Italian Vacation 2023

June - July 2023
Mangia Italia- An adventure through Italy with a sprinkle of sweetness! Read more
  • 27footprints
  • 2countries
  • 16days
  • 359photos
  • 6videos
  • 27.6kkilometers
  • 19.9kkilometers
  • Day 1

    And the Rubins are off

    June 23, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    It’s hard to believe after talking about this trip for so long, but it’s finally here. We are going to Italy! Dave and I worked hard to pack carry-on only and even had to place a few last minute orders to Amazon Prime last night for some more compression bags, but we did it! Now to see if they let the bags on the plane- who knew Lufthansa has a carry-on bag weight limit??!!

    Our flight doesn’t leave until 10, so we decided to start off our adventure with a practice train ride on the MBTA Commuter Rail followed by the deluxe silver line. Our dinner options were slim with huge lines at the major restaurants so we opted for the perfect meal to kick off our Italian journey- Bao buns!

    Now we’re off with a goal of sleeping until we get to Frankfurt. Hard to believe tomorrow we will be in Bologna!!
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  • Day 2

    Bologning (i.e. Rome-ing) around Bologna

    June 24, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    We made it! After a delayed arrival to Frankfurt and barely making our plane, we arrived in Bologna, Italy!!! Again, we acted like we knew what we were doing and took the Marconi Train and then a bus to the center of town. Our air BNB, 051 Suites is adorable! Located right down the street from the famous Bologna towers (also leaning Italian towers), the common area is covered in all different types of teapots. Rooms are decent size and clean, that’s all I could ask for.

    Then we ventured out!! We first stopped for a doppio since neither of us had coffee yet today and I ended up with some type of frozen espresso. It was delicious! Then we ventured to the Quadrilatero Market. This is Bologna’s biggest market and we stumbled upon a deli named Tamburini where they couldn’t have been nicer. We debated what sandwich to get and settled on 2 - one mortadella and one prosciutto sandwich. It may have just been the hunger but it was one of the best sandwiches I’ve ever had. Nothing more than a single kind of meat and bread but it was so amazing. Plus, we made a new friend in the deli guy who offered us some fresh parmesan as we were walking away - amazing!

    We continued to walk around the city - seeing beautiful churches, the plaza maggiore and Bologna’s famous porticos. We stopped at the hidden window to see Bologna’s hidden canal, but unfortunately the water was all dried up. Let’s hope we don’t have that problem in Venice! We even stumbled into what seemed like the worlds largest clothing and purse knock-off market. Most of the stuff looked like it would fall apart after one or 2 wears so we exited empty-handed and much more quickly than we usually do at a market.

    Our legs started getting tired so we found a nice little bar on a cute street and stopped for aperol spritz’s. In Italy, they come with appetizers (here it was olives, and two other unidentifiable items … possibly corn nuts and some cracker that google says is called Taralli) and the whole thing is called aperitivo. It’s a pretty sweet deal.

    We finished the evening at La Taverna dei Peccati. Mixed local cheese, lasagna and tagliatelle Ragu (both originated in Bologna) were all a great introduction to Italian cuisine. We had to get the Tiramisu since it was our first night here. I (Carrie) have never been a tiramisu fan, but this was amazing! And because we were in Italy, we finished the evening with raspberry and stracciatella gelato. We ate in the plaza where they were showing some movie from 1945. There were easily a thousand people in that square. Now, off to bed to try to fight the jet lag as quickly as possible.

    Day 1 complete - I would call this a great day!

    Walking tally for the day: 17k steps, 6.86 miles.
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  • Day 3

    Wandering nowhere

    June 25, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    We had every intention of waking up early, getting on Italian time, and wandering around the city. But that wasn’t reality. Somehow our alarm didn’t go off (more likely I didn’t set it right) and we didn’t wake up until noon. Whoops! But then we were off and running.

