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Ahmet Erkun
Ahmet Erkun

Ahmet Erkun

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    The Ephesos Museum is housed in the Neue Burg Wing of the Hofburg complex — Vienna, Austria.
    Looking up into the dome of the Neue Burg Wing ... Ephesos Museum — Vienna, Austria.Ceiling detail from the Neue Burg Wing ... Ephesos Museum — Vienna, Austria.Torso of a Cuirassed Statue ... Roman; 2nd century AD ... Ephesos Museum — Vienna, Austria.Statue of Nemesis, the Goddess of Divine Retribution, with a griffin to her left ... Roman; c 200 ADAthlete from Ephesus ... Roman; late 1st century ... Ephesos Museum — Vienna, Austria.Top: South Gate & Celsus Library (1903) / Bottom: South Gate & Celsus Library (2010).Octagon: Tomb of Arsinoe ... Roman; last quarter of the 1st century BC — Ephesos Museum.Panorama of relief tablets and fragments from a monumental frieze from the Parthian Monument.Parthian Monument ... the four emperors: Marcus Aurelius, Antoninus Pius, Lucius Verus, Hadrian.Parthian Monument, depicting the triumph of the Romans over their enemies ... Ephesos Museum.Parthian Monument ... wounded leader of the barbarians is shown collapsed on his horse.Parthian Monument: Apollo and Artemis riding their chariots... Ephesos Museum — Vienna, Austria.Parthian Monument: the Emperor climbing a quadriga, a chariot drawn by four horses — Ephesos Museum.Roman period sculpture ... Ephesos Museum — Vienna, Austria.

    Vienna: Ephesos Museum @ Hofburg

    11 października 2024, Austria ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Leaving Demel with sated tummies, we returned to the St Michael’s Wing of Hofburg, walked through the gate into what was once the castle inner square, out the back gate to Heldenplatz, and made our way to Hofburg’s Neue Burg [New Castle]. Built during the last expansion of the palace complex, the wing was completed in 1913. Housed inside are a number of museums … Ephesos, Ethnology, Arms and Armour, and Musical Instruments.

    Our destination — the Ephesos Museum — was a surprise find from this morning. Why a surprise? Because we had no idea there was a museum in Vienna that exhibited archaeological finds from Ephesus, one of the most important cities of antiquity … one that served as the capital of the Roman Empire’s Asia Province. A little more than an hour’s drive from my hometown of İzmir, Türkiye, Mui and I have been to Ephesus numerous times and have noted the changes resulting from the continued excavation of the ruins.

    Austrian archaeologists worked on the excavations starting in 1895. Thanks to a controversial agreement between the Ottoman Empire and Austria numerous high quality artifacts that the Austrian archaeologists recovered were removed to Vienna … gifts from Sultan Albdul Hamid to Emperor Franz Joseph. Initially on display at the Theseus Temple in the Volksgarten, the artifacts are now housed in the Ephesos Museum.

    [Austria isn’t the only country where artifacts from cities of antiquity in Türkiye ended up outside the borders. The practice of allowing foreign excavations to remove artifacts is now generally banned by the 1907 Turkish Antiquities Law.]

    Keeping the rest of our plans in mind, we opted to purchase admission just for the Ephesos Museum … €7.50/person (senior rate). Not sure I can say that what we paid was worth what we saw.

    It’s not that the artifacts themselves were an issue. We saw some amazing pieces, including relief panels and fragments from one of the most important Ephesian monuments … the Parthian Monument. Rather, the problem was that the second floor of the museum was closed for a photo shoot and we were not made aware of that in advance. So, we missed out on seeing at least half of the museum. Anyway, we registered our dissatisfaction on our way out.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    Welcome to Demel ... confectioner to the royal court — Vienna, Austria.
    Let's see what kind of goodies are on the menu ... Demel — Vienna, Austria.Esterházy Torte for me; Sachertorte for Mui; and a Brie baguette to share ... Demel — Vienna.Meandering around the shop after our 'sweet lunch' ... Demel — Vienna, Austria.Making nougat treats (ssshhh! He gave Mui a taste) ... Demel — Vienna, Austria.Sachertorte can be ordered in different sizes ... Demel — Vienna, Austria.2One of the creative cake displays ... Demel — Vienna, Austria.Box of chocolates to go ... we resisted the temptation ... Demel — Vienna, Austria.Cat's tongue cookies ... plain or chocolate-covered ... Demel — Vienna, Austria.A fancy cake on display in the window ... Demel — Vienna, Austria.Candied violets and rose petals ... a favorite of Empress Sisi ... Demel — Vienna, Austria.Mui enjoying a chocolate covered chestnut ... Demel — Vienna, Austria.

    Vienna: Sweet Lunch @ Demel

    11 października 2024, Austria

    It was getting on towards 11:30a when we left Hofburg. Tummies growling … time for lunch.

    Since it was a short walk from Hofburg, we decided to follow Esin’s suggestion and go to Demel for coffee and cake in lieu of lunch.

    Demel has a history that dates back to 1786 … when it was a confectioner to the royal court. While there is no royalty these days, Demel prides itself on continuing to uphold the quality of their goods and is still known for its elaborate window displays that harken back to the “… Vienna of a more decadent era.”

    The place was hopping when we arrived, but there was no line waiting to be seated. Soon we were at a table in the café on the first floor.

