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Walking France and Spain, 2024
  • Rosie Marzouk
  • Rosie Marzouk

Walking France and Spain, 2024

A new walk in the south of France, another pilgrim route from Arles to Lodeve, then 10 days walking the Camino in Spain that we missed last year, on the meseta from Burgos to Leon. Looking forward to another spring walk with the green crops! もっと詳しく
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  • Rosie MarzoukWalking France and Spain, 2024旅行者
    The climb ahead
    1Looking back to Castrojeriz..and down the other sideWild rosemary and Judas treeEntering PalenciaAlong the canalThe lock in the canal entering FromistaColaCao in its own glass!Enormous bed!

    Long walk to Frómista

    2024年5月3日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Another amazing day, but quite a long one…about 27 kms, though Amr’s watch says 28…but it again was sensational, except just when we had almost arrived, and were enjoying walking along the canal de Castillo there was a diversion and we had to take a long cut around some works, where it looks like they are putting a highway through…probably only an extra km but it was a bit boring!

    Otherwise it was great - we set off about 9, and it was cold but not icy, and left Castrojeriz and the first thing was a long climb - about 1.5 kms and 900 metres - which we knew from before, but this time it was a sparkling green and amazing panorama back to Castrojeriz. We had always thought wow, but in spring WOW! The you walk across the plateau and down the other side, steeper but fortunately paved so no sliding loose stones, and another great vista on the other side.

    Then it went on, always green and lovely, and undulating, but it was long. There are many wild flowers - rogue yellow rapeseed plants dotted, rosemary bushes now flowering, and we found from Rachel’s app that one rather straggly but pretty flower was “rocket salad” and looked carefully, and smelt the leaves, and it was rocket, arugula. And there are poppies, and we identified a Judas tree flowering beautifully. We stopped for a break (but to my horror they didn’t do ColaCao) and otherwise just plowed on.

    Got to the lovely canal de Castillo before reaching Frómista and stopped in a bar before even finding the hotel. Finally I had my ColaCao, and it was in a ColaCao glass!!! A first! Also, while we were sitting there an American pilgrim came up to Amr and said how much he loved the hat!! I thought all who have commented would appreciate that…Then found our hotel, all in the same one tonight, and a new one for us. A very modern ecohotel, and large modern room and such a huge bed we will lose each other. All meeting for dinner later, at a restaurant they have given us vouchers for.    もっと詳しく

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  • Rosie MarzoukWalking France and Spain, 2024旅行者
    Amr by a tamariskThe beautiful church, S María de la BlancaAlong the final stretchOur hotel12

    At Carrion de los Condes

    2024年5月4日, スペイン ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    After climbing out of the enormous bed in last night’s hotel (I’m sure it could easily sleep 4!), we set out at about 8.30. And we are now staying at probably the best hotel of the trip tonight (though León will be similar), the hotel Monasterio San Zoilo, an ex monastery and almost like a parador. We’ve been here twice before and so were anticipating a lovely stay. All the hotels have been good, and very varied, but a few stand out.

    It was a fairly easy walk, 20 kms and flat, and we took the more scenic route through the fields and by a river, the alternative being a track beside the road for 15 kms. And it was warmer today, with all the layers on it became almost too many, and just before we arrived Rach and I shed a layer…that just means comfortable….we weren’t shivering for ages afterwards like we were 2 days ago! But it was windy, and we arrived very windswept….but no rain! We are so lucky…

    So despite being fairly flat it was very pleasant and brilliant green countryside, and many birds twittering and Rachel has an app that identifies birdsong! Such fun, we often hear nightingales which I’ve never consciously heard before, also cuckoos, warblers, and today the way was dotted with beautifully flowering tamarisks.

    A highlight of this segment is a visit to a wonderful church - Santa Maria de la Blanca - a Templar church in a small town, Villalcazar de Sirga, about 5 kms before arriving at Carrion. It is a magnificent building and we enjoyed seeing it again…it closes for the afternoon at 1pm, so there is always that deadline as you walk, but we were in good time…

    Had a beer and some croquetas in the bar here before we even checked in. Now relaxing and unwinding. Amr soaked his feet in the bidet just because he could…he is very proud of all the hat comments! We have dinner here at 8 or so and should be good.    もっと詳しく

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  • Rosie MarzoukWalking France and Spain, 2024旅行者
    1The amazing plate of vegetables
    A rare photo of us all together

    At Calzadilla de la Cueza, a tiny town

    2024年5月5日, スペイン ⋅ 🌬 15 °C

    We left our beautiful San Zoilo hotel a little after 9 this morning. Breakfast was at 8, but we knew the weather was unreliable and could get bad later, and it was only about 16 kms. And we knew that tonight would not be as fancy as last night. And I must mention dinner last night, fashionably at 8.30, even the half pension menu was great and it was rather fine dining. Amr, Rachel and I had grilled vegetables for our entrée, and it was a beautifully arranged plate of so many veges - artichoke, peas, beans, eggplant, leek, carrot, pumpkin, zucchini, asparagus, cauliflower, broccoli, tomatoes, Brussels sprouts and even bok choy! served with a romesco type sauce, just delicious and a full meal in itself as is often the case in Spain, pilgrim menus anyway….then you have some form of meat and potatoes…

    So today’s walk was maybe the least spectacular of the meseta, and if walked not in spring, or in bad weather, may cause people to blacklist this section, as it was basically flat and straight, with just a little undulation at the end when you thankfully come across this village hiding just under the horizon. But we had a good walk, and of course it is now green and beautiful, with quite a lot of yellow fields of rapeseed or some mustard crop, and ploughed fields waiting for what I think will be sunflowers, as we saw them before here. There were many moments of beauty.

