• OTR: Hobart to Port Arthur

    26 de janeiro de 2024, Austrália ⋅ 🌬 63 °F

    OTR … simply means “on the road.” It’s the designation that I will use to identify those days where we are moving from one location to another … hopefully with sightseeing along the way … especially when the distance is short … as it was today.

    We drove a mere 59 miles to get to Port Arthur from Hobart. Well, maybe a bit more since we made a few short detours … but nothing that really took us out of our way.

    Our morning stops were all in the Eaglehawk Neck — the 330-foot wide isthmus that links the Forestier Peninsula to the Tasman Peninsula. What today is a “holiday town” was once the site of the infamous “Dogline.” I’ll explain about that in a minute.

    Our first stop was the Tasman National Park Lookout on Pirates Bay Road. Beautiful scenery to whet our appetite for what’s to come as we hope to visit the park on our way north from Port Arthur.

    I had read about Cubed, a roadside café at the lookout — operating out of a restored, solar-powered caravan. It was described as doling out “fastidiously prepared coffee and snacks. Definitely worth taking time out to enjoy a “coffee & brownie break with a view.”

    From the lookout, a short drive took us to the Tessellated Pavement. From the parking lot atop the cliff, we enjoyed beautiful beach views before hiking the short trail down for a closer look at the Pavement … which my Lonely Planet guide described as “… a rocky coastal terrace that has curiously eroded into what looks like tiled paving — it’s geology as geometry.”

    Signage on the trail explained this form of erosion … the tide comes in; saltwater penetrates cracks in the rock; the tide goes out; salt crystals form on and between the grains of the rock as the water evaporates; over time, the salt crystals grow and push the rock apart. A short and sweet lesson in geology.

    Next, we stopped at the Eaglehawk Neck Historic Site … which is associated with Australia’s convict history. The site dates back to 1832 when the first convicts arrived in Port Arthur. Not much remains of the site today … the officer’s quarters are open as a museum … there are a couple of shacks, too. Except for the info panels in the museum, everything is pretty rundown unfortunately.

    We stopped here not so much to see what remains of the military station. Rather, we were curious about the Dogline I mentioned above.

    Back when Port Arthur was a convict penitentiary, a row of “ornery” dogs were chained across the isthmus to prevent convicts from escaping. Wooden platforms extended into the water and were stocked with more dogs to prevent convicts from wading around the Dogline. This, and rumors that the waters were teeming with sharks, were quite the deterrent. Nonetheless, a few men managed to make a successful bid for freedom. Of course, the Dogline doesn’t exist anymore. But there is a statue installed in memory of the dogs that served on the Dogline.

    Instead of retracing our steps back to the car park, we decided to brave the strong wind and return by way of the beach. It was definitely more scenic, even if it was sometimes hard to stand up against the wind.

    Our next stop was to be a place described as not-to-be-missed. We did get there eventually. But first we stopped at a roadside eatery — Van Diemen’s Seafood Shack — for what we would describe as not-to-be-missed fish & chips … despite the wind that was blowing so hard that we thought our food was going to fly off the table any minute.
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  • Hobart: MONA in Berriedale

    25 de janeiro de 2024, Austrália ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    How do I describe MONA … Hobart’s world-renowned Museum of Old & New Art … and our destination today?

    Quirky … weirdly fascinating … edgy … confrontational … x-rated (with a warning to parents about one particular gallery) … overwhelming … cool … out-of-the-ordinary … challenging … easy-to-lose yourself (literally and figuratively … a volunteer told us that if we felt lost, we were doing the museum right). Did I say weirdly-fascinating? Anyway, all those adjectives — and more — fit the museum, which is located on the grounds of a vineyard in Berriedale … about 8 miles north of Hobart.

    The building itself is quite unique as it was constructed within a three-level subterranean cave excavated into the Triassic Period sandstone. The setting is beautiful … overlooking the Derwent River. Even the founder is not your run-off-the-mill millionaire. He apparently made his money as a professional gambler and used those gains to found the museum. Or so I read.

    An article in “Traveller” magazine describes the installations as being “… all over the place, literally and taxonomically.” So true. We saw everything from artifacts from ancient Egyptian sarcophagi to ultra-modern art that made us scratch our heads in wonder … such as “The Confessional” … a pitch dark room you reach by following a felt-covered maze … where anything you say can be heard by passersby on the terrace several stories above you! (Best described here … https://www.oliverbeer.co.uk/copy-of-household-….)

    No visit to MONA is complete without lunch at its signature restaurant — The Source. Mui made reservations to dine there at noon … giving us a break from all the “interesting” things our brains were trying to process. Even here we found something quirky at which to shake our heads … the tables on the terrace were covered entirely with vegetation … plates and drinks placed on metal stands to keep them stable while you dine. Too many bees around the tables, so we skipped this interesting dining opportunity and sat inside. The food was delicious. And as one might expect at MONA … interesting.

