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Camino De Santiago

abril - junho 2022
  • Meaghan Curry
Walking the Camino Frances, 790km from St. Jean to Santiago. Leia mais
  • Meaghan Curry

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  • 38pegadas
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  • Meaghan CurryViajanteCamino De Santiago

    Day 25: Astorga a Foncebadòn

    24 de maio de 2022, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    What a contrast my morning and my evening today. I write this from the floor of a chapel in the mountains as I lie on a mat.

    I left Astorga early in the morning at around 7.30. After an amazing night sleep, and a proper breakfast, I headed out late into the day after the sun had risen.

    I set off alone, in the knowledge that I will be walking into the mountains. Apprehensive as always about heading up into the skies, I walked at a brisk pace out of the city and soon found myself surrounded by wonderful nature. Icy forest greens, pines, lavender and yellow against the rich red clay earth, this would be one of the most beautiful days yet. I walk alone as always, and enjoy the feeling of strength and achievement that comes with walking any distance, and soon I am in the mountains.

    The day is peaceful, I run into Kolja at the first stop and we have a coffee, I also meet JP, and Melina and then I head off alone. I also run into JIM. I thought he had left at Leon, but he has decided to continue on. I am happy to see him.

    When I reach my intended destination it is 12, and I am still feeling good. I also feel trusting and happy, and I feel like I could continue. I also know that there are 5km to the next town, and I have only done about 20km today. I’m in a beautiful mountain town called Rabanal del Camino. The terrain has changed completely, now there are stone houses and streets and the landscape is dark green. It is also very cold, the coldest day so far, at only 5 degrees. I decide to continue on, and surrender myself to fate. I walk the next 5km straight up, and even start to feel a bit faint. I reach the beautiful mountain town of Foncebadon, and check the first hostel. Completo, she says. The next the same. I walk up to the parochial albergue and notice a queue of pilgrims. I am already behind a queue of bags too. Does it open soon? No they say, 2.30. Have you tried everything else in town? Yes!

    So I’m in the queue. At this point I am so cold that I take my sleeping bag out of my backpack and wrap it around myself, freezing rain falls. despite this, the pilgrims are happy. I am too? I know that I might not get a bed, and tomorrow is the Cruz de Ferro - An iconic point in the trip so far, this is the last stop on the way.

    Eventually, a super thin Italian sits next to me - his name is Simone. He, I and the rest of the queue are chatting. Finally the hospitalero shows up and tells us there are 18 beds and 8 on the floor. I get a bed, but I am the last. Behind me is a father and daughter, so I give them my bed so they can stay together. I am lucky to have space at all! I am on the floor currently, in a chapel on a mountain. Lucky I met Simone and he is an archaeologist, so I hear stories of Spanish history and architecture.

    The night ends with me next to snoring Jim in a freezing room, perhaps tomorrow the Cruz de Ferro will take on a whole new meaning.

    Wish me luck!    Leia mais

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  • Meaghan CurryViajanteCamino De Santiago

    Day 26: Foncebadòn a Ponferrada

    25 de maio de 2022, Espanha ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Well, what a freezing cold night that was. On my mat on the floor in a church in the mountains, there was nothing I could do to get warm. Luckily Jim had left a sleeping pill on the mat for me, so I think it took the edge off somewhat. There was a sense of camaraderie to the morning, someone had brought a kettle we all huddled around and I had a coffee. It was so, so cold as I headed out into dawn at the top of the mountains.

    Today was the Cruz de Ferro, an iconic moment in the pilgrimage where you leave a stone to symbolise the leaving behind of the weight you are carrying. I had a small stone Chris and I had collected in London. I walked today with Simone, an Italian archaeologist who was my companion for the Cruz de Ferro at sunrise. He is travelling so light, he wrapped his sleeping bag around his shoulders for warmth. It was bitterly cold, so after leaving the stone and feeling pretty much the same as before, I walked on. I don’t think this was ever a real moment for me but it is an achievement to have made it this far. The walk is beautiful today, cold but as the sun rises the warmth comes. Simone tells me all about the history of Spain, I learn he is very interested in the fall of the Roman Empire in the country. He is a baker by trade, but he has always dreamed of working in a museum as an archaeologist. I said he should be a teacher, as he is very good at explaining things!

