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Top End Treading
Top End Treading

Top End Treading

Our ambition is to circumnavigate Australia...one piece at a time. Read more🇦🇺Melrose Park
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  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Rainy Saturday at Ceduna

    August 31, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Bought the weekend paper, and a magazine. Settled down and read this morning. It's still quite warm, but rain is forcast for this afternoon. Ian and I did go for a lovely walk along the beach, but otherwise we are just enjoying one of our final days before home. A caravanning neighbour brought some chocolate biscuits over. What a lovely thing to do!Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Shelly beach CP Ceduna

    August 30, 2019 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    This morning was our first day back in SA. We are heading for Ceduna tonight, over 400km away.
    On route we drove down to Head of Bight.
    49 whales have been spotted today many with calves. Two of the calves are white apparently. Around 5% of right whale calves are born white, but few adult white whales are ever seen.
    It was a glorious day, but very windy. I could see no more than 10 whales but that was okay! One of the calves played around a bit, practicing his breaching techniques. Ian got a couple of good photographs. It is certainly an experience not to be missed.
    At the SA quarantine station I was found to have carrots and a red capsicum in the car fridge...neither of which I was aware of! I was allowed to keep the carrot but lost my capsicum!
    We called into the Beachfront CP but they were full. We were instructed to go to the Shelly Beach cp as they had room. This park is out of town a fair way, but right on the beach. The forcast is for rain and strong winds tomorrow, but I think I would still like to stay another night. We have been travelling hard over the past week. So that is what we are doing. Leave here on Sunday!    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Just before Head of Bight

    August 29, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    We drove pretty steadily across the Nullabor. Just stopping for lunch, and petrol. Where Diesel costs from $1.35 in Perth, because we are so far from anywhere here, we can pay anything up to $2 a liter or more. The clocks have gone back 1.30hrs, once we crossed into SA. To soften the blow, at the start of the Nullabor (yesterday) a road sign advised to put your watch back by 45mins. Ian would have none of that!! We ate the last of the tomatoes and cucumber with soup for lunch....we just stopped at a lay by at the top of Eucla Gap. What a view we had..amazing. To top it all, the sun was shining , and it was a glorious lunch. However, we now have minimal food left, and still another day- perhaps two to travel! We pulled into another 24hr stop about 30km from Head of Bight for the night.Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Moonera Tank rest area

    August 28, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We were now on the Nullabor, driving along 90mile straight...the longest stretch of straight road in Australia. Lots of road kill evident, and one or two eagles eating the fallen. Mostly Crows and Ravens though. They say that Crows and Ravens are the fastest growing bird group. Edging out the native Birds of Prey.
    We passed several spots where others were playing the Nullabor Golf link....the longest golf course in the world. We have our certificate from last year. We also met other travelers that we had crossed paths with along our journey. This time a couple from NSW.
    Ian drove just over 400kms today, and we got to our camp site just after 4pm.    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Ten mile rock

    August 27, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Another free camp, but because we travelled less than 300km, we were there in plenty of time to set out the solar panels. They did a beautiful job charging the caravan battery. It was a lovely little camp, with lots of Salmon Red Gums, and native birds. There were 5 of us camped overnight. Only one long drop between us!
    I was astounded to find that I could receive phone calls and was able to speak to Julie. Her brother was very ill, but thankfully, now seems on the mend.
    Baby Red got an airing tonight, and we starting using all the vegetables before crossing the SA border. I made Ratatouille and Ian cooked chicken on the barbie, which we ate sitting around a fabulous campfire.    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Kalgoolie Boulder.

    August 26, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Last one to leave by a long chalk....the rest were away about 8am!
    Lovely salmon gums line the roadside, and some of the gums have started flowering. I think we are probably a couple of weeks too early to see all the flowers in their glory. Apparently the season is late this year.
    We stopped for lunch just after one, at another 24hr stop, which had it's own 'pet' magpie. She would sit on the table and catch the crumbs that Ian would throw.
    We had another 200km to go, so we hit the road again after a pit stop.
    Kalgoolie Centenial park is the next stop. It has flushing toilets Yeh! It really is a very pleasant place with lots of green grass. The flags in the park were at half mast because the Rt Hon Tim Fisher was being buried today.    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Merredin