    (I don’t have enough space or time to explain in depth some of the art I’ll be posting … Google it if interested.)

    —————————————-

    For those whose curiosity might be piqued by the “food porn” photo, here is what we ate for lunch …

    * Fried buttermilk cauliflower with almond cream, tahini dressing, pomegranate burnt honey, puffed wild rice & garlic crisps

    * Mosaic of Spain consisting of roast line caught local fish, seared scallop, Spanish XO, smoked tomato, squid ink, saffron fennel, roast peppers, confit tomatoes, pickled basil, guindilla

    * Pasta Caprese consisting of tagliatelle, tom yum heirloom tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella foam, zucchini flowers, basil oil, victory garden basil & mint.
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  • Hobart: Guests for Breakfast

    25 de janeiro de 2024, Austrália ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    Caught these critters munching away in the yard of our AirBNB this morning. I didn’t see the second one — perhaps mama since she looked bigger — until the one near the deck hopped over to the back fence.

    At first I thought they were wallabies, but now I am pretty sure they are Tasmanian pademelons.
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  • Exploring Bruny Island, TAS

    24 de janeiro de 2024, Austrália ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    The 15-minute ferry ride from Kettering on mainland Tasmania deposited us at Roberts Point on North Bruny Island.

    In all, Bruny Island is about an hour from Hobart, but it feels like a whole world away. The brochure mentions that people have been “walking her land for over 40,000 years” and invites us to take our turn now.

    Practically everyone who has been to Tasmania has described it as being more similar to New Zealand’s South Island than it is to Australia. The same holds true for Bruny Island. We spent six weeks exploring New Zealand and can see the resemblance.

    There’s a lot of spectacular scenery on Bruny Island … but most of it is hidden behind the trees. Much of the time, you are driving through a “green tunnel” … as we call roads lined with thick trees. Unless you have the time to do some of the hikes, you don’t see the best of what the island has to offer … unfortunately. We did a couple of short walks, but didn’t have time for either of the two hikes listed as being among “Tasmania’s 60 Great Short Walks” … one of which is 9 miles long. I guess short is relative! Finding signposts for the trailheads was another problem

    Our route took us from the ferry landing on North Bruny Island to the lighthouse at the tip of Cape Bruny on South Bruny Island. The two islands are connected by The Neck, a very narrow strip of land just wide enough for a two-lane road.

    We stopped at the Truganini Lookout on the Neck for an aerial view of the strip, and then continued onto Adventure Bay. Along the way, we trod the beach at Two Tree Point … listed on the Tasmanian Heritage Register for its historic and cultural significance. You see, it was here that Captains Furneaux and Cook both replenished their fresh water supplies in the 1770s. Captain Bligh, who visited the same site in 1788 — on the now infamous Bounty — named the creek Resolution River after Cook’s ship.

    Next, we crossed over to the west side of the island where we found the famous “ Bruny Island Bakery.” There is no bakery here. Rather, the baker brings fresh sourdough bread and ANZAC biscuits to a roadside “safe” — two very old refrigerators. Locals and visitors in the know then either do a bank transfer — details on the inside of the fridge — or put cash in the box for their purchases. It’s all based on an “honesty” system. The biscuits were already sold out, but we walked away with a loaf of bread … still warm … with that delicious fresh sourdough smell. We were tearing off pieces to eat even before we got back in the car.

    Our final stop of the day was at the Lighthouse at Cape Bruny … down an 11-mile, unpaved road. We walked the narrow path up to the lighthouse but skipped the tour — AUD $20pp — that would have gotten us to the top of the lighthouse. There were plenty of points from which to enjoy “free” aerial views of the scenery below us.

    While Bruny Island did not quite meet our scenic expectations due to the “green tunnels,” I’m glad we went. We saw plenty to keep us happy.

    We have one more day in Hobart. We plan to stay close since we also need to finish our prep work before getting on the road on the 26th.
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  • No Set Plans As Yet

    23 de janeiro de 2024, Austrália ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Our 2024 Southern Hemisphere summer/fall travels — winter/spring back home in Colorado — brought us Down Under ... where we disembarked our cruise in Hobart, Tasmania yesterday to begin a 3½-month overland trip around Australia.

    Our Northern Hemisphere spring/summer travels will see us at home in Colorado. We are debating taking an RV trip or doing day-outings near home while we recuperate from our grand adventure Down Under. Decision TBD.

    Our Northern Hemisphere fall/winter travels will take us to Europe as they tend to do every year. That we will spend part of the trip with family in Türkiye is a foregone conclusion. As for the rest of our time overseas? Those plans are very much TBD at this point.

