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Road trip to Darwin
  • Top End Treading

Road trip to Darwin

Could be our last big road trip to the top end. Ian and I hope to visit Lake Eyre, Darwin, Broome and all the bits between Read more
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  • Trip start
    June 27, 2019
    Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Port Pirie

    June 27, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Arrived in Port Pirie Caravan Park. Still before nightfall when we got here. Better than last time when we missed the entrance all together in the dark! Both of us are feeling pretty grotty with the cold/ flu. Staying two nights to try and recover. Still walked 9km over the course of the morning, walking around the town, and then out to our favourite- Aldi! Ian bought a light fleece in an op shop for $6 and should have bought a raincoat in a bag...on sale in Aldi (he forgot his).Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler
    1

    Leigh Creek

    June 29, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Woke to heavy rain this morning in Port Pirie. We had the most stunning drive through the Flinders Ranges on the way here. Outstanding! We passed the Pichi Richi steam train coming from Port Augusta, and stopped for a coffee in Quorn. The annual marathon had taken place this morning, and we saw on the news last night, that around 200 people where expected to take up the challenge of running from Port Augusta to Quorn. There was no sign of any runners, but a lot of people must have been on the train judging by the cars in the car park! We had lunch in the local cafe!!!! And we had about the most expensive hotdogs ever @$15 each! On to Leigh Creek. A very windy night! Ian was talking to a Dutch motorcyclist, who had just come from William's Creek. He had tried to drive to the lake...but said it was impossible to get to on land. As you neared the water, the salt crust became soggy, and he got bogged down. We will head to Maree in the morning and enquire about a flight.Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler
    1

    Marree

    June 30, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Headed to Marree this morning. No wind to speak of, so the driving was easy. We took a spin round Leigh Creek township. It felt really weird. No people to be seen. A few cars in driveways, but we were the only people on the road. Empty Foodland, post office, Police Station. Just a ghost town. Pretty sad really.
    Next stop was Farina, to sample the pies from the underground bakery. Farina is a town that saw it's last inhabitant in the 1960s. However it is being renovated by volunteers from the caravan and camping association. They have the old bakery up and running again and during June and July they produce fresh bread, pies, and pastries to help raise money. They are always on the lookout for volunteers to help with the building work.
    In Marree we parked in the Hotel carpark, and booked our flight over Lake Eyre. We have to wait two days to do it but hopefully we won't be disappointed. $550 each for a two hour flight. The car park is free with just a gold coin donation for the use of a shower and toilet. By evening there was very little room left in the carpark, and the Hotel was buzzing!    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler
    Camel Riders Red

    Lake Eyre South

    July 1, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    We are still both suffering from sore throats and dry irritating coughs. It was a slow start this morning, with cough meds, panadol, throat spray and nasonex on the menu. Still, after a chat with Geraldine, (a 'grey nomad' who ,along with her husband, have volunteered to work at the pub for 5 months), she suggested we stay for the camel races over the weekend. We had planned to stay until Wednesday anyway, so staying until Saturday doesn't seem too outrageous. The pub seems much busier today, with a lot of caravans coming and going. We headed off along the dirt road to Lake Eyre north after lunch. The first 50km was a great road, better than some tarmac ones, but when the road forked - one heading off to Muloorina Station, the other to lake Eyre South. It was a different kettle of fish! Very corrugated and rutted for another 50km! When we came to the end of the road, a few other cars were present. We walked over the Dunes to see vast areas of what appeared to be mud flats!!! Pretty disappointing!!
    We called into the pub for a glass on return, and bought a bottle of Red...a very amusing red called Camel Riders Red. The label in particular was worth the cost!    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler
    Marree Man

