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- Dag 55
- tirsdag den 31. marts 2020 kl. 13.19
- ☀️ 30 °C
- Højde: 9 m
MexicoOstula18°27’15” N 103°33’26” W
Closest thing to family

Twelve days have passed since the last update. Most of them have been pretty similar in terms of our daily life, despite restrictions finally starting to be imposed.
Food supplies in this town are pretty limited and spread out, so we're heaving to be creative with the set of ingredients that are easy enough to source- tomatoes, potatoes, carrots, cucumber, cilantro, onion, chillies (obviously), avocado (particularly good here).
There's a bread guy who comes by twice a week in his truck, and a couple of ladies selling tamales (chicken, beans, or cheese). One of them is really adorable. She takes our waste from eating fruit for feeding to her pig, and she likes to stop by for a chat and a little nap in the shade before she plods along to the next group.
The bread is surprisingly (for Mexico) pretty decent, so we've been enjoying using that a fair bit.
The main highlights,
- More jackfruit- tacos at night (Dave), followed by burritos served up with scrambled eggs and avocado (Lucas)
- Lucas' Cauliflower and Broccoli battered tacos- Baja fish tacos style. Interesting that rum is an ingredient in the batter. Seriously tasty.
- Vegan Ceviche using dried soy, pineapple, onions, lime cilantro etc. Served on tostadas. Outstanding from Lucas
- Jen's epic Spanish tortilla. As good, if not better than the last, and enough to make our Spanish buddy, Sebastian, extremely happy.
- Jen's pizza breads. Fantastic use of that good bread. Covered in bravas sauce, asadero cheese and fresh pineapple.
- Stuffed poblanos, as usual. Reliable dish for keeping folks happy from me.
- Patatas bravas with home made garlic mayo and tomato paprika sauce. Designed to build on Jen's tortilla to give Sebastian and Melanie a taste of their home in Spain. I enjoyed seeing Melanie, who is a French native, get excited at having home made mayo. I could hardly do otherwise with a French lady in company!
- Lentil, potato and carrot curry, with lime cilantro yoghurt, pickled onions, lime pickle, onion bahjis, and all done in DIY wraps. This was my contribution to last night. A lot of effort in 34°c with all the it's going, deep fat frying and the oven on. Worth it though.
- Roasted aubergine, pepper and tomato pasta, and a treat of mushroom pasta for Jen. The roasted veggie pasta is becoming something that I think I can build on.
Honestly, there hasn't been a single shoddy meal. Lucas is a great cook, everything he's done has been super tasty and he manages it without the effort I end up having to put into some of my food. Anything Jen knocks out is always on the money, and I'm happy with my contribution to things.
We've been eating in the restaurant in the campsite a couple of times. Seafood is obviously their thing here, but we've not been feeling it too much, so we've had their chicken Milanese burger, or their beef burger. Both super fresh and tasty.
We'll be eating at one of the other restaurants which is meant to do an epic prawn burger, freshly made to order, as well as some top drawer fish tacos.
Central to garnishing many of our dishes has been chipotle mayo and my green sauce which seems to find it's way onto everything. It is damn good.
But the most important thing has been how mealtimes have brought people together, including our friends Melanie and Sebastian, a Spanish/French couple from along the camp; our other neighbours Mitchell and Linda (Mexican/Swedish), and Eddie, a friend of Mel and Sebas, who is from the US.
Last night we all sat down for the first time together and chowed down on my Indian feast. Suffice to say it went down well. Eddie remarked that it was the best food he's eaten on his trip so far, so that was lovely to hear. It was some new flavours for Lucas who also seemed to enjoy it, but really, the best thing was just sitting down together, talking, laughing and forgetting about the subject which has dominated points of our time here. Mealtimes are feeling like family occasions. When the people are this nice, the setting this beautiful, and the food this good, it serves to remind us how very lucky we are to be here in this situation.
Sebas and Melanie will unfortunately be leaving for home shortly, so we'll lose a key part of the group. Be for they go, I think we'll all go out for dinner together and enjoy some local food and company.
It looks like we may be here for some time yet. I look forward to seeing what we get around to cooking. I've got a stack of ideas bubbling away and precious little else to be doing with my time, so I'll plan to get back to being regular with updating this with the highlights.
Maybe I'll get around to that interview with Lucas, and maybe the others, too. Why not?Læs mere
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- Dag 43
- torsdag den 19. marts 2020 kl. 12.56
- ☀️ 29 °C
- Højde: 9 m
MexicoOstula18°27’15” N 103°33’26” W
Corona Transition

Beach cooking whilst the storm passes- hopefully
We spent a few days around the city of Puerto Vallarta, but as things started to build around the whole Corona Virus situation, we figured the responsible thing to do was get to a quiet beach camp, load up on veggies, and see how the situation develops. The standout eats in Puerto Vallarta were some top drawer street tacos- Pastor and also chorizo- maybe equal best we've had to date. The pineapple on the pastor was slowly cooking away on top of the kebab spike, and the guy just niftily flipped a slice off with his cutting knife.
We also had barbacoa - a lamb dish, traditionally cooked underground in banana leaves, and served with the broth on the side. We had ours in quesadillas. Tasty stuff.
Before we set off, we had bought a jackfruit- as in, a whole one- as the pieces we bought were the ripe fruit which is seemingly no good as a meat replacement. What we didn't get told about when asking about the prep was what happens when you try to cut the thing. Basically, everything gets covered in glue! It excretes a natural latex which meant everything was sticking to our hands- neither Lucas or I got a photo because it was so much of a mess that it was somewhat dominating the experience. We've since learned some things we should do next time.
After cutting it all up, removing the seeds - which are the only part the locals eat - I boiled it and then added it to a base of my BBQ sauce and some fried onions, garlic and peppers. Alongside some of Jen's tremendous quesadillas with leftover veggie chilli, the jackfruit got slapped on tacos with chipotle mayo, pineapple, pickled habaneros, tomato and onion. It was a pretty decent first attempt, and it made an absolute ton of the stuff- $4 worth of the fruit made enough to last us about a week of eating, and it looks like it'll freeze well.
The following day, we had a ten hour drive South to get where we are now at La Ticla in Michoacan. Lucas bought a whole bunch of veg, as did we, so we're loaded up and enjoying cooking by the beach.
We've munched our way through some more.of the jackfruit, which Lucas cooled down further eith a bunch of tomatoes and garlic, making it much richer- that was brunch yesterday on some bread with chipotle coleslaw- the boy can cook, so I'm looking forward to learning more from him.
Jen made a new dish of Persian lentils, which were really good. Lentils, carrots, celery, tomato, garlic, mushrooms and some spices, all boiled down until soft. Still to be made are: another Spanish tortilla from Jen; jackfruit stuffed poblanos; roasted tomato, pepper and aubergine pasta sauce; green sauce, and whatever Lucas has in mind. We may be here a while, so it's good we have a decent supply to save us having to go into town When we're trying to keep social contact minimal.
Whilst we're hunkered down, I plan to interview Lucas about his life and food. It should make an interesting discussion- an Argetinian who is veggie is an unusual find. It's been great hanging out with someone who has some things I can learn from, so the next week or so cooking with him should be both interesting and productive.
So, we might be on lock-down, but we're on the beach with our buddy, the sun, and plenty of delicious food to be made as we let the days slip by.Læs mere
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- Dag 35
- onsdag den 11. marts 2020 kl. 23.52
- ☁️ 22 °C
- Højde: 26 m
MexicoEstero San Lucas21°2’49” N 105°14’37” W
Knee deep in love

