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Angelaska
  • Chuck Cook
  • Glenda Cook

Angelaska

Way up North to Alaska with our kinfolks. Read more
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  • Trip start
    May 14, 2024
    Angelaska
    Tribute to Butch OhareChicaco's Oldest Resident

    That Toddling Town

    May 14, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    The lyrics of an old song declare that Chicago is a toddling town. I’m not sure it toddles, but it is certainly an interesting place. For example, when we went for lunch at a Mediterranean Restaurant here in the airport, I heard Spanish, an Arabic dialect and several other languages. I heard very little English, except from one woman seated at our gate who said that she was from Chicago. From her accent I would swear she was from the southern Appalachian Mountains. This city is as diverse as they come. It is remarkable. My only complaint is that the coffee concession at the airport is not diverse. Starbucks has a monopoly on the coffee shops at O’Hare. There must be 20 coffee shops in the airport, and all of them are marked by pictures of the green lady. The hot coffee was an excellent ending to the chilled chicken salad I had for the midday meal. Randy and I will go to McDonald’s in a minute to grab a bag of burgers for our evening meal on the airplane.

    While we were getting our burgers, I passed a memorial to Lt. Butch O’Hare, the first recipient of the Navy’s Top Gun Award, which was awarded in 1942. It features an actual Grumman F4F Wildcat. As a tribute to him Chicago named its airport O’Hare Field. He and a colleague developed a maneuver called the Thach Weave, which rendered the Wildcat as an effective opponent of the superior Japanese Zero fighter aircraft. We also passed the skeleton of a dinosaur peering down at the travelers in her airport. I didn’t see any identification, so I assume she was one of the first residents of the Windy City.    Read more

  • Angelaska
    At La Quinta Inn & Suites, AnchorageOur Room at La Quinta Inn

    Arrival in Alaska

    May 14, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 52 °F

    Just before our airplane landed in Anchorage, we flew over the spectacular Wrangell-St. Elias mountains. Angela was enraptured. Our Boeing 737 was high enough to allow me to see the whole expanse of a 70-mile long glacier. One tidewater glacier lay below us looking like a tiny white carpet, and in the fjord at its base floated a cruise ship with passengers admiring the frozen giant. We’ll be doing the same thing in a couple of days, but now it is good to rest, refresh and prepare for the scenic train ride down to Seward tomorrow. At about 8:30 pm, we finally arrived at La Quinta Inn in Anchorage.Read more

  • Angelaska
    Monument to the Past
    Ready to Ride the RailsTicket Station Exudes Aura of HistoryEnjoying the Observation CarAlaska Roasted BrewOn the Way to SewardReachable Only by AirplaneThe Middle of Nowhere

    Alaska Railroad

    May 15, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 37 °F

    In most of the places I’ve lived railroads were like the frosting on a cake—nice but not essential. If one needed to get from point A to point B, there were several different ways to make the trip. In Alaska the railroad is still crucial. It was begun early in the twentieth century with excess funds left over from the construction of the Panama Canal. They started with some $7 million. Even today only 30% of the towns in Alaska are connected by highways, and of all the roads in Alaska only about 25% are paved. Some towns do not even have roads, and can be reached only by airplane or by rail. Here the railway is absolutely necessary. Cold weather erodes highways so that truck transportation is limited. Heavy loads must be transported by rail. Today we had the wonderful privilege of boarding a train in Anchorage and traveling down the scenic railroad path to Seward. The natural beauty here is literally breathtaking. On this clear day we saw snowcapped mountains, glaciers, a moose running through the woods, bald eagles and glorious braided rivers streaming down from melting glaciers. While on the train, we enjoyed a delicious breakfast of eggs, reindeer sausage, an enormous biscuit and locally roasted coffee. When we arrived in Seward Glenda and I felt as though we were coming home again. It has been only a few months since we were here, and we are ready to explore this place more deeply in the two days until we board the Celebrity Summit.Read more

