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Ahmet Erkun
Ahmet Erkun

Ahmet Erkun

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  • 2019 Nautical Explorations
    A "we are at Gamle Bergen" selfie — Bergen, Norway.
    The Merchant's House was the only place where there were docents — Gamle Bergen ... Bergen, Norway.1Love the mossy cobblestone paths around the museum — Gamle Bergen ... Bergen, Norway.Official's House (L) and Dentist's House ... from the mid-to-late 18th century — Gamle Bergen.Painting depicting a street scene in Old Bergen — Gamle Bergen ... Bergen, Norway.Mui finds a bike to take for a spin, but it is chained up — Gamle Bergen ... Bergen, Norway.Twin outhouses — Gamle Bergen ... Bergen, Norway.Stained glass panel @ the Glazier's House — Gamle Bergen ... Bergen, Norway.Colorful flowers add cheer to the overcast day — Gamle Bergen ... Bergen, Norway.View of the ships in port (Nautica is the smaller one) — Gamle Bergen ... Bergen, Norway.

    Gamle Bergen (Old Bergen Museum)

    July 8, 2019 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Any other time we would have walked the 1 mile between the port and Gamle Bergen [Old Bergen] Museum. Since Mui was feeling poorly, however, we hopped on a public bus instead. The museum was just a short walk from where we got off the bus.

    The outdoor museum, which opened in 1946, is set up like a small town with 50+ houses dating from the period between the 18th through the 20th centuries. Many of the houses were moved here from the Bergen city center.

    Norway is an expensive country. The museum admission was no exception — Nkr 120 pp ($13 each). I’m not sure the admission was worth it. What was most disappointing was the interior of the buildings, which were clearly lacking TLC [tender loving care] ... a lot of dust; furnishings showing a lot of wear and tear. It didn’t help that docents were available only in one of the houses.

    Nonetheless, we enjoyed our experience ... especially wandering the grounds and finding nooks and crannies where we could soak in the atmosphere of “Old Bergen.”    Read more

  • 2019 Nautical Explorations
    A Norwegian troll mural welcomes us to Bergen, Norway.
    Bryggen ... Bergen's 11th century UNESCO World Heritage Site — Norway.Tourist map to help guide us around Bergen, Norway.

    Welcome to Bergen (Norway)

    July 8, 2019 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    Our second port of call ... Bergen ... the gateway to the fjords of Norway!

    Mui and I were off the ship around 10:00a. Just as it had in 2017, Bergen was welcoming us with overcast skies ... coolish temps. At least it wasn’t raining. But the conditions were not optimum to take the funicular to the top of Mt Fløyen to enjoy the views before hiking back down. It just wasn’t that kind of a day.

    Walking through Bryggen, the area of the city designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site — dating back to the 11th century — we headed to the head of Bergen Haven [Bergen Harbor], strolled through the fisketorget [fish market], and joined the short queue at the tourist information office.

    A few short minutes later, we had achieved our goal ... with a bonus. Not only did we now have a tourist map in hand, we also had bus tickets to put into play our alternate sightseeing plans.    Read more

  • 2019 Nautical Explorations

    Cha Ching! Mui Visits the Med Center

    July 8, 2019 in Norway ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    The conjunctivitis and sinus infection that has been plaguing Mui since our departure from Turkey — and through the first part of our self-drive in Ireland — is back!

    Nautica was on course to its berth in Bergen, Norway when Mui went across the hall to the medical center. Dr “call me Salinas” Mauricio ran some tests and determined that the sinus infection was bacterial ... the eye infection viral. He prescribed the appropriate medication and sat Mui down for an inhalation treatment to help drain the sinuses faster. Mui will get another cannula of meds this evening.Read more

  • 2019 Nautical Explorations
    Tasty treats from our friend, Chef Farid — En Route from Shetland to Norway.

    Surprise from Chef Farid!

    July 7, 2019, North Sea ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    When we returned to our cabin after dinner there was a surprise awaiting us from our friend, Chef Farid.

