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The Festive Evening
13. September 2017, Port en Dro ⋅ 🌧 17 °C
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On Foot in France Reisender
Character and Infrastructure
13. September 2017, Port en Dro ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
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On Foot in France Reisender
Carnac Plage to Paris
14. September 2017 in Frankreich ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
Last night in Carnac Plage, rain continued through dinner and the late evening. Our last dinner with this group was held in a very small, classy, family restaurant right on the beach. Madame, the owner, orchestrated the service and selected the menu with Annie. Once again over-the top-excellence.

We begin with a Champagne toast. Annie thanks us and we thank her profusely. Lots of hugging goes on and many kind words. Then:

A Sancerre. A dark Burgundy. L'eau Minerale

An amuse bouche panna cotta with a strange and strangely delicious mix: beet custard on the bottom, raspberry custard on the top. Presented in a wildly modern handmade glass.. An odd combo that was both totally delicious and totally unexpected. But of course...

Next, poached lobster. After that turbot. Each served in a puddle of sauce that I can't describe with any phase other than luxurious. Bill says otherworldly. Either way, we are in agreement.

Silence has fallen around the table. There is no conversation only the occasional moan. And then dessert. We eventually totter off to our hotel. It is very late.

The morning brings breakfast and farewells. Annie is tearful as are a few others. It's been exactly the treo we had hoped for with a great your leader and good companions. No quitters, even on the worst of the bad weather days. And no whining either.

Still, everyone is heading somewhere else now. Bill and I take the high speed train to Paris and a cab from Gare Montparnass to our b&b which is located near the Opera Garnier in the 9th arrondisement north of the Seine. It's a slow taxi ride because it's a nice day and the streets are filled with people. Traffic is terrible.Weiterlesen
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In the 9th Arrondissement
15. September 2017 in Frankreich ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C
Late Thursday we finally arrive at our b&b in the 9th Arr. on Rue de Poissioniers. Our host rushes out to the street to get us just as we are searching for a doorbell to ring.

The stores on street level are not reassuring - a hardware store and an Indian restaurant. Hmm - perhaps this was a bad idea. But then voila! Our host, Jean Etienne, bounds up the first flight of stairs with my suitcase and Bill follows.

The host's apartment is beyond charming! It is filled with antiques but not too many. The lighting is both contemporary and generous. Our own wonderful en suite room awaits. Lovely, contemporary, brand new bath. A similar design spirit at work. Light filled, with four floor to ceiling windows looking over some gardens. It's a large corner room on the back side. Street noise is zero. Later we discover a hot pot for tea, extra water, cookies, maps, etc.

We are amazed, happy and we feel very lucky indeed. Now to explore the neighborhood!Weiterlesen
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Quartier Pietons
15. September 2017 in Frankreich ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
Jean Etienne counsels us on neighborhood dining. There are lots of choices very close by he says. What he fails to tell us is that the streets are limited to pedestrians. It's wonderful...no cars, no motorcycles.

Within one block we turn right and there are endless rows of casual restaurants with sidewalk seating and NO cars. When did this happen in Paris?

Needless to say we are thrilled. We take our time checking out the possibilities which are global (sushi anyone?) but predominately French. Bill is drawn to a specialty beer place. When we get there to order, it is filled wall to wall with young adults - and us.

We get a very nice IPA (#7 on the menu) and split it. Then - on to a local cafe that is stuffed with young adults - and us.

We think we are the only Americans. The Parisiens are happily and noisily enjoying their evening. A salade nicoise and glass of red wine for me. Bill has another beer and a plate of pasta with a terrific mushroom sauce. We are happy and tired. Although the beat goes on at the Cafe du Centre, we retire to our wonderful suite and collapse.Weiterlesen
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All Around the Block
15. September 2017 in Frankreich ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C
Friday begins with a very nice breakfast. There are four other guests but they are finishing their petite dejeuner and leaving. We enjoy a good start to the day and a chat with Jeanne Etienne who wants to make sure we have a good 'programme' for the day. We do, so we set off around 10 and head toward the Seine across the Pont St. Michael to Notre Dame, majestic and familiar at the same time.