    One excitement for me was that I discovered my new phone, which I use as a camera and on wifi but has no SIM, can use the app I had downloaded for identifying plants…I had assumed it needed some internet connection, but just decided to try instead of asking Amr or Rachel, and it worked…it is all downloaded!! This was such fun for me, and I trailed along testing plants and flowers. There are so many wild flowers along all the edges - came across some poison hemlock which was the most interesting find of the day.

    Another funny thing happened when we were having a break at one point - there are benches and picnic tables dotted around here and there, and even once a coffee truck sort of set up - there was a woman with a hat like Amr’s!! She said she’d bought it in Australia, but admitted she didn’t know where it was made..! So it’s not as unique as we thought, even though we bought it in a small French village and it is made in Nepal. But Amr wearing it is unique!

    We arrived here at 2 pm and were happy that we had beaten any really bad weather. It was cool but not freezing, though it was very windy which was hard to walk through. But maybe the wind helped keep the rain at bay because we had odd spots of raindrops occasionally, but nothing that required ponchos (though some pessimists put them on and had them flapping madly in the wind). Checked into our basic but more than adequate rooms, had a drink, and people were arriving wind blown and drenched poor things….we were so happy to be warm and cosy by then. They had walked further, from the town where yesterday’s lovely church was. Dinner here at 7.30, all good.    もっと詳しく

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  • Rosie MarzoukWalking France and Spain, 2024旅行者
    1Misty start
    Still mistyA lone little vineyard amongst the grains!A congenial breakBank of wildflowersWith some Irish Canadians

    Another spectacular walk - to Sahagun

    2024年5月6日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    We are debating whether this is the best walk so far, but I think the ones with panoramas from high places rate well too! But we have certainly had a wonderful day - 22 kms - 5° and misty when we set off at 8am, and by about 10.30 mist burnt off and it was sunny and perfect for the rest of the day, temperature rose to a comfortable 16° and I shed a fleece layer for the first time I think!

    Today’s meseta was undulating all the way and so beautiful with the green fields and wildflowers. Rachel and I identified wheat and barley with some difficulty, the crops look similar, but slightly different greens, and already they have the stems of grain visible, all with variations, and I’m always curious to know which is what. And to my delight I recognised a field as we approach Sahagun where twice before we have seen a man harvesting sunflowers. It is now ploughed and with furrows ready to be sown, so it confirms my theory that the fields everywhere which aren’t waving with grain crops are waiting and ready to be planted with sunflowers.

    We also passed, and paused, at the little Ermita about a km before entering Sahagun where we were immortalised by the Google map truck in 2013! It was such a beautiful day, unlike yesterday’s wind and threatening rain, that we took it easy and stopped for refreshments several times, often meeting people we have got to know who stay in the same places…some Americans, Canadians mostly…you get quite festive and it is fun. A couple of women have had bedbug bites which makes me nervous…I haven’t thought about them and all our places seem so good, but of course the best places can get them…so here’s hoping my luck continues!

    And we have been so fortunate with the weather - last night it rained soon after we arrived and during the night there was quite a storm, but all gone by morning, except some puddles and muddy patches now and then. We arrived here about 3. This town is the centre of a huge grain area, and when you first see a vista of the town you see an enormous silo towering over everything else, rather than the usual church tower and steeple. So we celebrated with an arrival beer - so sunny and bright that Amr and Rich sported Hawaiian shirts!    もっと詳しく

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  • Rosie MarzoukWalking France and Spain, 2024旅行者
    Setting off - Plaza Mayor in Sahagun
    Stork with chicks on church towerArt in El Burgo Ranero!

    Easy pleasant walk to El Burgo Ranero

    2024年5月7日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    An easy basically flat walk, 16 kms, along country roads today. Not spectacular views, but consistently pleasant and everyone we met in good humour probably because the weather continues to be perfect for walking. Cold at the start, about 5°, and fingers aching if not in pockets, but warmed up to comfortable but never hot. I actually wore my shorts for the first time this trip! …and put my hat back on..no wind…The path want beside little roads and was lined with plane trees to provide shade - much needed when days are hot, but at this season we welcomed the sun and walked along the road now and then.

    We stopped for coffee/ColaCao at a bar and had lunch sitting on one of the many benches provided along the way…delicious cheese that we’d bought at Sahagun, crackers, apples and chocolate..arrived at 2 and easily found our lodgings - different one from our usual, but similar and good. When we arrived the man running the place was very busy doing lunches and drinks for many people and we waited, not being at all in a hurry. He was funny and joking and brought Rachel and me a lemon drink while we waited (Amr and Rich were getting provisions for tomorrow at the shop which was miraculously open)…the wife appeared too, and checked with us for dinner tonight as we are having dinner there…we hadn’t realised then but they close on Tuesday afternoons and dinner only available for residents, home made by her…so she gave choices one of which was paella which we chose and greatly looking forward to it…we could see it was one of the things on offer when they are open…

    Still all very busy so we had a drink and serving of croquetas while we waited, yum, and finally went to the rooms…simple and fine…but not ideal for the washing I had planned with the afternoon sun - no plug - but just so peaceful. When we arrived there was a lot of talking and laughing and lunching but in the afternoon siesta mode it is all dead quiet. The towns always seem people-less except for pilgrims, but now even they have disappeared!

    We went for a walk round the town which didn’t take long - up our street and down the other - and when you come to the end you are right out in the country again. Many fields neatly ploughed and waiting for planting - if they are all for sunflowers it will be a spectacular panorama of gold! Now back, downtime, sharing photos, Amr watching something on Netflix and dozing. All good.    もっと詳しく

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  • Rosie MarzoukWalking France and Spain, 2024旅行者
    2
    1Half eaten dessert - "don't put me in the pic"...

