• Freo Day 2: In Prison!

    11 de enero de 2024, Australia ⋅ 🌬 82 °F

    Our tummies sated after an excellent lunch that followed our meandering walk around town, we headed to prison! Literally. The good news? This prison was no longer an active facility!

    Inscribed as a UNESCO Heritage Site, the Fremantle Prison is the largest convict-built structure in Western Australia. It also carries the distinction of being the most intact convict establishment in all of Australia.

    Construction of the prison, which had a capacity of 1,000 inmates, began in 1850 … with the arrival of the first 10,000 male convicts … requested by the authorities as a labor force to help build the Swan River Colony. Once it became a functioning facility, it was used as a place of incarceration until it was decommissioned in 1991.

    One can enter the outer yard of the prison for free … visit the small museum and the exhibit of paintings by prisoners currently serving their sentences in Western Australian prisons.

    For a more in depth experience of the site — one that takes visitors beyond the tall gate and into the prison yard and buildings — one must join a tour. Options include going back to convict times … to the period between the 1850s and 1888; going behind the bars to do time and explore the prison’s history as a maximum security gaol … from 1887 to 1991; or getting inside the criminal mind … through stories about some of the more notorious inmates of the prison.

    We were most interested in the convict history of Fremantle … our timing working out perfectly as the tour was about to leave when we arrived. Our guide was great … bringing alive with words the happenings of the time.

    We checked out the regular cells; the communal sleeping areas; the two chapels — Anglican, built at the expense of the government, and Roman Catholic, built by the people when the government refused to pay for it; the “inescapable cell” … built solely due to a prisoner who made a mockery of the prison by escaping repeatedly; the solitary confinement cells; and more. Our guide pointed out details that might have escaped our attention … such as the suicide nets; the holes for ventilation; the hidden art that came to light only a few years ago; the use of buckets as “necessaries”; and more.

    It was a fascinating look back to Australia as a penal colony … one that gave us many thoughts to ponder. The stories were interesting … and enlightening.
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  • Freo Day 2: Exploring the City

    11 de enero de 2024, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    After a good night’s rest, we were up and at ‘em early to explore Fremantle — Freo … as the locals refer to the city.

    Regatta wasn’t scheduled to depart until 8:00p, so we had plenty of time to go a-wanderin’. But we knew the heat would eventually get to us … hence the early start. As it is, we lasted longer than I thought we would … thanks to a breeze that we were especially glad to have where no shade was available.

    Settled in 1829, Fremantle was not proclaimed a city until 1929. The city is known for its maritime history, Victorian architecture, and remnants from when Australia was a British penal colony, including the Fremantle Prison, which is inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage Site.

    There are many ways to explore Freo. We decided to follow the “Street Art” for a meandering walk that took us to many of the landmarks, and along streets lined with well-maintained Victorian-era buildings … many of them repurposed to house shops and restaurants.. Mui even managed to get a haircut along the way.

    We had lunch at Bella Roma … recommended by the barber. She did not steer us wrong. Thus re-energized, we set off to explore the Fremantle Prison. But I’ll leave that for the next footprint.
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  • Fremantle, WA: A Day on Wadjemup

    10 de enero de 2024, Australia ⋅ 🌬 73 °F

    New-to-us Port #5 … with an overnight.

    Fremantle is the port for Perth, the capital of Western Australia. Since we will be in Perth for a few days before our Indian Pacific rail journey, we won’t be going there during this overnight visit.

    Leaving exploring Fremantle to tomorrow, today we focused our attention on Rottnest Island … known as Wadjemup by the traditional custodians of the land. It is a 30-minute ferry ride on the Rottnest Express, which leaves from B Shed … a 20-minute walk from where Regatta docked at the Victoria Quay Passenger Terminal. I had booked us on the 9:30a ferry … which we had plenty of time to catch.

    Private vehicles are not allowed on Rottnest. The popular way to explore is by bicycle. But I can’t keep my balance on a two-wheel bike. So, I looked at alternatives and settled on the Rottnest Explorer, a shuttle service that takes visitors around the island … operating as a HoHo.

    Once we disembarked the ferry and got our bearings, we hopped on the bus and stayed on for the entire loop — about an hour’s drive — checking out where we might want to get off and walk later … and where Mui might want to swim.

    Once we began the loop over again, we hopped off at Parker Point to check out the views. As luck would have it, we got to see our first quokka there. What is a quokka? It is a small macropod … about the size of a domestic cat. This mainly nocturnal animal is only found on Rottnest, so we were lucky in our sighting of one in the wild … though we did later see others wandering around the Settlement where they go in search of crumbs dropped by visitors.