    We walk through the mountains and down, down down. I slip! My ankles give away and I hit the dusty path, scraping my knee but my trousers are saved! I am thankful for this. The day is tough down about 25km to the beautiful town of Ponferrada. Simone and I celebrate with a beer and he tells me more archaeological things. I am thankful for company but also feeling very weary, I often end up hiking one on one and this can be challenging! We tour the castle and he tells me fascinating clues to help age certain parts of the building. He concludes that the site may have Templar origins, but the main structure is much later.

    The town is beautiful but I don’t really explore it. I turn down an offer for dinner so I can spend some time in solitude, maybe the pilgrim gods will forgive me? No dinner for me tonight!

    2 more days to Galicia.    Leia mais

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  • Meaghan CurryViajanteCamino De Santiago

    Day 27: Ponferrada a Villafranca

    26 de maio de 2022, Espanha ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    A glorious sleep. A beautiful mattress. A blissful morning. In my room last night, a woman was crying. She was 55, and very upset that she couldn’t find a room to reserve for two nights ahead. She told me that this was not the spirit of the Camino, and she couldn’t compete with the young people leaving so early to reserve beds. I feel sad, sad about her situation but also sad about the way that the Camino might be going.

    I leave Ponferrada and meet John, an Australian banker who tells me he never quite figured out what he wanted to do when he grows up. He tells me that we have to accept the world we live in today, And that means accepting the experience at are having. I realise that in many ways this applies to what the woman last night was upset about. Perhaps expectations stop us from enjoying what we have today. I feel grateful that I have reserved some beds, so that I can free up cheaper ones for those that need them more than I do. I walk in alone, and write this as I enjoy a morning coffee.

    I arrive in Villafranca del Bierzo. It’s beautiful here, I walk a stretch with Bernhardt from Austria. But mainly by myself. The town here is of historic significance to the Camino, because many pilgrims received their compostela here if they could go no further. I arrived feeling pretty good, although maybe a bit later. I check into a beautiful hostel with a garden and enjoy a beer and do some drawing.

    I meet Alessandro, Pascuale, Simone and Giovanni (!) a group of Italians for a beer in the square. I enjoy their company and they are very funny, they are all from different parts of Italy so they tell me about how different their accents all are.

    Later I have dinner with a large group of pilgrims, and realise that half the table is German and the other half is Italian! So, after I leave I head to the hostel and prepare myself for sleep.

    The days are more beautiful now but getting tougher with more climbs, I have to prepare for a big day tomorrow.

    Goodnight!    Leia mais

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  • Meaghan CurryViajanteCamino De Santiago

    Day 28: Villafranca a O’Cebreiro

    27 de maio de 2022, Espanha ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    The mother of all ascents, as my guide book mentioned, was in fact not an over exaggeration as I had thought. What a day today. I left again later than usual as I struggle to get up at 5.30 these days. I get ready and head into the chilly mountain air, and make it about 1km before stopping for coffee. There are 3 different routes today, and I am headed to O’Cebreiro so need to cover 28km and a really steep ascent at the end to climb over 1000m in less than 1km.

    While I enjoy my coffee someone mentions to me I’ve missed the turning for the mountain pass alternative route. I say that I will return to do it, as the main road apparently passes by the road for most of the day. This ended up being a great but extremely challenging day, as the mountain pass took me up 950m and back down again without making much headway in terms of distance. But, the pass was so beautiful. I listened to birds and some music and made my way through the trees and over the stones, thankful for a natural path and a break from walking by roads. When at the top, I stop at a beautiful town where there is a welcoming cafe. I stop there for an hour, very unlike me, but have a coffee and locally made chestnut cake and chestnut liqueur on the house.