    Addendum - dinner tonight

    2024年5月7日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Just have to add our dinner…there were the 4 of us, and Phil from Washington DC who is also staying here…our hosts made this wonderful paella just for us, as otherwise they were closed…started with salad, then the paella, then a chocolate cake thing, then camomile (me), coffee or whatever, and of course vino tinto and agua…such fun and just have to add the pics…the paella had prawns, clams, crab, scallops, mussels and was just amazing…もっと詳しく

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  • Rosie MarzoukWalking France and Spain, 2024旅行者
    Our official Camino shot!Our first viewing of livestock for days...Today's roomView from roomIn the main plaza...leaves still budding

    At Mansilla de las Mulas

    2024年5月8日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Another beautiful day! About 19 kms, cold to start and now (4.30) positively hot! But it very quickly cools off when the sun goes down….or before really, as it is light till after 9pm. The walk itself wasn’t spectacular, just continuing on by the country road, but very comfortable….a few undulations, one stop for coffee/colacao where we also ate our picnic supplies in their outside tables, as getting food there was so slow!

    Then we sauntered into town about 2.30. We are in separate accommodation from R and R tonight, and we saw notices for theirs as we entered and explored, as it is where we stayed last time and had such difficulty finding…so we sorted that out, and had a beer together, before we left and found our place - a really gorgeous Albergueria del Camino, right in the centre and have a beautiful room. Each time we have stayed here - this is the third - we have had different hostals and I think this is the pick of the 3…easy to find, happy friendly hosts and great room. Dinner and breakfast here.

    We have a funny history with this town as it was where I had the dread first encounter with bedbugs and it was blacklisted in my mind, but last time was great and I revised my view, and this time confirms it even more. Amr has gone off with a huge bag of clothes to the laundromat - so glad my cold weather clothes will be washed as have been wearing them constantly, and we will be all set for León where we arrive tomorrow, our last walking day.

    When he returns we will walk round and revisit the town….which we did…Met R and R and had a drink with them, as we had dinner at our place at 7pm, like last night, just for residents as they are otherwise closed today. And we have just come back from a spectacular dinner…we joined 3 others we know - Phil from last night, and Erin and Gwen a Canadian aunt and niece (Gwen was one of the bedbug women that Amr helped!)…and the dinner was different from the perennial peregrino menu. We started with a salad which had peach and goat’s cheese delicious, and I had leeks with bacon grilled. Amr had hake perfectly cooked. Excellent. Now off to bed, but no heating needed, but I think cold in the morning.    もっと詳しく

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  • Rosie MarzoukWalking France and Spain, 2024旅行者
    Leaving Mansilla - the walls
    Leon in sightNow the cathedral in sight!Plaza Mayor

    León the magnificent city

    2024年5月9日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    We made it to León, and the walking segment is finished! 20 kms, and can’t say it was a beautiful walk… in fact the last 4 kms was like walking along Parramatta road, with car dealerships and not at all scenic. I had totally blotted this bit from my memory! It was pretty enough as we left Mansilla, and we went through countryside and across a very pretty river, then came to small towns, closer and closer - really the outer suburbs I guess. When you walk in like we did, you see it all spread out and makes you realise it is quite large - it seems quite compact once you are in the historic centre, and you forget all the industrial areas, and blocks of apartments outside.

    We arrived at the hotel at about 3, and it is sad that we will be leaving so early tomorrow morning, as this is a superb hotel…part of the building of the San Isidoro church…was a monastery and we have a room facing into the inner courtyard like the previous monastery/hotel. After settling in we walked round a bit with R and R, remembering where things were, and they worked out where they had stayed 20 years ago doing the camino then (before it was well known). Lots of fun. They have tomorrow to explore more as they are staying another night before setting out on their further adventures. We walked to the cathedral square, walked round the walls a bit and went with them to the 6 o’clock Mass in a cathedral chapel. Sat for a drink in a lovely square, too early for dinner, as we’d already had some sustenance when we arrived…people watching, after siesta and getting very lively. Had dinner in our favourite bar and wandered back as the sun was setting…fond farewells with R and R…always such fun with them, we travel very comfortably together. Now to bed. Next report from Seville!    もっと詳しく

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  • Rosie MarzoukWalking France and Spain, 2024旅行者
    Rach and I checking for barley yesterday1The magical artichokes and peppers!

    Seville - no longer in pilgrim land!

    2024年5月10日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Travel day today…we walked from our lovely hotel before breakfast to the bus station, about a 20-30 min walk. The bus station which was being renovated and rather chaotic a year ago is now great - comfortable waiting area, boards of arrivals and departures, a cafe for our bfast coffee and pastry and free clean loos! What else could you ask for. Our bus was express to Madrid and took about 3 and half hours…arrived before midday and had lots of time to relaxedly get from the enormous Madrid bus station via metro to the Atocha train station for our fast train to Seville.

    All went smoothly, and we remembered how to get tickets to the user-friendly Metro (and managed not to get pick pocketed - all my important things were totally impermeable to roving hands!) and when we got to Atocha had a light bite in our “usual” cafe in the wide leafy boulevard opposite the station. So nice…warm, sunny - I think my fleece that I have been wearing day and evening is now packed away till we return home! And of course here in Andalusia it is even hotter..hits the low 30s at the peak…too hot for me.

    Train ride was 2 and half hours and we went through so much cultivated land..grain fields, but mostly olives everywhere, and many many orchards of presumably oranges. And rugged and craggy rocky parts too..I love just looking out the window and working out the agricultural happenings. Rachel and I just about think we’ve sorted out barley and wheat using our apps! We arrived at 5.45 and were going to walk to our hotel (or hostal really - not sure of the correct definition) which is in the heart of the old town in the labyrinth of streets. Google gave directions and said it would be about 25 minutes. It was hot when we arrived - can’t say we were tired having sat all day, but we suddenly felt we’d get hot and bothered trying to find our way and decided on a taxi…nice driver who knew his way but had trouble as the police for unknown reason were blocking a street he needed and we drove round and round in this maze till he finally gave in and dropped us off at a square and pointed us in the right direction. It wasn’t expensive and I think he felt it was unprofessional not to get us to the door!

