• Maree Crawford
  • Maree Crawford

Central Europe, Denmark, Mongolia, Hong Kong

Cycle Czech Republic, Austria, Slovakia to Hungary then train/bus back. Fly to Denmark for family business. Then meet my 2 sisters for a horse trek in Mongolia before a few days in Hong Kong. Lue lisää
  • Ib's the tour guide today

    21. elokuuta, Tanska ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    This morning I repack my stuff and post a box back to Oz.

    After lunch, Ib takes me to the Moesgaard Museum. This is the 3rd time I've been but there's always something different to see. And some old favourites.

    Then a coffee and cake at a cafe at a renovated flour mill, then on to the Moesgaard Strand (beach).
    Lovely drive through the beech forest.
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  • Last full day with Karen and Ib

    22. elokuuta, Tanska ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    Today we're road tripping to Vejle. Ib drives, I'm in the front seat and Karen in the back.
    First stop in Vejle is a spectacular office building called the Fjordenhus, built on the water in the Vejle fjord, in town. Money was no object so apparently the only rule the architect had was "there are no limits".
    I think Karen told me they are the owners of Lego.
    So many types of bricks used. The 28-metre-high structure is formed from four intersecting cylindrical shapes, with sweeping arches, curved windows and specially glazed brickwork that changes appearance with the light and water. Its dramatic ground floor, reached by a footbridge, is open to the public.
    Then to a lovely museum/education Centre about the Environment and Sustainability. Tailored for kids and schools so the messages are delivered in very interesting ways. Much better than adult.
    We accidentally find another museum about the woollen mills, child labour and other industrial stories.

    By then it's lunch time so we head towards Billund and find an old fashioned shop that has a cafe ( so lunch) and a massive collection of everything!! There's lots of people here and is on the cycle routes. Even provides a washing machine and a shower, for a few, for travellers.
    Then to an ex- quarry that has massive sculptures in it.

    Home via the country roads, including the Viking ship anchored by the little jetty outside Jelling.
    I've been to Vejle twice before, the eco place once before, the quarry place and the Viking ship once before but it's nice to revisit, as that was mostly in 2012, 14 years ago.
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  • Train tripping to Copenhagen

    23. elokuuta, Tanska ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Today is the end of Chapter 2 or beginning of Chapter 3?? It feels more like an end.

    Train trip from Aarhus to Copenhagen airport. No delays or troubles. Just rain.

    The train gets in as the showers stop so I can walk the little way to Scandi airport hotel. Check in is not until 4 pm so happy to check luggage and go for a walk but they say my room is ready!!

    So I decided to enjoy the afternoon in the luxury hotel. Have a day off from walking! 😊
    The hotel has a lovely bar cafe so I eat a very nice panini sandwich. Then catch up on paperwork before tomorrow's flight.
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  • CPH to Istanbul to Ulaanbaatar

    25.–27. elok., Mongolia ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Turkish Airlines flights from Copenhagen to Istanbul, Turkey. Layover of 3 hours. Hot in the airport.
    Istanbul to Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia.
    Robbed me of 5 hours sleep because of the time difference.

    The horse ride company picked me up from airport and delivered me to Narantuul hotel.
    Around 10am. The room was already ready so that was great.

    Snooze, shower, lunch at the restaurant on the top floor of the hotel.

    Walk up Peace Avenue to a few shopping centres. Found a market that is selling things for going back to school. Stationary, backpacks, uniforms.

    Jac and Di arrive from Hong Kong. We are staying in the same room. It's a big apartment. Jacqui reckons she could easily live here!

    We chat then go have tea in the other restaurant in the hotel.