    Regardless of what we decide to do between September and December, this FindPenguins trip will share the story of those travels.

    Let the planning begin!

    [TBD, by the way, means "to be determined" ... just to clarify for those not familiar with the acronym.]
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  • Hobart: Happy Hour Al Fresco

    23 de janeiro de 2024, Austrália ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Today was to have been our first day of sightseeing in the Hobart area. Although we did walk into town this afternoon, we switched a few things around and stayed home this morning. I needed some “catch-up time.”

    Our wander into town — about a 20-minute walk from the apartment — was mostly to run errands … and get some steps in. Mui wanted to check out the local R.M. Williams store. So that was our first stop.

    RMs, as the boots are referred to by those in the know, are world renowned as symbols of Australian style. Made by hand in the time-honoured tradition of cobblers since 1932, they are high quality and known for their durability and versatility. Yes, we each walked out with a pair!

    Next up was a haircut for me. My appointment at Ukiyo Hair turned out to be a relaxing treat … including a reclining massage chair while my hair was washed and my scalp received a gentle rub down.

    By the time we returned to the apartment, the sun was peeking through the overcast … just enough to warm up the evening so that we could enjoy happy hour al fresco on the deck. For me, Mui opened a bottle of Chenin Blanc that we picked up at the Woody Nook Winery during our Margaret River tour out of Geraldton. And he put a good dent in the Poesie Valpolicella, an Italian red, that Regatta’s Chief Engineer gifted us a few days ago.

    We’ll get back on schedule with our sightseeing plans tomorrow … though we might have to move a few things around since rain is in the forecast for much of the day. We’ll play it by ear.
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  • Hobart: Regatta Leaves Us Behind

    23 de janeiro de 2024, Austrália ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    Due to a strike by the pilots who escort ships in and out of the harbor, Regatta extended its stay in Hobart. Instead of leaving at midnight as planned, it sailed from its berth this morning at 6:00a. No impact on its next port of call … Port Arthur … less than 40 NM from Hobart.

    Mui was already up and enjoying a cup of coffee when Regatta sailed by the apartment we’re renting … giving Mui a great photo op.

    Fair winds and following seas to all those who are onboard.
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  • Hobart: Our Base for 4 Nights

    22 de janeiro de 2024, Austrália ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Once off Regatta, we got our bearings and headed out on foot to the Avis office to pick up our rental car. Even with luggage in tow, it was an easy enough walk.

    While Mui was completing the rental paperwork, I received a message from our AirBNB hosts that the apartment — in a quiet West Hobart neighborhood — was ready and we could check in at our leisure. Perfect. We could drop off our bags and then go to a grocery store and run a few errands.

    The apartment will make a lovely base for us to take care of chores — laundry is already well on its way to being done — and do a bit of sightseeing around Hobart before we go on the road. And if the weather warms up, we have a deck with great views … can you say happy hour al fresco?
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  • Hobart, TAS … Disembarking Regatta

    22 de janeiro de 2024, Austrália ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    New-to-us-Port #13.

    Lucky 13 marks the end of our circumnavigation of Australia … and the beginning of our overland adventure Down Under.

    By disembarking in Hobart, we are adding a few zigs … a few zags … a few jigs to our circumnavigation. Eventually, we’ll make it back to Sydney to complete the circle.

    Captain Giulio brought Regatta alongside at the Macquarie Wharf around 11:00a.

    Having already enjoyed the yummy brunch goodies in the GDR, Mui and I were in the card room as instructed by the purser’s office … waiting to complete the early-disembarkation formalities.

    Australia has strict biosecurity laws. In fact, the first announcement at every Australian port we’ve called on has been a reminder not to take any food products ashore. To permanently disembark with our luggage, first our bags had to go through a check for any contraband. We were good … the food items in our possession were all purchased in Australia.

    The biosecurity check complete, next we had a quick face-to-face meeting with an Australian Border Forces agent. Easy peasy.

    Once the formalities were completed, we were required to disembark the ship … and not allowed to return. So, we bid our friends farewell, scanned out one last time, and made our way down the gangway.
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  • Brunch at Sea

    22 de janeiro de 2024, Tasman Sea ⋅ 🌬 55 °F

    A jiggly night at sea from Burnie around the east side of the island … as predicted by Captain Giulio.

    With our arrival in Hobart scheduled for noon, this morning the culinary team put on a wonderful brunch … always a treat on Oceania ships. More so today as it was a nice farewell for us.Leia mais

  • Burnie, TAS

    21 de janeiro de 2024, Austrália ⋅ 🌬 72 °F

    New-to-us-Port #12.

    A smooth overnight sailing across the Bass Strait brought us to Tasmania, an island state of Australia. Our port of call today … Burnie, on the north coast of the island.

