Day Nine: Logrono a Najera

Pain pain pain everywhere. I wince as I roll out of bed. My feet once planted on the floor almost buckle beneath me, it takes me by surprise.

I walk to the bathroom and brush my teeth, there are still many sleeping pilgrims in the room. It is 6.30. Did my trousers get looser in the wash? I notice bruises on my hips and collarbones. My cheeks are windburned and my hair is frazzled. Today I feel like a pilgrim.

I attempt to get my things together quietly, and I’m out by 7. A little foggy from the wine, and hungry. Nothing open until the next town, and that is in 10k. I make a start.

The town is still recovering from Saturday night, groups of young men loiter around corners and couples sway together in the morning light. I feel like an intruder, and I keep walking to leave the city behind me. Today, nothing feels easy. My pace is slower, my legs are sore. My hips are burning.

An hour in and I ask a man how far to the next town, he shares half an orange with me - and says there is a climb. So I climb! Everything feels wrong today. I plug in some music to keep my spirits up.

After I reach the first town salvation comes in the form of two brief cafe con leche’s. I worry if I stop for too long, I may not start again. I’ve done 13k so far.

Then comes the wine vineyards of the Rioja, and the heat of the day. I pay for a late start with hot sun rays and hard baked clay underfoot. A sharp pain has developed on my right foot, and my foot crises up. I develop a slight hobble. I keep going in the heat and through the pain. I just have to get to Najera.

I arrive and I hobble to the hostel. It is lovely here, a bubbling stream right in front of my room. I call. Chris and he tells me I sound tired! I am grateful to hear his voice!

I wander around in search of ibuprofen gel or something for my foot, I can now not stretch it. Many hobbling pilgrims in Najera today. Of course it is Sunday so I am out of luck. I am given some soothing gel by the receptionist without saying a word.

As for now I’m reclined with my foot up. Maybe a solo dinner at a nearby meson? Or perhaps just sleep for me!Read more