    August 25, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    We left Perth driving into the hills via the Golden Pipeline Historical Trail or Eastern Highway.We debated driving on toward Southern Cross, but the campsite at Merredin we had stayed at before, so settled there about 14.30.
    We were the first to arrive. It is a sprawling campsite amongst the gums, at the base of a granite hill. The railway used the rain runoff by channeling it into a reservoir beside our camp. On top off the granite hill wild flowers were starting to bloom. We saw some native orchids, but most were only just starting to flower. By the time we climbed the hill and returned to the campsite, 3 other caravans had parked.
    On the way here we stopped at Kellerberrin for lunch. It was a pretty quiet town. An IGA was open, but nothing else. However as we sat with soup and dip, next to the railway line, the Indian Pacific passed.
    This evening, black cockatoos circled above, squawking loudly. Luckily (or not) we had telstra coverage, so could watch TV on our phones. England won the test Cricket by one point.    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler
    1

    Stocked up and heading home

    August 24, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    We need enough food to get us through the Nullabor but still not too much, as all veggies need to be eaten or cooked before the SA border. So we did a shop in Aldi, then crossed the road to Callington Shopping Mall (enormous place) and Ian got his hair cut. We had time after lunch to go to Fremantle, where they had a lovely little market. I bought a string of dried seed heads, before Ian could talk me out of it! Dan Murphys for grog, (trying to avoid the $35 bottles of Jacob's Creek from the Rd Houses along the Nullabor).
    We are leaving our quirky CP, with it's over abundance of permanents behind!    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Perth

    August 23, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    We tried booking into several Caravan Parks in Perth before leaving Yanchep. All were full. We thought we had struck it lucky at the 3rd park. Yep, no problems, he had spaces. Too easy! It appears this caravan park was directly underneath the flight path from Perth Airport. One review said it was fun to download the radar app, so that you could identify the flights destination. It was also Perths newest CP.
    On the way, we stopped and got two new tyres fitted. It was raining pretty steadily at this time, so I went for a wander around some nearby op shops. I came back with two cheap raincoats. Both from the same maker, but one was from the Salvos ($10) and the other from Vinnies ($8).
    We set up in the CP, and yes, it looked very new, but they seemed to have several shabby permanent residents. We were warned by passerbys not to leave anything outside, as it may 'walk'. Lovely toilets though!
    We went to the DFO just a few minutes away. Ian managed to buy two new coats within 20mins of arriving.
    I downloaded the flight app!    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler
    1

    Yanchep NP

    August 22, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Rain is forcast for today, so it is a bit of a race to get to our campsite before it starts. At least we know that having booked it this morning we have secured our space. We went to Yanchep last year, and although very close to Perth, it is full of kangaroos koalas and birds.
    We stopped for lunch at Jurien Bay, and walked down to the jetty. We were lucky enough to watch a dolfin just lazing around in the water.
    At Yancep, we sat around the campfire chatting until the rain came...and it was heavy! No wonder it is so green here. Such a contrast from the bush and deep red soil, to the verdant green farmlands of the past 24hrs.    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler
    1

    Dongora

    August 21, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    We had spotted a free camp offered by the council, in Geraldton. Having never visited there before, we thought this would be good. We arrived around 11.30, and it was full. Only 8 sites were allocated to caravans...but it wasn't to be. Bedsides, it was just a big carpark, even though it was by the sea. We set off heading towards Whitecliffs, which is a beautiful free camp on the beach, with turquoise sea and chalk white cliffs as a backdrop. We stayed there last year, and just loved it!
    On our way we stopped at Northampton for coffee and a very rich but delicious vanilla slice. Ian and I shared one piece, but even that was almost too much. The town had model painted sheep dotted around the town. Also iron cutouts depicting the towns history.
    Our camping plans changed again when we where going through Dongora. Just off the main road, was a green grassy site, with 3 caravans parked. It looked pleasant and had a good feel about it.
    We parked beside a group of two caravans travelling together. They were washing their car with an Aldi power spray, and they could talk!!!!
    We left them to it, and walked to the beach. It turned out to be a little further than anticipated. We walked around 10km, but It was a beautiful day -26 degrees, and no wind. We walked along a boardwalk with pelicans asleep on the beach, or swimming in the water. On the return journey, we stopped at a tavern for a beer, and cold glass of wine as our reward.    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Nerrin Nerrin 24hr Road stop

