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Nanna and Opa do South Korea
  • Lynne Schroeder
aug. – sep. 2019

Nanna and Opa do South Korea

Et 23-dagers eventyr av Lynne Les mer
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  • Reisens start
    31. august 2019
    Lynne SchroederNanna and Opa do South KoreaReisende
    Two of the Travel Guides with Camers in their Faces Mid Flight
    Pool in Our Hotel Between Bar and Restaurant SeatingLaneway Next to OursCooking dried fish over an open flameChicken Sandwich Coming UpTouting For Customers

    Travel Guides and Poolside Beers

    31. august 2019, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    It's curious how a couple of big cameras can whip up a flush of curiosity. What we weren't expecting was to have a film crew join us in our teeny tiny cramped little airplane. The participants of a local TV reality travel show were on our flight and that meant obligatory pieces to camera between the first drinks service and lunch. Made getting to the loo a bit of an adventure.

    The flight from Sydney to Ho Chi Minh City is around eight hours, which is about as much as we can readily endure but at least the airline is good.

    After collecting our bags we find our driver and 40 minutes later we are at our hotel. The driver drops us at the end of a laneway where we are met by someone from the hotel who leads us the rest of the way along a pedestrian and scooter only street.

    The hotel is a narrow four storey building and our room is on the top floor. On the ground floor is a small pool that opens staight out onto the street. That's our first stop, then to find dinner which is a sampling of three or four street stalls.

    Back at the hotel and we have a cute little covers band by the pool and a doorman using his dance moves to woo people inside.    Les mer

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  • Lynne SchroederNanna and Opa do South KoreaReisende
    1Beef Pho for Breakfast
    1Corn Vendor1Coffee: Vietnamese and Iced. Comes with Tea1Really Narrow Apartment Blocks1Phung Son PagodaInside Phung Son PagodaBanh Mi Vendor1Drive in Eatery, Ho Chi Minh Style1Hotel With ParkingIced Tea Stop

    A Taste of Vietnam

    1. september 2019, Vietnam ⋅ 🌧 31 °C

    We have one day here and really want to get a feel for the place in a really short time. Breakfast is a buffet overlooking the pool. On offer, in addition to the usual breakfast cereals and warmers with eggs, sausages and bacon is beef or chicken noodle soup. Make your choice and a prepared bowl has broth ladled over then served with freshly sliced chilli and a sliver of fresh lime.

    Today we are walking, and it is humid. We set out from our hotel and tackle the onslaught of motor scooters aimed directly at us. Pedestrian crossings are only a guide. After a few blocks we duck in to a cafe for Vietnamese coffee which is prepared by positioning a tin drip canister over a glass. It is strong, sweet and delicious, and served with a glass of tea on the side which is novel.

    We continue map in hand, yes the paper variety and it still serves us well. We find ourselves in what appears to be the hardware neighbourhood, shop after shop of hardware items, before tracking down a pagoda I had discovered was nearby. Its squat shape with brightly coloured roof tiles, ridge caps and ornamentation provides a contrast to the unusual but intriguing very narrow apartment buildings on either side. Unsure of the protocol, we peer inside without crossing the threshold to admire the painted and gilded interior with enormous incense spirals suspended from the ceiling.

    Our hotel receptionist had suggested a street nearby that was known as the antiques street (she wrote "old" on our map to indicate this). We pass more food vendors on the way and a curious hotel with parking for motor scooters inside the front foyer. We wander its length stopping here and there to inspect an item that catches our eye as we go, pausing for a rest and cool drink along the way.    Les mer

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  • Lynne SchroederNanna and Opa do South KoreaReisende
    We Were Going to go Up There. This is as Close as We Got
    Winning TrustHaving a ChatSquirrel!Notre Dame CathedralThe Old Saigon Post OfficeCoconut Water VendorBien Tanh MarketStanding in the Laneway Looking into Our HotelWhole Fish for Dinner

    A Second Taste of Vietnam

    1. september 2019, Vietnam ⋅ 🌧 28 °C

    Exiting the street of old wares, Le Cong Kieu, we turn a corner and see the Bitexco Tower almost right in front of us. Actually, it's a few blocks away but its size brings it closer. We are debating whether to go there or bypass it and head straight for the Notre Dame cathedral when Richard is approached by a man with the familiar question, "Where you from?" The gentleman is a cycle taxi driver and after a photo and being joined by his mate, Richard asks how much to take us to the Notre Dame cathedral. He replies "500". We have not yet learned that for reasons of simplicity the Vietnamese tend to drop the last three zeroes from numbers when referring to prices but while I am still mentally converting what seems like a ridiculously small amount in my head, thinking, "this can't be right, I wonder if he means 500,000 and maybe we should have clarified and negotiated" we are already in the seats and on our way.

    They take us past the markets, through the park, around the Imperial Palace and drop us off across the road from the cathedral. Richard later remarks that he doesn't feel so bad about paying $35 to a guy who is the same age as us to lug us around in tropical heat in the middle of the day. But the heat is sapping Richard's energy and he lays down in the shade of a tree while I go off to photograph squirrels.

    Once he feels rested we head for the cathedral which, typically it seems for us, is under tarpaulins and scaffolding. We take a few pics and decide not to join the crowds going inside. Instead, I potter around the tourist shops in the old Post Office building while Richard enjoy's some McDonald's aircon.

    Batteries recharged we hit the streets and head for Ben Thanh markets. The food markets are a compromise between authentic Vietnamese street food and sit down eating aimed at tourists; a way for tourists to claim they have tried the local street food. But there's some pretty amazing stuff on offer. We have some prawn dumplings, a pork roll and some chicken with noodles and veg before venturing inside the main market proper. This is a fairly imposing space with narrow alleys and stalls with goods spilling out in all directions. We traverse the length of the market, trying to avoid being accosted before quickly exiting to make our way back to the hotel.

