South America 2024

November 2024 - January 2025
  • Gavin Wilson
Avoiding extortionate electricity charges in the UK by travelling through South America during the winter of 2024-25. Read more
  • Gavin Wilson

List of countries

  • Mexico Mexico
  • Belize Belize
  • Guatemala Guatemala
  • Colombia Colombia
  • England England
Categories
Work & Travel
  • 22.2kkilometers traveled
Means of transport
  • Flight-kilometers
  • Walking-kilometers
  • Hiking-kilometers
  • Bicycle-kilometers
  • Motorbike-kilometers
  • Tuk Tuk-kilometers
  • Car-kilometers
  • Train-kilometers
  • Bus-kilometers
  • Camper-kilometers
  • Caravan-kilometers
  • 4x4-kilometers
  • Swimming-kilometers
  • Paddling/Rowing-kilometers
  • Motorboat-kilometers
  • Sailing-kilometers
  • Houseboat-kilometers
  • Ferry-kilometers
  • Cruise ship-kilometers
  • Horse-kilometers
  • Skiing-kilometers
  • Hitchhiking-kilometers
  • Cable car-kilometers
  • Helicopter-kilometers
  • Barefoot-kilometers
  • 60footprints
  • 66days
  • 892photos
  • 92likes
  • Cartagena, 16th Nov.

    November 16, 2024 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Up with the larks and a hearty breakfast in the cafe area. It's strange, but the food is beginning to look and taste the same - regardless of whether it's breakfast, lunch or dinner. Still, it's very cheap and 'filling'.
    Today was about exploring the old town areas, and I wasn't disappointed. Cartagena has a lovely feeling about it: colonial yes, but a relatively genteel air to it. There seems to be more money here, with less of a sense that people are either just getting by or worse.
    I really like Cartagena. The people seem really pleasant on the whole. The weather is just about right: 30-32 degrees, sunny and dry - without the regular afternoon downpours of further south.
    I'll wax lyrical about Cartagena, and Colombia in general, in a later post before I move on. It deserves a deeper analysis.
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  • Playa Blanca, Cartagena, 17th - 19th Nov

    Nov 17–19, 2024 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Sorry, so sorry to anyone who still checks on my travel progress and might be wondering where the devil he's got to.
    It's just that I've been a bit off-grid - left both my phone and MacBook in my room (and having a good time it has to be said).
    I got an offer that was too good to miss from Jay, the owner/manager where I'm staying to join him, his partner and their friend who helps ruin the place in a Taxi ride to Playa Blanca. This is a spit of land jutting south-west of Cartagena leading to a small town called Barú.
    Apparently, the local government have chosen not to provide services to the area, so it's a bit of a 'hippy', beach commune complete with small entrepreneurs and people getting back to a 'simpler' way of living. All of the buildings are just a few steps from the Caribbean Sea and it's absolutely gorgeous.
    We stayed the last two of nights with a couple, Juan and Eva, in there 'to be completed' restaurant with rooms. Yep, it was damned basic but kind've fun for a couple of nights. We barbecued food on the beach, swam several times a day, drank and chatted (me mainly listening) until the fab sunset had long disappeared.
    On 18th I had a dive with PADI instructor/buddy Taiwana from Ecuador. Pretty good visibility at 10 metres. Felt good to be back underwater
    Great times, great people, great memories.
    The boat ride back to Cartagena was a drenching, diesel-fumed hell-ride, but we survived.
    I hope the attached photos do the place justice.
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  • Cartagena, 20th Nov.

    November 20, 2024 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Today was spent mainly mooching around Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas. As castles go, it was pretty much okay. The tunnels under the fortifications look mighty worrisome. The cells look like the worst kind've solitary confinement. Lazy time the rest of the day.
    Right then. As I'm leaving soon, it's time to put down a few thoughts about my time in Cartagena.
    Put briefly, I've had a really great time here. The people are friendly, it's safe to walk the streets - even at night - the occasional hawker of trinkets and fruit/drinks are not too pushy, and I haven't been poisoned. However, you wouldn't choose to come here for the gastronomy.
    Perhaps as a reaction to the horrendous image Colombia had for several years as the international hub for cocaine tom-foolery, the Colombians have become noticeably nice. There are lots of people in uniforms around; police, security guards in most buildings and random people regulating behaviour - at least on the surface, to the untrained European eye.
    Cartagena is a fascinating place for lots of reasons. It's Colonial, often war-ravaged history is everywhere to be seen. Whilst Drake and the Spanish did their best to plunder the area until nothing was left of the original culture, that seems to be forgotten as pragmatism and just getting on with making a living has boosted the city's confidence.
    There's a certain amount of wealth hereabouts: nothing like the wide disparities between the few 'haves' and the many 'have nots' I saw in Bogota. This means that some of Cartagena's areas feel a little like some parts of Spain - with a Caribbean twist. I like it a lot.
    The weather feels like the Caribbean, and some of the beaches out of town confirm this. The afternoon storm showers are a hassle, but they pass.
    If I could wave a magic wand and improve Cartagena with one small thing, it would be to increase the number of people doing litter collecting. It goes on, but not much. The Cartagenans (and elsewhere in Colombia) often make positive noises about their 'eco ambitions', and pride in their city's appearance, but this is probably just another example of marketing hype for the tourists but with little real action.
    It's as trendy and Bohemian as anywhere I've yet been in Colombia. It's also been my favourite place so far on this trip.
    Favourite ice cream? It has to be the Mojito.
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  • Cartagena, 21st Nov.