    Our beach break for Mui was at Salmon Bay, the longest stretch of sugar-white sand on the island. But that’s not why Mui picked it. No, he opted for Salmon Bay because it was mostly deserted.

    I’m going to let the images do the talking as words won’t do justice to the beautiful scenery our eyes beheld around every corner. The bonus of this great day was that we had a fairly strong breeze to keep the temperature — a high of 85F — quite comfy … even in the sun.

    We had a fantastic time on Rottnest. We returned to Fremantle on the 4:30p ferry. Gage Roads, a brewery/pub, was conveniently nearby once we got off the boat. It served as the perfect spot to grab a bite for dinner before returning to Regatta to rest up for tomorrow.
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  • Geraldton: Regional Art Museum

    9 de enero de 2024, Australia ⋅ 🌬 77 °F

    From the Museum of Geraldton, we followed the waterfront trail for a bit before cutting inland a few streets to the art museum, which is housed in the same building as the Visitor Center.

    The current exhibit at the museum is the “Mid West Art Prize.” This is a biennial exhibit that is in its eight year. It’s not unlike the National Aboriginal & Torres Strait Islanders Art Award exhibit that we caught in Darwin not long ago. On a smaller scale, however, and the focus is on the Western Australian Arts Culture, highlighting the contemporary work of artists from across the state.

    My favorite turned out not to be a painting, but a pottery piece entitled “A Little Village of Red Brick Pots” by Pascale Giorgi. Before leaving the museum, I made sure to register my vote for it.
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  • Geraldton: Museum of Geraldton

    9 de enero de 2024, Australia ⋅ 🌬 77 °F

    Having taken a lunch break following our visit to the HMAS Sydney II Memorial, we were ready to tackle the first museum on our list for today … the Museum of Geraldton.

    The museum is described as celebrating “the rich heritage of the land, sea and people of the Mid West region.” Exhibits cover topics ranging from ancient landforms, to Yamaji culture, to the unique landscapes and marine environment of the region.

    On display in the Shipwrecks Gallery are finds from Dutch vessels that went down in nearby waters — Batavia, Gilt Dragon, Zuytdorp, and Zeewijk. A popular exhibit covers the sinking and wrecks of HMAS Sydney II and HSK Kormoran … both of which lie some 8,200 feet below the surface of the ocean. A screen displays images of the wrecks.

    The museum is not very big … but it is well done. We enjoyed wandering around the various exhibits, but freely admit that we did so in a hurry as there was one more museum we wanted to check out before returning to Regatta.
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  • Geraldton: HMAS Sydney II Memorial

    9 de enero de 2024, Australia ⋅ 🌬 77 °F

    From the cathedral, we slogged uphill to visit one of the iconic sites of Geraldton … stopping for a quick few minutes to buy some mangos from a supermarket along the way.

    The keel of HMAS Sydney II was laid in 1933. Its name then was HMS Phaeton … and she was intended for the British Navy. The name was changed when she was purchased by the Commonwealth of Australia. After serving in the European Theater, she returned to Australia, where she continued her escort duties in Western Australia, calling on Geraldton three times during that time.

    On the evening of 19 November 1941, on her way back from the Sundra Straits, she encountered the German Raider, HSK Kormoran. The two ships engaged … resulting in the loss of both. No trace was found of HMAS Sydney and her crew of 645 men following the encounter. In March 2008, the wreck of HMAS Sydney II was found in position 26 14 45 S / 111 12 55 E.

    The memorial, which was dedicated on the 60th anniversary of the sinking, has several symbolic elements — the Wall of Remembrance, etched with the names of the lost and the poignant words … “The Rest is Silence;” the Sanctuary … with its dome made of 645 stainless steel seagulls representing the souls lost when the ship sank; the Podium … at the center of which is a ship’s propeller, which serves as an altar for wreath laying; the Pool of Remembrance, into the floor of which the coordinates of the wreck position are etched; the Stele … shaped like the prow of HMAS Sydney II; and the Waiting Woman Sculpture … representing the women grieving for their men.

    The memorial is exceptionally well done … visiting it is a moving experience, and one not to be missed.
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  • Geraldton: St Francis Xavier Cathedral

    9 de enero de 2024, Australia ⋅ 🌬 73 °F

    “A poem in stone.” That is how the St Francis Xavier Cathedral is described.