    After perusing the menu, we decided to split a baguette sandwich — Brie and fig mustard (more like a jam, really). A double espresso, and later a melange (similar to cappuccino, but made with milder coffee), for Mui … Earl Gray tea for me. When it came to ordering a cake, however, we couldn’t agree on one to share. So, we ordered two.

    Mui got Austria’s iconic sachertorte … the origins of which date back to 1832. This chocolate cake, layered with jam (often apricot) is usually very dense … almost to the point of being dry. Esin had told Mui that the moistest version was found at Demel … she did not steer him wrong.

    My choice was the Esterhâzy Torte … a cake that originated in Hungary in the late 19th century. Named for a member of the dynasty by the same name, it became famous in the lands of the Austrian-Hungarian Empire. The cake consists of buttercream spiced with cognac or vanilla, sandwiched between four or five layers of almond meringue cake. Delicious.

    While the cakes were good, it seemed like the servers were having an off day … or they were simply overwhelmed. Their order taking process seemed quite haphazard … or if there was a method to what they were doing, it was only apparent to them.

    Nonetheless, we enjoyed our ‘food break’ after a busy morning of sightseeing.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    Audience Waiting Room ... is Mui waiting for an audience with the emperor? ... Hofburg — Vienna.
    Audience Chamber where Franz Joseph received petitioners ... Hofburg — Vienna.Conference Room ... where Franz Joseph chaired ministerial conferences ... Hofburg — Vienna.A bust of Radetzky — and his ceremonial sword — in the Conference Room ... Hofburg — Vienna.Franz Joseph's Study ... this portrait of Sisi was his favorite ... Hofburg — Vienna.Franz Joseph's bedroom ... after the imperial couple moved into separate bedrooms ... Hofburg.The large salon where Franz Joseph received visits from his family ... Hofburg — Vienna.Sisi's bedroom ... originally shared with the emperor until he moved out in 1870 ... Hofburg.Sisi's bedroom and drawing room ... Hofburg — Vienna.Sisi's dressing and exercise room ... where she spent most of her time ... Hofburg — Vienna.Sisi's exercise equipment ... wall bars, high bar, and rings in the doorway ... Hofburg — Vienna.Sisi's lavatory and bathroom ... Hofburg — Vienna.The Bergl Room ... decorated with trompe l'oeil murals commissioned by Maria Theresa ... Hofburg.The Bergl Room ... decorated with trompe l'oeil murals commissioned by Maria Theresa ... Hofburg.Sisi's large salon ... here she and Franz Joseph occasionally breakfasted together ... Hofburg.Canova's statue of Napoleon's sister (altered to represent an idealized muse) ... Sisi's large salonAnteroom leading to the Alexander Apartments ... Hofburg, Vienna.The Boucher Room (Red Salon) is decorated with 18th century Gobelin tapestries ... Hofburg, Vienna.The dining room where the imperial family had Sunday dinner together ... Hofburg, Vienna.3Photo op in what was one the Inner Castle Square — Hofburg, Vienna.

    Vienna: Hofburg … Imperial Apartments

    11 października 2024, Austria ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    As I mentioned in the previous post, the Hofburg Palace Complex was the winter residence of the Habsburgs.

    Built in the 13th century — and expanded several times over the course of their 630+ years of rule — it consists of multiple buildings … including residences, a chapel, a library, a treasury, a theater, and a riding school to name but a few. Hofburg, as a word, means “Castle of the Court” … which refers back to its Middle Age origins. Back then it had a more-castle-like look.

    Just as it was the seat of government during the monarchy, it’s been the official residence and office of Austrian President since 1946. The 18 wings, 19 courtyards, and 2,600 rooms have been repurposed as a conference center, government offices, museums, and such. One source says nearly 5,000 people still work and live in the former palace complex.

    Over the course of our stay in Vienna, we will be visiting several of the buildings. This morning, however, our visit to the Sisi Museum in the Imperial Chancellery Wing, led us to Amalienburg to check out the imperial apartments of Emperor Franz Joseph and Empress Elizabeth (Sisi).

    It was in these rooms that the Emperor and Sisi lived and worked until the end of the monarchy. To say that red is the dominant color in most of the rooms would not be an understatement. The Rococo style rooms have rich stucco work gilded in gold. Bohemian crystal chandeliers twinkle from the ceiling. Tiled stoves that once heated the rooms now serve as part of the decorative furnishings. Portraits and sculptures — and many other priceless artifacts — adorn the walls, shelves, and tables.

    I enjoyed wandering through these rooms more than the ones at Schloss Schönbrunn. Just as opulent as the ones there, these rooms had more of the imperial ambiance I was expecting, yet they were more intimate somehow.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    St Michael's Wing of Hofburg, the former imperial palace of the Habsburgs — Vienna, Austria.
    A poster of Empress Elizabeth welcomes visitors to the Sisi Museum ... Hofburg — Vienna, Austria.Pen & ink drawing for a novel about Sisi published in installments ... Sisi Museum — Vienna, AustriaPortrait of Empress Elizabeth wearing ivy-shaped jewelry ... Sisi Museum — Vienna, Austria.Replica of the ball gown worn by Sisi before leaving for her wedding in Vienna.Lithograph ... "The Arrival" ... celebrating the arrival of the bride — young Sisi — in Austria.Replica of the coronation gown Sisi wore to the ceremony in Hungary in 1867 ... Sisi Museum.Sisi's private train car ... Sisi Museum — Vienna, Austria.Representation of the assassination of Sisi in Geneva ... Sisi Museum — Vienna, Austria.Photos of the dress Sisi was wearing when she was stabbed with a nail file ... Sisi Museum — Vienna.Lithograph of Sisi lying in state at Hofburg with her husband Franz Joseph at her side.Death mask of Empress Elizabeth ... Sisi Museum — Vienna, Austria.

