• Maree Crawford
Current
  • Maree Crawford

Central Europe, Denmark, Mongolia

An open-ended adventure by Maree Read more
  • Currently in
    🇲🇳 Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia

    CPH to Istanbul to Ulaanbataa

    Aug 25–27 in Mongolia ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Turkish Airlines flights from Copenhagen to Istanbul, Turkey. Layover of 3 hours. Hot in the airport.
    Istanbul to Ulaanbataa, Mongolia.
    Robbed me of 5 hours sleep because of the time difference.

    The horse ride company picked me up from airport and delivered me to Narantuul hotel.
    Around 10am. The room was already ready so that was great.

    Snooze, shower, lunch at the restaurant on the top floor of the hotel.

    Walk up Peace Avenue to a few shopping centres. Found a market that is selling things for going back to school. Stationary, backpacks, uniforms.

    Jac and Di arrive from Hong Kong. We are staying in the same room. Big apartment.

    We chat then go have tea in the other restaurant in the hotel.

    Ulaanbataa reminds me of Bangkok but not so hectic. Still has lots of cars, honking, driving and parking haphazardly. Not the humidity or smell.

    I'll label the photos later
    Read more

  • Train tripping to Copenhagen

    August 23 in Denmark ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Today is the end of Chapter 2 or beginning of Chapter 3?? It feels more like an end.

    Train trip from Aarhus to Copenhagen airport. No delays or troubles. Just rain.

    The train gets in as the showers stop so I can walk the little way to Scandi airport hotel. Check in is not until 4 pm so happy to check luggage and go for a walk but they say my room is ready!!

    So I decided to enjoy the afternoon in the luxury hotel. Have a day off from walking! 😊
    The hotel has a lovely bar cafe so I eat a very nice panini sandwich. Then catch up on paperwork before tomorrow's flight.
    Read more

  • Last full day with Karen and Ib

    August 22 in Denmark ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    Today we're road tripping to Vejle. Ib drives, I'm in the front seat and Karen in the back.
    First stop in Vejle is a spectacular office building called the Fjordenhus, built on the water in the Vejle fjord, in town. Money was no object so apparently the only rule the architect had was "there are no limits".
    I think Karen told me they are the owners of Lego.
    So many types of bricks used. The 28-metre-high structure is formed from four intersecting cylindrical shapes, with sweeping arches, curved windows and specially glazed brickwork that changes appearance with the light and water. Its dramatic ground floor, reached by a footbridge, is open to the public.
    Then to a lovely museum/education Centre about the Environment and Sustainability. Tailored for kids and schools so the messages are delivered in very interesting ways. Much better than adult.
    We accidentally find another museum about the woollen mills, child labour and other industrial stories.

    By then it's lunch time so we head towards Billund and find an old fashioned shop that has a cafe ( so lunch) and a massive collection of everything!! There's lots of people here and is on the cycle routes. Even provides a washing machine and a shower, for a few, for travellers.
    Then to an ex- quarry that has massive sculptures in it.

    Home via the country roads, including the Viking ship anchored by the little jetty outside Jelling.
    Read more

  • Ib's the tour guide today

    August 21 in Denmark ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    This morning I repack my stuff and post a box back to Oz.

    After lunch, Ib takes me to the Moesgaard Museum. This is the 3rd time I've been but there's always something different to see. And some old favourites.

    Then a coffee and cake at a cafe at a renovated flour mill, then on to the Moesgaard Strand (beach).
    Lovely drive through the beech forest.
    Read more

  • Last West Coast road tripping day

    August 20 in Denmark ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    Shipwreck museum at Thorsminde and an interesting morning tea host.

    Lighthouse and north sea. Spent a lot of time there. WW2 bunkers. Little ponies. Paragliders off the cliffs

    Shell house. Server was half Danish, half Australian and usually lives in Germany. This is his holiday job.

    Ferry across to Agger.
    Hit the highway back to Aarhus.

