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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    This quaint post office dates back to 1903 — Chicken, AK.
    It's all about chickens here — Chicken Post Office, AK.Alaska humor ... sign in the post office window — Chicken, AK.Pine Grosbeak exploring the dredge with us — Chicken, AK.Info board explaining the operation — Jack Wade Dredge Exhibit in Chicken, AKThe Draw Works — Jack Wade Dredge Exhibit in Chicken, AKThe trommel screen where the gold was captured — Jack Wade Dredge Exhibit in Chicken, AKGears — Jack Wade Dredge Exhibit in Chicken, AKThe Lever System — Jack Wade Dredge Exhibit in Chicken, AKShowy Jacob's Ladder — Chicken Post Office, AK.

    Chicken: Post Ofc & Gold Dredge

    16. juni 2021, Forenede Stater ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Today’s plan was to hop in the toad and explore Chicken ... 15 miles up the road from our campground. We’d heard horror stories about potholes and frost heaves on theTaylor Highway. We found both, but except in a few places, repairs had already been made.

    Our first stop was at the Chicken Post Office, which dates back to 1903. Not because we had any business to transact, but because bits and pieces of the Jack Wade Dredge are exhibited nearby. Turns out that we were charmed by the log cabin post office, and its little garden, and the chicken memorabilia tucked into nooks and crannies.

    The dredge was sent up here in 1906-1907 from Dawson City, in Canada’s Yukon Territory, by way of the Fortymile River. A bucket line dredge, it was one of the first to operate in the local mining district that is described as being the place of the 1886 Gold Rush before “the Gold Rush” ... the latter being a reference to the Klondike Gold Rush of 1896.

    The dredge was apparently dismantled by the BLM and moved here in 2007. Having already seen a dredge of this kind on the Steese Highway, we appreciated the well-done info board nearby that explained how it was used to mine gold.    Læs mere

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    4Site 22 @ the Westfork BLM Campground — Taylor Hwy, AK.
    2Site 22 @ the Westfork BLM Campground — Taylor Hwy, AK.Site 22 @ the Westfork BLM Campground — Taylor Hwy, AK.Site 22 ... view of the lake below @ the Westfork BLM Campground — Taylor Hwy, AK.Site 22 ... enjoying a campfire @ the Westfork BLM Campground — Taylor Hwy, AK.Beaver swimming in the lake below @ the Westfork BLM Campground — Taylor Hwy, AK.

    Day 44 Ends @ Westfork BLM Cg

    15. juni 2021, Forenede Stater ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Test

    When we left Delta Junction, we knew two things. One, that we would be traveling the Alaska Highway as far as the Tetlin Junction. Two, that we would be traveling the Taylor Highway ... at least to a point near Chicken, if not to Chicken itself.

    No sooner had we left Delta Junction that we came upon a moose grazing roadside. Though we’ve encountered many moose already, we still stop for a photo ... if the animal allows it. This one did not. Very skittish, as soon as he heard us coming down the highway, it moved into the willows and disappeared out of sight. That’s OK ... we still got to record the encounter in our memories.

    The Taylor Highway was in better shape than we expected it to be. Yes, there were frost heaves and potholes, but the worst of it had been repaired, making the drive more comfortable than expected.

    Along the way, we checked out some of the boondock spots, but none appealed. We really needed a campground where we could leave the Cruiser tomorrow to go check out Chicken. Luckily, we found a great place.

    The Westfork BLM Campground is at Mile 49 of the Taylor. It has two sections ... one with six pull through sites ... and another with a bunch of back-in sites. We partially settled into a pull through, but when we went to pay the fee — $5/night with our Lifetime Senior National Park Service Pass — we decided to first check out the back-in sites.

    That turned out to be an excellent idea. We found site #22 ... almost dead center in the loop ... great big patio space with a bench, fire ring, and a picnic table ... good sun exposure for the solar panels ... and best of all, an amazing view. One of the best campsites we’ve ever stayed in. I didn’t even have to coax Mui into moving. A bonus ... free wood for campfires! As well, though the sun doesn’t seem to set this time of the year, here it did go behind a mountain, so the light isn’t as bright and more conducive to a good night’s rest.

    Yes, the mosquitoes were swarming, but not as bad as they had been in the first loop. A nice breeze, our Thermacell device, and a campfire kept them at bay so that we could enjoy our evening outside. And though no moose visited the lake below the campground, I did get to see a beaver swimming down there.    Læs mere

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Mui makes a new friend — Delta Junction, AK.
    Good food ... good service ... but the milkshakes were the star — Buffalo Center Drive-In.2Colorful flowers — Delta Junction, AK.

    Work & Food in Delta Junction

    15. juni 2021, Forenede Stater ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    Today was moving day. Our ultimate destination TBD.

    Any other day, we would have gotten on the road by 9:00a. Not today. You see, we both had things to on our to-do list that required high speed internet ... something we were lacking at the Big Delta SHP campsite.

    So, around 9:30 we headed south on the Richardson Highway to Delta Junction ... to take advantage of the strong GCI signal, which our T-Mobile plan allows us to access at no additional cost.

    We found and out-of-the way spot in the Visitor Center parking lot, opened the windows and doors to enjoy the fresh air, and went to work. Feels good to get things checked off.