    Though downtown Burnie is walking distance to where Regatta docked, walking inside the commercial port is prohibited. So, we hopped on the shuttle provided by the Port Authority to get into the town center.

    There isn’t much to see and do in Burnie. Add the fact that it was Sunday and … well, you get the idea … the town was pretty much dead. No matter. We made the best of the situation.

    With a walking map to guide us, we headed off for a stroll on the foreshore path, then walked up through Burnie Park to Oldaker Falls. I’d seen some impressive photos of the falls, but today they were just a mere trickle. I guess the best time to see them is after a good rain.

    The volunteer with whom we spoke at the shuttle drop off had recommended the Secret Buddha for a coffee break … a short ways up from the falls. The place was hopping, and all of the outdoor tables were reserved. But once we promised that we’d be done and gone by 11:00a, we were given our pick of the available tables on the patio. A pot of Earl Grey tea and a scone with jam and cream for me; a double-shot latte and pancakes served with ice cream for Mui. His was definitely the better choice as the scone was more like a bread roll than a scone … which, as I now understand it, is called a rock cake in Australia. Nonetheless, it was a nice break.

    Google wanted to route us uphill to get back to town to visit the Burnie Regional Museum. Having already climbed up from the foreshore to the falls, we nixed that idea and routed ourselves down through Burnie Park, choosing the path on the opposite side this time. Once we were back on the foreshore, it was just a matter of retracing our steps to find the museum on Little Alexander Street.

    The museum is set up to represent Federation Street as it would have looked around the beginning of the 20th century. The volunteer who greeted us explained “… the street is dark because it’s after 6:00p and the shopkeepers and the townspeople are all at home.” We laughed and said not much had obviously changed in the time since.

    The museum was opened in 1971 by a Peter Mercer who carefully researched and planned everything. The details and objects are all authentic to the Federation period … the buildings are constructed in the architectural styles common in Burnie in the late 19th century. Even the paint colours and sign-writing styles are those that would have been used during that period. It was a fun place to while away a bit of time.

    From the museum, we set off to find Princes Street … recommended by the volunteer at the museum as a place to see Federation-period houses. A lovely walk in a neighborhood with well-maintained, beautiful homes.

    Our sightseeing completed, we checked out a few logistics for when we return here at the end of our two-week driving trip in Tasmania. Namely, we were looking for the Ikon Hotel … where we will be staying … and wanted to find the post office most convenient to the hotel as we expect to ship a box or two back home before we leave Tasmania for the Australian mainland. Check and check.

    A quiet afternoon on the ship after our recent run of ports of call was the perfect way to wrap up our day in Burnie.

    We set sail at 4:00p to Captain Giulio’s warning that he expects strong winds and six-foot swells once we turn the corner around the east end of Tasmania and begin heading south.

    Indeed, it’s getting on towards midnight now and there is a noticeable rolling to the ship’s motion on the ocean. We’ll be rocked to sleep tonight!
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  • Melbourne: State Library Victoria

    20 de janeiro de 2024, Austrália ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    Around noon, we took a break from wandering the Melbourne Museum and had lunch in the museum’s table-service restaurant … Mercury … delicious meat pie and salmon & dill cake.

    Thus energized, we were ready to resume our exploration. We were a little “museumed out” however. So, we decided to hop on the tram and go to the library instead. Not any old library, mind you.

    The State Library Victoria was established in 1854 as the Melbourne Public Library. As such, it is Australia's oldest public library and one of the first free libraries in the world. According to 2023 statistics, it also claims to be the third busiest library globally.

    Located in the same spot in the CBD since it was founded, the library has a large and varied collection … over five million items, which in addition to books includes manuscripts, paintings, maps, photographs and newspapers.

    We went in to see the much vaunted La Trobe Reading Room, which was initially occupied by the Great Hall and Rotunda. Octagonal in shape and a lofty six storeys high, the room is topped by a glass dome. It is described as a “prime example of Edwardian splendour, whose design was inspired by the British Museum in London and Washington’s Library of Congress.”

    After seeing the room from the ground level, we took the elevator up to the 6th floor balcony for an amazing top-down view. All I can say is that they don’t build libraries like this anymore.

    Our visit extended to a couple of exhibits at the library, including the one in the Cowen Gallery where some of the priceless art from the library’s collection is on display.

    From the library, we made our way to Collins Street, picked up some cash from an ATM, and then hopped on tram 109 back to the port … making sure to tap on with our MyKi cards after we left the free-zone.

    We are now leaving mainland Australia behind and heading to Tasmania. That means that our time on Regatta is quickly drawing to a close. But first … Burnie.
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  • Melbourne: Melbourne Museum

    20 de janeiro de 2024, Austrália ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    Getting off tram 109 at the Town Hall station, we walked to the Visitor Centie.. r..

