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Canada.The Eastern bit.
  • Stephen French
Jun – Jul 2019

Canada.The Eastern bit.

A 30-day adventure by Stephen Read more
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  • Trip start
    June 19, 2019
  • Stephen FrenchCanada.The Eastern bit.Traveler
    Our airbnb. Second floor sandwiched between a supermarket and online beer store.

    Toronto eh!

    June 21, 2019 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    No problems with the flight except my dried up pasta. Then after the chaos of the airport we set out on bus, subway and bus for the Airbnb.Transport is frequent however the paper transfer seems a bit out of date. The Airbnb is situated in a lively and interesting area. Their are many restaurants where you can sit out on a warm evening and watch the vagrants shuffle past pushing supermarket trollies full of their worldly possessions.

    We explored the city centre, like lots of other American cities. It’s big and brash but the people are much calmer. Micro breweries are quite popular. We visited two and walked past a few more. The first, Steam whistle brewing (cloudy lager) is situated near a railway yard and turntable. Hence the photo and Mill Street brewing (IPA that didn’t taste like IPA). Is based in the distillery district. A renovated area with little shops to wander around. Enticing tourists to buy things that’ll never use at home but they think was a good idea at the time.    Read more

  • Stephen FrenchCanada.The Eastern bit.Traveler
    Oh Canada!

    Oh Niagara!

    June 22, 2019 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    160 Miles travelled.
    Our coach was due to leave the Dragon city shopping mall in Chinatown at 08.30. At 08.02 I got a call from Alex the guide wanting to know where we were! After legging it for a bit we climbed the stairs of the coach to be met with a sea of Chinese faces. The journey was uneventful other than to try to understand Alex’s rather thick Chinese accent.

    The first sight of the falls is obviously impressive. The sun highlighting the white roaring water with plumes of spray hovering above a watery amphitheater. Heather and I walked across the Rainbow bridge and after completing formalities we were in the USA. Heather brought a charm from the Hard Rock Cafe we took some photos of the falls (side on) then we high tailed it back to Canada. It’s very easy to compare the behaviour of the Americans and the Canadians and there are differences. One is verbally and visually direct and the other is calmer and less demonstrative. Which unusually is a contrast to both areas close to the falls. The US side is a national park while the area of Clifton hill on the Canadian side is the worst kind cheap seaside Amusements you can think of.

    The trip back to Toronto was long and tedious as it was rush hour and people were dropped off before us. We did visit a winery where the red was nice but not exceptional however the hard sell was ice wine (google how it’s made) which the Chinese brought in droves. It wasn’t pleasant to my taste buds. Last off the coach and into a dim sum restaurant we were starving.    Read more

  • Stephen FrenchCanada.The Eastern bit.Traveler

    Going local.

    June 22, 2019 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Our last day in Toronto was forecast to be a scorcher and it was. We did what most locals do on weekends like this and rode the ferry across Lake Ontario to the islands. Only ten minutes away from downtown and the park is very pleasant to walk around with BBQs and beaches. We did have to dodge the odd flooded area though. Apparently this region has seen more than it fair share of rain this winter. The lake is a little too cold to swim in. We realised this after we saw plenty of sunbathing going on and the odd dog crashing into the water chasing a chewed up Frisbee but no human swimmers. I went for a paddle and yes it was very cold. After we returned to the mainland we finished our day with a meal in another brewpub (Goose Island).Read more

  • Stephen FrenchCanada.The Eastern bit.Traveler

    Toronto to Montreal.

    June 23, 2019 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    475 miles travelled.
    I do like the wide loading gauge of North American trains. We certainly didn't feel cramped on our published five hour trip to Montreal. On the journey we got stuck behind a freight train which we leap frogged using bidirectional signalling. I can just about remember what that is! however it did add thirty minutes to our arrival time. Chucked our bags in the Airbnb and went for poutine, heart attack on a plate.Read more

  • Stephen FrenchCanada.The Eastern bit.Traveler

    Ah! Montreal, Mount Royal of course

    June 24, 2019 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Today we walked up the steep hill to Mount Royal, the park that overlooks the city with some fine views. We did feel out of place as mostly the people we were walking up with were giving the illusion of fitness dressed in their activeware. The walk continued on down the other side though the woods until we came across an area with lots of small restaurants. The area is also dotted with many fine murals and it took some time to admire and photograph them. Following all that action we were hungry and ended up in a tiny diner called Patata patati. Smashing vibe and hudgly popular.Read more

  • Stephen FrenchCanada.The Eastern bit.Traveler

    The eyrie.