    Seeing as how we were still in town around 1:00p, we decided to have lunch in Delta Junction. Where to go? The Buffalo Center Drive-In, of course. Great food. And the milk shakes ... well, they were out-of-this-world delicious.    Læs mere

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Mui, who's supposed to be napping, catches me working on footprints — Big Delta SHP, AK.

    Day 43 Ends @ Big Delta SHP

    14. juni 2021, Forenede Stater ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    After our late lunch at the Buffalo Center Drive-In — sorry, no photos — we returned to our campsite at the Big Delta State Historical Park for a quiet afternoon at home.

    It was a lovely afternoon ... temps warm enough to be outside without layers. Blue skies and sunshine. I decided to brave the mosquitoes ... with the help of my bug jacket.

    The Thermacell device and a couple of mosquito coils, placed strategically, created a mostly-mosquito-free zone. We deployed the awning, moved the picnic table under it, and I spent some quiet time reading and writing. We even managed to have a rare al fresco dinner out.

    A great way to end our day.    Læs mere

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Our bug jackets keep us from getting carried off by the mosquitoes — Delta Junction VC, AK.
    The 1390-mile Alaska Highway, which starts in Canada, officially ends in Delta Junction, AK.Oooops ... watch for the wild her of plains bison that range in the area — Delta Junction VC, AK.The herd of plains bison that ranges in the area were transplanted here in 1979 — Delta JunctionPopular "Farming in Alaska" t-shirts — Delta Junction VC, AK.Historic photo of the Sullivan Roadhouse ... at the roadhouse museum in Delta Junction, AK.Then ... and now — Sullivan Roadhouse in Delta Junction, AK.

    Delta Junction: This & That

    14. juni 2021, Forenede Stater ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    Before lunch, which we ate at the Buffalo Drive-In (good food, by the way), we wandered around to a few places in Delta Junction.

    First stop was at the visitor center to see if our “bug jackets” would keep us safe from the giant mosquitoes. We’re still here, so they must have done the trick ;-)

    Then, we crossed over to the Sullivan Roadhouse, which was built in 1905 to provide services to travelers on the 386-mile Valdez-Fairbanks Trail. When the trail moved 4.5 miles closer to the Little Delta River, the owners dismantled the roadhouse and moved it too.

    Today, the roadhouse remains in near original condition, but it’s not where it used to be. Apparently, the location where it sat is now part of Fort Greeley. Concerned that it could go up in flames during live ammunition training, the cabin was dismantled and choppered by the US Army to its new location across the road from the Delta Junction Visitor Center.    Læs mere

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Alaska Range ... from the public burn site in Delta Junction, AK.
    Alaska Range ... from the public burn site in Delta Junction, AK.Mount Moffat ... Alaska Range ... from the public burn site in Delta Junction, AK.Mount Hayes ... Alaska Range ... from the public burn site in Delta Junction, AK.Alaska Range ... from the public burn site in Delta Junction, AK.

    Alaska Range from the Dry River Flats

    14. juni 2021, Forenede Stater ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Spying the Alaska Range as we crossed the Tanana River Bridge, I remembered reading that there were good views of the snow-covered peaks from the day use area of the Delta River State Rec Site along the Richardson Highway.

    Turns out the views from there were mostly blocked by trees. But across the road was a public “burn site” that had good views ... and just a few hundred yards from there, following a rocky path, the dry river bed had even better views ... wide open.    Læs mere

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    A "Trans-Alaska Pipeline @ the Tanana River" selfie — Big Delta SHP, AK.
    The river crossing of the Tanana with the traffic bridge behind it — Big Delta SHP, AK.The Trans-Alaska Pipeline Tanana River Crossing — Richardson Hwy Interpretive Turnout, AK.The Trans-Alaska Pipeline Tanana River Crossing — Richardson Hwy Interpretive Turnout, AK.The TransAlaska Pipeline makes a turn after crossing the Tanana River — Richardson Hwy, AK.

    There’s the Pipeline ... Again

    14. juni 2021, Forenede Stater ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    Over the course of its 800-mile route, the Trans-Alaska Pipeline crosses 500+ rivers ... 34 of them major bodies of water.

    In most cases, the pipeline is buried under the river bed. That simply wasn’t possible with the fast-flowing Tanana River. The scouring effect of the silt carried by the rushing water also made burying the pipeline impossible.

    Instead, at this point along the Tanana River, which is just up the Richardson Highway near the Big Delta SHP, the pipeline is suspended by steel cables between two towers. At 1,200 feet, This is the second longest river crossing the pipeline makes ... the longest being the one at the Yukon River, which we saw in 2001. It’s an interesting sight to see ... especially standing under it.

    The Tanana Pipeline Bridge is designed to withstand an earthquake of magnitude 7.5, temperatures as low as -60F, and winds up to 100 mph.    Læs mere

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    A "we visited Rika's Roadhouse" selfie @ the Big Delta SHP near Delta Junction, AK.
    An additional wing was added to the roadhouse in 1926 @ the Big Delta SHP near Delta Junction, AK.Welcome to Rika's Roadhouse @ the Big Delta SHP near Delta Junction, AK.Rika's Roadhouse @ the Big Delta SHP near Delta Junction, AK.Rika's Roadhouse @ the Big Delta SHP near Delta Junction, AK.For extra coin, one could get a hot bath@ Rika's Roadhouse ... Big Delta SHP near Delta Junction, AKRika's Roadhouse @ the Big Delta SHP near Delta Junction, AK.Rika's Roadhouse @ the Big Delta SHP near Delta Junction, AK.Some of the other structures @ the Big Delta SHP near Delta Junction, AK.