A blistering start to food on the mainland.
Despite the tangible impact of over 300 sand fly bites between Jen and I, acquired in our last days of Baja- think something like the Scottish midge, but a few times more itchy - we're still managing to enjoy our time, especially on the food front.
Crossing the Sea of Cortez has resulted in a real shift in climate to much more humid conditions and a few extra degrees on the thermometer. Deserts are gone, replaced with lush countryside. Immediately, the palate of ingredients has changed, most notable is likely the jackfruit- more to follow on that shortly.
The food on the ferry wasn't up to much as was expected, but it was free and, more importantly, it was an opportunity to sit with some truckers, say hello and exchange the customary 'buen provecho', followed by a comforting and respectful silence as we all ate. I'm proud that we take these moments more than we once would have. This is where the substance of eating is. Watching people, their relationship with food and trying to think about their lives interests me greatly.
Earlier, whilst waiting on boarding, a Mexican biker guy came up asking if we had some food that we could give him for his wife, so we offered what we had and refused his proposal to give us money. The next morning, as we neared our destination of Mazatlàn, we spoke with him and his family some more, exchanging details in the process, so now we are invited to stay with Jessie and his biker family near Guadalajara when we get there. My heart exploded even more when he said that he would show us how to cook their food. Surely, this is meant to be my first real opportubity to interview someone for a deeper insight into food through the lives of the people whose families have handed down tradition through them. I can't wait. I was buzzing for hours after that. It's enough of a privilege just to exchange conversation with people, but to be welcomed into their home after what, in some other countries, would have just been a casual exchange, fills me with so much love that I can't really find words. This is what travel can do and, combined with food, it is a vehicle for connection in a simple but powerful form which is really the thing that matters most to us about a journey like this.
After arriving in Mazatlàn, we pushed South pretty quickly as we had some ground to cover. We stopped in a small town on our way to try to find water, but that mission soon got dropped in favour of trying one of the numerous local food joints, landing the first Pollo Asado of the trip. Order (thankfully) restored. I have just one photo. I was so immersed in the experience of watching the guys do their thing that I forgot to take any action shots. I also had a little kid, José, who I'd befriended in the car park, serving as a heartwarming distraction. Thinking about him and his twelve siblings certainly made me think about the real value of such a simple meal that we had ordered.
The chicken? Oh, the chicken. Cooked with years of skill and love. Somehow, perfectly cooked throughout each part, and seasoned right on the button. Served up with a little salad and some red sauce for a smidge over $5 for one- and that was the Gringo price- it was a welcomed treat. Although, eating this piping hot lunch in 30°c in the supermarket car park was not so pleasant. There was enough left to form some tasty little tacos with my chipotle mayo and green sauce for dinner. Tremendous.
So the trip has thankfully been saved thanks to finally indulging in Polls Asado for the first time in Mexico.
This morning, we awoke in our camp spot - the car park of a petrol station, as is the way when on a highway push - and got ready for the road down towards Puerto Vallarta. Whilst refilling on fuel, a lady in the forecourt offered us some (still warm) cornbread. They like to eat it with milk, she said. We had one sniff at it and ordered another slab. At a buck a pop, it was a steal. It barely lasted the journey, saved only by the distraction of the return of roadside vendors. After passing a few, it became too much to say no any more. This is a fundamental point of this second phase of our trip- to stop driving past opportunities to connect and to eat proper, local things.
The tropical conditions are yielding fruit on a totally different level to Baja. We stopped to visit a stall where the old ladies welcomed us with hugs and an introduction to their finest produce. We bought a huge tub of insanely good honey ($1.50???!!!), fresh jackfruit pods ($0.50), and these coconut cake things, for which I forget the name now- basically fresh coconut shreds cooked in condensed milk, and solidified back into a sort of cake- this shit will blow your fucking mind, it's so good. Four of those cost about $0.50 also. Patrick and Susie bought some banana bread, also. What a wonderful stop filling our bellies and our hearts. The coco treats didn't last the next segment of the journey. The honey, well...that'll just be getting lathered on everything- I wonder maybe with some good fresh cheese, or just in yoghurt. And tea. Hmmm. And the jackfruit? Well, that stuff is going to be turned into some veggie tacos on another level. As many veggie folks will know, jackfruit turns into a texture similar to pulled pork. I'm going to try a few different variants with this, but first stop is to use up some leftover BBQ sauce from last week - it keeps well - to make some BBQ pulled jackfruit, with which I hope to make a pastor sauce, pineapple salsa and some pickles. I'm salivating as I write this.
Moving on down the road, floating on a coconut cloud, and mind racing with all that is going to be food-wise in this climate, we found ourselves in a small town to meet a friend of a friend of a friend. We stopped for some lunch first- our friend, Beto, showed us to a place where we could get into some proper local and homely grub. Unfortunately, from my selfish perspective, the consensus was for more familiar dishes, I.e. tacos, so we moved on. Before leaving, I didn't manage to understand much of what the three lunch dishes on offer really were, other than a beef caldo- like boiled meat in a broth with chunky veg. I just wanted to try something of the place, but it'll have to wait.
Across the street, we found a taco joint. BBQ grill out front, and then a big pot with the meat- from pork leg, through to offal, and skin and the like, all sitting on the pork fat in which it's cooked slowly. We all played a little safe, going for Carnitas which omit the likes of Buche (stomach) and Surtido (Carnitas with offal, skin and various other bits). We all had tacos, except Susie, who opted for a quesadilla with carnitas ans cheese.This wasn't a tourist town, so it was the real deal. The trimmings were the standard assembly- tomato salsa, red and green salsas, onions etc. What a treat to be served up honest food by these warm people, including the little rockstar kiddo, in such a perfectly simple setting.
Sometimes when you watch a food documentary, it's maybe difficult to appreciate fully the essence of something. The food can seem a bit simple or rough. But, when you're in it; in the place where it belongs, and with the people whose lives are immersed in it one way or another, whether it's making it, supplying it, or eating it, we are given an opportunity to look directly into the soul of a place, because food remains such an important part in everyday life. Without exaggeration, food is family, and so it receives all of that love which is passed on to people like us who are so privileged to be able to be here. We get to experience not just that food, but all the love that went into it and all the warmth that surrounds the whole experience. For some fleeting moments, we too are part of that family. I hope I never take for granted how lucky we are.Læs mere
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- Dag 33
- mandag den 9. marts 2020 kl. 11.35
- ☁️ 22 °C
- Højde: 6 m
MexicoPlaya Pichilingue24°16’42” N 110°19’44” W
Bossing the Leftovers

Making the most of our spare ingredients, and sharing some food with new friends- at Balandra once again!
As we're due to cross to the mainland today- we're currently sat waiting on getting onto the boat- we needed to take a step back and look at our produce as the customs guys sometimes like to take fresh produce from you to help control the spread of bugs.
From our travels before, we know this sometimes results in some interesting concoctions in a bid not to waste anything. On this occasion, it was complicated slightly further by the fact that I'm trying to control certain elements of my diet in an attempt to limit the effects of what I think is an intestinal parasite that I seem to be carrying- I need a doctor soon to get that confirmed and dealt with.
So, cucumbers and habaneros were pickled; I rustled together a great pasta sauce with tomatoes, aubergine, onion and oregano, blitzed; green tomatoes were turned into some green sauce, although I bloody well burned the tomatoes so the recovery mission resulted in a smaller portion than planned. I needed up the coriander content in the green sauce as well to use what I could of what I had left of that, the result being pretty good, actually. Lastly, leftover chipotle chillies blitzed with some mayonaise- I didn't make my own mayo, as I wanted the pasteurized bottled stuff so it'll last.
Jen made us a bunch of 'vannini' with asadero cheese with a lemon and oregano olive oil marinade- a take on a BBQ halloumi dish I used to do at home- all that stuffed in the tortilla with fresh tomato and heated in a non-stick was a delight.
Lastly, Jen put her skills to work once more to knock out easily the best Spanish Tortilla that we've ever made. Our previous attempt using our new cast iron skillet resulted in it sticking- the pan needs further use with easier foods before it'll really turn as non stick as you hope for. So this time, she used a non-stick frying pan, and altered the recipe to cook the potatoes in a full cup of olive oil first. She tweaked the recipe to include some white onion, and boom! What a result. She was so (deservedly) pleased. We've been munching it with the pasta sauce I made and some good old British HP Sauce. The Spaniards would likely slaughter us for such an offensive act, but screw it. Why not?!
Our other notable story on the food front was when Thom and Madi came to visit- our friends, Patrick and Susie, had met then whilst a walk at Balandra. They came and hung out for a while and, seeing as Susie was assembling some leftover veggie burgers anyway, we offered to defrost some more and feed the guys, also. Madi is Celiac, so couldn't have the veggie burger, so instead, she got some tortilla chips with my bean chilli, guac and pick de Gallo. All the food went down really well. It's so nice to spread the love via making happy bellies. It's the one thing I can give people, and it is my pleasure to do so.
So, next stop, Mazatlàn after our 18 hour ferry ride to get over the Sea of Cortez. I'm not sure we'll hang out there- it's a city twice as big as La Paz, so we may well just move on as we don't hear anything about the place that makes it sound like a desirable stop. We'll be pushing down towards the fairly touristic Puerto Vallarta and around, before heading to Guadalajara where I believe we can expect some great food, not least in Taco Fish! We have some contacts who we'll likely be meeting there, so I'm sure we can get the inside track and maybe I can finally start getting under the skin of some real food stories and personal history.Læs mere
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- Dag 31
- lørdag den 7. marts 2020 kl. 08.03
- ⛅ 20 °C
- Højde: 5 m
MexicoLos Azabaches24°20’17” N 110°18’31” W
Taco Fish: The Return

Upping the ante in the institution that is Taco Fish!
Well, I have not yet manages pollo asado here and time is running out, but yesterday, we made a point of hitting Taco Fish once more. Normally, especially when taking people somewhere you've recommended, it's risky to expect your second experience to match your first. It's even rarer for it to exceed, but it did.
Things started well with a lovely old guy in the street offering to watch our vehicles as the street we parked on maybe wasn't the most secure. When we got there, it was packed with locals on their lunch break that they tend to take later here, in Mexico. Jen decided to go for the same order as last time- a fish taco, and a Ceviche tostada. I went for three things- two in there is enough, but I wanted to experience different. I got a fish tacos because it's rude not to, a shrimp taco, and then a taco with a chilli relleno filled with octopus and marlin. Susie and Patrick went for fish and shrimp tacos.
The fish tacos were just on another level- I asked the manager guy what kind of fish it was, and was told Pierna. Not unlike haddock, maybe, for us Brits. So crispy, not at all greasy and, instead of that side of 'chippy' (fish and chip shop, for non-Brits) chips - which we miss dearly - having it in a taco with all of those fresh flavours and textures is a real treat.
The shrimp (camaron) tacos were epic as well, nice firm flesh, and also done in batter. Jen's Ceviche was a winner once more. And that stuffed chilli with the octopus and marlin was something else. I'm often funny with ordering octopus- cooked anything other than perfectly, it is offensive, so it's always a risky move, but once again, the taco format of eating afforded me the opportunity to be wrong with relatively low risk. It really was outstanding. The octopus was like butter. I tried to determine how it had been cooked, but gave up in favour of just getting my food all over my face and groaning with pleasure.
I managed to compose myself a bit better at the garnish bar this time which meant I spotted what I missed last time out- chipotle mayo and sour cream. Sweet Lord. I hardly even took many photos, I was just so immersed in the eating.
When we went to pay, I got chatting to a guy in the queue, Carlos, from Puerto Vallarta. He spoke great English, but I tried to stick to Spanish a sits good practise and I the show of effort makes for a better relationship, especially in those early moments. He gave us the wonderful news that there's another Taco Fish in Guadalajara, where we're headed soon! He also gave us some recommendations for streetfood in his hometown where we'll be before Guadalajara. Had we not been in a queue and all about to leave- he also seemed to be on a mission somewhere- I think this would have made a great candidate for a first in-depth conversation/interview about food, so I was a little sorry to say goodbye. Not to worry, though, I made the most of the time I had with him, and I can be happy with that.
We left with a couple of treats in hand for the old-timer who was watching our rides, making sure that we put back a little bit of the love we get from the people here. What a wonderful country Mexico is.Læs mere
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- Dag 30
- fredag den 6. marts 2020 kl. 07.49
- ☁️ 17 °C
- Højde: 11 m
MexicoPueblo Nuevo24°9’28” N 110°19’9” W
Classic to contemporary