    First order of business was getting a couple of MyKi cards for the ride back to the port. After verifying our plan to stay within the free-zone until we were ready to return to the ship, the woman at the VC sold us our cards, topped them off with the appropriate fare amount, and cautioned us not to tap on until we left the free-zone.

    Next, with a map in hand, we hopped on another free-zone train and headed to the Melbourne Museum … walking through the Carlton Gardens and passing by the Royal Exhibition Building.

    The museum is very extensive with varied exhibits. There was no way we could cover the entire museum, so we decided to focus on the exhibits telling the stories of the Aboriginal people.

    A wonderful museum!
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  • Welcome to Melbourne, VIC

    20 de janeiro de 2024, Austrália ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    New-to-us-Port #11.

    Traveling a mere 28 NM from Phillip Island overnight, we are now in Melbourne … the coastal capital of the State of Victoria.

    With no shuttle from the port, the easiest way to get into the CBD is to take Tram 109. So, that’s what we are doing.

    Melbourne requires the MyKi card to ride public transportation. However, there was a really long line to buy cards at the one kiosk at the port station … the queue made all the longer by a foursome who were having a difficult time figuring it all out. The tram conductor took in the scene and waved a bunch of us on to the next departure … free of charge.

    The card is not necessary in the free zone within the CBD, but we will each need a card to return to the port at the end of the day.

    We’ll figure it out when we get to the Visitor Center … our planned first stop.
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  • Phillip Island: Tour Local

    19 de janeiro de 2024, Austrália ⋅ 🌬 64 °F

    Having wandered around Cowes, at 2:00p we returned to the shuttle drop off point where Ray, from Tour Local, was waiting to pick us up for our afternoon and evening adventure.

    Our small group tour set off to explore Phillip Island … but first, we crossed over to San Remo for a short stroll along the waterfront. Then, as promised in the tour description, we continued on to explore some of the places only the locals visit … as well as a few popular attractions visited by everyone.

    In addition to stops at surf beaches for photo ops, our tour took in two spots operated under the auspices of Phillip Island Nature Parks … both dedicated to conservation of species. Between those two sites, which I will write about below, we stopped at the Phillip Island Winery for a cellar door tasting and dinner. We had a marquee dedicated to our group, which was nice as it gave us a more private setting. This tasting was accompanied by food … and plenty of it … from a charcuterie board, to a salad, to a variety of pizzas. All served family style. We were stuffed by the time we left.

    After dinner, Ray took us on a scenic drive of the Nobbies, where not only did we see amazing scenery from an overlook, but we saw hundreds of wallabies browsing in the fields and a whole lot of grey geese (aka Cape Barren Geese) … all free roaming and not paying even the slightest attention to us. At the Nobbies, we had a brief opportunity to stroll the boardwalk as we awaited the sunset. No colors today … but we did get to have sparkling wine anyway to celebrate a great day of touring.

    OK … onto the conservation facilities I mentioned.

    The first was the Koala Conservation Reserve. Here we followed a path through Australian bushland to elevated boardwalks that take visitors to eucalyptus groves where koalas sleep, eat, and sleep some more … high in the trees. Surprisingly — for koalas — there were a couple of younger ones that were rather active, climbing up and down trees. That the koalas in the reserve are free-ranging, coming and going as they please, made the experience all the better.

    The second Phillips Island Nature Parks facility we visited was the Penguin Parade ... with the monies raised from the ticket sales going towards conservation and research. It was definitely the highlight of our day.

    The place is very much a tourist attraction. But it is also very carefully operated so as not to impact the Little Blue Penguins that are protected by the reserve established in 1955. Some of the safety measures are … terraced viewing stands that control access to the beach where the penguins come ashore at nightfall after a day of foraging at sea … special infrared lights to allow viewing of the penguins without impacting their activities … a photography ban (QR code available to download photos instead). Thanks to these measures, and a huge buy-back program in which the government purchased all the homes built in the area, the penguin population that was once decimated to only 300 individuals has rebounded to over 30,000.

    We arrived at the site around 8:00p, an hour before the penguins were expected to come ashore. I had upgraded our experience to Penguins Plus, which meant that we were at the stands closest to the beach … next to the “Penguin Highway” — the dirt path the little critters have naturally created as they travel to/from the sea and their burrows.

    Although the stand was already filling up when we walked down from the visitor center, we found seats in the very front row … with a perfect view of the “alley” through which the rafts of penguin waddle up from the beach on their short legs. It was really thrilling to see the cute penguins suddenly appear from behind the vegetation between the beach and the stands. Those with chicks waiting to be fed, kept going towards the “highway” … some deviating right up into the hills.

