• Trish Bulling
  • Neil Bulling

Big Retirement OE

Exploring Great Britain, Ireland, France, Italy, Turkey, Greece & Cyprus Read more
  • Istanbul

    Jul 25–27 in Turkey ⋅ 🌬 33 °C

    Our flight was held up on the tarmac for 45mins due to bad weather on our flight course but didn’t really matter to us as we had nothing we had to be in Istanbul for. We flew over Istanbul and kept flying, I did wonder what was going on but the new international airport is situated 48 min away, by taxi, to the old city, where our hotel is located. The Istanbul Airport was massive, the travelators were handy to get around a bit quicker.
    Our hotel is on the waterfront which is lovely as it is hot, we have not seen one person swimming so I presume it is not encouraged around the main part of town. Our restaurant is located on the top of the building with a lot of shade sails, a very pretty area with a sea breeze.
    We only have one day in Istanbul so our sightseeing was limited, we got on the Hop on Hop off bus, it gave us an overview of the city and the two bridges that go over the Bosphorus. I had to do a geography lesson on Google maps as to exactly where Istanbul is related to other countries. The Bosphorus is a narrow inlet between the Black Sea and the Sea of Marmara. It is a main shipping route for Istanbul. We had a couple from Americans sit beside us and it turned out they are going on the same cruise as us tomorrow, what are the odds. I was very keen to visit the Grand Bazaar but they said it was pretty much the same shop repeated over and over plus very hot and humid in there so we gave that a miss.

    The temperature kept climbing on the bus with no air conditioning, they had a digital temp just above our heads and by the time we got off it read 41 degrees 🥵 We were so glad to get off into the relatively mild 33 degree heat. We went straight to the Basilica Cistern, Neil even lined up with me to go in. This Cistern was builit in the 6th century, it met the water needs of the city for centuries by distributing the water obtained from historical waterways such as the Hadrian’s Pipeline and from rain, and delivered it to the Great Palace where the emperors resided.
    They put different coloured lights on the pillars and it created a beautiful show. We walked on board walks and there was water all around us. They also have artworks in different places throughout the structure. The young female instagrammers were a pain in the butt.
    We were looking for the entrance to the Cistern when a young man approached us and pointed us in the right direction, he said after you come out you must come to my families business. We thanked him and carried on. When we came out he was waiting for us, he was so persistent!!! In the end I just said no and walked away. There were men everywhere vying for our attention, we found it unsettling.

    We had lunch at place we stumbled upon called Pudding Shop, apparently it is quite famous in Istanbul, I can attest to the delicious authentic Turkish food.

    I did want to visit either Hagar Sophia or the Blue Mosque so I stopped at a street side stall to buy a scarf as you cannot get in without one. He said you must pay this man, who made a great show of the fact we were Kiwi’s, he said you must come and meet by brother who has been to NZ so we followed him down into a carpet business, there were 3 of them there, I felt so uneasy, nek min some coffee arrived on a tray and they wanted us to sit down with them, telling us they ship to New Zealand, I hightailed it out of there fast, we are not used to that sort of manipulation.
    I did get to to the Blue Mosque which was closed due to prayers, I found the entrance, it was free but saw that it was for a presentation in a hall outside the main mosque so I gave up, we were hot, sweaty and all out of patience for pushy people.
    Put on Google maps to get us back home, we were walking down a street (which was the correct one) and it came to an end, a building was being renovated and the way was completely blocked, we could see no way through, doubled back trying to find a street that took us down to the waterfront so we could find our way home, Neil asked a chap where to go and his friend said, No, follow me I am going back that way. I was not happy but we followed him, through the construction site which meant climbing through a small gap in the corrugated iron fence, along a bit then through another gap in the corrugated iron. By this time I was a bit distraught, thinking someone was going to accost us at any minute, but I guess we should have faith as he took us exactly where we needed to go and didn’t want any money for doing it. Never been so pleased to get back to our hotel and air conditioning.

    Apparently there is going to be a heatwave in Turkey over the next few days and one of the locations for our cruise is having wildfires, interesting times!
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  • Oceania Cruise - Day 1 - 3

    Jul 27–30 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

    We are on an Oceania Cruise boat called Nautica. It is a smaller boat with only 650 people compared to over 2000 on the Celebrity cruise we took 20 years ago.
    There is everything you could ever want on these boats, 4 dining rooms, Barista bar, swimming pool with bar and restaurant, gym, spa & wellness centre, library, walking track, mini golf putting course, card room, concert venue, boutique shops, casino, destination services that deals with all travel off the boat. Our room has a verandah with deck chairs and the bed is so comfy!
    Each morning they refresh the water, towels etc, each evening they come in and turn your bed back and replace anything you might need. They do everything they can to make your journey enjoyable and comfortable.
    So many activities to do, would be impossible to take part in them all. We did enjoy the captain’s cocktail shout when they had music pool side with free drinks and he introduced his managers on the cruise. We have used the pool every day to cool down when we get back from sightseeing. The food is amazing, you never go hungry on a cruise boat, quite the opposite!
    Neil and I do not usually take part in the organised excursions, mainly because they cost so much and secondly Neil hates not being able to do his own thing. Quite often they involve 2-3 hours on a bus, 1 - 2 hours at the destination, leaving at 8 and getting back about 3 or 4 o’clock. In the heat we have been having some people have been coming back a bit worse for wear.
    Our first stop was Dikili in Turkey, we needed the tender boat to get us ashore and we walked around the town and visited the beach. We found it rather dirty and untidy, cigarette packets & butts everywhere. I needed to get some new undies as I had left about 4 pairs in a drawer in Istanbul 🤦 came across this tiny shop that had some ladies fashion out front, went in and in a glass cabinet he had a selection of cotton and bamboo undies. 3 pairs for $6NZ. I was a happy girl. As it was about 35 degrees we didn’t venture too far and got back on the boat to swim and enjoy everything it had to offer.
    2nd stop was Izmir where we visited got a taxi to the bazaar, it was huge, so many little alleyways with everything you could ever want, once we left the bazaar I realised I hadn’t taken any photos, I am getting a bit slack. Walked to a lovely park but seeing it was in the vicinity of 38degrees we headed back to the boat, walking about 4kms. I did have a toilet stop on the way back which turned out to be a flat on the ground one, another interesting experience.
    Today we are in Samos, one of the Greek Isles, it is beautiful. We got a taxi to take us to Kokkari and asked the young man to drop us at what he thought was the best beach. He chose Lemonakia, it was stunning, everything we imagined a Greek Isles beach would be like. 10 Euro for a recliner with umbrella. I went for about 4 swims, the water was so blue and warm. We lay in the sun, then in the shade and just soaked up the atmosphere. Had the most delicious bruschetta, dark bread with tomato and feta, then anchovy with a whipped feta spread.
    The young man at the restaurant organised a taxi for us to bring us back into Samos. As all the beaches have rocks instead of sand most people have beach shoes to wear so when we got dropped off we found a shop and bought some because getting into and out of the water was painful & inelegant, totally worth it though.
    We have met some lovely people, two American couples that we have had a great time with and last night a couple were sitting beside us at dinner and they were speaking Afrikaans but it turned out they were from NZ, have been there for 29 years.
    The temperatures have been between 33-38 degrees so far, we are actually getting acclimatised, but that doesn’t mean we don’t come back from our excursions bright red in the face with sweat running down our backs 😆 Straight into the pool or cool shower.
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  • Oceania Cruise - Bodrum

