• Stuart Kilpatrick
Sedang bepergian
Agu – Sep 2025

Rail USA 2025

Sebuah petualangan yang berakhiran terbuka oleh Stuart Baca selengkapnya
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    🇺🇸 New Orleans, United States

    Parting of the ways

    Kemarin, Amerika Serikat ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    After nearly 3 weeks joined at the hip we went our separate ways this morning. G headed for the next-door jazz museum followed by a local market.
    I took my own private (well it was early Sunday morning) streetcar to the National WW11 Museum. A random choice, I didn’t even know it existed, but it had been strongly recommended by an American couple we had chatted to way back on the QM2. It was a quite astonishing museum, quite the most comprehensive display I have seen on WW11, albeit from a US point of view.
    On the way to the museum I couldn’t help but notice possibly the largest pothole I have ever seen. Like all things here it was just bigger than we have.
    Back to meet up at our hotel then out for a late lunch. Shared a burger and fries but needed our own cakes & coffees. Not been convinced by iced coffee before but when it is so hot as it is here I might be converted.
    This afternoon’s museum was a little strange. One complete floor covered the disastrous Hurricane Katrina and the other the slightly more photogenic Mardi Gras including the spectacular costumes.
    Speaking of silly outfits a local park was hosting a wedding photoshoot and the choice of suit/trainer combo for the participants caught my eye.
    Enjoyed chilling out listening to a busker, then passed Tennessee Williams house, numbered 632 and a half, on our way to Preservation Hall to hear some jazz. Pretty good it was too, although they didn’t allow any photos during the show.
    Did some wandering about the local streets before going back to finish our stack of Blue Moons instead of any food.
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  • City of New Orleans part 1

    13 September, Amerika Serikat ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    One of my bucket list items for this trip was a cruise on the Mississippi on board one of the paddle steamboats. Today was the day.
    Started with a trip on one of the streetcars. After much delay and queuing and handing over wads of money we got on board. Delighted to see it was called The “City of New Orleans” although not quite the same as the famous train. A few of these chug up and down for a couple of hours a time full of tourists. They stick a jazz band on to set the scene. And the thing is actually driven by the big wheel. All grand.
    A cafe for lunch with local dishes, jambalaya and shrimp chowder, followed by a not so local dod of a rather nice carrot cake.
    Walked back to the hotel via Bourbon Street, a rather touristy and very loud affair. Full of half-drunk hen parties taking advantage of the warm weather to wear not a lot.
    Dinner was another shared pizza, this time with a Greek salad in a vain attempt to introduce something remotely healthy.
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  • Half-way

    12 September, Amerika Serikat ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    17 days completed and 17 days to go after today.
    Checked out of our room at 7.35 for an hour trip to the rail station in order to be the recommended 30 minutes early for our 13 hour trip to New Orleans. The station was somewhat smaller than recent efforts. Not too surprising given that there seemed to be 2 trains a day. One going south, the other north. By contrast Atlanta Hartsfield airport is apparently the world’s busiest airport.
    One of the reasons why the train take 13 hours for less than 600 miles is it waits about 40 minutes at stations like Atlanta. The other reason is it just doesn’t go very fast, usually between 40 and 60mph, which means it is much easier to see things as we pass. Trouble is on this route there isn’t very much to see other than trees, sometimes swamp and trees.
    Arrived 30 mins early. An interesting journey across New Orleans on foot and bus in the dark. Only slightly concerning.
    Arrived at our apartment, back out to get vital provisions and G soon established with a Belgian “Blue Moon.” Result.
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  • More history

    11 September, Amerika Serikat ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    Sunrise always fascinates. Probably because I don’t see many. This one was from our room.
    Then down for breakfast. Not sure if I have seen such a public dress code for breakfast. Shame the food didn’t live up to the same standard.
    Walk, metro, bus and walk to get to the Atlanta History Centre, a bit out of town.
    The crowning glory was a recently restored cyclorama showing the Battle of Atlanta. I also liked the 1856 locomotive Texas, but then I would, I suppose.
    The museum cafe did a nice line in soups, a choice of 6, G chose a couple , together with a rather bizarre broccoli and tofu salad.
    Continued with a visit to Swan House, just under a 100 years old but designed to look much older.
    Pizza for dinner. Not a bad effort.
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  • Shaken and stirred