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    Spruce Lodge

    May 15–17, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 46 °F

    For the next two nights our home will be the Spruce Lodge located just outside of Seward. Owners Brittney and John are native Alaskans who just bought this lovely hotel and have already begun expanding it. This rustic-looking exterior contains rooms that are simple, tasteful and very comfortable. Our room is a studio apartment complete with fridge and a little kitchenette. A second building is already going up, and a coffee shop on the premises has already been built. When we shared with Brittney a need for transportation on Friday, she was more than happy to assist us by offering a special run of the hotel’s shuttle into town. In addition to all of this, we have a wonderful view of spectacular Mount Baker through the window. I daresay that in the future when we come to Seward, one of our favorite places, we will certainly try to make the Spruce Lodge our home while we are here.Read more

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    A Family of Champions

    May 15, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    Mitch Seavey has won the Iditerod Dog Sled Race three times. He graciously opens his kennels to tourists who come to learn about this amazing sport. His father Dan was a lawyer from the Midwest. As a child Dan enjoyed the TV exploits of Sergeant Preston of the Northwest Mounted Police and his lead sled dog, Yukon King. He loved the show so much that he moved to Alaska and lived out his dream of becoming a musher. Dan’s son Mitch began learning the sport as a child, and now, after finishing first in three Iditerod races, he is considered to be the best in the world. This year Mitch’s son Dallas entered the contest. When his lead dog became unable to compete, Mitch loaned Dallas his own lead dog, and Dallas won the 2024 Iditerod. This grueling race covers a distance equal to that between Miami and Washington, D.C. It is held in deep snow and temperatures that fall to -40° F. The Seaveys are a family of champions.

    Since we have visited the kennels of several of the Iditerod mushers on our visits to Alaska, we were shocked as we walked onto the grounds of the Seavey estate—shocked by its order and cleanliness. We saw a row of small wooden houses tall enough for a man to enter standing. Each one is equipped with water and electricity. These are the houses for Seavey’s dogs. Each dog has its own personality and preferences. The trainers know which dogs prefer to have a roommate and which prefer to be housed alone. The dogs receive the best possible care, but this doesn’t mean they are pampered. The skin of Alaskan huskies does better if it is never washed or brushed. The dogs often choose to sleep outside in the winter, because they prefer a temperature of about -10° F. They are athletes, and they are trained every day regardless of the weather. They receive a specially formulated high-protein diet and the most elaborate veterinary care.

    We got a glimpse inside this strange world of the Alaskan husky today, and as a part of their daily training, they pulled six of us tourists and a musher around a one-mile course. Hunter, our guide, gave us the most informative presentation about dog sled racing we have ever heard.

    We were honored today to visit with Seavey’s dogs. We got to pet them and thank them for the ride they gave us through a mysteriously beautiful Alaskan forest. We learned also that the real family of champions is not only the two-legged champions that drive the sled, but also the four-legged champions that pull it.    Read more

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    Just for the Halibut

    May 15, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    Hunter, our guide, responded to our request for a recommendation by suggesting Ray’s Seafood in Seward. Glenda and I ordered the blackened halibut garnished with a cilantro, avocado and lime cream sauce and served over cilantro rice with steamed broccoli. The fish was cooked to perfection, and the spices offered a nice burst of flavor from this mild fish. Our server Anastasia from Novosibirsk was perfectly attentive without hovering as we engaged in gentle conversation. We finished off the meal with a chocolate macadamia pie served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. The food was superb. After supper Spruce Lodge owner John picked us up in the shuttle and brought us back to our temporary home here in Seward .Read more

  • Angelaska
    Recycled Train Car Serves as Coffee ShopAngela and Randy2Orca with Babies1Spire Cove1We Four at Holgate GlacierMountain MenBreakfast at Resurrection Road House

    Hunting the Holgate

    May 16, 2024, Gulf of Alaska ⋅ 🌫 37 °F

    After a good night’s sleep at the Spruce Lodge, we all got up and packed our luggage for a transfer to Celebrity Summit to occur later in the day. The Spruce Lodge Shuttle took us a quarter mile down the road to the beautiful Resurrection Road House for a hearty breakfast. We were their first customers in the new season. On the way to the restaurant we passed a moose grazing on the side of the road. When breakfast was over we returned to the Spruce Lodge to load our luggage into the shuttle. The staff agreed to allow it to remain locked in the van until our pickup after lunch to take us to the ship. The shuttle dropped us into town around 10 am for our glacier and whale watching adventure starting at 11:15.