    The church was the dream of William Kelly, the first Bishop of Geraldton. He wanted a moderately-sized cathedral where the congregation could worship with a sense of personal participation. Priest-architect John Hawes delivered on that dream.

    The style of the church is influenced by the 19th-20th century Arts & Crafts Movement which was born of a reaction against revivalist styles such as Neo-Gothic and Neo-Classicism. It was built in three stages between 1916 and 1938, when it was formally opened for worship.

    We had no idea what to expect when we decided to stop by the cathedral on our way to the MHAS Sydney II Memorial. What we found charmed us and kept us engaged longer than we expected. I especially loved the striping around the interior … an homage to churches in Europe where the same effect is achieved through the use of different colored marble.

    “Geraldton didn’t have the money for marble, so paint was used instead” explained Maureen, the delightful 92-year old volunteer who welcomed us to the church.

    She and the other volunteers made our visit all the more memorable, sharing stories about the cathedral and pointing out special features — the carved names on the pillars … of pastoral station owners who donated handsomely to the building of the cathedral; the Jubilee windows that correspond to the cardinal direction points; the baptismal immersion pool with beautiful mosaic-work; the window in the floor with a view of Bishop Kelly’s burial chamber … excavated during the 2017 renovation of the cathedral as no one was sure if he had really been buried under the church; the crypt where the Chapel of Our Lady of Sorrows is located … dedicated to the soldiers who fell in WWI; the Geraldton bells … the largest church carillon in Australia; the way the sun beams come through the Star of Bethlehem in the Crib to bathe the Christ Child; and more.

    I should also mention that there was a lot of laughter throughout our conversation with the volunteers … such a nice change from the usually solemn exchanges at places of worship. A little irreverence is good for the soul, I say.

    We visit churches and other places of worship primarily to see the often amazing art and architectural features. St Francis Xavier Cathedral did not disappoint.
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  • Geraldton, WA

    9 de enero de 2024, Australia ⋅ 🌬 73 °F

    New-to-us Port #4.

    Finally … a day with comfy enough temps to wander around without feeling like we were in a sauna. Yes, it was quite breezy … but that just helped to keep us even more comfortable.

    The port is a short distance from the CBD … and we had to take a shuttle from the ship since walking within the port is not allowed. We were greeted in town by helpful volunteers who were handing out maps and answering questions.

    With everything we wanted to see and do within convenient walking distance, we set off on foot to see what we could see. Our first stop was the cathedral. Then up the hill to the HMAS Sydney II Memorial. Next up was the Museum of Geraldton … but along the way, passing by a café called Skeetas, we stopped for a bite to eat. The Hawaiian pizza was one of the best we’ve had anywhere, but the star of our meal was the salad … broccoli, feta, macerated raisins, and crunchy grains. We wrapped up our day of exploration at the Geraldton Regional Art Museum. Colorful murals here and there were the bonus of our day.

    I have plenty of photos to share, so I’ll make this footprint the intro and share a few random images … the rest will get their own footprints.

    Captain Giulio just came on the P/A to advise us that we will be experiencing swells as we depart Geraldton … and throughout the evening. Looks like we will be rocked to sleep tonight.
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  • Cruising the Indian Ocean

    8 de enero de 2024, Indian Ocean ⋅ 🌬 73 °F

    Day 2 of 2 days at sea.

    Pitching and jiggling our way down the coast of Western Australia.

    Today’s “overland challenge” was to figure out how to cover some 3,000+ miles from Melbourne to Perth in the RV … over a 20-day time frame. Barebones skeleton of the trip is done … now to flesh out the details.

    But first … we have some ports of call to explore in the coming days.
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  • Cruising the Indian Ocean

    7 de enero de 2024, Indian Ocean ⋅ 🌬 81 °F

    Day 1 of 2 days at sea.

    A nice day at sea as we chip away at the 1,001 NM between Broome and our next port of call in Western Australia.

    The Indian Ocean was a “little swelly” — in the 6-foot range … just enough motion to remind us that we are at sea. That might change overnight, however. Captain Giulio advised us in his noon announcement that there might be some pitching to contend with tomorrow. We shall see.

    We’re taking advantage of our two days at sea to flesh out the self-drive portions of our overland trip. Today’s focus was on getting us from Sydney to Brisbane in March. Mui’s taken on the challenge of coming up with a loose-plan for us … doing a yeoman’s job considering we’re at sea using Regatta’s wi-fi for our research.

