Day 20: Terradillos a Calzadilla

Last night someone in the albergue had some sort of profoundly distressing nightmare, and was talking and wailing throughout the night. There was coughing, there was snoring, such is albergue life.

I was up and ready to walk by 5.45, and I made my way out of the albergue. As I turned the first corner I ran into Hodges and his friend Alex, and I walked with them a while. Alex works in Hastings for a zero waste food organisation, and is from Romania. So many interesting people walking this way.

I walk with them a while but I am craving solitude. After my double dinner and lunch with Jim, I’m ready to walk alone and I head off on my own. A beautiful sunrise today, and I decide this is my favourite part of the day.

I stop in a lovey little town for coffee. I run into Bernard, and Austrian who is unhappy about the reservation situation. This is very much a Camino topic, the frustration we feel at having to reserve ahead too far or at all. He is planning on buying a mat to sleep on, so that he is able to sleep outside. His main motivation is to feel relaxed and free. I reflect on this as I have also made reservations more often that not. As this is an experience I may not repeat soon, am I ensuring that I get the most out of it?

I keep going by myself and indulge in a little music. I feel energised by this and get to Sahagun in good spirits. Here I have a coffee and some cake, and officially mark that I am halfway to Santiago! I buy a certificate for 3 euros (It’s on its way to you Chris!) so I am feeling happy. The best part of the day for me so far is before 11 in the morning. This is confirmed when someone runs out onto the street to hand me a small card with a blessing on it. The people of Sahagun are friendly, and I feel confident and like a real pilgrim.

Once I leave here I walk alone, and I decide to take the older Via Romana route, which is longer and more remote. I figure I might have some time to reflect, and I meet Pien, a woman from the Netherlands who walks with me the whole route to the alternate end point of Calzadilla. I learn she is a recent PHD graduate with a new job and a new husband, she loves her life and feels very blessed. We talk about things we have in common and things we don’t, and the heat of the day doesn’t feel so extreme. It is however over 30 degrees and it is uncomfortable, hot and dusty.

I arrive at my spot for the night and run into Hodges and my German friend from yesterday. The Albergue here is very nice, and I have an actual bed. No bunk. A bed! And with a TOWEL. I am delighted and I fall asleep for an hour before dinner, which is shared in the company of all I have met in the last few days.

Tomorrow I walk for 17km with no stop for coffee again, so I am putting my coffee teabags to good use (thanks dad!) and supporting all of the early risers aiming to beat the heat of the day.

Signing off for now!Read more