    We decide to have dinner in tonight as the girls have shouted us dinner for Father's Day. The meal is delicious; spicy barbecued prawns, pork belly and whole fish.    Les mer

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  • Lynne SchroederNanna and Opa do South KoreaReisende
    Welcome to Korea. Airport
    Beef Barbecue. First Meal in South Korea

    Up Early for Our Next Leg

    2. september 2019, Sør-Korea ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Our flight from Ho Chi Minh City to Seoul is at 9:00am which means leaving the hotel at 5:30. We have organised transport and for a light breakfast to be ready for us to take with us. The trip to the airport takes around half the time it took on arrival. A quick check-in leaves us plenty of time to kill so Richard finds a place to sleep. This flight is less impressive than the first with no individual entertainment so the in-flight movie, after a documentary about a golf course photographer (fascinating << sarcasm), was one of the Marvel things that all look the same, made no sense, and couldn't keep me awake. At least it's only five and a half hours.

    Incheon Airport is huge, so big in fact that we are piled on to a train to get from the concourse to the arrivals terminal. Walking through the terminal we are greeted with mass plantings of orchids in pots. My mum would love them. Although the queue for immigration looks long they have a lot of people processing and we are through in 20 minutes. When we find the luggage carousel we must be the last on our flight to get there. Our bags are sitting on the floor next to the carousel all alone. That's a first.

    Now to find a train. I should have put my pedometer on. We must have walked at least a couple of kilometres to the station. We choose the all-stops over the express as it runs every 10 minutes. Our ticket will take us straight through to the station nearest our hotel. A trip of about an hour gets us in to Seoul Station where we need to find the line for Myeong-dong. This station is massive. We go up four long sets of escalators to reach Line 4 and walk what seems like miles as well.

    Our hotel is only a short distance from the station but we manage to exit the exact opposite exit, across the road and in the opposite direction, even though I knew which exit to look for (insert eyeroll). We see our room and gulp. They had a very, very good photographer for the online shots. Ok, we are here for four nights and we will make the most of it but first dinner.

    We walked past about a dozen small eateries to reach the hotel so head out to check them out. They all have their signage in Korean only so it is a case of look in the door and see what appeals. We choose the third place and take our cue to remove our shoes from the others left in the doorway. After three months of using Duolingo and listening to a Korean language podcast I get a chance to use one of the three words I have successfully learned, and greet the two women and man peering at us curiously. Richard expresses his priority immediately, "beer?". I don't know the word for beer yet. We receive nods all 'round and proceed to a table.

    We point to an item on the menu and using hand gestures establish that we only want one to share. They bring out a tray of side dishes and then set up the table cooker. We have an amazing meal of beef with around 15 side dishes.    Les mer

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  • Lynne SchroederNanna and Opa do South KoreaReisende
    Part of a Display off Myeongdong called Comic Street
    Part of a Display off Myeongdong called Comic StreetPart of a Display off Myeongdong called Comic StreetView of Seoul Tower from our RoomDried Fish at the Namdaemun MarketThese Guys Just Popped out of the SubwayThese Guys Just Popped out of the SubwaySungnyemun Gate near Namdaemun MarketsSungnyemun Gate near Namdaemun MarketsClose-up of the Dragon inside the Arch of the Sungnyemun Gate,

    Kawaii and Markets

    3. september 2019, Sør-Korea ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    It wasn't a fun night. There was a time once when a room like this would have been fine for us but we have to acknowedge that we really need something a touch more comfortable nowadays. I talk to the woman behind the desk to work something out first, then go see another hotel just around the corner to see if we can get a room. Once it is all sorted I pick up a couple of takeaway coffees and toasted snacks for breakfast. Korean bread is very light and a little sweet, not unlike brioche. A chain of stores called Paris Baguette has all kinds of bread snacks such as croque monsieur and french toast, or their versions of. On the way I stop to photograph all the little Kawaii characters adorning the streetscape.

    We pack up our stuff and move around the corner, leaving behind the mountain view. Once settled in to our new room we head off in the direction of the Namdaemun Markets. These aren't just a city block, the markets occupy an entire district with street names like Jewelry Row and Hairtail Alley. Richard is peckish and stops for a fried something on a stick and we press on. I love markets and I also find them intimidating. This one is an assault on the senses. We make our way along the fish alley where stews are bubbling right alongside the narrow footway. After a while we pop out the other side right in front of the Sungnyemun Gate, a solid and imposing structure dating back to the 1400s with a few touch ups over the years. As we consider which direction to go to best see it suddenly a platoon of colourful guards emerges from the subway in front of us and head into the markets. And as suddenly as they appeared, they are gone!

    The gate is situated in the middle of a city intersection with traffic and tall city buildings surrounding it. Standing beneath its arch provides cool relief from the heat of the day and offers a chance to admire the rather impressive dragons that guard the threshold at this point in the western wall.    Les mer

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  • Lynne SchroederNanna and Opa do South KoreaReisende
    Underground Art, one of the exits from Seoul Station
    Taken from Seoullo7017Taken from Seoullo7017Taken from Seoullo7017Seoullo7017Seoullo7017GinsengRichard Does a Deal With the Fruit Man, MyeongdongStreet Vendor, MyeongdongSpruiking for Business for the Cat Cafe, Myeongdong

    Chicken and Beer

    3. september 2019, Sør-Korea ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Later in the afternoon we take the metro to Seoul main station and head for Seoullo7017 but of course this means negotiating the Seoul station underground labyrinth first. The maps are great. Every exit is numbered and although not every exit has escalators there are 3-D illustrations of the station layout everywhere. You just have to work them out. So we exit somewhere, I am still unsure where and spot a bar. Seems like a good spot to get re-oriented.

    The Seoullo7017 used to be a freeway overpass and it has been turned into a pedestrian walkway with trees and plants and elevated lookouts. It takes us most of the way back to the Sungnyemun Gate which we hoped to see at night under lights. We've arrived too early and don't fancy hanging around so slowly make our way back through the market until we come across a hole in the wall selling fried chicken and beer. That's it. Nothing else. Just fried chicken and beer. Filled a hole.

