudy bright, but has now become clear blue sky, and probably hot in the sun, and very pleasant. Finally made our way to a cafe/bar we had spied yesterday, but was shut in the evening when we planned to go. Open now, and it was worth the wait! We had spotted chipperones a la plancha on its list, which is my very favourite thing - baby calamari on the grill - and not all places do it. Also there was octopus a la plancha with their special home made salsa (mayonnaise-like), which was also amazing, in fact I liked it more than the famous octopus Galician style (with a sprinkle of smoked peppers)....and we rounded it off with pimientos de padron, another favourite!! We do love the informality here, and the relaxed dress code etc. - no one in Dior outfits or fancy shoes - in fact everyone seems to wear sneakers, not just the walkers - maybe it’s the cobbles... Also, can’t get over the prices...a glass of wine - beautiful Rioja red - costs anything from €1 to €1.75!

    So now returned for some downtime. Amr is downstairs in the jacuzzi. Tomorrow we walk!    Läs mer

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  • Rosie MarzoukThe Camino Revisited 2018Resenär
    Amr and the bull
    Amr and the bull1Approaching Navarrete1View from the top of the townGrapes ready for harvest...Another panorama - with distant bull

    Another day walked - now in Navarrete

    11 september 2018, Spanien ☀️ 26 °C

    We have had a lovely, not too demanding walk to Navarrete this morning. I say this morning because we arrived here a bit before 11.30! It was a pleasant route, taking about an hour just to get out of Logroño, but mostly through parks - not too much of boring city outskirts. Logroño is quite large - it is the capital of the Rioja, but you don’t realise when mainly staying in the old historic centre.

    We still see mountains surrounding, but there was only one gradual rise today, and many vineyards in their red earth, and always olives trees. We passed the famous bull - a huge replica that appears on the skyline (equivalent to the big banana etc maybe)....your see it for miles in every direction.

    Then before we knew it, there was Navarrete on a hill in the distance. Last time we just walked straight through, though I do remember the little Plaza Mayor with its trees and water fountain, as we still had a further 17 kms to go to get to Najera. Thankfully today Navarrete was our destination, and we sat at a bar and had a fresh OJ, heaven as usual, and then went to the hotel. No one seemed to be around, and it was early, so we went off for a bit and went up a huge set of stairs to a park on the very top of the town with a 360° panoramic view....could even see the bull in the distance! We sat in the shade up there for a while, listening to a podcast of Outsiders that Amr had on his phone! Then finally went back to the hotel, rang a very loud bell, and a young, friendly, skinny girl appeared who spoke in rapid Spanish ....fortunately Amr got the gist and we got checked in and found that dinner is in the restaurant that has its entrance outside on a lower level...this town is totally on a hill and very charming.

    Our room is spacious and airy. Amr couldn’t make the shower work (this is a daily IQ test - actually sometimes they are straightforward) so he had a bath....I will try my skill later. Now we are at a bar, having a bocadillo and a glass of wine to keep us going till dinner. And we found that 2 Canadian women we had talked to, but lost in the melee of Logroño, are in the same hotel and we may have dinner together tonight. Very peaceful.    Läs mer

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  • Rosie MarzoukThe Camino Revisited 2018Resenär
    Amr and grapes
    Amr and grapesVineyards and view to NajeraPost walk drinkOur hotelOur room

    Good walk to Nájera

    12 september 2018, Spanien ☀️ 27 °C

    Another great day! Cloudless, cool and crisp as we set off at 8.20am and hot and sweaty when we arrived here at about 1 o’clock, having walked 17.6 kms. The itinerary said 17.4, so was accurate this time! We walked through vineyards and more vineyards, all laden with grapes. Yesterday someone tasted one and said it was sweet, but today someone said tart...not sugary...I think the grape harvest is October usually, so assume they are just needing a few more weeks. They are mostly red, but every now and then there are a few rows of white...and yesterday we saw some labelled Tempranillo blanco....didn’t know Tempranillo could be white.

    Anyway, a lovely walk, not too demanding, but enough to feel hot and ready for a beer on arrival. We did that, before heading to the hotel - stopped at a bar and had a snack as well. Now in this lovely hotel (known from before) and washing and soon will be ready to hit the town and see some of the sights. Last time we had walked the 30 kms from Logroño and didn’t have the energy to do any exploring..so this is good!

    We were in step with 2 Swedish women today for a while, which was fun, but I found that I got quite breathless having an animated conversation while walking! They were having a drink at the bar when we arrived, having sprinted on ahead after a while! And there is an Australian woman from Gold Coast in our hotel...walking alone. So many people from so many places, and the inevitable bike riders zooming past and being annoying!! This wifi seems good, so will see how we go with photos.    Läs mer

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  • Rosie MarzoukThe Camino Revisited 2018Resenär
    Choir in the S. Maria church
    Choir in the S. Maria churchCloistersCloisters

    P.S. to Nájera

    12 september 2018, Spanien 🌙 22 °C

    Just had to add a bit more about the afternoon and dinner, we did go exploring, though by mid afternoon it is very hot and glaringly bright...but found the jewel of Nájera - the Monasterio Santa Maria de la Real, with its church, burial place of kings, queens and knights of Navarra (this must have all once been part of Navarra, and in fact Nájera was the capital of the kingdom of Navarra in the 11th and 12th centuries). And there is a beautiful cloister there...it was abused (used as army barracks, munition storage, prison and even a bull ring!) over the years but in the late 1800s was taken over by Franciscan monks and restored. Very beautiful. Then we had a glass of wine and kindle time, wandered along the river a bit, and waited till dinner time - 7.30. The hotel sends us round to a little restaurant round the corner which we remembered.

    Only one drama...we were sitting, with wine and water, no food yet, when there was a loud thumping on a door....the one very busy waitress was elsewhere so Amr did the rescue thing - someone couldn’t unlock the toilet door....so Amr released her...big commotion, and the waitress came to thank Amr with a big flourish and knocked his glass of vino Tinto all over him! Oh dear, she died of mortification, Amr took off his shirt (luckily he had a respectable black t-shirt underneath, and went back to the hotel to hang up the rinsed shirt (5 mins away).... Finally we sat down to a delicious meal - white beans with shell fish, sort of a soup, a plate of leeks, and we both had the most delicious stuffed peppers...
    So all was well, and now ready to hit the sack, even if only 9.30!

    Tomorrow we walk about 21 kms to Santo Domingo de la Calzada, where the famous chooks are in the cathedral. Life is good.    Läs mer

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