    (I must say that while we’ve had some challenging moments with the wi-fi, which has not been converted to Musk’s Starlink yet, the signal has been fairly good. No real complaints.)
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  • Broome, WA

    6 de enero de 2024, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 90 °F

    New-to-us Port #3.

    Having completed the immigration formalities yesterday as we were sailing from Bali to Australia, we were ready to disembark Regatta as soon as it was cleared. The complimentary shuttle took us from the port to Napier Terrace in Broome.

    Even as we got off the bus, we noted how quiet everything seemed to be. We had a few ideas about what we wanted to do, including going heli-sightseeing. But were hoping for a bit more information before making a decision. So, we asked the two people greeting the bus for directions to the Visitor Center and headed off to ask some questions.

    We found the VC alright … locked up tight and closed until 8 January! That pretty much proved to be the case almost everywhere in Broome … except for the supermarkets, a few cafés, and some shops. The landmarks, including the museum, were closed. Why so with a ship-full of people in town? For one thing, this is off-season hereabouts. For another, the week following the ringing in of the new year seems to be a popular time for extended holidays and closures.

    So, we hopped on the Broome Explorer, a city bus that not only provides regular transportation, but also serves as a Ho-Ho if you buy the day pass. We didn’t. We just paid the fare for a trip out to Cable Beach, said to be one of the top-five beaches in the world … Mui could swim and we could later get a bite to eat at Zanders.

    The plan didn’t work out as expected, but it did give us something fun to do and rescued the day from being a total failure. For one thing, there was a strong, refreshing breeze that helped mitigate the hot temperature. For another thing, the scenery was beautiful … a long stretch of white sand under brilliant blue skies … rimmed with turquoise water on one side and a band of green consisting of palm trees, dune vegetation, and lush grass on the other side.

    The surprising thing was that the long expanse of beach was all but deserted. I saw two people sunning themselves, and as the day progressed, some people came out for a stroll. That was it. Off-season? Yes. Stinger season? Yes. Rough surf? Yes. Then, there is that estuarine crocodile 🐊 sighted in the water yesterday … a definite deterrent to swimming no matter how inviting the water looked.

    So, Mui headed over to Zanders to get us a table. I went for a stroll to take photos before joining him. Good food. Ordered the Trawler’s Catch to share … Exmouth prawns, calamari, Thai fish cakes, spring rolls, and baked scallops. We supplemented it with an order of pumpkin & feta arancini. We washed it all down with beverages from Matzo’s, a local brewery … ginger beer for me and mango beer for Mui. I’d rate mine OK … Mui’s drink didn’t have much flavor.

    Returning to the ship early, we relaxed until dinner time … just as Regatta pulled away from its berth to continue south along the Western Australia coast.
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  • Cruising the Australian Basin

    5 de enero de 2024, Indian Ocean ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    A quiet day at sea … chipping away at the distance between Bali and Australia.

    Since we left Australia for a few days, today we had to meet with Australia Border Forces representatives to complete the immigration process to re-enter the country. It took all of two or three minutes and our entry is now legal. And even better? We don’t have to waste time clearing immigration when we arrive in Broome.

    Part of the day was spent refining our driving plans from Sydney to Cairns in March. Having already stolen some days from that part of the trip, we decided to … well, let’s just say that another train trip snuck its way onto the triptik.

    We wrapped up our day with the Captain’s Welcome Celebration for this segment … and enjoyed a delicious meal at the Polo Grill.
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  • Bali Day 2: Pura Tanah Lot

    4 de enero de 2024, Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 84 °F

    OMG! The traffic!!!

    Of course, it could have been worse. Ray was telling us yesterday how it took some people eight hours to get from the airport into the city a few days ago. Dewa confirmed that was the case, saying that traffic had been particularly horrible due to all the people who drove to Bali for the New Year … from places like Java and Jakarta. He pointed out that the license plates on the road today mostly started with “DK” … indicating they were from Bali. Things were normalizing to the “usual bad traffic.”

    Anyway, the 45-km drive from the dance venue to Beraban Kediri to visit Pura Tanah Lot took us 1.5-hours … with the traffic being stop and go most of the time.

    Arriving at noon, we purchased our tickets and ran off to see this very interesting place … from afar since only the Hindu are allowed to enter the temple itself. Dewa said that we had 20 minutes to see what we could see. It took us half that time to walk through the market to get to the temple gates. So, we extended our self-imposed 2:00p deadline to return to the ship by an hour to make the trip out to Tanah Lot worthwhile.