    We return via the Myeond-dong street markets and eye off tomorrow night's dinner. Oh, and the cat guy, spruiking the cat cafe.    Les mer

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  • Lynne SchroederNanna and Opa do South KoreaReisende
    Some Girls Ready to Enter the Gyeongbokgung Palace
    Gyeongbokgung PalaceGyeongbokgung PalaceGyeongbokgung PalaceGyeongbokgung Palace in the RainTaken from the cafe at Gyeongbokgung PalaceGyeongbokgung PalaceGyeongbokgung PalacePagoda at Gyeongbokgung PalaceSelfie Checking at Gyeongbokgung Palace

    A Palace. A Big One

    4. september 2019, Sør-Korea ⋅ 🌧 20 °C

    We deliberately chose accommodation without breakfast to force us to get out and try local. I admit that today's choice didn't require much imagination. Right across the road from us Tous les Jours... Yes, I know. But it was quick and satisfying.

    We've got this Seoul metro thing nailed. One stop on the blue line then change to the orange line. Four stops to Gyeongbokgung. A bit of a trek underground to exit and a few more steps than I'd like and we are there. It's a bit of a drizzly day today but we have come prepared. We spot our first group of young girls in traditional Korean dress or Hanbok. You can hire these not far from the palace then gain free entry to several of the ancient sites so I know we are going to see lots of them, but they make great photos. The weather just means we are going to see less traditional footwear as skirts are hoisted to avoid puddles.

    The palace is beautiful and somehow even more so in the rain. Set against a mountain backdrop and hugged in brooding dark cloud it is a place of serenity even with groups of school tours thronging about. We sit in the outdoor area of the cafe in the grounds to take a load off and enjoy the rain falling on the small lake surrounding one of the many pavillions. A couple of Korean school girls see me and giggling say "hello" in unison. I reply "Annyeong haseyo" and they run away exclaiming "woah!"

    The photos tell more of a story today than I can wax unlyrical although some may have water droplets    Les mer

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  • Lynne SchroederNanna and Opa do South KoreaReisende
    Bukchon Hanok Village
    Bukchon Hanok VillageBukchon Hanok VillageBukchon Hanok VillageBukchon Hanok VillageBukchon Hanok VillageBukchon Hanok VillageBukchon Hanok VillageBukchon Hanok VillageHanbok Rental Shop in Bukchon

    Exploring the Traditional Houses

    5. september 2019, Sør-Korea ⋅ 🌧 23 °C

    We decided to get breakfast on the go today so we head out in the direction of Bukchon Hanok Village. This part of Seoul has been preserved by the government to retain the character and history of the traditional housing model. There are cafes and stores as well as places where you can see traditional crafts, but many of the houses are occupied as private dwellings. We find a place for breakfast which is mainly pastries, tarts and very strong coffee before diving in to the gradually climbing laneways which eventually bring you to a point where you can look down across the rooves. This also the part of town where you can hire the hanbok so you can wander the streets and sites of Seoul in traditional dress and gain free entry for doing so.Les mer

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  • Lynne SchroederNanna and Opa do South KoreaReisende
    Leaving Seoul
    Nature. WildlifeAlong the Road Leaving SeoulMyeongdong Dakgalbi Street, ChuncheonMyeongdong Dakgalbi Street, ChuncheonLunch in Myeongdong Dakgalbi Street, ChuncheonMyeongdong Dakgalbi Street, ChuncheonSicily Pension, HongcheonSicily Pension, HongcheonSicily Pension, Hongcheon

    Leaving Seoul

    6. september 2019, Sør-Korea ⋅ 🌧 23 °C

    We check out a little neighbourhood we hadn't explored previously and find a place selling toasted sandwiches; coffee next door. Not very thrilled with Korean coffee so far. Served in very big cups, and strong and bitter. Today we leave Seoul but first we must pick up the rental car. After checking out we make our way to Dongdaemun and after several false starts finally succeed in locating the office. The first challenge is to get the car up the very narrow spiralling exit from seven floors down and then figure out which direction to head in. The car has Sat Nav and I am quickly able to punch in a general destination. The plan is to fine tune it once we get out of the city.

    We whizz past the Dongdaemun Design Plaza which had been on my hope-to-see list, not least because it could well be the one and only Zaha Hadid project I will ever get to see. Well, I did, ever so briefly. And hit the motorway. I am disoriented, I feel like we are heading in the wrong direction and begin to doubt the navigation but eventually realise that all is good. I had ear-marked a possible place to stop along the way but as we get nearer it feels like it doesn't offer much so we keep going. We make a brief stop beside a river but there is no way to get down to it so after a bit we resume our journey.

    We are headed for Chuncheon after I have read about its fame for being the origin of Chicken Dakgalbi. The Sat Nav takes us straight there. Chuncheon is more of a city than a town. This I was not expecting, but heading into the city centre and finding parking is painless enough. We find the street where the chicken is famous and choose a venue. We sit at a round table with a griller in the centre. A mix of marinated chicken and vegetables is thron onto the grill plate and we are brought a selection of side dishes including whole garlic cloves and lettuce leaves. We later discover that the seats are small bins with padded lids where you can both place your belongings and retrieve an apron. It was definitely worth the detour.

    Our accommodation for tonight is only about half an hour further on but set up a hillside overlooking forest and a small river. It is called the Sicily Pension and with only four rooms and a coffee shop, is set among lovingly cared for gardens.