A full day veggie of eating
Yesterday morning started with the intent of exercise. Then Jen saw an advert for a pancake offer somewhere on Saturday and, within five minutes, our walk had been sliced in favour of the nearest place that served up pancakes.
So, whilst there was no doubt what Jen would be ordering, I was a little less certain at first, until I spotted Chilaquiles on the menu- a fairly classic Mexican dish that's eaten at breakfast or later if desired. Jen asked me what they consisted of, but I wasn't sure- I was just following my intent to try stuff I'm not familiar with. I was willing to bet on tortillas of some kind, likely refried beans, some kinda red or green sauce, and maybe some cheese. And I was right, save for the addition of my choice of fried egg or chicken. I opted for egg, partly as I like to see how places here do at vegetarian food as it's not really their skillet. It was also an opportunity to keep my instances of eating meat balanced.
Jen seemed pretty chuffed with her pancakes. My Chilaquiles were outstanding, specifically the red sauce which had a tang and texture a bit more like a good Italian pomodoro sauce, but the flavours and kick of classic Mexican. The sour cheese offset it nicely and, as always, refried beans just ground the whole thing with that savoury flavour and texture which shouldn't be right, but really is.
It was quite a touristic restaurant we are in, right on the Malecon (promenade), so for the food to be that good, and for about $8, we were pretty impressed.
Lunch was skipped as breakfast was big and we hadn't done the exercise to deserve the calories. Dinner came after a visit to the dentist to see about repairing my third broken tooth of the last 18 months. This time, we were in a funky little vegetarian restaurant with a lovely young team running the joint. We ordered an tasting plate, consisting of spinach and corn empanadas (blue corn tortillas), a black bean and rice burger, falafel, guac, fries, and then this falafel pastor thing, I.e. a veggie alternative to classic meat Pastor, the Persian inspired shaved spiced meat. On the side, Pastor sauce and another which I failed to identify and forgot to ask.
Everything was tasty enough, and a pleasant alternative. The pastor dish gave me an idea, though- basically, I could do the same kind of thing, but with my veggie burger. I'm thinking broken into bits, minus the panko, then fried to create a similar mouthfeel to the little pieces of meat you have trimmed from the kebab. I'll tweak the spicing and come up with a pastor sauce, playing around with what was in theirs- tomatoes (roasted, I think), tomatillos, fresh Serrano chillies, dried Ancho chillies and cilantro. Watch this space.
Overall, the experience of being there was nice. It's good to see places pushing a different agenda to the mainstream, and trying to knock out credible alternatives. A few tweaks on execution and they could have a really smart and punchy proposition.
If I don't eat with emote fish tacos or pollo asado today, I will consider the day, maybe even the trip, a failure. We'll be heading back out into some wild camp spots as of tomorrow's so it'll be back into some of my own food. I've still not made my take on Tostielotes, and I've a bag of tostitos there, as well as some leftover veggie chilli in the freezer, so I need to follow through on that one.Læs mere
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- Dag 29
- torsdag den 5. marts 2020 kl. 19.44
- ⛅ 18 °C
- Højde: 11 m
MexicoPueblo Nuevo24°9’28” N 110°19’9” W
Simple, if not easy

Classic Baja seafood, done to perfection
The Sea of Cortez provides some of the best seafood on the planet, in abundance. From what I've seen so far, they don't mess with it here too much, though so far as street eats and family restaurants are concerned, anyway- it's Baja fish tacos with the batter; some ceviches, usually on a tostada (crispy round tortilla); shrimp and sometimes crab. Although, I have seen manta ray which kinds hits me a bit because, for some reason, I hadn't imagined they would be eaten because they are such iconic creatures- I thought maybe they'd be protected. They also have Marlin in some places, but definitely not so common.
Yesterday, Jen picked out somewhere that sounded like a bit of an institution here with the locals, called Taco Fish- does what it says on the tin, we figured, and we were defo in the mood for some of that action.
A stroll through the markets on the way was nice- we'll need to revisit there as we do like to eat in mercados as it's a true experience. Always simple, focused and priced for locals. I like that people specialise so much here, it only produces great results. It reminds me of Italy on the produce front- I remember in a market near Sienna in Tuscany, there was a buffalo mozzarella guy, and then a guy who only did Burrata mozzarella- it was so cool that he specialised on one particular version of an already quite specific skill when it comes to cheese. Fantastic.
On arriving at Taco Fish, we saw it packed with locals- maybe more of the middle-class working type than those we sit beside at street-stalls. The restaurant was certainly a bit more modern and polished than many that we choose to eat in. The menu was simple: 3 kinds of soft tacos, 3 kinds of tacos dorados (basically stuffed and fried in a roll or like an empanada shape), a couple of ceviches and that was it. So that was the simple bit.
Deciding was not so simple- torn between sticking with what I know I'll love and that will hit the spot, and being more adventurous, but risking disappointment- but that's the joy of the format of the food here being small enough that you can eat two or more, and it's cheap enough, you can afford to be wrong. So, I went Baja style fish tacos and a jaiba (crab) taco dorado. Jen also went for fish tacos and added a tostada with Ceviche.
The format was also an exercise in simplicity- order at the counter, leave your name; food comes to you free of any garnish; you go and select from the garnish bar, and then pay when you leave, ordering more in between if desired. The complicated parts were a) figuring that process out with the speed at which the guy at the counter spoke, and b) trying to establish just what to put on in the way of garnishes. There were so many! And then the hot sauces, I lost count! If you're Mexican then you'll already know your go-to, but for me it was all too much and I was a bit blinded by it all, and with everyone buzzing around me, knowing their shit, I just grabbed some stuff and hoped for the best. There are worse problems to have.
Even after studying what I added, I'm not even sure what I added to mine to be honest. Some cabbage for sure, some kinda loose guacamole squeez bottle sauce, and then some onions with what both Jen and I thought were shredded carrots. We thought it was all a bit in the hot side which is when the penny dropped that the orange strips were not grated carrots, but , in fact, sliced orange habanero chillies. Ooft. I do like my food hot, though, so carry on, I did, Jen removed a few, I think, although she's definitely cranking up the heat versus her old tastes. Mexico does that to you.
The fish tacos were fantastic, I loved the approach of taking a slice it from a bigger piece of fish instead of the more typical nugget format, and it was a fair old chunk they served up, too. My crab taco dorado was interesting- absolutely packed with meat, unusually low on flavourings and spicing, but better for it. The crab wasn't as sweet, strong in flavour, or delicate as what we're more used to with brown crab in the UK- it was fleshier, something akin to tinned tuna if you pulled it all apart.
Jen devoured her fish taco and was a big fan of the Ceviche. Let's face it, nothing will ever live up to how they do it in Peru, but this was by far the most solid attempt yet since we were last down in Lima. Super fresh, nicely balanced on acidity, plenty of fresh, light veg throughout and the contrast with the crispy tostada underneath worked a treat. The one thing I notice with Mexican food is that getting mucky is part of the deal- liquid isn't strained out, for example, so your Ceviche will be dripping it's juices down your face, and hands, and up your sleeve. Once you're over it being a less civilised experience than you're used to, the mess becomes part of the experience you enjoy, and actually look for. It's part of the culture as I see it.
So that was that. Simple satisfaction, and for less than $10 USD. I suspect we'll be back before we leave Baja for mainland Mexico, arriving in Mazatlàn, Sinaloa, on Monday. I also want to cram in some Pollo Asado (BBQ chicken) from a roadside joint. How we've not eaten this staple within the 6 weeks we've been in Baja, I have no idea.Læs mere
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- Dag 28
- onsdag den 4. marts 2020 kl. 10.00
- ☀️ 19 °C
- Højde: 18 m
MexicoPrimero de Mayo24°9’9” N 110°19’1” W
Decent Dough!