    In front of us was a wide area of beach sand where some of the penguins stopped to groom themselves, allowing us time for a closer look. The more curious younger penguins stayed in the open area awhile, giving us the impression that they were checking out the visitors standing inside the underground viewing platform below us. (I opted out of that upgrade as I had read that it was quite crowded and claustrophobic in there.)

    The penguins came up in “waves” of rafts. Because it is molting season, their numbers were smaller … maybe 10 to 30 at a time. I don’t know how many penguins came ashore tonight, but there were 1,382 of them returning from foraging last night.

    After 20 minutes or so, we left our seats to slowly wander back to the visitor center and meet up with our group. Along the way, we stopped to watch the penguins that were waddling up the “highway” in ones and twos … heading up to their burrows to feed their chicks. In a few instances, the impatient chicks had already made their way down to greet their parents … running after them, begging to be fed. It was funny, because still in their fluffy coats, they seemed much bigger than their parents.

    With the last tender back to the ship scheduled at 11:00p, we had set a meeting time for the wheels of the midi-bus to be rolling at exactly 10:00p. We wanted to beat the tour buses back to the tender pier. And we did. Our tender was just pulling away from the pier at 10:30p when the first of the five or six busloads of ship’s tours arrived at the pier.

    A great day on Phillips Island … lots of fun. I’m glad we were able to tender ashore.
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  • Phillip Island: Cowes … Murals & More

    19 de janeiro de 2024, Austrália ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    The shuttle that picked us up from the tender pier in Rhyll, dropped us off in Cowes, the largest city on Phillip Island … and a popular vacation spot for many Melburnians.

    We had plenty of time to spare before our 2:00p tour … plenty of time to explore Cowes. We started out with a coffee break at the Phillip Island Bakery … then a stroll down to the beach and a wander around town in search of murals … followed by lunch at The Corner.

    Before we knew it, the time had come to meet our Tour Local group to explore the rest of the island … and see some wildlife 🤞🏻
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  • Welcome to Rhyll, Phillip Island (VIC)

    19 de janeiro de 2024, Austrália ⋅ 🌬 61 °F

    New-to-us-Port #10.

    We made it!

    After a rough night at sea from Portland, we were able to tender to Rhyll … a slow 45-minute ride.

    We’ll be spending part of the day in Cowes … and then join a private tour this afternoon to explore the island … and hopefully see some 🐨 and 🐧Leia mais

  • Portland: A-wanderin’ in the Afternoon

    18 de janeiro de 2024, Austrália ⋅ 🌬 63 °F

    With Regatta scheduled to depart at 8:30p tonight, we had plenty of time to continue exploring Portland after lunch.

    For our afternoon meanderings, we decided to head to the Portland Lighthouse. Since our route took us by the All Saints Catholic Church, we popped in to take a look at the stained glass windows … charmed particularly by the one installed by the parishioners when Mary MacKillop was beatified in 1995. The window depicts her teaching children … as she did in real life when she lived in Portland with her family.

    From the church, we crossed over to the cliff top trail … part of the Great South West Walk, which is a bush walking trail that is about 155 miles long. We only did a couple of those miles! The cliff top views of the beaches below were beautiful and kept us going not just to the Portland Lighthouse, but to the WWII Museum and Lookout Tower, which is housed in an old water tower. Along the way, a local pointed us to a tree where we saw another koala. Three koalas on the same day. How lucky are we?

    At the WWII Museum, we skipped going inside. Instead, we took the Anderson Point Steps down to the beach, and from there we followed the path to Nuns Beach at the jetty … via Whaler’s Point. Thanks to the breakwater placed between the waves crashing ashore and the trail along the base of the cliff, we managed not to get wet. I can see why they have gates to lock down the trail when the weather is particularly bad.

    It was almost 4:00p when we returned to the ship. Mui was ready for a nap. Not me. Slightly chilled by the wind, afternoon tea in Horizons was beckoning me. A good time and place to write up the footprints for today.

    With Regatta departing on time, we are now at sea … rocking and pitching in some heavy swells. When we checked the weather earlier, Mui and I saw a gale warning posted for the island where we will be tendering tomorrow. So far, however, Captain Giulio expects that we will be able to go ashore as planned. 🤞🏻
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  • Portland: A-wanderin’ in the Morning

    18 de janeiro de 2024, Austrália ⋅ 🌬 61 °F

    Woke up to overcast skies; rain spittin’; wind howlin’ … the high temp was forecasted to be in the low-60F range. Alrighty then … let’s pull out the cool weather layers we brought with us and go for a wander.

    Once again, we skipped the shuttle and walked the ½-mile from the ship to the top of the Lee Breakwater. And kept going. A quick detour to the Visitor Center and we had a walking tour map to guide us around Portland.