    Jul 30–31 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

    Neil & I had a very enjoyable night with an American couple we have met on the boat so consequently we were a bit late getting started this morning. We are moored in Bodrum, Turkey. Bodrum provided shuttle buses to get you into the centre of town which was great as it was 31 at 10am. We visited Bodrum Castle which had a museum incorporated into the different parts of the castle. It mainly focused on relics and antiquities that have been salvaged from sunken vessels centuries ago. It was extremely well presented with air-conditioning in each separate room.
    We could also see from a distance the Bodrum amphitheatre that was built in 400 BC and could accommodate 13,000 spectators. On another hill there were the remains of ancient windmills.
    All the houses are painted white which gives the town the real mediterranean vibe.
    We spent the afternoon on the boat, went to afternoon where we served tea, sandwiches & cake with a string duo entertaining us, it was very nice.
    As part of our package we have 4 meals at the speciality restaurants on board, last night we went to Toscana, an Italian restaurant. We were tired so in bed and sound asleep by 10pm while the boat sailed on towards Rhodes, another Greek Island.
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  • Rhodes - Greece

    August 1 in Greece ⋅ 🌬 33 °C

    The old walled town of Rhodes was right beside where we docked. We walked right around the outside of the wall first where most of the residents lived. There were alleyways heading off in every direction, lots of beautiful private gardens and multitudes of cats.
    We then started to come across the shops. We went into a jewellery store called Michelle Art, we were met by a chap called Papa Nico, what a character, we loved chatting with him and ended up buying a small silver ring and bracelet.
    Had lunch at a shaded Greek restaurant before hitting the main shopping area. It was busy but fantastic. I bought some linen pants & top, Neil bought two tops.
    We loved exploring this town.
    Dinner in the Grand Dining Room before retiring to our room to sit on the deck and watch the world sail by.
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  • Antalya - Ancient City of Termessos

    Aug 2–3 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Day 7 of our cruise we docked at Antalya in Turkey. As part of our cruise package we had two excursions for free, other wise they are an exorbitant amount!
    I chose to go to the Ancient City of Termessos and a walk in the Old Town of Antalya. Neil is never keen on organised tours with having to keep behind the guide, listening to the chatter, it does not suit Rip, Shit & Bust Bully so he had a bit of trepidation about this trip.
    It was amazing, even at the start Neil was saying “Good choice Trish”.
    We drove about 40mins out of the city and up a mountain to 800m, then we trekked up a rocky gravel path for another 200m to the site of the ancient city on top of the mountain. One couple turned around after about 50m as they said it was too hard for them, that took us down to 16 in our group. Even though this is one of the best preserved ruins in Turkey they are not visited often because of the climb to get there. That made it great for us as we could get a fantastic look around without pushing past bodies.
    The city was started in 700BC, it was on a trade route and they survived by charging travellers to go through the city, 6000 people lived there at its peak. In 400AD an earthquake bought the civilisation here to an end. The site has not been changed, it is still the same as when the earthquake happened, they have cleared the scrub and trees away so you can see the ruins.
    Borrowed from the internet ➡️ “Here, slowly being worn down by time, are gigantic mausoleums, vast underground cisterns, temples, imposing city walls and a breathtaking theatre perched, like Machu Picchu, on a hilltop that offers views stretching for miles all around”.
    At the start of the trek up hill there were remains of what was once an ancient marketplace for the town and along the grand street, instead of shops it was lined with tombs of Termessos’ rich and mighty. The people who passed away at Termessos were buried in sarcophagus at the very top of the surrounding peaks.
    We saw massive walls built out of limestone. Apparently all the surrounding hills are limestone so they would cut into the hills above and roll the blocks down to the town. They would make an initial cut with a chisel, then bore some holes to pour water into, the water would expand the rock and it would split apart, then they would shape them. Once down where they wanted them they would roll them on logs into the correct position. Even Alexander the Great could not invade this city, he called it the “Eagle’s Nest”
    They built an underground cistern for water, we saw five wells in a row that went down into the cistern, when it rains these still have water in them. Some of the wells were incredibly deep, once dug out they lined them with plaster to stop leaks.
    You did have to use your imagination at times to picture what the ruins would have been like in their heyday but I would have loved to have been there to see it. They had a gymnasium, where they trained soldiers and had a bath house and refectory.
    I have put a collage of a chap on our tour getting himself into a dangerous position to get a photo, there was a huge drop below him. I told him I have the last photo to exist of him before he plunges so then he does a pose for me 🤦
    The highlight was an OMG moment, as we scrambled over huge chunks of marble to the top of the peak we were suddenly looking down on the semi-circle theatre, still largely intact. The back of the theatre dropped steeply down into the valley.
    Our guide demonstrated how good the acoustics were by getting one of our younger group members to talk to us from the bottom and you could hear every word. The seats were curved underneath so that when the sound hit them it would come back out into the theatre, so clever. There were holes carved to put umbrellas in. The theatre had capacity for around 4000 people.
    I got the tick of approval from Neil, he was as fascinated as I was. As usual the photos cannot replicate the atmosphere and the majesty of it.
    Back down the hill into the old town of Antalya and a cold drink at a local Turkish cafe. We visited Hadrian Gate, built for the Roman Emperor Hadrian, it was later incorporated into the walls that surrounded the city and harbour. We saw some lovely mosaic tile floors and the old drainage system is still in use in the old town. The houses are not allowed to be knocked down so they have to renovated. They also cannot be sold, they must stay in the family so consequently there are houses falling down that the family cannot afford to renovate.
    My favourite part of this visit was the cat lying in front of the gate and the litter of kittens that were in plain sight.
    As it was now 34 degrees we were glad to get back to the ship and have a swim and a lie down.

    I will put up an extra post with photos of the old town and some more from Termessos.
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  • Antalya - Termessos - extra photos