A rare treat of proper breads in Mexico.
Good flour isn't cheap to come by in Mexico, I'm told, so maybe that explains why bread generally isn't that great, and maybe also because the demand isn't there- dough like we're into back home isn't what this country has been built on, not in its current form at least. Tortillas In one form or another, I.e. unrisen dough, is what it's all about. And result is I couldn't even find yeast the other day - in Walmart, as well. The assistant in the shop looked at Jen lile she had two heads when she asked for 'levadura'. I do hope we didn't offend by risking suggestion of some delicate lady-infection. Done now...
I'm sat here, back in La Paz, in a mechanic's garage whilst we get some repairs done on our truck, Spud. I figured I might as well use the waiting tine to make my update for the day about bread, and the fact that we actually found some decent examples in the town of El Triunfo, yesterday. It's an old silver mining town which has been well-preserved. We'd been told by a few people that we must visit the cafe there for some bread- this is where the biker guy is meant to be. We didn't see any such dude, but it was a cool place and pretty sweet to see a wood-fired oven on the go.
The menu was all Italian, pretty much. House-made pastas and the like. As much as I wanted to test their Lasagne - I find it hard to resist an opportunity like that, especially when it's so rare out here- I figured we really should go with something from the oven, so pizza it was, whilst Susie and Patrick went for Lasagne, much to my curiosity. At about $15, thr pizza was far from what we typically spend- our daily budget is $14 to cover both food and a few beers or whatever. But, sometimes, needs must.
The result was better than the norm for this kind of thing here, but a bit short of what your mind goes to when you think of pizza. It was, at least, twice the size of Jen's head. The base was nice and thin, and crust crisp. The tomato sauce was decent, and they understood the idea of less is more- something that almost no pizza restaurants seem to get their head around. It always surprises me- you can serve better pizza that will cost you less to make, if you just put less on it! I guess maybe that's not what 'the people' want, and who am I to argue.
The owner of the place is self-taught, so that's a nice part of the story. Hopefully one day I'll be able to say the same.
It has all got me to thinking, despite the flour situation, we need to get in the case with making our own breads now that we have a van with an oven. So, I'm thinking Rosemary Focaccia would be a good starting point- that said, finding rosemary here is hit and miss. Maybe oregano and tomato. Focaccia in any case. Watch this space.
For now, I just want the work to be done here so that I can join Jen in town for some long-awaited local food, served up on plastic plates as we sit on plastic chairs, eating at a plastic table, with a plastic cover, on the side of the road, side by side with local people, looking out over the Sea of Cortez. Canne beat it. I wonder if they know how good they have it, here.
I have a little rapport with the mechanic boss here. I should maybe take the opportunity to ask him about food over in Mazatlàn in the mainland, where he's from, and where we'll be heading next, likely early next week.Læs mere
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- Dag 27
- tirsdag den 3. marts 2020 kl. 10.00
- ⛅ 14 °C
- Højde: 399 m
MexicoSanta Cruz23°48’36” N 110°3’17” W
Burger King

Veggie Burgers and BBQ sauce up in the sierras
We did a U-turn yesterday and headed inland due to some shitty weather that's due to hit the coast.
We arrived at our camp kinda late on, but it didn't stop me setting to work on making a BBQ sauce to go with the planned dinner of veggie burgers. I haven't made this sauce for ages- since our last van, back down in Chile.
The principles are fairly simple, and so the ingredients are easy to swap out if you don't have the right stuff to hand, e.g. we didn't have Apple juice yesterday, so I blitzed some fresh pineapple instead;
1) Onion, garlic and (optional) ginger base
2) Add spices and sweat
3) Add acids (vinegar, then reduce, then fruit juice, then reduce)
4) Add body- e.g. tomato passata- not an essential stage
5) Adjust flavour profile and seasoning- e.g. with soy sauce, mustard, honey/treacle/molasses
6) Cook out to desired texture
The burgers were done in panko, and in a toasted burger bap, served up with mayo, BBQ sauce, mustard, Susie's pickled carrots, shredded lettuce, super thin sliced tomatoes, and a full round slice of red onion on the base to give it some punch. They went down well. Patrick and Susie seem truly blown away with this veggie food- they are big meat-eaters- and Patrick is saying he's looking forward to serving up these recipes to his family as their minds will be blown by the dishes, and the fact he's cooking them. That's some big compliments there's which sent me to bed very happy.
As much as I've enjoyed eating all this stuff we've made, I'm looking forward to wrapping up the batches we have as it's been too long since we've been eating in places at the side of the road- it's killing me driving past such awesome ramshackle little places, packed out with locals and smoke bellowing out from the grill. We've still not had a single pollo asado (BBQ chicken), so that needs sorted out, pronto. And we need some more Baja fish tacos before we leave here for the mainland, soon.
Onwards we go. Today we should find some good bread at a bakery that's run by an old-skool biker guy, seemingly.
BBQ sauce recipe.
1 onion finely chopped
4 garlic cloves grated
Thumb of ginger grated
80ml red wine vinegar
80ml balsamic vinegar
2 teaspoons ground coriander
3 teaspoons smoked paprika
2 teaspoons sweet paprika
2 tsp cumin
2 tsp gr ginger
1 teaspoon mustard powder
2 teaspoons chile flakes
4 chipotle chilies
2 teaspoons chipotle sauce
1 handful chopped cilantro stalks
8 desert spoons mustard (yellow or any type)
500mls apple juice (or other fruit juice)
50ml soy sauce
100mls honey
200 grams tomato passata
1.5 tablespoons sugar (estimate- see below)
Salt to taste
Note: the amount of sugar required may differ depending on how sweet the Apple juice is, so taste before adding and add gradually tasting as you go.
1. Gently cook the onion in a pot until softened, add the garlic and ginger and cook for another 3 minutes, taking care not to burn or apply too much colour
2. Add the spice mix and cook for a minute or so, until the flavours start to release. Add a little more oil if you have to.
3. Add the Chipotle chillies and sauce and cook for another minute
4. Add the vinegars, raise the heat and reduce by around 3/4- until the harshness has gone from the smell
5. Add the fruit juice, reduce by half or more- consistency should be just starting to thicken a little
6. Add the mustard, soy, honey, cilantro and tomato passata. Cook for around 20 minutes, or until it becomes sufficiently thickened. Check flavour throughout, adding salt, sugar and additional spices to taste. If it needs a little more acidity, a drop or two of vinegar to taste, also.Læs mere
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- Dag 26
- mandag den 2. marts 2020 kl. 08.40
- ⛅ 22 °C
- Højde: 5 m
MexicoPocitos23°36’2” N 109°34’34” W
Burger Beach Bonanza

Quesadillas; Poblanos; Veggie Burgers!
Susie and Jen both made quesadillas the last couple of days, with various fillings- chicken, beans, salsa. All very tasty. With Jen's, we tried the cheap hot sauces we bought from the supermarket in preparation for my tostielote spin. One chipotle, one 'red'. They were pretty decent, and I think defo the right types I've guessed for what needs to go on this super-snack. Although, I think maybe I need to find out what's going on with tamarind here, as I wouldn't be surprised if that's what the 3rd sauce on the Balandra tostilocos was. I see tamarind pods in all the supermarkets here, so it's time to find out how it's used in Mexican cooking, so that'll be a task for today.
With much help from Susie, Patrick and Jen, we made a bumper batch of my standard veggie burger mix. It is a mammoth effort. The recipe is below, until such time as I've decided upon my solution for storing them. The effort really is in all the grating of the veg and then squeezing the water out. At home, I'm sure a food processor and some other bits n bobs would help. I am going to try another base for the recipe which isn't so labour intensive, but whilst I'm out here, I don't really mind spending the time as the results are pretty epic.
As mentioned before, the idea with this patty- which I generally coat in panko before frying, but can be done without- is that it's versatile. The spicing (cumin, ground coriander, paprika) is designed to be generic enough that we can mix up what we serve it with. I'm planning on making it with some BBQ sauce today, with choose, pickled carrots (courtesy of Susie), and maybe some slaw of some kind, depending on ehat we find on our way South to our next camp spot. It'll be interesting to see how all it gets used in the coming days. It freezes very well, too. This batch looks fantastic. It's all about getting the water out, and a bit of luck with how wet the chickpeas are- sometimes they're too mushy, like beans.
Dinner had to be thrown together sharp after all that veggie burger prep. With the veggie bean chilli from the other day, so stuffed poblano chillies and threw some asadero cheese in there- this is becoming a favourite of mine. Damn tasty, quite light, and uses only about 4 teaspoons of the Chilli so it makes it stretch well which is important in our case. I served it with guacamole, as per the recipe which our Mexican buddy gave me a 10/10 for (with tomato, no cilantro, and some pre-soaked white onion), and some 'red' sauce- slightly grilled tomatoes, dried ancho chilli, lime, cilantro, water.
That all went down a treat. So, even though there's repetition in what we're eating- that will always be the case whilst I'm working on Mexican food and my little variants, plus my old van-food favourites- I can't recall the last meal we had that wasn't delicious. It lets me start to really get a handle on some of the recipes, too, so that I can start to write them up and publish on here.
We heard recently of a couple of other travellers selling vegan meals for 450 pesos from their van- that's nearly $25 USD. I could smash put epic food for half that and make a decent profit. The thought is crossing my mind more often these days. What's to lose?
Anyway, veggie burger patty mix recipe below. This is vegan, depending on your garnish, and gluten free if you choose to use chickpea flour.
Dodgy Dave's Veggie Burger Mix: MkII
Burger mix- makes 8 (I think), maybe more
Chickpeas- 2 tins, drained, crushed and dried as much as possible
Garlic- 2 medium cloves grated
Peppers- 2 grated coarse (red and green ideally)
Courgette/zucchini- 1 large fine grated
Yellow Onion- 2 medium, coarse grated
Small aubergine/eggplant- skinned and coarse grated
Fresh Coriander5Cilantro- 1/2 bunch, finely chopped
Carrot - 2 medium, fine grated
Mushrooms- 200g very finely chopped
Fresh chili- to taste, finely chopped
Fresh lime juice- about 1/2 to a full, to taste, so maybe even more
4 TBSP chickpea flour, +/- to texture and stiffen. Wheat flour can be used, and actually works pretty well.
Spice mix;
2 tsp ground cilantro
2 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp chilli flakes (or adjust to taste)
2 tsp paprika
1/2 tsp cayenne
Serving suggestions;
Classic: on a bun with:
Mayo
Lettuce
Tomato
Red onion slices
BBQ: on a bun with
Mayo
Dodgy Dave's BBQ Sauce
Red onion, or onion rings
Kinda Med/Persian style;
On a flatbread/wrap with squeeze of lime, pickles, tomato, pepper, yoghurt with lime and cilantro)
Alt option for all variants: dip patties in flour then egg then panko to fry up to a crispy version.
Prep:
Grate all the veg (except mushrooms) and place in a sieve over a bowl. Then, take handfuls and squeeze the water out of it thoroughly, and set it aside. Take a 2nd pass at it if needed. Mix it all together.
Add a little vegetable oil to a non stick frying pan and put on a medium heat.
Fry the veg mix (except the mushrooms and fresh chillies) in batches and set aside- idea is to cook off the water, get rid of the raw flavours and sweeten it, and get a little colour and savoury flavour in there. Get a little colour on each batch, then set aside in a pot. Use a little oil for each batch as needed, but only as much as is necessary, you don't want a greasy burger, hence why non stick pan is ideal.
Fry the mushrooms on a high heat with no oil- they should shrink right down and get colour. Don't be tempted to move them around too much. Depending on the size of the pan, two batches may be required- just make sure and don't have them layered thickly.
Add the cooked mushrooms to the veggie mix in the pan.
Put the pan on a medium heat and add in the spice mix. Stir, and allow the aromas to start coming out of the spices for a few minutes.
Add in the chickpeas and mix well and let it all sweat together for a few more minutes then allow to cool.
Once cooled, add the cilantro and fresh chilli and season with the lime juice and salt to taste- the idea here is to introduce fresh, zingy flavours at the end so that their flavour remains as vibrant as possible in the end result, providing contrast for the deep and warm flavours and textures that's been created in the base patty. You can adjust the level of chilli, cilantro etc as you see fit, but keep it versatile as a patty is my advice.
Make into patties, and put in fridge or freezer as desired.
For final cooking, either coat the patties in flour then beaten egg then panko and deep fry (or shallow fry and turn- make sure oil is deep enough to cover half way up), or just fry gently with no breadcrumb in a non stick with a little oil.
Serve up as you prefer.Læs mere
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- Dag 24
- lørdag den 29. februar 2020 kl. 17.46
- ☀️ 24 °C
- Højde: 279 m
MexicoLa Zorra23°29’54” N 109°47’28” W
Ideas for the pot

