Indonesia

August 2023
A 15-day adventure by Vicki Read more
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  • Day 3

    Bali to Lombok

    August 11, 2023 in Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    After a very comfy night's sleep in my little hut, it was breakfast then pick up to take me to the port. I got the quick-ish boat across to Lombok, with quick stops at 2 of the Gili Islands on the way. After being given a travel sickness tablet before getting on, I was a bit concerned, but it was a smooth trip with stunning views. Back in a taxi to take me to Mataram, this included very windy roads up a hill, more beautiful views and what I thought were stray dogs, but turned out to be monkeys . Made it to my hotel no issue but for a capital city, there is not a lot here. I made a quick stop at the shopping centre, grabbed some fruit on the way back then ate out at a restaurant round the corner (some kind of seafood fried rice, was lovely).Read more

  • Day 4

    Mataram- Sweaty mess 🥵

    August 12, 2023 in Indonesia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Had a lay-in after 10+ hours of much needed sleep. Took a taxi down to the beach where I walked through/passed some kind of Hindu (?) ceremony. There were loads of family groups, all in traditional/religious dress, making small decorations that were then burnt or thrown in the sea. There were also loads in entranceways to homes. The beach I went to had black sands and had great views (shame about the litter). I was happy reading my book there until I noticed an old man sat staring at me, then made a quick get away.
    Decided to walk back, not sure it was the best idea but I made it. They must not get many tourists here, especially ones who walk (no one walks here, all in cars or motorbikes). Saw some impressive gates with built in shrines, said hello to a lot of curious people who wanted to practice English, went through the pearl District and managed not to get lost. Was such a sweaty mess when I got back (would explain some of the looks on the way).
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  • Day 5

    In to the mountains

    August 13, 2023 in Indonesia ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Sort of early start today, at least earlier than planned, which wasn't fun as jetlag caught up with me last night. I was collected at 9.15ish by Jet, my host at a homestay. On our way we made a pit stop at monkey forest where the monkeys were really gentle (unlike the Thai ones). They took peanuts from my hand with surprisingly soft fingers- though I did freak out when a male one jumped up next to me. Also had amazing views of the jungle and the sea from this spot. We continued on until it was time for a lunch stop, had some kind of BBQ-ed fish and rice by the sea with an amazing dragon fruit smoothie.

    Finally made it to the homestay, and definitely more of a homestay than I had been expecting (each family member takes in one person/couple and are dotted around the village). Had a bit of chill time (long enough to find the calf next to the toilet) before being sent to watch stick fighting. As. Foreigner, I was sent to get a VIP ticket at 25000 (about £1.30) and sat in the foreigners section, I was on my own for a while but thankfully if filled up and I was kept entertained by the kids repeatedly saying hi.

    When the stick fighting started (accompanied by a constant drumming), it was exactly as it sounds. Two guys dressed in traditional skirts and headscarves have a stick and a shield and try to hit each other. Hard. They made a proper whipping noise and you could see the welts on their faces/arms/bodies. One poor guy got caught where no guy wants to be caught. If the audience liked the fighters, they would dance on to the ring and throw money around between rounds. It was quite surreal, not helped by the stray chicken that decided to run around the ring at one point. Got to meet a couple of other tourists staying in other homestays in the village, which was nice.

    This evening I had dinner down at Jets and was joined by a couple from Italy, a brother and sister from Spain and two guys from France. It was a nice evening, eating great food and chatting about our upcoming plans and previous travels. Also met Adi who is now going to be my guide tomorrow.

    Not getting much sleep as my host, his family and some others are currently shredding tobacco leaves they've drying and putting them on bamboo racks to dry further. All right outside my door.
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  • Day 6

    Waterfalls

    August 14, 2023 in Indonesia ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    The shredding stopped at 11 and the loud talking finished about 12.30, and other than the confused rooster crowing at 4 in the morning, I got a decent night's sleep.