    June 25, 2019 in Canada ⋅ 🌧 24 °C

    I have renamed our Airbnb in Montreal the ‘eyrie’ it is situated on the 19th and top floor of a block of flats. When I look out the open window I get that tingling feeling of apprehension as I stare down to road level. Just one slip and I could be a stain on someone’s car. The inference would be that there are nice views to be had. This is not the case though. Opposite is another block of flats and we are directly in line with the air conditioning system that drones on day and night and we have to keep the windows open to in order to cool the flat. Below the A/C I can look into people private lives. I’d like to reenact scenes from Hitchcock’s ‘The rear window’ but I haven’t seen anyone across the way yet. Noise and smells funnel up to our level and we get snippets of conversations that are a disproportional distance away. Our apartment fills with the aromas of cigarettes, Chinese cooking and weed as it’s legal in Canada. It’s rained a lot today!Read more

  • Stephen FrenchCanada.The Eastern bit.Traveler

    Old town and bagels

    June 26, 2019 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    We wandered aimlessly around Montreal and found ourselves in the Old town. While pleasant to look around it really wasn’t for us. Too many stalls selling T shirts and maple syrup. Then we took the subway up to the Jewish quarter and visited the St Viateur bagel shop. Now this is authentic and very busy. Sesame seed was the most popular The bagels were still warm as we ate them, walking along looking in the shops. Later on we came across this toilet which was just a smudge in the road but when viewed through a camera it became 3D. It’s called Anamorphic street art. Over the last week Heather’s walked her socks off and as a result she’s got a number of blisters. She’s stuck plasters all over the offending bits and now, fortunately her feet are on the mend.Read more

  • Stephen FrenchCanada.The Eastern bit.Traveler

    Panic over

    June 27, 2019 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    845 miles travelled

    Picked up the car from Montreal airport and had an unremarkable journey along the trans-Canadian highway through Quebec to New Brunswick where we changed time zones. The only thing to note was that when we did stop for coffee and a break. French is the dominate language. Unlike Montreal which is largely bilingual. On arrival at Edmundston our home for the night. We drove across the river and after formalities at the border post we were back in America, Why? I needed to pick up a geocache in Maine. I left Heather in a McDonalds with free WiFi. But she didn’t need it as it’s the local gossip hotspot for the small town of Madawaska and I went to pick up a cache. Couldn’t find the first one, neither the second. Getting panicky. I wanted to colour in Maine on my geocaching website. Third attempt got close but had to retrace my steps as I came across a ‘no trespassing’ sign. Eventually arrived at the coordinates and looked around for some minutes. Found it, panic over. The container was a plastic pine cone attached to a pine tree in a wood that hadn’t been found for over a year. Signed the log, picked up Heather. Took a photo of us in Maine then scrambled back to Canada over the metal grid decking bridge that buzzed as we drove across and on to our bed for the night.Read more

  • Stephen FrenchCanada.The Eastern bit.Traveler

    Straw hat and pigtails

    June 29, 2019 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    1172 miles travelled
    We journeyed through the forests of New Brunswick over the eight mile long confederation bridge to Prince Edward Island (P.E.I.). The first thing that struck us was how red the sand and dirt is (like Dawlish!). It’s a pretty island with watery inlets cutting into the rolling landscape and there are farms with red barns and tractors rusting away in the undergrowth. One of the reasons to visit this island is to see the house that was the subject of the book ‘Anne of green gables’. Canada parks manage it and a fine job they have done. Nice to stroll around and take in the atmosphere. L M Montgomery the lady author was born and lived close by and the house was owned by her elderly relatives. However outside the gate. Some ‘entrepreneurs’ have cached in on the theme. If it’s not ticky tacky shops, it’s crazy golf or miniature roller coasters that vie for your attention. Not really in keeping with the area. We have enjoyed some nice trails nearby and as we walk along we come across swathes of lupins they are everywhere. Unfortunately the mozzies here are everywhere too and ferocious. Stop for a second and they are on you biting away. However a liberal application of deet see them bouncing and skidding away. It defiantly works on these horrors. Visited Charlottetown the capital of P.E.I. Nothing much to write home about. Bit of a tourist trap.Read more

  • Stephen FrenchCanada.The Eastern bit.Traveler
    Randomly came across thisCloudy but fairFerry between PEI and Nova Scotia

    Nova Scotia or bust.