    So we headed off, bouncing our bags over the cobbles and with one help of a girl at a bar on the way found our wonderful resting place for the next 3 nights. Up 2 steep flights of stairs to our room (but the bags can go by lift!!) and we are very happy. Very close to the cathedral and all you want to see in Seville, just hope we can always find our way home…went out first and had a beer at the bar where the girl helped us, then walked round a bit but finally gave in and found a table at a lovely little place and had superb food. By 8.30 it was hard to find a table - all the bars were buzzing and had lines of people waiting, so we were lucky. We had an amazing dish of artichoke flower, grilled and spread out flower-like, with truffle, soft poached egg and Parmesan and nuts sprinkled…amazing combo that worked so well! Also for the first time found my fave baby squids, this time with a mushroom/garlic sauce, and our favourite pimientos padron…so we are quite ecstatic.

    But this is so different from pilgrim towns, even big ones like Burgos and León…maybe it’s just Andalusia but SO different. We haven’t been here since 1994, 30 years ago, so the same, but more so I think. On Monday we go to Granada for 2 nights, but have found out that the Alhambra is booked out till June 2!! Oh well, we’ll have a nice day seeing the other things and relaxing. Probably need it after 2 days here in the Seville vibe!    もっと詳しく

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  • Rosie MarzoukWalking France and Spain, 2024旅行者
    Jacaranda time in SevilleThe bull ring - think of Carmen..also oleander timeKindle timePlaza de EspañaOr dinner venue tonight1The tomato salad and the scallops

    Saturday in Seville

    2024年5月11日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    It is siesta time (for us also!) so I will now try to remember the morning, and finish the whole day later. It was comfortably cool in the early morning, and we leisurely left the hostal at about 9 and found a bakery for coffee and pastry…good coffee, but mediocre pastry - will try a different one tomorrow (we have a high standard from France)…and wandered in the direction of the cathedral and alcazar and found there were long queues, and sold out for days…this is so different from 30 years ago, and from all the amazing cathedrals and monuments we have been visiting this trip too! It is a whole new scene for us - hot, big city, many many tourists…wonderful of course, fabulous buildings, amazing food and so many places to eat and drink.

    So I think we have sorted it out - the cathedral and alcazar are booked out on line, but for the alcazar they sell 400 tickets from 9am if you queue (so we’ll try that tomorrow) and you apparently can also queue for the cathedral, but when we went by at about 1 in the heat of the day, there was a long line that would entail standing in the sun for over an hour…that’s when we decided we needed a siesta!!

    But we did have fun this morning wandering these streets, looking at all this from the outside and not getting lost. We found our way to the bus station and booked a bus to Granada on Monday, and on the way back stopped for churros and chocolate, found a wonderful market and wandered, gazed and admired there, and stopped for a white wine and gazpacho before retreating to our sanctuary.

    I don’t do heat! After the walks on the camino I think I was perhaps less knackered than the others…I still had a spring in my step! But now, in this heat I wilt…but come to life when we sit down and refresh in a bar…we actually had a lovely afternoon. We walked and went to the park outside the alcazar and had kindle time, then when stiff from sitting on park benches, walked to the Plaza de España - an amazing plaza with OTT buildings and towers etc, and horses and carriages with tourists…and then on the way back stopped at a cafe for refreshment and felt revived…then came back to room, for ablutions (Amr) and at about 8.15 we set out for dinner.

    We had learned from yesterday that later than that it is hard to get a table anywhere, so we went to our nearby buzzing square - plaza de alfalfa - and went to our chosen place and had to join a wait list, but less than 10 minutes! Success! Had a fabulous evening. I do evenings well…it is light here till almost 10pm, even though further west than UK which would be an hour earlier, it keeps time with the rest of Europe, so it was light but cooler and SO good.

    Had a wonderful meal again…they do amazing unusual combos…a salad of tomatoes with burrata, but with onions, endive leaves, and a lemon ice cream and basil oil!! It worked. Also we had my favourite chiperones but this time they were deep fried (not my thing) but on a bed of ratatouille with a fried egg on top - that part was delicious! Also some divine scallops…and perfect pieces of cod. So we were very happy, and in the square there was a succession of buskers - the first ones were great, flamenco dancing and music, really good.

    Funny things were during the music a big dog objected and barked, which set off a little dog…and a baby in a stroller clapped with the dancing and castanets…such fun and relaxed…plenty of Spanish people, though of course many tourists like us. About to fade…and face another hot day tomorrow…
    .    もっと詳しく

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  • Rosie MarzoukWalking France and Spain, 2024旅行者
    The ringing bells
    In the cathedral chapelThe organist in the choir1The perfect chiperones a la plancha1

    Successful Sunday in Seville

    2024年5月12日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    We (or I) had been a little worried how we would cope today with the heat, weekend crowds and general chaos, but we worked out a successful plan. First was a painful bit - we decided to queue for one of the 400 tickets sold on the day for the Alcazar. So, after only eating mandarins in our room we set off to join the line by 8.45 (they start selling at 9)…we were clicked off - they count off the first 400 so we knew we were in, but it was a LONG line. And it took 2 hours!!! During the time, we learnt that they require ID - to prevent scalping tickets - and my precious passport was tucked away safely in the hotel. Amr had a photo of his which is acceptable, but I hot tailed back, a little nervous that I would get lost in the labyrinth, collected passport and enjoyed the brisk walk! And gained confidence that I wasn’t too dilly and could find my way - at 9.30 the streets are deserted, except for tourists wanting to buy tickets, and shops and bars all closed, and each alley looks the same. The 9.30 bells from the Giralda bell tower of the cathedral entertained us - bells visibly swinging and ringing in every space! (See and hear video)

    After getting the precious tickets, for 3 pm when we would avoid some of the hottest part of the day, we went back to hotel to unwind, hide precious passport away, and recuperate.