    We started our day with an Italian lunch at San Marini Bistro- a random bistro we found just walking around. Lunch consisted of a beautiful charcuterie tray with local meats and cheese and spaghetti carbonara. I loved the appetizer and Dave was in heaven with his first carbonara in years! We finished it off with a doppio espresso and we were ready to go!

    The afternoon was lovely but uneventful. We wondered around the city noticing beautiful architecture everywhere we turned. We came across a random water fountain where a small little dog was cooling off. We did a little shopping (which Dave made fun of me for doing) but of course he’s the only one who bought something.

    We wandered a little more enjoying the beautiful pasta and meat shops before we came to the plaza San Stefano. We took in our first church of the visit which was beautiful, but we were hot and tired and decided to seek out some gelato to cool off. While I’ve always sworn off fruity ice cream- I may now be a convert, at least in the daytime. We had the most amazing and refreshing mixed berry and lemon gelato. Delicious!

    A quick stop back at the hotel and we are ready for our real adventure of the day! We are climbing one of the Due Torres- the two towers of Bologna. These medieval towers are the tallest medieval tower in the world and was built between 1109 and 1119 by the Asinelli family. Just 498 stairs- we can do it, right?

    Post-climb update: we did it! We started up and immediately commented how narrow the staircase was. How do we get back down?? Well- soon we found out- the same way! Every time you hit a platform, you would have to stop and wait for one group to come down before the other went up. The stairs were old and steep. Made of wood that you could see how worn it was from all the steps taken there. It’s really astonishing to think about how they were able to build something like that over 900 years ago. We made it to the top and it was well worth it. The views of the city and even better, the views of the surrounding area was amazing. We saw many of the churches we had previously seen on our walks but never appreciated how large and grandiose they were.

    The climb up (and maybe even more down) helped build an appetite so we stopped at pasticcerria caffeterria San Stefano for an aperitivo. We had been eyeing a “Hugo” since last night (Prosecco with elderberry and mint) and it didn’t disappoint. We also ordered their special, Tagliere salumi formaggi crescentine calvo, and think we found heaven on earth. A huge platter of meat and cheese were served with fresh fried puffs of dough and they did not disappoint. We definitely love this atmosphere ,where one can sit, relax, eat and enjoy watching all of the people walk by.

    We finished the evening with dinner near the main Piazza at Clavature where we finally tried Tortellini which originated in Bologna. One was the traditional way “en brodo” and one stuffed with pumpkin, Balsalmic vinegar and bacon. Plus a beautiful salad with fresh mozzarella. Plus a wine and beer. Plus a tiramisu. All while listening to a live guitar. Oh- and we had to stop at a gelato place I had been eyeing since we got here and where we split a mint chocolate chip and Nutella gelato. That’s it- I promise. My stomach can’t handle any more! it was a perfect end to a day of nothing, but everything.

    Walking tally for the day: 17.2k steps, 7.08 miles, 21 flights climbed.
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  • Day 4

    Ciao Bologna!

    June 26, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    I have to start off this post with saying that jet-lag is a real thing. Historically I have never had a problem with it, but it’s hitting me hard here. We went to bed last night and I could barely keep my eyes open. I finished my 10 minute meditation and was wide awake. I mean WIDE awake. I tried a 30 minute meditation. Nothing. It actually frustrated me more since I could not remember for the life of me the name of my favorite instructor who was doing the meditation. I was relieved after to know Dave was awake with me too at that point. We tried music. Nothing. Then Dave played a story for us from the Calm app. Sounded like a good idea until I realized it was Harry Styles telling us a story and I couldn’t stop laughing- I mean hysterically. Another few hours and I finally fell sleep. Maybe around 6. Then our alarm went off at 7:30- we agreed to go on a run and a run we did.
    Dave kept saying during our two days in Bologna, “I wonder what this city is like on a Monday morning”. I didn’t think anything of it- assumed it would be the same. I was so wrong and we figured that out quickly as we went to cross the large pedestrian only street we had walked on the day before, just to see a huge bus racing towards us. They literally close off the main parts of the town during the weekend to cars and it was absolutely glorious to just wander and not worry about the cars. Plus, there was outdoor seating everywhere. But I also loved seeing the city this way. It was quiet and the town was just waking up. People heading off to work, pasticerrias just starting to set up their tables to welcome their patrons, and a nice cool breeze in the air. We went almost 3 miles before heading back to the hotel to pack up, grab breakfast, and say Ciao Ciao to Bologna.