    July 2, 2019 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    The rain was coming down like stair rods as we left the motel at Cavendish on PEI to catch the ferry at Wood islands an hour and twenty minutes away. It was full and as I had booked in advance, we got on. Unlike the two rows of cars that were left on the quayside and had to wait for the next boat. On arrival at Caribou, we drove through the forests and the occasional gathering of houses to the South Coast of the Nova Scotia peninsular where Scott and Denise’s ‘granny flat’ is above their garage. Very nice and private with views over the Petpeswick lake and surrounding Forrests near the community of Gaetz brook.

    Halifax is half an hours drive away and it has a beautiful harbour. We parked at Dartmouth on the Eastern side and then hopped on the ferry for the ten minute ride over to the city. Can’t say it’s that interesting. Blocks of 1970s high rise business’s line the waterfront with a bit of heritage squeezed in between. The land sharply raises to the fort, we know as we climbed it. This leaves the tourist trying to find something photogenic to snap and there was a few of them around as the cruise ship ‘Queen Mary 2’ was tied up further along the quay. For me a saving grace is that there are number of small breweries dotted around the city. We visited one called 2 crows, no history just shiny stainless still vats. Beers ok just the one as I was driving. May come back as we missed the immigration museum and the three other breweries.    Read more

  • Stephen FrenchCanada.The Eastern bit.Traveler

    Roots, roots oh! and a snake.

    July 3, 2019 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    The forecast was 18 degrees and sunny intervals, ideal for a walk. An old railway line has been turned over to a trail the ‘Musquodoboit Trailway’ which is ten minutes from where we are staying. We elected to walk a side ‘wilderness’ trail the Admiral loop, 5.5 km long. Just under 2 km from the start of the trailway. However we couldn’t understand why the proposed time to complete was 4-5 hours. We know now! It was difficult clambering over tree roots and boulders all the time as well as up and down hill. It all required effort, no easy stroll. Bugs buzzed and bit us even with liberal applications of deet based insect killer. Even though the temperature was now in the mid twenty’s which added to our discomfort. We were rewarded with some beautiful views from the lookouts. It was slow going and I thought the reason Heather wanted me to go ahead was that she wanted to walk at her pace. Not so, she didn’t want to see any snake action. I nearly trod on four of them, a couple between three and four foot long the first and last ones really surprised me. Defiantly knackered by the end. Took us just over 5 hours then a slow walk back down the trailway but we did it.Read more

  • Stephen FrenchCanada.The Eastern bit.Traveler
    Martinique beach longest in the area

    Surprising Scotia

    July 4, 2019 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    This part of Nova Scotia is pretty as a picture. The forested countryside undulates and then open’s out to clearing’s where colourful houses have spectacular views over lakes. These lakes lead towards inlets and the sea. It’s difficult to stop your eyes straying when driving down the roads that follow the coastline towards the Atlantic. We pass fishing boats tied up to stone jetty’s that are full of traps. Lobster is the main catch. All this within ten minutes of where we are staying. The weather can be fickle. As I took some photos we watched the fog roll in at speed. Two minutes up the road we were back in blazing sunshine and sunglasses.Read more

  • Stephen FrenchCanada.The Eastern bit.Traveler

    Victim of its own prittiness.

    July 5, 2019 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    A little further afield from where we are staying is Peggy’s cove. A magnet for us tourists. Such a little place overwhelmed by motorcycles, RV’s, cars and coaches. All looking for places to park. Then we take a photo, have an ice cream or a lobster roll and move on to the next picturesque spot. Large rock platforms are cut into by the creek where fisherman’s huts cling to the waters edge. Judging by the lack of development and a scene out of the nineteenth century this area must be subject to some serious planning regulations and house buying caveats. The coaches went one way and we moved on to Mahone bay. One of a number of communities further along the coast with wooden houses some over a hundred and fifty years old embellished with ornate verandas that lead down to the shoreline. The UK doesn’t have a monopoly on twee, rustic and watery settings.Read more

  • Stephen FrenchCanada.The Eastern bit.Traveler

    Looks like we're walking on water

    July 6, 2019 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Plucked up courage and went for another walk. As it was my birthday, we added a bit of geocaching as well. The Salt Marsh trail is another disused railway converted to a trail, in fact it’s part of the same one that the Musquodoboit trailway uses. The trail is different, it rests on a stone causeway that splits the sea in two. We walked the nine kilometres across Cole harbour and back picking up caches as we went. Interesting to see water both sides of the trail. When this was constructed a hundred years ago there was no thought about the environmental impact a stretch of trackbed would have on tidal flow and the funnelling of the water through a couple of bridges. We stood on one and watched the speed of the incoming tide also the difference in height of the water from one side to the other is quite visible. However the cormorants are happy judging by the fish they were catching nearby. After walking back to the car we drove to our seventh brewery. ‘Upstreet’ and had beer and BBQ.Read more

  • Stephen FrenchCanada.The Eastern bit.Traveler

    Some people!