    I meet pilgrims and watch them go, and i know most of the people by now. I even meet Pien, from the Netherlands, and we share a hug in the knowledge we might not see each other again.

    When I finally do leave, the day is in full swing and with that comes the heat. With most of the walk to go and a notorious climb at the end, I do not welcome the heatwave Spain is experiencing at the moment. I walk on.

    The walk by the N1, and don’t spot many pilgrims. I figure I am behind. I keep walking through the sun and don’t stop. Applying as much sunscreen as I can. Somehow I make it to Las Herrerias, the town at the base of the mountain. It is 1.30 in the afternoon, and I drink some water and eat my sandwich to give me strength.

    And then the climb! My legs tired but capable, the heat suffocating. Climbing in the blaring sun is another experience altogether. I pass a few struggling pilgrims and we wave to each other. I keep going and I try to medicate through the experience. Breathe in, breathe out. I make it to the town before and decide to stop for a beer. Here I sit next to a delightful woman in her 60s and her Camino friend, a Dutch woman in her 50s. They show me so much kindness! They fill up my water and give me some trail mix, they give me the strength to carry on.

    I make it finally to Galicia, I cross the border in the mountains and continue another km to O’Cebreiro. A beautiful, ancient town set into the hills. Icy coloured stone and green trees, panoramic views of the valley on either side stretching as far as you can see. I check in and the usual ritual of shower, laundry and unpack. I head into town for food, and enjoy some Caldo Gallego.

    I decide to attend pilgrims mass, which I have not done before. I am not religious, but I have heard that it is a special ceremony. I accidentally raise my hand in the sermon when the priests mentions English, thinking he was handing out translations. Nope! I end up delivering the Sermon in English for a room full of peasants. The priest brings people from every language, but English has the most to read. Nerve wracking! I abstain from eating the body of Christ, but I do think it is a beautiful ceremony even though I am not religious. I leave feeling slightly odd, but at peace.

    I enjoy a wonderful glass of wine in the company of Fabian from the Netherlands and Anna from Germany. We watch the sunset together, over the valley. I feel very content.

    A nights sleep is welcome, but not easy to fall asleep. I blame the wine. A short day tomorrow means a relaxed start, and perhaps even breakfast in the valley.    Leia mais

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  • Meaghan CurryViajanteCamino De Santiago

    Day 29: O’Cebreiro a La Balsa

    28 de maio de 2022, Espanha ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    O’Cebreiro was a magical place to start the day. Although I had hoped to get up earlier, I found myself leaving at 7 and enjoying a breakfast in one of the traditional Galician huts in the town. It is lovely to be in this part of the country, and although there is a steep climb to get started with, the rest of the day is all downhill through fields and forest, chestnut trees and oak. Truly beautiful and peaceful as I walk through the countryside.

    The views from the mountain are panoramic to either side, and I descend down for the next couple of hours. I stop a few times for water or coffee or tortilla, but my stomach is bothering me today so I’m looking forward to arriving at my destination.

    I decide however last minute to change my plans and stay at a town at the base of two alternate paths. I now think I will take the longer route tomorrow to enjoy the cultural town of Samsol, so I park myself at the hostel in Triacastela - I’ve walked 22km today.

    Laundry, shower, and a call to Chris as it is his birthday today! Feeling slightly out of sorts, I spend a few hours reclined in the shade in my room, ensuring that I don’t over exert myself in the heat of the day.