    Farid was the Executive Chef on the world cruise we did on Oceania’s Insignia in 2017. Though we’ve run into several of the crew members from that voyage since embarking Nautica in Dublin, Farid isn’t one of them.

    But he knew of our plans for this cruise and gifted us with a tasty treat. We’ve already eaten the chocolate-dipped strawberries. The champagne is waiting to be shared with our friends soon.

    Next up: Bergen, Norway ... 186 NM away.    Read more

  • 2019 Nautical Explorations
    Lodberries as Nautica leaves Lerwick — Shetland, Scotland.
    The Mareel Cinema & Music Venue on the foreshore — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.One of the Shetland ferries coming into Lerwick — Shetland, Scotland.The Lodberries with Town Hall on the hill — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.The Knab and Lerwick Cemetery from our vantage point on the ship — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.Seagulls nesting in the cliffs — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.One of the hamlets on the island — Shetland, Scotland.

    Sailaway from Lerwick

    July 7, 2019, North Sea ⋅ ⛅ 41 °F

    After lunch, we took a roundabout way back to Mair’s Pier where Nautica was docked. By this time, the damp cold had seeped into our bones. A cup of hot tea at the Horizons Lounge was in order. This was also a good spot from which to watch our sailaway from Lerwick.

    Our group split up for dinner tonight. Sonia and Boris went to Toscana to celebrate Stalik’s 80th birthday. We joined Bill & Star at the Terrace Café where mussels, picked up locally by the chef, were prepared in a Guinness broth.    Read more

  • 2019 Nautical Explorations
    Lunch in Lerwick — Shetland, Scotland.

    Lerwick: Lunch Time!

    July 7, 2019 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    My pre-cruise research had suggested that an espresso bar called Fjarå would be a good place to grab a bite to eat. When this was confirmed by a Shetlander we chatted with at The Knab, we headed there for lunch. The place overlooked Da Sletts and was a local hangout rather than a touristy place ... a bonus.

    The place was hopping when we arrived shortly before the breakfast menu changed to the lunch menu.

    Mui ordered the fish-sans-chips … made with haddock. I got the Fjarå ALT … a vegetarian BLT on a toasted bagel … with avocado in lieu of bacon. I added buffalo mozzarella to the mix. We were both pleased with our selections. I ordered a beer brewed in Lerwick — Azure … which the label on the bottle described as a light, hoppy ale. Truthfully, I didn’t care for it … too hoppy for my taste. Mui had an iced coffee that he said was quite good.    Read more

  • 2019 Nautical Explorations
    Looking across the Bight of the Sletts to the Knab — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.
    A "we are at Da Sletts" selfie — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.Looking across Brei Wick from Da Sletts — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.2Mama harbor seal with pup on the rocks of Da Sletts — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.Mama common eider and her brood at Da Sletts — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.

    Lerwick: “Da Sletts”

    July 7, 2019 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    As we cut through the golf course near The Knab, we got caught in a fast-moving squall that left us drenched. The good news? We were dressed in foul weather gear ... rain pants and slickers. Thus we stayed dry on the inside and were able to continue our explorations a-foot.

    We continued our walk on the paved path fronting “Da Sletts” ... sedimentary rocks that have been eroded into flat surfaces where seals love to sunbathe.    Read more

  • 2019 Nautical Explorations
    2Lodberries ... home of Jimmy Perez in the BBC series, "Shetland" — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.
    Along the coastal road in the Lodberries — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.Lodberries ... boat as a roof? — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.So many charming decorations and pots in one garden — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.The Knab Walk ... looking across to Bressay Island — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.1Colorful flowers decorate our first glimpse of The Knab — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.The promontory appropriately named "The Knab" — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.Panorama of the Knab and the Horse of the Knab — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.A "we are in Shetland" selfie — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.The Lerwick Cemetery ... high above The Knab — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.