    We then went to check the cathedral which had been totally sold out for visits, and discovered that there was a Mass at 1pm, and people could go in for that…so we did. We quite often attend masses on the Camino, especially with Rachel and Richard, and enjoy the peace and contemplative time, even though it is in Spanish. It was in one of the very decorated chapels, and many people were there. And when it was over, we were free to have a wonderful walk around, with many others, and admire the splendour and enormity of this cathedral in total peace. It was Amr’s inspiration that we do this and it was brilliant!

    Then time for lunch and we went to a great place where we hope to go to dinner soon, and had, finally, my chiperones a la plancha which I have been fantasising about, but which we never seem to find available. Delicious, and some cod croquetas. By then it was 3pm and time for our Alcazar visit…and of course it was just amazing. We remembered the exquisite and ornate Islamic decoration and carving…very similar to the Alhambra. So we are satisfied. The only thing missing was that the fountains in the courtyards weren’t founting…I don’t know why. I remember them as the peaceful sight and sound in the courtyards…maybe they worry in these mad times that someone will drown…anyway, after admiring the building itself, we went into the gardens of the alcazar and sat on a seat and had kindle time. Peacocks and ducks, people wandering…just a lovely time. Now back, via some hydration, and will soon set off for dinner. And tomorrow a new adventure - to Granada.    もっと詳しく

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  • Rosie MarzoukWalking France and Spain, 2024旅行者
    From the bus - endless olive trees
    Tonight's roomSangria comes in bottles!Don Quixote in museum part of hotel..and the dining roomAnd the Arabic room

    Granada - still hot!

    2024年5月13日, スペイン ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    This morning we had breakfast at our now favourite place - good coffee and fab OJ - not surprising in Seville, surrounded by orange orchards, and orange trees decoratively in the streets and courtyards. Then we had a last walk around - the morning air is lovely and cool, and stays pleasant until about midday when the heat sets in and gradually fades as the sun sets.

    Got a 1pm bus to Granada, arriving at 4. Drove first through orchards, some grain, and we spotted sunflowers with flowers starting to show! Yay! But then we got to olive land, (there are always some olive groves dotted around) but we came to miles and miles of olive trees, as far as the eye could see, in every hill and valley! So many! Arrived here at the bus station which is on the outskirts of the city, and thankfully never contemplated walking in…and Granada is now large…it may have been large in 1994, but now it seems bigger and busier and thronging with tourists.

    So we got a taxi and had a very entertaining driver, a bit like an old hippie, who spoke rapid Spanish non stop. Amr is very good and brave, and sounds so good that the conversation progresses in Spanish and I’m never quite sure if we missed a vital word…but Amr is also very good at picking up key words and getting the gist! So we had this crazy conversation once he found out we were Australian - his keywords were Nicole Kidman, Russell Crow, Hugh Jackman, didgeridoo, and he told us the best tapas bar to go to which would be like finding a needle in a haystack…

    But we were dropped off at another quaint hostal I had booked, again right in the centre in a tiny alley and walking distance to everything. Only downside of these charming places is there is usually not a lift, and this time we are on the fourth floor, but it is an amazing room - and you only have to carry the bags up once! Almost the same temperature here as in Seville, even though a bit mountainous, but again does cool off.

    When we came back from our first venture the actual owner was at reception, and greeted us and asked if we would like to see the rest which is like a museum. He is a lovely middle aged man, a bit crazy, and mad about medieval things…the hotel is actually about 4 terrace houses, but after covid only 2 being used as rooms, and one is the “museum” part - a dining room with extraordinary furniture, suits of armour and more, and another is an Arabic room, with Islamic furniture and artifacts…quite amazing. He said his elderly mother cooks dinner two nights a week for his family and guests who want to come, and it is a medieval feast …with costumes! We signed up for it…despite not being fancy dress people, it sounds mad and fun, so that will be an experience tomorrow night.

    Meanwhile we came back to a nearby bar which we had decided on for a meal as they had calamari a la plancha, but when we had settled in and asked for it he said no calamari today - Monday, so can’t be fresh - a good reason, we were impressed, and had a good dinner anyway. Now, having climbed our four storeys of stairs, ready for bed!    もっと詳しく

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  • Rosie MarzoukWalking France and Spain, 2024旅行者
    View from mirador san Nicolas
    Still some snow on the mountains1The cathedralThe cathedral5With Don Quixote

    Our whole day in Granada

    2024年5月14日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    A very good day, and we haven’t had this crazy dinner yet. But it wasn’t hot!! Bliss for me, and in fact I had to run up the 4 flight to our room when we set out this morning to get my cardigan and Amr’s puffer jacket! We took them off by midday, but I was cold in the cathedral, and the temperature never rose above mid 20s I think…perfect.

    So we had breakfast, good coffee, mediocre pastry but enough to get us walking up the hill to the mirador san Nicolas where there are rather spectacular views over to the Alhambra and down to Granada itself. Then we walked back through the Albercin area, narrow streets, very pretty and very uneven cobbles to walk on. On the way up, or earlier we stopped for coffee/chocolate and churros, and when we finally got back to the centro we had lunch…I had virtually given up calamari plancha as everywhere it is fried like you can get anywhere, but we stopped at a place that seemed frequented by locals mainly and found that after 1 pm the lunch menu would start and indeed they did do plancha…so happy and it was delicious…

    Then back to the room for a little downtime before setting off again to see the cathedral and another uphill walk, this time on the Alhambra side. The cathedral is amazing, as so many of these cathedrals are - massive and very ornate. You get an audio tour on your phone which even I could do with the help of their wifi, and we had a good visit with all the details of chapels..then we walked up the hill on the Alhambra side, and were able to walk into the gardens and some of the outer buildings, and look over to where we had looked from in the morning. So lots of uphill walking, and then a gentle walk down…had a pre dinner drink at our nearby plaza and then a relax before the dinner at 8.