    More words later.
    Read more

  • Further north, up the Isthmus

    August 19 in Denmark ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    B and B breakfast, firstly. We had stayed in a nice bnb, with a lovely lady host.
    Then we had a walk around the bit of the town we hadn't seen. It was overcast and threatening showers.
    We walked past Karen's friend's art studio but it was closed.
    We went back to the car and as we drove out we saw Karen's friend opening up so we did a U-turn and caught up with her.

    On the way out we visited a lighthouse out on the windy north sea. The lighthouse is on a dune.

    Then we went to see some amazing sand sculptures in Søndervig. They do it every year. Truly amazing. It started to rain so while we waited for that to clear we found a coffee shop, and walked out to the wild windy beach.

    We then wanted to see the town of Ringkøbing. It's the main centre for the farming district, port for the fjord fisheries and tourist centre. On the way we saw a heap of kites in the sky so we went to investigate. It was heaps of kite surfers. How they didn't get tangled, we don't know.
    The town had lovely cobbled streets and was quite pretty.

    It was 4 pm by then so we kept driving north to Thorsminde. It's a town right in the middle of the spit or isthmus between an inland fjord and the North Sea to the west.
    Accommodation is a lovely cabin and a camping park. We had pizza for tea.
    Read more

  • Abeline's Gaard ( farm)

    August 18 in Denmark ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Abelines Gaard is a listed beach bailiff's farm, a quadrangular farm , in Haurvig a few kilometers south of Hvide Sande on Holmsland Klit , the isthmus between the North Sea and Ringkøbing Fjord .

    In the mid- 1970s , the farm was set up as a local museum for Holmsland Klit and is part of the merged Ringkøbing-Skjern Museum .
    The museum is named after Abeline Christensen (1870-1957), whose parents-in-law built the farm in 1854-71, which is in a typical West Jutland style. She took over the farm with her husband in 1890 , and by 1904 she was widowed with five children aged 6–13. Abeline initially ran the farm with outside help and later with four of her children until her death in 1957. In addition to running the farm, Abeline managed the Haurvig Telephone Exchange, and her position as a beach attendant was also linked to the farm. She also had summer guests staying there, including the painter Carl Trier Aagaard and his family for several years. 

    Immediately on the other side of the road towards the sea lies the also listed Haurvig Lifeguard Station, a coastal rescue station that was closed down in 1932 , and which Abeline bought so that the youth could have a go at the gramophone and accordion. 

    Abelines Gaard was awarded the European building conservation award Europa Nostra in 1996. 

    The green wooden door (photo below) features the nameplate of the barque Elisabeth Rickmers, a large German vessel that stranded off the coast of Holmsland Klit in February 1894. 
    The nameboard and the "Gefle" sign above it are authentic artifacts salvaged from shipwrecks along the dangerous West Jutland coast and mounted on the historic Abelines Gård.
    From Wikipedia
    Read more

  • Roadtripping with Karen

    August 18 in Denmark ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    Today we're driving west then south-west then north.
    First we go to Thor and Sophie's for breakfast so Karen and Ib ( and me) can say goodbye to them and Dirch as they head off on a 3 month holiday to Asia on Thursday morning.
    Ib goes back to the Mill, and we won't be back until late Thursday.

    We leave Aarhus and go due west to Hening then go south west to a beach, Vejers Strand. The beach is the only one you can drive on and there's lots of campervans there....and lots of Germans. Apparently they have their holidays a bit later, and this is pretty close to the border.
    One guy gets bogged in the sand.

    We have a walk on the beach, put the toe in the water and discover lots of different washed up jellyfish 🪼.

    We have lunch there, and a coffee then head north -ish. We discover a Viking open-air museum, which is fantastic. They had a live-in re-enactment festival 2 weeks ago. That would have been amazing but this is still very good.

    Further north up the spit between the fjord and the North Sea, we visit an old 19th century farm house museum. Lovely.

    Then to our accommodation town of Hvide Sande, which means white sand.
    We unpack then go for a walk to the harbour and beach. Some sealions are playing in the shallows, they do this every evening.
    Fish and chips for tea, another little walk before an ice-cream.
    Then " home".