    July 7, 2019 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Last full day in Nova Scotia and we were at a loose end though the day was shaping up to be a peach weather wise. Following a bit of googling we were on our way to a kite festival in the grounds that surround Halifax fort. After parking the car, we walked by government house, the home of the queens representative in Nova Scotia. Just as the Union flag was being raised. Seeing the sign for free tours in we went! While waiting for it to start this numpty walked in protesting about stolen land and the riches the monarchy had gained by exploiting Canada. The man in his early twenties was either stoned or required some psychiatric help. He was ejected by the lady security officer who incidentally had seen service in the UK with the police at Redditch near Birmingham. The tour was short but did give a little peek into the opulence of the governors mansion as well as some lovely displays of 200 years of history. At 1 o’clock we stepped outside to watch the changing of the guard. Guess what? up jumped that numpty again. Not the best idea to mouth off in front of a couple of guards with bayonets drawn. After being ignored and the small ceremony over he disappeared into the streets of Halifax trying to find someone else to preach to. The locals on our tour apologised and said he wasn’t representative of their nation. I think that was obvious.

    Off we went to see the kites. We had a pleasant stroll amongst the people trying to and some succeeding in getting their colourful objects into the air. That event wasn’t a grand affair so on we trudged and found ourselves at the Garrison brewery. I had a flight of four tasters of different beers. It should have been five but Heather wanted to try one called ‘pucker up’ which was flavoured with pomegranate and cranberry! Close by is Halifax railway station, couldn’t afford to let that one go by. Marvellous concourse and booking hall which serves the three trains a week that leave the station and take twenty two hours to get to Montreal. Obviously the station staff have a lot of down time. That was our nothing day.    Read more

  • Stephen FrenchCanada.The Eastern bit.Traveler

    Back to school!

    July 9, 2019 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    This is the school house and our apartment is on the first floor, furthest four windows. Built in 1907, only us here at night. During the day a charity that deals with sustainable forestry management is resident on the ground floor. Certainly a character building with original features and a slap of paint on top. The wooden floors catch your eye and the smell definitely reminds you of school days. Sackville is small town Canada. The centre has plenty of closed down shops and there’s just not enough money to make the place pretty though it could be. We turned a corner and heard singing. In a small park on a bandstand were escapees from the local high security care home giving a concert. I don’t know what there combined ages are but it would be a lot. Two Guitars, a fiddle and keyboards. Playing country and Western songs with a singer. Shouldn’t mock it was live, just.

    Ten minutes out of town is Fort Beausejour. Strategically placed on the border between the French Acadians and the English settlers of Nova Scotia. Couple of quid for a pleasant walk around. It has a Commanding position near the bay of Fundy and laid out in a star shape. The French built it and we the English gave them a whopping and took it over. What more do you want to know?    Read more

  • Stephen FrenchCanada.The Eastern bit.Traveler

    Mud and rocks.

    July 10, 2019 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    An hour or so away from the school house are Hopewell rocks on The bay of Fundy which has the highest tidal range in the world. It beats the Bristol Channel into second place. Due to erosion, rocks some with trees on them have been detached from the reddish cliffs and stand alone like pillars. These pillars are referred to as ‘flowerpots’. Interesting in two ways. Looking at the geological formations for about five minutes and the second trying to get a photo without anyone else in. If I want to look at mud at low tide I can go to Erith. That’s $20 I won’t see again. Last interesting fact the Mary Celeste was built just across the bay.Read more

  • Stephen FrenchCanada.The Eastern bit.Traveler

    Sights, sounds and scent.