    Following the foreshore, we stopped at the Old Town Hall and went in to visit the small — tiny would be a better description — museum. Then, past the historic courthouse — dating back to 1845 … still in use today — to the Botanical Gardens. With plenty of colorful flowers in bloom, it was a delight to wander the paths as we made our way to a trail that follows the canal to Fawthrop Lagoon. The wind was blowing unchecked in the wetlands, so we skipped that part of the walking tour and turned inland.

    As we made our way back towards the CBD, we stopped at the Powerhouse, which provided electricity to Portland from the 1930s until 1959. Today, the building is used as a motor and car museum, with some fun vehicles … including cable tram cars similar to the ones that run along the foreshore today.

    It was near the museum that we saw our first koalas in the wild … a mom with her baby … napping in the “v” of a couple of branches. We’ve seen koalas before. Even held one at the Lone Pine Sanctuary in Brisbane when we went there in 2017. But nothing beats a chance encounter with wildlife.

    By the time we tore ourselves away from the koalas, it was past noon. Time to get some lunch. But when we passed by the Portland Art Center, we could not resist going in. Turns out that the place is more like a community center where adults and kids can paint, sketch, and do crafts. In one of the rooms was a “painting” on the wall … with the words, “Draw on me!” So, Mui did just that. After staring at it for a while, a yellow ball inspired him to paint the Colorado state flag on the t-shirt of one of the male figures someone else had sketched.

    Once we got to the CBD, Mui asked Google for nearby restaurants. We didn’t have to go far. Right behind us was the Clock by the Bay, a restaurant housed in the Old Post Office, which dates back to 1882. The food was delicious — the arancini crisp; the beef stroganoff pie filled with tender beef; the pearl couscous salad tasty and different. We washed it all down with homemade lemon squash … yummy!

    Energized by our meal, we decided to wander around a bit more. But I’ll leave that for the next footprint …
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  • Portland, VIC

    17 de janeiro de 2024, Austrália ⋅ 🌬 61 °F

    New-to-us-Port #9 … with an overnight.

    A quiet day at sea. Yes, as Captain Giulio predicted, the wind picked up in the afternoon. Whitecaps edged the tips of the swells. But the motion of the ocean seemed less. The sun broke through the overcast to make it all seem more cheery somehow.

    Around 7:00p, Regatta arrived at its berth on Portland’s Lee Breakwater … about a 15-20 minute walk from town. It wasn’t until 7:30p that the six passengers waiting near the gangway — us being two of them — were cleared to go ashore. Where was everyone else? Dining at one of the venues on the ship would be my guess.

    As we were leaving, we were told that there would be shuttles running into town … until 9:00p. We wanted to stretch our legs — and we were on a tight schedule — so we didn’t wait for the vans to show up.

    Why a tight schedule when the ship will be here overnight? There was only one restaurant we found on the internet that was open … a pub at the Gordon Hotel … and the kitchen there closed at 8:30p! Yes, as seems to be common everywhere we’ve been in Australia thus far — with the exception of Sydney — Portland rolls up the sidewalks soon after the workday ends.

    Anyway, we made it to the pub in time. Ordered fish and chips for dinner … and a Great Northern Crisp beer to wash it all down.

    Then we retraced our steps back to the ship. Really, there was nowhere else to go. Might as well take advantage of the empty launderette … our last load before we disembark in Hobart on the 22nd. Can’t believe we have to start thinking about packing already!

    We’ll explore Portland properly tomorrow.
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  • Itinerary Chg #5: Kangaroo Island Canc’d

    17 de janeiro de 2024, Indian Ocean ⋅ 🌬 57 °F

    I must have had a premonition last night when I crossed my fingers for today’s tender port — Kangaroo Island — as it was canceled at some point overnight.

    In the wee hours of this morning I woke up to see ocean spray flying by our window. The ship seemed to be traveling at speed. A speed that I felt was much higher than necessary to reach Kangaroo Island … a mere 60 NM or so from Adelaide. The thought that we must be bypassing KI passed through my mind. But I dismissed it and snuggled back under the comforter. Perhaps if I had turned on the light, I would have seen the letter that was slipped in under the door … confirming my thinking.

    The letter stated the reason for the cancelation as being weather-related. Captain Giulio expanded on that in an announcement around 8:30a. The culprit is a cyclonic system bearing down on the region. We’re attempting to outrun the storm by canceling KI so that we have a better chance of keeping the rest of the itinerary intact 🤞🏻. If the current conditions are anything to go by, we may well be succeeding.

    That said, the captain did say that things will more than likely change later today. He expects the winds to grow stronger, the sea state to increase from the current 8-foot swells we’re experiencing, and the temps to drop. No surprise — especially with the latter — as there is nothing to stop the cold winds coming up from Antarctica to our south.