    A very nice day.

    I thought I could only put up 25 photos but now it's 40!!
    Read more

  • The kids leave.

    August 17 in Denmark ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Thor, Sophie and Dirch take Joe and Keely to Aarhus this morning. Joe hasn't been there since 2012 and Keely never, so Sophie said "that won't do, I need to show you". So they went around 10.30. Then they catch the train to Copenhagen in the afternoon. Then have a day there tomorrow before flying to Italy.

    Jim and I leave with Ib at 1 pm so Jim can catch his plane to Milan, Italy at 3 pm.

    Ib and I head back to their place in Aarhus. Have a snooze and a lovely tea, just the 3 of us.

    Here's a few photos the boys have sent through...
    Read more

  • Family day

    August 16 in Denmark ⋅ 🌬 19 °C

    Another restful morning.
    Hannah and Peter leave.
    Malte and Mia and 3 kids ( all starting with M) arrive at morning tea time
    Nanna arrives before lunch with Sophie. Nanna is pregnant with bub due in August.
    Thor, Jim and I go for a short drive to Isengárd. It's actually an old farm but lays a claim that JRR Tolkien, author of Lord of the Rings, came here and got inspiration for names for his sites and characters. Apparently, there is a Helm's Deep out in the ocean somewhere too.
    Also to a place that has 3 possible burial mounds, that the ves a good view of the area. Thor remembers all the boys running up and down them on our trip in 2012.

    We have a scrumptious Danish lunch.
    Joe and Keely and I go for a little walk after lunch.
    Nanna goes back to Aarhus with Karen. Malte and family go home.
    It's been lovely to catch up with the other members of Thor's family.

    Ib cooks us special traditional roast pork with crackling (crackling usually only happens at Christmas), new potatoes out of his garden, and parsley sauce. Then pancakes!

    After that Jim, Thor, Joe, Keely and I play a card game.

    Lovely family day.
    Read more

  • Lazy day at the Mill

    August 15 in Denmark ⋅ 🌬 20 °C

    Lazy morning. It's a lot cooler today. Overcast and about 19-21 degrees. We still go for a swim anyway. It's salty!! 👏👏
    Only been swimming in lakes lately. We go to Joe and Keely's accommodation to get their swimmers.
    They are only down the road for 2 nights as Karen had booked it when we thought Nan and Fa might be coming. They'll be with us here tomorrow night

    Then lunch at the mill then we go into Æbeltoft to the old town. Joe hasn't been back since our visit in 2012 and Keely hasn't been here at all. Jim's been back.
    We reminisce about the restaurant where we celebrated Thor's 18th and Steve's 50th.
    Find an ice-cream and marshmallow kind of chocolate biscuit thing.
    Then try some beers. I have to have the "Pink Farts and Unicorns " beer.
    Then shopping for a BBQ tea.

    A communal effort sees a lovely tea.
    Read more

  • To the Mill

    August 13 in Denmark ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    Rest day today.
    Thor and Dirch opened wedding presents. They loved the handmade wooden presents very much.
    Went for a little walk with Thor and Dirch for a coffee.
    After lunch we drove to the Mill.
    Joe and Keely flew into Aarhus airport via Copenhagen from Zurich.
    They were supposed to have got a night train from Zurich to Hamburg last night but it got cancelled. They were already on the train and about to get in their PJ's when it got cancelled because a door wouldn't close! They were offered an alternative that wasn't practical so they got a hotel in Zurich. How annoying!!

    Anyway, Karen and I picked them up from Aarhus airport which is actually closer to the Mill than Aarhus.

    Karen's sister and BIL are here too, and we all had a lovely meal and evening.
    Karen's sister, Hannah, made a lovely speech 😀

    And yes, Roxy is still with us.
    Read more

  • Trip to Silkeborg

    August 13 in Denmark ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    More words later..
    Picked up by Thor, Sophie and Dirch to go to Silkeborg for the day, west of Aarhus.
    Canoe up river, lunch, boat ride to sky mountain, 4th highest mountain in Denmark at 174 m high.
    Walk up hill and watch tower. Big icecream.

