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Camino

agosto - septiembre 2017
  • Elizabeth Cuddy
Una aventura de 27 días de Elizabeth Leer más
  • Elizabeth Cuddy

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  • España España
  • Francia Francia
  • Irlanda Irlanda
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  • 3,6kkilómetros recorridos
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  • Vuelo2.303kilómetros
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  • 21huellas
  • 27días
  • 47fotos
  • 20Me gusta
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  • Elizabeth CuddyElizabeth CuddyCamino

    At the airport

    29 de agosto de 2017, Irlanda ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    I am happy that my bag weighed 7.4 kgs. I wish it was 10% of my bodyweight.
    I am excited and a little nervous, and feeling very grateful to be heading off on this three week wander in Spain. Camino del Norte awaits.Leer más

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  • Elizabeth CuddyElizabeth CuddyCamino

    Biarritz

    29 de agosto de 2017, Francia ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Easy 1 euro bus trip from airport to hotel.
    Off to check things out down at the beach, and face the challenge of eating in a restaurant alone. That will be a big hurdle to get over. Maybe I will live on croissants.Leer más

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  • Elizabeth CuddyElizabeth CuddyCamino

    Walkabout

    30 de agosto de 2017, Francia ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    Observations from my wanderings today:
    Mostly white people, mostly French. White clothes seem to be a thing, lace is popular.
    Basque cakes are lovely, basque strawberries from the market were superb.
    There are no fast food, Indian, falafel or Chinese takeaways. Did not see an Irish bar. No seagulls, few pigeons, loads of dogs and like Paris, loads of dog crap on the ground.
    I wish I could speak even a little French.
    I had two swims. The water is clear and warm. The sand is very coarse. I did not go into a restaurant, only a coffee shop.    Leer más

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  • Elizabeth CuddyElizabeth CuddyCamino

    Bayonne

    31 de agosto de 2017, Francia ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Short bus trip to be a tourist in this lovely city and also to get my Camino passport stamped.
    Big day. I ate in a restaurant, alone, which was a huge hurdle for me to get over. I had a glass of wine to celebrate. There was some kind of chop on the plate. I took a few bites but that was it. It was too salty and the child at the table beside me was eating an essentially raw hamburger. Meat on a plate, no bun no nothing, just blood and a few chips. I had noticed rather rare meat on other plates as I wandered around.
    Medieval town, Basque culture and flags and language. Quite lovely.    Leer más

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  • Elizabeth CuddyElizabeth CuddyCamino

    Espana . Me Gusta.

    1 de septiembre de 2017, España ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    I rook the train from Biarritz to Hendaye, the last town in France, then I crosses the bridge into Spain. I wandered about in Irun trying to look like I knew where I was going. Then I decided I may be going the wrong way cause a fella with a backpack passes me. About face and follow him! I got my bearings bitten hung about the town as I was too early for the hostel.
    I feel much better here in Spain because I can communicate.
    Dinner was organic vegan, the only option. I sat with 5 German women and that was not a light and lively affair. Staid would be more the word. Persistent rain and cool temp. I am glad I am here. Following through on my wish, I am happy about that.
    Feet appreciate the new shoes purchased. I did manage to cut one toenail too far back, so that is irritating, literally and figuratively.    Leer más

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  • Elizabeth CuddyElizabeth CuddyCamino

    Walk to San Sebastián.