    10 September, Amerika Serikat ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Certainly shaken after a shoogly night sleeping somewhat fitfully. The highlight of course was the expected nocturnal visit requiring getting dressed while lying horizontally, descending from the top bunk, nipping along the corridor and return. Luckily only once was required. Reminded me of camping in my wee tent but being shaken throughout added a little something. No photos taken, thank goodness.
    I did notice that some of the ‘roomettes’ were equipped with their own cludgy handily placed beside the chair/bed. Not sure if they were an upgrade to ours or vice versa.
    For breakfast I had chosen the continental while G chose the omelette. Big mistake. Microwave reheating does not improve said omelette. Binned and my breakfast shared.
    8.30 arrival in a surprisingly small station in the sticks. Took an hour and a half to get the 4 miles to the hotel via a bus, metro and a further bus. Able to check in which was a real bonus. Showered and then out.
    Visited Martin Luther King Jr’s National Park. Included a film, a talk, visit to his church, where he preached and where his funeral was held, his birthplace and lots of clips of his speeches. Man that guy was a an orator. Incredible to think that all happened in my lifetime.
    Back to the hotel to chill out in our 10th floor room. Not bothering with dinner as lunch was quite late. Another one of those Philly cheesesteaks. Shared, I’m not made of money.
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  • Sleeper to Atlanta

    9 September, Amerika Serikat ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Checked out but left the bags and walked over to Arlington Cemetery to catch the famous Iwa Jima Memorial. Lots of white tombstones as expected. Seen plenty of them in France. But unlike the French ones these were simply for any Ex-servicemen and women, plus their partners and sometimes their children, no matter when or how they died. Not quite so poignant then.
    Metro back to The Mall and to a Museum of Modern Art. Not usually our thing but they had a Banksy on display. A little surreal to have to go to Washington to see one but that’s life. They were also showing the Basquiat that inspired him.
    Grabbed another shot of the Capitol as we passed as we were a little closer than before.
    Back to the Museum of American History and started with lunch. Cheap, sort of cheerful, and quick.
    One of the exhibits was the Julia Child’s kitchen used in her programs. Had never heard of her before the Julia & Julie film.
    Collected bags and caught a bus to the Union Station. Usual grand affair.
    Our first sleeper. The main windows are used when sitting, and for the bottom bunk. The top row are for looking out from the top bunk. The meal provided was a sort of airline meal. Not great but filled a gap.
    Not sure if any sleep will be had. Time will tell.
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  • Historic Washington

    8 September, Amerika Serikat ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Ironic that on the day I finally manage to persuade the FindPenquins app to let me upload more than 10 photos per footprint (thanks to Colin) I have exactly 10 photos to upload.
    Our accommodation is getting fancier. This one is on the same street as the White House, just 9 blocks along.
    First stop today (after G had bought some jewellery) was the Natural History Museum. One of the exhibits was the Hope Diamond which, luckily, did not appear to be for sale or G might have tried to continue spending. I say luckily not just because being 45 carats and one of the largest blue diamonds in the world might have put it outside our holiday budget but also it has a reputation for bringing bad luck to its owner. Better not bother then.
    The museum’s cafe’s lunch offering was not so impressive and didn’t justify a photo.
    Next stop was the Museum of American History. By luck we managed to get on a 75 minute whirlwind tour of the highlights. These things can be good or bad. This chap was very good. For at least a few days I now know more about the War of Independence, the War of 1812 (between the US and UK) - which I had never heard of at all - and the Civil War. Will probably return tomorrow if we have time.
    Lovely walk back afterwards past some sights, the US Capitol, Jefferson Memorial, Korean War Veterans Memorial and the Washington Monument.
    Dinner was a takeaway from a local Chinese in our apartment accompanied by very reasonable New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.
    Another train tomorrow.
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  • Next stop - Washington DC

    7 September, Amerika Serikat ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    Philadelphia Train Station is slightly more impressive than the Waverley. A couple of hours between one wet city and one sunny one.
    Regardless of who is in residence The White House is quite bonny.
    As I’m beginning to feel better my appetite is improving. Still sharing a single portion though. Today we had a half rack of ribs with potato salad.
    Visited the Museum of African Americans, somewhat sobering I would have to say, in quite an impressive building.
    The Washington Monument, Lincoln Memorial and the Mall were all looking fine.
    Equally impressive is our enormous apartment. No wonder Americans sometimes get a bit iffy about the size of European hotels.
    A Thai restaurant for 2 soups and a mixed starter finished off the day nicely.
    And I seem to have been able to wean myself off a paracetamol habit I was beginning to develop. Would be nice for both of us if I could get through the night without coughing regularly.
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  • Tramping the Streets