    Miss boat. Get another one then a bus back to car. Regatta getting started.
    Swim in a lake

    Pizzas for tea. Man pizza made of course.
    Nick from Young, NSW, working here and living in flat . Has " friend" Isabella from Portugal here.
    Read more

  • Walkabout in Aarhus

    August 12 in Denmark ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Thor and baby Dirch (21 months) came for breakfast then they, Karen, Jim and I drove to Thor's place and then walked around central Aarhus.

    Starting at ARoS, their main museum that has the rainbow walk up on top.
    First we went down under a mound to see an incredible moving art installation of colour and sound. Hard to describe but impressive. Saw a few other exhibitions there.
    Then walked around the streets of the older town, found a place for lunch.

    Back to Thor's place for a rest and Jim had a snooze.
    Then another walk down to the harbour area and a play ground with a slide that Dirch loved.
    Home to Thor's place. Sophie was home from work.
    We had rice paper roll things for tea.

    A great day catching up, revisiting Aarhus and getting to know little Dirch.
    Read more

  • Back "home" to Aarhus

    August 11 in Denmark ⋅ 🌬 21 °C

    Travelled nearly 2000 km today by bus, plane, train and car.

    Bus- Brno to Prague airport. Nearly didn't happen! The scheduled 6 am bus got cancelled last minute without us being told in good time. Me, not knowing Czech language but seeing people's concern, I realise ...no bus! But it appears there's a bus leaving at 6.30 for Prague city and we are to go on that one. So all aboard. When we get to Prague I'm prepared to jump into a taxi and go to the airport but I get swept up by my fellow original bus passengers who get on another bus that's going to the airport.
    So, I end up at the airport by the same bus company, an hour behind schedule. I still have half an hour to wait until check-in opens so all good in the end!! I had prepared myself that if I miss the plane, I'll book into an airport hotel and fly tomorrow.

    Plane- Ryanair to Copenhagen. Smooth sailing, or flying.

    Train- CPH to Aarhus. Train is a bit late leaving. We add some carriages in Copenhagen Central. And, unbeknowns to me, Jim is on this train, in another carriage! There's too many people on the train to move to the same carriage. Jim flew into Copenhagen this morning and has filled in time here to catch this train.
    The train still gets in on time at 18.38, and Thor is there to pick us up in his car. 💕💕
    So I see both my boys at the train station 😊

    Then to a lovely meal and evening at Braband (suburb) where Ib and Karen live. It's like coming home 🏠
    Read more

  • Guided day trip with Rosta

    August 10 in Czech Republic ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Discover Moravian Karst: Seven Stops, One Tailored Tour

    • Comfortable air-conditioned car transport
    • Enjoy a relaxing journey in a fully air-conditioned vehicle.
    • Knowledgeable local guide
    • Benefit from the insights of a seasoned local expert.
    • Receive personalized and attentive care
    • Experience dedicated attention and tailored service throughout your tour.
    • Visit historic Baroque and Neo-Gothic churches
    • Explore beautifully preserved Baroque churches and a stunning Neo-Gothic church.
    • Discover impressive caves and karst formations
    • Marvel at stunning caves and unique karst landscapes.
    • Explore significant historical and cultural sites
    • Immerse yourself in places of historical and cultural importance.
    • Tour unique old industrial and mining sites
    • Visit fascinating locations with historical industrial and mining significance.
    • Enjoy breathtaking panoramic views of the city
    • Take in spectacular panoramic vistas of the surrounding cityscape
    Read more

  • A short history of Brno

    August 9 in Czech Republic ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Brno is the historic capital of Moravia, one of the three traditional Czech lands alongside Bohemia and Czech Silesia. It developed around a castle and trading settlement and was officially established as a town in 1243.

    During the Middle Ages, Brno became an important fortified commercial centre. One of its defining moments came in 1645, during the Thirty Years' War, when the city successfully resisted a much larger Swedish army. Špilberk Castle later became a major Habsburg fortress and an infamous prison.