Teaching Patrick how to make my veggie Chilli
We decided another veggie chilli was in order, primarily as it's so versatile, but also because Patrick wanted to learn how to make it. He doesn't cook a whole lot, and especially not veggie food, but he loved the chilli so much before that he was keen to learn something without meat.
I've also decided that I'm going to make my own version of Tostielotes- it's going to have the veggie Chilli, as well as cucumber and jicama (per the tostilocos at Balandra), corn, sour cream, a variety of hot sauces, a squeeze of lime, and some queso fresco. I imagine feeding this to friends at home, using Doritos, I guess. I think it would go down a real treat. I can't wait to cook all this stuff for friends along the road and at home.
On the hot sauce front, I'm needing to ask what they add to tostielotes. I'm sure it's just bottles of stuff off a shelf, which is fine- no need to mess with it- I just need to know what ones. The tostilocos had three sauces in there, our tostielotes only had one. I think maybe there's a bit sauce, a chipotle one, and a tamarind one, just judging by the colours. It's impossible to tell when it's all just thrown in there.
I see tamarind pods in the supermarkets, so I need to explore how they process it and use it. I'm used to using it in Asian cookery, but in the paste form which will avoid what I'm sure will be a fairly footery process.
As well as the Tostito dish- which I think I may badge Tostidavitos or Locodavitos or something suitable, we've some poblano peppers to be stuffed, too.
Yesterday, we also made some more pickled Jalapeños, Green Tomato Sauce and Pico de Gallo. All decent. We have stuff left to make some Red Sauce, Guac, and a few other bits n bobs. I think the goal here is to likely always have a bunch of these items as store cupboard/fridge stocked items as it's all so interchangeable, and it's so easy and cheap to find the ingredients. I imagine I'll be able to cook almost all Mexican dishes. I like this idea of having a base set of easily sourced things which I can pivot to do anything- the opportunity here is that shopping will be less dependent on pte-meditating what we're going to eat, and more a case of just stocking up on the same set of ingredients, and then deciding as we go. What a great way to live, and I'm sure once I get in the swing of other dishes, we'll be eating close to as good as restaurant food for even cheaper.
We found lemons yesterday in Cabo- you never see yellow lemons here. That means we can use the Asadero cheese to try to make a take on a lemon/oregano halloumi dish we used to make at home- marinated then grilled. Looking forward to that, maybe in a Vanini (a name we gave to a tortilla stuffed with whatever and cooked in the van)- think wrapped quesadilla.
I'm also wanting to explore doing a veggie Pastor, using the marinade I have on the same Asadero cheese.
So lots of ideas in the pot...
Oh, and we christened the HP sauce we bought in California yesterday, thanks to Jen making some scrambled eggs and toast. Perfection.Læs mere
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- Dag 18
- søndag den 23. februar 2020 kl. 20.24
- ⛅ 18 °C
- Højde: 7 m
MexicoCardonal24°5’51” N 110°23’14” W
Last day in La Paz

Susie's meatballs and leftover chilli quesadillas.
After too many days of partying and the resultant hangover yesterday, today's food needed to be practical to allow us time to catch our tails on a bunch of tasks so that we can leave town tomorrow.
We had a smidge of bean chilli and trimmings left over from our Balandra beach gatherings, so Susie put on some quesadillas for lunch with some pointers from Jen, who has mastered them over the last year or so. The tortillas we are using are a little higher in fat content than most which makes for quite a nice result regards how crispy they get, even if they're a little less healthy. The asadero cheese - think mozzarella but slightly drier- worked a treat, and the trimmings of creme fraiche and leftover beef Adobada, and red sauce topped it off nicely- we do love a free lunch.
Susie offered to cook dinner. Given her results with the chicken avocado sandwich, which suggests she's got a great palate, I was looking forward to whatever she made. Meatballs with a tomato sauce, spaghetti and parmesan were knocked out in quick order. Really decent, too. I've always had problems getting meatballs to be quite as soft as when you order them (polpette) in Italy. These were much better than my previous attempts.
Susie told me that she doesn't normally do meatballs, it's more common for her to make a pasta sauce with fresher tomatoes, spicy Italian sausage and seasoning. They've eaten that as a family since way back, so it's one of those staple dishes for them by the sounds of it. The same kind of thing was a firm favourite with me for years at home, less so Jen as she's not a huge fan of the fennel flavour in Italian sausage.
Tomorrow we head for Todo Santos. I've not checked out what the food possibilities are down there yet, but Jen said we can buy fish from the fisherman on the beach, and that someone mentioned having red snapper, so that's got me in the mood for a BBQ on the beach if we can make it come together.
The area we're heading to is much more expensive, so I doubt we'll be hitting any nice restaurants- taco stands, family run joints, and plenty of cooking in the van all be in order.Læs mere
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- Dag 17
- lørdag den 22. februar 2020 kl. 23.58
- ⛅ 19 °C
- Højde: 7 m
MexicoCardonal24°5’51” N 110°23’14” W
Getting Curious

