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Carmel CarlsenCarmel Carlsen
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Unable to get to Spain in 2021 to undertake a camino via Del Norte route. I've set my sights on 2023 Read more Sydney, Australia
  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena-part 2
    Day 20

    Day 16: Piacenza- rest day

    5 hours ago in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    First thing, I went to the post office to send back some warm things. I got there just after 9 am and wasn't finished until just before 11:30! What a rigmarole! After that, I checked out some churches, walked through the morning markets, and visited the tourist information office, and Sylvia sorted some accommodation for me - I'd tried to ring the night before, but no one there had any English. Then I had a lovely lunch. The blow for the day came when I went to walk through the modern art gallery, and it was closed. My fault, I should have checked the opening times. So, I went back to my hotel and had a siesta.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena-part 2
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    Day 19

    Day 15: Orio Litta to Piacenza

    May 7 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Last night, I was in Pilgrim accommodation with two French pilgrims who did not share their names - even after I explained that I was Australian (i.e. not British) - their end point is Lucca. I had the second best meal I've had since I've been in Italy that night at the "Sports" bar. It was another great day along the Way today. The section itself was 25.28 km, but about 4 km of that was by a small boat, the "ferry", along the mighty Po river! Almost all of the walking route today was roadside, but thankfully, the first few kms up to the Po river offered an alternative through nice dirt and grass lanes. Just after we, the French women and I, got off the Ferry, two large fallen trees blocked the path (which was raised above the fields below), and we had to climb over and under the trunks and branches to make our way forward! Just after I got through that mess, I saw my first deer! The photo I took is not great, but at least it is something. Not long after that, the rain started again, and the Great Pumpkin was called into service. Piacenza is quite a large place. I will do some exploring tomorrow. According to my guidebook, there are 309 km between Echevennoz (where I started) and Piacenza, and it's 685 km to Rome! I'm getting there.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena-part 2
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    Day 18

    Day 14: Belgioioso to Orio Litta

    May 6 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Wow! What a day! I'm exhausted. Thankfully, there was not as much road walking today, which was a relief. I've come to the conclusion that my replacement boots are not as cushioned as the original pair as my feet are sore every day. I set out early (just before 7 a.m.) as I had a long way to go (31.06 km). I love Italy, I'm so impressed that I could find a cafe open at 6 a.m. I even got a latte this morning. It was a cool and overcast day - perfect walking weather. It did sprinkle, on and off, so it wasn't a problem until about an hour before I got to Orio Litta when the rain would not stop. I caved about 3 km out and put on the Great Pumpkin, and I'm glad I did as the next part of the Way was tall and overgrown vegetation! At least the Great Pumpkin stopped me from getting completely soaked. I saw another coypu today and managed to get a photo. I've been trying to get a photo of the storks, but they are very elusive. Oh, and I saw another castle - I think it's privately owned!
    P.S. I should have mentioned the "Mama Mia" is an actual expression here. I've heard it twice in the last few days - in connection with me being Australian!    Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena-part 2
    22662
    Day 17

    Day 13: Pavia to Belgioioso

    May 5 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    I was lucky enough to find a cafe open at 7 am this morning and was able to have two macchiatos and two croissants before leaving Pavia. The walk today wasn't long (17 km), but the entirety of the Way was almost fully exposed roadside walking. Thankfully, it wasn't a problem for me as though the sun was shining and warm it really wasn't hot. I will admit my feet are a little sore from all that bitumen. I got to Belgioioso just after one pm and am so glad that I had a chance to look around as there is a castle here! I could not get inside as it is being renovated, but the outside was impressive enough. The highlight of my day was going into Sant Michele Arcangelo church, braving the sacristy, and asking the Priest for a "timbro" (stamp) for my credential. Not only did I get a stamp, but he also gave me a holy card. It literally brought tears to my eyes. The VF is a big deal here in Italy. I get shout outs and well wishes everywhere I go.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena-part 2
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    Day 16

    Day 12: Garlasco to Pavia

    May 4 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Another great day of walking (26.68 km). The Way was quite diverse. It started with farmland and canal walking and ended with a combination of riverside (Fuime Ticino) and woodland walking. It's Saturday here and so there were quite a few people about along thee riverside, even some fishermen. I should have mentioned that I've spent the last two nights (Nicorvo and Galasco) with a group of four Italian pilgrims who are walking the VF from Santhià to Santa Cristina. They think it will take them about ten years to complete the whole thing! I also met a French pilgrim, Thomas, who is on his way to Rome and who had actually braved Grand-Saint-Bernard Pass (five metres of snow). He said that the way down from the Pass to the Italian side was terrible and not marked. I am so glad that I didn't attempt it. I also met two Belgians on their bikes. They say it will only take them fifteen days to reach Rome! I saw lots of rabbits today, some ducks, and another coypu (but again, it was too quick for a photo). Finally, the Basilica San Michele Maggiore in Pavia has the best stonework I have ever seen.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena-part 2
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    Day 15