    6 September, Amerika Serikat ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Some random photos from the day - our hotel,
    the Benjamin Franklin Bridge almost next door,
    a street continuously occupied since 1713 which is considered pretty old here,
    the first US flag (replica!) , the home of the original seamstress who made it is a museum here, which we didn’t visit. There have been 26 subsequent versions as the number of stars keep having to be increased to match the number of states.
    G requested a visit to the Mutter Museum being an attraction dedicated to rare, odd and disturbing medical conditions, ie any number of skulls, skeletons, foetuses, joints, huge gallstones etc. Luckily photos weren’t allowed or this footprint would have taken a very nasty turn. We could have gone to the city’s premier cultural institution, the Philadelphia Museum of Art for only a few dollars more and I wouldn’t have the memory of a 40 lb uterine growth, or a syphillic penis to keep me from sleeping.
    We did still reach the Art Museum, too late to enter but just got G to pose with a local hero. Apparently the man appears in Rocky I and II climbing the stairs outside the museum. We duly queued to have our turn at a never-to-be-repeated photo opportunity.
    G had been beginning to fret about the absence of drink since landfall so when we chanced upon an Irish pub it wasn’t to be passed by. Softened up by a Guinness ‘we’ decided to go for dinner to a nearby pub/restaurant. Ordered 2 battered sausage and some loaded fries with a pint of lager for the lady. I know how to give a girl a good time.
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  • The Streets of Philadelphia

    5 September, Amerika Serikat ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Made a little more use of the breakfast than yesterday. Packed and checked out. Short walk to the rail station via the thrift shop to drop off some books.
    Strange system for boarding the train. We were sitting in the waiting room until they announced the platform. Apparently some categories would get early boarding, including the geriatric, but then , almost immediately, they announced boarding for everyone. Bit chaotic.
    Anyway there were plenty of seats on what was our first Amtrak train. Surprisingly small windows but at least the seats were properly spaced beside the windows unlike UK disasters. Only 1.5 hours to Philadelphia. Passed uneventfully.
    Took the subway to within a couple of hundred yards of our hotel. Definitely an upgrade to NY.
    Managed an early check in then out to find some lunch. Found a wee cheesesteak place. A local delicacy consisting of a baguette stuffed with small pieces of steak plus cheese, onions etc. surprisingly good.
    Walked along to the local visitor centre, queued up to the Liberty Bell and then had a pre-booked tour of Independence Hall where the Declaration of Independence and the US Constitution were signed. Back to hotel for more pills and a rest. Later walked to Chinatown for some dumplings, followed by ice cream.
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  • New York in a day

    4 September, Amerika Serikat ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Today’s breakfast would have been hard to swallow even without feeling dire. A miserable meal.
    Inspired by the talks on board we headed off to Central Park for some free sightseeing. Took the subway to the north end and wandered back through it. Really is the nicest part of New York. Grabbed our first hot dog and clam chowder of the trip. Probably won’t be the last.
    Then madam wanted to visit Tiffany’s.
    When we entered we asked the worthy where we could find eternity rings as G has taken a fancy to one. Whipped upstairs and seated with the sales girl sweet talking us and asking if we would like a drink before we could blink. H Samuel it isn’t. Shown some rings that looked pretty cheap and cheerful. She had a pretty good guess as to our budget and these were definitely out of the bottom drawer. Managed to get out before spending any cash so job done.
    Then on to Grand Central Terminus, a truly fabulous station. Even better as someone was handing out chilled cans of Heineken 0.0% as a promotion. Don’t mind if we do.
    Next to Macy’s for a look round. Big but empty. Don’t know how they keep it going.
    On our way back to our hotel we passed the rather more famous, and undoubtedly dearer, Chelsea Hotel.
    Couple of pieces of pizza for tea. No appetite.
    And hurrah, hurrah I am finally up to date with these footprints. Hallelujah, to bring in the Leonard Cohen connection with the Chelsea Hotel.
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  • Arrive in New York