    Big Delta SHP & Rika’s Roadhouse

    14. juni 2021, Forenede Stater ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    I’ll start out by saying that we had a visitor last night. It was well past 11:00p when I heard a noise that sounded like a herd of elephants crashing through the brush. Turns out it was a porcupine coming to check us out. No photo alas. As soon as it noticed us at the screen door, it turned tail and crashed back into the brush.

    Our first stop this morning didn’t require a drive as it was the Big Delta State Historical Park where we are camping.

    This is an unattended park ... admission fees paid at a kiosk ... based on an honor system. Our camping fee of $20/night included two passes, so no additional fees due on our part.

    In addition to a barn, an outbuilding with a sod roof (that serves as a museum), and two buildings that used to belong to WAMCATS (Washington-Alaska Military Cable & Telegraph System), the main attraction at the park is Rika’s Roadhouse, which was built in 1910. It was purchased by Rita in 1923. A stopover on the historic Valdez-Fairbanks Trail, it served travelers until 1947 ... providing them with a place to sleep, a bite to eat, and a hot bath and other amenities.    Læs mere

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    It's not dark out ... just the result of shooting into the sun — Tanana River from the Big Delta SHP
    Site 32 @ the Big Delta SHP near Delta Junction — Richardson Hwy, AK.Site 32 @ the Big Delta SHP near Delta Junction — Richardson Hwy, AK.

    Day 42 Ends @ Big Delta SHP

    13. juni 2021, Forenede Stater ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    When we left Summit Lake, we figured we’d boondock somewhere along the Richardson. But Mui had taken a nap and felt refreshed enough to drive the 75 miles or so back to Delta Junction. That worked with my desire to camp at the Clearwater State Recreation Site, which the Milepost described as having some of the prettiest campsites in Alaska. Hah!

    The drive north was uneventful. We had a light summer shower for a mile or two ... the sun never stopped shining. We made a few stops, but we’d already dallied along the road on the way south, so I didn’t take very many photos.

    When we arrived in Delta Junction, we stopped off to top off the fuel and propane, dump the tanks, and take on potable water. Then we put the Clearwater SRS address in the GPS and got on the road. I sensed something was wrong when the GPS told us to get on the Alaska Highway! Hmmmm. Maybe there was another entrance. So we went along with Ms GPS’s instructions.

    Turns out, the GPS had routed us down the long way. Not only that, it said we had arrived when we reached a junction in the road, with no SRS in sight. Luckily, a friendly woman who told us she was used to helping RV’ers get “un-lost” in their quest to reach Clearwater, gave us directions.

    In the end, we arrived at the SRS ... and to total disappointment. Not only were the RV campsites no different than any others — just tucked into the woodlands — but also the one-way loop hole was horrendous ... and I mean really horrendous. With no choice but to keep going, we hoped against hope that we’d get to the “prettiest sites” eventually. No such luck. Perhaps tenters have better sites.

    So, we got back on the road, this time using the diagram in the Milepost, to get back to the Richardson. Now what? We had not seen anywhere in Delta Junction to boondock, except maybe in a parking lot somewhere. And we didn’t feel like going to the campground we’d passed on the Alaska Highway.

    By this time, it was 8:30p. So, we headed north on the Richardson to the Big Delta State Historical Park, which offers overnight RV parking. We planned to explore the park anyway, so this worked out for us.

    Now, we’re settled into the site near the fee station — $20/night. This place is little more than parking lot camping, too. But the setting is nice, with woods on the patio side ... a fire ring, and a picnic table. We have the best site and the whole place to ourselves. The remaining sites are back in ... every other one blocked off with a picnic table ... rather narrow. More back-in RV sites are across the gravel road ... no amenities. The rest area on the side road has a dump and potable water. Life is good.

    We’ve decided to stay an extra night here and explore the area from this base before moving on down the Alaska Highway.    Læs mere

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    2Yesterday and today ... from almost the same spot — Summit Lake on the Richardson Hwy, AK.
    I'm in reflection heaven — Summit Lake on the Richardson Hwy, AK.1More double the pleasure reflections — Summit Lake on the Richardson Hwy, AK.Ice and gulls — Summit Lake on the Richardson Hwy, AK.What happened to the pond-calm lake — Summit Lake on the Richardson Hwy, AK.No ice ... no reflections ... but a good boondock site anyway — Summit Lake ... Richardson Hwy, AK.Wine & snacks with a view — Summit Lake on the Richardson Hwy, AK.The brilliant scenery starts to turn dull as the clouds move in — Summit Lake, AK.

    Summit Lake Boondock Becomes Daydock

    13. juni 2021, Forenede Stater ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    When we drove along Summit Lake yesterday, we fell in love with the ice-scape, and decided to move to one of the lakeside turnouts to boondock there for a night. We even picked a spot we liked, though I suspected that it might be a boat launch. We would figure it out today.

    We were in no hurry to leave our Isabel Pipeline Camp boondock this morning, so we took our time. I even managed to sit out in the sun for my morning tea since there was no wind blowing. Then, around 10:00a, we left for Summit Lake ... just a few short miles south on the Richardson.

    What a shock! Where was all the ice? It had disappeared overnight. In its stead, we found pond-calm conditions and amazing reflections. As we checked out the various turnouts again, I took the opportunity to take photos. A decision that proved smart!