    As we were waiting to board the boat on which Major Marine Tours would take us on a fascinating tour of Resurrection Bay, Angela and I grabbed a delicious cup of espresso from a railroad car converted into a coffee shop. We climbed aboard the Spirit of Matushka and had good luck to start with as we encountered several pods of orcas. The so-called killer whales are not whales at all, but actually dolphins—the largest of the porpoises. They are extremely intelligent, hunting in packs and devising elaborate and inescapable strategies for securing food. Orcas are the alpha predators over a greater part of the surface of the earth than any other species. They are such good hunters that cetologists have documented several instances of animals of different species bonding temporarily to prevent orcas from attacking their young. The killers were out in force today guarding their own babies and teaching them orca ways. We also passed seals, sea otters and several bald eagles.

    The high point of our trip today came when we reached the beautiful Holgate glacier. This gleaming white tidewater glacier was showing off its iridescent blue crevices on this overcast day. Our thoughtful skipper turned off the boat’s motor for more than 5 minutes as we floated silently in front of the timeless behemoth. Soon we tourists stopped our chatter and we simply basked in the wordless glory of the artistry of the glacier and its Creator.

    After returning to Seward we scoped out several restaurants and decided to go back to Ray’s. I had sable fish in a Japanese miso sauce, and Glenda had a macadamia encrusted halibut garnished with a Thai red curry sauce. When dessert came, we all enjoyed a part of a piece of macadamia and coconut chocolate torte served with vanilla ice cream. Glenda insisted on paying for the meal. So did Angela. I suggested we settle it by a game of rock-paper-scissors. After our laughter about the childish game, I suggested that tomorrow night we could decide by a round of thumb wrestling. It turned out that Angela had never played the game before. I told her that Randy and I would show her how it was done. Only then did I glance at Glenda’s brother’s hands and discovered that they are huge. I swallowed hard, we locked fingers, and he had my thumb pinned in less than 5 seconds. Angela laughed hysterically.

    Miffed at my defeat, I told our waiter how we had decided about the bill, and he said, “Oh yeah, I know how to play that.”

    “Put out your hand,” I said as I grabbed his. He started this long litany about thumb wrestling as long as the Preamble to the Constitution. I had never heard it before. We sure didn’t use it when I was a kid on the west side of Charlotte. I didn’t know when the recitation would end, but as I sat there listening to him, the chant suddenly ended, and he instantly pinned my thumb.

    Oh, well. Dessert was delicious.    Read more

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    Mud Hut

    May 17, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 37 °F

    Glenda and I wanted coffee this morning so I decided I would just venture out walking and try to get some. I walked to a busy intersection not far from our hotel and found a little coffee shop called the Mud Hut. Four cars were lined up on one side and three cars were lined up on the other. I saw a door so I went inside and asked if is it were possible to get service inside or must one line up with the cars outside.

    The barista said, “You’ve got to lineup in your car.”

    I told the guy, “I just walked from the Spruce Lodge. I don’t have a car. Should I just stand behind these cars that are waiting, or can you serve me here?”

    He said “Stand behind the cars.”

    One vehicle moved about every five minutes, so there were seven cars all sitting there with their motors running. I stood there for over 20 minutes without reaching the window. The carbon monoxide started to get to me so finally I just decided I had enough and I walked back to the hotel.    Read more

  • Angelaska
    I just caught a fish THIS BIG.Feeling a Sea UrchinServicing the TanksRandy, Thoughtfully Considering Entering the Seward Axe Throwing CompetitionMonument to the Start of the Serum RunFirst Sight of Celebrity SummitWaiting in a Bakery to Board the Ship

    Preparing to Board the Ship

    May 17, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 41 °F

    We came into the town of Seward early enough today to have breakfast at Zudy’s, a restaurant that is housed in the old train station . Then we walked next door to spend an hour at the Seward Sea Life Center. This research facility takes care of injured animals found in the bays and inlets nearby. It’s also a center for research. Marine biologists and oceanographers from all of the world come here to study the unique maritime environment around Seward.