    August 2 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

    Additional Photos from the Old City of Antalya and the Ancient City of Termessos

  • Alanya/Turkey-Lemesos/Cyprus-Kos/Greece

    Aug 3–6 in Cyprus ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    Alanya - I had a bit of an upset stomach so it was a very quiet day for me, even had dinner via room service. Reset and recharge. Neil did go for a 40min walk into Alanya then also had a restful day. We watched approx 40 boats come out of the harbour, one after the other, packed with ‘young’ people, they bought them out into the bay and they all jumped off the boats from varying heights. No lifejackets just little floaters chucked into the water for them to grab if needed. One of the boats was called Titanic and they were playing Celine Dion’s song “My Heart Will Go On” as people went up the front plank to do the pose, it was funny to watch. Loud music emanated from other boats, they were ready to party. All activities in Alanya centred around the water, there were lovely beaches as well with thousands of loungers set out.
    I enjoyed watching Stanley Tucci in Italy on the TV, he was describing the foods found in Italian regions, will be handy to know when we get there. It was the first TV I have watched in weeks.
    Limassol - We docked at 6am and left at 1pm as we have a long trip back to Kos. We took a walk into town, had coffee with some other American people we met on our trek up the mountain, they have been to New Zealand twice and intend coming back in two years. They spent 8 weeks in the South Island and loved it, they did not rate the North Island which was a shame, we enjoyed our trip around the NI in 2023.
    We tried to exchange our Turkish money as we have finished our stopovers in Turkey so we went into a money exchange in Cyprus. She looked at us and said “We do not exchange Turkish money because we are at war with them” I said how sorry we were and that we should have known that already but honestly we had no clue. We did have a bit of a giggle when we left the building.
    Since our visit into Lemesos did not provide much exercise we visited the gym on the ship for the first time when we got back and used the treadmills. Fabulous view out over the city as you walked, should have taken advantage of the gym before now.
    Neil tried his hand for the first time in the Casino but his pockets came back empty 😆
    Today we anchored at sea and got the tenders into Kos. Kos is where Hippocrates had his medical school, it is here that the Hippocratic Oath was first told. We visited his statue in the old town of Kos where we read the following inscription: Hippocrates, Father of Medicine and Health: Let food be thy medicine and medicine by thy food, Walking is man’s best medicine, Prevention is better than cure. The statue is under a famous Plane Tree where Hippocrates would teach his students.
    We had lunch in the old town where I tried a Greek dish: stuffed vine leaves. They were stuffed with rice, herbs & spices, they were delicious served with Tzatziki sauce (yoghurt, cucumber, garlic). We ordered garlic bread for two which turned out to be enough for six.
    On the ship tonight in the buffet the theme was Greek food, so many choices and only so much room in my belly but we did our best.
    Gorgeous sunset tonight going down behind some Greek Isles.
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  • Heraklion / Greece

    Aug 6–7 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    We were docked right at the entrance to the old town in Heraklion but we decided to get a Hop On Hop Off Bus first to get a feel for the place. I had booked tickets to see the Knosses Palace which was on the route. The cruise had an excursion here but doing it this way was much cheaper and we could go at our own pace. As it turned out it was a very good decision, we didn’t have to wait in line to get tickets and I am not exaggerating when I say there were 1,000’s of people there. At least 40 buses were lined up with more coming all the time at 9:30 in the morning. The ruins were extensive and they are recreating some of the areas.
    We had to push through the crowds to get out, back on the bus and got out at the back entrance to the old town which was lovely. I had an authentic Greek lunch, mackerel marinated in light soy sauce, creamed avocado and Taramasalata meze. I had to ask the waitress what this sauce was as it was so delicious: It is made from tarama, the salted and cured roe of cod, carp, or grey mullet mixed with olive oil (photo below). Doesn’t sound wonderful but trust me it was!
    Neil had mini hamburgers, we love Tapas food, such a great way to eat.
    We then visited the Koules or Castello a Mare, a sea fortress located at the entrance of the old port of Heraklion, Crete. We found this far more interesting than the Knosses Palace ruins. The fortress has been restored and we learnt the history of Heraklion as we wandered through the tunnels. 1573-1646: Republic of Venice 1646-1898: Ottoman Empire 1898-1913: Cretan State.
    Wandered back to our ship, had a swim to cool down then had dinner with our new American friends, Carol & Kipp. We then attended a concert by a classical guitarist before the heads of departments on our cruise came out to say Hi.
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  • Santorini - additional photos

    August 7 in Greece ⋅ 🌬 28 °C

    The landscape outside of the villages was arid, so dry. Some of the vines were dying from lack of water as it has been a very hot season.

  • Santorini - walk down the hill!

    August 7 in Greece ⋅ 🌬 28 °C

    Instead of taking the cable car down to the bottom of the hill we walked down along with a lot of other people and many donkeys. It was fun, entertaining & hot but we made it.

  • Santorini / Greece

    August 7 in Greece ⋅ 🌬 28 °C

    Santorini has always been on my bucket list to visit and it did not disappoint, I loved every minute of our visit. This was one of two excursions we booked through Oceania Cruises.
    From landing by tender at Athinios Port we hopped on a bus and went up a very steep very windy hill to reach the first village we visited Pyrgos. On our journey the guide explained that Santorini was formed after a major volcano 3,600 years ago, this eruption sank most of the land where the Greek Islands are now located and killed over 35,000 people and the thriving Minoan civilisation. The last eruption was in 1950 and it is still considered an active volcano.
    In January-March this year Santorini had a series of earthquakes, happening every few minutes with the largest being 5.3. They thought a hidden magma flow may have triggered them. Apparently tourism stopped to the Island and 10,000 people were evacuated. In April cruise ships returned but there has been less tourists than normal. We knew nothing about this, just as well as I may have struggled to get Neil off the boat. Even with all the earthquakes the structures had minimal damage. All the buildings have rounded roofs and are no taller than 2 stories. Apparently the rounded roofs make them very stable.
    Other Info: Santorini gets 100ml of rain a year!!! They have no fresh water supply. The primary source of drinking water is a desalination plant. They also rely on water delivery from deep wells. He did say they get sea fog in the winter which waters the vines & plants they have on the island otherwise they survive with no irrigation. They are small bushes, growing very close to the ground, Santorini wine fetches high prices due to the scarcity of the grapes. There are 16,000 permanent residents but they welcome 3.4 million tourists a year.
    All churches have their domes painted blue so no matter where you are you can see where the churches are otherwise they would be lost in a sea of white.

    The 3 villages we visited were Pyrgos, Oia (pronounced Eea) and Fira, which is the capital of Santorini. They were all so beautiful, this visit was everything I thought it would be.
    Yes, there were crowds in places but that did not detract from our visit.
    In Pyrgos Neil and I were rebels in our group and walked right to the top and visited the old castle then popped into a local cafe who were not actually open but made us a coffee and said, go on up to the roof for the view. Stunning. Greek coffee is the best so far! So many colourful doors, bougainvillea plants with their colourful display & cats.
    In Oia Neil, Kipp, Carol & I had to pop into a bar for a Greek beer, a bit of local research.

    In Fira we had lunch at a rooftop cafe and once again had authentic Greek food. I had Tomatokeftedes, fried tomato balls, made from crushed tomatoes & onion fried in oil, the batter is tomatoes and flour kneaded into a dough along with spices, parsley, onion & mint, the dough is then fried in oil. This was a lot healthier than it sounds 😆
    Once we had our fill of looking around we then headed down to the boat. We did get cable car tickets with our excursion but the line was very long - 45min to an hour wait. Kip went on the cable car as he has a bad knee but Carol, Neil & I walked down the 600 steps to the bottom. There were donkeys (mules actually) we could have ridden but I felt much happier on my own two feet. There were so many mules on offer, it wasn’t unusual for 2 or 3 to come trotting up in front of you with no riders, they were just heading back to base. I have added a video of about 5 of them kicking & bucking their way down (with no riders) we made sure we were out of the way when we heard them approaching. The path was actually quite slippery in places because of the marble, shiny concrete and mule dung which turned to chaff. We made it safely to the bottom after about 40mins and Kip had just arrived in the cable car.
    Neil did a good deed with one mule who refused to move out of the middle of the track and people were scared to go by, he used the old horse breaking trick of holding his tail which stops them kicking, he ended up being there for quite a while as people filed gratefully past.
    I do shake my head at some women, I am a practical person so wear comfortable clothes and shoes fit for hiking but some women heading down the track had high slip ons on their feet with long dresses, looked pretty but man were they struggling and falling!

    I have so many photos, I hope you enjoy.

