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South American Adventure
  • Helen Buchanan

South American Adventure

A 19-day adventure by Helen Read more
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  • Trip start
    February 12, 2024
    Helen BuchananSouth American AdventureTraveler
    12

    Heathrow , setting off

    February 12, 2024 in England ⋅ 🌙 6 °C

    Getting ready to go . New BA seat configuration which is exciting and new seat belts like car ones . Next stop Buenos Aries via Rio de Janiero

  • Helen BuchananSouth American AdventureTraveler
    1

    Day 1 Buenos Aires

    February 13, 2024 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Long flight but managed some sleep .Sat on the ground in Rio for 2 hours whilst they cleaned and loaded the plane with new passengers . Saw some great views of Rio as we left and saw Christ the Redeemer statue and Copacobana beach .
    Nice hotel in centre of Buenos Aires , in the Recoleta area . Went to see a nice bookshop in a converted theatre ( upmarket Waterstones) and then walked around and saw a few sights . Converted some dollars into Argentinian pesos (as can’t get them outside of the country ) only converted 500$ and ended up with 5 big stacks of notes , felt quite bizarre as if we had robbed a bank , had to put them back in our safe !
    Tonight had to have the obligatory cocktail and as in South American went for a Cuba Libra !    Read more

  • Helen BuchananSouth American AdventureTraveler

    Day 2 Buenos Aires

    February 14, 2024 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    This morning with a guide and a driver we toured the city . First we went to Recoleta Cemetery and saw the tomb where Eva Peron is buried . We also saw many unusual and grand tombs and our guide arranged for us to go inside the grandest - very unusual. 27 presidents are buried here.
    We then went to Plaza De Mayo and saw the famous pink government building where Eva gave her last speech from the balcony and also to the cathedral .
    We then went to San Telemo and La Boca both very different areas and you would not go to either after dark! But the colourful buildings in la Boca were good to see . We then went to a trendy waterfront area , said goodbye to our guide , had lunch and made our way back to the hotel via Plaza de mayo again . We had an interesting discussion with our guide about Las Malvinas ( democracy would not have come to Argentina if they had won the war as the dictatorship of Galtieri would have flourished). We have also heard a lot about Lionel Messi they adore him !
    A few hours by the hotel pool .
    To end the day we went to tango show at a glamorous restaurant , ate massive steaks ! Ended a bit late but we have to get used to this as staying up late seems the Argentinian way !    Read more

  • Helen BuchananSouth American AdventureTraveler
    1

    Buenos Aires Day 3

    February 15, 2024 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Today was a slower start to the day following our late night . We went to the Japanese garden and then onto the Rose garden . Weather has heated up so nice to have some shade . Then headed up to an area called Serrano which is known for street art and lively atmosphere. It was quiet as students still on their summer break .
    This afternoon we went back to Plaza de Mayo as it was the weekly protest by mothers of the lost children . Essentially mothers who had their children forcibly adopted under Galtieri as they had the wrong political views . Very few of these children have been found and some who have also join the protest. The mothers ( some of whom are in their nineties peacefully protest every Thursday. ) Quick look at shops but nothing of note . Ubers ridiculously cheap . Finished the day with a treat at the Crystal Bar on the 32nd floor of the Alvear icon hotel - great views , cocktails and tapas . Saw the sun set    Read more

  • Helen BuchananSouth American AdventureTraveler

    Day 4 El Calafate

    February 16, 2024 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Today we flew 2000 miles south into Patagonia. Interesting flight which included dogs on owners knees.
    El calafate looks like a cross between an Austrian ski resort and a Canadian Rockies town . Hotel from the outside looks like a ski chalet but inside I think more Torquay and Basil Fawlty.
    Went for a nice walk down to the nature reserve on the lake but not get all around so will go back . Great bird watching .
    This evening we had a nice meal and shared a grilled lamb dish .Far too much meat - impossible here to go veggie ! Hotel room quite basic .    Read more

  • Helen BuchananSouth American AdventureTraveler

    Day 5 Perito Moreno Glacier

    February 17, 2024 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Today was a wow day!
    We were collected and drove an hour across the Patagonian Steppes. Surprisingly very arid . We saw condors flying ( impossible to photograph) and also Rhea ( like a small ostrich) . We also saw some gauchos on horseback who happened to move their sheep as we were driving by.
    The highlight was the glacier . First we went on an hours boat trip . The walls of the glacier are about 60 M high above the water line and 160 M below . It is sadly receding. We saw some caving whilst we were there .
    We then did some trails on the hill in front of it which gave us some different stunning views . Managed to find a restaurant with veggie options tonight!    Read more

  • Helen BuchananSouth American AdventureTraveler

    Day 6 El Calafete

    February 18, 2024 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Bad nights sleep as most of the town were partying and honking their car horns outside our hotel window until past 2 a.m.
    We walked down to the nature reserve where it was peaceful , sunny and windy . We were delighted to see flamingos today - lovely to see them swimming and flying as well as just standing. Photos don’t do it justice . Scenery across Lake Argentario is beautiful , again photos just don’t do it justice.
    We then headed out of town on a free bus to the Glacier museum. Very interesting and showed not only how glaciers are formed and move forward but also how they are sadly shrinking!
    We finished the afternoon with both having a well needed massage .
    Actually had Patagonian trout for supper !    Read more