    So now we are on the train to Venice and I’m always so impressed at how easy it is. The public transportation in Europe just has it right. We bought our tickets online, knew what car and what seat we were on, and it didn’t cost a fortune. Even the bus was easy. We have barely pulled a credit card out here. Everything is Apple Pay/tap accessible. Including the bus and train. The US public transportation system needs to get it together. But enough with my diatribe.

    The Italian countryside was beautiful and I was able to grab a quick 20 minute nap during our 1.5 hour train ride. That should get me enough energy to explore Venice!
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  • Day 4

    The Oliver’s have entered the trip!

    June 26, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Hey y’all! We’re excited to get to Italy and join Carrie and Dave on the Italian adventure! Apparently, that wasn’t so easy. We didn’t plan for thunderstorms all across the East Coast, and neither did the airlines. Our flight plan was Boston > Newark > Venice. We saw flight after flight get delayed or cancelled, saw our flight get delayed from 3:30 to 4 to 5 to 6 to 7 and more. Long story short (too late), after a lot of calls with the airline and a lot of waiting in line, we basically said what all New Yorkers say: “F&#%!@?! Newark, can you get us to Venice or at least somewhere close enough that we can catch a train?” So you know what’s better than Newark? Lisbon! An amazingly patient women at the airport found us a flight to Lisbon and a connection to Venice. We’ll miss half a day total, and possibly a suitcase; not the end of the world in the grand scheme of things. If anyone sees the larger blue bag kicking around Newark, let us know!

    So if anyone has a recommendation of how to spend 4 great hours in the Lisbon airport, we’re all ears! Otherwise, see you in Venice!
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  • Day 4

    Venice!!

    June 26, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Last time I was in Venice, I was 19 years old and here with 2 couples. Can you say awkward??!! I’ve always looked forward to coming back here and to see it with Dave - who is experiencing the city for the first time - it’s truly magical. We arrived at the main train station and headed out to grab the water bus to our hotel (also known as Vaparetto). We got into the boat and stood there before realizing we weren’t actually standing on the boat, but we were in the floating bus terminal! It’s such a different mind frame when you realize everything around you is water-based.

    We wandered to our hotel, Al Theatro Palace, which was tucked away in a quiet little corner just a few minutes from Saint Mark's square. The hotel was recently renovated so rooms are nice, modern and clean. We only have a view of a brick wall, but that’s ok. We were starving by now (it was almost 2:30) so we put our stuff down in our very nice and clean room and headed out to find food.

    Dave wanted to eat at the first restaurant we saw, but my mind was set. We were going to the grand canal. And I’m so happy we did. We were able to get a table at Ristorante Omnibus overlooking the Grand Canal. It was a Grand introduction (see what I did there?) to Venice. We had our first pizzas and split a prosciutto and mushroom pizza and a pepperoni (spicy salami) pizza. Plus we each had an aperol spritz. It was perfect. We then decided to just stroll around. After all, that’s what everyone tells you to do here. We immediately both realized how exhausted we already were and ducked into Dolce Vita Patisserie for a doppio and had to try one of their sweets. We opted for the fiamme (flame) and it was delicious- a pastry filled with chantilly cream with chocolate and pistachios. We then proceeded to wander through all the the little streets. We loved just getting lost, finding little hidden streets, beautiful architecture and bridges that went no where. We even found a basilica that was built after the plague as a gift to the Saint of health to thank her for getting them through the plague.