22nd February. Dirty pizza; the birthday(s) ends.
After so many days of indulgence, it all had to end some point. Today was a sluggish one, accumulated hangovers finally grinding us to a hault with all the associated guilt of calories consumed and pounds gained. The only question that really matters is was it worth it? And yes, it was. That's the best birthday celebration I think I've ever been a part of. 4 days of brilliant people with food playing the wonderful role it does in bringing people from all over the world together with a common language of deliciousness. I am delighted that I had the opportunity to contribute, and humbled by how well it all landed.
Today's helping of dirty pizza from Little Caesar's was the only thing any of us wanted. Satisfying and depressing at the same time. Exactly as required for a hangover. Healthy eating starts tomorrow.
So that's me sat and plugged in all my historic notes into this app so I'm now up to speed. Through the process of making the updates, I started to notice a specific gap in how I'm approaching the topic. I said I would talk more to people about all things food, and I also referenced that's hard for me in some situations. But what I hadn't realised is that I'm missing quite an easy opportunity to talk to the other travellers I meet. It got me to thinking about how I can start better conversations, likely with quite an explicit interview style, so I spent a little time writing down the kind of questions I think I can start asking to get people to open up and, hopefully, I'll learn lots of information and make stronger connections as a result.
Here's the kind of stuff I'm thinking about. Learning some of them in Spanish will be interesting; not as hard as trying to decipher the answers I get, mind you.
What are your fondest memories of eating?
What was the one dish everyone in your family loved?
Describe your relationship with food
Describe mealtimes with your family. How has that changed through your life?
What matters to you when it comes to eating?
Describe a particular meal/occasion that stands out in your memory
Desert Island scenario. What's that meal or set of ingredients you'd take?
Who would you most like to dine with? What would the over-the-table conversation be about?
Describe the role that food plays in your family home, with your friends, in your country and culture. What value does that relationship carry?
What's your attitude towards current hot topics, such as sustainability, environmental impact and animal welfare?
How would you rate your cooking skills? Would you like that to be different/what stands in the way?
What is your favourite dish to cook or have cooked for you?
What's your earliest memories of being in the kitchen?
What does the future of food look like for you?
So I suppose I should try answer them for myself to see how well they work. Not bad, I think is my conclusion. We'll see what actually happens when I start asking people such things out of the blue.
What are your fondest memories of eating?
Any time with friends and good times. Particularly ones where I've managed to really deliver some food that blew someone away. Definitely the annual event my parents held to celebrate a poet. It was my opportunity to push myself to please a wider audience with large numbers. It was always stressful, and it would end up with my mum having to do so much help to keep things clean and moving, but the only bit that sticks is how people responded, and those clean plates.
What was the one dish everyone in your family loved?
Sausage pie. My mum's way of getting onions into me- I was a fussy wee bugger. Richmond recipe Irish sausages, chopped into chunks and fried with onions, tomato puree, and a tin of Heinz baked beans. Fired into an oven dish and topped with fluffy mash, maybe cheese as a treat on top, then into the oven to crisp the top. It remains a favourite, and it's an example of how, despite being able to knock out some pretty high end food these days, trying to replicate my mother's dish, no matter how elementary it may seem, is a task beyond me. I'm less able to perfectly burn onions for a start.
Describe your relationship with food
I'm fairly obsessed. It can be unhealthy for me, psychologically at times. If planning a big meal, I'll often start work on the menu design months in advance, and even in those early stages, be waking up with ideas in the middle of the night. My mind is at its worst when it's at its best, creatively. My desire to do everything from scratch means I get good results, but I spend more time than most would going to lengths that aren't always necessary. But I love it. Food and cooking is capable of making me cry with pleasure, so I know that it is truly my 'thing'. I'm a bit more balanced with things right now, because I can't have it dominating a trip that is as much about all the other thrills of travel as it is about being a food nut.
I love to challenge myself with cookery, and the buzz of pushing to execute something exceptional. I put myself through torture sometimes by doing things like cooking in restaurant kitchens- it makes me seriously anxious- but the feeling I get when I finish a shift, working with people I look yo as heroes, is worth all the nerves. I've made friends for life through food. It has changed my life.
Describe mealtimes with your family. How has that changed through your life?
In earlier years we always ate together. That started to change as I got older and, maybe, as society changes in that regard. I always wanted to be with my friends. Sunday dinner was still generally done. It's one thing I miss from being at home. If and when we return, I'll make mote of an effort to be around for that.
What matters to you when it comes to eating?
That whoever made the food cared about what they did. It's everything. Sometimes people close to me don't want to cook for me because they see how critical I am of my own food, but they miss an important point- I just love someone taking their time and being kind enough to serve me a plate of food, because they'll have done it with the care it deserves. I'm happy with scrambled eggs and toast. It's just so nice to sit down and be served something. It's relaxing.
Describe a particular meal/occasion that stands out in your memory
The first time we walked into The Gannet in Glasgow. We were only in for drinks- it had not long opened to the public, and we had other plans for dinner. I saw a plate going past and knew immediately that it was high quality- the colour preserved in the cooking of the spinach, the translucence of the sauce, and how everything sat up on the plate. That moment changed everything, possibly my life, forever. We went in a few days later and it blew my mind. We were in all the time and got super friendly with the staff, particularly Rory, the guy running bar. It turned out he was the brother of the owner, Peter. Eventually I plucked up the balls to ask him if he would ask his brother if I could come into the kitchen to learn.
My first shift, I thought I'd just be picking lettuce and watching, but it was very much hands in and I was given plenty of tasks. My second shift, I expected similar, but I was put on my own station on their second busiest night ever. I didn't have a single dish sent back from being sent to the 'pass'. Since then, I've become extremely close with Peter, and his friends and family; I've stood side by side with him as my food hero, cooking in front of the public at food festivals. I've cooked with him for local charitable causes. He values my opinion on his dishes, perhaps the greatest honour. My food has improved exponentially, and I now dream of a future that involves food in some way.
I've had a several profound meals in my life, not least at Central, in Lima, Peru, which is one of the leading restaurants in the world with particularly inspirational work on sustainability of culture, environment and indigenous people and practice. That made me cry. I couldn't even talk when I got introduced to the kitchen team.
Desert Island scenario. What's that meal or set of ingredients you'd take?
I can't answer it. My mind changes every day. If I had to take ingredients, likely a handful of core veggies that I can use to make a variety of Mediterranean dishes. I love Italian food.
Who would you most like to dine with? What would the over-the-table conversation be about?
Tough one. Maybe Anthony Bourdain. I'd like to talk to him about some of the crazy stories, but mainly about how to be a great travel and food writer like he was.
Describe the role that food plays in your family home, with your friends, in your country and culture. What value does that relationship carry?
It's still very important in my family home. Everything is home cooked. My mum is a great cook and she's trying many new things all the time, whilst keeping a sense of routine with old favourites which keeps my dad happy. My close friends are pretty much all into food and cooking, so it's integral to our social scene. I love it. As for the country, we've lost connection in many ways to our history with food. That's not all a bad thing as we've a fantastic, vibrant food scene, but there's also a lot of crap, like anywhere, and it was be nice to keep connected. I'm not sure how much families are together around food, these days, so it would be good not to drift any further, but I suspect that's just the way things are going. People are busy and have different priorities.
What's your attitude towards current hot topics, such as sustainability, environmental impact and animal welfare?
It would be tempting, given that I believe it's too late for humans to save themselves, to be apathetic, but these are extremely important topics. I'd love to have a restaurant that had a net positive impact on the world and it's animals. I struggle greatly with the fact I'm eating meat. It used to be that so long as it was reared well l, then I'd be cool with it, but the death of a creature is a serious thing and I don't believe it's my decision to make, yet I am, at the moment, eating meat. I'm not sure what my future will be with it, especially if I ever open a restaurant.
How would you rate your cooking skills? Would you like that to be different/what stands in the way?
I'm good at what I do, sometimes exceptional, given I've no formal training. But I need a much broader knowledge of more of the structural stuff that would give me way more flexibility to produce more varied and interesting food.
What is your favourite dish to cook or have cooked for you?
I love to cook a full tasting menu, and the highlight for me is always trying to nail the meat dish which would ideally be home-based, with a refined sauce and some smartly though-out garnishes. But I'm also just as happy making an epic lasagne.
What's your earliest memories of being in the kitchen?
Licking sponge mix off the mixer blade when my mum was baking, then gradually getting into helping.
What does the future of food look like for you?
Fuck knows. I'd be surprised if I don't do something career-wise with it, but I'm open to whatever at the moment. I know I need to cook for people more often than I do, and that I need to learn more food from more places to make people happy.Læs mere
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- Dag 16
- fredag den 21. februar 2020 kl. 12.00
- ☀️ 26 °C
- Højde: 16 m
MexicoPueblo Nuevo24°8’52” N 110°19’26” W
Carne-Val

21st February. Carnaval in La Paz.
The fourth day of Jen's birthday celebrations saw us back into the city of La Paz for the annual Carnaval celebrations. Besides fun and laughs, this was about streetfood.
We had;
Tostielotes- like the tostilocos, but just corn, sour cream, fresh cheese and hot sauce. The ones in Oaxaca are better but still a damn tasty treat for munching in the move.
Quesadillas- the best I've seen. Fresh pressed blue corn dough, made by proper hard-working Mexican grandmas. They knew what they were doing. The second I saw the stand, the ladies, the way they worked and the way people were eating, I knew this was the real deal. Mushroom and cheese filling in one, and then another with chicharron- pork belly braised down in a spice mix that I can't yet out my finger on. First class.
Tacos- no new varieties, but the pastor was carved very thin, quite different to how we've normally had it.
We'd have had more but the booze was flowing pretty well and time seemed to evaporate.Læs mere
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- Dag 15
- torsdag den 20. februar 2020 kl. 12.00
- ☀️ 23 °C
- Højde: 5 m
MexicoCañada Balandra24°19’12” N 110°18’56” W
Balandra #2: Next Level Leftovers

February 20th. Next level leftovers for the Balandra crew.
As celebrations continued for yet another day, it was time to feed the crew once more. We had leftovers of everything, and then I also roasted some poblano peppers which I stuffed with Asadero cheese and my first attempt at beef Adobada- which was kinda hard having never properly read how to make it. I seared some dried ancho and guajillo chillies- both quite fruity in their dried state. To that, added some red wine vinegar, a bunch of garlic, some water and then into the blitzer for the completion of the marinade. 24hrs in the fridge, and then I cooked it off in a low oven, diced it and then fried it to get some colour. It wasn't like I've had in restaurants, so will need some work, but it was good in its own right.
I also threw together a red salsa. My guess was that it involved cooked tomatoes and dried ancho chillies. Boosted in confidence from the results of cooking the green tomato salsa, I felt happy about only half roasting red tomatoes. I added anchos, some garlic, red wine vinegar, lime juice, sugar. Blitzed. Done. I like that most Mexican food I've been making so far is not very labour intensive- something I'm sure I'll feel bless about as the weather gets hotter and more humid as we head south.
The spread went down really well with the group again. There really is nothing better than kickass leftovers. Photos to follow.Læs mere
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- Dag 14
- onsdag den 19. februar 2020 kl. 12.00
- ☀️ 24 °C
- Højde: 5 m
MexicoCañada Balandra24°19’12” N 110°18’56” W
Cooking for the Balandra gang #1