    August 20, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    With everything fully charged, we headed off. 4 hrs later, after a roadside stop for lunch, we pulled into our home for the night. As soon as we turned in we both recognized staying here before. This was where we fed curry to a lone cyclist from America.
    The wildflowers are starting to appear. With little rain to sustain them, they are a wonderous sight. I wish I knew how to take photographs of the night sky too. It was majestic. A satellite passed over while we watched. A beautiful place to spend the night. For every ying there must be a yang...flies, and drop toilets for me.    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler
    Sunrise over the NASA Satellite dish

    Carnarvan

    August 19, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    We booked into the Wintersun CP in Carnarvan as we left Minilya. It was probably a wise thing to do, as the park was pretty full by evening.
    The caravan battery was low, and just about everything needed recharged. I was looking forward to using a flushing toilet again.
    I also love it when we are guided into our site...takes the pressure off me. It was a lovely little CP, and reminded me of Butlins. The Tanoy announcement let all the patrons know of the Beginners Boot Scooting session on at 9.30 tomorrow morning, Tomorrow night is spud night with singing entertainment provided. At the back of the CP was the bowls club! They even hired out bowls if required.
    We went into the town and restocked, then walked along the shore front. Carnarvon is a big food growing area with the River Gascoyne flowing into the Indian Ocean and providing the water to sustain the large Banana plantations around. The river was last running in Feburary this year, but the blerb by the beach states that it is a river which also runs about 10ft underground.
    A new statue on the hill depicts a young aboriginal girl and boy, watching their parents being removed to the Islands. I didn't quite understand what it was all about though. Still it was a good sculpture.
    The mile long jetty was still closed for repair. Pity.    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Minilia Riverside

    August 18, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Last night was very cold, so this morning the quilt went back on the bed, we have had a good month without it.
    We went through the Tropic of Capricorn yesterday, and it's only going to get colder from now on!
    We called into Coral Beach and reversed beautifuly into a space, before walking down to the beach. It is just so incredibly beautiful. The water was a little cool, so no swimming, but paddling fitted the bill.
    Coffee and pasty/pie for lunch. Then on to Minilia River for our stop tonight.
    It was a huge dust bowl. I don't know the last time the river had any water in it. The wind was whipping the dust about. But we had internet, and Ian was able to watch the footie, and cricket. No fire....but at least we would be warm in bed tonight!    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Heading to Ningalo

    August 17, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    The showers and toilets were good in the Shell station, so I had a lovely hot shower. Ian checked the tyre pressure of car and caravan, and we bought a new gas bottle at the service station before we left. One of our caravan tyres is looking very dodgy, so we just hope we can get to Perth before we need to replace it.
    Stopped at Peedamulla for coffee - free biscuit thrown in - at a roadhouse, in the complete middle of nowhere. Lunch at Nanutarra, and arrived at our free camp at Barrowdale (Yannarie) about 4pm. Huge place, with about 50 caravans dotted around the place. Drop toilets, but clean. We had Telstra reception, which meant Ian could listen to the cricket test match in England. He had already watched the Crows get thrashed earlier, and they were playing at home!    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler
    1

    Stairway to the moon

    August 16, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Arrived at Karratha...dont feel like it was a year ago that I was here last. The town itself is modern and very well maintained. Green grass, and modern housing.
    We stayed in the Shell Petrol station, about 12km outside Karratha, which had free toilets, and a hot shower. When we arrived, we were the only ones + a backpacker car. They provide this massive carpark for the truckies to rest overnight, but have included an area designated for Caravans, Boats and Trailers. We unhitched, left the van parked, and headed into town.
    We bought a couple of wine glasses in Target, (to replace the one that I had broken), and stocked up on wine.
    Then we went to see Steve, who was our neighbour for a month, in the CP last year.
    He had a new friend staying, 'Y' from NZ, who had arrived in Karratha just after we left. She was a cleaner for the mines, but had had seven jobs in the 10 months since she arrived.
    Still it was good to see Steve again.
    Then we travelled to Hearsons Cove to witness Stairway to the Moon. Truly beautiful. We were very lucky, as we arrived to a packed beach, but drove into a spot which must have just been vacated. Perfect!
    When we returned to the Shell Station, we had 2 caravans as neighbours. Safety in numbers.
    It was the first night since katherine, that it was too cold to sit outside.    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Raining in the Pilbara