    Vienna: Hofburg … Sisi Museum

    11 października 2024, Austria ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    This morning again started with all things Habsburg.

    We arrived at St Michael’s Square a few minutes before our 9:00a self-guided tour of the imperial apartments and the museum at Hofburg. The doors were not yet open; only one person was in line … a couple more people showed up after we were invited inside. By the time we left, the crowds had grown, so I’m glad we had another early-start day.

    During the 630+ years that the Habsburgs ruled over Austria, many dukes, archdukes, and emperors sat on the throne. Some loved … some hated. There was also one ruling empress — Maria Theresa — who was much loved by the people for her courage, generosity, and kindness.

    There was one other empress whose name seems to pop up even more often than Maria Theresa — Empress Elizabeth … Sisi as she is known worldwide.

    Sisi was famous not just for her glamour, but also because she cared for the ordinary people. In her will she apparently designated part of her fortune to be used for good causes benefiting the needy and persecuted. A gift that keeps on giving. In fact, I found an article on the UN Refugee Agency website indicating that they are supported in part by that gift for the work they do in the countries of the former Habsburg Empire.

    Today, we learned a bit more about Sisi when we visited the museum dedicated to her … housed in the Stephan apartments at Hofburg, the palace complex in the Vienna city center that served as the winter residence of the imperial family.

    The museum is small. The items on display mostly consist of personal items or replicas of the same. Sisi is portrayed in some quarters as being moody, intellectual, emotionally disturbed, beauty-obsessed … a complicated person. The intent of the museum is to “… illustrate the true personality of the frequently misunderstood Empress.” The exhibits were bookended with her death — a death mask and funeral images reproduced from lithographs at the front end … the story of her assassination at the back end.

    I knew that Sisi had been assassinated in Geneva … in 1898. What I didn’t know was that it was by happenstance. She just happened to be in the wrong place at the wrong time.

    The assassin — an Italian anarchist — was apparently in Geneva to kill Prince Henri of Orléans. When the Prince changes his travel plans, the assassin turns his attention to Sisi instead. He attacks her as she is about to board a ship back home … his weapon of choice a nail file.

    Neither Sisi nor her lady-in-waiting realize that she has been stabbed in the breast … they believe that she was simply knocked over. They continue with their plans to board the ship and it’s not until the ship has sailed that Siri collapses and the inconspicuous wound is found. The ship returns to shore immediately, but it is too late and Sisi dies at the hotel to which she is taken.

    A sad ending to the life of Austria’s beloved Sisi.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    2The Wiener Staatsoper was built between 1861-1869 — Vienna, Austria.
    1The main staircase at the State Opera House — Vienna, Austria.The main staircase at the State Opera House — Vienna, Austria.At the State Opera House — Vienna, Austria.The auditorium at the State Opera House — Vienna, Austria.2At the State Opera House — Vienna, Austria.Our seats are above what was once the imperial box ... Wiener Staatsoper — Vienna, Austria.Swan Lake at the State Opera House — Vienna, Austria.Swan Lake at the State Opera House — Vienna, Austria.

    Vienna: Swan Lake @ the Staatsoper

    10 października 2024, Austria ⋅ 🌫 55 °F

    Around 6:00p, having rested our weary feet and feeling refreshed, we left the apartment for the Wiener Staatsoper [Vienna State Opera].

    Before leaving the US in September, I had checked the schedule of performances at the opera house. There was a different performance staged on each night of our time in Vienna. Some were already sold out; some only had “standing seats”; some were of no interest to us. Tonight’s ballet performance of Swan Lake, however, hit the sweet spot.

    I have tickets booked for the opera house tour later in the week, so I am not going to say much about the building itself in this footprint. And everyone knows the story of Swan Lake, or can look it up on the internet, so no need for a description of the storyline of the ballet either. Suffice to say that the Nureyev-choreographed ballet was beautifully performed … both by the dancers and the musicians.

    It was 10:15p by the time the performance was over … two intermissions adding to the overall length of the ballet. We got home around 10:45p, ready for a good night’s rest.

    Another busy day of sightseeing awaits us tomorrow.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    A delicious lunch ... at Schnitzelwirth — Vienna, Austria.

    Vienna Lunch: When in Wien …

    10 października 2024, Austria ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    … of course you have to have Wiener schnitzel … at least once!

    It was nigh on 1:00p when we left Schloss Schönbrunn. We were both totally wiped out from all the walking and standing around while exploring the palace and the grounds. And we were hungry. Time for lunch. Having lived in Vienna for several years, Esin — Mui’s cousin — had suggested Schnitzelwirt as the place to go to sate our appetite for schnitzel.

    It took us another two-metro-line trip and a 20-minute walk to get to the restaurant. We’d been warned that there could be a queue waiting to be seated. Luckily, it was a short one. The schnitzels were worth the wait … and the order way too plentiful. We could have easily split a single order, which consisted of two plate-size schnitzels. We ate what we could, leaving just enough room in our tummies to share a crepe stuffed with vanilla ice cream. Have to have a sweet treat! We’ll get another meal out of the leftover schnitzels, so all’s good.

    Knowing that our plans for tonight would keep us up late, we decided to head back to the apartment to rest up for a bit.