    So Carmen, the wife of Manuel the owner, brought us costumes to wear…rather uncomfortable…but actually Amr looked rather dashing! We had thought that he, Manuel, and his wife and daughter, would also be at the dinner…a family dinner that his elderly mother (aged 77!!) cooked. In fact they weren’t eating with us, but there was a very nice middle aged Swiss woman, Anne, and an Asian/American couple, Carole and Sampson, who live in Seattle, and we all got along well and had lots of chat…but a bit weird, and the meal was nice, but not a dining experience! So we are now back and ready for bed…bus at 10am for Cordoba where we stay for 3 nights, and where Omnia joins us!    もっと詳しく

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  • Rosie MarzoukWalking France and Spain, 2024旅行者
    View from our room - the vet school
    Beautiful buildings everywhereIn one of the lovely courtyardsFields of cultivation from the bus

    Bus to Córdoba

    2024年5月15日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    This morning we got up reasonably early and found a good nearby and open place for breakfast, then got a taxi to the bus station, walking up and down the four flights in the hostal for the last time! It was an interesting bus ride - again millions of olive trees, but as we moved on there were other crops, and fields of pale yellow and on closer inspection we think it was the grain crops already drying out, as it was quite deep and tall…so the green new growth maybe doesn’t last all that long, or maybe everything is a bit earlier here in the warmer south. Also fields of green potential sunflowers - just endless fields of cultivation.

    Arrived at Córdoba at a bit after one, and walked to the hotel, quite walkable distance from the bus station, and also train station where we leave from on Saturday. And we are now at a real hotel!! With lift, everything more conventional than the last 2 charming gems. But we are very well situated, and a short walk into the historic centre and all that we want to see.

    And soon after our arrival Omnia also arrived, from Madrid by train! Lovely reunion with her. And after a short pause we all walked out and first sat and had a little light refreshment…some delicious croquetas of spinach and pine nuts…great combo…to keep us going till dinner. Then we all wandered round a bit, through the very pretty narrow streets, admiring the gorgeous courtyards leading into buildings and just getting a feel of the town. We have 2 full days here, and we are booked in to see the Mesquita tomorrow - booked online after experience in Seville and Granada, but may not even have been necessary as it was easy to choose day and time!! This town has a lovely feel - not as frenetic as Seville or even Granada, and is so charming and manageable. Glad we have 3 nights here. And the temperature is even perfect…cool in morning, and not too hot at peak…

    Just back from dinner now…we had spotted a good potential place in our meandering…it was a Jewish establishment, though I hadn’t noticed that at first, but we had noticed the interesting menu posted up, and the food was delicious and a little bit different from what we have experienced in Andalusia so far. But it was a bit chaotic - we got there at about 7.30 and one poor girl was working the whole place it seemed…at about 8 more workers appeared, probably the 8 o’clock eating hour… anyway we had delicious eggplant with honey and sesame seeds (which we were offered twice more…!), patatas bravas with spicy sauce, chiperones plancha(!!!), a version of pimientos padron and all wonderful when they finally arrived. I have a very good feeling for our visit here.    もっと詳しく

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  • Rosie MarzoukWalking France and Spain, 2024旅行者
    2Proof - my birthday in Córdoba!
    View of Roman bridgeThe cathedral within the mosque1

    Lovely day in Córdoba

    2024年5月16日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    It is my birthday and has been an excellent day, and it hasn’t finished yet. We met Omnia for a leisurely breakfast around 8.30 in the little bakery attached to, but not part of, the hotel. Then we set off walking, via the tourist info which gave us a better map, and we discovered that our Mesquita tickets also qualify us for entrance to many churches dotted around the town. And it doesn’t have to be today…perfect.

    There are many little narrow streets, and flowers and courtyards, so pretty. We wandered down to the river, and walked over the Roman bridge and up the tower at the end, which is a museum plus a lovely view from the not very high top. We then walked through the old Jewish area, which was quite crowded - round the bridge, the Jewish quarter, the Mesquita and the alcazar is where the hordes go, but still not quite as confronting as Seville and Granada. And the weather remains kind - the same cool to start, and never getting too hot…

    Stopped for refreshments- croquetas - this time with prawn and spinach - and then went to the Mesquita for our 2pm time slot…we had bought tickets online, but of course found out today that for this we could have got them on the spot!! Oh well…it was easy. And very popular…many many people, but this is such a vast area it doesn’t feel too crowded. It was built as a huge mosque in 788 AD with many columns, and when the Christians overthrew the Arabs they turned it into a huge cathedral in the 1200s. It is an extraordinary building, with the columns and lamps like a mosque, then you find a gothic cathedral structure all amongst it. Fortunately they kept a lot the beautiful Islamic decoration…it is a huge area, and there are chapels all around the edge. It is hard to describe, and impossible to take photos that capture the whole, but of course we all attempt to.

    After that, Omnia had her own wander looking at the very interesting shops and streets, and we did our own wander, ending up with downtime back at hotel. Getting ready for birthday evening!

    …Now just, and it’s after 11..late! But we had a remarkable evening. First we went to the concert we had seen a notice about at the Conservatorio Superior de Musica - featuring saxophonists. So we thought might be fun…it was free, and obviously was students practising their performing… but they were good…it went for a little over an hour, and at first I was happy, but not enthralled, but then it pepped up, and they did a version of the Tchaikovsky serenade for strings arranged for 11 saxophones, some Manuel de Falla ending with the ritual fire dance, and an encore of a Brahms Hungarian dance!! Didn’t think I’d ever hear them played by saxophonists! They were good, and got riotous applause from (I think) fellow students…Amr took a short video of the encore - (not forbidden at this sort of concert!) it isn’t in focus, but you can get a sense of the fun!

