• Marcia Medford
  • Marcia Medford

Camino Frances

I will be walking along an ancient pilgrimage route, the Camino de Santiago, from St. Jean Pied de Port in France across Spain to the city of Santiago de Compostela. Then onward to the coast, for a total distance of about 540 miles. Yikes! Read more
  • Trip start
    May 22, 2023
  • Bizkareta, Spain

    May 30, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    I had a short day today, only 7 miles. I should have planned to go farther, but I guess my knee could use a rest.

  • Akarreta, Spain

    May 31, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    I’m at the Hotel Akarreta, which is the only business in town. It’s about 300 years old and has been restored beautifully.

  • Los Arcos

    June 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    Stopped here for the night. After coming upon fiestas in the last couple of towns, this is a nice quiet place to stay.

  • Burgos

    June 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    I had to stop walking in Atapuerca, due to a knee problem. I took the bus to Burgos, where I spent 4 nights in a campground cabin. It was a nice place to rest and recuperate, but food was very limited. So, I have moved to a hotel downtown, with a view of the cathedral.Read more

  • Leon

    June 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 72 °F

    I spent a couple of nights in the small town of Carrion de Los Condes, where I stayed in a renovated monastery, the Hotel Real Monasterio de San Zoilo. Not being able to walk very far, I was glad that they had a museum in part of the building.

    Now I’m in Leon, which is known for its cathedral, which has 133 stained glass windows. I also toured Casa Botines, a textile factory and showroom that was designed by Gaudi. It’s now a museum about Gaudi and his works. It also houses an excellent art museum. It has a room full of Dali creations. He was commissioned by the Italian government to illustrate Dante’s Divine Comedy.
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  • Barcelona

    June 30, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    My knee was feeling a little better, so I decided to go to Barcelona for some serious sightseeing! I was able to use their Hop On/ Hop Off bus to get close to the places I wanted to see. Most of these places were buildings designed by Gaudi. The Sagrada Familia was more amazing to me than any of the other cathedrals I have seen. Construction has been going on for over 100 years. I would like to see it when complete, but nobody knows when that will be. They had said it would be finished in 2026, which will be 100 years since Gaudi died. But Covid put them behind schedule.

    I toured a couple of houses by Gaudi and my advice to anyone who wants to go is to pay the extra 10 euros for the before-hours tour. You’ll be able to take pictures without people in them. These places are very crowded otherwise.
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  • Muxia

    July 2, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 66 °F

    After leaving Barcelona, I traveled to Finisterre on the northwest coast. I spent 2 nights there, walking to the lighthouse for the sunset on the first night. I did a some geocaching while I was there. One of the caches required a picture of me with the 0 km marker and with the lighthouse in the background. The next day, I walked the length of Langosteira Beach.

    The next morning, I started out on the 18-mile walk to Muxia. It was a delightful walk through forests and small villages, with an occasional ocean view. I stopped in the small town of Lires for the night. After lunch, I walked along an estuary to the beach, where I had a cold beer at the beach bar before heading back to town. It was the 4th of July, but I didn’t meet any other Americans all day. When I went out for dessert, there was a young American man waiting tables, so I wished him a happy 4th.

    I continued my walk the next day and arrived in Muxia just in time to check in at the hotel. It’s a really nice hotel overlooking the beach. I did a lot of walking over the next couple of days, including up to their lighthouse and another 0 km marker. I also found 5 geocaches while there. There are signs around the peninsula telling all about the gooseneck barnacle harvesting.
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  • Arrived in Leon

    June 12, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    I finally finished walking across the Meseta. There have been a few memorable experiences. In Carrion de lis Condes. I stayed at the albergue run by the “singing nuns”. It is next door to the Iglesia Santa Maria. In the evening, they sang songs for us, some of which we knew. We had hand-outs with the lyrics so that we could sing along. Afterwards, there was a short mass snd then a pilgrim blessing.

    The next day, I came across a couple of guys who had set up a shade tent, table, and chairs beside the trail. They were giving away snacks, drinks, first aid supplies, sunscreen and many other items. They would not accept donations. They’re like the “trail angels” along the Appalachian Trail. One of them, Adrian, had just been at a retreat hosted by Caminotellers, the folks that interviewed me last year for Youtube. We’re all having lunch together tomorrow here in Leon.
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  • Into the mountains

    June 15, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    I’ve been walking through increasingly hilly terrain, a big change from the Meseta. There was a wonderful “hippie oasis” along the way, called El Jardin de Alma. They had a huge assortment of teas, coffee, juices, and snacks, all on a donation basis. I sliced a couple of oranges and put them through the squeezer. Almost everyone who came by stopped for a while.

    I spent a night in Astorga, where I toured the Gaudi Palace. In addition to his interesting architecture, there were many rooms of religious art.

    I’m in Foncebadon tonight, after walking in a light rain for a couple of hours. It’s a tiny town with one street and many albergues. Tomorrow I will continue to climb to Cruz de Ferro (Iron Cross). It is a tradition to bring a small stone from home to leave at the foot of the cross, thereby leaving a burden behind. Your burden could be any negative emotion you’re carrying, whether it be guilt, regret, fear, grief, etc. or it could be in memory of lost loved ones.
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  • Galicia!

    June 21, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    I reached Sarria a couple of days ago. That’s the town where 80% of pilgrims start their walk. In order to get the Compostela (certificate), it’s only required that you walk the last 100 kilometers. Sarria, at 115 kilometers, is the closest city to that mark. There are more people on the trail now.Read more

    Trip end
    July 10, 2023