    We are keeping an eye on the weather as there is a typhoon making its way up the west coast. We think we'll miss the worst of it heading east but we'll probably still encounter some wind and rain.    Les mer

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  • Lynne SchroederNanna and Opa do South KoreaReisende
    Our Host at Sicily Pension. Makes a Good Coffee Too
    Sicily Pension, HongcheonAt Our Accommodation in HongcheonThe BackThe HaircutThe MenuBrunch. Two Noodle Dishes, One with Bean Paste/Sauce, the Other with SeafoodAlong the Highway from Hongcheon to SeoraksanOur View in SeoraksanOne of the Typhoon Warnings we Received

    Through the Mountains

    7. september 2019, Sør-Korea ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    We take our time this morning and have coffee at the guesthouse before leaving. We then make our way in to Hongcheon for breakfast. While trying to find something we spot a barber, Richard has been wanting to get a haircut since we arrived. While he waits to be served I go to try and find somewhere to eat. I find something with the typical mix of traditional tables alongside more-my-style tables and chairs. The menu is completely in Korean and the servers speak no English but with a combination of hand gestures, image search and my phone app that kind of interprets Hangeul but not brilliantly, I establish that they serve a choice of noodle dishes. I am unsure what exactly is served with the noodles.

    I return to the barber to see the final stage of Richard's haircut and razor treatment then we return to the eatery to see what we are about to have for brunch. It turns out to be a great meal and exactly what I needed after too many pastry and toast breakfasts. One is possibly a red bean paste based sauce, the other has a mix of mussels, octopus, mushrooms and fungi.

    We are now ready to hit the motorway headed for the mountains. The road is about 70km and at least half of that is tunnels. Total toll about $6. The sat nav takes right to the coast before heading into the Seoraksan National Park. Our hotel is a an Anglophile's dream complete with a London bus in the carpark. As we pull in to the carpark we receive another weather warning about the typhoon that's causing some bother on the west coast. We'll have to wait and see what the weather is like tomorrow before we decide what to do.    Les mer

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  • Lynne SchroederNanna and Opa do South KoreaReisende
    Our Hotel at Seoraksan
    Quirky Addition to the Carpark of the Kensington Stars HotelEntry Gate SeoraksanStupa Marking the Resting Place of the Ashes of MonksView from the Cable Car, SeoraksanSeoraksanCable Car Descending SeoraksanSeoraksanMineral Spring at the Temple, SeoraksanDetail of Gate at the Temple, Seoraksan

    Where Mountain Goats Dare

    8. september 2019, Sør-Korea ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    We can see the top cable car station from our table in the dining room. It was a windy night and we don't know what the weather will be like today. We decide to walk up to the National Park and see what's there. It's only a short walk to the National Park entrance gate where we pay an admission and are told that everything is closed because of the weather. We can go as far as the temple but that's it. We shrug and continue on in.

    The first area we pass consists of a group of standing stones, Stupa, which mark the resting place of ashes of monks. We then come across a small pagoda before coming to the base station for the cable car. Looks like it's running. Before I even open my mouth Richard has the tickets in hand and ten minutes later we are on our way up. We rise quickly; these peaks are dramatic and almost vertical. At the top station we discover we are at 800m elevation which seems astonishing since we can see the sea from here; after all we are only about 15 minutes up the road. We leave the observation deck and strike out on a trail for a few hundred metres that ends up at an open rocky expanse that falls away dramatically into the chasm beneath on one side. No guard rails here; just an obligation to keep your wits about you.

    We return to ground level then follow a path towards the temple. This follows and crosses the rocky stream in several places and passes a large bronze Buddha statue. The temple is ornately decorated and houses three golden Buddhas seated on a raised platform. There is a natural spring nearby that has had a font built over it so visitors can easily scoop water from it.    Les mer

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  • Lynne SchroederNanna and Opa do South KoreaReisende
    Interior of the Kensington Stars Hotel London Bus
    Cheoksan Foot SpaCheoksan Foot SpaCheoksan Foot SpaCheoksan Foot SpaFish Markets SokchoFresh Pan-fried Fish Lunch Sokcho

    (Not) Fitting in With the Locals

    9. september 2019, Sør-Korea ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    I ache. I actually took paracetamol last night because I ached so much and you all know how much I hate to take anything at all. So we are looking forward to checking out the Cheoksan Foot Spa and Hot Springs today. We check out the London bus in the hotel carpark on the way out, as bizarre as that sounds. It has a Beattles soundtrack on perpetual loop playing inside.

    It is a ten minute drive down the road and if you don't know what you're looking for you would never find it. Situated almost directly below a motorway overpass the Cheosak Foot Spa is free to get in, simply pay a small fee to use the towel and seat pad. There are two water courses, one has a smooth surface and the water is hot; the other is cold but the surface consists of concrete-set river pebbles protruding at just enough height to make it punishing to walk over. We are instructed to wash our feet before entering then blissfully soak in the hot water course, variously walking and just sitting with feet soaking. I attempt the cold water course but it's so brutal I can only stand it for a short time. Richard manages longer.

    Across the road is the Cheoksan Hot Springs public bathhouse. It is separated into male and female sections. There are three pools of different temperature, a sauna and a couple of dozen shower stations; some standing, some sitting. Stools are provided as well as bowls for dousing water over yourself. There are about a dozen women inside, many appear to be friends and take it in turns to scrub each others backs. Some have brought the entire bathroom of product with them and are attending to every aspect of bathroom ritual from leg-shaving to brushing teeth while seated on the stools. The warm pool is a very cosy 39˚C while the hot is a little too scalding for me at 43˚C. The cold has a pull-cable that opens a rosette of fire-hose nozzles of icy water from above. And it is all nude. I come out feeling very relaxed.

    We head into Sokcho as we have seen a place called Sokcho Eatery Town on the map and want to check it out. Whether it is because it is Monday or what we don't know but the location we pinpoint doesn't appear to have very much going on, so we go a bit further and find a small fish market area. Richard likes the idea of having crab but after choosing one which gets put on the scales, I ask how much and we decide perhaps not. We find another place and choose a fish. After a bit of hand signals and props we agree to have it pan fried. It's simplest. The side dishes or Banchan, are a bit different here and it's the first time we've been given wasabi as well. There is lotus root, a corn salad of some kind in mayo, sweet potato, and I am pretty certain one of the others was on the breakfast buffet this morning and labelled as balloon flower. The fish was delicious! And the meal was a third of the price of the crab!    Les mer

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  • Lynne SchroederNanna and Opa do South KoreaReisende
    Radishes, Sokcho Markets
    Sokcho MarketsChillis and Chilli, Sokcho MarketsHanbok Store at Sokcho MarketsKimchi at Sokcho MarketsSokcho MarketsGetting Across to Abai Village Everyone Pitches InAbai VillageUnder the Bridge at Abai VillageHotteok, a Snack Made of a Fried Small Puffy Pancake, Stuffed with Nuts and Seeds

    To Market, To Market

    10. september 2019, Sør-Korea ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    It's raining today but that's no reason not to get out. We decide to check out the markets. Sokcho Tourist and Fish Markets occupies a large city block with a number of criss-crossing laneways. On the ground floor is mainly food and some household goods, while on the first floor there are a number of clothing outlets and tailors, and on the lower ground floor is a large eatery section, mainly sashimi.