    Then we went to a restaurant where we had booked for 9.30. Really good…not posh, but obviously popular and delicious food. At that hour it was still busy, but tourists had left by then…more people walked in after us…no problem, kitchen still busy. Lovely birthday evening!    もっと詳しく

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  • Rosie MarzoukWalking France and Spain, 2024旅行者
    1
    In the synagogueStatue of MaimonidesIn the alcazarView down into the gardens1

    Last day in Córdoba and the south

    2024年5月17日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Another lovely day. We met Omnia at 9, had breakfast and headed off towards the Jewish quarter again, hoping to beat the crowds in the narrow streets…and we did..very successful - we found the synagogue which is hard when tour groups are blocking the way, very old and interesting - only one of the 3 synagogues left in Spain. Then we went to the Alcázar of the Christian kings…another big fortress, but not Arabic style. And no long queue to get in, though quite a lot of people and school groups, and we got in free - being jubilados- retired!! It was a good visit, and a tower to climb with great views (and not so high that it was a huge effort to climb). Then that led on to the alcazar gardens which were almost the highlight. Beautifully laid out, the ubiquitous orange trees, sculpted cypresses, and others - flowers in bloom, and importantly the fountains were founting - the look of them and the tinkling of the water is such a pleasure - calming and beautiful. Then visited the Khalifa baths (also free jubilados)…ruins from the Islamic period.

    So a lovely morning, and we stopped for bocadillos and coffee/colacao and a break. Then back on the trail to wander some more and find interesting places. Omnia parted from us after a while to do her own things, and Amr and I pursued the churches listed as good to visit and on the list with the Mesquita ticket…but only found one open, a lovely one, but after that they all seemed to be having a siesta…but we had fun wandering in different streets from our usual circuit, and where normal Cordoba residents seemed to be living and having their normal lives….stopped for another refreshment and back in room for downtime.

    Still perfect weather, doesn’t get too hot. Clouds floating around, but no imminent rain and mostly sunny. Amr is suffering terribly from spring allergies which is driving him mad with an annoying cough and runny nose and we hope this will improve tomorrow when we go to Madrid. It has only been since we came south, and this time last year he was fine in Madrid…so here’s hoping. Meeting Omnia at 7 for our last dinner here, then get a train late tomorrow morning back to Madrid.

    …I had published, but just have to add that we had the most perfect dinner! Amr and I had seen areas off the tourist track which looked fun and when we went there at about 7.30 all was a bit quiet, but we decided to sit at one place and try…and had a drink and asked for menu and it was different from the usual things we had kept having…still Spanish style but with little twists…Spanish fusion? Anyway, it was amazing, and such a lovely end to our Córdoba experience…by the time we left, people were queuing up and waiting for us to pay and leave…such luck and a perfect evening!    もっと詳しく

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  • Rosie MarzoukWalking France and Spain, 2024旅行者
    Ice creams in Sol
    The crowds, and rallyPlaza Santa AnaThe crazy bar we enjoyed!

    Back in Madrid for 1 night

    2024年5月18日, スペイン ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    Not a lot to say for today…we had a last walk round Córdoba in the lovely morning sun before getting our train back here…whizzing along at 270 kms/hr. Checked into our hotel, managed to outwit pickpockets in the metro from Atocha back to Sol (the same crowded Saturday afternoon line as a year ago! ) . Poor Omnia had a problem as somehow her booking (not in our place) had been cancelled…some stuff up, but she managed to get a room in an airport hotel which actually was better as she has a 6am flight…so we walked around, Amr bought some shoes, and we had a little dinner at a favourite Basque tapas bar, had an ice cream at a popular Italian helado place which always has a queue, and she got a taxi to the airport - easier than at 3am!

    Sol is always crowded, and this being Saturday especially so. And there was a pro Palestinian rally going on adding to the noise and people! Amr and I wandered round a bit longer, wandering via plaza Santa Ana, and little streets that we remember, and ended up having a glass of wine standing in a bar as we weren’t eating, and before we knew it it totally filled with so many people, and we watched the process of cooking the garlic prawns and much seafood on the plancha…we will go back tomorrow to eat ….

    Now back - Amr is still spluttering, hope the Madrid air will improve him tomorrow…still cloudless and beautiful weather. We needn’t have brought ponchos, or even umbrellas!    もっと詳しく

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  • Rosie MarzoukWalking France and Spain, 2024旅行者
    1With the prawns
    ..and the chiperonesThe vibe having lunchThe Ukrainians...and the vintage carsPlaza de EspañaPlaza Mayor

    Last day in Spain

    2024年5月19日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    We have had a fantastic last day, but now we are sitting at the airport, flight delayed by 45 minutes, so will write up now and try and remember what we did. Tonight we fly to Paris and stay at a CDG airport hotel for 2 nights, and begin the voyage home on Tuesday, arriving in SYD on Wednesday. So tomorrow we have a last Paris day!

    So this morning we first went to the best pastry shop, La Mallorquina, in Sol, and had THE best pastry, then off to THE best churros place, and had fresh OJ, churros, chocolate (the thick dipping sort) and coffee! So a very satisfying start. The Spanish pastries had not been up to scratch, but today redeemed them. Then we went back to the hotel to pack our bags, and leave there for the afternoon, as we had to check out of the room.