    Lake Eyre North

    July 2, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    We were up bright and early to catch our flight over Marree Man and then Lake Eyre North. We expected to be on a small 5 seater plane, but instead were on the 14 seater 'caravan' which seemed quite appropriate. Ian and I both sat at window seats, and therefore had good views to photograph the lake in all its glory. We had met our next door neighbours while waiting to board. Neil and Barbara. Barbara liked to talk a lot, and so over the course of an hour I learnt all there was to know about their family history , and even more. They were also travelling, and had an impressive setup. Anyway, Neil chose to sit on his knees at the back of the plane, while Barbara sat beside the pilot to help combat her air sickness. It was a fantastic experience and I thoroughly enjoyed it. We flew over the flood waters still streaming into the lake which in itself was incredible. The bird life was growing, mostly Pelicans at the moment, which could be seen far below. Our 2 hour flight was over all too soon, but will be a lasting memory of our trip.Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    A quiet day

    July 3, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    We are really just biding our time until the weekend. We recharged the car battery and sorted out the caravan. I cleaned the fridge, and Ian cleaned the car fridge. We have enough food to last us a couple more days and everything looks good.
    Gradually our colds are improving, although my voice is still quite creaky, but we are both coughing less. The carpark is full every night, with perhaps two other couples spending time like us. Our solar panal has proved a godsend. We only tried it today for the first, ....brilliant. so we have enough power to be able to watch videos after dinner each night.
    We walked to the other pub/post office/ service station/ grocery store this afternoon. We called into the Yacht club, and Ian bought a cap. We also found the Mosque, originally built for the Muslim Afghanistan Camel herders.
    We had met some young Muslim boys a few nights ago, who offered us a seat by their fire. They had made the journey to pray at the mosque at sunrise in memory of the camel traders.    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Day trip to Roxby

    July 4, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    We head off to Roxby Downs this morning. 183km of dirt road. Over 80km along the Oodnadattaa track, before the turn off. This was our trial run to see what the road might be like before committing ourselves with the van behind us. Most of the road was good - the rough patches were small - so that's where we are heading on Sunday morning with the van behind us. We passed some ?aboriginal sculptures about 50km along the Oodnadatta track. A steady stream of travelers were stopping to have a look. Us included!
    Roxby Downs is described as a 'Green Town in the desert...and it is. It is serviced by Olympic Dam, and has a very well stocked Woolworths. Worth the journey to get here, after our unanticipated length of stay at Marree. We bought a few things and went to a pie shop for lunch...then back home before dark. We just made it. The carpark was very busy and we had nowhere to park our car! Our neighbours tonight had been on the other side of the van yesterday. They were farmers from Queensland. He piloted a powered hangglider, and had flown down the birdsville track. They seemed to be sleeping in the back of their Ute. This morning they had flown over the Marree man, and planned to fly out over the lake tomorrow. We must have left the outside lights on after they went to bed, and we found black tape covering them when we got up! The farmers from Queensland were obviously resourceful too!    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Welcome party at Marree Hotel

    July 5, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Lazy day...not much happens at Marree! We read, cleaned, and went to the Camel race Welcome party.
    Ian emptied the toilet cassette....not as simple as it sounds! He had to drive to a proper bonified CP, and pay $10!
    Tonight however we stood around empty beer keg fires blazing outside the pub, with Paul Costa singing. He was great. I loved it! There must have been about 150 people standing around singing and dancing.
    We came home with a couple (or more) wine glasses. Shame🙄    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Last day at Marree Camel Race

    July 6, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Off to the camel races! What can I say. Then watched the Crows get smashed by Port on the Hotel TV. We also heard of a tragic plane crash in Leigh Creek. Two were killed flying back from their visit to Marree and flight over lake Eyre. Thankfully it wasn't our farming neighbours from a few days ago, but both were couples from Queensland. Last day here.Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Along the Oodnadatta with the Van

    July 7, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Mass exodus from the Hotel Carpark this morning. We left at around 9.45. It seemed like a big day for both of us...and we were both concentrating very hard. The first time with the Van driving on a dirt road for over 100km! What would happen if.....anyway, we were almost home and dry - when we burst a tyre 20km from the end of the dirt road. We had travelled over 150kms by that point! What a bummer. But it wasn't on the caravan....which was what I had expected...but on the car! Ian was amazing and it was sorted in no time. We arrived in Clean Green Roxby Downs non the worse for wear around 2pm. Inside the van, the oven door handle had shaken off on one side, and the bottom of the fridge door had fallen off....all easily fixable.Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Housekeeping in Roxby