    August 15, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    We had this lovely site in the golf course, between two gums, so decided to stay another day here. We booked and paid last night, then we discovered that it was going to rain. That is virtually unheard of up here. It didn't rain heavily, but it did last on and off all day. I cooked for a good part of the day, Ian went for a long walk. He said that two young guys stopped and offered him a lift. That was nice. It shows that not tymany people are seen pounding the red earth around here. I had missed mummy's birthday, which was yesterday, so when we went to see (if we could see) the Stairway to the Moon, I phoned her on Viber. Technology will never fail to amaze me. From the beach in Port Headland to Lisburn NI.
    Too many clouds to see the moon rise...so we went home.    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Lianne and Jeff

    August 14, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    We decided to stay at the golf club in South Hedland. We had only 130km to travel, after our big haul yesterday. We were the first of the day to arrive, apparently so we got the best spot! In among the gums, with plenty of shade. Our neighbour advised us to park in the middle, or they would try and squeeze someone else in too. So we did, and had a lovely big site with plenty of shade.
    We went to the Information center, and left with an itinerary: first we watched the pilots guide the big container ships into port, then we followed the coast around. The tide was out, so mud flats were the go around here. We ended up at Pretty Pool, and it was true to its name. A quick paddle, and back to the van for a shower before meeting Lianne and Jeff for tea.
    We paid $25 for water, power and the key to use the toilet and shower in the Golf Club. Bargain, as some the other CP were charging up to $50.
    We met Jeff waiting for us at the Lodge Motel, and I gave Lianne her injection for psoriasis. We had a huge meal at the smorgasbord in their canteen. All available for the miners, and Lianne charged it to the post office! It was good to see them both again.    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    80 mile beach

    August 13, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    On the road again, hoping to stay in the Caravan Park in Eighty mile beach. You can't book, but they have 150 powered sites. We stopped for lunch at a 24hr rest stop, which would have been a great stop, but not far enough out of Broome. I was pleased to get to speak to Stuart, who is having trouble with his visa.
    We drove along a very ordinary featureless road and finally got to the turn off for the CP after 3pm. Still 10kms of dirt road to get there! We met another caravan just at the start of the road, and he was exiting. No powered sites available! And the road is heavily corrugated. The next stop is Pardoo Roadhouse, 98kms on. We got there after 4pm. A long day driving for Ian. Charged everything. Every electricity socket was in use! Pity we didn't get to visit 80 mile beach though!    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Heading down

    August 12, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Last day in Broome. Ian was awake a good part of the night with coughs and a runny nose. We left after lunch and I managed to buy a sea pearl, half price, on an anklet/ bracelet. Ian bought Charlotte a fresh water pearl necklace, for her birthday, which I think will appeal to her bigtime!
    We then went to Gantheaume point to check out the view, and the dinosaur footprints.
    We left for cable beach to watch the sun go down. We were not the only ones with the same idea!    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Cable Beach closed!

    August 11, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    I did a wash this morning and fought with the sheets trying to hang them on the line,in what seemed like gale force winds!
    Leaving the CP for Broome, we could see the blackest ball of smoke rising into the sky. We tried to drive to the viewpoint at Gantheaume, but this road was closed by police, Cable beach was also closed. We had a picnic lunch instead at the deep water Port. This was also closed for repair, however, there was a steady stream of road trains delivering live cattle for shipment to ?Indonesia.
    We met another couple from Adelaide. They live in the hills outside Handorf in a little township that I had never heard of, called Paechtown.
    We went to the Malcom Douglas Crocadile Park this afternoon. It was really good.....plenty of nasty crocodiles! They have over 2500 living here, and they apparently produce extremely high quality leather!
    The Crows were playing in Perth tonight. Ian watched on his phone. They lost buy 2 goals...but played well!    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    The Gateway to Broome