    Thus, we have a day at sea today and will arrive in Portland, Victoria tonight around 7:00p for an overnight stay and then pick up our regular schedule 🤞🏻

    The good news is that because we are going to return to KI for an extended stay during our overland, we had no plans to get up at o’dark thirty for what was to have been a scheduled 7:00a arrival today. In fact, having gotten to bed after midnight, we woke up later than usual to start our day.

    By the way, since we skipped KI, the 30-minute time change we would have made tonight happened automatically this morning, catching everyone unawares. No matter. Easier on the body to lose time during the day instead of overnight.
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  • Adelaide, SA: AGSA

    16 de janeiro de 2024, Austrália ⋅ ☀️ 91 °F

    New-to-us-Port #8

    There was a price to pay for the stormy seas we crossed to get to Adelaide, the capital of South Australia. Our arrival was delayed by three hours! Oh well.

    No shuttle provided here. So, as soon as the ship was cleared, we walked the short distance to the Outer Harbor Railway Station … the easiest way to get into the city … tickets purchased and validated on the train. The trains run every 30 minutes or so. Luck was with us, however. A minute-or-two after we got to the station at 12:30p, the train arrived at the platform. By 1:15p, we were in the CBD.

    First up was a visit to the Apple Store at Rundle Mall. Then, we had to make a decision. We had just enough time to visit one museum before closing time. Should we visit the South Australia Museum or the Art Gallery of South Australia (AGSA)? We settled on the latter, leaving the other one for when we return to Adelaide in early April.

    AGSA is described as having “… one of the largest art museum collections in Australia, comprising almost 47,000 works of art spanning 2000 years.” It is definitely one of Australia’s “WOW” museums. And to think … no admission … donations gratefully accepted.

    After the museum, we went to Borsa Cucina, an Italian restaurant, for dinner … delicious food … good wine. Then, wanting to take advantage of the remaining daylight hours, we walked to the only place that was shown as open in the CBD … the Botanic Gardens. Except that all we could do there was take a stroll on the public paths … all of the buildings were closed. So, stroll we did for a bit before making our way back to the Adelaide Railway Station for the train ride back to Regatta.

    We have just about 60 NM to go to our next destination … that means a late sailaway at 11:00p! The wind has picked up and it has grown quite chilly. Fingers crossed for tomorrow’s tender port.

    P.S. I processed more photos for this footprint, but for some reason it is not letting me add them. That’s internet at sea for you! C’est la vie!
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  • Cruising the GAB on Mui’s B’day

    15 de janeiro de 2024, Indian Ocean ⋅ 🌬 64 °F

    Day 2 of 2 days at sea … GAB being the Great Australian Bight.

    Captain Giulio’s expectation that conditions would improve by this morning was for naught. We had another rough night of sailing that continued well into the day. Not bothered by the motion of the ocean, but the pitching has been noticeable … no matter where one is on the ship.

    Today’s noon report by the Captain was similar to yesterday … almost verbatim. He gave the swells as 12-14 feet … with 30-knot winds. Outside decks were once again closed.

    Late in the day, things seemed to calm down a bit. But at this stage, that won’t make much of a difference to our now-delayed arrival into Adelaide tomorrow. How late will we be docking? That is still TBD. Captain Giulio mentioned between 11:00a and noon earlier today. But … well, we shall see how it all plays out when we get there, won’t we?

    For Mui’s birthday dinner we went up to the Polo Grill tonight. Our friend Sasa, who has been promoted to Food and Beverage Manager since sailing with him on Insignia last year, joined us for dinner … and to help Mui blow out the virtual candles on his birthday cake. How many? Well, there is a 6 and an 8 involved. You put them in the right order 🤣
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  • Cruising the Great Australian Bight

    14 de janeiro de 2024, Indian Ocean ⋅ 🌬 63 °F

    Day 1 of 2 days at sea.

    And the jiggling continues! Pitching more so than rolling.

    Most definitely a rough night. It took me awhile to fall into a deep sleep since the ship was shuddering rather frequently as it plowed head-on into the swells.

    In his noon report today, Captain Giulio reported the swells at about 13 feet. That — to us — seemed like an improvement over last night when the surf and sea spray were flying high past our cabin window. My estimate for last night’s swells would be in the 15- to 20-foot range.

    I spent the day going through the pile of paperwork that had built up during our recent run of ports. Mui worked a bit on the RV road trip. We have decided not to drive to Perth via Albany, so we’re shifting our route . If the math is correct, we’ll be saving a bundle of miles with this new route. That’s a good thing!

    Turns out that there are 582 Oceania Club members on this segment. Too many to fit into the Regatta Lounge. So, tonight was the first of the two loyalty parties they will be having for this cruise. We were in attendance. Afterwards, we went to Toscana to wrap up our evening with a delicious Italian meal.

    Captain Giulio is still expecting an improvement in the weather for tomorrow 🤞🏻
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