    When we got to the site that I suspected was a boat launch, we found all the ice in that corner of the lake, brought there by the currents and prevailing winds. We also found two RVs already at the site ... preparing to put boats in the water. Suspicions confirmed, I took a few photos and we turned around to one of the other turnouts.

    We settled in quickly ... pulled out our camp chairs ... and decided to have our wine and snacks for lunch since we suspected that the temps would make it too cold to sit out at dinner time. Hah! By then we were long gone from the site.

    Yup, jiggled our plans again. Why? It wasn’t the traffic on the Richardson. That was nil ... mostly campers going back home for the work week. No, the distant clouds that were dumping rain had begun gathering above us. The wind was whipping up, too ... though there were moments of calm. Not quite the conditions we had anticipated for our stay.

    So, after having enjoyed the boondock site for about five hours, we decided to head back north up the Richardson. No real plans ... we’d stop where we felt like doing so.    Læs mere

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    This view of Gulkana Glacier from Denali Hwy changes our evening plans.
    Meltwater on the road ... we're on foot from here — Gulkana Glacier Hike, AK.1That's more than just meltwater ... methinks — Gulkana Glacier Hike, AK.Proof that I managed to cross the bridge over Phelan Creek — Gulkana Glacier Hike, AK.We finally spy the path across the lateral moraine — Gulkana Glacier Hike, AK.We can see the terminus ... we won't be walking to it — Gulkana Glacier Hike, AK.A "we did the Gulkana Glacier hike" selfie.Mui crossing the bridge back — Gulkana Glacier Hike, AK.I did say that the bridge was wobbly — Gulkana Glacier Hike, AK.

    Day 41 Ends with a Glacier Hike

    12. juni 2021, Forenede Stater ⋅ ⛅ 45 °F

    It was the view of Gulkana Glacier from the Denali Highway that decided our next move ... the one that would lengthen our day of exploration by three hours.

    We ended up not only driving a mile further into the boonies from our site at Isabel Pass, but we then also did a three-mile hike to the glacier. Double all those distances for the return! Good thing it doesn’t get dark this time of the year.

    The description I had read of the Gulkana Glacier hike said to drive the Isabel Pipeline Camp Road as far as we could, park the car, and continue on foot from there. The question was, how much further could we go? After all, we’d already driven about 1.5 miles to get to the spot where we were boondocking.

    Turns out that we could have shortened the hike by driving another mile from where we decided to park the car, but the meltwater running down the road scared us off. No matter, we needed the exercise.

    We walked on the rocky road best we could, staying right when the road branched off ... only because we figured the glacier was somewhere in that direction.

    When we came to Phelan Creek, which headwaters at the glacier, we found the “bridge” mentioned in the description of the hike. It was a wobbly thing over a fast-flowing creek with deep, silty water. It consisted of some guy wires, braided steel handrails (if you can call them that) and unevenly spaced wooden slats. Yikes. But we managed to cross over without mishap ... whew!

    Then we started climbing the hill mentioned in the description. Fighting our way through some heavy brush, that snagged on everything, we eventually found a path of sorts ... visible only by looking into the distance. All part of the adventure, right?

    We didn’t make it all the way to the glacier’s terminus. For one thing, from where we stopped, the terminus was still at least two miles away. For another thing, storm clouds were gathering in the direction from which we had come. Sure, we had rain gear on, but the rocky path would be a little too slippery if we were caught in a downpour. Not to mention what the rain might do to the level of the meltwater on the road. Besides it was already 7:00p ... it had taken us nearly two hours to just get to this point.

    So, we turned back. Having made note of landmarks along the way, we negotiated the path back without getting into the brush, wobbled our way across the bridge, and walked the rocky road back to where we had left the toad in record time ... one hour. Yay!

    We can now add wilderness hiking to our resume!    Læs mere

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    A sweet guard dog at Maclaren Lodge — Denali Hwy, AK.
    Swallows building nests under the Maclaren Bridge — Denali Hwy, AK.Short clip of swallows building nests under the Maclaren Bridge — Denali Hwy, AK.Lunch with a view — Denali Hwy, AK.One of the many lakes accessible off the main road — Denali Hwy, AK.Clearwater Creek ... rough and rowdy — Denali Hwy, AK.Shy moose calf grazing in the willows — Denali Hwy, AK.Mama moose keeping an eye on her calf — Denali Hwy, AK.Arctic lupines along the road — Denali Hwy, AK.

    Denali Hwy: Part II ... and More

    12. juni 2021, Forenede Stater ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    Too many photos to share from our day on the Denali Highway ... hence, a second footprint.

    I regret, a bit, that we didn’t get to do the entire road ... but it is what it is. We have so much more to explore.Læs mere

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Expansive view of the Alaska Range & Seventeen Mile Lake — Denali Hwy, AK.
    Mountain views along the Denali Hwy, AK.Mount Hayes & the Maclaren Glacier — Denali Hwy, AK.Alaska Range along the Denali Hwy, AK.Maclaren River — Denali Hwy, AK.Mt Hayes & Maclaren Glacier from the Maclaren Bridge — Denali Hwy, AK.View of the Alaska Range from the Maclaren Summit — Denali Hwy, AK.1Closer look at the Alaska Range from the Maclaren Summit — Denali Hwy, AK.A distant peak and glacier in the Alaska Range — Denali Hwy, AK.