    Lerwick: “Lodberries” & “The Knab”

    July 7, 2019 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    Our stroll through town took us through the Lodberries — old traders’ homes with attached shops — to a paved path that led us to “The Knab.” The name of the promontory, which juts into Bressay Sound, comes from Old Norse and appropriately means “projecting knoll or crag.”

    The path took us along the rugged coastline to an overlook from which we enjoyed views of the sound and the “Horse of the Knab.” Nearby we found the ruins of WWI military defenses and the Lerwick Cemetery.    Read more

  • 2019 Nautical Explorations
    Love these "Mary Poppins chimneys" — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.
    Most of these sandstone buildings date back to the 18th century — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.2Items featuring the Shetland sheep are plentiful — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.Mosaic mural @ Victoria Pier — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.Lerwick waterfront scene as we head to the Lodberries — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.Peaceful harbor view — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland."Da Lightsome Buoy" ... celebrates Shetland's pelagic fishing industry — Lerwick ... Shetland.The Shetland Library is housed in a 19th century church — Lerwick ... Shetland, Scotland.The Town Hall has beautiful stained glass windows, but it is closed today — Lerwick ... Shetland.

    A-Wander in Lerwick

    July 7, 2019 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    Mui and I set off from Nautica around 9:00a ... cold at 37F ... windy at times ... the sun barely peeking out but mostly hiding behind the clouds ... damp as well.

    As it was Sunday, the shops and such were closed ... only an occasional glimpse of the locals who live in what the Shetland website describes as “the only town” in these Scottish islands. Very few fellow passengers wandering around town ... most likely on tours going to places outside of town.

    The first part of our DIY exploration was a stroll through Lerwick ... the name of which comes from Leir Wick and means “Muddy Bay.”    Read more

  • 2019 Nautical Explorations
    Welcome to the Shetlands - Welcome to Scotland — Lerwick, Shetland Islands.
    We stay in town to explore on foot — Lerwick, Shetland Islands.

    Welcome to Lerwick (Shetland Islands)

    July 7, 2019 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    Our first port of call of the cruise ... Lerwick ... the capital of the Shetland Islands ... the easternmost town of Scotland ... the northernmost town of the UK.

    First time setting foot in Scotland.

    With Nautica docked at Mair’s Pier, Mui and I spent the day exploring Lerwick on foot ... creating our own path by combining the route marked in red on the map with the black-dotted route that took us to The Knab and beyond.    Read more

  • 2019 Nautical Explorations

    Day At Sea

    July 6, 2019, Inner Seas off the West Coast of Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    When Nautica left Dublin last night, we had some 540 NM to go to our next port of call. That’s a distance that requires a day at sea . No problem, we love such days.

    In all these years of sailing, one thing hasn’t changed. And that is the swiftness with which a day at sea seems to fly by for us. Today was no exception.

    After meeting up with our friends for breakfast in the Terrace Café, we all went about our own plans .... some together ... some separately. That, to us, is the best way to share a cruise with friends. Do things together when interests and plans coincide ... but not joined at the hip all the time.

    Our activities kicked off with an M&G [meet & greet] to get to know fellow-passengers whom we had met “virtually” on the CruiseCritic roll call. Then came several lectures — two that we enjoyed ... one that wasn’t our cup of tea. Quiet time — reading and writing — was also part of the day. In between, we had lunch at the Terrace Café and partook of afternoon tea in the Horizons Lounge.

    We wrapped up our day with dinner with our friends in the Grand Dining Room; listened to the classical music quartet in the lobby; and went to see Alan Kavanagh, headlining in the theater. His rendition of “Oh Danny Boy” was especially delightful.

    Tomorrow is the first of a run of four ports of call coming up. We’ll be stepping foot on Scottish soil for the first time.    Read more

  • 2019 Nautical Explorations
    Bay-window ledge in lieu of a veranda on this cruise — Oceania Nautica.
    1Cabin 4052 ... spliting the bed makes for a more spacious cabin — Oceania Nautica.Cabin 4052 ... en suite facilities are small but adequate — Oceania Nautica.

