• Christine Thalwitz
  • Christine Thalwitz

Spain 2022

Travels on el Camino de Invierno and around southern Spain Read more
  • Trip start
    June 11, 2022
  • Las Médulas

    June 13, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    Las Médulas means “the marrows”. It was a Roman gold mine that operated from around 30 AD until the beginning of the 3rd century. The Romans built a system of channels that drew water from nearby mountains, ultimately creating a blast that washed sediment down the side of the mountain for gold panning. A very dramatic sight to see!Read more

  • Monforte de Lemos

    June 14, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    Today was a wow in Monforte de Lemos! Enjoyed the beautiful parador, which was formerly a Benedictine monastery, and the Tower de Homenaje next door. There was breathtaking artwork at the Colegio de Nuestra Señora de la Antigua, including two gorgeous paintings by El Greco. I was captivated by Dolorosa and her reflection at el Convento de las Clarisas, as well as the many striking reliquaries. So much to appreciate and enjoy!Read more

  • Torre Vilariño

    June 15, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    Perfect Camino weather today—slightly overcast but clear. Storms roll in tonight. We will see what tomorrow brings!

  • Chantada

    June 16, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    Today’s stage of the Camino de Invierno had lots of downhill trail & some seriously steep climbs (or as I like to call them “knee busters” and “lung busters” respectively). But lots of surprises along the way, like the beautiful caracol, the hórreos, the winery where pilgrims get a free glass of the local Ribeira Sacra vino tinto, and cuttlefish for dinner.Read more

  • A Lalín

    June 18, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    After yesterday’s adventure, we fueled up with dinner in a café about 50 feet away from our hotel. (Strategic choice 🤣) The theme was eggs—tortilla española, huevos rellenos & ensaladilla. Then today we set out on a comfortable 21 km route through the countryside from Rodeiro to Lalín. We got to walk with the cows, meet lots of dogs and cats, and watch the local ladies make tapetes in the church at Lalín. Finished up with a little trip to the grocery store for dinner. Tomorrow we go again!Read more

  • Lalín ➡️ Bandeira

    June 19, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 57 °F

    A soggy, sloggy day on the Camino from Lalín to Bandeira—but a day full of wonderful sights! The Ingrexa de Santiago in Taboada was a teaser for Santiago de Compostela with all its symbols and lore. Then, the medieval Puente Taboada we crossed is from 912 AD. We took a side trip to the Mosteiro de Carboeiro, a Benedictine monastery founded in the 10th century, and marveled at its restoration and beauty. When we finally got to Bandeira, it was time to shower, hang clothes out and find a restaurant for dinner. More delicious Galician beef and huevos revueltos con jamón ibérico. Tomorrow is going to be a long stage, so we are ready for a good night’s sleep!Read more

  • Pico Sacro & more!

    June 20, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 55 °F

    One more sleep to Santiago de Compostela! Today was a smooth 24 km from Bandeira to A Susana. We passed the fabled Pico Sacro where, according to the Codex Calixtinus, two of St. James’ disciples went after approaching the evil Queen Lupa to ask for help constructing a tomb for the apostle’s remains. She sent them to the top of Pico Sacro to retrieve oxen that would help them carry out their task. It was a trick! When the disciples reached the top they encountered a dragon, which they handily defeated by making the sign of the cross. Now a believer, Lupa purportedly converted to Christianity and destroyed all pagan idols and temples, building the apostle’s tomb in their place. In 814 AD, a hermit saw lights glimmering in the oak groves and he stumbled upon the burial ground containing the relics of St. James. The bishop of Iria Flavia verified the remains, and it wasn’t long before King Alfonso II of Asturias made the journey from Oviedo to Compostela to pay homage. And hence, the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage was born! Other highlights today included Ponte Ulla, la Capilla de Santiago in Outeiro, some critter friends and statues, plus delicious mussels and traditional caldo gallego. A pretty great day!Read more