    August 10, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    With the wind still behind us, we made good time and arrived at our new home for the next 3 days. A large camp, consisting of blocks of red dirt. Hot and windy too. No power, only water.
    We had lunch and headed off to Broome. The Information center was of little help, but we wandered round the town. However, being a country town, the shops all close at 2pm on a Saturday. We called into the Roebuck Bay Hotel, and it wasn't until Ian pointed it out that I realised that several of the barmaids were dressed only in skimpy bra and knickers.
    There was a campfire at 5.30 back at base, with happy hour. Luke was cooking his sausages, and Dan lit the fire. Luke showed me a video of his friends caravan exploding and burning all the family's possessions. An electrical fault apparently. Luke was travelling, and picking up manual jobs as he went. Another guy came over with his dog Spot. He introduced himself as being from the thick country!!! Apparently this means thick scrub. His dog was a Pig dog, that hunted wild pigs. Never seen anything like it! Seemed a little bit like Hillbilly stuff.    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Derby

    August 9, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Ian and I were both a little concerned about the lack of movement coming from Young Frank's (the man with the Britonies) caravan. To the extent we phoned him before we hit the road again. All was well, he reasured us. So off we headed, to our powered site at Willare Roadhouse, 48km from Derby. We parked, had a very unhealthy lunch, and plugged in everything we could to recharge. Travelling up to Derby we passed so many Boab trees. It is believed the first Boab tree arrived on Australian soil over 2000 years ago, washed up from Matagaska. Some of the trees still alive in the area are incredibly large. We found Woolworths and BWS, and then for a walk along the pier. The tide was way out, and what water can be seen on the mudflats was a mucky brown colour. Derby experiences one of the largest tides in the world, with a high tide reaching as much as 11 metres. Derby was a pleasant town, and the rodeo was on this weekend, however, we couldn't find where exactly.
    I managed to grab a seed from a Boab on the way home. We also called into the Boab prison tree on our journey back to the Roadhouse.    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Fitzroy Crossing

    August 8, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    What a lovely campsite,at Mary Pool. Even the long drops are good! Heading to another free camp outside Fritzroy Crossing. Stopped in F C for coffee. It could have been a coffee shop on a main street in Perth. It was a revelation. They where growing their own vegetables outside, and the food in the cafe looked fantastic.
    We drove on to Ellendale, and stayed in an extremely popular rest area. Packed full by 1400! We met a dog breeder from Victoria. Frank Tate, who has two magnificant dogs with him. Britonys.    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Mary Pool Rest Area

    August 7, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    Because of the time difference in WA, we were up at the crack of dawn, and on the road before 8.30. We stopped and had a coffee at an aboriginal managed roadhouse. Brumbies were drinking from a trough in front of the petrol pumps, and we had already passed several on the side of the road. One of the Aboriginal workers came over to chat. He addressed Ian as 'hey cowboy' could you ride one of those?' He said they were pretty gentle, and the local kids were learning to ride on them.
    Just before Halls Creek, we passed about 4 New Age caravans, and I did my usual mad waving...to minimal response. We also burst a tyre on our caravan. Ian is a champion, and we were back on the road within the hour. Only one person stopped to see if we were okay. Puts Australian Mateship in doubt! Halls Creek was small, and as you would expect full of Aboriginals. Plenty of road trains too. One hit and killed a dog while passing down the main street. It was the dogs fault but still pretty gruesome. Lots of dogs were just roaming around the town.
    We drove on for another 118km to Mary Pool rest area, which was an absolute delight, and full of like minded people.    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Final goodbyes

    August 6, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Said goodbye to Walter and Silvia, they were staying an extra night in Timber Creek, and we were heading to Halls Creek.
    Silvia gave me their card, and a fan from the gift shop! I gave her a hug.
    We dropped into lake Argyle, and it was stunning, but very crowded so we left again! I tried picking some fruit from the Kapok tree, but just couldn't reach!
    We stopped overnight about 50km outside Kununurra. Just bought some Diesel but no food. We had left NT, and left all our veggies in the old folks box in Timber Creek.
    We took a quick trip down to the creek to see if any Freshies were around. No joy, but we must have carried 20 mozzie back into the car. We were swatting them out of the car for hours!    Read more

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