    Denali Hwy: Part I ... Mountains Galore

    12. juni 2021, Forenede Stater ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    Denali Highway is a 134-mile road that connects Paxson, on the Richardson Highway, with Cantwell, on the Parks Highway.

    When we first began planning our road trip, we intended to leave Anchorage and drive up to Paxson via the Glenn and Richardson highways ... then turn east and drive the length of the Denali Highway to join the Parks Highway. And head north to Denali National Park from there.

    We didn’t do that. Why? Denali Highway doesn’t open for the season until 15 May or thereabouts. Our departure from Anchorage on the 19th was just a tad too early then to be on that road ... a road that is only 15% paved ... and one that is described as giving visitors a true wilderness experience.

    So, we jiggled our plans, did about 8 miles of the road from Cantwell ... to boondock at Joe Lake. And left the rest of the driving for this part of our trip.

    Remember how this drive was supposed to be just for the purpose of checking out the Tangle Lakes Campground and some boondock sites?

    Well, while the campground is nice, it didn’t ring our bell. Nor did the primitive camping sites mentioned in the Milepost. We should have turned back at that point to do our glacier hike as planned. Instead, we kept going on the Denali Highway. After all, we’d already driven 25 miles of the road. Why not move up our exploration of Denali Highway to today? Why not indeed?

    We had no idea how far we’d be driving. If the gravel/chipseal portion was as good later as it was at the beginning, we might even go all the way to the other end and back. That didn’t turn out to be the case, however. Around the 50-mile mark, the gravel became rough, with lots of potholes. Add to that the slushy rain we got along the way and the gathering storm clouds. Nope, not going to drive all the way. In the end, we did 70 miles before turning back.

    The scenery along much of the road was as spectacular as we’d been told, and the frequent stops to take photos made for a long day ... but we didn’t know then that it was going to become even longer.    Læs mere

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    A "we enjoyed Summit Lake" selfie — Richardson Highway, AK.
    A "we enjoyed Summit Lake" selfie — Richardson Highway, AK.Panorama of icy Summit Lake — Highway, AK.Hoping for an aerial view, I climbed a steep road but only got a partial view because of the brush.Icy Summit Lake from the boat launch turnout — Richardson Highway, AK.Icy Summit Lake from the boat launch turnout — Richardson Highway, AK.1Panoramic video of Summit Lake — Richardson Hwy, AK.

    Icy Summit Lake

    12. juni 2021, Forenede Stater ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    We woke up thinking we would hike to Gulkana Glacier this morning. But the river of ice was in the shade and it would stay that way most of the morning.

    So, we postponed the hike and decided to go for a drive with the toad ... check out Tangle Lakes Campground on the Denali Highway and see if we wanted to move there on Sunday ... compare the campground to some of the boondock sites to see if one of them might be preferable.

    But before we got there, we had a spectacular spot to enjoy — Summit Lake!

    Seven miles long, the lake is right alongside the Richardson Highway ... making for easy viewing. The lake gets its name from its location near the water divide that drains the Gulkana River into the Copper River ... which empties into Prince William Sound. In the other direction, the Delta River flows into the Tanana ... which then joins the Yukon ... which empties into the Bering Sea.

    We’d heard that Summit Lake had a beautiful setting. What we didn’t expect was all the ice floes — thin ones, admittedly — covering parts of the lake. A late break up? Or was the ice coming down one of the rivers? No one to ask the question. No one to answer the question. No matter ... we can’t resist ice ... so we dallied here for a while before continuing down the road.    Læs mere

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Our boondock is going to be somewhere down there — Isabel Pass on the Richardson Hwy, AK.
    The Gulkana Glacier is in the notch in the middle — Isabel Pass Boondock on the Richardson Hwy, AK.A "we are boondocking at the old Isabel Pipeline Camp" selfie — Richardson Hwy, AK.The Cruiser & Toad like camping with a view — Isabel Pass on the Richardson Hwy, AK.A 180 of our Isabel Pass Boondock (taken the next morning) — Richardson Highway, AK.

    Day 40 Ends @ a Boondock w/Glacier Views

    11. juni 2021, Forenede Stater ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F

    When we left Fairbanks this morning, we had no particular destination in mind. Our loose plan was to head down the Richardson Hwy to Paxson or thereabouts ... boondock somewhere along either the Richardson or the Denali highways or camp at Tangle Lakes Campground where the Denali Highway switches from pavement to gravel.

    What we ended up doing instead essentially upended our plans as the boondock we settled on at Isabel Pass was supposed to happen on our way back north on the Richardson.

    It was the view from a turnout of that did the trick ... mountains and Gulkana Glacier ... wide expanses of open land. It’s a decision that we are happy with ... one that will, as a bonus, give us a few additional days for a slower pace later in our trip.

    The drive to get to our boondock where the former Isabel Pipeline Camp used to be was rough gravel, but we bravely ventured forward. Slow and easy. We passed three other campers, but all were dispersed and didn’t take away from the feeling of being “alone” in the wilderness.

    We went just far enough that we had an unobstructed view of the scenery without losing sight of the glacier, which is perched atop Ice Fall Peak. Our spot, we think, was once the concrete foundation of one of the old pipeline camp buildings ... made it easy to level ourselves.

    Nothing like a peaceful boondock to end a day on the road.    Læs mere

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Glimpse of the Alaska Range on the Richardson Highway, AK.
    Mountain & lake scenery along the Richardson Highway, AK.More of the Alaska Range from the Richardson Highway, AK.Aptly named Rainbow Ridge & McCallum Creek — Richardson Hwy, AK.Rainbow Ridge — along the Richardson Hwy, AK.