    November 21, 2024 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    This was my last full day in Cartagena and I needed a quiet one to recharge my batteries. After a calm morning trying to catch up with in between water cut-offs and Internet stoppages, I returned to an area I'd not explored before called Getsemani. It seemed to be where all the hipsters hang out - so perfect for me to slide into and meld with the crowd. A grid of streets around Plaza de la Trinidad had parties going on, and the usual street sellers keeping the tourists and travellers fed and hydrated.Read more

  • Cartagena to Santa Marta, 22nd Nov.

    Nov 22–23, 2024 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Not exactly sad to leave Cartagena, but it's been a good visit. However, I need to plough on. It's a huge country, and others await.
    This post will have to suffice for yesterday and today. Packing, travelling, unpacking. You get the picture.
    As planned, on the bus from Cartagena I arrived in Santa Marta at a sensible hour and found my new digs pretty easily for once. I chose somewhere within a short walk of the bus stop - huzzah!
    On the surface, Santa Marta doesn't have much to distinguish it. I had it firmly recommended by one of the guys in Cartagena. It's the places that it serves as a base for exploring, so I'm looking forward to that. Some of the 'organised' trips from Santa Marta are definitely for the well-heeled tourist, so I'll be looking to find cheaper ways to get to 1 or 2 of these.
    A wander around town to get my bearings was still pretty confusing. The Colombian grid system of Carreras and Calles is getting a bit more user-friendly, so something. is sinking in at last.
    First impressions are that it's a 'small town with a big heart': not a bustling, wealthy hot spot set up for the big-spending international jet-setting tourist. So I'm thankful for that at least. I just wish there wasn't so much rubbish in the streets - (I'll shut up about that now, and accept the fact that this isn't Switzerland.)
    If I wanted picturesque poverty, I should've gone back to India. But there's enough hereabouts to satisfy my yearnings for photogenic squalor. I have to remind myself to avoid the tendency that some travellers fall prey to of 'wanting to capture' the 'underbelly' of a country, or to put a gloss on searching out the 'real' breathing life of a place by 'taking only photographs and leaving only footprints'. Hypocrisy on my part? It's not my worst sin I suppose. I just snap with a smile and hope for the best.
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  • Santa Marta, 23rd Nov.

    November 23, 2024 in Colombia ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Santa Marta is growing on me. Whilst the old centre isn't quite as ancient or historically significant as some other places I've been to on this trip, it's got its own 'charm'. I'm sure there'll be more to discover, as I hope the snaps indicate.
    Well, as usual, if I'm not careful, I could eat up a few miles walking around, getting (blissfully) lost and then finding somewhere recognisable to guide me back.
    After checking with the manager where I'm staying (a really nice, friendly chap) I think I've got a good idea where the buses start from to get to the 'must see' places in the area. One or two beaches are within walking distance, but to see the villages where indigenous people still live I'll have to do some travelling.
    All in all, not a bad first couple of days. The people are still friendly and I haven't worn my Covid mask yet.
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  • Taganga visit from Santa Marta, 24th Nov

    November 24, 2024 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    It was time to get out of Santa Marta and see what the nearby spots had to offer. Bravely (foolishly?) I decided to walk from Santa Marta to Taganga. It looks easy on the map, and I quite like walking and photographing on the way - but it was hot today (around 31 degrees but felt higher).
    I don't know if it had something to do with it being a Sunday but people were out to enjoy the heat. The walk started on the flat, then a steep climb over a hill between S. M. and Taganga, then down the other side into a nice looking bay.
    Getting closer, it was clearly going to be busy today.
    Taganga is described online as ' a traditional fishing village'. Oh yeah? There were a lot of fishing boats on the beach to be sure, but weekend tourism was where it was at today.
    Had a good wander along the shoreline, in and out of shops and cafes. Had a swim - a short one as the water was littered with small bits of rubbish, and bought a couple of cans of beer (not great, fizzy but cold) and decided I'd had enough for the afternoon.
    With my earlier bravery waining, I got the bus back. They're damned cheap but you take your life in their hands as the driver negotiates the potholed road and crazy motorcyclists.
    Survived again!
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  • Members of an indigenous tribe waiting at the bus stop to home.A Colombian cat-in-the-hat.