    Tanah Lot literally means “Land in the Sea.” It refers to a rock formation just offshore … to which people can walk during low tide. This is one of seven sea temples, each within sight of the other … lining the Balinese coast like a necklace. With the incoming tide crashing ashore, it made for a very scenic photo op, though that same tide did preclude walking out for a closer look-see.

    The genesis of the temple is said to go back to the 16th century when Dang Hyannis Nirartha, a Hindu traveler and religious figure in Bali, stopped to rest at the rock-island. Later, talking to fishermen who brought him gifts, he suggested that the place would make a nice place for a shrine as he felt this was a holy place. The rest is history. The main deity worshipped here is the sea god. And it is said that the temple is protected by venomous sea snakes.

    As expected, the return trip was slow going, but Dewa got us back to the ship with an hour to spare until the all aboard at 3:30p. We did miss out on lunch ashore unfortunately. Next time!

    Back to Australia we go now … for the rest of the cruise.
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  • Bali Day 2: Barong & Keris Dance

    4 de enero de 2024, Indonesia ⋅ ⛅ 86 °F

    We met up with Dewa earlier than planned at 8:15a. He came early … we were ready. Seemed like a good idea to get the show on the road.

    We debarked Regatta amidst a queue of people leaving the ship today … their cruise vacation at an end. With only 130 disembarking (to be replaced by 135 passengers later in the day) — and Celebrity Millennium not yet disembarking its passengers — it was easy enough to get through the terminal.

    As we did yesterday, we started our outing with an ATM stop. Then, Dewa drove us to the performance center in Kuta to see the Barong Keris Dance.

    Arriving at the venue early gave us a chance to take photos and play with the musical instruments. One of the musicians, an older gentleman who plays the flute, stopped to chat with us and even gave us a private concert.

    The gist of the “dance story” — one that is traditionally performed in temples — is the eternal fight between good and evil … with good winning in the end. Of course. In this instance, good is represented by Barong and evil is represented by Rangda. Thankfully, we were provided with a brief description of the five-act dance, so we could follow along.

    The performance was interesting and the costumes were elaborate. How some of the characters endured the heat under the heavy, multi-layered costumes is beyond me. But they did … and were still smiling when at least some of them congregated on the stage for a photo op following the performance.
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  • Bali: Afternoon @ the Pasifika

    3 de enero de 2024, Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 88 °F

    After bidding Ray goodbye at the Benoa Cruise Terminal, we met up with Dewa “Bali Driver,” whose services we had used in 2017. During that overnight stop, we’d gone further afield, taking in many of the “must-see’s” … including the amazing rice terraces.

    This afternoon, we decided to stay close to Benoa where Regatta was docked. Not sure where I first heard about Museum Pasifika — located in tourist-centric Nusa Dua — but that was our destination.

    This art museum bills itself as the #1 attraction in Bali. I think that claim might be a little high-reaching … as the new manager of the museum admitted during her chat with Mui while he waited for me to finish up my rounds. She is trying to make the claim reality, however, by changing their social media profile and also by seeking to make contact with cruise lines in order to offer tours and special events.

    The museum has a fairly small collection — some 600+ pieces of artwork from the Asia Pacific Region … including one piece by Henri Matisse and several by Paul Gauguin. I took my time wandering through the inter-connected galleries … enjoying the colorful art. Having the place to myself during most of my visit was a bonus.

    I found the museum definitely worth visiting … except that it was like a sauna inside and sweat was pouring out of every pore. In discussing this with the manager, she explained that as hot and humid as Bali is, they do not use A/C … so as not to “shock” the art on exhibit.

    We wrapped up our day with massages at the Royal Orchid Spa … excellent treatments … at a fraction of what they charge at the Aquamar Spa on the ship.

    Dewa was all set to take us somewhere for dinner after we left the spa, but we begged off. It was 7:30p and the heat had taken its toll. Besides, with another day in Bali, it seemed best to return to Regatta to re-energize ourselves for tomorrow’s outing.
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  • Welcome to Bali, Indonesia

    3 de enero de 2024, Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 88 °F

    After a morning at sea, Regatta arrived at the Benoa Cruise Terminal in Bali … our arrival timed to the tides here.

    Upon leaving the ship, we were welcomed by our friend Ray Carr, who lives in Bali when he is not on a ship or adventuring somewhere around the world. We’ve sailed with him as our cruise director many times over the years on Oceania, most recently on this year’s world cruise.