    July 8, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    I did three washes today....which required 12 dollar coins. I had 11 coins, but after finishing the first wash, there was a dollar rattling around in the bottom of the washing machine!! God is good! And the Universe looks after it's own!
    Changed the bed and washed 10days worth of clothes. We replaced a gas cylinder, fixed a tyre, and bought some groceries at Woolworths. The tyre cost over $500 dollars....scary. I had a lovely time vacuum sealing all the meat. It is a very therapeutic pastime. We also drove out to Andamooka, an opal mining town on a smaller scale to Coober Pedy....we didn't even get out of the car...which was sad, it all seemed pretty bleak, and if there was a town centre we couldn't find it! I phoned my mum, and had a great chat.    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler
    1

    Gravel Pit free camp along the Stuart Hi

    July 9, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Our aim was to camp overnight at Lake Hart. We stopped for coffee about 1 1/2hours into our trip, at Pimba. Ian also ordered a Chicco roll, and I had chicken on a skewer. Apparently called a kebab! We passed through Woomera which was looking much fresher than our previous camping visit in 2015. There were an amazing amount of caravans, both parked and passing through. Almost every vehicle we passed coming towards us was either a caravan camper or trailer. Not surprisingly Lake Hart was also teeming with Van's. It seems that you need to be ensconced there from very early in the morning. We passed on! The next free camp was about 50kms away, but directions were poor, and we were past the turn off before we realised. 50km further on from there was the Gravel pit. We had the place to ourselves, and lit the most glorious fire, after watching the sunset....which are always worth watching in the desert. And when the sun goes down, the flies go away.....they are almost in plague proportions out here!Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Overnight in Cadney Park

    July 10, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Cadney Park is a Road House along the Stuart Highway, about 200km past Coober Pedy. We passed through Coober Pedy around midday, and filled up with petrol. At the side of the road ( beside a childrens park) we had lunch. Ian sat outside initially, but came inside after he had finished his soup. The wind was whipping up the red dust to an uncomfortable amount. Ian's soup bowl was ringed in red, and even opening the door filled the caravan with dust. I was very glad we weren't staying here. However the wind continued until Cadney Park, which proved to cost us a lot more in Desiel. We stayed unpowered, for $20, which allowed us the use of toilets, and showers. No fire tonight, but we still sat outside and retired early. I met a WA farmers wife while having a shower. She had just driven down the Oodnadatta track, bursting two tyres on her journey. Money was obviously not an issue, as she had specifically come from Perth to fly over Lake Eyre...a 6 hour flight for her! We also met a slightly odd young man, who had inherited his grandparents caravan. It had an hydraulic system which lifted the rigid roof up making the van twice the height when stationary. When travelling the top of the van folded down fitting over the bottom half.Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Free camp at Desert Oaks RA

    July 11, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Great camp! Red soil and scrub. Luckily our new neighbour from Streaky Bay (driving a big converted bus) had packed some wood with them, as the camp was picked clean! Graham and Maureen were seasoned campers, so we sat around a lovely fire sharing a beer. About 30- 40 campers, caravans and a bus shared this spot, with great toilets- even if they were long drops. You start to spot the same campers from other stops and many were here. We had to join a queue at Kulgera, for petrol. While Ian waited, I went into the pub and bought a couple of bottles of Shiraz. The choice wasn't what make of wine, but simply Shiraz or Merlot. Definitely a man's outback pub! Bras and knickers hung from the rafters. And with the amount of shoes hanging from the hills hoist outside, I guess many left this place with fewer things to pack in their Van's!
    We were now in the Northern Territory. Big skies, and red dirt!    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Wintersun CP Alice Springs