    I enjoy a beer with Kendall from Texas. She is walking alone, and I met her yesterday at the church where I read the sermon. She is diabetic, we talk about the challenges she has faced and what she has overcome to be here. I ask her about life in Dallas and she tells me about her last boyfriend, who is now no longer her boyfriend, who is part of a large political family. I find it fascinating, she tells me that in this kind of circle, appearance is everything. She was involved in her boyfriends fathers political campaigning, and was engaged to be married. She had to meet with his family’s political advisor to be briefed on how she could be in public. Then, out of nowhere her boyfriend left her and went to Mexico for a month with someone else. I think he was suffocated by his family, and the expectations they and he placed on himself. She mentioned that her worth had become so wrapped up in his life, that she felt profoundly lost when he left. I thought how stifling this all sounded, and was grateful for my life and the people around me, as well as my outlook.

    We make plans for dinner, and I head back to the hostel. The day feels long today.

    Kendall never messages me back, so I wander around the town and by the stream. I eat a sandwich in the hostel and then decide to head to the local bar, where I run into some people I met a few days ago. I join them to watch the match, Liverpool vs. Real Madrid. I have a beer and some croquetas. I feel a bit out of sorts, perhaps a bit lost in the sea of people who know each other. I try to accept this and move past it, in the knowledge that tomorrow is another day.

    Goodnight everyone :)    Leia mais

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  • Meaghan CurryViajanteCamino De Santiago

    Day 30: Triacastela a Sarria

    29 de maio de 2022, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Two routes today, and two options. I always find I struggle with this, as I never know which path to take. Perhaps a bit reflective of me in real life?

    After a few cervezas watching the match the night before, and having ingratiated myself with a new Camino family, I leave alone and feel many emotions. Perhaps a little lonely? I start down the route to Sansol, where there is a monastery. But something makes me stop, and I turn around and go the countryside route to San Xil instead. Just as I retrace my steps I run into Lorna, Iraxe and Sophie from the night before. So now, I walk with a group! Maybe the Camino does provide?

    The walk truly is beautiful today, traversing countryside paths and by farms, all green and fresh.
    I keep a good pace and walk with Lolo, a Spaniard from Extremadura who is a part of this Camino family. We enjoy a good conversation about work and life and balance, and the short walk of 18km is soon over as we arrive into Sarria.

    A significant point, as this means I reach the last 100km of the route. I feel strange as I enter the city, a bit lost and a bit alone. I check into my albergue and then I receive a message from Lolo to meet the group down at the waterfront for octopus - a typical gallegan dish!

    This ends up being a really fun evening, with far too many chupitos and beers and not enough food! But I really enjoyed my time. Iraxe gave me a red string bracelet, to signify a bond that is unbreakable, and I am an honorary member of the family, even if just for a little while.    Leia mais

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  • Meaghan CurryViajanteCamino De Santiago
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    Day 31: Sarria a Portomarin

    30 de maio de 2022, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Slight headache this morning on account of the chupitos last night! But I make it out of the albergue in one piece, no later than 6. An early start rewards me with a beautiful blanket of mist throughout the town and I make my way into the countryside.

    Pure magic today, an absolutely beautiful walk. The path feels ancient, twisted trees line either side and gorgeous countryside in every direction. Feels special and demands silence as I walk through the mist.

    I stop at a hut because I spot Yorkshire tea!! Turns out a man called Richard has bought a little house and offers British tea for a donation. I enjoy a cup of tea with him and he tells me about his life. He also has military parents, and now works as a translator and moves between Spain and York. He tells me about his passion for Yorkshire ales, and shipped me his collection of beer mats. As we part ways, gifts me one of the mats. I am happy!

    A couple of climbs, and it really feels like Galicia now. All the smells from my childhood, the smell of the damp earth and forest. The mist still hangs throughout the day.

    I don’t take many photos today as I just experience it. But I do make it to 100km mark; a good and bad thing. A great achievement and a chapter closing. I reach the stunning town of Portomarin around 11.30, utterly bewitched by the landscape. I feel quiet and contemplative.

    The day is spent milling around the town, having some food, eating with Kevin from Germany and then later with Hodges, Nico and a group of Americans. In good company today.