    It was once again raining when we left Schnitzelwirt. Instead of walking to the metro station for the ride back home, we hopped on the #49 tram … which dropped us off not too far from the apartment. We were a little soggy by the time we unlocked the door … but none the worse for wear.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    Completing the Grand Tour, we head outside to go onto the balcony ... Schloss Schönbrunn — Vienna.
    View from the front balcony ... Schloss Schönbrunn — Vienna, Austria.View of the palace from the pergola in the Privy Garden ... Schloss Schönbrunn — Vienna, Austria.1The palace and the Privy Garden ... Schloss Schönbrunn — Vienna, Austria.The palace and the Privy Garden ... Schloss Schönbrunn — Vienna, Austria.One of the two Naiad Fountains in the park ... Schloss Schönbrunn — Vienna, Austria.The Roman Ruins Fountain in the park ... Schloss Schönbrunn — Vienna, Austria.Roman Ruins Fountain ... the figures represent the gods of the Rivers Danube and Enns — Schönbrunn.Detail from the Roman Ruins Fountain in the park ... Schloss Schönbrunn — Vienna, Austria.The Fair Spring Fountain in the park ... Schloss Schönbrunn — Vienna, Austria.The Neptune Fountain at the top of the Great Parterre in the park ... Schloss Schönbrunn — Vienna.The sculptural grouping of the Neptune Fountain features the great god and his cronies ... SchönbrunThe Neptune Fountain in the park ... Schloss Schönbrunn — Vienna, Austria.The palace and the Great Parterre from behind the Neptune Fountain ... Schloss Schönbrunn — Vienna.The Gloriette ... crowned by an imperial eagle ... Schloss Schönbrunn — Vienna, Austria.View from the Gloriette ... Schloss Schönbrunn — Vienna, Austria.Selfie from the Gloriette ... yes, it was windy ... Schloss Schönbrunn — Vienna, Austria.Gloriette ... Roman armor with shields, standards, and lions ... Schloss Schönbrunn — Vienna.Gloriette ... Schloss Schönbrunn — Vienna, Austria.The central fountain in the Orangery Garden dates back to the 16th century ... Schloss Schönbrunn.

    Vienna: Schloss Schönbrunn (Part II)

    10 października 2024, Austria ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    The forecast today called for a cool to downright chilly day — especially when the wind was blowing and the sun was hiding. Periods of light rain, too.

    Well, wouldn’t you know it? The rain found us when we left the imperial and state apartments behind to stroll the grounds at Schloss Schönbrunn. The good news? By the time we were ready to climb up to the crest of Schönbrunn Hill, the sun was out and the rain had moved on … at least for a while.

    The palace grounds are quite extensive … just under .4 square miles. And like the palace, they are UNESCO-listed. The area referred to as the park was opened to the public in 1779. No admission charged then or now, it is a popular recreational space for both locals and visitors. Some of the gardens — such as the Privy Garden, the Maze, and the Orangery — require admission … in our case, included in the Classic Pass we had pre-booked. (Though today the Orangery seemed to be open to anyone who wished to enter … because it was undergoing some restoration work.)

    A mix of woodland, topiary, flowering shrubs, rare plants, and landscaped parterres make up the grounds … studded with statues and fountains. Alas, this time of the year, there weren’t many colorful flowers to delight us. As lovely as we found the grounds today, I can only imagine how spectacular they must be in the spring and summer.

    We began our stroll — the hoods of our rain jackets pulled up and our umbrellas open to keep the camera from getting wet — at the Kronprinzengarten [Crown Princes’s Garden] … more commonly referred to as the Privy Garden. Dating back to the 18th century, it served as a private retreat for the imperial family. On three sides is a pergola covered in Virginia creeper. Providing shade when the sun is shining, today it served to shield us from the rain. Between the palace and the viewing platform, landscaped parterres added an element of formality to the scene our eyes beheld.

    From this garden, we found the turnstile that got us into the park. We followed long, pebble-strewn dirt paths … meandering here and there to check out some of the statues and water features … small and large … the highlights of which for us were the Roman Ruins Fountain (once known as the Ruin of Carthage; built in 1778) and the Neptune Fountain (the crowning feature of the Great Parterre; commissioned by Empress Maria Theresa in the 1770s).

    From the Great Parterre we followed the zig-zag path up Schönbrunn Hill to the Gloriette, a colonnaded belvedere that was built in 1775.

    We thank the sun for gracing us with blue skies at this point as the view down towards the palace — with Vienna stretching far beyond it — was simply the crowning touch to our visit to Schloss Schönbrunn.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    Welcome to Schloss Schönbrunn, the summer residence of the Habsburgs — Vienna, Austria.
    The Emperor's Audience Chamber ... Schloss Schönbrunn — Vienna, Austria.Oversized paintings of Franz Joseph and Sisi hang in his study ... Schloss Schönbrunn — Vienna.Franz Joseph's bedroom ... Schloss Schönbrunn — Vienna, Austria.Empress Sisi's dressing room ... Schloss Schönbrunn — Vienna, Austria.Empress Sisi's Salon was her reception room ... Schloss Schönbrunn — Vienna, Austria.The Marie Antoinette Room served as the family dining room ... Schloss Schönbrunn — Vienna, Austria.The Breakfast Cabinet ... Schloss Schönbrunn — Vienna, Austria.The Yellow Salon ... Schloss Schönbrunn — Vienna, Austria.One of the three Rosa Rooms ... Schloss Schönbrunn — Vienna, Austria.The Great Gallery ... amazing frescoes ... Schloss Schönbrunn — Vienna, Austria.Ceiling detail from the Great Gallery ... Schloss Schönbrunn — Vienna, Austria.The Round Chinese Cabinet ... Schloss Schönbrunn — Vienna, Austria.The Hall of Ceremonies ... Schloss Schönbrunn — Vienna, Austria.The Vieux Laque Room is decorated with black lacquer panels ... Schloss Schönbrunn — Vienna, AustriaThe Napoleon Room ... Schloss Schönbrunn — Vienna, Austria.The Porcelain Room was Maria Theresa's private writing room ... Schloss Schönbrunn — Vienna.The Millions Room is where Maria Theresa granted private audiences ... Schloss Schönbrunn — Vienna.The Gobelin Room ... Schloss Schönbrunn — Vienna, Austria.Empress Maria Theresa's state bed in the Rich Room ... Schloss Schönbrunn — Vienna, Austria.