    We spend some time just wandering around inquisitively, I buy some thongs and Richard some shorts. There are many tantalising food options on offer but we're not hungry yet.

    We exit on the far side of the markets and head towards the port. Here there is a small hand-operated punt that transports people across to Abai Village. Hand-operated means if you want to get there quicker you pitch in and help. There are extra large hooks with handles available for passengers to use; basically the hook grabs the cable along the floor and you walk the length of the punt pulling it along then go back the other end and start over.

    Abai Village was originally known as the Displaced Persons Village and is where the remaining older citizens were located when the border was moved north turning this part of the country from North Korean territory to South. It is a little run-down, quaint in parts, not prettied up like the Hanok villages are generally. There are quite a few eateries all touting for business. I suspect prices to tourists will be over-inflated here.

    We return to the other side of the water the same way we came and this time are the only passengers so Richard is pulling his weight alongside the driver whereas on the way over there were others helping out. We dive back in to the markets and pick up a few items from various stalls; pig's trotter, fried slices of blood sausage, tempura prawns, a cup of sticky fried chicken pieces, and to finish off a Hotteok which is a kind of cinnamon sugar pancake stuffed with a seed and nut mix. We ate while watching a young man with a great voice sing one song then a kind of game show host followed up with some kind of audience participation thing and the upshot was that Richard was awrded another container of the sticky fried chicken pieces. Not really sure what that was about but it was fun!

    After a bit of a siesta back at the hotel we head down the road to the Cheoksan Hot Springs Hotel for another bathhouse session. This place is even more spectacular than yesterday's. Only slightly more expensive, it has double the number of bath pools and extra stuff like an open air bath, jet pool and neck shower. Following the lead of the women I saw yesterday, I have brought my little hotel bottles of shampoo and conditioner. I am still oblivious to the routine and protocol, if there is one, and simply choose the facilities by whim. I move from one pool to another before choosing a seated shower spot to wash my hair. I think I do a pretty good job of rinsing everything out. I then return to one or two pools, go upstairs to the open air pool which is glorious; surrounded by rock garden and pines with small birds hopping from rock to rock, there are two pools here, one with actual round boulders for seats; and then back downstairs to the water jet pool. I spend a few minutes letting the jets massage my lower back and the soles of my feet before moving to the neck shower. This pool has a ledge to sit on submerged about waist deep, with a powerful shower directed at the neck. After a few minutes the other woman in this pool is yelling at me in Korean and scooping water out of the pool. Horrified, I realise I have not rinsed my hair as thoroughly as I thought and am leaving suds in the pool. Bowing in supplication, I apologise in Korean (one of the few expressions I have learnt) scoop out some more suds and exit the pool. I head for the cold pool where a small child is playing with her mother. After I get the wobblies from the child I decide it's time to go. It's ok, I'm ready anyway. This has been an outstanding experience; I am incredibly relaxed.    Les mer

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  • Lynne SchroederNanna and Opa do South KoreaReisende
    Path Leading Uphill to the Naksansa Temple from the Carpark
    Naksansa Forest Fire Memorial Pavilion, And RainMemorial to the the Forest Fire that Devastated Much of the Naksansa Site Made from the Roof TilesPhoto of the Forest Fire Engulfing one of the Pavilions of NaksansaOrnate Drum and Enormous Bells, NaksansaDetail inside Gate, Naksansa TempleNaksansa TempleNaksansa TempleSymbol of Peace, Naksansa TempleGolden Buddha at Naksansa Temple

    On the Road Again. Heading South

    11. september 2019, Sør-Korea ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We have chosen the rainiest day we have had so far to leave Sokcho and start heading south, but we don't have far to go. I was aware there is a national holiday around this time, what I wasn't sure of was which days to travel and which to stay off the roads but I think I have it sorted. Basically Chuseok, which is a likened to Thanksgiving, is a time when Koreans return to their families. Tomorrow is likely to be the day when most people will be traveling so I have organised it so that we won't be. We will travel a little way down the coast and spend 2 nights then travel a bit further down right in the middle of the four day break when hopefully no-one will be on the roads.

    The road follows the coast most of the way and we pull in to take a look at one of the beaches. We walk along the promenade towards the lighthouse in light drizzle. Barely ten minutes or so south of Sokcho is a temple site I have earmarked. I am expecting to see a small temple, a pavilion and a buddha. We walk up the hill from the carpark through Korean red pine forest in the steady light rain to the entrance gate. At this point we begin to get a sense of the size of the site. A gravel path leads up a slight incline towards a hilltop compound where among other pavillions and structures the bell pavillion sits. Beautifully ornate it houses a huge drum and two large bells which are roped off from public access.

    At this point a slight detour leads to a small memorial to forest fires that decimated many of the original structures (most have been rebuilt) including three mounds built solely from the roof tiles.

    Continuing along the path leads to the large standing Buddha. Here there is a smaller bell that for a small donation you can ring. Descending beneath the lip of the hilltop there is a submerged temple where when kneeling you can look up at a 45 degree angle through a glass ceiling to see the full figure of the Buddha above.