    What a fantastic way to end our cruise. We have thoroughly enjoyed learning the history of Turkey and the Greek Islands, sampling their cuisine & beer/wine, meeting wonderful people along the way. Unfortunately we will now have to go back to fending for ourselves. We got used to having our room tidied up while we were at breakfast, then our bed remade and turned down while we were at dinner with bonus chocolate on your pillow, so much food available at all times, pool for cooling down, afternoon tea with bonus music.
    Luxury part of the trip over, back to reality.
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  • Athens - The Acropolis

    Aug 8–10 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    When I was a child I discovered encyclopaedias in the school library, I was fascinated by Greek history. I read about the Acropolis then and thought it would be amazing to see.
    We are in Athens now for 2 nights and the first thing I did was book 2 tickets to see the Acropolis. The lady in our hotel told us to go at 7pm because it would be quieter and you would see the sunset. She was right about the sunset but wrong about everything else. I thought, having booked tickets online for the 7pm session that we would go up to the gate and go right in. No, we were sent to the back of a long line which got longer and longer. When they let everyone in it was a free for all, the marble steps were beautiful but slippery so you had to be careful.
    I was excited to see the Acropolis - it had scaffolding on the front of it, a digger in the middle of it, construction buildings behind it. The crowd was unbelievable. I was deflated but you can’t win them all. We did get some fabulous photos of Athens and the amphitheatre from the hill.

    Back down the hill, sat in a small bar people watching, listening to music and enjoying the hum of a vibrant city.
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  • Athens / Rome

    Aug 9–11 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 38 °C

    Quiet last day in Athens, had breakfast at 10am, delicious pancakes with strawberries, walnuts & honey for me, scrambled eggs, bacon, mushrooms for Neil. We then walked the streets, looked at multiple tourist shops, looked in the historical Panaghia Kapnikarea Church, took some photos and saw the notice on the way out NO PHOTOGRAPHY oops 🙊
    After a couple of hours we headed back as it was 34 degrees and humid!
    Out for dinner at the lineup of restaurants that is on the way to the Acropolis. We really rate Greek food and Greek coffee, the best we have had on our trip. Their Moussaka was delicious and Neil had salmon steak on lentils, so many gorgeous flavours. We have a lot of recipes to whip up when we get home.
    We flew from Athens to Rome on the equivalent of JetStar. Neil was pretty cramped up but the 1 hour 45mins went by quickly so all good. When we got off the plane we picked up our luggage and left - no scanning passports, no immigration officers, no
    luggage checks, felt so strange. Must be because we were still in the EU going from Greece to Italy but still ….. strange.
    Our accommodation in Rome is right beside Roma Termini Train Station and only 20min walk from the Colosseum so great location again, thanks Debbie for our Athens & Rome accommodation.
    We decided to pack up some more of our luggage and send it home, I want to buy some presents for the family and definitely don’t need long sleeved jerseys, puffy vest, & 3/4 pants.
    Neil bought (a rather large box) from a hardware store and off we went at 2pm to post it, the Post Office was about a 1km away, doesn’t seem far, but carrying 5kg in 38 degree sun with it radiating off the black paving side walks, it was like being in a sauna. Got there and it was closed at 12:30 and not just for a siesta! We knew there was another one on the other side of the train station so off we go only to find it closed at 1:30 😬 Neil had a great workout 😂 Walked 3kms in total. The box can come with us for a ride in our lease car tomorrow until we find a PO with more congenial opening hours.
    I have had a filling fall out, there are several dentists near us and the receptionist at our hotel told us to go to Sky Dental as you don’t need an appointment. I was there at 8am when the door opened. The receptionist just said no Doctors, we asked about tomorrow as we could put off picking up the lease car for a few hours but she just shook her head. She said if emergency go to Hospital. I have no pain yet so hopefully I can find a more congenial dentist somewhere on the trip as well.
    After we walked to view the Colosseum this morning we had a coffee and met a lovely woman from New Zealand who was holidaying in Italy by herself. Her husband is back home looking after the market garden. She has travelled to some beautiful places, I take my hat off to her, because I am pretty sure I would not enjoy doing this by myself.
    Last leg of our journey underway - Italy - we are looking forward to getting the car, seeing some countryside and staying in small villages - as long as we can get out of Rome in the morning!
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  • Salerno - Organic farm in the mountains

    Aug 12–14 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    I am feeling better!! So here we go on catchup.

    On the morning of the 12th Aug we got a taxi from our hotel in the centre of Rome to the Lease Car pickup point near Fiumicino Airport. Our taxi driver could not speak English but he sure can speak frustrated Italian when, after 40 mins, we were 2 mins away and the police had closed the road, the window was down, words were said with lots of arm waving before he followed the rest of the traffic around the block at snails pace to drop us off 10 mins later than planned.
    Our Peugeot 2008 car is new, as all lease cars are, and is everything we wanted. We had a lovely guy show us the ropes who took more time than the rental car companies do, to give us the instructions, on how everything worked. Although, I think we are just better at asking the right questions as this is our 5th rental car. You save a significant amount by getting a lease car instead of a rental car but you do have to have it for a length of time. In our case, a month.

    Got to admit we were extremely nervous about driving out of Rome and heading to Salerno, a 3 hour drive. We stuck to the motorways this time which meant we hit tolls, we did do some research about the toll gates so getting our ticket was easy, when it came to pay it was a different story, we got the manned booth as planned but we had no clue what he was saying to us and after putting cash in, getting in spat out, then using our card, all to no avail, it came up with an exorbitant amount to be paid, we used our card and away we went. We have avoided the tolls since, even though we have conducted a lot more research. We have talked to Italians and they have been stung with ridiculous amounts as well. Oh well, another travel story.
    I booked our accommodation way up on a mountain above Salerno, tricky getting to it but so worth it. Views out over the valleys, ocean and Salerno down below were superb. We had the dubious honour of watching a wildfire start on a nearby mountain. The airplane that was filling up out of ocean below us, then flying through the mountains to the Mt Vesuvius wildfire to dump on it, was then diverted to put the one out we were watching. Very scary time for Europe as the wildfires keep raging.

    Our accommodation had two swimming pools but the best part was the organic orchard, vege garden that was part of the property. We were allowed to wander through it and help ourselves to the fruit and veges. The tomatoes had the best flavour. We went out early one morning and an old gentleman was working in the garden, he made us take some greengage plums and he was very proud of the Kiwifruit that was thriving there. We communicated through hand gestures, a special moment. The next day they had pulled out the dried up pea stalks and laid them in a courtyard to dry. They then separated all the pods from the stalks and using a spade threw them on the concrete which put the peas up in the corner and the dry matter strewn about. The old gentleman then used a cloth to flick over top of the waste and it separated everything from the peas. You could tell this practice had been happening for many years. Fascinating to watch.
    They had: olives, apples, kiwifruit, grapes, greengages, nectarines, variations of aubergines, tomatoes, potatoes, peas, beans, cucumbers, pumpkins, squash and more. All terraced on a hillside and fed with organic fertiliser they make on the property.
    I was wandering in the garden in the evening when I heard bells clanging and a dog barking. I followed the sound and could tell the animals were going to be heading past our driveway so I actually ran to make it to the gate to video them. Turned out to be goats being bought in from the forest, I have a video below and you can hear me puffing 😆
    When we first arrived we quickly put our gear inside then headed back down to Salerno to get some supplies. I clicked on a supermarket in Google Maps and away we went. Ended up taking us up this very narrow alleyway, nearly ran over an older gentleman’s foot, who was sitting on his doorstep, he casually pulled it out of the way, he was obviously used to this. We did finally make it to the supermarket, believe me they are not like our supermarkets! Having to weigh all your fruit and vegetables, putting a ticket on them, before taking them to the checkout is a trick you only learn about when you reach the checkout!
    We took a walk up the road where the cattle run free with bells on, the forest seems to be the grazing ground for these animals as well. The sheepdog they had here was a Maremmano-Abruzzese breed which is indigenous to central Italy 😁 Sitting on our deck in the late afternoon having a drink overlooking the magnificent countryside and the Adriatic sea was a special moment for us. Made more special by celebrating our 49th wedding anniversary there.
    We loved our time here, I could have easily stayed longer, but we were booked for Matera.
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  • Matera