    2 de septiembre de 2017, España ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    I got up at 6 and left the hostel at 7.05. It was not raining and quite cool. I felt confident enough though lots of "what ifs" went through my mind last night.
    Most of the town was walking up the first hill to go to a mass in the Santuario . From there I briefly chatted with a young Polish man who had walked from Poland, 90 days,, and counting.
    We took the advice of two old men, to follow the left arrow, and then I got off track. I was not worried, at first, as I headed for the water., seeing that it is a coastal walk, I deduced. Bad choice, down, down and down the trail I went,.oops, big cliff, so up, up, up I went. Phew, then I was walking along a road and a man pulled over and said what are you doing walking here. Lost says I, lost says he. He set me on the path, which was just above the road, and it turned out I was back on track after an extra 2 hours of up and down a pretty long and rather steep hill. The walking sticks in the garage in Lincoln would be handy. . I felt much better seeing yellow arrows, let me tell you., and I kept tellinh myself that too, as I got a bit stressed when I was off track. I told myself to remember that they say the Camino takes care and provides. I am so glad to be able to talk, and ask for directions in Spanish. .
    The cliff walk was very scenic but when I got to the part where there was cables in the rocks to hold on too cause it was steep, I had a meltdown. I got stuck on grandfather mountain in SC many years ago, relating to a steep rock and cable. At that time I was terrified, so this time I was too. I did not appreciate the beauty of that part. I just put one foot in front of the other and went between fear, anger and telling.myself to just do it. So I did, and then had a tortilla and a coffee and a magnum. Ice cream bar in the little harbor. Rejuvenated and feeling fresh again, even though I had been walking for 6 hours, I set off for San Sebastián. I thought it was really far. I asked a walker who was at a bench on the prom if this was indeed San Sebastián. "Oui" he responded and then spoke at length to me in French. Hmm, says I, this is Spain now, so I am not as bothered that I do not understand. He had no English so we did a couple of Japanese type bows and I hit the beach. I was so happy to know I had a room booked, as that is the next leap of faith for me, to just walk and get a room when I am tired.
    After all that, going in to a bar full of people, ordering pinxtos and vino tinto was a piece of cake.
    .    Leer más

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  • Elizabeth CuddyElizabeth CuddyCamino
    1

    Tourist day

    3 de septiembre de 2017, España ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Qthings I learned in San Sebastián today, which may be coloured rosy by warm sunshine and a magnificent setting :
    A large sugar raised bun partially sliced and filled with 3 inches of cream, along with "un cafe con leche" is a perfectly acceptable way to start the day.
    Going to the beach, with just a towel, no coolers, no
    beach equipment, no chairs etc seems the best and easiest way to go. You don't even need your bikini top,, no matter your age. (,however, I think, not good for the over 30 and up)
    People queue up to bet on boat races, coastal town against each other.
    Each town brings their little band, they March about.
    The dress is alive and well, across all generations, well not the teen girls. Their arse cheeks hang out of mini cut off shorts. .
    When you want to. "dar un paseo", on the promenade and the Nana or Grandpa can't walk then they go in a wheelchair.
    Cell phones are not generally visible.
    People talk to each other.
    It is not dark until 8.35 so you can go for a swim at what is called one of the best urban beaches.
    Middle school boys half bury a yoga ball in the sand, run and bounce off it and somersault or flip,. (, good idea).
    College students have "cidra", pouring contests. They hold bottle high, glass low, then pour and hope it hits the target. Hence the streets are wet and sticky as the aim gets worse after each bottle.
    If you go to two pinxtos bars and have two glasses of wine, 3 euro each, in quick succession, then you are glad there is a cathedral on the, same street as your hotel, so you can find it. (, 2glasses is max for me).
    People here have seem to enjoy the day, family is important.
    The coffee is good.
    The wine is cheap.
    Cidra tastes awful, but it is really cheap.
    I really like this city.
    Why does no one carve, paint or sculpt a pigeon?    Leer más

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  • Elizabeth CuddyElizabeth CuddyCamino

    Walkingn to Getaria, Gipuzkoa in Basque.