    July 12, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Got the last spot in the place, thankfully we were directed into the tight little spot in the corner. Ian made friends with Ken and Pam who were travelling farmers from southern NSW. They were in their late 70's and were finding the task of putting their trailer tent up and down a struggle. I am very grateful for my caravan! We went into the town and Ian bought some postcards while I bought a pair of bather bottoms! Laura is coming for tea tomorrow night so will have to plan a hot easy meal...not too warm here!Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    2nd day in Alice

    July 13, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    We discovered this morning that a lot of our underwear was missing....presumably still hanging from the washing line in Roxby. My fault! I mean, who would want to steal them!! Anyway we managed to replace them in Woolworths of all places! Ian got bond jocks and socks, and I, new knickers and socks. I had really liked my thick warm cotton socks which I had bought in Tassie...all gone! This afternoon we went to the Desert Park and watched the flying bird display. Outstanding!
    Laura came round this evening for tea...it was so cold. We ended up huddled together in the caravan. Down to 2 degrees overnight! Brrrr    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    3rd day in Alice Springs

    July 14, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    I needed to return my new underwear...I had lifted the wrong size! So we headed out to Simpson's Gap via Woolworths. I would meet Ian at the Information center on the next street. A street market was on and Alice was buzzing! Ian got talking to one of the women staffing the Info C. And next thing we are driving 130 odd km to Ormiston Gorge. We had lunch in the carpark with the flies, then started walking! That was a little bit of a misnomer as it seemed to be mainly climbing over rocks! It was slow going at times, but beautiful! It also became apparent that it would be dark by the time we finished this 7km hike, at the rate we were moving! We spotted some people joining our route from a different path, so we joined the Ghost Gum track, which climbed up to a view point at the top of the gorge. All very beautiful! It was 6pm by the time we returned to the CP. We then went to the Gillen Club for dinner. Pub Fare, but good.Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    On the road to Tennant Creek

    July 15, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    We managed to manoeuvre our way out of the caravan Park quite easily in the end...but only because the guy opposite us also left this morning, so we drove through his site back onto the road! We stopped for fuel at Alleron, and took snaps of the giant Aboriginal statues around the road house. They were fantastic! We also bought some Aboriginal Art. We were heading to Barrow Creek WW11 site...once used as a stop over by the Americans on the way to Darwin. Great camp. No facilities but very picturesque. There was a full moon and we lit a fire. Life felt good!Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Attack Creek

    July 16, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Leaving our lovely free camp this morning I noticed paw prints quite clearly, moving around the outside of our caravan...Dingos! Glad we didn't leave anything edible around. I had to trudge over the Bush with my foldable spade from Aldi this morning. The grass had frost on it, so it was nippy. Put my jacket, gloves and trusty blanket round my knees and waited for the sun to warm me up while I drank my coffee. On the road we stopped for diesel where they promote alien landings...we also spotted a young German guy, who had broken down on the side of the road yesterday. He was using LPG and his car preferred petrol! Also stopped at the Devils Marbles. Then lunch in the carpark at Tennant Creek Mining centre.
    We drove on to our free camp destination which was chocker's! And dirty! All the bins were full. Feral cats wandered around at night. But it had clean toilets (long drops).    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Daly Waters

    July 17, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Last but one to leave our overnight stop. The wind was behind us, and we headed to the iconic Daily Waters pub and CP. We have been listening to books along the way, and finished off 'The Boy Who Swallowed the Universe' today. Very wordy Australian book....different. Changing landscape again, with a lot more green apparent. More cows...similar to those we saw in WA. And getting warmer!
    Daly Waters pub is the most Australian of Australian pubs! $10 pp per night. No power or water , but toilets and hot showers! Some locals around, but mostly tourists like ourselves. We had a couple of beers and chatted away the rest of the afternoon. Put my shorts on!    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Heading to Katherine