    July 11, 2019 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    In the morning we set off for a walk and to pick up some caches on the old railway line that passes next to the school. Heather smothered herself with deet and I said when they start biting I’ll do the same. Got to the first cache in the undergrowth and set off all the mozzies. i was absolutely bitten to pieces by these carnivorous insects. I couldn't apply the deet fast enough. Heather was ok.
    It was another lovely sunny day, the track is very straight and could be thought of as uninteresting. However we loved brushing past the colourful wild flowers that grow beside the track and there’s a shrub with white flowers that has the charming scent. Small yellow birds fly from perch to perch in front of us as if to lead the way. They don’t stay in one place long enough for me to take a picture. The trackbed clings to the edge of the marsh and in places there are no hills or high trees. We look up into a big sky with small fluffy clouds. Smashing to be here and so quiet.    Read more

  • Stephen FrenchCanada.The Eastern bit.Traveler
    The other flag is the New Brundswick flagMombetsu, Hokkaido, Japan

    The largest lobster in the world!

    July 12, 2019 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    It seems to us the only claim to fame the small seaside town of Shediac has is the worlds largest lobster so we had to take a picture or two. But we’ve been somewhere with a bigger crab claw!
    The dominant language around Shediac half an hour away from where we are staying in Sackville is Arcadian French, Sackville is almost exclusively English. It is strange! On the way, outside homes there is an increase in the number of Arcadian flags being flown. A French tricolour with a yellow star on the blue third. We don’t seem to see an English equivalent.Read more

  • Stephen FrenchCanada.The Eastern bit.Traveler
    Its a UNESCO world heritage site. Looks like a quarry.

    Good sights, bad roads.

    July 13, 2019 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    The next day we had an Arthur and Martha day. Driving around looking at sights. Saw a sign ‘Have you seen enough trees yet!’ Yep. We were aiming for the Cap d’Or lighthouse. The further we went along the cape Chignecto peninsular the fewer houses there were. The last five kilometres is on gravel, up and down hill. It’s a bit out of the way. I was slightly disappointed with the lighthouse building as it wasn’t aesthetically pleasing. Just a breeze block square with a red light on top. The views however across the bay of Fundy and the cliffs are very nice. Heather pointed out a pod of dolphins that were frolicking around.
    Then it was back to the car and really badly maintained roads. We stopped at a place called Advocate with a little harbour for lunch then on to another community called Joggins and their fossil centre. There was a half hour guided tour of the beach as well as the learning stuff inside the centre. The fossils aren’t big or impressive mainly trees and splats of ancient shit turned to stone. It was all done very well and interesting.    Read more

  • Stephen FrenchCanada.The Eastern bit.Traveler
    Not this one. This was close to Sackville
    Just a random photo on the wayThe first one went down tooo quick.

    Amusing.

    July 15, 2019 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Sackville to Levis 488 miles, 2975 miles travelled.

    It was a day of travelling, we drove from one end of New Brunswick to the other and then some way into Quebec. Heather was on moose watch. There were plenty of signs indicating they were about but no real moose were seen, much to her dismay. After a good few hours we arrived at Levis a town on the St Lawrence river opposite Quebec City. Yea! found another micro brewery.

    To amuse ourselves we took note of some towns on the way and their claim to fame;
    Floranceville: The French fry capital of the world.
    Hartland: Home of the worlds longest covered bridge.
    Nackawic: Home of the worlds largest axe
    New Maryland: Scene of the last fatal duel in New Brunswick,
    the local pub sells ‘shot chicken’!
    And
    St Louis-du-Ha! Ha!
    Because the name is funny.    Read more

  • Stephen FrenchCanada.The Eastern bit.Traveler
    Last poutine before the airport.

    Canada, thats it!

    July 16, 2019 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    We took the ferry across the St Lawrence which takes about ten minutes. It’s surprising how quickly the river flows at this point. As we get closer to the Quebec side a feature, the chateau Frontenac dominates the surrounding city from its hilly position. It’s just a hotel! We did go in but got fed up with the endless corridors. Then we explored the old town with all the other the Chinese and Americans and have to say it is very pretty. Halfway through the afternoon it started raining. We got absolutely drenched before we got back to the Airbnb in Levis which is lovely.

    Last day in Canada and we had time on our hands and Montmorency falls are just outside the city. I tried to book ziplining across them even though I wasn’t insured! It was fully booked or that what we thought. On arrival we found all the park employees on strike and protesting outside the entrance. We were stuck in a queue of traffic and they were blowing vuvuzelas a lot. God they are annoying. Walked in, took some photos then drove to Montreal and the airport and sadly home.
    3213 miles traveled.    Read more

    Trip end
    July 18, 2019
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