    Ulaanbaatar reminds me of Bangkok but not so hectic. Still has lots of cars, honking, driving and parking haphazardly. Not the humidity or smell.
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  • Guided tour to out of town

    26. elokuuta, Mongolia ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Today, a day tour with guides with hotel pickup and drop-off. We have to walk to the neighbouring hotel, but that's fine. All fees and entrances paid, including lunch!
    We "embark on an unforgettable journey starting at the awe-inspiring Genghis Khan Statue Complex, home to the world's largest equestrian statue. Begin your day by taking an exhilarating elevator ride up to the horse's neck, where you'll be treated to unparalleled panoramic views of the picturesque countryside that surrounds you." We did a climb up steps as "the elevator is unreliable and we might get stuck"!! The statue is huge and the complex is very impressive.

    "Delve deeper into Mongolian history and culture as you explore the small historical museum nestled at the base of the statue. Accompanied by our knowledgeable tour guide, gain invaluable insights into the rich heritage of the Mongolian Empire." This was great, our guide was enthusiastic with great knowledge. We then had a short time for the souvenir shops and Traditional costume photo shoot. That was a bit of fun.

    "For the adventurous, we've pre-arranged thrilling camel rides and the extraordinary opportunity to hold a magnificent eagle for photo shootings." Camel ride not so thrilling but fun. There was also archery that Dianne had a go at.

    "Next, venture towards Terelj Park, a natural wonder just a stone's throw away from Ulaanbaatar. Marvel at the park's striking rock formations, including the famous Turtle Rock, as you embrace the thrill of conquering its heights. Embark on a hike to the enchanting Aryabal Monastery, where tranquility awaits amidst breathtaking vistas of the park's natural splendor." Turtle Rock wasn't that high, the Monastery was a lovely walk through a Buddhist park rather than a national park.

    "Expert photography by our specially trained guides", they took photos on our own phones - which was actually great because we had them immediately and we weren't expected to pay for photos we didn't want.

    "To conclude your remarkable journey, indulge in a traditional Mongolian lunch within the cozy confines of a Ger, an authentic Mongolian tent. Immerse yourself in the country's vibrant culinary culture, savoring the unique flavors and experiencing the warmth of traditional hospitality." Lunch was in a ger, yes, but more of a roadside cafe, not a family home. Food was great and it was our first "taste" of a ger. Plus it was before the Terelj Park capers.

    "As the tour draws to a close, return to the city with a heart full of cherished memories and a deeper appreciation for the beauty and heritage of Mongolia. This captivating adventure promises to leave an indelible mark on your soul, forever reminding you of the wonders that await within this remarkable land." That bit was true.

    Big day, very tired. A great day tour
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  • Walkabout Ulaanbaatar

    27. elokuuta, Mongolia ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    We had a leisurely morning then headed out to the must-see Narantuul Market. It's a 5.3 km hike there. On the way we call into other places to look at also.
    We walk through a lovely park that is also a family-friendly amusement park. It's school holidays so lots of stuff going on.

    We get to the market about 2-ish. We haven't had lunch yet so find a food court in a nearby small shopping centre and we all have a lovely soup.

    We're then ready to find the rest of the market. It is indeed big but not as busy or chaotic as we were led to believe.
    Hike back again.
    We've covered 15 km today. It feels like it.
    A bit knackered so we go back to the upstairs restaurant " The Godfather" and have a lovely meal.
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  • A different side of Ulaanbataa

    27. elokuuta, Mongolia ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Today we have a guided trip I organised with Eternal Landscapes, a British company who supports projects here.

    We were picked up at the hotel by a driver and our lovely guide, Odnoo. She has a 12 year old and 3 year old twins, all sons.

    We go to an NGO (non-government organisation), Asral. I've done a separate page on that organisation.
    They are a Buddhist led shelter for single parents, usually mum's to help raise the kids out of poverty and educate and feed them. And a few more projects you'll read about on the Asral page.

    We meet a few of the workers, see a couple of kids. It's still school holidays so no students at school here until September.