    We are now making our way down towards the cliff edge but first the pavillion housing six seated golden Buddhas, three either side of the centre-piece, a radiant, standing, multi-limbed being. There seems to be almost a hint of Hinduism about this temple from the swastika on the outside of the building to the carved stone plinths surrounding the outside with elephants at the base. None of these symbols seem very Korean to me but what would I know. A few more pavillions and a lotus pond later and we reach the small pavillion on the cliff edge. An absolutely stunning site, I'm glad we made the effort to visit.

    We are on the look-out for somewhere to have lunch when I ask Richard to count up how much cash we have left. Not enough for lunch, we search for an ATM. Find one, doesn't work. Find another, doesn't work. Ask someone who says we need a bigger town. ! Huh?

    Ok, we are headed for Gangneung so we will try there, otherwise we are going to be living off the credit card. We find a group of shops with American brands and ask. No ATMs around here. A helpful customer with a few words of English sends us 10km further on and instructs us to look for an E-mart. We spot an ATM booth on the same block as an E-mart. The ATM again does not work. The E-mart has no ATM. I go into the bank branch attached to the ATM and the young woman sends me across the road to another convenience store. Success! Thank god! We can eat, yay!

    We decide to find the hotel and check in first. We are located in a beachside area with a bunch of small hotels in a strip much like any Aussie coastal resort town. Down the road there are a bunch of eateries and we find one doing the similar noodle dishes that we had a couple of days ago, this time the seafood one is all in the shell, mussels, clams and octopus. So delicious.    Les mer

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  • Lynne SchroederNanna and Opa do South KoreaReisende
    Gyeongpo Beach, Gangneung
    Photo Point Gyeongpo Beach, GangneungThe Skybay Gyeongpo Hotel, GangneungView from the Bar of the Sky Bay Hotel GangneungCool Outdoor Furniture, GangneungPyeongchang Winter Olympic Mascots, GangneungLunch, Bulgogi StewOur Rental BikesMemorial to the Women Left Behind After Their Husbands Were Killed by the JapaneseLakeside Figurines Gangneung

    Beach and Bikes

    12. september 2019, Sør-Korea ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    The hotel we are in is simple but basic. Breakfast is included but consists of bread and a toaster, cold hard-boiled eggs and strawberry jam. No butter. With that you can have orange juice and filter coffee, no sugar. It will do.

    We then head off for a walk along the beach towards the massive twin tower hotel we have seen from a distance. The entire length of the beach is edged with a boardwalk which makes walking very comfortable and pleasant. As we get nearer to the main section of beachfront we see eight women spread across the width of the sand walking north with a long pair of tongs and a large plastic bag, picking up rubbish as they go. The beach is pleasant, there are a number of the photo spots seen every in Korea, frames against a backdrop of some sort. Two of these appear to feature what we guess are local celebrities, perhaps TV soap opera actors, to have your pic taken alongside.

    We venture inside the Sky Bay hotel for a sticky and head on up to the top floor where there is an infinity pool alongside a bar and restaurant. After sitting for a while no-one comes to take a coffee order so we leave. Across the road is a large lake and alongside is a huddle of bike hire shops offering everything from the canopied four-seater family option through to scooters, regular bikes and electric assisted models. We find a place to have coffee attached to one of these and while happily relaxing with our cuppas talk to the lady about rental rates. We decide to return later in the day. First off lunch and siesta.

    We find a great place for lunch just around the corner from where we had dinner last night. We choose the pork bulgogi stew and with the accompnaying rice and side dishes find that one meal shared is plenty.

    At the arranged time we front up at the bike hire place and collect two electric-assisted bikes. The lake circuit is really lovely. There are sculptures along the way at some places, bird-watching hides at others and a huge lotus pond with a series of boardwalks meandering through the middle. All bar a few of the flowers are finished leaving the large seed pods in their place.

    For dinner tonight we find one of the famous but elusive chicken and beer haunts I have heard so much about. It was nice, it was too much and now that we have had it we probably don't need to have it again.    Les mer

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  • Lynne SchroederNanna and Opa do South KoreaReisende
    Boardwalk at Gyeongpo Beach, Gangneung
    JeongdongjinLittle Train Ride at Jeongdongjin BeachJeongdongjin Beach with Photo PointI Have No Idea What This IsSun Cruise Resort from the BeachSun Cruise Resort, JeongdongjinSkywalk at Jeongdongjin Sun Cruise HotelSimgok Port Just South of Jeongdongjin Beach

    Overnight in Crab Territory

    13. september 2019, Sør-Korea ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Yesterday was the first day of Chuseok which runs through until Sunday. It is supposed to be a time where korean families return to their homes to spend time together. So I figure the best days to travel are the days in the middle when traffic theoretically should be at its lightest. We don't need to check out until 11:00 so Richard heads foe the beach and we meet up for coffee before heading off.

    We head for a seaside hotel resort that is so insane we must check it out. This is built in the shape of a cruise ship and situated on a headland in an otherwise very pretty township. We stroll around the beachside park ond over to the beach then decide to head on up to the Sun Cruise Resort. First you pay to park, then you pay to enter so we plan to spend a bit of time here. There is an observation deck on the 9th floor and a revolving restaurant on the 10th. We decide to chill with a couple of iced teas while watching the outside literally go by. This is a "cruise" I could do! Not stuck at sea for days on end and you can come and go as you please.

    Returning outdoors we explore the small sculpture park before investigating a small cliff-top lookout. This looks down onto a glass deck extending out over the sea. There are steep steps down to reach it and a queue of people waiting to go out onto it as it is only one or two people at a time, so we decide we are happy to observe from above.

    We return to the village to check out lunch options. We think that we may be prepared to splurge and try the crab the region is famous for. One look at the menus and we know this place is way out of our price range and we decide to head down the road to somewhere a bit less touristy.