    Mountains & Rivers Along the Richardson

    11. juni 2021, Forenede Stater ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    The Richardson Highway is some 366 miles long. It connects Valdez in the south with Fairbanks in the north. Much of the road is rightfully designated an Alaska Scenic Byway.

    Today we drove only about 167 miles of the Richardson. A long enough distance for Mui to say that thus far it is his favorite amongst the roads we’ve driven on this trip. I have to agree. The mountains ... the streams, creeks, and rivers. They all added to our pleasure. As did the nice weather-day that ranged from cloudy, to partly cloudy, to partly sunny, to full sunshine.

    We’ll be driving a few more miles of this road tomorrow, but the section south from Paxson is going to have to wait until later in our trip.    Læs mere

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    The Trans-Alaska Pipeline — Richardson Highway, AK.
    2The Trans-Alaska Pipeline & the Alaska Range — Richardson Highway, AK.The Trans-Alaska Pipeline & the Alaska Range — Richardson Highway, AK.The Trans-Alaska Pipeline coming southbound down a hill — Richardson Highway, AK.The Trans-Alaska Pipeline — Richardson Highway, AK.

    Alyeska on the Richardson Highway

    11. juni 2021, Forenede Stater ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    When a pipeline stretches 800 miles — from one end of the state to the other — one is bound to encounter glimpses of it here and there.

    When we traveled the Dalton Highway in 2001 — from Fairbanks to Deadhorse on the Arctic Ocean — the Trans-Alaska Pipeline, aka the Alyeska Pipeline, was a constant companion. On our road trip this year, we’ve so far seen it on the Elliott and the Steese highways ... and today, on the Richardson Highway.

    I wonder how many more times we’ll be saying “look there’s the pipeline again.” After all, we still have a lot of miles to cover until we reach the pipeline terminus in Valdez.    Læs mere

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Meet "Alasquito" @ the Knotty Shop — Richardson Hwy, AK.
    2Colorful flower baskets on the port of the Knotty Shop — Richardson Hwy, AK.Lynx and ptarmigan are part of the wildlife display @ the Knotty Shop — Richardson Hwy, AK.

    Meet Alasquito

    11. juni 2021, Forenede Stater ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    A few miles south of North Pole is a gift shop — the Knotty Shop ... not to be confused with “the Naughty Shop.” It’s right off the Richardson Highway ... easy in ... easy out.

    Seldom do we stop at places like this. We made an exception this time because I had read that the burl sculptures in the front yard made for a good photo op. That’s where we made the acquaintance of “Alasquito.”

    Since we had stopped anyway, we wandered into the shop. Not to buy any knick-knacks mind you. Mui had noticed the ice cream sign!    Læs mere

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Caught Santa kissing Mrs Claus — Santa House @ North Pole, Alaska.
    Christmas themed tile murals decorate the exterior of the Santa Claus House — North Pole, AK.We're smiling because we're not on Santa's naughty list — Santa House @ North Pole, Alaska.Getting cozy with Mr & Mrs Snowman — Santa House @ North Pole, Alaska.Santa's 100+ year-old sleigh — Santa House @ North Pole, Alaska.

    North Pole: Not on the Naughty List

    11. juni 2021, Forenede Stater ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    We’ve been to the North Pole twice now.

    The first time was with a nuclear icebreaker ... in 2014. That trip was to the “real” North Pole ... at the tippy top of the world.

    Today, our second visit, was to North Pole, Alaska ... right off the Richardson Highway. It’s where the tag line reads, “Where the spirit of Christmas lives year round.” It has streetlights painted to resemble candy canes. It has street names such as St Nicholas Drive and Mistletoe Drive. It has places named the North Pole Hotel, the Santa Claus House, and the Antler Academy ... this last one is where Santa’s reindeer reside when they are not flying around the world!

    From what I understand, the developers so named the place in the hopes of attracting a toy manufacturer that could rightly say that their toys were made at the North Pole. I don’t think the plan worked.

    Anyway, after a quick peek at the Santa Claus House, where we purchased an ornament for our Xmas tree, we continued down the Richardson Highway    Læs mere

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    A "we are at the Fountainhead AAM" selfie — Fairbanks, AK.
    1917 Ford Model T Snow Flyer — Fountainhead AAM in Fairbanks, AK.1910 Stanley Model R Steam Roadster — Fountainhead AAM in Fairbanks, AK.1911 Ford Model T C-Cab Depot Hack — Fountainhead AAM in Fairbanks, AK.1919 McFarlan ... owned by W. Reid, the "American Valentino of Silent Movies" — Fountainhead AAM.1927 Lincoln Model L Imperial Victoria — Fountainhead AAM in Fairbanks, AK.1920 Argonne Model D 2-Pax Roadster — Fountainhead AAM in Fairbanks, AK.1932 Chrysler Imperial Series CL Convertivle Sedan — Fountainhead AAM in Fairbanks, AK.1904 Buckmobile Runabout — Fountainhead AAM in Fairbanks, AK.Beautiful clothes accompany beautiful cars — Fountainhead AAM in Fairbanks, AK.