    3 September, Amerika Serikat ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Had to take full advantage of what is likely to be our best breakfast of the trip even though it was at the most ridiculous time of 7am. Joined the queue to disembark at 8.20 and got through immigration by 9.20. Pretty much the only queuing we had to do on the whole voyage.
    Took the free (for us) ferry from Brooklyn to Manhattan then subway to our hotel.
    Been suffering the last day or so with what might be a fairly mild bout of COVID. Tried hard not to cough during immigration as didn’t want to get turned back.
    First stop after dropping our bags off was to a local thrift shop to get rid of my dinner suit, shirt and shoes. The fact that there was a local thrift, or charity, shop nearby gives a clue as to how upmarket our hotel was. Still cost £180 per night for one of the most run down hotels we have ever enjoyed.
    Lunch in Chelsea Market then walked along The High Line, a converted rail track.
    I thought Keira might enjoy the photo of the rather large pigeon that we spotted.
    Passed Penn station where our train to Philadelphia leaves from on Friday.
    Took the subway over to Brooklyn and walked back over the well known bridge. Walked down past Wall St to catch the (free) Staten Island ferry there and back. By then I was knackered so we didn’t bother with the planned trip up the One World Trade Centre. Back to the hotel before out for some Greek Souvlaki and Baklava. Very nice but I couldn’t eat very much.
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  • Last day at sea

    2 September, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌬 19 °C

    I don’t often see a sunrise so I thought I should take a photo to mark the occasion.
    Posted a couple of photos of inside the ship. Remarkably quiet sometimes.
    Interesting talk on the history of Grand Central Terminus. We must try to visit while in NY. It is free after all.
    You can all try a bit of “Where’s Wally” with the photo of one of the pools.
    The stage is set for the final show and this was a bizarre one. A double act with the comedian from a previous night and what was billed as a multi-instrumentalist. Turned out he played a sort of xylophone and pan pipes. Not together. That would have been more impressive. It was a bit like the worst Fringe show you have ever been to. At least we didn’t have to pay for it.
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  • Much the same

    1 September, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Usual breakfast. A couple of laps of the boat afterwards, posted a couple of penguins, lunchtime talk on Shackleton and the Endurance. Not sure of the relevance with this trip but interesting enough. Sneaky double restaurant for lunch. Started with the posh one but the choice of pud not exciting us so went up to the buffet instead. Felt a little decadent.
    The afternoon’s walk is getting busier as the weather improves.
    Another formal dinner tonight with a Masquerade Ball. Masks just required at the dance rather than the dinner which is just as well because some of the masks would have prevented any eating. As usual we just watched the dancing for a short time then left. I have a fairly short attention span for these things.
    Finished off with the usual folk duo. They seem to be on pretty much every night somewhere on the boat.
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  • Busy day on board

    31 Agustus, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    No extra hour today so opted for an 8.45 breakfast. Followed by 3 talks, the first of which was on Brain Fitness. Seems to be important for the brain’s health to keep on learning. Not good enough simply to continue to do something you can do, like Sudoku or knitting, you really need to be learning something new. So I vowed to learn to play the piano. Never touched the damn thing before, never played anything, no idea about music, tone deaf, have short stubby fingers but at least there is one available in the house.
    Next we had a talk by a Laura Tobin on weather forecasting which apparently she does for ITV. Then a talk on the history of Central Park.
    A quick late lunch followed by a talk on the Life & works of L S Lowry. They do get a bit of variety in these things.
    Then a drinks reception while the captain unveiled a new lithograph by L S Lowry that the art gallery on board was hoping to flog. G quickly necked both our glasses then left before any unveiling could happen.
    Back to the cabin and signed up for a day’s internet so that I could post a couple of penguins before I got hopelessly behind.
    Usual walk round then dinner followed by a show by a Liverpool comedian, John Martin. Briefly went to the Swing Band Night, then a bar while the finished up a bingo night. What a bizarre activity. Managed 2 songs from the following act before we headed for bed.
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  • Same again.