    Aug 14–16 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    To avoid the toll debacle that happened to us previously, we decided to get off the motorway about 2/3 into our journey and take the roads less travelled. There was good and bad about this. We found this obscure bakery in Ferrandina where we had the best pizza we have tasted (except for Ben Chisholm’s home made pizza’s) Crispy thin crust with a tomato sauce, so simple but so delicious. We then proceeded on our journey, Google Maps decided to take us on this country road that only farmers used, what an experience, washed out, steep, gravel road that took us a circle and after 45mins we were practically back in Ferrandina. Reset Dolly (Google Maps) and we were on our journey - we did achieve missing the toll gate 😆

    Matera is a city on a rocky outcrop in the region of Basilicata, in southern Italy. It includes the Sassi area, a complex of cave dwellings carved into the mountainside. Evacuated in 1952 due to poor living conditions, the Sassi now houses museums like the Casa Grotta di Vico Solitario, with period furniture and artisan tools. Nearby rock churches include St. Lucia alle Malve, with 13th-century frescoes.

    I had woken up with a headache and feeling lethargic but this stop was somewhere I had really been looking forward to, so took some pills and carried on.
    It took a 15min walk from our accommodation to get our first glimpse of the old town and it definitely didn’t disappoint, it was a Wow moment. We had decided to walk down the Porto steps to the swing bridge that crossed the ravine, the track was rough but we managed it. We could have gone up the mountain on the other side to go in the deserted caves but took the wise choice to head back up to the old town.
    We started our exploration early which had the advantage of a near empty old town, by the time we had finished exploring the tour groups were starting and it was madness.
    We visited Casa Grotta di Vico Solitario where a family lived up until 1952. These were natural caves serving as homes. The mules lived inside in a pen and the dung was put in a dug out pit in the house and this served as heating for the casa (house), the aroma can’t have been very pleasant!
    They had rainwater funnelled into the house with a cistern dug out underneath, they had a well in the house for household use.
    They also built snow cisterns. There was a layer of dry twigs tied together at the bottom so the ice would not stick to the bottom of the cave then they would layer the snow with straw & dry leaves in a specially dug cistern. The end product, ice, would be cut for use or sale. Two types, white ice and black ice. White ice could be used for consumption and black for other uses. I have a photo which explains the whole process which is a fascinating history lesson on how people used natural resources to survive.
    There were many cafe/restaurants in the old town but none were open and this was 10:30 in the morning, we were dying for a coffee and finally found one that was open on the outskirts of the old town. By this time I was starting to feel unwell, had to sit down 3 times on the way home and sit on a fence. Proceeded to sleep 3 hours in the afternoon then the gastroenteritis started. That scuttled our idea of going back into the old town and having dinner.
    The start of an unpleasant 3 days.
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  • Guardialfiera

    Aug 16–19 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 35 °C

    Guardialfiera was a small mountain top village in the province of Campobasso, it sits on a hilltop overlooking Lake Guardialfiera which was created a a result of the damming of the Biferno river. The road runs down through the middle of the lake which makes for a picturesque drive. The lake is not used recreationally for swimming or fishing as the only fish in it are carp, chub, pike, large mouth bass (which grow up to 20kg) eels, catfish & trout. Lake was formed by building a dam on the Biferno River in 1970 for water storage for the benefit of agriculture and industrial purposes.
    The population of Guardialfiera is only 949. Our lovely host Guiseppe met us in a Piazza and directed us to where our apartment was then went off in search of a parking spot on the main street with Neil backing his car back down the street following him. Mission successful then Neil had to bring the suitcases up by himself as I was getting instructions in the apartment which went in one ear and out the other. As it was a Saturday the Pharmacy was shut, Guiseppe offered to bring me some painkillers from his house which was very nice.
    Straight to bed for me where I stayed for 2 days with Neil being an outstanding nurse.
    The church bells struck every quarter of an hour. First with the hour, with one bell, then a different frequency bell would mark the quarter hour e.g. 15, one ring, 30 two rings and 45min 3 rings. We thought it would drive us nuts but we actually quite enjoyed listening to them and knowing the time.

    Neil will tell his story of exploring this quaint old town.

    Guardialfira was not the happiest place for Trish on our adventure and few times over our 49 years have I seen her so ill. Trish was not well enough to leave the apartment but encouraged me to check it out. The main hub of this guaint small village was a square at the top of our street so I wandered up to for a look. Surprise there were 4 Bars within 100 mts of each other 2 on each side ot the narrow street. They all only catered for between 20 and 30 patrons at any one time but definitely had their locals. Tables and chairs blocking the footpath and part of the road. I purchased a cold one and sat at a table close to 5 older gentlemen ( yes older than me) they looked and smiled and I said hello, well I think that buggered it. They quickly got back to their own conversation of which I couldnt understand a word but got the feeling that ( what’s this bloody English speaking tourist doing in our part of the woods).
    All the Bars had groups sitting outside having a cold one chatting away but I was certainly the outsider and the only English tongue. Me and stubbies don’t spend long in each others company and when I returned with my second ( by the way only 2E each) another man had grabbed a seat from my table and joined the 5. He acknowledged my presence and I smiled and said Hello and surprise, surprise he responded with “you are English.” Luigi had spent his last 20 years, before retirement, living and working in Canada. Now l had an interpreter and once he explained to my old friends that I was from NZ on holiday, and I loved their town, I was back in the good books and part of the group. These guys meet every morning 4 coffee and a yarn, the bars all shut at 1pm and open at 6pm when they re-group. They had all been hard working men, 4 out of 5 still smoked but now live the simple life. I enjoyed their company 3 nights in a row and at 34d the beer tasted good. 2 doors from our apartment was the local grocery shop which opened till midday then again at 5pm till 9pm, sold all the basics and lots of local produce which kept arriving during the day as it was harvested.
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  • Grottomare - Additional photos

    Aug 19–23 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
  • Grottomare

    Aug 19–23 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    After Guardialfiere Neil found us a spot on the beach at Grottomare in the Ascoli Piceno.
    We decided to forgo the motorway and go the beach road which was a good decision as it was really pretty. So many olive trees, market gardens and ,of course, vines.
    The hotel was great with a pool and free access to the beach. Great place to rest & recuperate.
    We had dinner in the hotel the first night and we were the only English speaking guests, the rest seemed to be holidaying Italians. They summoned a young girl on staff to deal with us as she could speak a little English, we felt special 😆
    The next morning I woke up and knew I had improved a lot!!
    The breakfast was interesting - Italians, in this region anyway, like cake for breakfast, they had about 3 different types. Cheese and ham are always favourites, croissants, and toast which was nice to see. They are obviously not big fans of cereal for breakfast as the only one they had was cornflakes. There was a lovely wee man who cooked up crepes, omelettes & scrambled eggs on the spot for you. The only filling they had for the crepe was Nutella 😬 so I asked for honey instead, he looked at me funny but did it anyway. Neil had scrambled eggs. The next morning we arrived for breakfast and we were presented with scrambled eggs and a crepe with Nutella in for me. They thought they did so well remembering what we ordered but I could not eat that crepe, I felt so bad.