    Day 39 Ends with Antique Autos

    10. juni 2021, Forenede Stater ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    Today — our last day in Fairbanks — we went to see the Fountainhead Antique Auto Museum. Having seen other museums of a similar nature, we almost did not go. But I had a 2-for-1 coupon in my Alaska TourSaver app, reducing the price to $15 for the two of us, so we figured we would check it out.

    The museum is on the grounds of the Wedgewood Resort. The cars on display are considered historically significant ... all produced in the US prior to WWII. One of the featured cars is the first one in Alaska ... from when it was still a territory. The vehicles represent developmental achievements in the auto industry ... from steam to electric. All but three of the cars are in full operational condition and go out for drive every so often.

    In addition to the autos, there are historic photos of vehicles in Alaska decorating the walls. And an interesting addition is a collection of vintage clothes on display ... matching the model year of the cars.    Læs mere

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Picnic ... with a view through the windshield — Chena Hot Springs Road, AK.
    Beautiful pond-scape; too bad the moose didn't stick around — Chena Hot Springs Road, AK.Dwarf Dogwood — Chena Hot Springs Road, AK.Birch Grove — Chena Hot Springs Road, AK.Plenty of rusty stuff around the Chena Hot Springs Resort — Alaska.The Ice Museum @ the Chena Hot Springs Resort — Alaska.The Ice Museum @ the Chena Hot Springs Resort — Alaska.Mui enjoying a dip in the hot springs pool — Chena Hot Springs Resort, AK.A relaxed sled dog at the kennels of the Chena Hot Springs Resort — Alaska.Mui gets a bison head ... I get a carved bear — Chena Hot Springs Resort, AK.

    Day 38 Ends @ Chena Hot Springs

    9. juni 2021, Forenede Stater ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Our original plan called for us to take the Cruiser to Chena Hot Springs after we leave Fairbanks, stay overnight, and then continue on with our road trip. We changed those plans a few days ago and decided to drive the 56 miles x2 as a day trip. Turns out that was a good decision.

    The Chena Hot Springs Road has got to be the worst road of our trip thus far ... except for the section of the Steese between Central & Circle. Not only is there a section of the road being torn up completely for re-paving, but also about half the road is nothing but frost heaves. It made for a very washboardy drive.

    A picnic overlooking one of the many ponds along the road ... eaten, alas, in the car due to the mosquitoes; a wander amongst ice sculptures at the Ice Museum ... we skipped the appletinis served in glasses carved out of ice; a dip in the hot springs pool ... Mui went on his own as I’m not much for pools (thermal or otherwise); a wander around the resort grounds and a visit to the kennels ... while I was waiting for Mui; dinner at the lodge restaurant ... excellent halibut fish & chips.

    And that wraps up today’s visit to the Chena Hot Springs.    Læs mere

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Dinner @ the Pump House — Fairbanks, AK.
    The Pump House overlooks the Chena River — Fairbanks, AK.1A tasty meal @ the Pump House — Fairbanks, AK.Your Heart Is Mine ... My Heart is Yours — my interpretation ... @ the Pump House in Fairbanks, AK.

    Day 37 Ends @ the Pump House

    8. juni 2021, Forenede Stater ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    Mui chipped a tooth while we were @ Denali NP. Nothing serious, but he wanted to have it checked out to make sure there wasn’t an underlying issue that needed to be looked at.

    This morning was his appointment, so we set the day aside for further provisioning, chores, and errands, including a haircut for me. The wait at the barber was too long, so Mui’s going to try again for his cut tomorrow when the shop opens up.

    The weather was overcast and much cooler today ... with occasional rain showers ... one of which started just as we arrived at the Pump House for dinner. No al fresco dining on the terrace as planned.

    The restaurant is housed in a reconstructed pump house associated with gold mining operations in the area ... with an ambiance reminiscent of “... an 1890s Gold Rush motif and atmosphere which was associated with the ‘Rip Roaring’ but still Victorian Era in Fairbanks.” The place was hopping — especially the Oyster Bar in the Senator’s Saloon. Glad we had a reservation ... sorry we didn’t get to dine with a view of the Chena River.

    ————————————

    For those interested in such things ... Mui ordered a red Zinfandel from Oregon; I ordered the Kassik’s Beaver Tail blonde beer. We shared an order of Fried Alaskan Barley-Coated Calamari served with two sauces ... marinara and lemon butter. My main course was an herb-crusted halibut with pan fried potatoes, spinach, portobello mushrooms, apples, grape tomatoes, asparagus ... in a lemon butter sauce. It was good, but I’ve had better halibut elsewhere. Mui was very pleased with his reindeer medallions, served with a berry demi-glaze, polenta, and chef’s veggies. For dessert, we shared a chocolate mousse ... tasty, but the portion was too big for just the two of us.    Læs mere

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Lone Sandhill Crane mixed in with the Canada Geese — Creamer's Field, Fairbanks, AK.
    Lone Sandhill Crane mixed in with the Canada Geese — Creamer's Field, Fairbanks, AK.Sandhill Cranes strutting their stuff with more in the background — Creamer's Field, Fairbanks, AK.1As the sandhill cranes fly off, we leave to go home -- Creamer's Field, Fairbanks, AK.

    Day 36 Ends @ Creamer’s Field

    7. juni 2021, Forenede Stater ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    Creamer’s Field is a migratory waterfowl refuge ... world renowned.

    It is located in Fairbanks ... on the grounds of a former dairy farm that, during its years in operation, attracted migratory waterfowl. When the dairy was put up for sale in 1966, the local community raised money and bought the farm fields to protect the land and preserve it as a refuge.