    It was great to see him again … and finally meet Maurici, who adopted Ray a few years ago and has been his furry-companion since.
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  • Komodo Island, Indonesia: Retrospective

    2 de enero de 2024, Indonesia ⋅ ⛅ 88 °F

    After a quiet morning at sea, our first port of call of 2024 is Komodo Island, Indonesia.

    The tenders have been dropped and are ferrying people ashore in search of the infamous Komodo Dragons at the national park … a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

    The only way to get ashore here is by being on a tour. This is a National Park rule due to the predatory nature of the carnivorous dragons … which also have deadly, bacteria-laden saliva. You can either take a ship’s tour … or organize one privately in advance (for which proof of booking on the tour company letterhead is required).

    We booked neither. Having visited the island on our 2017 world cruise, we are not going ashore this time. Seen the dragons … ✔️ Done the pink sand beach snorkeling … ✔️ … the latter only possible on a private tour since the ship’s tours do not have this option.

    Today, before retreating to the cool comfort of our cabin, I took some photos from Deck 10 … surprised to see how “brown” the island is this time of the year. When we visited in 2017, the landscape was mostly-covered with lush, green vegetation. Of course, we were here in March then … after the “wet” had promoted regrowth of the vegetation. You’ll see the difference in the collage I’m including with this footprint. I tried to duplicate the shot from 2017 as closely as I could considering our anchorage is slightly different today … and there is a thicker heat-haze hanging in the air.

    (The story for our 2017 Komodo stop is here for anyone who is interested in reading it … https://2totravelrtw180.blogspot.com/2017/03/da…)
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  • Cruising the Timor Sea

    1 de enero de 2024, Savu Sea ⋅ 🌙 86 °F

    Our Australian Circumnavigation has two ports of call in another country … Indonesia.

    We spent today cruising the Timor Sea to get there. At the moment, we are near the island nation of Timor-Leste. We still have a morning at sea tomorrow before we arrive at our first Indonesian stop. In the meantime, we enjoyed a relaxing day on Regatta … the Timor Sea treating us as gently as the Arafura did.

    Dinner in Toscana … followed by the encore performance by Danny Elliott, the multi-instrumentalist we enjoyed a few nights ago. Once again, he earned the standing ovation he received from the audience.
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  • Darwin, NT

    31 de diciembre de 2023, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 93 °F

    The Top End, where Darwin is located in the Northern Territory, has two seasons. Dry and wet … the latter lasting from December through April. Nonetheless, for our visit on the last day of not just December, but of 2023 as well, we had blue skies. That it was hot and humid goes without saying as that seems to be the norm for these parts.

    On a cooler day, we would have followed the pathway from Fort Hill Wharf where Regatta docked and taken the elevator from the Waterfront Precinct to the Darwin CBD. Not today. Instead, we hopped on the shuttle to the drop off at the Visitor Center near the Smith Street Mall.

    With the feels like temp expected to top 111F (and it did), our plan was to stay indoors … somewhere interesting and fun … with A/C. To that end, with the locals recommending against the public bus — we got the distinct impression that the bus depot is not in the safest neighborhood — we Ubered to the Museum & Art Gallery of the Northern Territory … MAGNT.

    Arriving with 30 minutes to spare before the museum opened at 10:00a, we wandered down to the beach for a stroll on the hard-packed sand at low tide. A lovely breeze made for pleasant conditions … if only briefly.

    MAGNT bills itself as the “Northern Territory’s premier cultural organization.” Located at Bullocky Point, it is home to cultural and scientific collections, hosting a variety of exhibits. It is a fantastic place to visit … in fact, we were there so long that the women at the front desk couldn’t help commenting on it.

    The galleries feature a variety of exhibits … from Telstra’s NATSIAA (National Aboriginal & Torres Strait Islanders Art Awards); to Darwin before and after the devastation wreaked by Cyclone Tracy; to Transformations … tracing the evolution of Australia’s natural history; and more. Of course, we also made sure to visit Sweetheart, the crocodile that has become an icon of the region!

    As well-done as the entire museum is, I have to admit that the art by Aboriginal and Torres Strait People was what charmed us the most.

    Chats with the locals while awaiting the shuttle into the city had made it clear that very little would be open around the CBD — this being New Year’s Eve … and Sunday, to boot. So, we opted to have lunch at the Saltwater @ Bundilla … the café at the museum. It was simply too hot out on the deck … best to sit inside. While the café didn’t have much ambiance and the menu was limited, the food was very good.