    Day 11: Nicorvo to Garlasco

    May 3 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    The forecast promised rain pretty much all day, and it was raining before 6 am. But as I was leaving town with the church tower bell tolling 8 am, the sky was relatively clear, and it only got better as the day progressed - endong in beautiful sunshine. Today's walk (30.26 km) was very similar to yesterday. Though there did seem to be a lot more trees surrounding the fields and waterways. When I entered the church in Mortara, the organist was practising (video attached)! It was lovely. Then I went on to cause a mild sensation in the fruit shop and also the tobacconist when I told them I was Australian. I saw lots of birds, a frog, some rabbits, and two of what I now know to be Coypu (the thing I thought was a Marmot the other day). One was swimming, and the other was sitting on the bank, but they were too quick for me to get a photo. I'm staying again tonight in "proper" Pilgrim accommodation (another donativo). This time, it is run by the local council.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena-part 2
    2
    Day 14

    Day 10: Vercelli to Nicorvo

    May 2 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    I awoke this morning to heavy rain. Luckily, it was pretty much stopped by the time I left. I still wore the Great Pumpkin as the forecast was for rain all day, which it did on and off. Despite the weather, the walk (26.66 km) was extremely pleasant and over mostly flat terrain. I have never been in an environment where there is so much water - there are water channels and canals (not large ones) everywhere you go. I met another Australian today who is doing the VF on his bike, but he can only do so for two weeks. I'm spending my first night in legitimate pilgrim accommodation, a donativo (Ospitalità Madonna del Patrocinio e San Terenziano)! It has everything a pilgrim could want (except WiFi), and the heater is excellent. There is one other pilgrim here also, but she disappeared soon after I arrived. I'm sure we'll get to chat at dinner as there is only one place to eat in town. Some highlights from the day: walking for ages on a raised road (which gave me a wonderful view) and seeing two darling little two carriage local trains go by.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena-part 2
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    Day 13

    Day 9: Vercelli - rest day

    May 1 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    I've taken my first rest day, and as far as I'm concerned, it's was a day late. I walked five days last year on the VF and then took a rest day, which seemed a little wimpy, so I thought I would see how far I could go this time around before I needed a break and I've come to the conclusion that it's only six days of walking! Vercelli is a terrific place to stop for an extra day - it's a very attractive city. I didn't do a great deal of walking as it was raining, and I wasn't willing to share the Great Pumpkin with this world. It's May Day here, and I was treated to the town band in a square nearby, and the bell tower behind my accommodation tolled the most delightful tune this morning. I then popped into a church (Paul the Apostle) and sat through mass - there was the most beautiful singing; even a hymn I knew! After that, I visited a most beautiful church (Saint Bernardo and Santuaries of our Lady of the sick), the Basilica of Saint Andrea (the first Abbot is recorded at 1226!) and they appear to have a copy of the Magna Carta on display! My last church was the Cathedral of Saint Andrea. I gave up after that as the rain got too heavy.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena-part 2
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    Day 12

    Day 8: Santhià to Vercelli

    April 30 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    The most positive thing I have to say about today is that the terrain was mostly flat and that the weather was terrific. The most appropriate word to use to describe the walk (27.9 km) would be monotonous. At one point, I abandoned the Way and took to the main road so that I could avoid rambling through yet more farmland - which shaved a good few km off the length of the walk (about 30 km). The farm houses along the way were of no structural interest, and you can only take so much of tilled earth fields or water soaked paddocks before you are over them. Funnily enough, I had toyed with the idea of taking the train from Santhià to Vercelli because of how spent I'd been the day before. I'm not saying I wish I had, as there were some real highlights to the day, but I am saying that if you were to take the train, you wouldn't be missing much. I met a really lovely couple in the village of San Germano Vercellese, and while we were chatting in the park, two pilgrims doing the VF in reverse came by. Their end point is Lausanne. Now for the highlights: unbelievably, the church was open this morning before 8 am! I was so glad I checked on my way out of town. Again, I had to help myself to light up the crypt (Saint Stefano), and it was worth seeing. The next two highlights happened when I was walking on the main road: I saw what I believe is a marmot as the tail was thin (I now know this to be a Coypu) swimming in the Naviglia di Ivrea, and I startled a snake in the grass on the roadside! It was about 1/2 a metre in length and may have been a barred grass snake, which is non venomous, but it set my heart pounding! No photos, I'm afraid.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena-part 2
    2
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    Day 11

    Day 7: Viverone to Santhià

    April 29 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    I woke this morning and no rain! What a difference a day makes. There were some clouds, but it was mostly a sunny walk (19.01 km) through woodland, tree lined roads, open roads (dirt, stones and tar), tree bordered fields, even one canal (Canali Cavour), and more serious agricultural properties as I got closer to Santhià. As my accommodation didn't start breakfast until 9:30 am, I was very kindly driven ("no need for a seatbelt") to a pasticceria so that I could eat something in the morning. However, I only had a croissant and coffee for breakfast, and it really made a difference to my stamina, and my daily food supplies couldn't cover the difference. I am exhausted! However, I got into Santhià in the early afternoon, so I made a beeline for my accommodation, and after a refreshing shower and change; I attempted to visit the church. No luck! I couldn't get in! I was disappointed as Saint Agata is the patron Saint of those who have recovered from breast cancer, and apparently, the images of her story are quite compelling. One funny story; I'd washed out my things and put them on the line in the sun. When I went to check on them, my undies were gone! A really lovely lady in the same compound had taken them by mistake! She apologised and invited me for coffee. Which I would have had if I had known the church would be locked! I'm currently sitting outside a bar having a lovely beer. Oh, and a bonus: I got two mandarins, obviously just off the tree, from a little fruit shop as I was walking along. One last thing; I saw a lot of pilgrims today, all going in the opposite direction. I can only assume they are doing the Cammino di Oropa.Read more

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