    Vienna: Schloss Schönbrunn (Part I)

    10 października 2024, Austria ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    Schloss Schönbrunn, the hunting-lodge-turned-imperial-residence of the Habsburgs, has “always been a place of interest to visitors, and the history of sightseeing at the palace did not merely start with the end of the Habsburg Monarchy in 1918.” So explained one of the info panels at the palace.

    At first, only nobility, envoys from other countries, and high-ranking foreigners got to glimpse what was inside the estate. Then came the Vienna World Exhibition of 1873 and Emperor Franz Joseph opened parts of the palace to the public. Tours were conducted of the premises … but the private apartments of the imperial family were strictly off-limits. That was then and things have changed since. These days, visitors stream in by the hundreds — if not thousands — to roam the estate and check out the private apartments. The main grounds are free; admission is charged to go inside the buildings and some of the gardens.

    Today it was our turn to wander the halls of the 1,441-room-estate — OK, so we got to see only 40 of the said rooms during our Grand Tour — and stroll through the grounds to our heart’s content … the rain that plagued us for a while notwithstanding.

    The ‘five-stop, two-metro-line trip’ from our AirBNB to Schloss Schönbrunn took a mere 15 minutes or so … putting us at our destination with time to spare for exterior photos before it was time for our DIY/audioguide tour. We had booked the very first time slot of the day — 8:30a — to avoid the worst of the crowds. Very smart move as it turns out. There were just three other couples when we scanned our tickets and began exploring the palace. It did get more crowded as the morning wore on, but it was nothing like the crowds we saw waiting in the lobby when we left at 12:30p.

    The history of Schönbrunn can be traced back to the Middle Ages. But don’t worry, I am not going to bore you with all that. Nor am I going to delve deep into the history of the estate through the centuries. Anyone interested can find volumes of such information on the internet. Suffice to say that it was 1569 when Schönbrunn came into the hands of the Habsburgs, who ruled Austria — and a number of other countries on and off — from 1282 to 1918.

    Schönbrunn means “beautiful spring” … in reference to the artesian well that provided water to the court. The palace served as the summer residence to many members of the imperial family, including such notable names as Empress Maria Theresa … she received the estate as a wedding gift; and Franz Joseph, the longest reigning Emperor of Austria, and his wife … Sisi as Empress Elizabeth was more commonly known.

    And on that note, let’s take a photo-walk through some of the rooms of Schloss Schönbrunn … a UNESCO World Heritage Site.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    The metro station sign answers the question of where we are headed — Vienna, Austria.

    Busy Sightseeing in Vienna

    10 października 2024, Austria ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    The good news is that we had a great day in Vienna today.

    The bad news is that if today is any indication, I won’t be doing much writing. Simply no spare time to go through photos to share in the footprints. So, don’t worry if you don’t see any posts until we get back to Türkiye. It just means that we are “living the moment” and enjoying our trip.

    In the meantime, I left you all hanging with what our plans were for today. I thought I would at least answer that question. The picture attached to this post says it all.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    On the train into the city — Vienna, Austria.
    Our AirBNB base for four nights — Vienna, Austria.Mui's ready to relax ... but first we have to run our errands and fill the larder — Vienna, Austria.

    Vienna, Austria: Arrived & Settled In

    9 października 2024, Austria ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    An uneventful flight brought us from ADB to VIE.

    We were the only international flight arriving at VIE when we landed early at 12:45p local time. Immigration formalities were easy peasy … plenty of agents on hand to process those of us who did not qualify to use the biometric entry gates.

    Next up … purchasing train tickets and 7-day transportation passes — the former to get us into the city today; the latter to get us around the city. We found the counter in the arrival halls and made our purchase in no time at all. Then it was just a matter of making our way to the Flughafen Wien Station and boarding the next train into the city a few minutes later. Transferring to the U6 (brown) metro line, a short ride put us less than 5 minutes walking distance to the AirBNB apartment that will be our base for four nights.

    Once we were settled in, we headed out to the Billa Plus supermarket … kitty corner from the apartment. We now have our breakfast fixings and some light snacks for evening meals … plan to have our main meal mid-day somewhere convenient to whatever sightseeing plans we have on the calendar that day.

    We’re taking it easy tonight. Tomorrow we have timed-entry tickets bright and early to visit … well, you just have to wait to find out what’s on our agenda for our first full day in Vienna.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    Aircraft being readied to receive us ... at ADB — İzmir, Türkiye.