    The next town we find exactly what we are looking for. Simgok is a small fishing port village with one claim to fame. A man-made cliff-side waterfall marks the start of a scenic coastal trail. There are two or three eateries and all are traditional style seating, so we princesses are forced to suck it up. We order a fish stew which comes to the table in a cast iron pot and placed over a burner. Again, as before, one meal with rice and accompaniments is plenty for the two of us.    Les mer

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  • Lynne SchroederNanna and Opa do South KoreaReisende
    Uljin
    Lotus pond, UljinUljinUljinLook at this guy's sound system!Photo stop along Crab Coast between Uljin and GyeongjuCrab Coast between Uljin and GyeongjuDoran Doran Guesthouse, GyeongjuThese balloons covered in fairy lights look a bit alien, Silla Kings Festival, Gyeongju

    More Coast

    14. september 2019, Sør-Korea ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    I am waking much earlier than Richard most mornings and today I decide to go for a walk before he wakes. The hotel overlooks a large lotus pond with an easy path surrounding it. There are a small number of lingering blooms clinging to the last warm days. On the far side there is a small war memorial containing three small planes next to a children's playground. A little further on is a small hill topped with pines encircling a pavillion. I take a short detour returning to the hotel to see if there is anywahere nearby for breakfast. Answer: not much. Richard and I return a bit later and end up with convenience store pastries and coffee.

    Today will take a bit longer to reach our destination but should still only take about two hours. We plan to take a meandering route hugging the coastline and if the opportunity allows, Richard will test swimmability.

    Our destination is Gyeongju, a historical town which was once the centre of the Silla empire and is now World Heritage listed. We are staying in a traditional hanok house very close to some of the many historical sites. What we don't realise is that there is a festival happening and traffic on our street is at a total standstill. We park where we can and will retrieve the car later.    Les mer

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  • Lynne SchroederNanna and Opa do South KoreaReisende
    The Cheomsongdae; Astronomical Observatory dating from the 7th Century
    Gyerim Forest, GyeongjuSentinel In Front of Ornate GateLovely Garden Entry, GyeongjuMap of Tombs Park, GyeongjuA dark take on the traditional house styleApparently a good meal is judged by the number of banchan or side dishes. This one had 16 plus riceInside Tombs Park, GyeongjuThe Famous Flying Horse of Gyeongju

    Walking Where Kings Lay

    15. september 2019, Sør-Korea ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    I am up before sunrise and take off with my camera to explore. We are located across the road from a number of large mounds which are ancient burial tombs now set in park-like grounds. My walk takes me into a small forest and out the other side onto the street further along from our guest house.

    After breakfast Richard and I repeat my walk of this morning and this time also dive in to the old laneways that weave between the traditional houses. I have discovered that one of the symbols of the town is a horse figure so I am on the lookout for this as a figurine to add to my horse collection. So far no joy but I sure I'll find it somewhere.

    We find a lunch spot across the road from the Tombs Park. This is up there as possibly the best meal of the trip. A dish of fried thin pork strips along with a broth, possibly miso but this one is actually quite nice, and 16 side dishes plus rice. Absolutely delicious!

    Richard heads back to the room and I go in to see the Tombs Park, a large park with around 20 burial mounds, one of which has been excavated and restored so that you can enter and view the burial chamber. I approach a window to pick up a guide and end up with my own personal tour guide.    Les mer

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  • Lynne SchroederNanna and Opa do South KoreaReisende
    Yongdamjeong DescriptionEntrance to YongdamjeongYongdamjeong Temple PavillionLighting an Incense Stick at Yongdamjong Temple near GyeongjuYangdong VillageYep, him againRetail pedestrian quarter, Gyeongju

    In Search of a Horse

    16. september 2019, Sør-Korea ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    My walk this morning takes me past the covered bridge. Yes! There is a covered bridge. I have only ever seen the Ponte Vecchio in Florence and am only aware of the covered bridges in the US so I am keen to see it. I arrive early enough to capture it as a silhouette against the eastern sky.

    Today we decide to go further afield. Our host has given us a couple of suggestions so we head out with our maps and sat nav to find them. The first is described on the map as Holy Ground. We head up the valley for about 10 kilometres and after parking, set out on foot through gently ascending gardens alongside a running stream. We are about to turn back as my legs are starting to protest when we spot a small bridge ahead through the trees. Only a little further on there is a pavilion set against the forest backdrop. Such a tranquil place.

    The next spot on the map our host had said is beautiful. Her lack of English and my lack of Korean had limited the description to this solitary comment so we thought we'd check it out since it was nearby. We had no idea what we were looking for apart from "three-storey pagoda" and once again were about to turn back when I spot a sign directing towards exactly that. We turn into a very narrow street in a village that quickly takes us out the other side along an impossibly narrower road. At this point we are having serious doubta but there is simply nowhere to turn around. We are committed. It is only a few kilometres of nailbiting road, worrying whther our wheelbase is narrow enough not to land one side or other into a pond. We seriously scrape one side of the car along some fallen branches. At the end of the road we find thankfully a muddy, grassy patch large enough to turn the car around. As for the pagoda, there must be some cultural or relious significance that is completely lost on us. I have seen more impressive examples in garden centres. On our way back out I get out of the car to attempt to move the dead branches out of the way. These are evil branches with thorns along their length and in between the thorns is covered in small prickles. With Richard's help we shilft the branches enough to get the car through.

    Our next destination is an ancient village about half an hour away. Described as historically significant we envisioned something picturesque and huddled together. We found a large spread out site of mainly thatched and mud daub cottages intermingled with the now familiar hanok style dwellings. The heat of the the day combined with our lack of information or a guide of any kind led to our jaded interest. We stopped for cool drinks before I went off to take some photos but we found it difficult to muster much enthusiasm.

    We return to the same place as yesterday for the same lunch because we loved it so much then Richard heads off for a sieasta and I go in search of a horse. I walk up into the retail district and find nothing before stumbling on a small gift shop where the only items I find are a key ring and a fridge magnet. I am disappointed as it is such a spectacular horse and would be a wonderful addition to my other horses!

    Later in the afternoon we return to the bridge to see it in the glow of sunset. Across the road is a nice spot to have a couple of beers.    Les mer

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  • Lynne SchroederNanna and Opa do South KoreaReisende

    On the Road to Busan

    17. september 2019, Sør-Korea ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Today we are heading for our final destination before heading home. We have three nights booked in Busan, Korea's second largest city.