    Tomorrow I make my way closer to Santiago!    Leia mais

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  • Meaghan CurryViajanteCamino De Santiago

    Day 32: Portomarin a Palas de Rei

    31 de maio de 2022, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    A strange day.

    Beautiful walk but the first real day of rain to contend with, and a strange sense of disturbed quietness as many many hordes of pilgrims are walking the last 100km for the Compostela, so there is a renewed energy on the way. Of course, they are doing their own Camino, I am happy for them and I have no judgement. This morning I leave at six, and fall in line after a group of about 45 young Irish teenage girls walking very fast, and talking very loudly and excitedly. There is something slightly jarring about the contrast between the early morning and the level of energy from these girls, I start the day off therefore with a weird, manic energy.

    I try to overtake, but my body feels tired and sluggish. The unforgiving Galician countryside is like a wave; up and down and up and down. My energy depleting with each overtake, I stop several times along the way to recuperate.

    A slightly frenetic start is followed by a day of walking by many roads, weaving around pilgrims and by rain. I find myself lost in my thoughts often, not fully present. Not really wanting to add more volume to the already buzzing pilgrim train.

    I walk alone mostly again, aside from a small stretch with a father and daughter and with a new companion, Kevin from Germany. He wants to walk with me for moral support, as his feet are really bothering him today. I can’t help but feel like I’m not the best company today and don’t feel much like talking.

    I walk 25km without much to report.

    Some music is listened to, coffee is consumed. I arrive at the town without a reservation, and Kevin and I are turned away twice when we reach Palas de Rei. Luckily, a kind hospitalero calls forward for us and a bed is secured at the rather unpleasant ‘Buen Camino Hostel’, where Kevin and I are in a double room. Kevin is a lovely and kind, and a good conversationalist, but I find myself both physically and mentally exhausted. The rain keeps me inside today, when I really would like to be outside breathing some fresh air.

    We do share some Pulpo (octopus) which is Kevin’s first experience. It is good, but it will be better in Melide! I will be there tomorrow, and hoping the rain holds off enough to be able to sit outside. I am looking forward to it, my second to last day before Santiago.

    I’m really not sure what my overriding emotion is today, and of course the day is not over. Something tells me I will return to the hostel to relax, perhaps go out for dinner alone if I can help it, and get an early night in solitude. So, I’m checking in for the day a little early. That being said, a nice group of pilgrims are milling around the town and there is a beer to be had in good company, so maybe I will change my mind!

    Less photos today, but know it was a beautiful day - albeit a little damp, but I was lost in thought and not recording anything.

    Tomorrow Pulpo and another beautiful day, perhaps again in the rain!    Leia mais

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  • Meaghan CurryViajanteCamino De Santiago

    Day 33: Palas de Rei a Ribadiso

    1 de junho de 2022, Espanha ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    I wake up leisurely in my private room with Kevin, at around 7am - yesterday we ate some snacks in the hostel and had a long conversation for dinner.

    Yesterday evening, everywhere was very loud with lots of pilgrims all connecting vocally in every restaurant and bar throughout the small town. I found it all overwhelming (Doesn’t take much it would seem!), so I was grateful for something lower key.

    Kevin mentions that he thought it was a nice touch that I turned my phone off for dinner, and he wanted to mention that he felt I would be a special friend in his life. I felt honoured.

    We leave in the morning after a sugary breakfast of yoghurt and pastries and make our way out around 8am. The day starts off with promise, even if the way is extremely busy. Kevin is experiencing some severe foot pain, and I am feeling tired still. Lacking in the energy of the earlier days, thoughts of the experience being over begin to flicker in my mind like a small flame. Showers, cups of tea with Chris, exhibitions in London, walks in England…start to flood my mind. Perhaps there is a feeling of my life rushing back to the surface, after many weeks of being at the back of my mind. I feel perhaps some longing for that, but a desire to also bring some changes back with me. I am unsure how I will feel in a few days, but I can only feel what I feel, and accept it.