    Our Chariot Awaits

    9 października 2024, Turcja ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Our aircraft is at Gate 232, being prepared for the ADB-VIE flight.

    Looks like an on time departure might be in the cards for us 🤞🏻

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    On the way to the airport via IZBAN ... Alsancak Garı, İzmir , Türkiye.

    On Our Way to ADB

    9 października 2024, Turcja ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    We are on the way to the airport for our flight to Vienna.

    Traffic is horrible during the morning rush hour. So, we took a cab from the apartment to the Alsancak Tren Garı [train terminal]. And then hopped on the light rail — IZBAN — to the airport.

    While we had to pay for the taxi ($2.92), the ride on IZBAN is free for us — benefit of age 😁. Convenient and free … the best of both worlds!     Czytaj więcej

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    The hanging zipcube ... in packing/hanging mode. Mui still has a few compartments to fill.
    The hanging zipcube ... compressed and ready to go. (Max size in this mode ... 13"x9"x5.5")

    Packing Day & Hanging Zipcubes

    8 października 2024, Turcja ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    We’re off to Vienna, Austria tomorrow for a pre-cruise stay before we embark Viking’s Longship Rinda on the 13th.

    What does that mean?

    Packing! Ugh!!!!

    River cruises carry an inherent risk. If the water level is too low, the cruise can be disrupted. Similarly, if the water level is too high, the cruise can also be disrupted.

    More often than not, the disruption is in the form of having to be bused between ports. If you’re lucky, you embark another vessel at the port to which you are bused and cruise merrily down the river again. If you are unlucky, you may have to be bused between multiple ports, overnighting on different ships or hotels in between.

    In any event, being bused essentially means having to pack/unpack your bags … as many times as necessary.

    To ease the chore of having to pack/unpack — should it become necessary to do so — we purchased a couple of Biaggi Hangmates Hanging Zipcubes on sale … in lieu of investing in new luggage with built-in shelves. We’ll hang the de-compressed zipcubes in the closet in our cabin and keep our clothes nice and tidy on the shelves. If it becomes necessary to re-pack for a bus transfer, we’ll just compress the zipcubes, place them in our bags, collect our toiletries, and voilà … we’ll be ready to go.

    I was able to pack all the clothing I am taking on the river cruise — two week’s worth of mix & match outfits, smalls, socks, and what have you — on the shelves and easily compress them into the built in cube. If I worked at it, I could probably get three weeks worth of clothes into the cube.

    Technically, if we didn’t have walking boots, cold-weather and rain gear, toiletries, and electronics and camera accoutrements, we could just carry the cubes onto the airplane, and then de-compress and hang them when we get to our destination. But since we do have that extra stuff, we are traveling with a small suitcase each. The cube sits in the bottom of the bag; and the top half holds all the other stuff (which we will pull out of the bag as necessary). Of course, we have small carry-on bags as well for electronics, meds, and such … stuff that we would never put in checked bags.

    Though it might not seem so to some readers, we are traveling quite light for this cruise … definitely much lighter than usual. We just need to put last minute items in our bags tomorrow morning and then we’re off.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    Happy Hour with Esin & Cenap ... Kadınlar Plajı — Kuşadası, Aydın.
    View of Kadınlar Plajı from Mui's room — Kuşadası, Aydın.Sunset @ Kadınlar Plajı — Kuşadası, Aydın.Kadınlar Plajı — Kuşadası, Aydın.Along the waterfront promenade in the city center — Kuşadası, Aydın.One of the three ships in port today — Kuşadası, Aydın.Kuşadası, Aydın.Güvercin Adası (Pigeon Island) — Kuşadası, Aydın.Güvercin Adası (Pigeon Island) — Kuşadası, Aydın.Kuşadası, Aydın.Waterfront promenade in the city — Kuşadası, Aydın.Some of the marble statues along the waterfront promenade — Kuşadası, Aydın.Men playing Okey (similar to Rummy) at a coffee house — Kuşadası, Aydın.Kuşadası, Aydın.Downtown street in Kuşadası, Aydın.Painted steps in downtown Kuşadası, Aydın.Cats & Fish ... downtown Kuşadası, Aydın.Lunch with friends from high school — Kuşadası, Aydın.Scenes from the swim meet @ Kadınlar Plajı — Kuşadası, Aydın.Celebration dinner after the swim meet @ Kadınlar Plajı — Kuşadası, Aydın.

    Mui’s Weekend in Kuşadası

    6 października 2024, Turcja ⋅ ⛅ 81 °F

    Kuşadası, often thought to be a municipality of the Province of İzmir — because neighboring Selçuk is indeed a municipality of İzmir — actually is part of the Province of Aydın. What was a small beach town when I was growing up, is now a big city … popular with tourists for its beaches, and also because of its proximity to the ruins of Ephesus, a city of antiquity.

    Mui and I have both spent quite a bit of time in Kuşadası … both as children and as adults. This time, however, he went off on his own for a two-night getaway.

    Actually, I take that back. He went with his cousin Esin and her husband, Cenap. His purpose for the trip was two-fold — to cheer on Esin, Cenap, and Murat, who were participating in a swim meet on the 5th; and to visit with some friends from high school who happen to be vacationing in Kuşadası. As a bonus, he managed to take a dip or two at Kadınlar Plajı, the beach fronting the hotel and the site of the swim meet. He also did a bit of sightseeing in the city center, taking photos for this footprint as he strolled along the waterfront.

    From what I can tell, a good time was had by all!