    Then we were free, and walked quite a lot. First to the Plaza de España where we sat down and had a little kindle read…always lots happening there. Today was a Ukrainian gathering…not a noisy protest as such, but they were singing what sounded like a national anthem…then as we were leaving we had to wait while a procession of vintage cars (20s and 30s Amr says) drove past, with vintage people, and honking their horns. Then we walked back up the Gran Via which for some unknown reason was closed to cars - normal later when we were there - maybe some important person was going to drive through…anyway, all very pleasant, lots of people enjoying Sunday morning…we walked down to the beautiful boulevards with a central park near the museums, then back and went for some lunch at the crazy and busy bar we were at last night.

    We picked just the right time, as we got seats outside in the shade, on stools beside a barrel, perfect view of the whole scene. So we ordered the wonderful prawns in garlic oil we’d seen being cooked last night (I think everyone was having them, they are so delicious) and we had a last serve of perfectly cooked chiperones a la plancha. As crazy as ever - so many people piling into the small inside bar that we thought it must lead to a secret dining room, but no, they were all squeezed in standing and eating and drinking!

    Then we went back to Sol and sat and read…need to finish the book reading book…then bought some mandarins and mineral water (necessities for Amr!) and picked up bags and made our way to the airport. Very easy and efficient by metro, and here we are at the gate with extra time on our hands, so will post this using the airport wifi.    もっと詳しく

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  • Rosie MarzoukWalking France and Spain, 2024旅行者
    Chez Denise covered up
    LunchChez Denise uncovered and open..The huge St Eustache2

    Wonderful last day in Paris

    2024年5月20日, フランス ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Last night after the flight delay, we didn’t check in to the hotel till after midnight (after walking 1.8 kms through terminal 2 to get to the little train shuttle that took us to terminal 3 where our hotel is!!) so we slept in till about 8.30 this morning, and felt very leisurely as we didn’t have to pack or check out…

    We got the RER to the city, and our first mission was to collect a watch Amr had taken when we first arrived for repair…long story, but it hadn’t come back from where it was sent…(I wonder if Amr will ever see it again..), but they were officially closed today and at first were very offhand till one person tried to be helpful…so that wasn’t a great start to the day, but then things improved greatly! The watch people said May 20 is a French holiday - they didn’t know why, and I must look it up…but anyway, Paris was surprisingly manageable, and not fighting crowds etc, which was good.

    Our next goal was to go to Chez Denise to see if we could make a reservation for dinner tonight…but when we arrived the whole entrance was blocked off with black covers..and they were filming..(we found out it was for a film about de Gaulle)…we couldn’t even enquire or go in at all…one person said she thought they would be open tonight…so that was another not so good thing, but we did keep positive about the chance of going tonight, but it was an uncertainty! Then we stopped for coffee and pastries having not had dinner last night, and only a mandarin and banana at the hotel, much needed.

    After that we had a shopping mission to Galeries Lafayette…quite a session there - the enfant floor to find something for Amr’s godson Harry’s daughter, the Mariage Freres section for Amr’s special teas, and the perfume section for Denise….After that we (I) was weak from hunger and shopping (not really my thing) and we went to a favourite cafe near the Opera and had a perfect “French” lunch of onion soup and a goat’s cheese salad and a glass of rosé. That was perfect, and we were both rejuvenated. Even enough to have a look into Uniqlo! On our way from there to the Tuileries where we planned to sit and read, Amr spotted a man carrying a TWG bag, which is a very special tea shop that he didn’t know was in Paris. So he asked the man where it was and it is a special shop in the Ritz, in their gallery of special shops!! So with heads held high we marched into the Ritz, asked where to find it and walked the hallowed halls…very beautiful, and Amr bought more tea, and also coffee at another shop!!

    After all that excitement we did go and sit and read on chairs round the pond in the Tuileries until the weather changed (which had been predicted - we even took umbrellas) so we scuttled with everyone before there was a downpour, and found a cafe where we took refuge in an upstairs hideaway, had a drink and didn’t actually notice much rain, but when we emerged there were puddles everywhere, but again we were lucky as it stopped by then and I never did use my umbrella!

    We then thought we’d try our luck with Chez Denise, found it open - or not open, but people there and all the film covers gone, and made a booking for 7.30…a wait of about 45 minutes..so we wandered in the Forum Les Halle’s which is now an enormous Westfield mall and rather ghastly, but we discovered we could pick up the RER back to CDG from there - the dread Chatelet/Les Halles metro and RER interchange which we have many times got lost in - but it looked straightforward- and after dinner we tried it and it worked and we were expressed back to the hotel.

    To fill in more time till 7.30 we looked into the enormous church we always see near there - St Eustache…it is huge, and beautiful, and we managed to see and admire before it closed for the day. Then we went back to Chez Denise and had, as usual, a wonderful meal. You always get chatting to your neighbours as you are so close, and we had 2 Frenchmen next to us, then at their table a young couple from HongKong were seated next to them…so they were delighted to have Australia on one side and HongKong on the other, and very good ambiance. We had the chef’s terrine and the kidneys (they are big servings and we now know to share) and I had to have their enormous ile flottante!! I have to add that I don’t have my phone with me so Amr is in charge of the pics and will not wait till you are posed and smiling…)

    Anyway, a lovely end to the day, now back and semi packed ready to start the big flights home tomorrow morning.    もっと詳しく

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  • Rosie MarzoukWalking France and Spain, 2024旅行者

    Home sweet home

    2024年5月22日, オーストラリア ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    Just a finishing post to get us home. Uneventful flights. So nice to be in a hotel right at the airport…we wandered in leisurely and actually checked in our bags (as not vital on journey home and we had about 4 hours in Doha, easier without bags). Qatar airways very efficient, food even edible. So here we are, after unpacking - and Amr starting a wash! - we had a brisk walk along the beachfront to Queenscliff and back, bought stuff for breakfast tomorrow and will soon try to feel sleepy. No photos, except one Amr forgot to give me yesterday of the men’s toilet in the Paris Ritz!!もっと詳しく

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    旅行の終了
    2024年5月22日
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