    4 de septiembre de 2017, España ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Left San Sebastián at sunrise and enjoyed a beautiful walk along the coast to a small village called Getaria. Not unlike the west coast of Ireland, landscape wise. However, grapevines and sheep with bells and medieval villages are not like Ireland.
    I walked with a rather eccentric English man, well being English is an impediment in and off itself. However he is a gardener so we had a shared interest. He has never driven, has no cell phone and has no pets. I did not ask any personal questions except for his name after about an hour.
    I am a dab hand at going into bars and ordering pinxtos and tonight I drank Txacoli, which is a local wine. There are lots of vineyards here. It cost 1.90 euros a glass, so under $1.85. Tasted good too. Cidra is only 90 cent but that "should be put back in the horse", as my Dad used to say.
    A swim before dinner then off to my bunk bed, one of 40 in a full mixed dorm. 12 euro a night, without sheets. Thank goodness cousin Nuala gave me sleeping bag and liner.
    It was a really "Buenos Camino" today.
    I can not decipher the Basque language but everyone speaks Spanish also.    Leer más

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  • Elizabeth CuddyElizabeth CuddyCamino

    Easy walking day to Deba

    5 de septiembre de 2017, España ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    I challenged myself last night and slept in a top bunk. I was always afraid I would fall out. Luckily that was an unwarranted fear but I should have practiced getting out as I worried about putting my foot on the head of the elderly(, moreso than me even) man who was in the bottom bunk.
    I eventually just threw caution to the wind and managed to get off the bed and onto the floor without incident.
    I set out at 7, just as it was beginning to get bright. I had put my backpack outside to pack up so as not to wake anyone. I went inside to check my space and when I went back out eccentric English bloke was sitting beside my bag looking to me like a bloody stray dog. I thought this was your pack says he. Isaid 'goodbye', and headed out.
    The walk was beautiful, up and down hills, through woods and past farms and grapevines. I continue to pick and eat blackberries, which are mostly hard and sour. I wonder how many days I will do that before I learn to pass them by.
    The peaches here are big and sweet and juicy and best of all, cheap.
    I got to the hostel at 1.00 pm. 5 euro for the bunk. It is in the train station, second floor. I wonder how many trains will zip past at night.
    I had the menu del Dia for lunch, 11. 50 euro. Soup fresh salmon, flan and a bottle of wine. A bottle full, for just me! I maxed out at 2.5 glasses. I was taken aback that the salmon was on the bone. I immediately thought of Kathleen McElhinney, my friend in school in Glasgow
    Her dad chocked on a fishbone and died. I remember them carrying his coffin out of the flat and down to the church. I thought to myself ', I can eat that fish I might die like he did.' Well I didn't fall out of the bunk or choke on the fish. Big day all around. A swim, and then a walk about town, which took 5 mins. Now to find a bar to watch some football and eat some pinchos before bunk in in. Bottom this time.    Leer más

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  • Elizabeth CuddyElizabeth CuddyCamino
    1

    Gernika

    7 de septiembre de 2017, España ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Yesterday was a slog day. Rain all day and lots of up and down. Good though, complete silence at some points, really nice. Last night's lodging was a bottom bunk in an old church, donation. I ate dinner with a young woman from Malaysia who grew up in Australia but is studying her masters in Lucerne. We each got a bottle of wine with our dinner, and I beat my record for consumption as we chatted.

    It is still really crowded and we had to sit on the street and wait for the Alberque to open in order to secure a bed. Lots and lots of people walking from all over the place. I have not made any reservations, leaving it to chance which is a big step out of my comfort zone. I walk alone but chat at the end of the day. I try to only speak Spanish, and I talk to townspeople and shop keepers.
    Time really has stood still in some villages. It is so nice. I donot know why those are big bells are around the necks of , cows, sheep and goats, but it is a lovely background sound.
    I went to the peace museum here today, because this village was obliterated by German bombers, at Francois request as he was taking over Spain and the Germans wanted to practice dropping bombs.
    That is why Picasso painted the big mural ", Gernika,"or" Guernica " in Spanish. It is in the museum in Madrid.

    I ate a fresh fig I picked from a tree. A French cyclist took one first and then between French Spanish and English and gestures, for sweet, soft etc. I was able to learn what it was. I also resumed the sour blackberry picking activity which was interrupted by the heavy rain yesterday.
    On to Bilbao tomorrow. I may be a tourist there for a day or two, Gugginheim (sp?) museum and whatever else is on offer.
    I like walking.    Leer más

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