    In the 18th and 19th centuries, Brno grew rapidly under the Habsburg Empire. Its textile industry became so important that the city was sometimes called the "Manchester of Moravia." The population included substantial Czech, German and Jewish communities.

    After Austria-Hungary collapsed in 1918, Brno became part of the new Czechoslovakia. The interwar years were particularly important architecturally: Brno became a centre of modernism, exemplified by Villa Tugendhat, completed in 1930 and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

    The city was occupied by Nazi Germany during World War II. Brno's Jewish community was devastated in the Holocaust. After the war, most of the city's German-speaking population was expelled under the post-war Czechoslovak government's policies.

    From 1948 to 1989, Brno was part of communist Czechoslovakia. Following the Velvet Revolution of 1989, democracy returned.

    When Czechoslovakia peacefully divided on 1 January 1993, Brno became part of the new Czech Republic (Czechia). Today it's the country's second-largest city, a major university and technology centre, while retaining its strong Moravian identity.

    In a nutshell: medieval Moravian city → Habsburg industrial powerhouse → Czechoslovak city → communist era → modern Czech university and technology centre.
    Read more

  • Brno

    August 9 in Czech Republic ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    After my morning's look around of Olomouc, I took a midday Flixbus to Brno. Only an hour away.
    After I check in and have a cuppa, I go exploring Brno. It's heated up to the 30's again but I force myself to do it.

    First up, I walk through the Vegetable market square. No vegies today.
    Then find my way to Spilberk castle. Castle has a museum I didn't go to, and a few cafes and a restaurant, gardens, concert areas.

    Then I do a bit of a lap and find I'm accidentally ticking off a lot of the "must do's" of Brno.

    Horse statue, a couple more squares, the bullet clock, the crocodile which is supposed to be a dragon, bone house, heaps of cathedrals.

    I finish off with a lovely meal in a nice outdoor restaurant close to home.
    Read more

  • A short history of Olomouc

    August 9 in Czech Republic ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Olomouc is one of the oldest and historically most important cities in Moravia, the eastern part of today's Czech Republic. For centuries it rivalled Brno as Moravia's principal city.

    Early history: A settlement developed here by at least the 10th century, helped by its position on important trade routes. Olomouc became a major political and religious centre of the medieval Přemyslid lands. A bishopric was established in 1063, giving the city lasting importance to the Catholic Church.

    Medieval prosperity: During the Middle Ages, Olomouc grew into a wealthy fortified city of merchants, craftsmen and clergy. Its churches, squares and university reflect this prosperity. Palacký University, founded in 1573, is the second-oldest university in the Czech lands.

    The Thirty Years' War changed everything: In 1642 Swedish troops captured Olomouc and occupied it for eight years. The city was badly damaged and lost much of its population and economic importance. Afterwards, Brno increasingly took over Olomouc's role as Moravia's leading city.

    The Habsburg era: Olomouc was rebuilt and heavily fortified. Its magnificent Baroque architecture dates largely from this period. The most famous example is the Holy Trinity Column, completed in the 18th century and now a UNESCO World Heritage site.

    A little Mozart connection: The young Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart stayed in Olomouc in 1767, when his family fled a smallpox outbreak in Vienna. He was only 11.

    20th century: Olomouc became part of Czechoslovakia in 1918 following the collapse of Austria-Hungary. It was occupied by Nazi Germany during World War II and then spent more than four decades under communist rule. The historic centre survived, although communist-era suburbs expanded around it.

    Today: Since the peaceful division of Czechoslovakia in 1993, Olomouc has been part of the Czech Republic. It's now known particularly for its Baroque centre, university and large student population.
    Read more

  • A short history of Žilina

    August 8 in Slovakia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Zilina is one of the main cities of northern Slovakia, sitting where the Váh, Kysuca and Rajčianka rivers meet. Its position on routes through the Carpathians helped make it an important trading and transport centre.

    Medieval beginnings: The area was settled much earlier, but Žilina developed as a town in the 13th century. It was first recorded in 1208, and in 1321 King Charles I granted it privileges as a free royal town. The attractive Mariánske námestie (Marian Square), with its arcaded buildings, still reflects its medieval layout.