There's a young couple in the plaza posing for their wedding photos. They have a make-up assistant, a photographer and a 'producer' of sorts who holds the lighting panel. They've also hired the guy who feeds the pigeons. The birds flock to him and then he moves over to put crumbs in the girl's hand. The pigeons swarm all over her dress. Later he drops bread on the groom's head. The groom picks up the girl, the birds cover them both and swirl around them. She is wearing excellent sparkly shoes and the are smiling together. A real Hollywood moment on video. Really charming to watch them.

Later we visit Hotel de Dieu, a 14c hospital now serving the poor of Paris. I stayed there six years ago in their hotel for families of patients. When the rooms are not full, they will rent to tourists. A great address to have on the I'lle de la Cite..

We stay on our feet all day exploring the Latin Quarter, The institute of the Arab World designed by Jean Nouvel (very modern, good view from the roof). Then back over the bridge to the new Opera de Bastille, then home. Nous on fatiguee en extremis.

Pasta for dinner in the 'hood, served by a guy from Palermo. He's funny and nice and loves it that Bill orders a beer. The servings are pretty robust, as is the shared salad. We can't finish everything so we just head home and pass out.Weiterlesen
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On Foot in France Reisender
Journees European du Patrimoine
16. September 2017 in Frankreich ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
Are we lucky or what? Today and tomorrow, France celebrates national pride by offering free entry to many of the city's museums, private homes and government buildings. Many of the buildings are normally closed to the public.

Once again we start across the Seine; we are heading for the Musee de Cluny. It's small and not well known so we hope there will not be a line. As we pass the Concierge and Notre Dame, tourists are lined up around the block and security is heavy. It's raining too. Ugh. We exit on the left bank and head to the Cluny. No line, no charge. It is a perfect jewel to visit.

We had planned a Paris Walks tour but it's raining again so we skip it. We take a break for lunch and hot tea. Of course the sun comes out. So we walk toward the Louvre.

On the way we stop at the former bank of France, but it's closed except for a sculpture in the court yard. It's a huge tangle of aluminum tubing as tall as the walls. It thunders like an earthquake, it also moans, squeals and chirps. To our amazement, it also smokes up a storm, huge clouds of smoke billowing in the courtyard. Wow. It represents a very earnest message about climate change. Wow. Again. Mesmerizing.

We head back across the river and the whole scene changes. The Louvre is also free today; everyone in Paris, every bus, taxi and car is trying to enter at the pyramid. Eek! We move away quickly, or at least as fast as we can in the massive amount of traffic and humanity.

Home again, we put up our feet. Our wonderful host, Jeanne, had left a bottle of rose for us, along with a plate of Chanter a is melon. It's very nice as an aperitif and special because it's so unexpected.

Later we head out for dinner and find that the famous Frenchie's is right around the corner! Quelle surprise😊. It's closed...on a Saturday night??

We find a different spot and we're happy to crash once again by 10.Weiterlesen
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It's Sunday in Paris
17. September 2017 in Frankreich ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C
We meet a newly married couple at breakfast. They are from Ghent celebrating their recent marriage. They speak excellent English and are very nice.

Our host has made a warm rhubarb crumble. It's delicious. All of our breakfasts have featured something special -apple tart, a warm brioche - plus the fresh croissants , fruit, yogurt, two or three cheese selections. Whew it is more than anyone can eat. We are worried about the quantities left over but we do our best before pushing away from the table. We rarely want or need lunch.

For the afternoon, Bill and I have tickets for the renovated Picasso Museum - which we are anxious to see.

Patrimony Days continue and there are lots of people out on the streets including tourists, families and shoppers. The sun is out! It somehow feels like a holiday.

We accidently discover the Museum des Arts and Metiers on the way to the Picasso and it's free so we go in to check it out. A most surprising place that has gathered together the early instruments and inventions of the scientific era. They are sorted by category and in chronographical order from sextant to computer. It's more interesting than it sounds and we are mesmerized.

Then on to the Picasso. We spend a couple of hours and then move on. The renovation has erased virtually all the charm of the former building. Most probably it is better for the artwork; nevertheless, something has been lost.

Once again we return home needing a good sit-down. Jeanne Etienne pops up from somewhere to say there is a half-bottle of champagne awaiting us. Goodness, how delightful!

After all he says, it is our 'last night' in Paris. Ahh. As if that explains his generosity and warm welcome!

We are smitten with this neighborhood and our accommodations. It's been a wonderful stay.Weiterlesen
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Ende der Reise
17. September 2017