    Taking an Uber back into the city, we couldn’t resist getting off at the far end of the Smith Street Mall for a stroll to check it out as we made our way to the shuttle stop. It was quite dead … one local remarking that everyone was at home “getting ready to party in the New Year.”

    We’ll be returning to Darwin a few times during our overland as it is the gateway for a couple of our planned activities. Perhaps we will have better luck with the heat then to check out some of the other things the area has to offer.

    Now to see if we can stay up to see the New Year in!
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  • Cruising the Arafura: O Club Party

    30 de diciembre de 2023, Arafura Sea ⋅ ⛅ 86 °F

    Last day of 3 days at sea.

    And the Arafura Sea was once again good to us … flat calm sea state. Another relaxing day at sea for us … with a busy wrap up.

    Who knew?

    We are so used to hearing “most-traveled” passengers on Oceania having 1,000-1,500 days with the cruise line that we never expected to be recognized as such … with just 526 days. In hindsight, to be expected, I suppose. The passenger complement on this cruise consists of 333 repeaters and 277 first timers … with the first two levels of the loyalty club (Blue and Bronze) outweighing the upper tiers (Silver through Diamond) by a very large margin.

    It was a fun Club Party, which we followed with dinner at the Polo Grill. Then we went to see the encore performance of “Buddy’s Back” … a high-energy tribute to Buddy Holly, who, despite a career that lasted only two years — he was killed in an airplane crash — is considered a pioneer of rock ‘n roll in the fifties. Scot Robin, who played the lead role in the smash-hit musical, “Buddy” was the headliner. Great show.

    After three days at sea, tomorrow we have a port of call … and it promises to be a very hot one!
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  • Cruising the Arafura Sea

    29 de diciembre de 2023, Arafura Sea ⋅ ⛅ 86 °F

    Day 2 of 3 days at sea.

    Overnight, we turned west around the Cape York Peninsula and are now cruising along the Top End of Australia.

    The Arafura Sea is treating us well … flat calm seas. Sunshine and a less-humid 86F for a high. A beautiful day to be at sea. Definitely a relaxing one.

    When we embarked Regatta in Sydney, Ben, who mans the Specialty Dining Reservations Desk, managed to get our reservations sorted out for our days at sea on this segment. Tonight, we once again dined at Toscana.

    We don’t always go to the shows in the Regatta Lounge. Tonight, we made an exception and went to see Danny Elliott, billed as Australia’s premier multi-instrumentalist and vocal entertainer. His high-energy show did not disappoint. The guy’s reputation is well earned.
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  • Itinerary Change #4: No Cooktown For Us!

    28 de diciembre de 2023, Coral Sea ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    Day 1 of 3 days at sea.

    Instead of visiting Cooktown on the Cape York Peninsula of Far North Queensland today, we are having a sea day … cruising the Coral Sea … weaving in and out of the Great Barrier Reef as we make on our way to Darwin.

    We are 0 for 2 where Cooktown is concerned.

    The first time Cooktown was canceled was on our 2017 world cruise. On that occasion, the culprit was the weather. Insignia got as far as lowering its tenders to transport pier-side paraphernalia to prepare for the arrival of passengers. The tenders turned back before they ever got ashore. The seas were just too rough; the rain was coming down in sheets.

    The weather is the culprit for this cancelation as well. Not the weather at present however, as we are having a sunny day today … with calm seas and light winds. Rather, the weather in question this time is ex Cyclone Jasper.

    The first named storm of the 2023-2024 Cyclone Season for Australia, Jasper formed on 2 December, became a Category 4 severe tropical cyclone at its peak on 8 December, and finally dissipated on 18 December. Long-lived definitely, it brought disastrous, drenching rain … dropping some 88.5+ inches in places … with sustained winds in the range of 120-140 mph.

    Having watched the news coverage of the storm while we were in Sydney, we were pleasantly surprised that we were able to dock in Cairns yesterday. We kept our fingers crossed for Cooktown. But when we found the cancelation letter from GM Dimitris in the cabin upon departure from Townsville on the 26th, we were not surprised.

    Last night, Captain Giulio further explained the reasoning for the cancelation. The Australian Government has designated the Far North QLD as a natural disaster area. The military has been activated to help with the clean-up. Communities remain cut off. And contaminated water carries bacteria that can lead to some serious illness. IMHO … all good reasons for us to not venture into the area.