    We still had lots of time on our hands so we walked to Iditarod mile zero where the original serum run began. Seward was the closest ice-free port to Nome, where diphtheria broke out among the children in 1925. Vaccination serum was brought here by ship and was taken to Nome by mushers on dog sleds. The modern Iditerod dog sled race was first run in 1973, yet it incorporates sections of the original serum run route. We wandered down the lovely path leading to the ship terminal where Chris met us in the hotel van with our luggage. Our in processing on the ship went smoothly and now we are all learning our way around.    Read more

  • Angelaska
    Angela Finally Makes it to the Retreat

    Hubbard Glacier

    May 18, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 41 °F

    We became acquainted with the Hubbard Glacier several years ago when we first traveled to Alaska. Today she was out in all of her beautiful splendor. I’m glad it is an overcast day, because on cloudy days one can see that beautiful sapphire blue in the crevices of the face of the glacier. That color is not nearly so prominent on a sunny day. Today our captain took his time and worked his way through a field of growlers to approach the glacier more closely than he had been able to do so in the last few cruises. He rotated the ship 360° so everybody was able to get a good shot. We got several pictures of Angela and Randy on deck with the glacier in the background. The wonderful crew of Celebrity Summit were around with hot coffee, hot chocolate, and other beverages for those of us who were chilled up on the sun deck, taking pictures of the icy monster in front of us.Read more

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    Thar She Blows

    May 19, 2024 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 46 °F

    Our whale watching excursion was successful as we saw half a dozen adults and babies after leaving the dock near Juneau. I was especially pleased that I was able to get a video of a mother humpback whale and her baby as they went for a deep dive. As we were returning to the dock we saw a whale do a spy-hop. The only bad thing about today was the weather. The temperature was 42° F with driving rain and 15 mph winds.Read more

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    Mendenhall Glacier

    May 19, 2024 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 39 °F

    The Mendenhall glacier has already receded several hundred yards since we were here in 2012. Climate change is causing the glacier to recede even faster now, though glaciologists say that it will begin to grow again in another 30 or 40 years. The Mendenhall icefield feeds some 30 glaciers in the area around Juneau. This city, the state capital of Alaska, is not accessible by highway. Everyone coming here and all of the supplies must be brought in by ship or by airplane. This is a beautiful place with many nature trails. While Glenda went to the visitor’s center, Randy and Angela took a hike to the falls by the glacier. When Angela saw a sign about bears, she said their hike became a power walk. The visitor’s center was also a good place for us to get out of the rain.Read more

  • Angelaska
    Frozen FjordThe Only Bear Angela Will ApproachOur Dining Hall

    White Pass Railroad

    May 20, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 34 °F

    After thousands of Stampeders had already died in the Alaska Gold Rush of 1896, a group of enterprising businessmen decided to build a railroad up to the Klondike. There were two possible trails. One route, less steep but much longer, went up through White Pass. The other was a shorter and much steeper route that went through the Chilkoot pass. The businessman chose the shallower grade, and by 1898 there was a railroad carrying gold prospectors up through the White Pass north as far as the town of Fraser. Today we were able to retrace the path of the Stampeders as we rode the White Pass Yukon Railroad up into Canada and into the Yukon territory. The scenery was spectacular as the snow began to fall. Many majestic views escaped our cameras because we were traveling in clouds. Nevertheless, what we saw was magnificent.

    At midday we stopped at a beautiful lodge made of logs. Its walls were made completely of glass, inviting the majestic snowcapped peaks into our dining room. Although the dining room was not heated, its walls shielded us from the wind at least, and our jackets kept us comfortable. Our hosts served us a wonderful bowl of hot bison chili covered with cheese and a bun as big as a softball. We washed it all down with steaming coffee. After lunch Randy and I walked across the suspension bridge hovering 200 feet above the creek below. Rushing down from glaciers forty miles away, its sub-zero blue water barely escaped freezing. On the other side of the creek, we saw more exhibits about how the Stampeders built log cabins, preserved their food and survived the chilling winters of the Yukon.