    Santa Marta, 25th Nov.

    November 25, 2024 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    It was obvious this morning that I was more tired than usual. Getting out of bed and struggling to the shower was a bit of a challenge. Maybe I've not been eating right? maybe the constant heat and humidity is getting to me?
    Whatever, I need to get some vitamins and minerals inside me, and I don't think the local fizzy stuff masquerading as beer contains much of either.
    I needed a few more Colombian pesos to tide me over until I move on to Guatemala - 14 days away. As expected, the bank charges somewhere between 5% and 10 % for the privilege at the ATM. Oh well, I'll have to bite the bullet.
    It's clear to me that the Colombians have an aversion for a nice spot of quiet, let alone silence. In almost every shop doorway, mobile drinks/fruit seller and hawker there's a sound system blaring out some informative message + music + Colombian rap. It's pretty incessant and hard to avoid.
    However, after a while, it just becomes the background sound, like elevator muzak.
    I must be 'getting with the flow'. Maybe not 'going native', but at least relaxing into the flow of life here. I'm walking a lot slower (could be the heat) and I don't get half as irritated by taxis constantly sounding their horn in the belief that I must be in need of a taxi ride to somewhere. The calls of 'senior' or even 'amigo' from people trying to sell me something don't bother me as mush as they did. Only the calls from some street urchin on the make of 'bro' get my back up. I am most definitely not your 'bro' sonny Jim.
    This afternoon I retreated to my digs, had a cup of coffee with the manager, and went up to top floor to relax a while. Red letter day: I had my first sit in a hammock that I can remember. (Do you 'sit' in a hammock or 'lie' in one?)
    Answers on a postcard please.
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  • Santa Marta from half-way on today's walk.
    Playa el Rodadero, beach

    Santa Marta to Rodadero, 26th Nov.

    November 26, 2024 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Today was one of those ' I've got a good idea. Why don't I walk to the next town in the morning heat?' There was probably a good explanation why it was so knackering when I walked to Taganga last week.
    Will this boy never learn?
    I wanted a swim, and the beaches near where I'm staying are a bit crummy, so I set off for Playa Blanca, just up the coast from Gaira. It was a bit tough going and I became more and more sure I'd missed the turnoff. Anyway... to cut to the chase, I ended up walking a bit further on and ended up in another Playa, Playa el Rodadero.
    Actually, it wasn't such a bad move. The water was clean, the beach wasn't too busy. It's definitely a place where people in Santa Marta escape to for a morning/afternoon.
    I got the bus back - I'm not completely stupid.
    That was enough expending energy for one day. The streets of Santa Marta just keep on giving. I found even more trendy Bo-Ho cafe and restaurants in an area just a few blocks from where I'm staying.
    One of the shots below shows my latest favourite gelateria.
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  • Still in Santa Marta, 27th Nov.

    November 27, 2024 in Colombia ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Bit of a lazy day today.
    I took a walk to the junctions of two streets where the buses to both towns, Minca and Palomino apparently set off from. It's hard to tell, but I think I've got this right. I wanted to double check on the early start times for when I need to head that way - 30th Nov. for Minca. I'll think about Palomino later when I'm in MInca.
    Apart from this 'exciting' detour I stayed within a few blocks of my digs. It's an interesting area in itself, and there are lots of places for lunch, dinner, snacks, avoiding souvenir sales persons.
    I've been trying my best to photograph a variety of subjects, so that it doesn't get repetitive. The number of (mainly men) sleeping rough - even during the day - seems to be increasing the longer I'm here.
    My excuse / rationale for photographing them is that they're adults (down on their luck or under duress perhaps) and always in public places. I've seen several possible shots of children 'resting' or sleeping, and I've avoided photographing them. Almost universally, I've found the Columbians to be friendly, polite, welcoming and patient with this idiot foreigner.
    I couldn't ask for much more.
    Oh, the food. They'll never win awards for the stuff most Columbians seem to accept. Sadly, the international tourist grub is predictable and overpriced.
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