    We have a chat with the local director lady. The corporate director is here from Ireland, he is Mongolian but speaks English very well with an Irish accent.
    They insistently ask us if we would like to speak with the visiting Lama that is here from Tibet for a month. We're kind of thinking, not really, but it feels rude to say no.
    So... We meet and shake hands with a real life Lama ( Buddhist priest). He's 87 years old, speaks a bit of English but he's old and tired and so let's Mr Irish tell his story. He's had an amazing life, found in Tibet at the age of 2 to become a Lama. Goes to be tutored with the Dali Lama and among others, a Mongolian priest. That sets the story for why this Lama set up this program. Read the other page for more.

    When China invaded/ took over Tibet he was imprisoned but made an escape, has quite a few degrees, set up and encouraged numerous charities but felt really compelled to set this program up. Also, the Dali Lama asked him to 😊

    Then we go make some felt with a lovely Mongolian lady, with interpretation from Odnoo. It's a great process and fun time. They are impressed with our crafting skills, thinking we've made felt before.

    Then we head off to the Ger District, or shanty town, to see a community project that Eternal Landscapes also support. I'll do a page on that one too.

    On that visit, we also see a yurt that is a Japanese conflict museum set up by one man. He comes to see us. This yurt is handed down to him from his grand parents. Yurts, as well as livestock are inherited down, says Odnoo.
    The museum is really basic but he has plans to build a very flash one.

    Then to lunch in a restaurant that Odnoo recommends, do another shop in the State Department Store, pop into an English bookshop, have a quick look in another fancy department store close to our hotel.

    No- one slept very well last night so we're all desperate for a snooze.

    Relaxed Arvo, tea and bed.
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  • MIM project Asral NGO Mongolia

    28. elokuuta, Mongolia ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    One in every three Mongolians is struggling to survive in Ulaanbaatar, one of the coldest and most polluted capitals in the world. Most of them are children. Asral is an award-winning NGO established by Tibetan Lama Panchen Ötrul Rinpoche in 2001 with the support of His Holiness the Dalai Lama, to combat poverty. It is run by Mongolian women, primarily supporting single mothers and their children. "ASRAL" is the Mongolian word for "care".

    560 women trained and working independently
    612 families trained in food-growing skills
    96 children supported each year with access to education

    We develop projects that offer skills to women to create employment opportunities and encourage social entrepreneurship. Our MIM (Made-in-Mongolia) initiative grew from tiny beginnings as a training project in 2004, to a business selling handcrafted felt slippers, blending a thousand-year-old Mongolian tradition with contemporary design and function. Fashioned from natural wool sourced in the magnificent central Mongolian steppe region and shaped in the heart of the Gobi Desert, our craftswomen take pride in every aspect of the slipper’s evolution, producing some of the highest quality felt products in Mongolia.

    We have a strong narrative, we are ethically driven and we work with Fair Trade principles. Almost all of our materials are natural and locally sourced. Each item is hand-made.

    Our work has been supported by the Dalai Lama Foundation and the Irish, Dutch, German and Canadian governments among others. Take a moment to visit Asral’s website and you will witness what we achieve with minimal resources, passion and great commitment.
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  • Uuliin Nuur Community Project

    28. elokuuta, Mongolia ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    In a city where few safe and accessible community spaces exist—especially for children—Uuliin Nuur is a rare and inspiring exception.

    Ulaanbataa lies in the valley of the Tuul River. Once a nomadic settlement, it became fixed in its current location in 1778. From 1924 until the early 1990s, Mongolia was governed under Soviet-style socialism, which shaped the city’s early urban planning. This created a centralized downtown core—planned for 600,000 people—that still stands today.
    However, Ulaanbaatar is now home to around 1.5 million residents—almost triple its intended capacity. Nearly 60% of the population live in ger districts, semi-formal and unplanned neighborhoods that ring the city. These areas, composed of both traditional gers and self-built houses, are disconnected from central infrastructure: no plumbing, running water, or central heating.

    Challenges in the Ger Districts
    The rapid expansion of Ulaanbaatar’s ger districts has been largely driven by rural-to-urban migration, especially in recent decades. As the climate crisis intensifies, Mongolia’s herding families have faced increasing hardship due to cyclical extreme weather events known as dzud—severe winters that follow summer droughts and devastate livestock herds. Many of these families have moved to the capital not necessarily in search of a better life, but simply in search of any form of opportunity or stability.