19th February. My veggie chilli and a spread for the gang at Balandra beach.
The night before, for Jen's Birthday, we'd met a wonderful bunch of folks, including Argentinians Lucas and Ben, the former of which is famous in Latin America after an Instagram video he made went viral. He now travels off the back of what that brings him. His pal, Ben owns a video production company so they make a good team. And they're both pretty attractive specimens, so there's little to dislike. Maybe in a stupor of awe with Lucas' presence, and certainly influenced by the booze which had flowed all night, I suggested I cook for the whole party of new friends who had assembled to make Jen's birthday an amazing, unexpected treat.
When I awoke, somewhat hungover, in the public car park in town where we'd camped for tje night, and remembered my proposal, I felt it was important to honour it. I decided the most practical thing would be a big pot of veggie chilli and a good spread of sides. A mission around the supermarket saw us tooled up- $40 was enough to make enough food to feed 10 of us for 2 nights, and still have leftovers.
We went out to a cool spot called Balandra- a ridiculously beautiful cove with sand bars. Very touristy and busy as hell, so I was cooking the prep stuff in the middle of a packed car park, whilst Susie slept off the hangover and Patrick and Jen went a walk and for a swim.
Before starting to cook, we got some tostilocos- a packet of tostito tortilla chips, sliced open and rammed with crispy nuts, cucumber, jicama (like a turnip), 3 hot sauces and some fresh cheese. It's a beast of a thing. Tangy in the extreme and pretty satisfying.
I managed to chill for a while on the beach with the gang as they reassembled from their separate forays in town, returning in time for the sunset. Once it was dark, I had to spring into action to ensure I didn't end up late as can happen when cooking with booze. The nature of the spread was that it all benefited from last minute prep, besides the chilli which was already done.
The spread in total was;
Veggie chilli
Longaniza sausage, fried and crumbled
Fresh cheese (queso fresco)- nice and sour
Home made pickled jalapeños
Lettuce
Cabbage
Green tomato salsa
Guacamole
Pico de Gallo salsa
Radishes
Creme fraiche
Fresh tortillas- supermarkets or tortillerias sell them warm and freshly made
Tortilla chips
The green tomato salsa was a first. I've been eating it with many tacos and felt it was time to start increasing my repertoire. I checked a recipe as a reference point and was surprised to find that it involves slightly grilling the green tomatoes - it doesn't taste like a cooked tomato sauce. But the trick is that they're only grilled lightly. Normally, with the cooking styles I'm used to, if grilling, it would be done until fully cooked to get that grilled flavour and texture, but not so here, so that was a learning.. The only other components were white onion, Serrano chillies, lime. The important thing is sitting the onion in water first to take the harshness out. Throw it together into the blitzer, and done.
As food was served, along with some roasted veg and a potato and egg dish from another chap, keen to contribute, I realised that the guy knocking them out was Mexican. Here was I, on a beach in Mexico, serving up traditional Mexican food (the chilli, excepted) to a Mexican, who was cooking arguably more European food. I was nervous about what he'd think- Mexicans are proud and are willing to share their opinion, and I could tell he was curious to see whether I could deliver. He gave me 10/10 for my guacamole and my salsas. He'd never had anything like the veggie chilli and he was super impressed. Honestly, I was nearly in tears, that's one of my highlights of any cooking episode.
It was nothing short of magic, seeing everyone gathered around in the dark with candles and head-torches, making up their tacos with all different combinations. The place was silent for the most part, with groans of pleasure, and eventually building into conversation about the individual components. I was so happy to have played my part in bringing together people around food to help make a really special occasion to continue the celebrations for Jen's Birthday.
Good photos will need to wait until Ben completes production of the video he made of me preparing the food. I may yet be famous.
Note- our friend, Susie, makes a mean sandwich filling with chicken, whipped avocado, hard boiled egg, mayo and mustard. We'll defo be doing that one in future.Læs mere
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- Dag 13
- tirsdag den 18. februar 2020 kl. 12.00
- ☀️ 26 °C
- Højde: 7 m
MexicoCardonal24°5’51” N 110°23’14” W
Whalesharks and Tacos

18th February. Birthday Tacos in La Paz.
After swimming with whale sharks for Jen's Birthday, which was truly spectacular, we went into town for some tacos. I went for one familiar item (Pastor) to ensure some satisfaction in case my other wildcard items didn't pay off. Pastor is, I believe, of Persian descent- flavours and techniques (I.e. kebab on the grill) of the middle east, brought by the Spanish as they invaded. It's a spice blend, primarily of dried chillies and cumin, cooked in vinegar and then it marinades meat of any kind, usually pork as it's well suited. If done in the pan instead, it's known as Adobada.
My other orders were things I forgot to note the name of, so I'll need to revisit. Basically, one was carne asada (grilled beef) topped with chorizo. The other, I have no idea. I deliberately didn't ask as I am trying to be more adventurous. I'll need to ask again next time. The carne asada/chorizo combo was pretty damn good. The other thing, which I think was maybe offal, didn't quite capture my heart.
Jen was on Baja style fish tacos with the batter. Very nice indeed. Susie went for grilled fish crispy rolled tacos. Patrick was carne asada all the way. It's hard to know how many to order as they vary in size from place to place and price isn't always a gauge of quantity. At about $1.50 a pop in a more expensive place like this, when 3 fill you, you can't complain. Lunch for 3 of us including cocktails, came in at around $25.
The other advantage is being able to have variety and a quantity to suit how hungry you are as you can just order as you go. It's a fantastic way to eat, and always leaves open the possibility of a nibble elsewhere...Læs mere
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- Dag 9
- fredag den 14. februar 2020 kl. 12.00
- ☀️ 21 °C
- Højde: 9 m
MexicoEl Tular25°56’27” N 111°21’21” W
Pancakes & Peppers

14th February. Valentine van Chillies Rellenos; salty pancakes. Near Loreto.
A classic Mexican dish, traditionally done by roasting the pepper (poblano or annaheim), then removing the skin, slicing it open, cleaning it out and stuffing with asadero cheese, maybe with meat of some description, then wrapped up and dipped in a light batter- it would seem with egg whites whisked separately and then into the yolks and flour, before frying. I went for a simpler version for a first attempt- roasted the peppers, left the skin on, pulled out the insides and stuffed with my veggie bean chilli and the asadero cheese. Good result, actually. Trouble with these peppers is they can get a bit hot towards the tip, so maybe using normal peppers would be better for Jen, at least. Pretty tasty first go. A simple, fairly light dinner. If doing traditionally, a tomato sauce/stew would be on top, but not the right thing for this, given the tomato based chilli inside. Expect this will be a regular in the van. Thinking I can prepare them in advance, maybe a batch, then just roast them to order, only taking 10 minutes. Maybe they'd even freeze.
Jen also did some cooking with a return to her favoured pancakes. New vehicle, new tools, and a new recipe that turned out to be way too salty, resulting in eating them with ketchup to make it a savoury snack. I was happy enough. Jen less so.Læs mere
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- Dag 8
- torsdag den 13. februar 2020 kl. 12.00
- ☀️ 21 °C
- Højde: 9 m
MexicoLoreto26°1’8” N 111°20’43” W
Pizza n Chips...on the pizza

13th February. Pizza with chips (on the pizza). Loreto.
Our meal out was meant to be in a traditional place that has no menu and just serves you up whatever the lady of the house is putting together that day. It turned out to be closed. I was a bit disappointed as I was looking forward to an opportunity to experiment and get inquisitive. Our alternative turned out to be an ok pizza (with chips on it?!)- our first non Mexican food we've eaten (out-with our truck, Spud)- but it took an hour to arrive by which time any notion of a nice romantic meal was starting to slide into tiredness, as it was past our standard bedtime or 8pm.
In Latin America, when it comes to pizza, and maybe even cooking in general, the concept of 'less is more' isn't particularly well understood or practised. So, in the case of pizza, excess cheese is an issue. Yet, we never seemed to bloody learn before. Better now, as we're rarely eating food that isn't traditional for the place we're in.
A theme that's underpinning my current thinking of how principles such as 'less is more' might translate into whatever I do down the line, is refinement. I like the idea of taking authentic dishes and, whilst keeping them authentic regards flavour profile and, to an extent, texture, improving elements to turn out a more precise product with more distinction in the elements. The test that it should still pass is that someone from the place would still be able to recognise and connect with the dish and see it as a respectful nod. It has to be close enough to the original as well, because I want to be able to say, with integrity, that what I am serving is a real slice of the place. Authenticity is the differentiator that has the power to create an opportunity at home in the UK with Latin American cookery, but precision is what can take it to the next level, should that be the kind of product I decide I want to create. Ask most people what they think of when you say Mexican cuisine, and it'll probably be Fajitas, or other more Tex Mex varietals. I can't wait to serve people Mole, the rich and massively varied sauce from Oaxaca with all it's complex spices and chocolate (in some cases).Læs mere
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- Dag 5
- mandag den 10. februar 2020 kl. 12.00
- ☀️ 21 °C
- Højde: 10 m
MexicoEl Frijol26°39’46” N 111°51’14” W
Some favourites served on the beach

10th Feb. Veggie burger crispy balls, wraps, veg and yoghurt. Then veggie chilli tacos. All served right on epic El Coyote beach, in Bahia Concepción.
Recipe links to follow separately at a later date.
For our friends, Patrick and Susie, we offered to make some dinner. Ahead of that, I knocked together some lunch using leftover veggie burger mix (my standard recipe) out of the freezer, and turned it into balls which I breaded and fried. We then tore them up into some wraps with a bunch of fresh veg and a yoghurt, lime and cilantro dressing. They went down mighty well, so as this was the first I've cooked for them, I was feeling good about that. I always love an opportunity to please people through their tummies. I think most folk are expecting what can often be a disappointing experience with a veggie burger, so these really seem to hit the spot. Crunchy, tasty, dense, and spiced in the middle-ground so they're easy to match with a variety of flavours from different parts of the world, from Indian to Southeast Asian, to BBQ sauce with cheese and onion. Dynamite. Not a bad view, either.
Dinner was a batch of veggie chilli, served up with tacos, fresh cheese, guacamole, pico de Gallo salsa, and some sour cream- no pics. I'm noticing for the guac, less is more. I've taken cilantro out, and only put a small amount of white onion in it. A little tomato is fine, minus the pulp, and besides that, it's just about getting the lime balance right and the seasoning on point. As always, considering the flavour profile of all the other trimmings to make sure that the overall assembly is balanced is important. I don't like trying to just make everything all perfectly balanced in its own right. It's about contrasts within the whole- making sure the guac is creamy and not too tart; letting the salsa deliver the zing of acid along with the chilli heat- being bold enough with that heat because it's generally only a little and it's set against all those other flavours, some of which are fatty and can take it. The chilli itself is slightly sweet, and very deep in its spicing; it's thick in texture to play the role of the meat in the dish. From the cheese, there's richness with a slight tang. From the cream, some sour. I didn't do pickled chillies this time out, but I like that as a different way of introducing acid ans heat into the dish. If doing them, I'll tone down the lime in the salsa, and let the vinegar of the pickle do the talking that way, and I'll reduce the chilli content, or ideally use a milder chilli in the salsa, to still maintain that fresh, fruity chilli flavour that makes Pico de Gallo so epic, but without doubling down on the heat of the jalapeños, which can be pretty full-on. I've noticed that to get the right result in pickling jalapeños, cooking them out in the vinegar solution for a bit longer is best- maybe 5 minutes on the simmer.
Maybe the best thing about this kind of eating is the fact that it's interactive. Nothing quite like everything creating their own perfect taco to their taste, and passing stuff about the place. It's at the heart of the connective power of a meal that makes it transcend beyond being just the act of eating.Læs mere
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- Dag 4
- søndag den 9. februar 2020 kl. 12.00
- ⛅ 20 °C
- Højde: 7 m
MexicoCardonal24°5’51” N 110°23’14” W
Crispy Tacos