    July 18, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Less than 300km to travel today. We were on the road by 9.30. Ian spoke to the young German guy again, who was also camped at Daly Waters. They are heading back...he has now lost his phone!
    We stopped for lunch in a truck rest stop. The driver had hurt his head and had a bandage wound around his head from chin to the top of his head. He looked like one of those old sketches of people with toothaches. He was knocking all the red dirt off his wheels before getting on the weigh bridge. Then he was going to hospital!
    Unbeknown to us, Katherine's Show is on this weekend...so the place is buzzing. I managed to get a bathing costume, and Ian found the Information center. We took a walk down to the hot springs...looks just beautiful!    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Katherine Gorge

    July 19, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    The Katherine show is on, but were yesterday, the town was just full of aborigines, today, the town seemed empty. We went to Katherine Gorge and climbed up to the lookout. A woman up there was pointing out a sunbathing Crocodile down below, but hard as I tried, I couldn't see anything. Ian saw it though. We had a picnic lunch on the lovely green lawn before heading off to Edith Falls. The Ghan provides lunch for its passengers here, all white table cloths and champagne glasses. It was a beautiful spot.
    I went for a swim in Edith Falls....very cold. Signs warning of crocs everywhere! Short swim, then out. My new bathers did the job well enough. A young girl lent me her noodle, which was nice. She was too frightened to get into the water further than her knees!
    We tried to extend our stay here. It was a nice CP and Ian was feeling tired...but no joy.
    Watched the Crows get beaten again...but how good to have TV reception!    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler
    11

    Mary River Road House

    July 20, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

    We stopped for lunch at Pine Crossing, which looked like a lively little place, heavily frequented by tourists, in vans like ours, and tourist buses. Also rowdy natives at night apparently. Then we entered Kakadu . I had bought a National Park pass online for $60 which covered both of us.
    We saw a lot of burnt undergrowth, and smoke in the distance which may well have contributed to what occurred later!. We were staying at the Mary River roadhouse, and were squeezed in between a Camper van, and two caravans. The boss/ owner had a massive rifle holder attached to his buggy, which he says he uses to shoot buffalo, wild dogs and boars! Then he feeds them to his dogs!
    We also met Walter and Silvia who sat with us over tea. They were heading in the same direction as us, so hopefully we meet again. After Walter and Silvia had departed, Ian and I spotted a flickering light in the distance... getting larger. It just looked like a fire growing and getting out of control! I eventually spoke to the boys sitting around the fire next door. Oh, the rising moon.....they said...and sure enough...from their view point this huge yellow sphere was rising into the sky!!! Doh!    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Exploring the Kakadu Ranges

    July 21, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    We said goodbye to Walter and Silvia this morning. They were heading to Yellow Water sunset cruise, before Jabiru.
    We went 6km up the road and came across a beautiful plunge pool, complete with fish! A young couple and their 9 month old baby,were already there having a swim. The water looked crystal clear. Then off to a lookout another 25km away. It was a hot and sticky climb! The third place on our itinerary was 38km down a dirt road. We passed a caravan with a broken axle within 60metres from the start of this very very corrugated road, and we swung round and gave this road a pass! We also forgot to pack any lunch...so Ian ate raw bacon, and nuts, I had hummus and nuts!
    In the pub tonight we met Jill and partner from Mandurah. Both bowlers! I pigged out on the free bar snacks tonight...lovely spring rolls and samosas - definitely not on the diet list!    Read more

  • Top End TreadingRoad trip to DarwinTraveler

    Jabiru

    July 22, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    The landscape is changing as we travel through the Kakadu. Glimpses of water can be seen and flat stacks of pinkish stone line the roadside. We stayed at the Lodge CP, which must be the largest park I have ever seen. $30 for an unpowered site. We booked in for two days. At its centre is a great large pool, restaurant and bar.
    Once settled, we headed out to Cahill's Crossing. We timed it perfectly and arrived just before the tide changed. We counted at least 12 salt water Crocodiles waiting for the fish to swim over the Crossing. Magnificent beasts with the largest being at least 3 meters.
    We had happy hour with Walter and Silvia who were also camped near us again    Read more

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