    Our Oceanview Cabin

    July 5, 2019, Irish Sea ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    We were onboard Nautica well before our appointed time. Lunch was at the Terrace Café ... with our friends — Bill & Star and Sonia & Boris. We met both couples on the 2017 world cruise. Sonia and Boris’s longtime friends, Sofia & Stalik, joined us as well.

    Much of the afternoon was spent getting settled into our respective cabins, with time set aside to attend the mandatory muster drill when the ship’s horn sounded the alarm.

    At 7:00p, Nautica quietly slipped her mooring lines. As the ship headed out to the Irish Sea, we rejoined our friends for a group dinner at the Polo Grill.

    And so our voyage has begun!

    (Oddly, I have no photos from today except for those I took of the cabin.)    Read more

  • 2019 Nautical Explorations
    A cool-weather summer cruise on Nautica.

    Leg 1: Northern Glow

    July 5, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    This phase of our 2019 overseas jaunts consists of two cruises booked back-to-back on Oceania’s Nautica. Hence the name of the trip — “Nautical Explorations.”

    The segment we are embarking today in Dublin, Ireland will take us up and around Norway with a dip into Russia. After a few more Norwegian ports on the way south, the cruise will end in Denmark, Copenhagen.Read more

  • Our Ring Around Ireland
    Delicious meal @ Crave — Navan, Ireland.

    Dinner Time!

    July 4, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Our last day of touring was planned as an easy one.

    By shortly after noon, we were back at the B&B. A quick snack. Chores to prepare for the next phase of our trip. A quick wander around Athlumney Castle ... the proprietors of the B&B are the caretakers for the ruins and gave us the key.

    Then it was time to walk into Navan for dinner at Crave. What a great choice this place turned out to be. Casual atmosphere ... excellent food ... a great way to end our self-drive trip around Ireland.

    The fettuccine Alfredo with prawns was delicious … the creamy basil sauce made all the difference. Mui ordered off the early bird menu because he wanted to have the lamb shank … falling-off-the-bone tender. This special menu came with a set price for two courses, so he ordered the stuffed mushrooms as a starter. Boy, were they good!

    The walk back to the B&B was great exercise after our most satisfying meal.    Read more

  • Our Ring Around Ireland
    The ruins of Bective Abbey — Ballina, Ireland.
    The 12th century ruins of Bective Abbey — Ballina, Ireland.The entrance to the cloister garth @ Bective Abbey — Ballina, Ireland.View of the ruins from the cloister garth @ Bective Abbey — Ballina, Ireland.The cloister was used as a set in Braveheart — Bective Abbey ... Ballina, Ireland.

    Braveheart’s Bective Abbey

    July 4, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    After our wander around the Hill of Tara, we drove to nearby Bective Abbey. Our main reason for doing so was to kill time. The plan was to check out the ruins and then return to the Heritage and Visitor Center to watch the documentary video about Tara.

    Turns out that the cloister walk at the ruins of this Cistercian abbey, which was founded in 1147, was another location where scenes for the Mel Gibson movie, “Braveheart,” were filmed. I may have to watch the movie again just to see if I can recognize the scenes filmed here and at Trim Castle.    Read more

  • Our Ring Around Ireland
    Forrad (top ring) & Tech Cormaic (a ringfort) ... St Patrick's on the right — Hill of Tara, Ireland.
    Undulating fields hide burial mounds and earthworks — Hill of Tara, Ireland.Making our way to the Forrad ... King's Seat — Hill of Tara, Ireland.Left: Memorial to the 1798 Battle of Tara; Right: Lia Fail — Hill of Tara, Ireland.Lia Fail — aka Stone of Destiny — on the Forrad ... the ancient coronation stone — Hill of Tara.Undulating fields hide burial mounds and earthworks — Hill of Tara, Ireland.St Patrick's Church serves as the Hill of Tara Heritage & Visitor Center — Ireland.Evie Hone window commemorating the arrival of St Patrick in Ireland — St Patrick's ... Hill of Tara.