    I encourage you to read the rest of the story of the Alaska Stampeders of the Gold Rush years. When they reached the Yukon, they still had another 550 miles to go before they got to Dawson City, where the gold had actually been discovered. That final distance had to be traveled by water. Prospectors needed to hire leaky boats or to build makeshift rafts. A significant number of the fatalities of the Alaska Gold Rush occurred when boats sank or rafts disintegrated in rushing frigid waters. Though the scenery here is magnificent, as recorded by such writers as Robert Service, most of us tourists here today spent at least a few pensive moments considering the foolishness, greed, tenacity and tragedy of the Alaska Gold Rush.
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    Thirty Whales an Hour

    May 21, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 45 °F

    This morning as we sailed into Icy Strait Point we went out onto the veranda outside our stateroom and saw probably 30 whales. Our excursion this morning was a whale-watching expedition onboard a small boat that traversed the waters nearby. Out in the strait we saw at least another 30 whales—males, females, mothers and babies—all around us. It is difficult to photograph a whale because as soon as you hear her spout, she shows her dorsal fin, and you realize you just missed the best part of the show. However, I did get some videos where we were tracking some whales swimming by us and I will include those in this entry. We also saw sea otters, seals, a bear, sea lions and puffins. Two bald eagles sat in the top of the tree and they were eyeing us curiously. This has been a fantastic day for nature watching and I think maybe seeing all of these wonderful animals scratched Glenda‘s itch for whale watching—for a while at least.Read more

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    Misty Fjords Magic

    May 22, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Misty Fjords was named because there’s almost always a constant haziness over the mountains. This is our third visit to Misty Fjords and on every visit the sun has been shining and the air has been clear as crystal. What rare luck! On the way out we passed two pods of transient orcas. An active bald eagle nest held two adults and one juvenile. Fishermen waited for halibut. Steller Sea Lions played in the water. Dall’s porpoises scooted through the inlet at 30 mph.

    New Eddystone Rock received its name when it reminded George Vancouver, Captain James Cook’s navigator, of the New Eddystone Lighthouse off the coast of Plymouth, England. When we were in that town we saw the foundation of that lighthouse. Its chiseled interlocking granite stones have been moved and reassembled in a traffic circle in front of the Plymouth Hotel. A historical marker relates its history.

    Most days the visibility is less than 100 feet. Each year this place gets more than 13 feet of rainfall. Today it was spectacular. One can easily understand why naturalist John Muir said of this place, “Misty Fjords is the Yosemite of the North.”
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  • Angelaska

    Ship to Shore

    May 24, 2024 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    The Port of Vancouver has the smoothest transition from ship to shore. Anywhere. As we stepped off the gangway, a customs official grabbed our declaration forms with no questions. Big signs directed passengers who needed to meet a bus to door A, a cab to door B, airport transportation to door C, Uber to door D. We went through door B hoping to find a taxi somewhere. Immediately a woman working for the port authority was right there asking me, “How many people are in your party?” I answered, “Four.” She asked, “Do you have luggage?” “Yes,” I said. “Go to station number 12,” she pointed. A cab was there to load us and our luggage and take us to the hotel.Read more

  • Angelaska
    View from Our Window
    The Butterfly Building, Home of a New FazioliThe DropHyatt Regency, Vancouver

    Visiting Vancouver

    May 24, 2024 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    Moving from the ship through Canadian customs to the Hyatt Regency in Vancouver was remarkably easy. Because the Hallmans had some checked luggage, we took a taxi cab the three blocks from the port to the hotel.

    It’s good to be here where we have reliable Wi-Fi again. Many of the dictation errors in my previous posts have been due to the fact that inadequate Wi-Fi connections prevented us from going back and making corrections. I know that the Alaskan town on the west coast is “Nome” not “gnome,” but talk -to-text hasn’t figured it out yet.

    Both Angela and Randy were a bit under the weather, so Glenda and I decided to venture out on our own. I wanted to see a building for which a custom made Fazioli piano has been built. We were surprised to find, however, that the building is not yet finished and the piano has not yet been installed. Glenda and I decided we would just snoop around a bit and we look a coffee shop. We found an excellent place nearby called “Beyond Coffee.” We both teared up when we realized that “What a Wonderful World” was playing in the coffee shop. That song has appeared so many times in our travels in interesting places. We once heard it being played on the square in Prague. What memories it evokes! What a wonderful message it conveys! Here in Vancouver we sat down at a table and happened to be next to a Chinese-Canadian couple. The woman was crying and we were afraid something was wrong, so we asked whether everything was all right. She said, “These are tears of joy. Our son developed a very rare auto immune disease about the time he graduated from high school, and he just called to say that the doctors have finally succeeded in reversing the disease.” For several minutes we rejoiced with them.