    The skies begin to cloud over, we keep walking. However after stopping for some coffee the sky threatens even more. We decide to get rain packs and rain jackets on. Timely, as once we start again the heavens open. A biblical deluge of rain, which soaks me through completely in about five minutes. We make it about ten minutes before we huddle under a roof to get out more rain gear. I try on (for the first time) my rain poncho, which I have carried since SJPDP, and I tell Kevin I will keep going.

    We walk together further, he is surprised that I didn’t give up! We are smiling, or at least I am, as I feel that I hadn’t really experienced any rain to this point so - how lucky am I?!

    I walk 10km in the pouring rain to Melide, which is where I plan to stop for lunch. I am completely soaked, feet are drenched and the rain doesn’t stop. I get lured in to a famous Pulpo restaurant and I order for a family of 6, which of course I can’t eat! Best tasting octopus but I later tell Chris that I will be a vegetarian when I return for at least 3 months to offset all of the meat and fish I have consumed on this walk.

    I tell Kevin that I need to walk alone, he reserves at the same albergue as me, so I need some time to myself. He says he admires that in me, and I leave happy that I have set a boundary!

    The last 10km are sunshine, which I am beyond ecstatic about. I listen to albums from my childhood, walking through familiar smells and singing along. I probably look insane, but I feel great on this last bit of the walk today.

    I arrive at the albergue in a small town, most pilgrims will go further today, so the room is quiet. I manage to do some laundry and make dinner plans with Kevin.

    I start to plan my final real walking day tomorrow, it hasn’t really sunk in yet. I will go on to Finisterre, but the French Camino will end on Friday. I will have walked 780km.

    Over and out from me today, I love you all.    Leia mais

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    Day 34: Ribadiso a O Pedrouzo

    2 de junho de 2022, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    I try to sneak out a little early today, to get some time on my own. This was not possible, and I and up leaving with Kevin. Today my ankle is very sore, and everything is still a little damp from yesterday. It seems likely I have developed the same affliction as Kevin which is tendinitis in my left foot.

    Each footstep on the uneven pebbles brings me one step closer to Santiago. Today, I don’t have a plan. The rain threatens in the horizon, and in my mind I feel I might continue on as far as 36km today - so that I can enjoy a leisurely start tomorrow. My body has other plans, and it becomes clear after traversing up and down hill after hill that I need to rethink.

    I ask Kevin for some alone time, he is happy to oblige. Although I walk as fast as I can to get a little distance, the two of us are hobbling at the same speed. We end up linking back up, and walking the remainder of the way together. We stop just before the rain in a town 19km from our starting point. The forecast doesn’t look good, and we decide to stay at the next town. We end up booking the same albergue, and Kevin mentions it would be his honour to walk in with me to Santiago in the morning.

    I feel conflicted, as most of me really wants to walk this final day alone. But, I know it would mean a great deal to Kevin not to be alone. Perhaps this is a Camino kindness I must do. I still haven’t decided. I’m now in a quiet hamlet about 22km from the cathedral in Santiago. Kevin would like to walk the way with me, I want to leave early to ensure I can get there when the pilgrims office opens at 10.

    I feel a bit distracted to be fully present in the experience, perhaps the overwhelm of the situation or the uncertainty about how I will feel tomorrow. Either way, tomorrow I arrive.

    I go to dinner (Kevin is there too!) and enjoy a peaceful setting with some wine. Kevin tells me his plan to create a Camino tattoo, with the initials of all of the important people he has met on the way. He has said he will put A for a girl called Anouk that he started with, and M for me, as we will walk in together. I am touched by this, and also by his honesty and vulnerability. We should all be a little more Kevin I feel.

    I make the decision to walk in with Kevin tomorrow, as perhaps it will be an important moment that will be nice to share. Who knows. I have an early night, in preparation for an early start tomorrow at 5. I will keep all posted, and I will have completed the way by the next time I write!    Leia mais

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