    Hill of Tara

    July 4, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    An 8:45a arrival at the Hill of Tara, just 10 miles or so from the B&B, meant we’d have to return later to watch the documentary shown in the Heritage & Visitor Center later in the morning. The upside to our early arrival? We had the whole place to ourselves.

    The Hill of Tara is Ireland’s first pagan sanctuary. It is a must-see place for its historic significance. For the casual visitor, however, there’s not much to see … only some earthworks. If one does not do any research in advance, it just looks like an undulating field of lush green grass. Well, it’s those undulations that make this place so significant. They are burial mounds.

    The first passage tomb was built at Tara in the late Stone Age. But it wasn’t until the Iron Age (600 BC to 400 AD) that Tara gained in importance. By the early Christian Period, it had risen into great prominence as the seat of the High Kings of Ireland ... as the place where they were coronated. As Christianity gained in importance, however, Tara’s significance became mostly symbolic.    Read more

  • Our Ring Around Ireland
    Plaque honoring the Ottoman aid to the Irish — Drogheda, Ireland.

    Ottoman Aid During the Great Famine

    July 3, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    History records that during the Great Famine (1845-1849), the Ottomans sent aid to Ireland.

    Reports say that Sultan Abdülmecit wanted to send £10,000 to the people of Ireland, but that Queen Victoria asked him to reduce the amount to £1,000 because she had sent only £2,000. The Sultan, it is said, acceded to her wishes, but in addition to the money, he sent five ship loads of food ... in secret. From what I recall, the arrival of the ships in Dublin was blockaded by the English, so the foodstuff was unloaded in Drogheda instead.

    It was this story that took us to Drogheda. After lunch, we took care of a few errands, and then went in search of a plaque of gratitude honoring the aid. It wasn’t easy to find, but a volunteer at the visitor center directed us to the Westcourt Hotel and told us to look above the entrance to the property!

    P.S. Note added in January 2021 ... Apparently, there is a movie in pre-production — titled, Famine — that tells the story of this charitable event. Whether it will ever be released is TBD.    Read more

  • Our Ring Around Ireland

    Lunch Time!

    July 3, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    Drogheda as a city did not impress us. Big. Crowded. It just didn’t feel at all Irish. But it fulfilled our need to complete a couple of errands. Starting with a delicious lunch that we enjoyed at the Grey Goose.

    We both ordered the Beef and Guinness Irish Stew, which I thought was even better than the one I had in Adare earlier in our trip. A pint of Rockshore, an Irish lager brewed by Guinness, washed it all down.    Read more

  • Our Ring Around Ireland
    What remains of the 12th century Mellifont Abbey — Tullyallen, Ireland.
    Illustration of Mellifont Abbey before the lavabo was added in 1200 — Tullyallen, Ireland.Lavabo ... partially hidden by the chapter house ruins @ Mellifont Abbey — Tullyallen, Ireland.The lavabo looks mostly intact on this side ... Mellifont Abbey — Tullyallen, Ireland.What's left of the cloister walk through the lavabo entrance ... Mellifont Abbey — Tullyallen.The rear half of the lavabo is missing ... Mellifont Abbey — Tullyallen, Ireland.

    Mellifont Abbey

    July 3, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    The location of the ruins — not far from Drogheda — and a photo I had seen showing a circular structure that looked quite unusual. These were the reasons why we headed to Mellifont Abbey today.

    This Cistercian Abbey was consecrated in 1157. If the illustration of the original buildings is anything to go by, the place was quite impressive back in its heyday. Not much remains today, however. Nonetheless, the circular structure did not disappoint ... assuming you are a person who enjoys visiting and photographing ruins.

    Turns out that the structure in question was built around 1200. It was a “lavabo” ... a place of purification where the monks cleansed their bodies and spirit prior to dining in the refectory hall. Today, the lavabo seems to have a split personality ... looking almost intact on one side and in total shambles from the other side.