    However, transitioning from a traditional nomadic lifestyle to urban living is far from easy. The lack of essential infrastructure and public services—including heating, water, sanitation, and safe community spaces—makes daily life in the ger districts particularly challenging.

    Creating Change: The Uuliin Nuur Community Project

    The Uuliin Nuur Community Project, founded by Ulziitogtokh Sodnomsenge (Ulzii), is helping transform a corner of Ulaanbaatar’s ger districts into a more hopeful and livable space. In 2009, Ulzii received official permission to rehabilitate a long-abandoned quarry in the Denjin Myanga ger district. Once used for city construction under the socialist regime and later abandoned as a dumping ground, the site was neglected and forgotten.

    But Ulzii had a vision—and he invested his personal savings to make it happen.

    “The kids in this area often have a very hard life. I want to give them somewhere to play.” — Ulzii

    By 2014, Uuliin Nuur (which means Mountain Lake) had officially opened, offering a safe, affordable, and welcoming space for local families in one of Ulaanbaatar’s most underserved areas.

    Uuliin Nuur is more than a quiet space—it’s a space for education, creativity, and connection. Ulzii, runs free English and music classes for local children when he can and is continuously improving the site, which has become home to ducks, doves, and even a rabbit. Over time, he has planted more than 500 trees, creating a rare oasis of quiet in a city struggling with air pollution and overcrowding.

    What’s especially noticeable? There’s no rubbish. Children and families who visit are encouraged to take ownership of the space and keep it clean—a reflection of the respect Ulzii inspires in his community

    A Local Side of Ulaanbaatar
    Many international visitors rush through Ulaanbaatar—perhaps stopping at the National Museum or a cultural show—on their way to Mongolia’s more remote regions. But Ulaanbaatar is so much more than its downtown core. Visiting Uuliin Nuur allows guests to experience a more local, grounded, and community-led side of Mongolia’s capital.
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  • Move hotel to start the new tour

    28. elokuuta, Mongolia ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Picked up by Nomad Planet driver- same van and driver that picked me up from the airport. At 11.30 am.

    Straight to Alpha Hotel we meet our tour guide, Suncheir ( not spelling, but pronunciation).
    Then to lunch with the 4 other participants to get to know each other. They are 2 French (Fred and Sabine), 1 Swiss (Melanie), 1 USA (Annie).

    Then to main square, museum, 🏧, temple, concert and dinner. Jam packed afternoon.
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  • First riding day

    1. syyskuuta, Mongolia ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Horses have arrived overnight.

    We're given a horse based on our guide's guestimation of our ability and personality???

    We get on our horses and ride, no practice or prep talk.
    We ride to a hot mineral spa with a cold pool. Sounds flash, but it's a locals spot. A few tiny ramshackle huts that you can wriggle in to find the warm healing waters. The cold pool is a tiny damned off bit of running creek.
    But it does the job, and it's quite a privilege to be brought up the mountains to this sacred spot.
    Back home to the same yurt family.

    A good quick soak in the cold creek, back at camp.

    My horse- Kevin ( my name, they don't name their horses) , throwing his head around all day, can't steer him. Stirrups too short so nearly get thrown when we go into a canter or gallop. Wooden but under saddle starting to come and through the saddle. Ouch!!
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  • To Khuisin Naiman Nuur

    2. syyskuuta, Mongolia ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Today, we trek with pack horses and a small back pack with our clothes in for 3 days.
    The next 3 days we explore the 8 lakes district. Sitting at 2,200 metres, ancient volcanic craters contain clear blue alpine lakes surrounded by tall forested mountains. The area's thousands of plant species, include medicinal varieties.