  • Helen BuchananSouth American AdventureTraveler

    Torres del Paines

    February 19, 2024 in Chile ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    Long drive of 4 hours over an expansive moor land to reach the Chile border when the scenery became more mountainous. Heavy rain for part of the journey .
    We then arrived at our magical hotel - there are not words to describe it . It’s called Tierra Patagonia. It is built into the countryside by a top Chilean architect. Next to a lake and completely eco . The view from our room is magical, across the lake to the mountains .
    This afternoon we went on a hike to the green lake and saw lots of small llama and ostrich . To top it all we saw a Magellan hooded owl . The food is sublime and every need we have is met - heaven    Read more

  • Helen BuchananSouth American AdventureTraveler
    1
    1

    Torres del Paines

    February 20, 2024 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    What a day . First we did a 5km hike to see a hanging glacier , water fall and the Los Cuelos mountains. It was incredibly windy but sunny . The scenery was a double wow! On the way there passed a lake with lots more flamingos - so delightful to see
    After a relaxing 2 hour break with lunch we became gauchos for the afternoon. Had a great horse back ride ( slightly sore bottom at the end!) . Saw again great scenery .
    This morning the view from our room was incredible. We saw a fox walk by but too quick to photograph.
    The hotel is all made of wood and beautifully blends into the landscape .    Read more

  • Helen BuchananSouth American AdventureTraveler
    111

    Torres del Paine

    February 21, 2024 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    What a day !!
    Set off , lots of flamingos ( I was in heaven )
    Then a PUMA !
    Then a beautiful 7 k hike with wall painting by the indigenous people ( who were irradicated by genocide after Darwin discovered them) .
    The saw an armadillo ( apparently rarer than a puma ) . After a relaxing lunch another 5k hike , birds and scenery . Just love Patagonia.
    Met some beautiful people in our groups and had a fun dinner and sad to say goodbye. This has been such a special experience.    Read more

  • Helen BuchananSouth American AdventureTraveler
    11

    Punta Arenas

    February 22, 2024 in Chile ⋅ 🌬 8 °C

    It was sad this morning to leave Tierra Patagonia - made beautiful memories there and met such lovely people . As we were heading down the long driveway saw a family of young foxes .
    We had a 4.5 hour drive down to Punta Arenas . The scenery was wide open plains that just went on for ever . Not sure what word to use to describe it as vast seems inadequate . We saw some sheep , gunacos ( the llamas that are all over this area) and were lucky a few times to see condors flying overhead but they are so hard to photograph.
    ( the blurred photo is a condor) .Stopped at a quirky little cafe literally in the middle of no where for a comfort break .
    Punta Arenas itself is not really that photogenic and it’s bloomin chilly ( here in Chile🤣) with a fierce breeze blowing in from Antarctic . The sea front has a statue of Ernest Shackleton pointing south to the Antarctic. Saw lots of cormorants on the sea shore . Verity unhappy as our fellow travelling companions were off on a cruise to Antarctica- but that’s not on our itinerary!
    Hotel is pretty ordinary with no view other than a parking lot from our window . We are both shattered from the hiking of the last 3 days so early night as early start for next stop in our adventure .    Read more

  • Helen BuchananSouth American AdventureTraveler
    2

    Puerto Varas

    February 23, 2024 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Early start and took a 2 hour Latam flight north to Puerto Montt. Bit confusing at check in with trying to print our luggage labels and do it correctly .
    Puerto Varas is in the Chilean Lake District . Does remind me a bit of Windermere, but with sunshine and two volcanos across the lake . One was last active in 2015 but they are both classed as active .
    Town has a slight German feel also , as a lot of Germans have settled here over the past century.
    Hotel is nice with stunning views - we are in the presidential suite . We had to wait for our room , then they decided they hadn’t got what we had booked so upgraded us . Very nice but don’t really need a dining room that seats 8 or a kitchen . But nice jacuzzi bath .
    We had a walk around the little town , lots of craft markets . The gardens and flowers are very English with roses , bedding plants and agapanthus. So quite a bizarre little place .    Read more

  • Helen BuchananSouth American AdventureTraveler

    Puerto Varas

    February 24, 2024 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Had a lie in this morning, first in two weeks . We had a leisurely stroll along the lakeside in both directions. It was cloudy and chilly this morning and you couldn’t see the volcano at all . But as day progressed sky cleared and sun out .
    We had a look at a few old buildings , a Lutheran church and a large Catholic Church also built in a very Germanic manner . Lots of flowers out too. We both had massages this afternoon which was relaxing .    Read more