    My primary interest in visiting Creamer’s Field was to see the sandhill cranes that come here for the breeding season. I got my wish ... though they were in a field that visitors are not allowed to enter.

    Our visit here this evening was a quickie look-see. I hope to squeeze in a visit one morning to hike the trails and perhaps see more birds and cranes and waterfowl.

    Hopefully, it will be far quieter in the morning than it was this evening ... way too many people with big, barking dogs. I can’t imagine the birds found the noise any less invasive and irritating than we did.    Læs mere

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    A brown bear & display of mammoth tusks welcome visitors to the Museum of the North — Fairbanks, AK.
    "After the Hunt" (C. Fejes) @ the Museum of the North — Fairbanks, AK.Blue Babe ... steppe bison roamed AK 100,000 to 10,000 years ago ... Museum of the North — FairbanksGwich'in Athabascan Baby Belt (H. Solomon) ... Museum of the North — Fairbanks, AK.Effie ... the fossil remains of a very young Pleistocene mammoth ... Museum of the North — FairbanksYup'ik window made of seal intestine ... Museum of the North — Fairbanks, AK.Skeleton of a bowhead whale harvested in 1963 during the autumn subsistence whale hunt at Pt Barrow.Gwich'in Athabascan moose hide dress ... Museum of the North — Fairbanks, AK.An "homage" to the "Great Alaska Outhouse Experience" (C.N. Buchanan) ... Museum of the North."Spirit Raven III" (J. Hoover) ... Museum of the North — Fairbanks, AK.

    University of Alaska Museum of the North

    7. juni 2021, Forenede Stater ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    Drained from our tour @ LARS — the sun was brutally hot even though the temp itself was comfortable — we headed over to the UAF Museum of the North for a breather and a bit of cultural experience.

    The museum, located on a high ridge ... with views of the Alaska Range and Denali, is home to some wonderful exhibits ranging from the wildlife of Alaska, to the people and land of the state.

    We spent two hours at the museum ... barely long enough for a quick look-see. But we caught a great many of the featured highlights, including Blue Babe, a steppe bison that’s been dated back 50,000 years; and a 43-foot long articulated skeleton of a bowhead whale that is suspended from the ceiling lobby ... virtually unveiled just a few hours before our visit today.

    The Rose Berry Alaska Art Gallery on the second floor is not to be missed ... and we didn’t.

    P.S. I forgot to look to see if Denali was showing herself ... though I did notice that at least parts of the Range were “out.”    Læs mere

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    The musk ox that re-established the Alaska herd first came to this research station in the 1930s.
    This bull musk ox is still shedding its underhair, called qiviut, which makes the heat intolerable.It's all in the eye ... musk ox @ LARS — UAF in Fairbanks, AK.Female musk ox have a thinner head boss and more delicate horns ... LARS — UAF in Fairbanks, AK.1Ruth, the reindeer calf, with her mama @ LARS — UAF in Fairbanks, AK.Reindeer profile @ LARS — UAF in Fairbanks, AK.Ruth, the reindeer calf, was shy, but came up to introduce herself @ LARS — UAF in Fairbanks, AK.Male and female musk ox skulls @ LARS — UAF in Fairbanks, AK.Circular channels inside the skull of the musk ox help to warm the frigid air it breathes in.

    Oomingmak & Reindeer @ LARS

    7. juni 2021, Forenede Stater ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Blue skies ... sunshine ... and a temp of 74F today. Overcast and rain the next few days. Hmmm.

    So, we decided to jiggle our plans and go to LARS — the Large Animal Research Station — operated by the University of Alaska Fairbanks. One can wander around the front pen area without a guide. But to have a better chance of seeing the animals and learn about them, one must take a tour ... given twice a day ... at 10:00a and 2:00p.

    The only species at LARS now are musk oxen and reindeer ... the latter with a cute calf named Ruth. I was hoping for a few more large animals, but the tour was interesting nonetheless.

    The blazing sun made the day intolerable for both the musk ox and the reindeer, so they were hiding in the trees. But a few of them took the “branches of leaf” bribe our guide carried with her and came up to the fence line. We wrapped up the tour in the “touchy-feely” tent where we had a chance to fell the hides of both species and study their skulls.

    Overall, a good opportunity to learn about whatever species happen to be at the research station at the time one visits.    Læs mere

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    1

    A-Wander in Fairbanks

    7. juni 2021, Forenede Stater ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    From the Morris Thompson Cultural and Visitor Center, we headed off for a stroll along the River Walk ... 1.5 miles. Somehow, though, we got sidetracked off the path and ended up meandering around the city.

    If not for the beautiful weather encouraging a change to our plans, we might have found our way back to the River Walk. Instead, we decided to have lunch so we could make the 2:00p tour at our next stop.

    Alas, lunch was a bust. The first place recommended to us by the VC was closed for construction. The second place was closed for lunch. The third place was closed on Mondays. The fourth place — Lavelle’s Bistro — was open and we went in. We were OK that the service was slow ... we’d been warned about it. But the food, when it was served, wasn’t worth the wait. I guess this falls into the “you win some, you lose some category.”

    —————————————

    The white church pictured is the Immaculate Conception Church. Constructed in 1904, it was originally situated on a “non-choice” lot. In 1911, it was rolled across the ice and set where it is located today.    Læs mere

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