  • Santiago de Compostela

    June 21, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Today was a day of celebration! We made it to Santiago shortly before noon, and the rain held off until later in the day. ¡Un milagro! It is always exhilarating to walk into the Praza do Obradoiro and rejoice with all the peregrinos. We had a great send off from our new friend Carmen at the albergue this morning, and then it was only a few hours to Santiago. After soaking in the moment, we toured the cathedral, got our Compostelas, and had a delicious meal. We also visited the Igrexa de San Frutuoso and saw the most beautiful tapete. Tomorrow we will tour more of the cathedral. I am looking forward especially to the tower tour.Read more

  • Last day in Santiago de Compostela!

    June 22, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    The fun today didn’t stop with the cathedral rooftop tour. We toured Santa Maria la Real de Sar, saw the Pórtico de la Gloria up close, visited the Cathedral museum, including the cloisters and reliquaries, and took a walk in Alameda Park. We also had a chance to peruse the Mercado de Abastos. It was a wonderful last day in Santiago. Tomorrow we are on the move to our next destination! Hint: 💃Read more

  • Catedral de Sevilla

    June 23, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 81 °F

    ¡Hola, Sevilla! Gorgeous weather in sunny Andalucía, cooler than normal at about 89 degrees. We toured the magnificent cathedral first. Pictures just don’t do it justice!

  • Real Alcázar de Sevilla

    June 23, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 81 °F

    The Real Alcázar of Sevilla was stunning with its magnificent Mudéjar architecture, exquisite azulejos, and lush gardens. What a treat to see in person this beautiful site I’ve studied over the years.

  • More of Sevilla!

    June 24, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    Another action-packed day! We started with a rooftop tour of the Catedral de Sevilla. Then we walked to the Plaza de España and the Parque de María Luisa, followed by a stroll along the Guadalquivir, a visit to Triana and its ceramic shops, and a walk past the Plaza de Toros. There is a lot going on in Sevilla!Read more

  • Córdoba

    June 25, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    Hopped the train to Córdoba today! The Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba took my breath away. The layering of Visigothic, Muslim and Christian constructions creates such powerful beauty. We also had a chance to see the medieval synagogue of Córdoba, which is one of the three best preserved in all of Spain. We explored the Jewish quarter and its artisan workshops, and went to see some of the patios cordobeses. More delicious Andalucía cuisine today, too. So much to see! We start early again tomorrow! ⏰🛏🌞Read more

  • More of Córdoba!

    June 26, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    On the road again! But first, we had another great day in Córdoba. We toured the Mezquita-Cathedral bell tower, the Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianios and its gardens, the Baths of the Caliphate, several museums, and the Palacio de Viana. Had time for a great meal at Casa Rubio and then off to the train station. On to Granada!Read more

  • La Alhambra & Granada

    June 27, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    A full day in Granada! The Alhambra was the star of the day. There was so much for the senses to take in. We’ve had a great introduction to the city exploring some of the neighborhoods. There are countless churches that were built over mosques. If you look you can see the combined elements in the Mudejar architecture. We’ve had some great meals, too!Read more

  • Granada - Around town!

    June 28, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    Today was our last full day in Granada. 😢 So we had to make the most of it! We started with a visit to the Cathedral and then walked up (and up and up) to the Mirador San Nicolás. Had a quick tostada with jamón, queso y tomate at the café at the top and then went and bought nun cookies at the torno at the convent. We walked along the River Darro and relaxed at the Hammam Al Andalús baths. To cap off a perfect day, we had a cocktail on the hotel terrace and a delicious Moroccan dinner. Such a wonderful day to remember!Read more

  • To Madrid

    June 29, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 88 °F

    We had one last café breakfast and museum visit in Granada before we took the train back to Madrid. There was just enough time to take a stroll in the city center, visit the Mercado de San Miguel for tapas, and have dinner in the Plaza Mayor. What a nice way to wrap up Spain. Already looking forward to next time!Read more