    Also, we fit Kevin with longer stirrups, a sheepskin saddle cover I brought with me and hope we both feel better.
    Turns out, it makes a world of difference for both of us. I'm more comfortable and Kev doesn't shake his head as much. He's now "Kev" because I like him better now 😊

    Today, Dianne has a tummy upset and projectile vomits off the top of her horse. One of American Annie's all time awesome moments apparently 🤣. She's never seen that before!!

    After lunch, which she can't eat, she walks slowly on her horse at the back with Mocha and the pack horse.
    I stay behind for the last part of the trek. I'm not wanting to do the galloping and want to stay with Di. Kev is not a fan so I have to keep him in check.

    Stay in another family guest ger at the base of some hills and a small creek. They farm or herd 🦬 yaks and sheep that shed their wool. They milk the yaks
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  • Lakes and a swim

    3. syyskuuta, Mongolia ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Jacqui is not feeling too good today. She makes it ok to our lunch time camp then she and Dianne take the afternoon off to sleep and recuperate.

    In the arvo the rest of us ride to a large lake where Sabine and I have a swim. The others just watch 😶.

    It's a pretty ride past lots of lakes. The leaves are starting to turn autumn colours
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  • Down from the 8 lakes district

    4. syyskuuta, Mongolia ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    Today we come down from the 8 lakes district.
    Through lava fields that have turned autumn colours. Up and over a mountain.
    Tough day for the horses.
    Stay at a tourist camp tonight. So we can have a shower!!! But they need to put on a generator to heat the water. Due to the fuel crisis we have to all follow each other through the shower to supposedly save fuel.

    Overcast but not rainy.
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  • Galloping in the rain.

    5. syyskuuta, Mongolia ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Start with overcast. We all take wet weather gear.
    By the time we get to the waterfall it starts to rain, so we get our raincoats on, we don't bother with over trousers, just get wet.
    At the waterfall a local young girl, probably about 10 or 12 starts to talk to us in English. Now they learn it in school, I guess she likes to practice on us. Her little brothers were having a go too. She translated for her adults 😊.

    Because it's wet we don't do a meandering route, we basically trot and canter all the way in a straight line to camp.

    Tonight we camp at our horse guide, Mocha's place. He's looking forward to catching up with his young family. He has a daughter, son and a baby boy only a month old. We had lunch at their place on the way in, a week ago.

    The fires get stoked up in the Ger and we make a "Mongolian laundry" to dry us and all our wet gear.
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  • Ride and then hike!!

    6. syyskuuta, Mongolia ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    In the morning we ride to the next camp. The morning has dawned sunny and everything has dried overnight. We ride over hills.

    We have lunch at camp, then get driven in the back of a truck up to a carpark. We do an hour's hike to a temple up in the hills.
    Then hike back!!
    Big day.

    Tonight we have a traditional Mongolian " barbeque". They cook the meat and veg in a large pot that is heated with hot stones.
    There are other groups here tonight passing through. They are mostly French, and are driving in 4WD with guides. We don't mix.
    Apparently " the boss" of our guides are here, but that's not obvious to us.
    They also cook up offal which the locals eat. Some of our group sample a bit too, but not me.
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  • Spa day

    7. syyskuuta, Mongolia ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    Wake up to a bit of frost.
    Last day of riding today. We ride and gallop over hills to a tourist camp for lunch and a "proper" spa and pools. Some heated at different temperatures then cool off in the swimming pool.
    Trouble is, after getting clean and relaxed we have to ride back!!
    Kev is happy with just fast trot or canter, he really doesn't want to gallop which is fine with me.
    We get home about 5-ish, and the horse guides want to take the horses home to Mocha's tonight so we say a quick and sad farewell to them and our lovely horses. Very sad 😭
    Back at same camp as last night
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  • Dunes

    8. syyskuuta, Mongolia ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Back towards Ulaanbataa.
    Cross country.
    I cry when I leave, I don't want to go.
    By the time we get to the main road I'm fine again. There's snow on the mountain peaks today.
    We visit another very significant temple today, the Erdene Zuu monastery (16th century) in Karkhorin, once the capital of Mongolia, founded by Genghis Khan.