    We probably did this for close to 3 hours but it was hot and we were tired so back to the hotel for a break and some air conditioning. Then it was time to explore a little more. We walked to Saint Marks Square where they were setting up for some big concert tomorrow. The architecture here is beautiful and we had the opportunity to see the famous pigeons. We walked around for a bit and then realized it was almost 8 and we were getting hungry. We settled on Osteria da Alex where we split a fritte mixto (mixed fried seafood), Dave had carbonara and I had spaghetti with clams. Plus a glass of house red for me and a Hugo for Dave. Food was really nice and we both enjoyed our meal, but didn’t love the mosquitos.

    Of course we couldn’t end the night without something sweet so we stopped at Suso gelato and got 3 flavors- tiramisu, cookies and salted caramel toffee. Eating gelato, being serenaded by an opera student, great end to an evening. Now back to the hotel to go to bed- fingers crossed!

    Walking Tally: 24,338 steps, 10.56 miles
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  • Day 5

    I cant walk anymore!!

    June 27, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    It happened! I actually slept last night!! Our alarm woke us up at 8 this morning and I felt great. We grabbed breakfast in the hotel breakfast room which was really cute and had beautiful chandeliers decorating it. We had eggs, some type of savory egg tart, apricot croissant, chocolate croissant and plain Italian bread- just so we could put some blueberry jam on it. Delicious!

    We decided to just play the day by ear and started walking out past Saint Marks square and quickly decided we didn’t want to wait in the 2 hour line for the Doje’s palace. We instead walked the 26 minutes to the Jewish Ghetto- the first ghetto created and glad we did. As you approach the ghetto, you notice a change in the buildings. None of the buildings in Venice were very high, but now you have much larger apartment buildings- in order for more people to live there. You have to cross a small bridge and go through a low tunnel to get to the actual ghetto. This used to be gated off at curfew time so the Jewish people couldn’t leave. We decided to grab lunch and ended up at Majer Venezia bakery and had the most simple and amazing prosciutto and mozzarella sandwich on fresh ciabatta along with a slice of Mediterranean pizza. They were delicious!

    After lunch we headed back to get tickets to our tour of the ghetto. It was interesting to note this has been the only place we’ve come to so far that has checked our bags and put us through a metal detector. Tells a sad story, but it needs to happen. We then started the tour. The ghetto was established in the 1500s and it was interesting that Jewish people from all over came there and requested to be let into the ghetto. This was because the ghetto had become a place of commerce for the Jewish people and where they were given approval to live and work. We then went to the leventine and the Sephardic synagogues and they were absolutely beautiful. The detail and designs were gorgeous and the synagogues were still in use today.

    After the tour was over, we did a little shopping and then started to wander again. We ended up at the end of Venice with a beautiful view of Murano (and a nice breeze). Back we went to Saint Marks square where we sat and each had an aperol Spritz aperitivo and listened to the beautiful orchestra serenade us. That is, until a soundcheck started for the concert that evening and we were surrounded with terrible practice music blaring from concert speakers.

    We left to do some more walking and searching for shoes (it’s very important to have sandals here we realized) and ended up back at the hotel where I started today’s blog. 1 paragraph in and I was asleep! So a quick nap, shower, and we were back out again.

    Now here’s the best part of the day. We wandered over to intercept Becky and Mike as they got off the boat. The Oliver’s made it! Woohoo! One more quick stop at the hotel, a little more wandering to show them Saint Marks square and then dinner at Vino Vino near our hotel where we chose to sit in a cute little garden in the back.

    Of course we all got drinks and had to split a charcuterie tray. Plus, Dave had been wanting to try the Venetian specialty of fried sardines. I think we all agree we could have done without them. Main meal consisted of gnocchi for Mike, carbonara for Becky, ravioli for me and a whole fish for Dave. We finished and then you guessed it, we wandered a bit more to gelato at Suzo again. It was delicious. Now we are off to bed. Tomorrow we will explore Venice bit more then we are off to Tuscany (via rental car…gulp!)

    Walking tally: 27,170; 11.06 miles
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