Day 10: Najera a Santo Domingo

Well, actually Santo Domingo de la Calzada…but who is really checking?

Day 10 starts with a sore throat. But feet are feeling a lot better, which is good. I also managed to sleep pretty well considering, but the throat is not ideal. I’m out of the albergue by 7.00. Yesterday Becky and her pilgrim family made some dinner and I joined them for pasta and vegetables! I miss vegetables. Even though the food is delicious I am not sure I am getting enough vitamins, hence the sore throat.

The day today felt much like other days, walking alone, warm midday sun. I walked for the first 5k with David. A lovely Italian man who shared his story and his dreams of finding a little plot of land somewhere to grow vegetables. After a while I left and kept going on into the day. Another hot day and more baked clay beneath my feet. My foot starts to ache again.

Much of the day passes without much event, and arrive at my destination at just after midday. The town is spread out around a central cathedral, with a story about a chicken at its heart.

A devout German couple was making the pilgrimage to Santiago with their eighteen-year-old son. When they reached Santo Domingo, a local girl took a liking to the young German, who, being a good Christian, did not respond to her advances.

Hurt and angry, she put a silver cup into his bag and accused him of theft. The town believed her and hung the innocent boy. His parents, although they were sad, went on to Santiago, where they prayed for their son. On their return trip, they again stopped in Santo Domingo, this time to visit their son’s body. To their surprise, he was still alive, and still hanging from his rope.

The sheriff was just sitting down to a hearty poultry dinner, and laughed in their faces. “That boy is no more alive than these chickens on my plate,” he said.

The roasted birds sprouted back their feathers and beaks, got up, and started walking around the dinner table. Properly chastened, the sheriff rushed to the gallows and released the young German, who was pardoned and allowed to go home.

The story spread, lending credibility to the Santiago pilgrimage and drawing spiritual tourists to Santo Domingo itself, which petitioned the pope to allow them to display two birds, a hen and a rooster, inside the church as a symbol of the miracle.

As I walked around the church, I spotted the live hens and the cockerel. As I approached them, they squawked. And this is apparently good luck!

I sat for a while and had a beer, read the guide for tomorrow and bought some food.

The day ends with me feeling slightly unwell, contemplating going for dinner or just sitting in the dark hostel room.

Anyway, till tomorrow!Read more