    30 Agustus, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    Disturbed night with our balcony door banging off and on all night. Still force 9 winds.
    No problem with the full breakfast though, as you would expect.
    Talk on “Thrive beyond 55” which is pretty much everyone on board. Only heard half of it as I had to leave to transfer our washing from machine to tumble-dryer. Considered poor form to leave it the machine as there aren’t that many of them. Most of what I gleaned from the talk shouldn’t be too hard for me. Take exercise, don’t smoke, keep weight under control, minimum alcohol, at least 30 different plant varieties per week (not so much), get plenty of sleep (oh, yes), plenty of social interaction (not sure if playing golf once a week is enough).
    Another 3D film after lunch, this time on dinosaurs. Not really my thing but let me catch up on that life-enhancing sleep stuff.
    Then afternoon tea, purely to increase my plant variety intake. No way cucumber or cherries were going to be consumed any other way. Had to go 40 mins early to get a front row table to check out the dancing. Wasn’t tempted. Some of these folk looked like they knew what they were doing.
    Could have been carnage if we had blundered about.
    Walk even more essential than usual before a late dinner, which had a knock on effect of making us miss the early show. No way could we stay up long enough for the second performance. Got some traditional New Orleans jazz, and more folk.
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  • Settling into the routine

    29 Agustus, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    Settling into life at sea. An 8am breakfast is quite manageable when we get on extra hour at night as we do for 5 out of the 7 days.
    This mornings talk was on Command at Sea. Included much talk of mutinies and collisions. Mmmm.
    We are eating in the posh restaurant every time. Food is a bit better, we tend to eat slower and portions are more sensible. In a buffet I am controlled by my greedy eyes and always overfill my plate.
    A 3D film on travelling into Space gave a good excuse for the odd glasses.
    More exploring round but some outside areas still closed because of the winds.
    Another hour’s power walking while Glyn attended the Captain’s drinks, naturally taking my glass of bubbly as well as her own. After all, they were paid for. As if she needed any excuse.
    Post dinner’s show was a short concert by Dana Monique, described as a Southern Soul Diva. Impressive voice and backside. No photos are allowed during the shows so you just get the empty stage to set the scene.
    Followed by a folk duo, a quick snifter back in our cabin and then bed. Quite worn out.
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  • First full day at sea

    28 Agustus, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    Force 9 winds overnight (or 50mph to you landlubbers), so a bit of movement but not enough to put us off the first full stack of pancakes of the trip for breakfast. The waiter did seem a little bemused at the quantity of maple syrup I asked him to pour over them. Nothing so gross on board as having to pour your own maple syrup.
    Then a wander on deck and check of the lifeboats. 22 of them, all pretty large.
    The day’s itinerary needed close examination so we didn’t miss anything. In the morning there are usually 2 or 3 talks in one of the theatres, lasting about 3/4 of an hour each, which is what they must reckon is our attention span or possibly how long the average wrinkly can control his or her bladder.
    Afternoon spent exploring the 13 decks, finishing off with an hour “power-walking” laps of the ship. Apparently 3 laps is 1.1 miles so each lap takes about 6 minutes.
    Then scrubbed up for one of their formal nights, a Black and White Ball. I suspect the last time I wore a tie, except for a wedding or funeral, was at a similar occasion on this ship 6 years ago. Had a bit of trouble persuading the wine waiter that instead of a $50 bottle of wine we were going to stick to a $7.50 pint of lager for the lady and a glass of water for myself.
    Finished the day with another wander about the deck.
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  • Leaving Southampton

    27 Agustus, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    Spent the morning in a small Titanic museum. Not many laughs. Admired a replica of a second class cabin and hoped that ours would be a little nicer.
    Checked out of our hotel. Long walk dragging our cases to the port. Caught our first glimpse of the Queen Mary 2 through a fence. Only took 15 mins between arrival at the port to getting on board. Into our Stateroom which is what they call our cabin these days. And it does seem to have improved from Titanic days. Will be checking out the lifeboats shortly.
    We stocked up on some travel essentials on our way to the ship.
    Speaking of essentials we started by casting our eye over tonight’s dinner menu and checked the dining room looked adequate. Enjoyed dinner even though the portion size was fairly modest. With 3 large meals a day plus afternoon tea even we couldn’t cope with large helpings.
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  • Trains to Southampton

    26 Agustus, Inggris ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    First train departs on time. Within an hour the first outfit is wrecked, curtesy of user error with a coffee cup. I’m sure she will master it eventually.
    Needed most of the hour and a half allowed for between trains to arrive late, walk to Euston station, Tube to Waterloo via Oxford Circus, buy more supplies, find the train and get on it.
    Nice piece of Linda’s mocha square to keep us going.
    Drop the bags off at our hotel and head for the nearest Wetherspoons for a couple of swift half’s and then a very nice Indian meal. Highlight was the complementary Lemoncelo for madam after she had sweet talked the manager. Not sure that will work in the US but you can bet she will be giving it a go.
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    Awal trip
    26 Agustus 2025