    P.S. Kadınlar Plajı translates as Women’s Beach. Tradition has it that this is the beach in the story of Ulysses where, distracted by Sirens, seafarers ran aground. Hence the name.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    Gull at sunset ... Alsancak — İzmir, Türkiye.

    Gull @ Sunset

    6 października 2024, Turcja ⋅ ☁️ 84 °F

    Colorful sunset from mom’s terrace …

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    Notification of longship change from Kadlin to Rinda.
    From the Daughter of Nobility to a Goddess we will go.

    Kadlin to Rinda

    5 października 2024, Turcja ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    In the period between September 11-17, Storm Boris brought torrential rains and strong winds to Central Europe. At least 24 people died as a result of the storm. Mandatory evacuations were ordered in some places along the River Danube. Heavy flooding resulted in quite a bit of devastation in cities large and small along the river … Vienna and Budapest amongst them. River traffic — both passenger and cargo — came to a halt.

    During the storm, and in its aftermath, river boats and ships — such as the Viking longship we were scheduled to embark next week — had to seek safe shelter where they could because they were unable to pass under bridges along the Danube or were stranded because canal locks were inoperable.

    All that has since passed. River traffic is now plying the waters of the Danube; water levels have gone down and flooding has ceased; work is ongoing to erase the ravages wrought by the storm.

    But because the river cruise ships were unable to get where they were supposed to go, it became necessary to cancel some cruises, reschedule some ports, and swap ships.

    Thankfully, we have not been impacted by a cancelation or rescheduling. But we will no longer be sailing the Longship Kadlin … the “Daughter of a Norse Nobleman.” Instead, on 13 October, we will be embarking the Longship Rinda …. the “Norse Goddess of the Frozen Earth.”

    Rinda is a sister ship that is an exact twin of the Kadlin. Thus, as the notification email we received from Viking states, “… all other aspects of your trip, including your stateroom selection, itinerary, and any extensions you may have booked with us, will remain the same.”

    Now we keep our fingers crossed that all goes smoothly once we embark upon our Danube cruise.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    1Breakfast outing ... the three siblings and mom ... at P'an-Ku — Alsancak, İzmir.
    Deniz checking out the pancake breakfast platter ... at P'an-Ku — Alsancak, İzmir.2Pancake breakfast platter for three ... at P'an-Ku — Alsancak, İzmir.Avocado toast for sharing ... at P'an-Ku — Alsancak, İzmir.

    Breakfast @ P’an-Ku

    5 października 2024, Turcja ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    With Mui and Murat both in Kuşadası today — the former to meet up with friends from high school; the latter to participate in a swim meet — I took the rest of the family out for breakfast.

    On Aylin’s suggestion — she knows all the best places — we went to P’an-Ku … a pancake place just a few streets over from mom’s apartment building. She definitely did not steer us wrong!

    Yummy food!     Czytaj więcej

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    2"Carpet Fields" by H. İçel (Türkiye) — Alsancak ... İzmir, Türkiye.
    "Colorful Textiles" by T.H. Zaw (Myanmar) — Alsancak ... İzmir, Türkiye."Mr Dee" by A. Timodhevskii (Russia) — Alsancak ... İzmir, Türkiye."Samaj of Holi" by A.K. Ronnie (France) — Alsancak ... İzmir, Türkiye."Working in the Patterns" by P.P.T. Paing (Myanmar) — Alsancak ... İzmir, Türkiye.

    Colors

    28 września 2024, Turcja ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    Mui and I went for a walk with mom today.

    Our steps took us to Kültürpark (Culture Park) … a green space established in the heart of the District of Alsancak in 1936. It’s just a short distance from mom’s apartment. Pleasant weather … lack of crowds … a very nice outing.

    Before turning back to retrace our steps, we took a break at İzmir Sanat Kafe (İzmir Art Café), a popular meeting spot for locals and tourists alike. Cheese toasties; lemon cheesecake; tea and cold beverages … and people watching, of course.

    Just as we were about to leave, I spotted a casual, outdoor art exhibit … featuring some of the winning photos from “Colors,” an International photography contest. As you can tell from the attached images, the contest was aptly named.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    With Moyra & Don in Portland, OR (1982).
    With Moyra in Austin, TX (2015).With Moyra in Kemeraltı (2024) — İzmir, Türkiye.Mui joins Moyra and me in a selfie in Kemeraltı (2024) — İzmir, Türkiye.Ayşa Boşnak Börekçisi ... our lunch spot in Kemeraltı — İzmir, Türkiye.Yummy food at Ayşa Boşnak Börekçisi ... our lunch spot in Kemeraltı — İzmir, Türkiye.

    It’s A Small World

    24 września 2024, Turcja ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    Moyra and I have been friends since our junior high days at the American Collegiate Institute in İzmir.

    She returned to the US for high school, while I remained in Türkiye until after Mui and I got married and made the permanent move to the US in 1982.

    Despite distances — near and far — we managed to continue our friendship … first via snail mail … then via email. When social media made an appearance, staying in touch became easier. We also got together in person a couple of times in the US … first in Portland, Oregon … then in Austin, Texas.

    Moyra didn’t know that we would be in İzmir in September this year. Nor did we know that her travel plans included a bit of time in İzmir around the same dates.

    Then we saw her Facebook post … sharing photos from her outings around Izmir. The rest, you could say, is history. We exchanged a few messages and made plans to have lunch today at Ayşa, a restaurant in the Kemeraltı District.