    Breakfast was rice and cooked vegetables, not my first choice for breakfast but it tasted nice and was filling. Had a bit of a wait for Adi, which was filled by trying rice wine with Jet's wife (who does all the cooking). Adi finally arrived with a bag of the promised lunch (drinks and random snack bars) before sending me off with Oman (my host) which turned out to be way better as Adi gave me the creeps but I couldn't put my figure on why. Oman took my by motorbike up to the waterfalls- I definitely could have walked the distance but it turned out to be useful having a guide. We went to Tiu Kelep first, which was stunning and hardly anyone was there to start with. It has two falls, one seems to be split into two as it goes through a hole in the trees to crash down. I happily claimed about and got drenched by the spray, do love a waterfall!
    The second waterfall, Sendang Gila, was not as high but wider with more pools at the bottom, this seemed like the start of the river whereas the other fell into the river as it flowed past. To get there we had to cross the river at different points, wading through and climbing rocks. Had a monkey try to take our bag of food, thankfully it gave up after a couple of tries. It was a good job Oman had the bag as I would have given it up a lot easier. This waterfall was a lot busier but still stunning. We stopped on a fallen tree by the river to eat 'lunch', a great spot for people watching as it was where people had to wade across the river to carry onto the waterfall, some seemed very confused by this.

    On the way back we stopped at the tunnel, this is something I had seen online and wanted to try. The version I had seen was going into one of the grates on a bridge that had water from the river flowing though and kind of body surfed down. Oman wouldn't let me do that bit but I did do the tunnel which the bridge fed into. You climb into the stream at the end of the bridge and walk or float on your back through- I did a mix of both. It was pitch black in the tunnel except for the occasional gab in the wall. I only crashed once (grazed elbow by considering the bike riding without a helmet, a cut elbow from a tunnel isn't too bad). It was a shame I couldn't do the first bit (get the impression that some guides let you do it and others don't), it was a fun experience.

    We headed back after that to an afternoon of chilling and naps. At some point, Adi turned up and offered to take me to a sunset point later, almost turned it down but figured it was something to do. He picked me up at 5.30 and rode out to some random spot over some horrible roads/tracks to see a sunset that wasn't that spectacular. The view of the mountain/volcano was very impressive though. He kept getting me to take photos of him to send to him later and trying to get me to give my phone to some randomer who turned up after us so we could have a photo together, the uncomfortable feeling was still there so I brushed him off and walked a bit away. The uncomfortable feeling was not helped by him stopping to talk to random men on the way home or talking on his phone as riding down dirt tracks or trying to get me to have dinner at his friends restaurant or taking a different route home. Nothing happened but he just gave me the creeps.

    Made it back in one piece (had an impressive intent from my thumb ring where I was grabbing the bike so tight) and had some lovely curry for dinner. When I was what it was someone said papaya but not sure if that was a mistranslation or not either way it tasted amazing. Ended the evening having a shot of rice wine (the stuff burns) and sipping another whilst a local tried to convince me to do karaoke. I seemed to be the only person staying tonight so it was a lot quieter.
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  • Day 7

    Gili Trawangan

    August 15, 2023 in Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Last morning at the homestay- the 8 am ride to the port didn't happen, through breakfast with the Italian couple (rice noodles, egg and yam) I asked Jet about it, a quick phone call later and I was told 9 would be fine (8was their time in the first place). At 9 a taxi arrived and we made our merry way on, past sunning views of rice and peanut fields, with the mountains in the background and the more surreal view of hundreds of mostly women marching in their hijabs in groups of about 20, one with a number, another with a whistle and the others marching along behind. Apparently they were training to be police.
    Made it to Bangsal with enough time to pop to the shop, apparently tampons are not a thing here 🤦🏼‍♀️
    The boat ride wasn't too long, we stopped at Gili Air and Gili M before getting to Gili Trawangan where the port was rammed with people! It took ages just to get off the jetty, it was odd seeing so many people after being in the middle of nowhere for a couple of days. From the jetty I walked a short distance to the night market, the pick up point for the hostel. A little while later, a guy arrived on a bike to take me to the hostel. There are no cars on the Gili Islands so most people use push bikes, the couple of motor bikes I've seen don't seem to actually have them turned on, just push themselves along. It didn't take long to get to La Boheme Mini, it's your typical hostel, few bunk beds rammed into a room, haven't found the pool mentioned but it cost £18 for 3 nights so get what you pay for. Decided to go for a bit of a wander (so nice to actually be able to walk and explore), found a quiet bit of beach so read/napped/did nothing for a few hours- bliss!