    That we had this photogenic place all to ourselves — even on “free first Wednesday — was a lovely bonus.    Read more

  • Our Ring Around Ireland
    The church on the left; the college on the right — Hill of Slane ... Slane, Ireland.
    The ruins of the church and Gothic tower are surrounded by a cemetery — Hill of Slane ... Ireland.The church ruins and cemetery — Hill of Slane ... Slane, Ireland.Looking across the hill through a window in the church tower — Hill of Slane ... Slane, Ireland.Statue of St Patrick marks the spot of the Easter Fire he lit in 433 — Hill of Slane ... Ireland.Hill of Slane ... Slane, Ireland.Ruins of the monastery and tower house — Hill of Slane ... Slane, Ireland.Entrance to the ruins of the college — Hill of Slane ... Slane, Ireland.Don't ask me how Mui got up there ... I don't want to know — Hill of Slane ... Slane, Ireland.Panorama of the ruins of the college from inside — Hill of Slane ... Slane, Ireland.

    Hill of Slane

    July 3, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    The Hill of Slane was not on our planned itinerary for today. But when we encountered a road sign pointing to the ruins, we made a detour.

    The hilltop is home to two sets of ruins. Those of a 16th century Medieval church with a Gothic tower, and also those of a college, which was founded to serve the church. The latter contains the ruins of a monastery built sometime in the 5th century and a tower house that is from the 16th century.

    The Hill of Slane has an important place in Irish spirituality. According to tradition, in 433 AD the first Christian missionary to Ireland lit an Easter Fire where the church now stands. That missionary later became known as St Patrick. In lighting the fire, however, he unknowingly disobeyed the decree of a High King at nearby Tara. The king was pacified when his Druid — Erc — converted to Christianity and was later made the first Bishop of Slane.    Read more

  • Our Ring Around Ireland
    A "we are here" selfie @ Newgrange — Brú na Bóinne, Ireland.
    Our guide regaling us with information about Newgrange — Brú na Bóinne, Ireland.The white quartz wall had to be reverse engineered before it could be rebuilt — Newgrange, Ireland.No photography inside ... collage of scanned postcards — Newgrange, Ireland.12 of the 35 Bronze Age standing stones have survived @ Newgrange — Brú na Bóinne, Ireland.An ancient monument @Newgrange — Brú na Bóinne, Ireland.Decorated kerbstone @Newgrange — Brú na Bóinne, Ireland.Crossing the River Boyne @ Newgrange — Brú na Bóinne, Ireland.

    Newgrange @ Brú na Bóinne

    July 3, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    Brú na Bóinne, which translates as the “Palace of Boyne,” is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that sits in the bend of the River Boyne. This Neolithic site contains some 90 monuments, three of which — Newgrange, Knowth, and Dowth — are megalithic tombs that date back some 5,000 years or so.

    With our road trip quickly nearing its end, we had no choice but to visit this popular heritage site on “Free First Wednesday.” This event promised that the site would be more crowded than usual. Two things worked in our favor, however. First, we arrived soon after the site opened at 9:00a and managed to get on the first tour. Second, most of the people already in the queue wanted to visit both Newgrange and Knowth. As a result, we had only 10 people instead of the usual 24 in our group for a “single tomb” tour.

    When the shuttle dropped us off at Newgrange, our guide escorted us to the entrance of the tomb, which consists of a cairn surrounded by a white quartz wall girdled by slabs called kerbstones. After she gave us some general information, we entered the very narrow rock passage that leads to a large chamber. Here, our guide talked about how the sun enters the tomb through a door-box above the entrance, travels down the passageway, and lights up the chamber on the three shortest days of the year during the Winter Solstice. A simulation of the event accompanied her words ... a stirring event.

    I’m glad we were able to visit Newgrange this year. Apparently, all tours — except for the Winter Solstice ones — will be discontinued after this season due to damage to the tombs from the humidity generated by the breath of visitors.    Read more

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