9th Feb. San Ignacio. Crispy tacos with Mechaca (and goats cheese).
After the whales, we returned to town and made the regular daily stop for some lunch tacos- it's quicker, cleaner and often just as cheap as making your own lunch, so it's super handy when we've got a long day's driving ahead, and it presents opportunities to eat in proper local places and enjoy some proper food and atmosphere.
Our food was freshly fried crispy tacos with Machaca (shredded beef), fresh tomatoes, lettuce, cabbage, sour cream and a little sprinkling of goats cheese. On the side, refried beans, of course, and rice. $4 per plate which is a slightly high price, owing to it being a touristic area, but the quality and quantity was bang on. We could actually have shared a plate. Jen wasn't a fan of the goats cheese. I was ok with it, but I think the flavour would better reside with lamb. They don't use lamb here, but it's a worthwhile note should I wish to replicate this in a restaurant at a future time.Læs mere
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- Dag 2
- fredag den 7. februar 2020 kl. 12.00
- ☀️ 21 °C
- Højde: 10 m
MexicoLa Base26°50’52” N 113°8’16” W
Avocado Pasta: who knew?!

7th Feb. Seabass with spicy avocado pasta. Scallops in ranchero stew. After watching grey whales in Laguna San Ignacio
This was what we were served up when at the whale watching place. The scallops here grow in a much bigger shell than at home, but the flesh is actually smaller. Our guide found one in the shallows for us, but it had an octopus hiding inside, which he handled to show us before letting it go. Then he got one with a scallop, but got stung by a stingray in the process, then again by another. He hardly even flinched. These things bloody killed Steve Irwin and he was a machine!
I quite liked the spicy avocado pasta with my fish. The seabass was a little stronger in fish flavour than my ideal, but I'm sure it would suit most palates. Jen's dish was interesting- the usual Mexican suspects- tomatoes, peppers, onions, stewed down with the scallops. As always, served on the table are the ubiquitous array of hot sauces. Can't complain. What I appreciated most is that this felt like home cooking, and that's the kind of thing we don't come across too often as, so far, we're typically eating at taco stands where it's more of a street-food style which I imagine to be different to what most eat at home.Læs mere
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- Dag 1
- torsdag den 6. februar 2020 kl. 12.00
- ☀️ 15 °C
- Højde: 42 m
MexicoLuis Donaldo Colosio31°52’27” N 116°34’56” W
The Beginning

I started this food journal of sorts on the 7th of February, 2020 having been in Mexico for a couple of weeks ay the beginning of 'phase 2' of our journey. Phase 1 was the prior eighteen months that I spent travelling with my partner, Jen, primarily in South America. We had sold our previous van that we drove around Chile and Argentina for nine months, and made our way back up towards the US where we planned to get our flight home to the UK with intention to continue travelling in Europe or Asia.
On our way back North, we realised that we felt we still had too much to see in the parts of Mexico, Central America and South America that we had missed, so we cancelled our flight home and bought another van in Seattle, beginning the next phase: a mission to drive to Chile.
Whilst I documented the journey from the start, in journals, and later, in a book, I had limited coverage of my food exploits. Given food has been such a passion of mine since an early age, that disappointed me a little, so increasing my long-standing engagement with food, and combining that with a new-found love of writing became an important change that I wanted to make as we headed South into Mexico and the beginning of a new chapter. Rather than just amend my other outlets of writing to include more about food, I wanted to do something distinct in style and a separate entity to allow me to explore the subject in a more focused manner, and in an open forum.
The idea is that I have a better record of things to help with future ideas for building a life in food, and that in doing so, I push myself to be more adventurous with what I eat; pursue learning more recipes for cooking myself and sharing and, perhaps most importantly, talk to local people more about them, their relationship with food and the history. In these parts of the world, the connection between the food itself, the act and rituals of eating, the history, and community is much more prevalent than at home in the UK, so I want to bring these ideas to the surface to pay them the respect they deserve, and enjoy the experience that it brings. If it so happens that it offers an interesting read for people, then that's a nice ancillary benefit I suppose.
I'll likely eventually turn it into a properly written story of food, places and people, interspersed with recipes. For now, a journal is right for me. I will need to up my camera skills, that's for sure.
As for the changes I need to make to pay the subject the respect it deserves, I'm still building my confidence in how much I talk in detail with people, but I'm getting there. I don't find it easy to strike up a conversation with someone serving me tacos at a stand, when my Spanish has limits and it's an intricate topic with much of the real depth being in the subtlety of language which I may not get all of. I even feel nervous just taking photos of food being made in front of me. But I must persist and experience discomfort to do this right. On other fronts, I'm being much bolder with my ordering of food, and I've started to learn more about cooking some of the things I've been enjoying eating, so it's already changing my journey for the better, as I hoped it would.
This development in purpose around writing isn't without its difficulties over and above nerves of trying to talk to people more. The fact that it's involving eating meat is perhaps the primary conflict for me. I was vegetarian, with a few notable exceptions, for a year before leaving the UK. I found it hard to keep to veggie when travelling, as choice can be an issue, especially in Southern Chile and Argentina. Whilst I could have made this about finding joy in vegetarian food along the way, I felt that wouldn't be the real story of food and the people here. For the most part, vegetarianism just isn't in the vocabulary in Latin America. So, I've made the choice to try to put my guilt about it to the side for now, but to always seek out authentic veggie food, and try to develop vegetarian versions of meat dishes we love from our journey. I'm sure that, as was the case in the first phase of our journey, we'll refrain from using meat when cooking in our van, with very few exceptions- it keeps us balanced and still contributing a bit towards something we care about, and it also pushes me to get creative on the veggie front.
Another difficulty is that I know this will be a pain in the ass for my partner, Jen, who already has to deal with me obsessing about food on a daily basis. Now she's going to have to endure me writing about it and talking about it more, and wanting to go on all kinds of forays. It's all part of the adventure.
Lastly, and maybe the biggest hurdle on my nerves, is following through with my intent to work in some kitchens along the way- for free if necessary- as I'll get so much more from that, and the opportunity for that to change my course in life is so massively increased that it would be stupid not to, just out of fear.
I sometimes daydream about what this could turn into, not so much in terms of the writing itself, but in what it will bring in the way of intrigue, connections, opportunity and adventure. I realised about a year ago, whilst eating a lovely meal in the town of Futaleufu in Southern Chile, that really, I need to be working in food. I don't know in exactly what form, and I also don't know when- by travelling, we're currently spending all the money we would need to put towards any business. As things stand, we likely have about 2-3 years of travel left, which will hopefully include some time in Asia, so that's a long time for things to develop.
My primary focus as a cook at home was more in fine dining/precision dishes. I occasionally worked in the kitchen in Glasgow's best restaurant (in my opinion) to learn more about high end cookery. Whilst I still see that as my true passion, I'm clearly absorbing influence from all these other cuisines along the way, most notably so far, in Peru where the food was outstanding.
So I wonder what all of it will add up to. All these stories, all these flavours, all these connections. All these ideas, really. Right now, I can imagine opening a place back home in the UK that serves up Latin American food done proper- something I feel is lacking somewhat. But who knows, it could be anything from that to running a seasonal street-food stall on a tourist beach in Mexico (a current idea). Right now, all I can do is invest my energy and enjoy the adventure by being more bold and curious, and then just see where it takes me.
So, here goes.
Episode 1.
21st Jan- 6th Feb. 2 weeks in and around Ensenada during mechanical work.
I didn't document much in this phase- it was all about getting work done on our truck and dealing with some of the surrounding issues that required attention. We were pretty much stuck; marooned in out mechanic's garage out of town. So, primarily, we lived off tacos pastor (think spicy marinated and grilled meat) from the place next door- tasty, and at $5 for 10, an absolute steal. Some days, we ate breakfast at the other place next door, sitting next to truckers. Usually that was scrambled eggs with machaca- shredded beef.
In town, before leaving, we had some interesting ceviche- tasty, but not a patch on Peru. And we had Baja style fish tacos- the Baja bit is that they're done in crispy batter.
The thing which I used to find a bit depressing about Mexican food was that, in terms of street eats, at least, it's all about the same set of ingredients, just rearranged differently- tortillas of some kind; meat; chillies; onions; cilantro; lime; tomatoes (red and green); tomatillos; fresh cheese etc etc. I always say that I'm sure the Mexicans have exhausted the mathematical possibilities for different ways to assemble these things. But now, I like that. I feel like it means that I'll always be able to find what I need to make authentic food and try to replicate what I'm eating and learning- our first foray into the supermarket in Ensenada was a treat- just the size of the Chilli section was enough to make me feel emotional.
I know that home cookery in Mexico is about a lot more than tacos and the rest- soups, stews, moles etc, and that it will vary by region as we start to move, so I'm excited about the variety that will come, but looking forward to trying to really nail some of the street eats as that works well for us living in a van, and I'm sure it'll bring a lot of pleasure to those who we feed. Læs mere