    We stop by the National Museum of Gyeongju first, our final attempt to find a horse. Entry to the museum is free and it is a worthwhile diversion but no horses here either.

    The trip from Gyeongju to Busan is only about an hour so I plot a course to Haedong Yonggung Temple in the Sat Nav as it is only a short detour and will be easier to reach on the way than setting out as a day trip once we get there. The temple is set right amongst the rocky cliff-face above a jagged rocky inlet with a small blow-hole. Prayer bowls have been placed in the water for people to throw coins watched on by various deities. There is also a submerged grotto dug out of the rock beneath the temple where worshippers can light candles.

    Leaving the temple and heading for the hotel we are grateful for the Sat Nav but still need the assistance of at least two phone apps to locate it successfully. What the hell did we do before technology? And I'm actually okay at reading maps. We settle in to our room, which is fairly small and basic, before heading out to find something to eat. We choose a place with a well-priced menu that appears to do dumplings and noodles, and have yet another new dining experience. Cold noodles. Apparently this is a thing. They are very tasty but of course I do prefer my noodles with some level of heat so I may not be rushing out to have it again.    Les mer

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  • Lynne SchroederNanna and Opa do South KoreaReisende

    Getting Chilled and Getting High

    18. september 2019, Sør-Korea ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    This our last day with the car. I have established that it is 30 minutes by car or an hour by train to get to Spaland, and it's on our list. One or two other items look like being left off though. Spaland is in a shopping centre which makes it all seem a bit weird right off. We get our key and locker number, proceed to the first set of lockers which are just for our shoes and then it is off to the separate change rooms and bath areas. We are given a set of pyjamas, shorts and shirt which are for the mixed gender areas, as well as two towels, then instructed on what to do and where to go. The ladies side has about a dozen baths of varying temperatures, some with water jets and some still. There is also an area with two saunas and a massage room which I did not discover until we were almost done.

    The mixed gender area has a whole bunch of steam rooms all of different themes and temperatures as well as areas to just lie down rest and an outdoor foot bath. There is also a restaurant and we decide to have lunch here. I have the "Hangover Soup" which has chunks of beef with veg in a tasty broth, while Richard has a seafood stew with abalone and mussels.

    After three hours here we are feeling very relaxed.

    On our way there in the car we came across a radio station with English speaking presenters. One was describing what he did on the weekend and mentioned the Songdo cable car. We decide to check it out. As it turns out it just happens to be located at one of the two beaches I had ear-marked as possibles and located only a few kilometres from our hotel. Perfect.

    The Busan Air Cruise is amazing. The base station is at the northern end of Songdo Beach while the top station is a mere 1.6km away at the top of a hilltop at the southern end. It takes you over the water for its entire length. We are rewarded with Chupa Chups when purchasing our tickets. We choose the cabin with the glass floor for optimal viewing. At the top station is a viewing platform as well as observation deck and a small sculpture park with, in addition to some cute fun characters, animated dinosaurs. The whole experience is a bit quirky and definitely fun.    Les mer

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  • Lynne SchroederNanna and Opa do South KoreaReisende

    There's Something Fishy About This Place

    19. september 2019, Sør-Korea ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    We returned the car this morning and got hit with a bill for damage. Strangely though it was a couple of scratches under the front not the ones along the side that caused the bother. Ah well, in all the years we have hired cars and all the kilometres we've traveled in them this is the first issue we've ever had. So next stop is Busan station to book our train tickets back to Seoul tomorrow. Once that is taken care of we hop the Metro and head for Jagalchi Fish Markets, just three stops from our hotel.

    Apparently Jagalchi Fish Markets is the largest in Korea and there is an incredible array of all manner of seafood, most of which I recognise. We get talking to a stallholder about his menu and agree to return later for lunch. Not only is Jagalchi the largest fish market in Korea, it's also right alongside streets and streets of homewares markets, toursit markets and art and craft markets, as well as stores. Still haven't found a horse. Lots of elephants the presence of which in Korea is dubious I'm sure, but no horses. I manage to pick up a few gifts for the family though so all good.

    We return to "Lucky's, An Honest Restaurant", as claimed by his business card, and treat ourselves by electing to have the lobster. Richard chooses his victim and then we wait while soaking up the sights and sounds around us, for it to be delivered to our table ready to eat.    Les mer

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  • Lynne SchroederNanna and Opa do South KoreaReisende

    Last Days - Winding Up the Trip

    20. september 2019, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    We took the express train from Busan to Seoul. It only took two and a half hours from the south eastern corner of the country to the north western corner. Once again, there were lots of tunnels but also spots of agriculture and more huge clusters of apartment buildings. We changed to the metro in Seoul for the trip out to Incheon and our final night in South Korea. The hotel was located right across the road from the metro station and in a complex with a number of eating places around. We had chicken and beer as a late lunch and then later that evening found a dumpling place around the corner for a snack.

    Our flight next morning was at 10:15 which meant getting the 7:00 shuttle. Breakfast started at 6:30 and we were first in line when the doors opened. We checked in to discover that we would not be able to re-enter Vietnam as our visa was only for single entry. Damn! I mis-interpreted "valid for thirty days" to also mean "multiple entry". I would need to cancel our accommodation which was only a $30 short-stay (yeah, I know, sounds real dodgy right? Rooms by the hour??) We would just have to utilise the sleeping pods and lounge chairs at Ho Chi Minh instead.

    It started to rain when we arrived at Ho Chi Minh until several hours later we were watching a full-blown tropical storm from the safety of the airport terminal. I decided to have a massage which I had been knocking back since the Sri Lanka trip but it was a good way to spend some transit time. Richard made use of the sleeping pod which was more than a pod as in there was standing room and floor space.

    We landed in sydney an hour earlier than expected and with an easy run through customs and immigration we were home by 10:00.    Les mer

    Reisens slutt
    22. september 2019
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