    Our kinfolks like burgers. We found a Red Robin restaurant, so we called Angela and Randy and asked them if they wanted to meet us for lunch. They came down. We had a great burger, and then Glenda and I went our separate ways. Glenda went back to a skin care store she found on Robeson Street, and I went back down to Canada Place to photograph the port we have used so often. Our ship, the Celebrity Summit, was still in port there, taking on new passengers as excited about their trip to Alaska as we had been. Now we have just returned to the hotel and all of our rooms are ready. It feels good simply to put my feet up while sharing with my friends the wonderful experiences we are having in Alaska and Canada.    Read more

  • Angelaska

    Dinner at the Mosaic Restaurant

    May 24, 2024 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    Because it is still raining outside, we decided to have dinner at the Mosaic Restaurant on the second level of our hotel. Randy and I had a delicious chicken-chili quesadilla, but more important than the dinner was the conversation we had with our server. I’ll call her Sophia to protect her privacy. She is from Greece, but because jobs are so scarce there, she came to Canada to work. She gets back home to Athens about four times a year. She has three children and a husband, but for the last four-and-a-half years she has been away from home. Her oldest girl is about to enter first grade, and Sophia is fighting to get her second child into pre-school. Her youngest daughter is only a year old, and she has already been rejected for preschool. The government policies relating to preschool education are tough in Canada. Sophia hopes to return to Greece to be reunited with her family soon.

    As beautiful as the natural wonders of Alaska may be, the things we love and remember about our travels are the wonderful people we meet--a Greek waitress in Canada struggling to support her family back home; a parent whose son was cured of a tragic disease. These are the things we remember.
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  • Angelaska

    The 49th Parallel

    May 25, 2024 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    After checking out all of the coffee shops in the area on the Internet, I decided to visit a coffee shop called the 49th Parallel. It happened to be located on the block adjacent to the Hyatt Regency, where we are staying. I ordered a cup of filter coffee and a cruller just for the fun of it, and also ordered a single shot espresso to check out their barista skills. Both cups of coffee were perfect. They had the same kind of fruitiness that I experienced in the coffee at Bold coffee shop in Asheboro. I think I have tasted enough different kinds of coffee now so that I can detect the difference between the kind of fruity coffee preferred by millennials. Generally people my age prefer a more robust coffee, one whose taste is described as chocolatey or nutty. I suppose one’s preferences are largely influenced by the type of coffee one tastes early in life. It was a beautiful coffee shop and it filled up very quickly. In fact, finding a seat was challenging when I got there, and by the time I finished my coffee finding a seat was impossible. I got my coffee and saw that no table was vacant, though some had empty chairs. I saw a two-seater with a young woman sitting alone, an empty chair across from her. I’m guessing she was a young professional woman on her way to work. I politely asked if I might use the unused chair. She unglued her nose from her phone to say quickly, “Certainly,” as though sitting across from strangers is common at the 49th Parallel. We shared not another word, and I saw this process repeated with every customer who was served after me. Soon my neighbor finished her brew and wordlessly got up to leave. By the time I left every chair in the place was taken, mostly by strangers sitting across from strangers. The next time I visit Vancouver I want to come here again. These baristas are seriously good.

    The staff of the Hyatt Regency has been excellent. They never miss a detail. They extended our checkout time to 1 PM, and then allowed us to stow our baggage in a locked room while we went out to visit Vancouver a second day. Because we had a flight that left in the evening we came back to the hotel and got our luggage for transportation to the airport. I don’t know how the people at the Hyatt Regency in Vancouver could’ve been more accommodating or hospitable. It’s a wonderful place to stay.    Read more

  • Angelaska

    Back Where We Started

    May 26, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    We just arrived home and it feels more wonderful than I can possibly imagine. All four of us had a bad cold by the end of the trip and now we simply need to rest. It was a great trip, a memorable adventure, but it is still very good to be home.Read more

    Trip end
    May 26, 2024
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