    After breakfast we went in search of a hairdresser as I am in need! Google maps came up trumps with one quite close but, as we are finding in Italy, you can never guarantee that anything will be open. The door was locked but we did spot a Post Office and a cafe. A delicious coffee (first one in 5 days for me) and a croissant filled with creamy smooth deliciousness. We might have to frequent there again so I can ask what it was. Back to the hotel to pick up THE BOX, this time we drove with it to the Post Office. We had to get back there by 1:30 because he was only open on Mon, Tues, Wed and this was Wed at 12:45. No rhyme or reason here.

    We carried on for a drive and what a treat. The mountains rose directly behind us, covered in olives, vines, so many market gardens, and plant nurseries where they grow Oleander that is planted in the middle and on the side of the roads and motorways.

    We visited Castignano Village which, unbeknown to us, was holding the Templaria Festival. We could see that everything was set up for performing but when we visited in the morning it was all quiet.
    The Templaria Festival is a large medieval festival held annually in Castignano that recreates the history and lifestyle of the Knights Templar and the Middle Ages. The festival transforms the village into an immersive experience through historical reenactments: scenes from daily life, battles, religious ceremonies, Inquisition trials, theatre, music, dancing, traditional crafts & foods. Among the most popular shows are duels, juggling, magic, and musical performances, falconry, and theatrical performances that narrate significant episodes of medieval and Templar history.
    It was a shame that all the performances were at night as I would have loved to watch some of them, Neil, not so much 😂

    The next day we visited Ripatransone, another gorgeous village on a hilltop that boasts having the narrowest alleyway in the world. The criteria for being an alleyway is: it must connect two streets, be paved and have at least one window or door. This alleyway is only 43cm wide and narrows to 38cm. The only reason I knew that this village was in our vicinity was because I finally got my hair cut and the hairdresser told me we must go to Ripatransone to see the alleyway.
    Interesting coincidence with the hairdresser: I popped in on the off chance to get an appointment (after she opened the locked door) and she could fit me in later that day. It turned out this lady was in Canada for 20 years before returning to Italy to set up her salon. The hairdresser I had in Amboise for my last haircut had also got back from Canada after 15 years to open his salon. I happened to strike two English speaking hairdressers who had both been in Canada - I mean, that is slightly weird, right?

    Two nights of the 4, we stayed in Grottomare, we went to a seafood restaurant just down the promenade. The owner was flamboyant, when I didn’t eat all my entrée he acted like I had insulted his Mother. Shock and horror when we didn’t order a caffè (coffee), it is the done thing to get an espresso at the end of your meal. Considering they don’t open until 8 and by this time it was 10pm I wasn’t putting caffeine in my system. We actually had a lot of fun with him and would thoroughly recommend the La Risacca Seafood restaurant.

    Grottomare was wonderful, relaxing, not too hot (around 29), incredible scenery & fascinating villages.
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  • Mantova / Matua - additional photos

    Aug 23–25 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Service area photos, cobble stones/rocks and food shops in Mantova

  • Mantova / Mantua

    Aug 23–25 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    When we left Grottomare we knew we had a 4 hour 17min trip on the motorway to get to Mantova. We thought we would go on the motorway as the secondary roads would have taken 6 hours 20mins. 8 hours later we arrived 😬 we averaged 50km/hour on the motorway, the traffic was so heavy. We thought it was busy at the first services area but we managed to get a coffee and go to the toilet. The 2nd service area we couldn’t get in the door! 3rd service area we got in the door, lined up in a very long line to go to the toilet. They had some amazing buffet style food there and even though there was a big crowd it all moved along very quickly so after fish & chips for me and roast pork for Neil we were back on the road.
    Neil did brilliantly navigating the traffic. We have heard horrendous things about Italian drivers but we have found them to be ‘confident’ but not dangerous. Mind you, speed limits are set but not always adhered to. You can travel at 130km on the motorways here and apart from today it usually flows really well. There has been minimal tooting and if the traffic is slowing quickly on the motorway people put their hazard lights on as a warning to slow down now!

    Random thoughts as we were driving:
    Bottle caps stay attached - fantastic way to reduce waste
    Snacks here are sweet rather than savoury
    Wine bottles have corks - no screw tops
    Cash is king - they take cards but they prefer cash.
    At service areas and cafe’s espresso is served in tiny cups and people stand at the counter and drink them quickly and go. Obviously just need caffeine hit.
    At a lot of cafe’s, restaurants you ask for a wine and they say white or red? No wine list, no choice, just take what you get. Makes you try a lot of different wines, if only you had a name so you knew what you were drinking 😂
    Some Cafe’s & Bars seem to rely on an honesty system when it comes to payment. I was watching this young guy flying around taking drink orders last night, none of it was written down with no set tables and I said to Neil, I have no idea how they will keep track of all these orders. When we went up to pay they said “what did you have?” Same thing happened at the Seafood Restaurant. They must miss out on so much money!

    We chose Mantova, also known as Mantua, because we are heading North to the Lakes District and it was on our way. It is known for its Arts Culture & food. It is on the edge of a small lake. We had a high of 24 degrees today with low humidity, a welcome change from the recent weather.
    We wandered into town today after going around the lake front and discovered a treasure trove of food shops through about 4 different piazza’s. I felt very under dressed as people were coming out for Sunday lunch and they do it in style. We found a lovely cafe and sat in the back, inside, to hide our lack of culture! People were drinking Aperol which seems to be the local drink. One cafe had giant bottles of Aperol and Campari on the tables, I think to reserve them for later clients.
    I knew Mantova had a Palace so I suggested we take a look, Neil was very good about it, even though he mentioned that the castle/palace budget had reached its limit.
    Ducale Palace was amazing, even Neil was impressed. The artwork on ceilings & walls were mind blowing. This castle has over a thousand rooms and I don’t know how many we visited but every room had a masterpiece on the ceiling. Frescoes dating from the 11th century could still be seen in patches. They are in the process of renovating the whole maze of buildings and they are doing an incredible job. The sculptures had so much detail, then there was a whole hall of busts of past emperors. I recognised many names including Hadrian, as we had visited some towns in Turkey that had Hadrian’s Gates.
    The tapestries were enormous and so detailed. I must admit to becoming quite overwhelmed with the absolute beauty of it all. I hope the photos do it justice.

    I will put up two lots of photos for this post.
    We went out for a drink at the local bar last night, Sunday night, and it was packed. A lovely man asked us where we were from and why we came to Mantova. He seemed genuinely surprised to see tourists here. We are deliberately picking out of the way places to escape tourists and crowded venues (I know, we are them) and it is working. We are seeing local Italians going about their day, or night, we are getting a glimpse on how they live their lives. They are social! The children are out with them, it is school holidays so I am sure that makes a difference.
    I had to try an Aperol Spritz as everyone seemed to be drinking it - bit sweet for me. Then had a ‘white’ wine, I think it may have had a Chardonnay taste, but will never know 😂
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  • Riva del Garda - Dolomites

    Aug 25–27 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Today we drove from Mantua to Riva del Garda, which is on the shore of Lake Garda, at the top end of the Lake. We wanted to explore a little bit of the Dolomites area.

