Day 21: Calzadilla a Mansilla

It almost feels like I am making these names up!

Last night, I slept well. In a single bed with 4 other women, only a hint of snoring before sleep. I woke up around 6 and made my way downstairs, I was one of the first out of the albergue. We are nearing the end of the meseta section, and this means that I am getting closer to Leon. I leave in the morning and make my way to the Via Romana, the oldest stretch of extant Roman road. It is a long and straight stretch, and I have over 17km without a stop.

When I do make a stop to eat some of my picnic, I meet Kolja, the German I had walked with a few days ago and had dinner last night. He is severely limping, but his company is appreciated on the long and straight stretch. He is very funny, and we joke about language differences and music. I share more about my life and childhood, and that brings us closer together. I tell him that I made a spare reservation for an albergue at our final destination, so I will change the name to his so he has somewhere to stay.

Much of the day passes and again, a blistering heat! The kind that really exhausts you. 26km go by.

I arrive in Mansilla, physically feeling strong, but the heat is a struggle. I have to wait for my albergue to open so I wander around the town and get a coffee, and do a little drawing. I notice when checking in that I am by far the youngest here by about 50 years! I think most people my age are chancing it and not reserving ahead. I feel bad about this for a while, but again - this is probably something that I just need to accept!

I explore the town, at the border I find a huge Roman wall surrounding the city, and the air is full of floating white pollen that falls like snow. There are some trees and I go to walk through them and find that there is a river at the edge. There are birds everywhere, and it is a real moment of peace.

I return from this moment, in which I sat for a while, to meet with Hodges at the apartment that he has rented. There a few pilgrims are gathering to make a communal meal. In the end, this has ended up being one of the nicest evenings for me so far. We eat together and I marvel at how easy it is to make friends in this experience. Everyone is open and willing to share so much more than in my normal life. I talk to Esther about motherhood and regret, Kolja about his blisters and being at the hospital, Jim about needed to take a bus to Sarria potentially, Hodges about getting a pedicure in Leon and Pien about getting the flu.

I end the evening back in my albergue, surrounded by potential snorers. Today though I feel more gratitude than sadness, for the people and the chance to experience whatever this experience is!

Tomorrow, I take a bus to Leon. Sue me! I will explore the city and enjoy my lie in. This time, I start the day with other pilgrims and take a more relaxed approach.Read more