    After lunch, we visit the mini Gobi Desert. It's basically sand dunes that have been touristed into the mini Gobi.

    Then onto our last family Ger camp. They have just moved there for the winter and not totally unpacked yet.
    No fire as there are no flues yet!!
    It's warmer down here anyway and may not need it. Rug up in the sleeping bag.

    We have tea with the family then a birthday cake we bought at a big supermarket today. It's for Frenchman, Fred's 49th birthday and "driver"'s 30th birthdays they had on the trip.
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  • Last day!!!

    9. syyskuuta, Mongolia ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    No!!!!! I wake up with the spews and poos today!!!! I thought I'd got away with it!

    But, I think I had way too much creamy stuff yesterday and it fermented in my gut overnight.
    I got rid of it all in one go but couldn't really eat much through the day.

    We got to Ulaanbataa and went back to the State Department Store for more souvenirs as we didn't get a chance for any of that during the trek.

    I drag myself back to our room and sleep while the others go to a cashmere store. Fred goes to Narantuul Market which is close-ish.

    Then we all head to the farewell dinner. I'm hungry by now and enjoy it, but I can't face the creamy cake for dessert though.
    Dinner is in a castle in the theme park the girls and I walked through when we first got here 10 days ago.

    Early night as we have a very early morning tomorrow to catch a plane.
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  • To Hong Kong

    10. syyskuuta, Hongkong ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Up early at 2.30 am to fly out of UB at 6.20 am to Hong Kong.
    Annie is also catching the same flight back to America so all 4 of us are driven to the airport by a Nomad Planet driver.

    We fly Miat, Mongolian Airlines with no misshaps, only a 4 hour flight, but get to have a good snooze.

    Dianne and Annie are laying over in HK, they have a long wait so they book into an airport hotel that gives them a certain amount of hours in a room. Di doesn't fly out until midnight so she's planning on some sleep time, swim and room service 😀

    When Jac and I get to our hotel, the Eaton, our room is ready.
    We relax for a bit then get some lunch.
    By this time it's about 2-ish.
    We decide to go for a walk and find the Ladies Market, a long street stall.
    It's warm and a bit humid.

    We have a drink and some snacks for tea at a funky bar in the restaurant.
    Then sleep in a bed!!
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  • Hong Kong HOHO bus

    11. syyskuuta, Hongkong ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Breakfast at Starbucks - yoghurt and berries.
    Our stop to get on is a temple so we see the temple first.
    On the bus to the Contemporary Art Museum. Spend 2 hours there.
    Around to the first stop of the blue route where we can get off and go for a quick lunch. Salad and a fruit shake drink.
    Then around to a shopping centre.
    Walk back home. Relax and cool down.

    Out to Temple Street night market for a look and a yummy street tea.
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  • Big HOHO day

    12. syyskuuta, Hongkong ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    We left at 9am and didn't get back until 10 pm. 13 hours.
    12 km walked even if on 2 busses and 2 boats!

    Did green route around Hong Kong island with a stop at Stanley, then Aberdeen to get on a junket type boat. Then back on green route bus to join red route bus that goes around Hong Kong central to the Peak Tram, up a hill for good views.

    Walked back to Pier 7 for Star Ferry back to Kowloon. Then walked around harbour to Avenue of Stars to get tea and the 8.30 pm river taxi for a night cruise.
    Most of these activities were part of the Big Bus ticket.
    Then walked home!!
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  • HK to KL to MLB to FI

    13.–14. syysk., Australia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Flying Air Asia from Hong Kong to Melbourne via Kuala Lumpur.

    3 hours in KL.
    Not much sleep
    Paid Park Royal for 3 hour day room. Lovely bed and 2 hours sleep plus shower.
    Taxi to Essendon airport then fly home to Steve and dogs.
    Kate was on plane from Darwin
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    Matkan lopetus
    14. syyskuuta 2026