    Headed back to the hostel for a shower (an actual shower, vaguely warm and powerful enough to wash my hair- it felt amazing) before heading out for food. Decided it had to be the night market, can't have fresh seafood on offer and not try it. The night market has a range of stalls around the edge and long communal tables in the centre. The stalls round the end fight for attention but I'm pretty sure they are the same company as all in the same shirt and same price. Each stall has loads of fish and seafood set out- live lobster, prawns, squid, colourful fish, the works. You choose what you want and they BBQ it there and then. Theres then a table full of sides; veg, noodles, spring rolls, somosas, etc, which are free. I had 4 sticks, prawns, squid, calamari and something else I can't remember- all so good! Came to 100,000 (£5).

    As the hostel, well most of the island, seems big on going out, I decided to wonder more before heading back, hoping those going out will be out. To kill time I had a traditional massage, it was similar to a Thai one, brutal but amazing. I feel like I'm going to be so brushed tomorrow but the crack from my back and each of my toes was so satisfying!

    Managed to hide myself away and slept pretty well, one other girl in my dorm didn't go out. The hostel was surprisingly quiet at night, 2 other roommates came back at 5.30 and 8 but came in really quietly.
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  • Day 8

    Bikes and beaches

    August 16, 2023 in Indonesia ⋅ 🌬 28 °C

    I planned to get up earlyish and head out, got up at 10. Had banana pancakes at the hostel (surprisingly ok) before my day exploring the island. I hired a bike for the day planned to cycle the edge of the island; this did not take long. I made it back to the centre in about an hour, that included a swim in the sea (so clear and so warm). Had lunch at the place I got collected for the hostel yesterday, Indonesian chicken with salsa like thing and rice with fresh mango juice. Feed and watered, I headed back round the island towards sunset point and spent the rest of the afternoon in the shade of a handy tree, reading, enjoying the amazing view and occasional paddling. As the tide went out, loads of coral was exposed and found a few crabs (one looked almost hairy with its camouflage) and loads of what I think we're starfish. They had long thin legs which seemed to have loads of feelers/hairs on them. Loads were half hidden in holes or under rocks, with 2 or 3 legs sticking out, others 'walking' across pools.

    Stayed to watch the sunset, which was beautiful, before heading back to the main strip for dinner. I hadn't realised that I had pretty much gone right round the island again to get to where I was (still not that far). The ride back was interesting as lots of sections has no lights, note did the people walking the roads or many of the bikes. I had the torch on my phone. Phone in hand, trying to ride over sand and potholes isn't the easiest but at one point I noticed the stats- they were so bright and clear 😍

    I had dinner at the night market again, for sticks of prawns, squid, muscle and some kind of fish. I took better advantage of the free sides this time. Back at the hostel I had planned to join anyone going into town but as luck would have it it was quiet so I got out of that, instead spent the night talking with an Italian/Morrocan girl called Aya. It was really nice chatting with her (and knowing I won't have a hangover on the boat tomorrow). I also ate a mini banana an Australian lady gave me- well, most of it. Feel that is an accomplishment in itself 😂
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  • Day 9

    🐢🐢🐢

    August 17, 2023 in Indonesia ⋅ 🌬 29 °C

    Today was all about the turtles! Went and met the tour group at 9, sorted flippers and waited as the group grew to about 40 people, thankfully we were split into 3 groups. My group's first stop was turtle spotting. This was on Gili Trawangan so it didn't take long to get to. Within minutes of jumping off the boat and into the incredibly clear and warm water we saw our first turtle! She was quite happily floating around, eating weeds. I nearly crashed into her, back swimming is not easy! Our guide gave me a piece of weed to feed to her and she took it from my hand. We also saw a smaller turtle at this stop. Embarrassingly, I threw up in the sea, not sure if it was the waves or what but felt better after 🤦🏼‍♀️

    Second stop was the underwater statues at Gili Meno. This was cool but so over crowded. We didn't stay long, our guides took us into the island to see some baby turtles that had been rescued as eggs but were not big enough for release yet. They could have fit on the palm of your hand.