    An important Slovak milestone: In 1381, King Louis I issued the Privilegium pro Slavis, requiring that Slovak inhabitants receive equal representation with the German population on Žilina's town council. It is considered an important document in the history of Slovaks in medieval Hungary.

    Trade and crafts: From the 15th to 18th centuries, Žilina prospered through crafts, markets and trade. Its position on routes between Hungary, Moravia and Poland was particularly valuable. Fires, wars and epidemics periodically damaged the town, so much of what you see today was rebuilt over several centuries.

    Railways transformed the city: The arrival of the railway in the late 19th century turned Žilina into a major industrial and transport hub. Textile factories and other industries followed, and the city expanded well beyond its old medieval centre.

    20th century: Žilina became part of Czechoslovakia in 1918 after the collapse of Austria-Hungary. During World War II it was part of the wartime Slovak state. After the war, communist-era industrialisation brought factories, large housing estates and rapid population growth.

    Since 1993: When Czechoslovakia peacefully separated into the Czech Republic and Slovakia on 1 January 1993, Žilina became part of independent Slovakia. Today it's an important university, industrial and transport city and a gateway to the mountains of northern Slovakia.
    Read more

  • Beautiful Olomouc

    August 8 in Czech Republic ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    An early-ish start today, my Leo Express train leaves at 8.21 "on the minute" the ticket warns. Sure enough, we pulled out at 8.21 am.

    3 hours later we get into Olomouc, Czechia. I have to walk my luggage 2 km but I take my time and look around, the temperature is a nice 28, rather than 38. Even so, I'm hot and sweaty by the time I get there.
    I arrive at my hotel around noon. Too early to check in but my booking said they store luggage. But yay! My room is ready and I can go straight away.

    And air conditioning!! So, I cool down and have a wee rest then head out for an explore and find some lunch.

    This town is beautiful. The accommodation is right in the middle of the old town. Cobblestones and colourful buildings, churches, statues. Just lovely.
    Read more

  • What's in Zilina?

    August 7 in Slovakia ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Thunderstorms forecast so try and get activities done in between. The temperature is down but humidity is up.

    Walk across the river to find the start of the "red" trail up to the Duben observatory tower. It's a 2 km walk up a pretty steep hill and across some ridges. The view up the watch tower is lovely but a bit overcast and cloudy.

    Then down to the Budatin Castle where there is now a museum, a few little exhibitions, a chapel and a great exhibition about wire- makers
    Lunch.
    I find another shopping area, then go back to old town square.
    On the way home I pop into the New Synagogue, which isn't actually used for worship anymore but community events.
    By this time it's 4 o'clock, I'd been walking for 8 hours!

    Not long after I get home a fuse ( or lots of fuses) blow and the whole building loses power. I message the owners because I can't ring them. Thankfully they respond and someone comes and fixes them.

    Pizza for tea
    Read more

  • Europe's severe heatwave

    August 6 in Slovakia ⋅ ⛅ 36 °C

    A severe heatwave is affecting much of Central Europe, and Hungary, Slovakia and the Czech Republic are among the hardest-hit countries.

    Hungary: Temperatures are reaching 38–40°C, with authorities urging people to reduce electricity use because demand for air conditioning is straining the power grid. Exceptionally low water levels in the Danube are also affecting power generation.

    Slovakia: Extreme heat continues, with temperatures around 39–41°C in the warmest areas. Slovakia has recently recorded its highest temperature ever (41.4°C), and health authorities are warning people—especially older adults and children—to avoid outdoor activity during the hottest part of the day.

    Czech Republic: Forecast highs of 37–40°C are expected in parts of the country. Heat warnings are in place, with advice to stay hydrated, limit strenuous activity, and check on vulnerable people. Earlier this summer the Czech Republic also set a new national temperature record.

    Across the region, officials are also concerned about wildfire risk, drought, and pressure on electricity supplies due to the prolonged hot, dry weather.
    Read more