    Northern Italy produces 70% of the milk supply and Montova is a large Dairy Farming area. Its flat contour, quality soils and wetter climate make for good growing conditions although there is still need for irrigation. Neil wanted a closer look so we headed into the country side from Montova down narrow roads and small towns all supported by Dairy and other agriculture. We only saw 1 cow in a paddock as they are all housed and fed inside, mainly because of the heat. The farms had very few fenced paddocks and were growing maise and grass for a cut and carry system.

    We stopped for coffee in a small village where a group of ladies were having their Monday morning get together. When Italians have conversations it always seems as though they are arguing, they are loud, forceful and effusive. I am sure they are not arguing, just seems like they are. Along side the cafe leaning against the planters were about 6 bikes and sure enough, when the ladies had finished they hopped on their bikes and off they went. The average age would have been about 75 - 80. Definitely one way to keep fit.
    The road around Lake Garda is built up with residential and commercial buildings, the homes looking out to the lake were very impressive. We must have gone through at least 30 tunnels as the mountains were straight up from the lake so we had to go through. The many cyclists made it tricky at times.
    The scenery was outstanding with towering mountains all around, it really did remind us of Lake Wakatipu. There were yachts, wind surfers, motor boats, baby skiffs and everything in between on the lake.
    Parking is always an issue in old towns, we were told to park on an unloading bay to get our luggage out and walk 100m to the apartment to drop it off then back to take the car to a pre-purchased parking spot in a parking garage 3km away. All went well until we tried to get into the apartment on the 4th floor (or so we thought) Neil went back to the car to make sure we didn’t get a fine while I sorted it out with the cleaning girls who were fantastic. With the help of Google Translate they rang the accommodation manager who gave them the apartment number we were going to be in. Back up to the 4th floor, I carted both suitcases, two backpacks, chilly bin and dirty washing bag down 2 flights of stairs to our room then out to Neil to give him the directions to the parking garage. It was 3km in a loop to the garage, because of the one ways streets, but thankfully only a 4min walk back to our apartment! The joys of travelling.
    Neil had done a bit of research and said that a walk to Forte Garda would be great exercise and an interesting excursion. Fort Garda was built between 1904 and 1907 by the Austro-Hungarian Army as a war fortification. The track was steep and rocky but we made it to Forte Garda and were feeling fresh so carried on to Forte Batteria di Mezzo. We underestimated how far and high it was! We did get fantastic views and a great sense of satisfaction of making it, so it was worth it. We decided to take a different route home, down a steep road then a mountain biking track to then loop up again with the track we walked up on. This time we entered Forte Garda, they are in the process of renovating it, 3 floors and many rooms.
    We walked back along the lakefront and it was jammed pack with holidaymakers making the most of the sunny hot weather.
    There were cyclists everywhere, lots of cycle ways up into the valleys and mountains surrounding us.
    15,000 steps and 11km later we were back in our apartment.
    Then we decided to try and get some present shopping done, an hour later we were back in our apartment again, probably too tired to try and make any hard decisions 😆
    For dinner we walked out our door, sat down in the restaurant in our alleyway and had a delicious dinner with wine served in ceramic jugs - very cute.
    There were a lot of German speaking tourists here, I guess it is not far through the mountains to come to this outstanding area.
    We were impressed, the scenery was outstanding, plus so clean & tidy, we would definitely recommend anyone visiting Italy to come and visit.
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  • Monte Baldo Cable Car

    August 27 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    On our way to Modena we stopped halfway around Lake Garda to take the cable car up to Monte Baldo which is 2,200m. Unfortunately the fog and clouds refused to clear so we came away disappointed. We did see some mountain orchids that the area is famous for.
    I had some Apple Strudel, I guess being so close to Switzerland that it is part of the cuisine here as well.
    Neil actually found it quite difficult to breathe up that high, wouldn’t want to do too much strenuous exercise.
    A lot of people were setting off tramping and mountain biking from the top of this mountain. It is a ski field in the winter.
    I have put one photo up of a chap mowing his grass by hand halfway up the mountain on an incredibly steep slope - kudos to him.
    There was a pen of Alpacas that people could take for walk along a track 🤨 not sure why you would want to but what do I know.
    There was a paddock of cows with bells on.
    They were paragliding down to the valley floor.
    Pity there were no views 🤣
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  • Modena - San Gimignano

    Aug 27–30 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    We are doing a bit of zig zap across Northern Italy. As I have said we decided to skip the crowds and heat in Puglia and make our way up the East Coast to the lakes and mountains and we are glad we did that. Now we are making our way back to Tuscany where I had booked accommodation a long time ago and didn’t want to cancel it.
    After Riva del Garda we headed to Modena.
    “The history of Balsamic Vinegar in Modena spans over a thousand years, originating with Roman practices of flavoring vinegar with honey and fruit, evolving into the esteemed "Balsamic Vinegar of Modena" of the Este Dukes in the 16th century who used it as a prized gift, and continuing today as a protected DOP product with strict regional standards for production and quality.”
    We tasted a cherry balsamic and an aged balsamic, both delicious on their own but they are used to drizzle on cheese, ice-cream anything that takes your fancy. At 42 Euro and 80 Euro respectively for 100ml we decided to leave them on the shelf. We visited the local market where, once again, the wide variety of produce, meats, fish etc was amazing. There was a lot of balsamic vinegar and cheese on display the main produce of this area.
    Modena is renown for its high end shopping - those items also stayed on the shelf 😆
    When we arrived in the main square there was a construction going on, after some investigation I found that it was the European Beach Volley Ball competition, starting that night and going for 4 days 😲
    In the area we were staying there was a lot of development, 3 new apartment blocks, a 2,500sqm gym/stadium, 250 car park but the area was empty of people. The apartments are not occupied yet, the car park empty, the new supermarket was virtually empty, it was quite eerie really but great for us.

    We then travelled on down to San Gimignano, I must say we nailed the toll gates now, feeling quite proud of ourselves. We know to go to the one with the black hand because it has an attendant, otherwise the one with the card & cash showing is also easy to use (once you know how!!!!)
    I had read so much about San Gimignano before heading away on our trip, it seemed to keep popping up in my Facebook feed so I booked one night in a hotel in the centre of the town.
    In Italy they have ZTL zones where you cannot take your car unless you have permission from the local authorities. You need to give your car licence plate to the hotel and they notify the relevant people for you.
    We decided to leave our car in one of the carparks outside of the town and just take an overnight bag out of the car, as we were only staying one night. Wise decision! When we saw the streets we would have had to go through to get to the hotel, which was located in the main square, where there was a market happening - it would have been very stressful.
    We wandered the streets, San Gimignano is a shopping mecca, the 3 mains streets are lined with shops. Many restaurants to cater for the day visitors.
    Gelatia Donoli is famous for their ice-cream so we had to try one after our dinner.
    The other famous food item was suckling pig buns - photo below. They cut off how much you wanted in your bun then weighed it, you paid on the weight.
    I loved San G by night, very pretty. The views of the surrounding area though is what took our breath away - true Tuscany ❤️
    We have had quite a few thunderstorms over the last few days and San Gimignano turned on a beauty for us. We waited in the hotel room until the rain went off then hurried the 800m to the car park. Just as we got in the car it tipped down again. Someone was smiling down on us.
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  • Cortona - Tuscany