    The last snorkeling spot was coral by Gili Air. Sadly it was largely bleached but saw so many fish (including parrot fish). Also saw 2 more turtles. Had a bit of a repeat of the first stop, not sure why as I was fine on the boat which was very choppy! We had lunch on Gili Air and a bit of time to wander.

    The boat back was insanely rough, they kept surfing the the biggest waves but at times it felt like we would tip out. Got completely drenched which is fine as we had just been in the sea but it's a lot less refreshing when it's more like someone chucking a bucket of water over you. Chatted to an Italian family on the way back, who were nice. If I have kids, I definitely want to take them to places like this family.

    In the evening I went to an open air cinema and watched Finding Nemo (fitting considering how I spent the day). It was free to watch on these big beanbags and the coconut mojito and pizza I ordered made a great night. The way there I walked a different way, cutting across the middle of the island. It was interesting to see the difference between the loc area and the tourist bit, the locals seem to leave damage properties and not clear the sites until they are going to be repurposed so seems a lot messier. The way back I took the longer route along the road as the bit in the middle would have been pitch black. The stars were amazing to see.
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  • Day 10

    Gili to Bali

    August 18, 2023 in Indonesia ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Another day, another boat. Today taking me from Gili T back to Bali. The trip was fine once I blocked out the obnoxious/drunk Australians who had been drinking since at least 10am and continued on the boat, even causing us a bit of a delay as the crew had to go get another crate of beer for them. Made it back to Bali no problem, slept most of the way and had a car take me to the next hotel. It's called Duyung Homestay but is definitely not a homestay, I have my own little villa with a really comfy bed and an actual hot shower. Wasn't feeling 100% but went for a walk along the seafront which helped. Not sure why, but there were loads of kites being flown (need to find out why), really impressive- stupidly high and random shapes like a mosquito. Stopped for dinner on the way back before walking through the shallows back to the hotel. Found loads of starfish (huge ones) and freaky sea worms that looked like aliens.Read more

  • Day 11

    More snorkeling fun 🤿

    August 19, 2023 in Indonesia ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    At 7, I made my way to the seafront (3 min walk) for collection and was the first one so got to sit and enjoy the early morning sun waiting for everyone. Today I'd booked a day tour snorkeling with manta rays and land tour of Nusa Penida, an island just off the coast of Bali. As soon as we passed the reef, it was super rough, the waves were huge!

    First stop was Manta Bay, unfortunately we didn't see any mantas but did see dolphins (apparently the dolphins scare the manta rays away). Next we did a short snorkeling stop in a calmer bit, it was cool riding around the island as it looked really prehistoric, all rocks, caves and waterfalls with huge crashing waves beating against it.

    The third stop was cool, we did drift snorkeling. Drift snorkeling is literally, jump in and let the current carry you along whilst looking at the underwater world below. We did this at 'the wall' (it was right under a cliff edge).

    Next up was lunch. As lunch was included, I was expecting some crappy meal where we had to pay for everything extra but once we got off the boat, took a quick walk through some random streets to the cars, we were taken to an amazing hotel. The hotel was set into the cliff, overlooking other islands with an infinity pool and a gateway (part of a Hindu temple). We ordered from a set menu then we were allowed to use the pool, it was amazing! The views were spectacular. Me and another woman, Georgia, grabbed some pictures at the temple before enjoying the pool.

    After lunch, we went to Kelingking beach which has this beautiful rock formation that is meant to look like a dinosaur. When we first walked up, it was rammed, thankfully our guide told us to walk up a few minutes. Gald be did, as it was empty with stunning views, and a few monkeys thrown in.

    Next up was Angle Billabong and Broken beach, both beautiful but really crowded. At Broken beach you can walk completely around the top, looking into a pool formed by the sea that is insanely blue.

    Last stop was another bit of drift snorkeling, this time we went 2km in a gentle current. Saw loads of fish and more sea turtles. It's a weird sensation letting the current take you but it was very relaxing.

    Then back- back through the giant waves (two of the Australians were getting so drenched, they sat there with the snorkel masks on. Made it back at low tide so had to wade back in (saw a couple more star fish). All in all, despite not seeing the mantas, it was a really good day. Having a nice group helped.
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