    It didn’t matter that our last in-person get together was in 2015. Our camaraderie was renewed the instant we saw each other at the designated meeting point for today’s luncheon date … and continued with chatter, laughter, and good food during lunch.

    This get together definitely falls under the “it’s a small world” category.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    Family Dinner — İzmir, Türkiye.
    The two "anniversary couples" — İzmir, Türkiye.A joint cutting of the anniversary cake — İzmir, Türkiye.

    Fam Dinner & Anniversary x2

    20 września 2024, Turcja ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    Hard to believe it's been a week since I last wrote and just under two weeks since we arrived in Izmir.

    Mui has been out and about a few times with Deniz ... mostly to run errands. I have been spending time with mom.

    Aylin and Murat arrived home from Greece on the 18th, so we're now at our usual accommodations. We'll move back to their apartment for a week ... when they leave for their Montenegro trip on the 23rd.

    We had a fun family dinner at mom's tonight. We also belatedly celebrated two anniversaries as both Aylin & Murat and Serenay & Hakan were in Chios on the actual dates earlier this week.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    The clock tower, which dates back to 1901, is İzmir's iconic symbol - Konak, İzmir.
    During an after-errands coffee break, Mui shows off Deniz's new İzmirim Kart — Alsancak, İzmir.1Lunch time! ... Kadınbudu (fried beef patties) — Alsancak, İzmir.

    BIL Outing

    13 września 2024, Turcja ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    While I was busy with mom today, the BILs [brothers in law] went out for errands and food.

    This year, Deniz reached that ‘magic age’ when public transportation in İzmir has become free for him. So, he used the İzmirim Kart app last night to apply for the transit card that will guarantee that he doesn’t get charged for rides on conveyances operated by the municipality … be they on the bus, the metro, or the ferry.

    Mui joined him this morning to go to the municipality office in Konak, the city center, to pick up the card. While they were at it, they also dined out for lunch 😄     Czytaj więcej

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    Deniz and Mui sending cheers to Murat! — İzmir, 🇹🇷.

    Cheers!

    12 września 2024, Turcja ⋅ 🌙 73 °F

    While we were at dinner last night with Mui’s cousins, my brother (Deniz) arrived in İzmir. Like us, he lives in the USA, but has been traveling in Europe for a couple of weeks before joining us here.

    The brothers-in-law enjoyed a pre-dinner Chivas before … sending this photo to the other brother-in-law, Murat, to show him what he is missing while he is in Greece.

    I’m sure there will be a similar photo with the three of them after Aylin & Murat return home next week.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    The grandkids of Naimoş ... and honorary members through marriage 😁 — Alsancak ... İzmir, Türkiye 🇹🇷

    Reunion of the Cousins

    11 września 2024, Turcja ⋅ ⛅ 82 °F

    We’ve been in İzmir a few days now.

    Adjusted to the 9-hour time difference from Colorado. Established our daily routine … at least for now … that will change when we move to our usual digs after Aylin & Murat return home from their trip to the Greek Islands and Montenegro.

    Haven’t done anything exciting in the way of sightseeing yet … but there are plans to do so. In the meantime, we have had a couple of dinners out.

    Tuesday night, we went out with my Mom and Mui’s sister, Işıl … visiting from Eskişehir. We didn’t go far … just to a favorite restaurant that happens to be next door to mom’s apartment building. Forgot to take a photo … oops. But the food was good … as was the company. And a good time was had by all.

    Last night, we joined Mui’s cousins for a reunion dinner.

    The cousins have a WhatsApp group called “Naimoş’un Torunları” (Grandkids of Naimoş … named for their maternal grandmother, Naime). They’re in touch thru text messages, shared photos, and such. There have also been a couple of reunion dinners over the years with a cousin here … a cousin there. This was the first time, however, that all five of the cousins have managed to get together in one place. It was a fun-filled evening with lots of family anecdotes, laughter, and chatter. And toasts to family members no longer with us.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    Flying over Aliağa on our way to ADB.

    Arrived in İzmir

    9 września 2024, Turcja ⋅ 🌙 79 °F

    Our 7:00p flight from İstanbul to İzmir had a slight delay but was otherwise uneventful. Just 45 minutes or so from wheels up to wheels down and we were on the ground at ADB.

    By 9:00p, having collected our luggage, we were on our way into the city.

    We had a short reunion with mom before heading downstairs to Aylin & Murat’s place to get settled in and call it a night.

    Breakfast at mom’s tomorrow. In the meantime, a comfy bed and a good night’s rest is what we have on our minds.

    [for those unfamiliar with the family dynamics … Aylin is my sister; Murat is my brother-in-law]     Czytaj więcej

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  • Fall & Winter 2024
    DEN's unique terminal design — Denver, CO.
    TK202 being prepped for departure @ DEN — Denver, CO.

    At DEN

    8 września 2024, Stany Zjednoczone ⋅ ☀️ 90 °F

    With bags packed yesterday, and a flight departure not until this evening, we had a relaxing start to our travel day.

    The car service picked us up on time. No traffic to hinder our progress … we arrived at DEN at 2:30p … well ahead of schedule.

    The Turkish Airlines (THY) check-in counter was already open with no one queued up … the TSA Pre✔️line was long, but moving steadily. All good omens for our travel day.

    We whiled away a couple of hours at the United Club before coming to our gate. The A350 aircraft that will be taking us across the Atlantic to İstanbul is being prepped. Boarding to commence in 20 minutes.

    Ready to get this trip rolling.     Czytaj więcej

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