  • Helen BuchananSouth American AdventureTraveler

    Bariloche

    February 25, 2024 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    What a day . 3 coach journeys and 3 boat trips . Crossed a border and traversed the Andes . 11 hours travelling.
    The scenery has been stunning . The lakes are so blue and what is amazing is no people live on these lakes . As is so typical of Patagonia , hundreds of miles of expansive scenery but different to what we have seen before . Think very unpopulated Italian lakes that go on for ever . On the way we stopped off at a few different waterfalls and saw great views of the volcano . We also saw the highest mountain ( Mont Tronador) in the area with its hanging glaciers .
    We were met off our catamaran ( by a very handsome Argentinian guide) and taken to our next hotel in Bariloche , Argentina.
    And lo and behold another stunning hotel with a stunning lake view . This hotel is famous for its art , lots of sculptures in the grounds and beautiful paintings in all the rooms.    Read more

  • Helen BuchananSouth American AdventureTraveler
    1

    Bariloche

    February 26, 2024 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    This morning we were picked up by our guide Joaquin and our driver Nicholas . We went on a circular drive through wooded glades and stopping at different vantage points . We did a short nature walk and it was interesting to understand how the animals and fauna here differs from parts of Patagonia further south where we have been . A red fox came out into the road and walked by our vehicle. The last part of the morning we went up in a chair lift and saw completely panoramic views of the whole area - just stunning . Saw the mountain we saw yesterday from a different angle .Saw the Llau Llau hotel built in the 1940s - it’s 5* and the first hotel ever in this area .
    We also learnt how Argentina produce their own gas and oil . Average house in winter here ( it’s a ski resort in winter) costs about £2/ month to heat and petrol here 60p / litre . The land all around here is national park with hiking trails but big swathes of it are forbidden to be accessed to protect nature .
    We got dropped off in the town of Bariloche and had a little mooch around the main square and streets and the lake front and then got a taxi back to the hotel which is about 5 miles out . Saw a lovely group of ibis .
    Spent afternoon around the hotel pool ( heated very nicely) watching the windsurfers on the lake - did contemplate a lake swim but very cold!
    Had a lovely cocktail looking at the view . Then went off to a nice restaurant for a steak but it was closed ☹️. So ended up in a Patagonian brewery and a certain person was not happy with the quality of the burgers    Read more

  • Helen BuchananSouth American AdventureTraveler

    Igauzu Falls

    February 27, 2024 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Another long day !
    Headed off on our first flight from Bariloche to Buenos Aires . Traveled over again vast swathes of emptiness , with lakes and desert and the Andes Mountains in far background .
    90 minute swap of planes and then on to Iguazu for another 2 hour flight . Verity and I had to sit separately but I had a nice chat to an Amish family from Ohio - it so nice to meet different people when travelling.
    On arrival at Iguazu airport I was relieved to see our luggage had also made it - my nightmare when doing connections!
    We then met Fernando our Brazilian guide and got taken to our lovely hotel the Gran Melia , overlooking the falls . Our room looks right out over them and even thought it was getting dark we could still see them . We have been warned to keep our windows locked at all times because of the monkeys who are adept at opening windows and apparently take a fancy to guests belongings!
    Meal tonight a bit disappointing .    Read more

  • Helen BuchananSouth American AdventureTraveler

    Iguazu Falls

    February 28, 2024 in Brazil ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Spectacular day . Collected early by Fernando and our driver Anderson and taken into Brazil . We then did the walkway all the way down to that side of the falls looking towards Argentina. We got very damp at the bottom but that was very welcome as 35 degrees and high humidity . Drank 3 litres during the day . I have taken so many photos could have a falls overdose ! I don’t think they do it justice .
    We then drove back to Argentina ( the guys have special dispensation to take tourists back and forwards ) to see the falls looking across towards Brazil . Basically the falls are a big arc , made up of 22 different falls but all the same river . So glad we saw them from both sides as it gives you the full perspective. The Brazilian side is packed with people but the Argentinian side less so .
    We saw lots of wildlife during the day too , a family of coatis ( a bit like a raccoon) capuchin monkeys , exceeding large catfish and some beautiful butterflies. Had an hour or so by the lovely pool to relax as pretty tired .
    This evening had monkeys on our balcony but not great photos as mosquitoe screen . We finished off the day with cocktails on the roof in the middle of a big dramatic thunderstorm.    Read more

  • Helen BuchananSouth American AdventureTraveler

    Sao Paulo

    February 29, 2024 in Brazil ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Homeward bound . Early start with Fernando and Anderson and back over the border to Brazil. Hour and half flight to SaoPaulo . Flight very rocky and a little unsettling- I had no life vest under seat and part of the internal coving of plane fell down on take off . Quite amusing to see three stewards all trying to fix it up and in the end decided to use sticky labels .
    Then had to negotiate changing terminals with our luggage but successful checked in and enjoyed a glass of bubbly in a very nice lounge .
    Interesting countryside we flew over , quite a lot of agriculture.
    Fernando sent us photo of us all .    Read more

    Trip end
    March 1, 2024
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