Positano and Beyond

We began the day by driving down the Amalfi coast. I had no idea of the spectacular scenery we would find. Towering mountains fall right down into the sea. The coastal road hugs a tiny ledge that often rises 2000 feet above the water of the Mediterranean Sea. Massive cliffs rise vertically out of the ocean to a crest another thousand feet above us. The coastline here is even more magnificent than the California road traveling from Carmel down to Big Sur. We stopped in Positano at a wonderful family restaurant called Constantino’s. Our five course meal started with a Caprese salad, continued with a pizza course. This was followed by a pasta course consisting of cannoli, tagliatelle, manicotti and a wonderful cheese filled crêpe. The meal ended with lemoncello cake followed by a small shot of the beverage itself.

The scenery became even more magnificent as we swung back-and-forth on switchbacks. We went into higher mountains with terraces for growing white grapes, lemons, olives, and a host of other agricultural products. The terrain looked as though a giant accordion has been thrown down the mountainside. Each new turn revealed another mountain with hundreds of terraces going up the side. Each terrace was supported by a thick retaining wall made of huge stone blocks. Each of these blocks had to be hauled up the mountain side, usually by donkeys. It must have taken an unbelievable amount of work over centuries to haul all of the stone necessary to build those retaining walls. The terrain is so steep that even today stonemasons in brickmasons use donkeys to carry their loads to the worksite. We took time to visit a resort that our travel agents wanted to investigate. It is the opulent San Pietro resort near Positano. Rates here start at €3000 per night. We also saw the lovely town of Ravolo that hosts a classical music festival every June.

At the far point of our trek we were delighted with the sites from the Villa Rufolo, an estate begun as a castle in the 13th century, modified by the Saracens around 1500, and completely renovated in the 19th century. The estate belonged to a cousin of the pope, a nobleman who essentially ruled the Amalfi coast. This building originally reflected an unusual balance between Norman, medieval, and Saracen styles. However, the major renovation in the 19th century incorporated some romantic fantasies which upset that balance. Nevertheless, the house and watchtower are interesting, and the gardens are stunningly beautiful in their springtime colors.

We returned to our hotel after a long day, said good-night to a bejeweled Vesuvius and dropped into bed.Read more