    Aug 30–Sep 1 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    For a long time I have always dreamed of staying in Tuscany and immersing myself in the local culture, I am now living that dream.
    We are staying just out of Cortona in a complex of apartments, surrounded by trees with a pool. Our apartment is ….rustic 😆 has everything we need except a toaster, electric kettle and a microwave. No dishwasher but that is a first world problem. Quite a few of the apartments we have stayed in do not have toasters, obviously Italians don’t toast their bread. We must be starting to miss home as we have cooked chops with roast veges last night and one pot mince tonight. The bed is comfy, that is very important. Plus, they have the US Open on the TV so all is good. The pool was welcome after a day of sightseeing,

    The countryside is beautiful, today we visited the hilltop town of Cortona about 5km away. We actually went yesterday but all the carparks outside the walls were full so we decided to leave it until Monday, we thought (wrongly) that there wouldn’t be so many visitors on a Monday so left it until today. We got there at 9:30am and all the carparks were full, we think the workers in the town must fill them up. We ended up parking down in an olive grove and walking up to the town. The town was not overrun with tourists so we had a lovely leisurely visit.
    We decided to walk around the old walls to get to the top of the town where the Santuario di Santa Margherita was located, the church dates back to the 14th century.
    On the way up the walk there were many shrines where people could pray and give their thanks, they were decorated with beautiful mosaics.
    This town was like a maze, we just wandered down until we got back to the main street where we had lunch, porcini mushroom pizza for me and a green salad for Neil. All meals get served with a bottle of olive oil and balsamic vinegar.
    The town was setting up for “Cortona on the Move” 23 exhibitions, 73 artists. We visited an art gallery that was displaying Pablo Picasso and Salvador Dali artworks. I think Neil described it as interesting 😆
    There are a lot of lizards here, last night Neil had a go at catching a baby that decided to walk up our apartment wall, he was too quick for Neil so is now residing behind the fridge.
    The temperature is between 24 - 27 degrees, very pleasant.
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  • Cortona - Tuscany Day 2-3

    Sep 2–4 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 24 °C

    We travelled to Lago Trasimeno a lake only 20 minutes from where we are staying, the 4th largest lake in Italy at 128km2. Only two minor streams flow directly into the Lake and none flows out. It is only 5m deep and in the past malarial mosquitoes prospered. To combat the malaria some mosquito larvae-eating fish were imported from the US during the 1950’s.
    Although billions of larvae are eaten, there are still many mosquitoes and other insects. When we visited a breeze was blowing so we didn’t notice any mosquitoes but we certainly didn’t linger other than coffee and croissant for morning tea.
    We proceeded to drive in a loop, initially looking for a vineyard so we could sample some local wines but unfortunately they don’t open until later in the day so we missed out on that. We are not too worried as all cafe’s & supermarkets carry all local wines. Chianti is the local red that is produced. The secondary roads in Tuscany are very rough! The road we took to find one vineyard was worse than going on a gravel road and we ended up in a farmers farmyard, he kindly pointing us through the yard onto a track and there was the vineyard which looked upmarket and beautiful but was unfortunately closed 😆
    We saw the Tuscany rolling hills today with medieval villages, vineyards, olive groves and tall cypress trees lining the driveways and around the casa’s. The farmers are busy ploughing up the fields for their crops.
    There were warnings for thunderstorms again, the clouds built up but all turned to nothing. Neil and I have realised we have had hardly any wind in our time in Italy. That will change when we get back to Pisa Moorings!

    There are fields of sunflowers everywhere. When the back of the sunflower head turns yellow/brown, the petals have fallen off and the seeds are plump, black and easy to remove when pulled with a fingernail, it is time to harvest the seeds. At this point the head has drooped. They are all at this stage here and are being harvested.
    We saw one crop that we didn’t recognise. Popped a photo into Google and got this information. It was Sorghum, a versatile grain primarily used as animal feed and a gluten-free human food. Its plant stalks can be used as biofuel, and some varieties are grown for forage for livestock. Apparently we grow it in northern regions of NZ but I didn’t know that!

    Yesterday we drove out onto the plains and saw many more crops being grown including a lot of fruit trees and berries. After visiting a couple of villages where we failed to find a cafe we headed for hills. We did notice that there are quite a lot of empty dilapidated houses, we wondered if property is being bought up to make bigger farms, like in NZ, and these houses are no longer needed.
    We ended up in a tiny village called Palazzo del Pero where a delightful older gentleman served us, only after I asked via Google Translate if he had Soy or Oat milk (I am dairy intolerant) for the coffee, he threw his hands up in horror, No No, so I asked for Tea, he frantically looked around then No, No so finally I asked for a espresso, his face lit up, Lungo (long black), we smiled at each other. My long black was a third of the way up the cup with no extra hot water but it was lovely. The only food he had was a jam tart so we ordered two pieces. He rushed off to heat it up and it was delicious. It was a big restaurant and he was setting it up for lunch so they obviously get very busy later in the day, it was a gorgeous place.

    We went out to start the car and it wouldn’t start. It actually would not turn off completely either, the symbols were still showing on the dashboard. After trying different things we got out the information to call the Peugeot car company, who we leased the car off, as you are not allowed to do anything without letting them know. Our phones wouldn’t connect to the number. I have since figured out why but that didn’t help at this stage. In desperation I said “why won’t the damn thing turn off” and pushed the start/stop button one more time - and it turned off. We looked at each other in amazement, got out of the car for a bit of a breather then got back in and pushed the button and away we went.

    Neil decided we were going to head to Montone which he thought was in a valley on the loop we were going on to get back to Camucia. I was still feeling anxious about the car perhaps stopping and not starting again so as we headed up many switchbacks up a hill my anxiety went up a few notches. Neil and I have now been to many villages and they all have their own charm. Montone had just had festival week so the town was at its best for us. It was enchanting, quiet, pretty, wandering in the streets was like going back in time and everything slowed down. This town was definitely at the top of our list. As we were walking down the alleyway towards the Piazza an older gentleman starting talking to us, I got him to speak into Google Translate, he was saying “Our village is very beautiful, enjoy” He then popped into a house further down the alleyway.
    We had lunch at a restaurant called L’Antica Osteria di Montone. A lady came out to serve us and spoke in an Aussie accent, she had married an Italian and came here in 1993 but her accent was still strong. I didn’t realise how much I missed having a conversation with someone (other than Neil). Neil had the beef shoulder and I had Chianti carpaccio (local beef) with black truffles. Both were delicious.

    We have now been helped by 4 Aussies’s on our travels who all speak fluent Italian, one who told us how to order our food at the service area (order your food at the cashier, then present it to the people serving food, not easy when you don’t have a clue how to say the names of the food 😆), one in the bakery who ordered for us, one in the supermarket who got the low fat milk for me, and now our lady today at the restaurant. Thank you Aussies.
    After spending a leisurely couple of hours in Montone we headed back to the car with fingers crossed. All was good and we headed back home through many fields of tobacco (identified after another photo google search) It is being harvested as it is the start of Autumn here.
    Home in time for a swim in the pool, our rustic accommodation has turned out to be very relaxing. We are cooking our own meals at night, getting prepared for our return home in 12 days.
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