    Our thoughts are with all the people affected by the disaster. Hopefully the area will have recovered by the time we drive back up this way on our overland. Perhaps third time will be the charm for Cooktown.
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  • Cairns, QLD

    27 de diciembre de 2023, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 86 °F

    While there are other towns and cities from which one can get out to the Great Barrier Reef (GBR), Cairns is generally accepted as “the place” to do so. In fact, the city’s economy is heavily dependent on GBR-based activities.

    When Insignia stopped here in 2017, we flew out to the GBR in a helicopter, landed on a pontoon, and after the snorkeling activities were completed, we returned to Cairns by boat. This gave me a chance to see the reef from the air since I am not a snorkeler. Mui enjoyed his time in the water.

    Today, he snorkeled the GBR again. This time on a ship’s tour that went out to the Marine World Pontoon. Two hours to get out there … four hours at the pontoon where he spent much of his time in the water … two hours to get back. He said that the coral was hit and miss … 45% living. Colorful fish were plentiful. No stingers to worry about. No images from his experience, I’m afraid, since he can’t process his GoPro footage until we get home.

    (Link to our photo gallery from 2017 if you wish to see photos of the GBR from the air … just scroll past all the animal/bird photos from the Dome in Cairns … now closed — https://eenusa.smugmug.com/RTW-2017/Voyage/Cair….)

    My plan, while Mui was out on the GBR, was to take the Kuranda Rail up into the rainforest. A solo outing that I was looking forward to. Alas, Tropical Cyclone Jasper, which hit northern Queensland with all its ferocity earlier in December, put paid to those plans. A few days ago, I received notification that due to storm damage to the range, the train service was canceled.

    So, I went for a wander around Cairns instead.

    To get some respite from the humid heat, my meanderings were centered around indoor venues … with good A/C. The Art Gallery of Cairns and the Courthouse Art Gallery are both small venues and didn’t take up too much of my time. The Cairns Gallery, unfortunately, was closed.

    Next, I headed to the Cairns Aquarium where I saw the denizens of the oceans, reefs, and rivers. I guess you could say that I went snorkeling, too … I just didn’t get wet!
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  • Townsville, QLD

    26 de diciembre de 2023, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 84 °F

    New-to-Us Port #2.

    Located on the north eastern shore of Queensland, Townsville is the gateway to the central portion of the Great Barrier Reef.

    Magnetic Island, a popular place to go snorkeling, is just a short ferry ride away. But we plan to do that when we drive up north along the shore later during our Australian adventure. So, today we hopped on the courtesy shuttle from the cruise terminal to the CBD to check out the city.

    Our plan was to stroll The Strand, a promenade fronting a tropical beach, and then go to the Reef HQ, an aquarium filled with flora and fauna native to the Great Barrier Reef. No can do on the latter … it’s closed for Boxing Day. As a matter of fact, the entire city had a deserted vibe. The only places where we saw people in large numbers were at the water playgrounds on The Strand.

    As hot as today was — 97F at one point before noon — one would expect the beach to be packed. Nope. This is stinger season … and the stingers in Australia can be downright deadly. For that same reason, Mui stayed away from the beach as well.

    Our 1.5-mile stroll took us to the gates of the Jezzine Barracks. But we made it no further. The sun was blazing hot. There was no breeze to provide relief away from the shoreline. Nor any shade. Deciding that the barracks would just have to go on the “later” list, we looked around for a place to grab some food … preferably somewhere with A/C. No luck. So, we ordered up an Uber to return us to the CBD.

    Thanks to our Uber driver, we found the only restaurant that seemed to be open … The Courtyard on City Lane. On a non-holiday weekday, the place I am sure would be hopping. Not today. Except for a family of four, we were the only ones there. No matter … the beer was ice cold; the cheeseburger spring rolls were piping hot, and both the burger and the pork pibil tacos were tasty.

    After lunch, we walked the short distance to the shuttle stop and managed to snag a couple of the last few seats remaining. The A/C upon entering the cruise terminal was like manna from heaven … a cold shower once back in the cabin was even better.
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  • Cruising the Coral Sea

    25 de diciembre de 2023, Great Barrier Reef ⋅ ⛅ 82 °F

    Wishing all who celebrate a very Merry Christmas!

    For us, it was a quiet day at sea. Did nothing to break our sea day routine … except to have dinner at the Polo Grill tonight.

    So, this is a few words and one photo post … just to get a footprint on the map for today.Leer más

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